EP3235947B1 - Stoff mit einem design und verfahren zur herstellung davon - Google Patents

Stoff mit einem design und verfahren zur herstellung davon Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3235947B1
EP3235947B1 EP15869534.6A EP15869534A EP3235947B1 EP 3235947 B1 EP3235947 B1 EP 3235947B1 EP 15869534 A EP15869534 A EP 15869534A EP 3235947 B1 EP3235947 B1 EP 3235947B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
uneven
fabric
fineness
polyurethane resin
surface design
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EP15869534.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3235947A1 (de
EP3235947A4 (de
Inventor
Takuro IZUMI
Kazunori Kawamura
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Seiren Co Ltd
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Seiren Co Ltd
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Publication of EP3235947A4 publication Critical patent/EP3235947A4/de
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Publication of EP3235947B1 publication Critical patent/EP3235947B1/de
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/08—Decorating textiles by fixation of mechanical effects, e.g. calendering, embossing or Chintz effects, using chemical means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C2700/00—Finishing or decoration of textile materials, except for bleaching, dyeing, printing, mercerising, washing or fulling
    • D06C2700/31—Methods for making patterns on fabrics, e.g. by application of powder dye, moiréing, embossing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a fabric partially having an uneven-surface design and a process for producing the same.
  • embossing As a method for imparting an uneven-surface design to a fabric, embossing is known. Embossing is to form an uneven-surface design by pressing a heated mold (referred to as an embossing mold) having an uneven-surface pattern reverse to a desired uneven-surface design (uneven-surface pattern) against the surface of a fabric, and in the related art, various methods have been proposed (for example, PTLs 1 and 2 below).
  • PTLs 1 and 2 various methods have been proposed (for example, PTLs 1 and 2 below).
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a fabric having a novel design in which an uneven-surface design is partially formed by embossing.
  • the present invention provides a process for producing a fabric bearing a design partially having an uneven-surface design by embossing according to claim 1.
  • the present invention provides a fabric bearing a design according to claim 7.
  • a fabric having a novel design in which an uneven-surface design is partially formed can be produced without complex processes.
  • a polyurethane resin is applied to the surface of the fabric having a low fineness portion and a high fineness portion on the surface, and the resultant is dried and is thereafter subjected to embossing on the surface.
  • the low fineness portion having a low single fiber fineness the voids between fibers are small, the fibers are fixed together by the polyurethane resin, and thus shaping properties are improved. Therefore, an uneven-surface design can be imparted by embossing.
  • the uneven-surface design is not imparted thereto, and the design of the fabric itself can remain. That is, by performing the embossing, the uneven-surface design is imparted to the low fineness portion by the embossing and thereby an uneven-surface design portion can be formed, while the uneven-surface design is not imparted to the high fineness portion by the embossing and thereby a non-uneven-surface design portion is formed. Therefore, the fabric partially having the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing can be produced without complex processes.
  • a fabric having a low fineness portion and a high fineness portion on the surface thereof is used as the fabric as a processing object (that is, a raw fabric or base fabric).
  • a part in which the single fiber fineness of threads exposed to the surface of the fabric is low is referred to as the low fineness portion
  • a part in which the single fiber fineness of threads exposed to the surface of the fabric is high is referred to as the high fineness portion.
  • a single fiber fineness is the fineness of a single fiber or filament included in a thread and is also referred to as a filament fineness.
  • the single fiber fineness of the portions other than the surface portion, such as the rear face of the fabric is not particularly limited, and the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion are concepts used for the surface portion (that is, surface layer portion) of the fabric.
  • “high” and “low” in the high fineness portion and the low fineness portion are intended to express the relationship between relative finenesses of the two fineness portions. That is, this means that the high fineness portion has a higher single fiber fineness than that of the low fineness portion (conversely, the low fineness portion has a lower single fiber fineness than that of the high fineness portion).
  • the low fineness portion is a part constituted by threads having a lower single fiber fineness than that of the high fineness portion in the surface portion of the fabric, and this part becomes the uneven-surface design portion by the embossing.
  • “mainly constituting” means constituting 70% or more (volume ratio) of the threads exposed on the surface of the fabric, and more preferably constituting 80% or more.
  • the low fineness portion includes threads having a single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex or lower, that is, the single fiber fineness of the threads constituting the low fineness portion is 1.5 dtex or lower.
  • the threads mainly exposed to the surface in the low fineness portion have a single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex or lower.
  • the single fiber fineness of the threads constituting the low fineness portion is preferably 1.0 dtex or lower, and more preferably 0.7 dtex or lower.
  • the lower limit of the single fiber fineness is not particularly limited, and is preferably 0.1 dtex or higher.
  • the high fineness portion is a part constituted by threads having a higher single fiber fineness than that of the low fineness portion in the surface portion of the fabric, and this part becomes the non-uneven-surface design portion. It is preferable that the high fineness portion includes threads having a single fiber fineness of higher than 1.5 dtex, that is, the single fiber fineness of the threads constituting the high fineness portion is higher than 1.5 dtex. In other words, it is desirable that the threads mainly exposed to the surface in the high fineness portion have a single fiber fineness of higher than 1.5 dtex.
  • the single fiber fineness of the threads constituting the high fineness portion is preferably 2.3 dtex or higher, and more preferably 2.5 dtex or higher.
