JP2006002326A - 無縫製衣服とその製造方法、及びその製造方法で使用する加圧ローラー - Google Patents
無縫製衣服とその製造方法、及びその製造方法で使用する加圧ローラー Download PDFInfo
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- JP2006002326A JP2006002326A JP2005136819A JP2005136819A JP2006002326A JP 2006002326 A JP2006002326 A JP 2006002326A JP 2005136819 A JP2005136819 A JP 2005136819A JP 2005136819 A JP2005136819 A JP 2005136819A JP 2006002326 A JP2006002326 A JP 2006002326A
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- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- garment
- adhesive tape
- sewn
- joining
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
- B29C66/40—General aspects of joining substantially flat articles, e.g. plates, sheets or web-like materials; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles; Joining single elements to substantially flat surfaces
- B29C66/47—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces
- B29C66/472—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces said single elements being substantially flat
- B29C66/4724—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces said single elements being substantially flat said single elements being appliques, e.g. in the form of a text or drawing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
- A41D27/245—Hems; Seams made by welding or gluing
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/02—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure
- B29C65/08—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations
- B29C65/083—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations using a rotary sonotrode or a rotary anvil
- B29C65/087—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations using a rotary sonotrode or a rotary anvil using both a rotary sonotrode and a rotary anvil
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
- B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
- B29C65/481—Non-reactive adhesives, e.g. physically hardening adhesives
- B29C65/4815—Hot melt adhesives, e.g. thermoplastic adhesives
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- B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
- B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
- B29C65/5042—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like covering both elements to be joined
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- B29C65/743—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc
- B29C65/7441—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc for making welds and cuts of other than simple rectilinear form
