EP0128860B1 - Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement - Google Patents
Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0128860B1 EP0128860B1 EP84810169A EP84810169A EP0128860B1 EP 0128860 B1 EP0128860 B1 EP 0128860B1 EP 84810169 A EP84810169 A EP 84810169A EP 84810169 A EP84810169 A EP 84810169A EP 0128860 B1 EP0128860 B1 EP 0128860B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- parts
- garment
- edges
- sleeve
- piece
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B1/00—Shirts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
Definitions
- the invention relates to an upper body garment with front part, back part and arm, a method for producing such a garment and cut fabric parts for such an upper body garment.
- the known upper body garments consist of several parts and, for example, require more than nine operations in their manufacture, without, for example, the attachment of waist widths (e.g. CH-PS 533 428).
- the upper body clothing known as shirts requires above all two-sided closing seams connected to lower sleeve closing seams, which already requires two operations from the sleeve approach to the end of the stick.
- four cut parts are required for one embodiment of the aforementioned prior art, which already require nine operations for sewing. Together with sleeves, there are therefore six parts and eleven work steps. This not only leads to a considerable number of cuts and therefore to a correspondingly high consumption of material, but the shirt also has a correspondingly high number of seams.
- the respective cuts and thus shapes of the well-known shirt can not be used for all types of fabric. Rather, it is difficult to achieve a well-fitting fit with a cut from elastic fabric in other types of fabric with the required widths.
- the upper body garment of the type mentioned at the outset has an upper part which comprises the two sleeves, upper arm width parts and a back part, and has a lower part which comprises the lower back part and at least one front part, and has a single closing seam which is continuous from one arm part of the ankle over the back part to the other part of the arm ankle.
- the only closing seam and the closing seam guide according to the invention make the side seams otherwise necessary for every upper body garment superfluous. Not only can new manufacturing methods be achieved, but the upper body garment can advantageously consist of two parts. Regardless of the type of fabric, any upper body garment can be made. Above all, the upper body garment according to the invention can be used to achieve a fit that is better adapted to the physique.
- the new closing seam guide in the upper body garment can consist of an upper part and a lower part.
- the upper part preferably comprises the two sleeves, the upper arm parts and the upper front and back parts.
- the two sleeves, the upper arm sections and the upper front and back sections are preferably seamlessly connected to one another and therefore consist of one piece.
- the lower part preferably has the lower back part and the front parts, which are preferably also seamlessly connected to one another, so that the lower part also preferably consists of one piece.
- the upper and lower parts of the sleeves are preferably built into the front part and back part parts of the upper part of the upper arm, which creates a new cut line and means that the new closing seam only requires a single operation.
- This closing seam guide deviates from the previously known manufacturing processes.
- the upper part and the lower part of the same are preferably connected to each other only by three seams, i. H. thanks to two composite seams and the only closing seam.
- the upper body garment according to the invention requires a new construction, in which an elegant fit is preferably created from two parts, with an advantageous amount of curvature the cut is adapted to the body shape.
- the lower part which is preferably formed in one piece, then has counter-tails which are adapted very precisely and are connected to the upper part's tails by seams.
- the upper part can have curved curves on both sides, starting from a neckline at the edge abutting the front part, up to a back arm hole, for which corresponding counter-curves are present in the lower part.
- the tails and the counter-tails correspond to or contain z. B. an armpit molding and the front parts of the lower part have z. B. part of the neckline.
- An armpit seam of the garment according to the invention is preferably part of the connecting seam between the upper part and the lower part and runs in a rounded shape under a part of the support corresponding to the arm ball to the arm or armpit in an armhole of the back part.
- a bonded seam can run along the curves and counter-curves.
- the third seam, i.e. H. the closing seam then runs along the sleeves and the edge of the back section between the top and bottom.
- the one-piece bottom part can have darts between the front part and the back part.
- An upper body garment with a front part, back part and sleeves can therefore be produced according to the invention by connecting an upper part, which comprises the two sleeves, upper arm width parts and an upper back part, by means of a single closing seam to a lower part which comprises the lower back part and front parts, which closing seam runs continuously from one part of the ankle over the closing edges of the sleeves and the edges of the back part to the other part of the ankle.
- the two sleeves and the upper back part are preferably cut to the upper arm width part and connected seamlessly to the same, so that there is preferably a one-piece upper part.
- the front parts are preferably cut to the back part and seamlessly connected to the same, so that there is preferably an integral lower part.
- the aforementioned one-piece upper part is therefore connected to the one-piece lower part, also mentioned above.
- the upper body garment brings a remarkable advantage in terms of manufacture. This is preferably achieved in that only one upper and one lower part, i.e. H. so two large parts to be cut.