  • the upper limit of the single fiber fineness thereof is not particularly limited, when the threads are monofilaments, the upper limit is preferably 2000 dtex or lower, and when the threads are multifilaments, the upper limit is preferably 10 dtex or lower.
  • the difference in single fiber fineness between the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion is preferably 0.4 dtex or higher, more preferably 0.5 dtex or higher, further preferably 1.0 dtex or higher, and even more preferably 2.0 dtex or higher. Accordingly, a more clear change in design can be clearly provided between the uneven-surface design portion and the non-uneven-surface design portion.
  • the fineness of the threads constituting the low fineness portion (that is, the total fineness, also called the yarn fineness) is set to be equal to or more than the total fineness of the threads constituting the high fineness portion. Accordingly, the low fineness portion is densely filled with fine fibers having a low single fiber fineness, and thus the voids between the fibers can be reduced.
  • the fabric having the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion on the surface portion as described above may be a woven fabric or a knitted fabric and may be selected appropriately depending on applications.
  • a method for forming the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion is also not particularly limited.
  • the woven fabric by using a thread having a low single fiber fineness as one of the warp and the weft and a thread heaving a high single fiber fineness as the other, these may be woven into a weave of a warp satin and a weft satin. Accordingly, the low fineness portion in which the threads having a low single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface and the high fineness portion in which the threads having a high single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface can be provided by the warp satin portion and the weft satin portion.
  • the low fineness portion in which the threads having a low single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface and the high fineness portion in which the threads having a high single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface can be provided by a yarn structure of threads having a low single fiber fineness and threads having a high single fiber fineness using the warp and the weft.
  • the knitted fabric like the woven fabric, by knitting the configuration of the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion by combining a knitted weave and a yarn structure using threads having a low single fiber fineness and threads having a high single fiber fineness, the low fineness portion in which the threads having a low single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface and the high fineness portion in which the threads having a high single fiber fineness are mainly exposed to the surface can be provided.
  • the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 is preferably 2500 to 5800 dtex, more preferably 3000 to 5800 dtex, and even more preferably 3500 to 5800 dtex.
  • the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 is calculated as follows. By the product of a warp density (pieces/25.4 mm), a warp fineness (thread fineness) (dtex), and 25.4 mm, the total fineness in a volume of 25.4 mm in a width direction with respect to a gray fabric longitudinal direction ⁇ 25.4 mm in a longitudinal direction ⁇ a fabric thickness (mm) is calculated. In this multiplying, assuming that the warp extends straight in the gray fabric longitudinal direction, 25.4 mm is multiplied. The total weft fineness is calculated in the same manner as the warp, and the sum of the total warp fineness and the total weft fineness is calculated.
  • the quotient of the calculated value divided by the volume (width direction ⁇ longitudinal direction ⁇ fabric thickness) is calculated to be used as the total fineness per 1 mm 3 .
  • the above expression is appropriately changed in consideration of yarn drawing or a weave. For example, when the yarn drawing is 1 in 3 out (that is, a structure of one yarn in and three yarns out), 1/4 is further multiplied.
  • Total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 warp density ⁇ warp fineness thread fineness ⁇ 25.4 + weft density ⁇ weft fineness thread fineness ⁇ 25.4 / 25.4 ⁇ 25.4 ⁇ fabric thickness mm
  • the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 is preferably 1000 to 5800 dtex, more preferably 1200 to 5800 dtex, and even more preferably 1500 to 5800 dtex.
  • the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 in the case of the knitted fabric is calculated as follows. By the product of twice a course density, the thread fineness, and 25.4 mm, the total fineness in a volume of the width direction (25.4 mm) with respect to the gray fabric longitudinal direction ⁇ the longitudinal direction (25.4 mm) ⁇ the fabric thickness (mm) is calculated. Since two cross-sections are shown in one loop in a cross-section perpendicular to the gray fabric longitudinal direction, the warp density is doubled in the calculation. In addition, it is assumed that a horizontal cross-section continues for 25.4 mm in the width direction.
  • the quotient of the calculated value divided by the volume is calculated to be used as the total fineness per 1 mm 3 .
  • the yarn fineness in a volume of a gray fabric width direction (25.4 mm) ⁇ the gray fabric longitudinal direction (25.4 mm) ⁇ the fabric thickness (mm) is calculated, and thereafter the calculated values are added.
  • the quotient of the added value divided by the volume is calculated, thereby obtaining the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 .
  • the above expression is appropriately changed in consideration of yarn drawing or a weave. For example, when the yarn drawing is 1 in 3 out, 1/4 is further multiplied.
  • Total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 in a case of tricot knitting and circular knitting total fineness * 1 for each yarn ⁇ course density ⁇ 2 ⁇ 25.4 / 25.4 ⁇ 25.4 ⁇ fabric thickness mm
  • Total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 in a case of a double raschel opened product total fineness for each ground yarn + total fineness for each pile yarn ⁇ course density ⁇ 2 ⁇ 25.4 / 25.4 ⁇ 25.4 ⁇ fabric thickness mm
  • Total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 in a case of a double raschel unopened product total fineness for each ground yarn + total yarn fineness for each connecting yarn ⁇ 2 ⁇ course density ⁇ 2 ⁇ 25.4 / 25.4 ⁇ 25.4 ⁇ fabric thickness mm
  • the material of the fibers constituting the fabric as the processing object is not particularly limited, and well-known fibers such as natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, and synthetic fibers may be used, and these fibers may be used in combination of two or more types by techniques such as blending, combining, twisting, mixed weaving, and mixed knitting.
