EP0632973B1 - Procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure - Google Patents
Procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0632973B1 EP0632973B1 EP19940890066 EP94890066A EP0632973B1 EP 0632973 B1 EP0632973 B1 EP 0632973B1 EP 19940890066 EP19940890066 EP 19940890066 EP 94890066 A EP94890066 A EP 94890066A EP 0632973 B1 EP0632973 B1 EP 0632973B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- seam
- hole
- thread
- holes
- needle
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
- A43B9/02—Footwear stitched or nailed through
Definitions
- the invention relates to a method for producing a shoe, in which at least one upper part is connected to a sole or midsole via a handmade edge seam, for which matching holes are provided in the parts to be connected for pulling through the thread and in which the thread passes through each hole and along the one outside of the seam each twice, but only on the other outside of the seam.
- Shoes manufactured by such a method are mostly relatively light and simple footwear.
- the edge of the upper part is preferably bent outwards so that it overlaps in the edge region on the sole or midsole.
- the holes in the upper part and sole needed for the production of the seam are usually already made before the seam is formed when the sole is being formed or the upper part is punched or cut. It is customary for a shoe of the type mentioned at the outset to pass the thread or the other suture material through the holes to form a so-called backstitch seam.
- the thread is guided on one seam side with stitches reaching over two holes (pre-stitches) and on the other seam side in the backstitch to the hole skipped during the pre-stitch and pulled back to the other seam side, so that there are two stitches offset by the distance between the holes run.
- the required thread length must be determined before the sewing work begins and that this entire thread length must be pulled through the holes to form the stitches mentioned, at the start of the seam, so that the free thread length decreases with increasing seam length. It is usually worked with excess lengths when twisting to avoid denominations in the course of the seam. The remaining twine after the seam is finished is lost.
- GB 1 497 946 A has proposed a device for making a seam in prefabricated holes in the sole and upper part of a shoe, in which each stitch of the sewing needle must be triggered by a foot switch after the parts are aligned with their holes on the needle were.
- the object of the invention is to eliminate the disadvantages mentioned with simple means and to provide a method for producing a shoe in which the threading of larger lengths of thread through the holes is avoided in the production of the seam, for the seam only the thread length actually required is consumed and in which a faster and more uniform production is possible than with the backstitch seam.
- the invention consists in that the seam is designed as a crochet seam, in which stitch loops are formed on one seam side from each hole to the next hole, the twine is simply brought up from the previous hole and into the other seam side the hole is inserted, is led back through the same hole from the stitch loop back to the next hole and in which the two thread pieces forming the stitch are passed through the stitch loop brought up from the previous hole.
- a crochet-like tool can be used for the production of the seam, in which only the needle part with the hook has to be passed through the holes and pulled out again after the same side of the hole, so that there is the possibility of one Ergonomically favorable handle to attach.
- the thread runs from hole to hole on each seam side. The end result is a seam similar to a quilted seam.
- the thread After each stitch, the thread can be tightened evenly and firmly, and the thread, which has an even tension, cannot slip back. It is sewn directly from the bobbin, so that the previously necessary cutting of the thread can be omitted in advance.
- a seam can be produced at least half faster than with the previous technology, whereby since there is no need to pull through, the danger of discolouration of the thread is avoided with dyed leather and a beautiful, uniform seam is obtained. Working with the new tool is easier than before.
- the seam can be made from top to bottom-outside as well as from outside to inside as required.
- Sole 1 and upper leather 2 of a shoe 3 are connected by a handmade edge seam 4.
- the upper leather 2 is bent outwards in the contact area, which is by no means the only embodiment, and, like the sole 1, has through-holes 5 which correspond to the sole and the upper leather.
- a thread 6 or other suture material is used to produce the seam.
- a backstitch is carried out with a needle over two successive holes in order to fix the thread end.
- a stitch 7 reaching to the next hole is formed on the one outside of the seam.
- a crochet-like tool 8 with barb 9 and ergonomically favorable handle, not shown, is inserted in the manner shown in Fig.
Landscapes
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Claims (2)
- Procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure, dans lequel au moins une partie supérieure (2) est reliée à une semelle (1) ou une semelle intermédiaire, par l'intermédiaire d'une couture de bordure (4) fabriquée à la main pour laquelle, dans les parties (1, 2) à relier, sont prévus des trous (5) préfabriqués, coïncidant, destinés au passage du fil (6) et couture pour laquelle le fil (6) est guidé à travers chaque trou (5) et le long d'une première face extérieure de couture, chaque fois à deux reprises (12), mais seulement à une reprise (7) sur l'autre face extérieure de la couture, caractérisé en ce que la couture (4) est réalisée sous forme de couture en crochet, pour laquelle des boucles de maille (12) sont constituées, allant sur un côté de la couture, depuis chaque trou (5) juqu'au trou suivant, le fil (7, 10) étant amené à une reprise sur l'autre côté de la couture, depuis le trou précédent, et est inséré dans le trou, guidé dans le même trou en revenant de la boucle de maille (12) vers le trou subséquent, et couture pour laquelle les deux morceaux de fil (10, 11) constituant la maille (12) sont introduits, au trou (5), à travers la boucle de maille (12) amenée depuis le trou précédent.
- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la couture (4) est réalisée avec un outil (8) du genre d'une aiguille au crochet, avec une poignée ergonomiquement avantageuse.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT1078/93 | 1993-06-03 | ||
AT107893 | 1993-06-03 |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0632973A2 EP0632973A2 (fr) | 1995-01-11 |
EP0632973A3 EP0632973A3 (fr) | 1995-03-01 |
EP0632973B1 true EP0632973B1 (fr) | 1997-01-02 |
Family
ID=3506118
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP19940890066 Expired - Lifetime EP0632973B1 (fr) | 1993-06-03 | 1994-04-07 | Procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0632973B1 (fr) |
AT (1) | AT555U1 (fr) |
DE (1) | DE59401450D1 (fr) |
DK (1) | DK0632973T3 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0770964A1 (fr) | 1995-10-26 | 1997-05-02 | Matsushita Electric Industrial Co., Ltd. | Système de fichiers |
KR101343671B1 (ko) | 2013-08-27 | 2013-12-20 | 김부용 | 신발의 제조방법 |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CH178524A (de) * | 1934-11-08 | 1935-07-31 | Schuhfabrik Zurzach A G | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schuhwerk. |
CH232105A (de) * | 1943-04-02 | 1944-05-15 | Loew Hans | Schuh mit durchgenähter Laufsohle und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben. |
GB1497946A (en) * | 1975-09-11 | 1978-01-12 | Howarth & Sons Ltd Lambert | Manufacture of footwear |
JP2796880B2 (ja) * | 1990-06-18 | 1998-09-10 | 株式会社バルダン | 環縫いミシンにおける縫製場所替方法 |
JPH0489094A (ja) * | 1990-07-31 | 1992-03-23 | Barudan Co Ltd | 環縫いミシン |
-
1994
- 1994-04-07 DK DK94890066T patent/DK0632973T3/da active
- 1994-04-07 EP EP19940890066 patent/EP0632973B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1994-04-07 DE DE59401450T patent/DE59401450D1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1994-11-15 AT AT0811594U patent/AT555U1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP0632973A2 (fr) | 1995-01-11 |
DE59401450D1 (de) | 1997-02-13 |
EP0632973A3 (fr) | 1995-03-01 |
DK0632973T3 (da) | 1997-06-02 |
AT555U1 (de) | 1996-01-25 |
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