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/74—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area
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- B29C65/74—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area
- B29C65/747—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using other than mechanical means
- B29C65/7473—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using other than mechanical means using radiation, e.g. laser, for simultaneously welding and severing
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- B29K2313/00—Use of textile products or fabrics as reinforcement
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Abstract
スポーツウェア等に適する化繊の編地や天然繊維では不可能であった、柔軟性を備え、平滑な接合面で接合でき、製造工程において生地端部相互を予め揃える必要もなく、針糸を用いる必要のない無縫製衣服及びその製法等の提供。
【解決手段】
熱可塑性繊維の編地又は伸縮性生地からなる衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互の接合が、二枚の衣服構成生地の表面を対向して重ね、レーザー又は超音波で溶断ライン上を溶断し、余剰片を除いて、接合縁部相互の溶断面が溶着して仮止め状態を形成し、二枚の衣服構成生地を開き、接合端面相互が表面側に溝状の開口部を形成した状態で、接合縁部に対し裏面又は表面側から補強用熱接着テープを当接し、接合端面相互が対向又は当接する状態で補強用熱接着テープと加熱溶着手段で接合する無縫製衣服の製造方法。
【選択図】 図40
Description
当該無縫製の無塵衣は、構成部分である生地相互の溶着を利用するものであることから、生地相互が溶着に適した化学繊維からなるものであり、無塵衣としての用途であれば、化学繊維の場合、伸縮性を具備しないナイロン製生地、布帛等を使用すれば可能である。
そして、通気穴柄内にメッシュ生地が露呈する外観を呈することによって、通気性を確保した上で、多様な意匠性を付加し、商品価値を高めることができる。
また、レーザー加工によるデザインの多様性と位置決めによる高精度な製品の供給とを併せて得ることができる。
ここで、本実施例では、図3に示すように、補強用熱接着テープEは、極薄のポリウレタンフィルムからなるホットメルト接着フィルムを用いている。
本発明の実施例1に係る無縫製衣服の製造方法は、衣服構成生地の接合方法として衣服構成生地の接合端面同士を対向して接合する接合方法(以下、タイプ1の接合方法という。)と、衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互を重合して接合する接合方法(以下、タイプ2の接合方法という。)の、二通りの方法を用いている。
以下、タイプ1の接合方法について説明する。先ず、図5(a)中に示すように、二枚の衣服構成生地A、Bの表面相互を対向して重ねて、図5(b)に示したレーザー照射線Gで溶断ライン上を溶断する。
尚、接合縁部のうち、溶断部分から離れた部分は、溶断時の熱の影響を殆ど受けず、前記二枚の衣服構成生地A、Bとは溶着しない。また、この溶断によって生じた余剰片Dは本実施例に係る製造工程において使用しないが、別途再生利用の対象とすることができる。
次に、本実施例1におけるタイプ2の接合方法について説明する。タイプ2の接合方法は、衣服構成生地A、Bの接合縁部相互を熱接着テープを介して重合して接合するもので、重合せ上側となる衣服構成生地である上側生地Pと、重合せ下側に位置する衣服構成生地である下側生地Qとを別々に端部処理し、処理後に上側生地Pと下側生地Qを接合する。
このように下側生地の接合端面と熱接着テープの内側となる縁部とを一致させることによって、下側生地の接合端面が接合後に捲れあがらないようにすることができる。
また、本実施例1における襟部の端縁部は、図10及び図11に示すように、衣服構成生地Aである表側襟生地と衣服構成生地Bである裏側襟生地とを、熱接着テープJを介在して、重ねた後(図10(a))、襟部外形を形成するように、前記二枚の衣服構成生地A、B及び熱接着テープJをまとめて溶断する(図10(b))。この状態で、二枚の衣服構成生地相互は、熱接着テープJにおける溶断形成された接合縁部の溶融固化により仮止めされる(図10(c))。
本実施例2に係る無縫製衣服の前身ごろは、右前中央部生地10a、左前中央生地10bとその左右外側に位置する右前生地12a及び左前生地12b、更に該右前生地12a及び左前生地12bの左右となる腰部位置に後身ごろを形成する後中央生地16の一部が接合されており、左右の袖部分は右袖部生地11a及び左袖部生地11bを設けるとともに、袖の下部から脇を覆う位置には右脇部生地14a及び左脇部生地14bを設けた構成である。
前記ボタン打合せ部17は、折返し重合した襟部生地15で形成し、該襟部生地15に対してボタン穴170を列設している。また、図15及び図16に示すように、ボタン穴170の周縁には、針や糸を用いて形成される糸かがりを有せず、ボタン穴170はカット縁部172とカットライン174のみで形成される。尚、図15はボタン穴の通常状態、図16はボタン穴をカットライン174からやや開いた状態である。