- Advantageous embodiments of the method for producing the garment can be achieved with the features of claims 10 to 13.
- the upper part and the lower part can be sewn along the curly edges of the parts which run along the armpit part and a back arm hole between one side of a neckline and back part edges.
- correspondingly curved and running edges can then be sewn along between the other side of the half-cut and the edges of the back part.
- the upper part can then be sewn to the lower part by means of the closing seam, which runs along the one sleeve edge, the back edge and the other sleeve edge.
- the neckline in each case, sewing in the third work step starting from the sleeve that lies on the seam produced first.
- darts can be inserted on both sides at the transition from the back section to the respective front section.
- a collar can be attached to the neckline and fastenings can be attached to the front parts, and the free ends of the sleeves can be cuffed.
- the upper body garment according to the invention can be used on all ready-made clothing, e.g. B. women's, girl's, men's and boy's clothing can be applied. Any substances can be used, e.g. B. woven and knitted fabrics or nonwovens, e.g. B. from natural and synthetic fibers, or z. B. also leather or synthetic leather.
- the upper body garment can be in various forms, e.g. B. as a shirt, blouse, pajamas, trainers, sportswear, z. B. ski jacket, or denim jacket or rainwear or workwear. The small number of seams is particularly advantageous for rainwear.
- the workplace is designed appropriately, a considerable saving in working time can be achieved from cutting to final production.
- the three operations are necessary, depending on the workplace design z. B. each about 1.5 min. H. together can be 4.5 minutes.
- three grip times of 1 min each, d. H. a total of 3 minutes so the total production time for the garment is preferably 7.5 minutes. Since the other manufacturing processes can be shortened by the invention, the total manufacturing time can be reduced considerably.
- up to 10 minutes can be saved in the entire production per upper body garment. This clearly shows the advantage of the present invention over known manufacturing methods for upper body garments.
- a cut fabric part for carrying out the method according to the invention is further created, which comprises the sleeves, upper arm width parts and an upper back part as the upper part.
- the sleeves and the upper back part are preferably cut to the upper arm width parts and connected seamlessly to one another, so that the upper part consists of one piece.
- Another preferred execution shapes of the fabric part can be achieved with the features of claims 14 to 17.
- the upper part preferably has a cutout on its one longer side, which has curved edges on both sides, starting from a neckline. The edges preferably run along an armpit part and a back arm hole to the respective sleeve edges.
- the other longer side of the top, including the sleeves can have a cut-out edge on the cut fabric.
- the edges of the upper part are preferably formed with the cut sleeves for fitting and sewing with correspondingly formed edges of the other parts of the garment.
- a cut fabric part serving as a lower part for carrying out the method according to the invention comprises a lower back part with front parts.
- the front parts are preferably cut to the lower back part and consist seamlessly of one piece therewith, so that a one-piece lower part can be created.
- this cut fabric part can be connected as a lower part to the other cut fabric part according to the invention, which serves as an upper part.
- the cut fabric part serving as the lower part for. B. on the side to be connected to the other parts of the garment of each front part a cutout that has a curvilinear edge starting from a neckline cutout.
- This edge runs along a shaped armpit part and a back arm hole up to a back part edge.
- the back part edge is preferably between the cutouts and the neck part cutouts are preferably located on the outer free sides of the front parts.
- the curly edges of the front parts and the back part edge are preferably designed for fitting and sewing with appropriately designed edges of the other parts of the garment.
- a template for cutting an upper body garment that has front parts, a back part and sleeves.
- This template has z. B. on a first part, which includes the sleeves, upper arm sections and an upper back part of an upper part of the garment.
- the template preferably has a second part which comprises the back part and the front parts of a lower part of the item of clothing.
- the parts of the template corresponding to the sleeves, the upper arm parts and the upper back part of the upper part on the one hand and those of the lower back part and the front parts swa lower part corresponding to parts of the same on the other hand can consist of one piece.
- a piece of clothing can be achieved which consists of two parts which are connected to one another only by three seams.
- part 0 corresponding to the upper part of the upper body clothing item and a part U corresponding to the lower part of the outer clothing item, which are also referred to below as “upper part 0 and“ lower part U.
- the upper part 0 consists of one piece and includes the upper arm width sections 09.09a with the sleeves 1.1a cut onto it and the back section 011, so that the sleeves 1.1a and the back section section 011 are seamlessly connected to the upper arm width sections 09.09a.
- the elements 03 to 08 or 03a to 08a listed above in tabular form follow this on both sides in a curved manner.
- the other long side 3 of the upper part 0, including the lower sleeve edges 4, 4a, which correspond to the closing seams 017 and 017a, are designed without cutouts.
- the sleeves 1, 1a shown here abbreviated are provided with the cut-on sleeve panels 018.018a.