  • a thermoplastic fiber is preferable from the viewpoints of the shaping properties and durability of the uneven-surface design.
  • synthetic fibers such as polyester, polypropylene, and nylon, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and triacetate may be employed. These may be used singly or in combination of two or more types. Among these, polyester is more preferable, and polyethylene terephthalate is particularly preferable for excellent physical properties.
  • the form of the threads constituting the fabric may be any of a spun yarn (short fiber yarn), a multifilament yarn, and a monofilament yarn (both are long fiber yarns), and may be a long and short fiber composite spun yarn which is a combination of a long fiber and a short fiber.
  • the multifilament yarn may be subjected to twisting if necessary, or may be subjected to processing such as false twisting or a fluid disturbance treatment.
  • the fabric may be subjected to a pre-treatment such as raising, dyeing, presetting, or scouring, if necessary.
  • a pre-treatment such as raising, dyeing, presetting, or scouring, if necessary.
  • raising it is preferable to cut and raise the threads which are exposed to the surface of the low fineness portion and have a low single fiber fineness because the uneven-surface design can be more easily shaped by the embossing.
  • the polyurethane resin used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include polyurethane resins based on polyether, polyester, polycarbonate, and the like. Among these, from the viewpoint of texture, a polyester-based polyurethane resin is preferably used, and from the viewpoint of durability, particularly wear resistance, a polycarbonate-based polyurethane resin is preferably used.
  • the softening temperature of the polyurethane resin is preferably 100°C to 200°C.
  • the softening temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry using a DSC thermal analyzer.
  • the application of the polyurethane resin is performed on the entire surface of the fabric having the low fineness portion and the high fineness portion on the surface.
  • the application amount of the polyurethane resin varies depending on the configuration of the fabric as the processing object, for example, density, fineness, and the like, but is preferably about 1 to 200 g/m 2 with respect to the fabric, more preferably 5 to 150 g/m 2 , and even more preferably 10 to 100 g/m 2 .
  • the polyurethane resin permeates between the fibers at least in the surface portion (surface layer portion) of the fabric to form the surface of the fabric together with the fibers, and unlike a grain face synthetic leather, the skin layer of the polyurethane resin alone is not formed over the entire surface of the fabric.
  • the application amount of the polyurethane resin is obtained by converting the application amount in the part to which the polyurethane resin is applied into the application amount per square meter and is a value in terms of the weight of a solid content after being dried.
  • a treatment liquid containing the polyurethane resin is applied to one side of the fabric.
  • the treatment liquid contains at least the polyurethane resin and a medium for dispersing the polyurethane resin, for example, water, and if necessary, may contain additives such as a coloring material (dye, pigment, or metal powder), or a thickener.
  • a method for applying the treatment liquid is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include screen printing, rotary printing, ink jet printing, and the like. In a case where the fabric has an uneven surface, a reverse coater, a comma coater, or the like may also be used.
  • the polyurethane resin is dried and solidified.
  • the drying may be performed to the extent that the medium does not remain, and the conditions thereof are not particularly limited, and may be appropriately set in consideration of the boiling point of the medium and production efficiency.
  • the entire surface is subjected to embossing.
  • the surface is caused to pass through an embossing roll having a temperature of 100°C to 160°C and a pressure (linear pressure) of 490 to 1960 N/cm to soften and shape the polyurethane resin on the surface of the fabric.
  • an uneven-surface pattern having an uneven surface reverse to a desired fine uneven-surface pattern is carved.
  • the temperature of the embossing roll is set in consideration of the softening temperature of the polyurethane resin, the material of the fibers constituting the fabric, required durability, and the like.
  • a heat treatment may be performed on the fabric after the shaping process in order to soften the texture.
  • the heat treatment is preferably performed at 100°C to 150°C for 30 seconds to 3 minutes.
  • the fabric bearing a design which partially has the uneven-surface design, can be obtained.
  • the polyurethane resin is present on the surface portion of the fabric bearing a design according to the embodiment, and the surface portion has the uneven-surface design portion and the non-uneven-surface design portion.
  • the polyurethane resin is present over the entire surface of the fabric together with the fibers, and the surface of the fabric is formed by the polyurethane resin and the fibers.
  • the polyurethane resin permeates between the fibers at least in the surface portion of the fabric in the thickness direction such that a polyurethane resin permeation portion is formed at least in the surface portion of the fabric.
  • Fig. 1 schematically shows an example of a surface design of the fabric bearing a design according to the embodiment.
  • a fabric bearing a design 1 has, in its surface portion, an uneven-surface design portion 2 to which an uneven-surface design having an embossed pattern is imparted and a non-uneven-surface design portion 3 to which the uneven-surface design having an embossed pattern is not imparted.
  • the uneven-surface design portion 2 and the non-uneven-surface design portion 3 are repeatedly provided in a predetermined pattern over the entire surface of the fabric 1 to form a repeated pattern.
  • a hexagonal pattern is formed by the uneven-surface design portion 2 surrounding the periphery of the hexagonal non-uneven-surface design portion 3.