本実施例2におけるメッシュ生地の取り付けは、先ず、使用するメッシュ生地M、フィルム状の熱接着シートSを夫々、使用する大きさ、形状に合わせてカットして形成する。これらはいずれも後に形成する通気孔柄よりも大きく形成する。尚、本実施例2においてはカットにはCO2ガスレーザーを用いている。
通気穴柄180の形成に伴い、熱接着シートS及び衣服構成生地Aにおける通気穴柄形成部分は除去される。尚、通気穴柄180の形状は機能やデザインに応じて任意に形成できる。
以上の手法により、メッシュ生地Mを当該無縫製衣服の背中に設けた場合には、背中から後襟部へ繋がる通気路が形成され、外気が背中及び襟部間の通気路を通ることによって、運動中に背中から首周り近傍に至る部分を外気で冷却し、発汗による蒸れを防止する効果を得ることができる。
また、本発明においては、以上実施例2に示した通気穴柄180とメッシュ生地Mを用いた通気部の形成方法に代えて、以下の実施例3で示す通気部の形成方法とすることもできる。尚、本実施例3に係る無縫製衣服自体の構成を図35及び図36に示す。
本実施例3の無縫製衣服の製造方法によって得られる無縫製衣服の基本構成は、実施例2と同一であり、通気部の形成のみについて相違するものである。尚、本実施例3では熱接着シートはホットメルト接着材S20に剥離紙S21を積層してなるものである。
通気穴窓181の形成は、CO2ガスレーザーによる溶断によって行う。当該溶断によって、溶断面でホットメルト接着材S20と衣服構成生地Aはより確実に仮止めされることとなる。
エンボスプレスによる熱圧着は、素材に適応した条件を適宜設定することができるが、本実施例3においては、温度125℃乃至135℃程度、圧力1.5kg/cm2乃至2.0kg/cm2程度、プレス時間15秒程度とすることで、良好な通気部を形成することができる。
更に、本発明においては、以下の実施例4で示すメッシュ生地の取付け方法によって行うこともできる。
10b 左前中央生地
11a 右袖部生地
11b 左袖部生地
12a 右前生地
12b 左前生地
13a 右腰部生地
13b 左腰部生地
14a 右脇部生地
14b 左脇部生地
15 襟部生地
16 後中央生地
17 ボタン打合せ部
170 ボタン穴
171 外周エンボス部
172 カット縁部
173 保持部
174 カットライン
180 通気穴柄
181 通気穴窓
19 裾部
A 衣服構成生地
A1 接合縁部
A2 接合端面
B 衣服構成生地
B1 接合縁部
B2 接合端面
C 仮止め用熱接着テープ
D 余剰片
E 補強用熱接着テープ
F 接合ライン
G レーザー照射線
H ホーン
J 熱接着テープ
K 開口部
L 回転軸
M メッシュ生地
M2 メッシュ生地片
N 仮止め部
R 加圧ローラー
R1 溶断刃
R2 溶着用加圧部
R3 ボタン穴形成部
R30 溶断刃
R31 エンボス形成部
P 上側生地
PE 切除代
Q 下側生地
QE 切除代
S 熱接着シート
S20 ホットメルト接着材
S21 剥離紙
SF スライドファスナー
T1 タイプ1の接合
T2 タイプ2の接合
V 印
α 刃先角
Claims (13)
- 複数の熱可塑性繊維からなる衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互を接合する無縫製衣服の製造方法において、
衣服構成生地は、編地若しくは伸縮性生地であるものを用い、
衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互の接合が、
二枚の衣服構成生地の表面相互を対向して重ねて、レーザー又は超音波で溶断ライン上を溶断し、溶断により生じた余剰片を除いた状態とし、
二枚の衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互の溶断面が溶着して仮止め状態を形成し、
前記二枚の衣服構成生地を接合縁部の境界を中心として開いて、溶断によって形成された接合端面相互が表面側に溝状の開口部を形成した状態として、
接合縁部に対して裏面側又は表面側から補強用熱接着テープを当接し、前記接合端面相互が対向若しくは当接する状態で接合縁部と補強用熱接着テープとを加熱溶着手段により接合することを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 接合縁部に対する補強用熱接着テープの加熱溶着手段は、シームプレス、熱圧着プレス、アイロンによる加熱、ローラー及びホーンによる部分的な超音波溶着のいずれかとしたことを特徴とする請求項1記載の無縫製衣服の製造方法。
- 複数の衣服構成生地からなる衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互を重合して接合する無縫製衣服の製造方法において、
重合せ上側に位置する上側生地の縁部下面に熱接着テープを配置して、ホーンH及び加圧ローラーRを備えた超音波溶着機で、上側生地と熱接着テープとを、同時に溶断及び溶着して切除代を除去するとともに熱接着テープを溶融固化して接合縁部を形成する工程と、
レーザー若しくは超音波で、重合せ下側に位置する下側生地の縁部近傍を溶断して接合縁部を形成する工程と、
前記上側生地の接合縁部と下側生地の接合縁部相互を、前記熱接着テープを介して、加熱溶着手断で接合することを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 無縫製衣服の製造方法において、二枚の衣服構成生地を重合せ一体として形成する端縁部は、二枚の衣服構成生地間に熱接着テープを介在して重ねた後、外形を形成するように、前記二枚の衣服構成生地及び熱接着テープを溶断し、溶断により生じた余剰片を除いた状態で、二枚の衣服構成生地及び熱接着テープにおける溶断形成された縁部の溶融固化により仮止めし、仮止め後、シームプレス、熱圧着プレス、又はアイロンによる加熱のいずれかの加熱溶着手段により前記熱接着テープを溶融固化して二枚の衣服構成生地相互を重合溶着状態として形成することを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。