- the lower part U consists of a back part 5 and front parts 6, 6a cut thereon, so that the back part 5 is seamless with the front parts 6, 6a and consists of one piece with the same.
- the lower part U is thus in one piece.
- the axillary counter-curvatures U3, U3a are adjoined on both sides by the neck cut front parts U2, U2a, correspondingly curved.
- U10 shows e.g. B. the width of the chest area of the respective front parts 6,6a.
- Darts U15, U15a are present between the front part 6, 6a and the back part 5.
- the front parts 6, 6a have crossovers 7, 7a and a bend 8, 8a, on which closing devices for the lower part can be attached.
- the lines FL in the upper part O and in the lower part U indicate the thread course of the chain when z. B. there is a tissue. This is decisive for the cutting direction and of crucial importance, since the thread run exactly matches the cutting line. So that the thread path, d. H.
- the upper part 0 is cut along the edges 017.011a a and 017a as well as on the edges 01 to 08 or 01a to 08a and also on the front edges 9.9a of the sleeves. Then the top is finished.
- a cut fabric part is cut along the edges which correspond to the parts or elements U2a to U8a, U11a and U8 to U2 specified above. Furthermore, of course, cuts are made at the corresponding edges along the fold and at the fourth edge of the lower part U, which is not shown.
- the upper part 0 and the lower part U can be sewn together as follows:
- a composite seam is produced along the sections 08a to 03a and U8 to U3, which are also referred to as edges, by sewing.
- the intersection or corner point OSa at the transition from the lower sleeve rounding 08a to the sleeve closing edge of the upper part 0 according to arrow A and the intersection or corner point USa at the transition from the lower sleeve opposite curvature U8 to the back closing edge U11a of the lower part U according to arrow A are brought together or put together .
- the intersection or transition points OSa, on the upper part O and US, on the lower part U according to arrow C coincide.
- intersection or transition point OS between the front neckline 02 and armpit shape 03 of the upper part 0 and the intersection or transition point USa, at the transition between the neckline front part U2a and axillary counter-curve U3a are merged according to arrow D, and then along the edges 03 to 08 and U3a to U8a by sewing one Composite seam produced.
- the intersections OS 2 on the upper part 0 and USa 2 on the lower part U according to arrows E and E 1 then coincide after the application of this seam.
- the ankle part 10 is sewn continuously along the upper and lower sleeve closure edges 017, the back closure edges 011a.U11a and the upper and lower sleeve closure edges 017a up to the sleeve ankle part 10a. There is then a continuous closing seam along the aforementioned edges from the ankle part 10 via the back parts 011 and U11 to the ankle part 10a.
- the first step can also be started by z. B. merges the transition points OSa 1 and US 1 according to arrow C and starts from the armpit molded part 03a or armpit counter-curvature U3 the first composite seam.
- a collar can be attached to the neckline O1, O2, O2a, U2, U2a and customary closures, such as buttons or buttonholes or zippers, can be attached to the neck.
- Cuffs can also be attached to the sleeves in the usual way.
- the template shown in the drawing preferably represents a basic shape of the upper part and the lower part.
- the axillary form seam can be laid at the level of the clavicle in the front part. Due to the curvatures on the upper part and on the lower part, the armpit seam can run in a rounded shape under the arm ball of the wearer up to the arm cavity and beyond into the back arm hole, which can run deep into the back part shape.
- This line of cut results in the upper part created according to the invention, which preferably has a completely redesigned sleeve shape and forms a whole with it. This results in z. B.
- the required end widths and also the simple manufacture according to the invention since the sleeve ends are preferably built into the sleeve shape and can be present as a finish with or without cuffs.
- the z. B. attached customers have deep bust size in waist shape to high hip width. In the simplest of operations, the waist size can be made narrower or wider depending on the wearer's stature.
- the three seam parts result in a harmonious whole and z. B. also great freedom of movement for the wearer of the garment created according to the invention.
- the thread dividers lengthways, crossways and diagonally, which are preferably exactly matched to each other in both parts, a good fit can be achieved with a comfortable fit of the garment.
- the template according to the invention can, for. B. cut a two-part confection piece, z. B. the adjustment of stripes or checks is omitted because z. B.
