JP4677278B2 - 無縫製衣服の製造方法 - Google Patents
無縫製衣服の製造方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP4677278B2 JP4677278B2 JP2005136819A JP2005136819A JP4677278B2 JP 4677278 B2 JP4677278 B2 JP 4677278B2 JP 2005136819 A JP2005136819 A JP 2005136819A JP 2005136819 A JP2005136819 A JP 2005136819A JP 4677278 B2 JP4677278 B2 JP 4677278B2
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- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- garment
- joining
- adhesive tape
- sewn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
- B29C66/40—General aspects of joining substantially flat articles, e.g. plates, sheets or web-like materials; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles; Joining single elements to substantially flat surfaces
- B29C66/47—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces
- B29C66/472—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces said single elements being substantially flat
- B29C66/4724—Joining single elements to sheets, plates or other substantially flat surfaces said single elements being substantially flat said single elements being appliques, e.g. in the form of a text or drawing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
- A41D27/245—Hems; Seams made by welding or gluing
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/02—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure
- B29C65/08—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations
- B29C65/083—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations using a rotary sonotrode or a rotary anvil
- B29C65/087—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using ultrasonic vibrations using a rotary sonotrode or a rotary anvil using both a rotary sonotrode and a rotary anvil
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
- B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
- B29C65/481—Non-reactive adhesives, e.g. physically hardening adhesives
- B29C65/4815—Hot melt adhesives, e.g. thermoplastic adhesives
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- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
- B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
- B29C65/5042—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like covering both elements to be joined
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C65/74—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area
- B29C65/743—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc
- B29C65/7435—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc the tool being a roller
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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- B29C65/743—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc
- B29C65/7441—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc for making welds and cuts of other than simple rectilinear form
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/74—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area
- B29C65/743—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc
- B29C65/7443—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using the same tool for both joining and severing, said tool being monobloc or formed by several parts mounted together and forming a monobloc by means of ultrasonic vibrations
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- B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
- B29C65/74—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area
- B29C65/747—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using other than mechanical means
- B29C65/7473—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by welding and severing, or by joining and severing, the severing being performed in the area to be joined, next to the area to be joined, in the joint area or next to the joint area using other than mechanical means using radiation, e.g. laser, for simultaneously welding and severing
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
- B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
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- B29C66/0324—Reforming or reshaping the joint, e.g. folding over