  • the uneven-surface design portion 2 and the non-uneven-surface design portion 3 may be formed in a manner opposite to the configuration shown in Fig. 1 .
  • the shape, number, and arrangement thereof are not particularly limited and various modifications are possible.
  • the uneven-surface design portion is formed by the low fineness portion, and the non-uneven-surface design portion is formed by the high fineness portion. Therefore, the uneven-surface design portion is constituted by the threads having a lower single fiber fineness than that of the non-uneven-surface design portion, and the non-uneven-surface design portion is constituted by the threads having a higher single fiber fineness than that of the uneven-surface design portion.
  • the uneven-surface design portion adjacent fibers are more firmly fixed together by the polyurethane resin than in the non-uneven-surface design portion, so that the uneven-surface design is imparted to the surface by the embossing.
  • the low fineness portion since the fibers constituting the low fineness portion are thin, the spaces between the fibers are small and the spaces are easily filled with the polyurethane resin. Accordingly, the fibers are brought into a state of being fixed together by the polyurethane resin (see Fig. 2 ). Therefore, the low fineness portion can be easily shaped together with the polyurethane resin when performing embossing, and the uneven-surface design can be imparted thereto by the embossing.
  • the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing is not particularly limited, and a desired uneven-surface shape such as a leather-like grain pattern or a geometric pattern may be imparted.
  • the non-uneven-surface design portion adjacent fibers are more loosely fixed together by the polyurethane resin than the uneven-surface design portion, so that the uneven-surface design is not imparted to the surface by the embossing.
  • the high fineness portion since the fibers constituting the high fineness portion are thick, the spaces between the fibers are large, and in the same amount of the resin, the voids which are not filled with the polyurethane resin are greater than those in the low fineness portion. Therefore, the fibers are brought into a state in which the adjacent fibers are spot-joined by the polyurethane resin rather than being fixed together by the polyurethane resin (see Fig. 3 ).
  • the non-uneven-surface design portion is a part to which the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing is not imparted, and may also have an uneven-surface pattern formed by the threads of a weave in a woven fabric or knitted fabric as long as the uneven-surface pattern is an uneven-surface pattern which is not formed by embossing.
  • the polyurethane resin is imparted so that, in the low fineness portion (that is, the uneven-surface design portion), the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin is 40 to 400 ⁇ m, the filling ratio of the polyurethane resin is 10% to 55%, and the filling ratio of the fibers is 45% to 80%.
  • the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin is preferably in a range of 40 to 400 ⁇ m, more preferably 40 to 330 ⁇ m, even more preferably 40 to 260 ⁇ m, and particularly preferably 50 to 200 ⁇ m.
  • the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin is obtained by taking a photograph of a vertical section of the polyurethane resin permeation portion with a microscope, measuring the length in a vertical direction from the surface of the fabric to the permeation lower end of the polyurethane resin at arbitrary ten points, and calculating the average value thereof.
  • the polyurethane resin permeates between the fibers at least in the surface portion of the fabric and may permeate throughout the fabric thickness.
  • the polyurethane resin does not permeate through the entire thickness of the fabric. That is, it is preferable that a non-permeation portion is present below the polyurethane resin permeation portion.
  • the ratio of the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin to the thickness of the fabric bearing a design may be 5% to 25%, or may be 10% to 20%.
  • the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin is not particularly limited.
  • the permeation thickness thereof is greater than the permeation thickness in the uneven-surface design portion, and may be, for example, 100 to 500 ⁇ m, 130 to 400 ⁇ m, or 150 to 300 ⁇ m.
  • the ratio of the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin to the thickness of the fabric bearing a design is preferably higher than the ratio of the permeation thickness in the uneven-surface design portion, and may be, for example, 21% to 55%, 26% to 55%, or 30% to 55%.
  • the thickness of the fabric bearing a design is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, 0.2 to 3.0 mm (that is, 200 to 3000 ⁇ m), or 0.3 to 2.8 mm.
  • the numerical ranges of the ratio of the permeation thickness and the thickness of the fabric bearing a design are examples for a fabric excluding double raschel unopened products.
  • the filling ratio of the polyurethane resin is preferably in a range of 10% to 55%, more preferably 15% to 50%, and even more preferably 20% to 45%.
  • the filling ratio of the polyurethane resin is the proportion occupied by the polyurethane resin in the polyurethane resin permeation portion (a part in which the polyurethane resin permeates between the fibers), and is obtained as follows. That is, this is obtained by the following expression from the filling ratio of the fibers and the void ratio, which will be described later.
  • Filling ratio % of polyurethane resin 100 ⁇ filling ratio of fibers + void ratio
  • the filling ratio of the fibers is preferably in a range of 45% to 80%, more preferably 50% to 80%, and even more preferably 55% to 80%.
  • the filling ratio of the fibers By causing the filling ratio of the fibers to be 45% or more, the voids between the fibers can be reduced and thus the adhesion between the fibers can be improved, thereby improving the wear resistance.
  • the filling ratio of the fibers to be 80% or less the flexibility can be improved.
  • the filling ratio of the fibers in the non-uneven-surface design portion is not particularly limited, but is preferably 50% or less, and more preferably 20% to 45%. Typically, since the single fiber fineness of the fibers constituting the non-uneven-surface design portion is high and the voids between the fibers are large, the filling ratio of the fibers therein is lower than that in the uneven-surface design portion.