- the thread runs when connecting the upper part and lower part can be exactly matched.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Claims (22)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT84810169T ATE40511T1 (de) | 1983-04-27 | 1984-04-06 | Oberkoerperbekleidungsstueck, verfahren zur herstellung eines oberkoerperbekleidungsstueckes, geschnittene stoffteile fuer ein oberkoerperbekleidungsstueck und schablone zum zuschneiden eines oberkoerperbekleidungsstueckes. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CH2258/83 | 1983-04-27 | ||
CH225883A CH655430B (fr) | 1983-04-27 | 1983-04-27 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0128860A1 EP0128860A1 (fr) | 1984-12-19 |
EP0128860B1 true EP0128860B1 (fr) | 1989-02-01 |
Family
ID=4229572
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP84810169A Expired EP0128860B1 (fr) | 1983-04-27 | 1984-04-06 | Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US4635301A (fr) |
EP (1) | EP0128860B1 (fr) |
AT (1) | ATE40511T1 (fr) |
CA (1) | CA1229451A (fr) |
CH (1) | CH655430B (fr) |
DE (1) | DE3476510D1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4981307A (en) * | 1988-02-18 | 1991-01-01 | Walsh Andrew C | Suspension harness/body jacket arrangement |
US6474367B1 (en) * | 1998-09-21 | 2002-11-05 | Georgia Tech Research Corp. | Full-fashioned garment in a fabric and optionally having intelligence capability |
US20080078009A1 (en) * | 2006-10-02 | 2008-04-03 | Longworth Industries, Inc. | Shirt construction |
KR101536139B1 (ko) * | 2013-09-05 | 2015-07-13 | 연세대학교 산학협력단 | 직물전극 키트 및 이를 장착한 동잡음 최소화 의복 |
CN106661782B (zh) * | 2014-05-09 | 2018-06-29 | 北面服饰公司 | 多个区的整体编织织物构造 |
KR101919676B1 (ko) | 2015-04-30 | 2018-11-16 | 더 노스 훼이스 어패럴 코오포레이션 | 단열성 충전재를 위한 배플 구조체 |
USD783932S1 (en) | 2015-06-12 | 2017-04-18 | Nike, Inc. | Shirt |
USD811052S1 (en) | 2015-11-19 | 2018-02-27 | Nike, Inc. | Shirt |
US10918149B2 (en) * | 2017-03-09 | 2021-02-16 | Under Armour, Inc. | Article of apparel |
US11812805B2 (en) * | 2020-05-27 | 2023-11-14 | Puma SE | Article of apparel and related manufacturing methods |
CN113425024B (zh) * | 2021-06-30 | 2022-06-03 | 陈观众 | 一种以人体为原型的女装上衣制版方法 |
Family Cites Families (12)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1360715A (en) * | 1918-02-01 | 1920-11-30 | Benjamin A Bittan | Waterproof garment |
US2441909A (en) * | 1946-01-22 | 1948-05-18 | Hollywood Rogue Sportswear Cor | Upper garment |
US2606323A (en) * | 1950-03-15 | 1952-08-12 | Alfred O Gilpin | Sleeve construction |
FR1027631A (fr) * | 1950-11-14 | 1953-05-13 | Vestons d'hommes et vestes de tailleurs de dames en une seule pièce et patrons permettant leur exécution | |
US2798225A (en) * | 1954-10-18 | 1957-07-09 | Harry S Jacobson | Shirt construction |
GB1352132A (en) * | 1970-04-24 | 1974-05-08 | Adhesive Tapes Ltd | Paper product |
GB1281848A (en) * | 1970-11-16 | 1972-07-19 | Abdul Ghani Chaudhry | Shirt |
US3720957A (en) * | 1972-02-14 | 1973-03-20 | Kendall & Co | Conformable disposable garment |
DE2232071C2 (de) * | 1972-06-30 | 1985-09-12 | Otto Kauf AG, Ebnat-Kappel | Oberhemd |
FR2190382A1 (en) * | 1972-06-30 | 1974-02-01 | Kauf Ag Otto | Shirt cutting - with shoulder and sleeves in one section |
FR2425814A1 (fr) * | 1978-05-19 | 1979-12-14 | Boye Paul | Procede de confection de vetements avec ou sans manches |
US4473908A (en) * | 1982-06-08 | 1984-10-02 | Gabriele Knecht | Garment |
-
1983
- 1983-04-27 CH CH225883A patent/CH655430B/de unknown
-
1984
- 1984-04-06 EP EP84810169A patent/EP0128860B1/fr not_active Expired
- 1984-04-06 DE DE8484810169T patent/DE3476510D1/de not_active Expired
- 1984-04-06 AT AT84810169T patent/ATE40511T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1984-04-27 US US06/604,697 patent/US4635301A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1984-04-27 CA CA000453060A patent/CA1229451A/fr not_active Expired
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CH655430B (fr) | 1986-04-30 |
DE3476510D1 (en) | 1989-03-09 |
CA1229451A (fr) | 1987-11-24 |
US4635301A (en) | 1987-01-13 |
EP0128860A1 (fr) | 1984-12-19 |
ATE40511T1 (de) | 1989-02-15 |
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