- B29C66/03241—Flattening
- B29C66/03242—Flattening of sheets being positioned in abutment, e.g. after folding open of an overlap joint
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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- B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
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- B29C66/0384—Covering the joint by a coating material the coating material being in tape, strip or band form
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Description
当該無縫製の無塵衣は、構成部分である生地相互の溶着を利用するものであることから、生地相互が溶着に適した化学繊維からなるものであり、無塵衣としての用途であれば、化学繊維の場合、伸縮性を具備しないナイロン製生地、布帛等を使用すれば可能である。
ここで、本実施例では、図3に示すように、補強用熱接着テープEは、極薄のポリウレタンフィルムからなるホットメルト接着フィルムを用いている。
本発明の実施例1に係る無縫製衣服の製造方法は、衣服構成生地の接合方法として衣服構成生地の接合端面同士を対向して接合する接合方法(以下、タイプ1の接合方法という。)と、衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互を重合して接合する接合方法(以下、タイプ2の接合方法という。)の、二通りの方法を用いている。
以下、タイプ1の接合方法について説明する。先ず、図5(a)中に示すように、二枚の衣服構成生地A、Bの表面相互を対向して重ねて、図5(b)に示したレーザー照射線Gで溶断ライン上を溶断する。
尚、接合縁部のうち、溶断部分から離れた部分は、溶断時の熱の影響を殆ど受けず、前記二枚の衣服構成生地A、Bとは溶着しない。また、この溶断によって生じた余剰片Dは本実施例に係る製造工程において使用しないが、別途再生利用の対象とすることができる。
次に、本実施例1におけるタイプ2の接合方法について説明する。タイプ2の接合方法は、衣服構成生地A、Bの接合縁部相互を熱接着テープを介して重合して接合するもので、重合せ上側となる衣服構成生地である上側生地Pと、重合せ下側に位置する衣服構成生地である下側生地Qとを別々に端部処理し、処理後に上側生地Pと下側生地Qを接合する。
このように下側生地の接合端面と熱接着テープの内側となる縁部とを一致させることによって、下側生地の接合端面が接合後に捲れあがらないようにすることができる。
また、本実施例1における襟部の端縁部は、図10及び図11に示すように、衣服構成生地Aである表側襟生地と衣服構成生地Bである裏側襟生地とを、熱接着テープJを介在して、重ねた後(図10(a))、襟部外形を形成するように、前記二枚の衣服構成生地A、B及び熱接着テープJをまとめて溶断する(図10(b))。この状態で、二枚の衣服構成生地相互は、熱接着テープJにおける溶断形成された接合縁部の溶融固化により仮止めされる(図10(c))。
本実施例2に係る無縫製衣服の前身ごろは、右前中央部生地10a、左前中央生地10bとその左右外側に位置する右前生地12a及び左前生地12b、更に該右前生地12a及び左前生地12bの左右となる腰部位置に後身ごろを形成する後中央生地16の一部が接合されており、左右の袖部分は右袖部生地11a及び左袖部生地11bを設けるとともに、袖の下部から脇を覆う位置には右脇部生地14a及び左脇部生地14bを設けた構成である。
前記ボタン打合せ部17は、折返し重合した襟部生地15で形成し、該襟部生地15に対してボタン穴170を列設している。また、図15及び図16に示すように、ボタン穴170の周縁には、針や糸を用いて形成される糸かがりを有せず、ボタン穴170はカット縁部172とカットライン174のみで形成される。尚、図15はボタン穴の通常状態、図16はボタン穴をカットライン174からやや開いた状態である。
本実施例2におけるメッシュ生地の取り付けは、先ず、使用するメッシュ生地M、フィルム状の熱接着シートSを夫々、使用する大きさ、形状に合わせてカットして形成する。これらはいずれも後に形成する通気孔柄よりも大きく形成する。尚、本実施例2においてはカットにはCO2ガスレーザーを用いている。
通気穴柄180の形成に伴い、熱接着シートS及び衣服構成生地Aにおける通気穴柄形成部分は除去される。尚、通気穴柄180の形状は機能やデザインに応じて任意に形成できる。
以上の手法により、メッシュ生地Mを当該無縫製衣服の背中に設けた場合には、背中から後襟部へ繋がる通気路が形成され、外気が背中及び襟部間の通気路を通ることによって、運動中に背中から首周り近傍に至る部分を外気で冷却し、発汗による蒸れを防止する効果を得ることができる。
また、本発明においては、以上実施例2に示した通気穴柄180とメッシュ生地Mを用いた通気部の形成方法に代えて、以下の実施例3で示す通気部の形成方法とすることもできる。尚、本実施例3に係る無縫製衣服自体の構成を図35及び図36に示す。
本実施例3の無縫製衣服の製造方法によって得られる無縫製衣服の基本構成は、実施例2と同一であり、通気部の形成のみについて相違するものである。尚、本実施例3では熱接着シートはホットメルト接着材S20に剥離紙S21を積層してなるものである。
通気穴窓181の形成は、CO2ガスレーザーによる溶断によって行う。当該溶断によって、溶断面でホットメルト接着材S20と衣服構成生地Aはより確実に仮止めされることとなる。
エンボスプレスによる熱圧着は、素材に適応した条件を適宜設定することができるが、本実施例3においては、温度125℃乃至135℃程度、圧力1.5kg/cm2乃至2.0kg/cm2程度、プレス時間15秒程度とすることで、良好な通気部を形成することができる。
更に、本発明においては、以下の実施例4で示すメッシュ生地の取付け方法によって行うこともできる。
10b 左前中央生地
11a 右袖部生地
11b 左袖部生地
12a 右前生地
12b 左前生地
13a 右腰部生地
13b 左腰部生地
14a 右脇部生地
14b 左脇部生地
15 襟部生地
16 後中央生地
17 ボタン打合せ部
170 ボタン穴
171 外周エンボス部
172 カット縁部
173 保持部
174 カットライン
180 通気穴柄
181 通気穴窓
19 裾部
A 衣服構成生地
A1 接合縁部
A2 接合端面
B 衣服構成生地
B1 接合縁部
B2 接合端面
C 仮止め用熱接着テープ
D 余剰片
E 補強用熱接着テープ
F 接合ライン
G レーザー照射線
H ホーン
J 熱接着テープ
K 開口部
L 回転軸
M メッシュ生地
M2 メッシュ生地片
N 仮止め部
R 加圧ローラー
R1 溶断刃
R2 溶着用加圧部
R3 ボタン穴形成部
R30 溶断刃
R31 エンボス形成部
P 上側生地
PE 切除代
Q 下側生地
QE 切除代
S 熱接着シート
S20 ホットメルト接着材
S21 剥離紙
SF スライドファスナー
T1 タイプ1の接合
T2 タイプ2の接合
V 印
α 刃先角
Claims (2)
- 複数の衣服構成生地からなる衣服構成生地の接合縁部相互の間に熱接着テープを配置させて重合し、加熱溶着手段で接合する無縫製衣服の製造方法において、
重合せ上側に位置する上側生地の縁部下面に熱接着テープを配置して、
溶断刃と溶着用加圧部を備える加圧ローラーとホーンから構成される超音波溶着機におけるホーンと溶着用加圧部にて上側生地と熱接着テープを押圧しながら溶断するとともに、
上側生地と熱接着テープを溶着して仮止めし、
切除代を除去するとともに熱接着テープを溶融固化して接合縁部を形成する工程と、
レーザー若しくは超音波で、重合せ下側に位置する下側生地の縁部近傍を溶断して接合縁部を形成する工程と、
上側生地と下側生地とを加熱溶着手段で接合する工程と、
を備えることを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。 - 無縫製衣服の製造方法において、
二枚の衣服構成生地を重合せ一体として形成する端縁部は、二枚の衣服構成生地間に熱接着テープを介在して重ねた後、
外形を形成するように、前記二枚の衣服構成生地及び熱接着テープを溶断し、
溶断により生じた余剰片を除いた状態で、二枚の衣服構成生地及び熱接着テープにおける溶断形成された縁部の溶融固化により仮止めし、
仮止め後、シームプレス、熱圧着プレス、又はアイロンによる加熱のいずれかの加熱溶着手段により前記熱接着テープを溶融固化して二枚の衣服構成生地相互を重合溶着状態として形成することを特徴とする無縫製衣服の製造方法。
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