  • the filling ratio of the fibers is the proportion occupied by the fibers in the polyurethane resin permeation portion, and is obtained as follows. That is, the photograph of the vertical section of the polyurethane resin permeation portion taken with the microscope is read by a scanner, and the number (n) of yarn sections in a measurement area having a width of 100 ⁇ m as the lateral direction and having the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin in the vertical direction is measured, and the filling ratio of the fibers is obtained by the following expression.
  • the diameter R ( ⁇ m) of the yarn is obtained by measuring the diameters in the vertical and lateral directions of the cross-section of the yarn at arbitrary five points and averaging the measured values.
  • the filling ratio of the fibers is the average value of the filling ratios calculated by the following expression at arbitrary five points.
  • Filling ratio % of fibers 78.5 ⁇ R 2 ⁇ n ⁇ 100 ⁇ permeation thickness ⁇ m of polyurethane resin
  • the polyurethane resin is applied so that the void ratio in the high fineness portion (that is, the non-uneven-surface design portion) is 10% or more and is higher than the void ratio in the low fineness portion (that is, the uneven-surface design portion). That is, the void ratio in the non-uneven-surface design portion is preferably 10% or more, and more preferably 15% or more.
  • the upper limit of the void ratio in the non-uneven-surface design portion is not particularly limited, but it is typically 30% or less, and more preferably 20% or less.
  • the void ratio in the uneven-surface design portion is lower than the void ratio in the non-uneven-surface design portion and is not particularly limited, but is preferably less than 10%, and more preferably 7% or less.
  • the void ratio is the proportion of the voids in the polyurethane resin permeation portion, and is obtained as follows. That is, the photograph of the vertical section of the polyurethane resin permeation portion taken with the microscope is read by the scanner, and the voids and the other parts in the measurement area having a width of 100 ⁇ m in the lateral direction and having the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin in the vertical direction are binarized, and the proportion of the voids in the polyurethane resin permeation portion is calculated.
  • the void ratio in the polyurethane resin permeation portion is the average value of the void ratios calculated at arbitrary five points.
  • the ratio of the fibers to the polyurethane resin (fibers/polyurethane resin) in the uneven-surface design portion is preferably 1.0 or more, and more preferably 1.25 or more.
  • the ratio is obtained by calculating the respective areas by the product of each of the filling ratios of the fibers and the polyurethane resin calculated above and the measurement area and calculating the quotient of the area of the fibers divided by the area of the polyurethane resin.
  • the ratio of the fibers to the polyurethane resin (fiber/polyurethane resin) in the non-uneven-surface design portion is smaller than the ratio in the uneven-surface design portion, and is preferably less than 1.0, and more preferably less than 0.8.
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections in the uneven-surface design portion is preferably 1500 ⁇ m or more per unit area 10,000 ⁇ m 2 , and more preferably 2000 ⁇ m or more.
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections is 1500 ⁇ m or more, the adhesion between the polyurethane resin and the fibers is improved, the compression resilience of the fibers is suppressed, and thus the shaping properties of the uneven-surface shape formed by embossing can be improved.
  • the upper limit of the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, 9000 ⁇ m or less, or 6000 ⁇ m or less. It is preferable that the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections in the non-uneven-surface design portion is less than the value in the uneven-surface design portion.
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections is obtained as follows. That is, the photograph of the vertical section of the polyurethane resin permeation portion taken with the microscope is read by the scanner, and the number (n) of yarn sections in the measurement area having a width of 100 ⁇ m in the lateral direction and having the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin in the vertical direction is measured, and the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections is obtained by the following expression.
  • the diameter R ( ⁇ m) of the yarn is obtained by measuring the diameters in the vertical and lateral directions of the cross-section of the yarn at arbitrary five points and averaging the measured values.
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections is the average value of the sums of the outer circumferential lengths calculated at arbitrary five points.
  • Sum ⁇ m of outer circumferential lengths of fiber cross-sections 31,400 ⁇ R ⁇ n ⁇ 100 ⁇ permeation thickness of polyurethane resin ⁇ m
  • Fig. 2 shows the cross-section in the uneven-surface design portion of the fabric bearing a design according to this embodiment, and is a photograph of the vertical section of the polyurethane resin permeation portion on the surface side of the fabric, taken with a microscope (Digital HF Microscope VH-8000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation, the same is applied hereinafter).
  • the part surrounded by the rectangular frame in the photograph is the measurement range used when the filling ratio and the void ratio are measured, the measurement width is 100 ⁇ m, and the height is the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin.
  • Fig. 3 is a photograph of the vertical section of the non-uneven-surface design portion of the fabric described above, taken with a microscope. Like Fig.
  • the part surrounded by the rectangular frame in the photograph is the measurement range used when the filling ratio and the void ratio are measured, the measurement width is 100 ⁇ m, and the height is the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin.
  • the permeation thickness, the filling ratio, the void ratio, and the like are measured using these photographs, in order to reduce variations in the measurement position, the average value of five points or ten points randomly extracted from the thread part in which the fibers form a lump state (that is, excluding the boundary part between the threads) is calculated.
  • Fig. 4 is a photograph of the surface of the uneven-surface design portion (single fiber fineness: 0.6 dtex) of the fabric bearing a design according to an embodiment
  • Fig. 5 is a photograph of the surface before resin processing, both of which are taken with the microscope at a magnification of 100 times.