- 通気部を備えた無縫製衣服の製造方法であって、通気部の形成は、衣服構成生地上に熱接着テープを重合し、熱接着テープの縁部を残して前記衣服構成生地及び熱接着生地を、該熱接着生地側からレーザーで溶断して通気穴柄を形成し、
該通気穴柄より大きいメッシュ生地に対して、通気穴柄及び該通気穴柄の周縁に残存する熱接着テープを、メッシュ生地と熱溶着部材とが当接する状態で重ね、熱圧着プレス手段により熱溶着部材を溶融してメッシュ生地と衣服構成生地とを取着する方法を有する請求項1、2、3又は4記載の無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 複数の熱可塑性繊維からなる衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互を接合してなる無縫製衣服において、
衣服構成生地は、編地若しくは伸縮性生地とし、
二枚の衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互が仮止め部で連結されるとともに、前記二枚の衣服構成生地の接合端面相互が対向し、二枚の衣服構成生地の裏面に亘って補強用熱接着テープが溶融固化した接合構成を有することを特徴とする無縫製衣服。 - 一枚の熱可塑性繊維からなる衣服構成繊維の接合縁部相互を接合してなる無縫製衣服において、
衣服構成生地は、編地若しくは伸縮性生地とし、
一枚の衣服構成生地の両端部となる接合縁部相互が仮止め部で連結されるとともに、前記衣服構成生地の接合端面相互が対向し、両端の接合縁部の裏面に亘って補強用熱接着テープが溶融固化した接合構成を有することを特徴とする無縫製衣服。 - ボタン係止用のボタン穴を有する無縫製衣服の製造方法において、
ボタン穴は、衣服構成生地に対して、超音波溶着機を用いて、ホーン及び加圧ローラーで挟圧し、加圧ローラーに形成したボタン穴形成部によって溶断若しくは溶融固化して形成することを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 超音波伝達手段であるホーンとともに生地を挟み込んで超音波による溶融固化手段若しくは溶断手段となる加圧ローラーにおいて、
該加圧ローラーは、溶断によりボタン穴を形成するためのボタン穴形成用突起を備えたことを特徴とする加圧ローラー。 - 衣服構成生地の通気穴窓にメッシュ生地が露呈する通気部を備えた無縫製衣服の製造方法であって、
メッシュ生地と、ホットメルト接着材の片面に剥離紙を積層した熱接着シートとを用い、
メッシュ生地に対するレーザーによる溶断で、通気穴窓より大きく且つ通気穴窓と略相似形輪郭となるメッシュ生地片を形成し、
熱接着シートは、レーザーによる溶断で、剥離紙とともに前記メッシュ生地片より大きく、且つメッシュ生地片と略相似形輪郭とし、
衣服構成生地の裏面側に熱接着シートを位置決めし、
次いで衣服構成生地と熱接着シートとの重合部分に対して、熱接着シートの縁が残存する大きさの通気穴窓をレーザーによる溶断で形成し、
熱接着シートの剥離紙を除去し、通気穴窓及びホットメルト接着材上にメッシュ生地片を重ねて位置決めし、
衣服構成生地、ホットメルト接着材及びメッシュ生地片に対して、エンボスプレスによる熱圧着を行うことで通気部を形成することを特徴とする請求項1、2、3、4又は8記載の無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 衣服構成生地の通気穴窓にメッシュ生地が露呈する通気部を備えた無縫製衣服の製造方法であって、熱接着テープ片と、メッシュ生地片とを用い、
衣服構成生地は、通気穴窓をレーザー又は超音波で溶断して形成し、
熱接着テープ片は、シート状の熱接着テープをレーザー又は超音波で溶断して、前記通気穴窓より大きく且つ通気穴窓と相似形輪郭を形成する輪状とし、
メッシュ生地片は、シート状のメッシュ生地をレーザー又は超音波で溶断し、前記熱接着テープにおける前記輪状の外側輪郭線と同一輪郭若しくは前記輪状の外側輪郭線より大きい相似形輪郭とし、
衣服構成生地の裏面側から、通気穴窓の周縁部に前記熱接着テープ片を重合し、該熱接着テープ片上から更に前記メッシュ生地片を重合し、
熱圧着プレス手段により熱接着テープ片を溶融してメッシュ生地と衣服構成生地とを取着する方法を有する請求項1、2、3、4又は8記載の無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 衣服構成生地の通気穴柄若しくは通気穴窓からメッシュ生地が露呈する通気部を備えてなる無縫製衣服において、
衣服構成生地に形成した通気穴柄若しくは通気穴窓における裏面側の縁部と、前記通気穴柄若しくは通気穴窓よりも大きい生地とを、熱溶着部材で溶融取着した構成を備えることを特徴とする請求項6又は7記載の無縫製衣服。 - 通気部は、無縫製衣服の背中及び両脇に形成したことを特徴とする請求項6、7又は12記載の無縫製衣服。
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JP2008069470A (ja) * | 2006-09-13 | 2008-03-27 | Morito Co Ltd | 無縫製衣服及び無縫製衣服の製造方法 |
JP2008101304A (ja) * | 2006-10-20 | 2008-05-01 | Morito Co Ltd | 無縫製衣服 |
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