  • the low fineness portion while a large number of filaments are clearly shown before the resin processing shown in Fig. 5 , there is a clear change in the shape of the surface after the resin processing and embossing shown in Fig. 4 and each filament is not clearly shown.
  • Fig. 6 is a photograph of the surface of the non-uneven-surface design portion (single fiber fineness: 7.5 dtex) of the fabric described above
  • Fig. 7 is a photograph of the surface before the resin processing, both of which are taken with the microscope at a magnification of 100 times. In the high fineness portion, there is hardly any change in the shape of the surface before the resin processing shown in Fig. 7 and after the resin processing and embossing shown in Fig. 6 .
  • a fabric which partially has an uneven-surface design formed by embossing without complex processes and has the design of the fabric itself remaining in the other parts can be produced, and thus a fabric having a special design that has not yet been seen can be produced at low costs.
  • the application of the fabric bearing a design of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be used in various fields such as vehicle interior materials, interior materials, clothing, bags, and the like.
  • the pattern spacing is the distance between the apexes of adjacent protrusions
  • the inclination angle is the angle between the straight line connecting the highest position of the protrusion to the lowest position of the recess and a tangent to the highest position of the protrusion.
  • Embossing roll A recess width 800 ⁇ m, maximum recess depth 150 ⁇ m, pattern spacing 2000 ⁇ m, uneven-surface cross-sectional shape in vertical direction; corrugated, inclination angle 5 to 20 degrees, leather grain pattern
  • Embossing roll B recess width 1200 ⁇ m, maximum recess depth 250 ⁇ m, pattern spacing 5000 ⁇ m, uneven-surface cross-sectional shape in vertical direction; corrugated, inclination angle 10 to 30 degrees, leather grain pattern
  • Embossing roll C recess width 1500 ⁇ m, maximum recess depth 450 ⁇ m, pattern spacing 10,000 ⁇ m, uneven-surface cross-sectional shape in vertical direction; trapezoidal, line pattern
  • the uneven-surface design portions and the non-uneven-surface design portions of the products were visually observed and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
  • a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (single fiber fineness: 7.42 dtex) of 178 dtex/24 f was used as a warp
  • a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (single fiber fineness: 1.16 dtex) of 333 dtex/288 f was used as a weft
  • a card cloth raising machine provided with a card cloth roll having 12 pile rollers and 12 counter pile rollers, raising was performed mainly on the weft to form a napped surface by performing raising thereon 3 times alternately in a weaving end direction and in a weaving start direction at a card cloth roller torque of 2.5 MPa and a fabric speed of 12 m/min.
  • the resultant was subjected to a heat treatment by a heat setter at 150°C for 1 minute and was finished.
  • the density of the warps of the obtained fabric was 184 pieces/25.4 mm, the density of wefts was 88 pieces/25.4 mm, and the total fineness per unit volume 1 mm 3 was 4072 dtex.
  • a polyurethane resin solution (solid content 28 mass%) was applied to the entire surface at a fabric speed of 8 m/min by a knife coater. Clearance conditions were set so that the application amount of the polyurethane resin was 25 g/m 2 in terms of volume after drying. After applying the polyurethane resin solution, the resultant was dried for 5 minutes in an 80°C dryer.
  • embossing was performed thereon with an embossing machine at a roll temperature of 120°C, a roll pressure of 1960 N/cm, and a fabric speed of 3 m/min.
  • an embossing machine As the embossing roll, three types of rollers A to C described above were used.
  • the resultant was subjected to a heat treatment by the heat setter at 130°C for 1 minute and was finished.
  • the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin was 78 ⁇ m
  • the filling ratio of the fibers was 56.2%
  • the filling ratio of the polyurethane resin was 40.7%
  • the void ratio was 3.1%
  • the ratio between the fibers and the polyurethane resin (fibers/polyurethane resin) was 1.38
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections per unit area 10,000 ⁇ m 2 was 2196 ⁇ m.
  • the permeation thickness of the polyurethane resin was 199 ⁇ m
  • the filling ratio of the fibers was 36.3%
  • the filling ratio of the polyurethane resin was 46.8%
  • the void ratio was 16.9%
  • the ratio between the fibers and the polyurethane resin (fibers/polyurethane resin) was 0.78
  • the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the fiber cross-sections per unit area 10,000 ⁇ m 2 was 1682 ⁇ m.
  • the thickness of the fabric bearing a design was 600 ⁇ m.
  • Example 1 the fabric having a unique design in which the uneven-surface design portion having a leather-like grain pattern and the non-uneven-surface design portion having the design of the woven structure of the fabric itself were repeated in a predetermined pattern over the entire fabric was obtained.
  • Example 7 the filling ratio of the fibers in the uneven-surface design portion was low, and the wear resistance was deteriorated compared to Example 1.
  • Example 8 the filling ratio of the fibers in the uneven-surface design portion was high, and the flexibility was deteriorated compared to Example 1.
  • Example 10 the void ratio in the non-uneven-surface design portion is low, and the uneven-surface shape formed by the embossing was slightly seen even in the non-uneven-surface design portion. Therefore, the design properties were deteriorated compared to Example 1, and the wear resistance was also deteriorated compared to Example 1.
  • the wear resistance was measured according to the wear strength C method (Taber type method) of JIS L 1096 8.19.3 (conditions: abrasive wheel CS-10, load 4.9 N, wear count 1000 times), the specimen after the wear test was observed and evaluated from the viewpoint of whether or not there is a change in outer appearance, and whether or not the uneven-surface design is unclear or disappears.
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 Example 4
  • Example 5 Example 6
  • Example 7 Example 8
  • Example 10 Comparative Example 1
  • Woven fabric Weft Type Multifilament false twisted yarn ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Yarn fineness (dtex) 333 216 360 275 330 140 330 150 330 330 333
  • Number of filaments (pieces) 288 144 2400 172 288 72 288 72 288 288 288 Single fiber fineness (dtex) 1.16 1.50 0.15 1.60 1.15 1.94 1.15
  • a stripe pattern tricot knitted fabric including a part (14 wales) composed of L2 and L3 and a part (12 wales) composed of L4 was prepared according to the weaves shown in Table 3.
  • the polyurethane resin solution solid content 28 mass% was applied to sinker loop surfaces (L2, L3, and L4) by a reverse coater at a fabric speed of 5 m/minute and a roll rotation speed of 12 m/min.
  • the roll rotation speed conditions were set so that the application amount of the polyurethane resin was 25 g/m 2 in terms of volume after drying.
  • the resultant was dried for 5 minutes in the 80°C dryer.
  • the polyurethane resin solution the polyurethane resin "RYUDTE-W BINDER UF6025" (manufactured by DIC Corporation) was used.
  • embossing was performed thereon with the embossing machine at a roll temperature of 160°C, a roll pressure of 490 N/cm, and a fabric speed of 3 m/min.
  • the embossing roll three types of rollers A to C described above were used.
  • the resultant was subjected to a heat treatment by the heat setter at 130°C for 1 minute and was finished.
  • Example 12 a double raschel knitted fabric was opened, and the polyurethane resin solution was applied to a stripe pattern pile surface formed by a part (10 wales) constituted by L3 and a part (10 wales) constituted by L4.
  • the part formed by the yarn fed through the reed L3 became an uneven-surface design portion, and an uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was imparted thereto.
  • the part formed by the yarn fed through the reed L4 becomes a non-uneven-surface design portion, and the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was not imparted thereto.
  • Example 13 without opening a double raschel knitted fabric, the polyurethane resin solution was applied to stripe pattern face ground weave surfaces (L4 and L5) formed by a part (7 wales) constituted by L4 and a part (7 wales) constituted by L5.
  • the part formed by the yarn fed through the reed L4 became an uneven-surface design portion, and an uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was imparted thereto.
  • the part formed by the yarn fed through the reed L5 becomes a non-uneven-surface design portion, and the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was not imparted thereto.
  • Example 14 the polyurethane resin solution was applied to the surface of a border pattern formed by a part (14 courses) constituted by a face yarn 1 of a double jersey knitted fabric and a part (14 courses) constituted by a face yarn 2.
  • the part formed by the face yarn 1 became an uneven-surface design portion, and an uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was imparted thereto.
  • the part formed by the face yarn 2 becomes a non-uneven-surface design portion, and the uneven-surface design formed by the embossing was not imparted thereto.
  • Example 11 Example 12
  • Example 13 Example 14 tricot double raschel (opened) double raschel (unopened) double jersey Back yarn L1 face yarn 1
  • Yarn fineness (dtex) 84 84 84 84 Number of filaments (pieces) 36 36 36 144 Single fiber fineness (dtex) 2.33 2.33 2.33 0.58
  • Yarn structure Full set Full set Full set Total of 14 yarns Middle yarn L2 face yarn 2

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)
  • Synthetic Leather, Interior Materials Or Flexible Sheet Materials (AREA)

Claims (13)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer gewebten oder gewirkten Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, die teilweise ein Muster mit unebener Oberfläche durch Prägung hat, wobei der Prozess Folgendes aufweist:
    Auftragen eines Polyurethanharzes auf eine Oberfläche einer Textilie, die an ihrer Oberfläche einen Bereich mit geringer Feinheit und einen Bereich mit hoher Feinheit hat, wobei der Bereich mit geringer Feinheit Fäden mit einer geringeren Einzelfaserfeinheit als der des Bereichs mit hoher Feinheit enthält und der Bereich mit hoher Feinheit Fäden mit einer höheren Einzelfaserfeinheit als der des Bereichs mit niedriger Feinheit enthält;
    Trocknen der Textilie und
    Durchführen von Prägung an der Oberfläche der Textilie.
  2. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach Anspruch 1,
    wobei durch Durchführen der Prägung, während das Muster mit unebener Oberfläche durch die Prägung nicht dem Bereich mit hoher Feinheit verliehen wird und ein Muster ohne unebene Oberfläche gebildet wird, das Muster mit unebener Oberfläche durch die Prägung dem Bereich mit niedriger Feinheit verliehen wird und ein Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche gebildet wird.
  3. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach Anspruch 1 oder 2,
    wobei der Bereich mit niedriger Feinheit Fäden mit einer Einzelfaserfeinheit von 1,5 dtex oder weniger enthält und
    der Bereich mit hoher Feinheit Fäden mit einer Einzelfaserfeinheit von mehr als 1,5 dtex enthält.
  4. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3,
    wobei das Polyurethanharz so aufgetragen wird, dass im Bereich mit niedriger Feinheit eine Eindringungsdicke des Polyurethanharzes 40 bis 400 µm ist, ein Füllungsverhältnis des Polyurethanharzes 10 % bis 55 % ist und ein Füllungsverhältnis von Fasern 45 % bis 80 % ist.
  5. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4,
    wobei das Polyurethanharz so aufgetragen wird, dass ein Hohlraumverhältnis im Bereich mit hoher Feinheit 10 % oder höher ist und höher ist als ein Hohlraumverhältnis im Bereich mit geringer Feinheit.
  6. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5,
    wobei das Polyurethanharz so aufgetragen wird, dass das Polyurethanharz wenigstens in einem Oberflächenbereich der Textilie zwischen die Fasern eindringt und die Oberfläche der Textilie von dem Polyurethanharz und den Fasern gebildet wird.
  7. Gewebte oder gewirkte Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, wobei sie Folgendes aufweist:
    ein Polyurethanharz, das an einem Oberflächenbereich der Textilie vorhanden ist; und
    einen Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche und einen Bereich des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche am Oberflächenbereich der Textilie,
    wobei der Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche von Fäden mit einer geringeren Einzelfaserfeinheit als der des Bereichs des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche gebildet wird und ein Muster mit unebener Oberfläche durch Prägung einer Oberfläche des Bereichs des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche verliehen wird, und
    der Bereich des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche von Fäden mit einer höheren Einzelfaserfeinheit als der des Bereichs des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche gebildet wird und das Muster mit unebener Oberfläche durch die Prägung einer Oberfläche des Bereichs des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche nicht verliehen wird.
  8. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach Anspruch 7,
    wobei benachbarte Fasern in dem Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche durch das Polyurethanharz fester aneinander befestigt sind als im Bereich des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche, so dass dem Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche durch die Prägung das Muster mit unebener Oberfläche verliehen wird.
  9. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach Anspruch 7 oder 8,
    wobei der Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche Fäden mit einer Einzelfaserfeinheit von 1,5 dtex oder weniger enthält und
    der Bereich des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche Fäden mit einer Einzelfaserfeinheit von mehr als 1,5 dtex enthält.
  10. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 9,
    wobei im Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche eine Eindringungsdicke des Polyurethanharzes 40 bis 400 µm ist, ein Füllungsverhältnis des Polyurethanharzes 10 % bis 55 % ist und ein Füllungsverhältnis der Fasern 45 % bis 80 % ist.
  11. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 10,
    wobei ein Hohlraumverhältnis im Bereich des Musters ohne unebene Oberfläche 10 % oder höher ist und höher ist als ein Hohlraumverhältnis im Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche.
  12. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 11,
    wobei das Polyurethanharz wenigstens in einem Oberflächenbereich der Textilie zwischen die Fasern eindringt und eine Oberfläche der Textilie von dem Polyurethanharz und den Fasern gebildet wird.
  13. Textilie, die eine Musterung trägt, nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 12,
    wobei eine Summe von Außenumfangslängen von Faserquerschnitten im Bereich des Musters mit unebener Oberfläche 1500 µm oder mehr pro Einheitsfläche von 10.000 µm2 ist.
EP15869534.6A 2014-12-15 2015-12-10 Stoff mit einem design und verfahren zur herstellung davon Not-in-force EP3235947B1 (de)

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JP6345833B2 (ja) * 2016-05-27 2018-06-20 トヨタ紡織株式会社 表皮材及び構造体並びに表皮材の製造方法
JP6860785B2 (ja) * 2017-03-03 2021-04-21 テイ・エス テック株式会社 乗物用シート
JP2019099932A (ja) * 2017-11-30 2019-06-24 セーレン株式会社 意匠付き布帛およびその製造方法
JP2020142402A (ja) * 2019-03-04 2020-09-10 セーレン株式会社 エンボス加工型、エンボス加工装置及びエンボス加工方法
WO2021200420A1 (ja) * 2020-04-02 2021-10-07 セーレン株式会社 表皮材
JP6815680B1 (ja) * 2020-08-31 2021-01-20 スミノエ テイジン テクノ株式会社 車両用内装材、車両用内装材の製造方法、及びエンボスロール

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EP2042648B1 (de) * 2006-06-27 2012-08-15 Kuraray Co., Ltd. Lederartiges flächengebilde und verfahren zur herstellung von lederartigen flächengebilden
JP2008273103A (ja) * 2007-05-02 2008-11-13 Japan Polymer-Ku Kk 凹凸柄を形成した繊維系製品の製造法
JP2010248668A (ja) * 2009-04-17 2010-11-04 Teijin Fibers Ltd 布帛および繊維製品
KR101261228B1 (ko) * 2011-06-01 2013-05-07 현대자동차주식회사 통기성을 가지는 인조가죽의 제조방법
CN102505529A (zh) * 2011-10-13 2012-06-20 上海华峰超纤材料股份有限公司 压花染色超细纤维合成革的制造方法
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US20170342657A1 (en) 2017-11-30
WO2016098325A1 (ja) 2016-06-23
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CN107002353A (zh) 2017-08-01
JP6145585B2 (ja) 2017-06-14
JPWO2016098325A1 (ja) 2017-06-15

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