EP0128860A1 - Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement - Google Patents

Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0128860A1
EP0128860A1 EP84810169A EP84810169A EP0128860A1 EP 0128860 A1 EP0128860 A1 EP 0128860A1 EP 84810169 A EP84810169 A EP 84810169A EP 84810169 A EP84810169 A EP 84810169A EP 0128860 A1 EP0128860 A1 EP 0128860A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sleeves
edges
arm
garment
parts
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP84810169A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0128860B1 (fr
Inventor
Henry Sulser
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Almopa Anstalt
Original Assignee
Almopa Anstalt
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Almopa Anstalt filed Critical Almopa Anstalt
Priority to AT84810169T priority Critical patent/ATE40511T1/de
Publication of EP0128860A1 publication Critical patent/EP0128860A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0128860B1 publication Critical patent/EP0128860B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00—Shirts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an upper body garment with front part, back part and sleeves, a method for producing such a garment and cut fabric parts for such an upper body garment and a template for cutting such an upper body garment.
  • the known upper body garments consist of several parts and require, for example, more than nine operations in their manufacture, without, for example, the attachment of waist widths (eg CH-PS 533 428).
  • the known upper body garments in the form of shirts require above all two-sided closing seams connected to the lower Aennel closing seams, which already requires two operations from the sleeves to the bottom of the hocks.
  • four cut parts are required for one embodiment of the aforementioned prior art, which already require nine operations for sewing. Together with sleeves, there are therefore six parts and eleven work steps. This not only leads to a considerable number of cuts and therefore to a correspondingly high consumption of material, but the shirt also has a correspondingly high number of seams.
  • the respective cuts and thus shapes of the well-known shirt can not be used for all types of fabric. Rather, it is difficult to cut the elastic fabric in other types of fabric with the required Wide to achieve a snug fit.
  • the upper body garment of the type mentioned at the beginning has a single closing seam which runs continuously from one part of the ankle over the back part to the other part of the ankle.
  • the only closing seam and the closing seam guide according to the invention make the side seams otherwise necessary for every upper body garment superfluous. Not only can new manufacturing methods be achieved, but the upper body garment can advantageously consist of two parts. Regardless of the type of fabric, any upper body garment can be made. Above all, the upper body garment according to the invention can be used to achieve a fit that is better adapted to the physique.
  • the new closing seam guide in the upper body garment can consist of an upper part and a lower part.
  • the upper part preferably comprises the two sleeves, the upper arm parts and the upper front and back parts.
  • the two sleeves, the upper arm sections and the upper front and back sections are preferably seamlessly connected and be therefore stand in one piece.
  • the lower part preferably has the lower back part and the front parts, which are preferably also seamlessly connected to one another, so that the lower part also preferably consists of one piece.
  • the upper and lower parts of the sleeves are preferably built into the front part and back part parts of the upper part of the upper arm, which creates a new cut line and means that the new closing seam only requires a single operation.
  • This closing seam guide deviates from the previously known manufacturing processes.
  • the upper part and the lower part of the same are preferably connected to one another only by three seams, i.e. thanks to two composite seams and the only closing seam.
  • the upper body garment according to the invention requires a new construction, in which an elegant fit is preferably created from two parts, with the shape of the cut being advantageously adapted to the body shape.
  • the lower part which is preferably formed in one piece, then has counter-tails which are adapted very precisely and are connected to the upper part's tails by seams.
  • the upper part can have curved curves on both sides, starting from a neckline at the edge abutting the front part, up to a back arm hole, for which corresponding counter-curves are present in the lower part.
  • the tails and the counter-tails correspond or contain, for example, an armpit shaped part and the front parts of the lower part have, for example, part of the neckline.
  • An armpit seam of the Garment according to the invention is preferably part of the connecting seam between the upper part and the lower part and runs in a rounded shape under a part of the support corresponding to the arm ball to the arm or armpit in an arm hole of the back part.
  • a bonded seam can run along the curves and counter-curves.
  • the third seam, ie the closing seam then runs along the sleeves and along the edge of the back section between the top and bottom.
  • the one-piece bottom part can have darts between the front part and the back part.
  • An upper body garment with a front part, back part and sleeves can therefore be produced according to the invention by connecting an upper part which comprises the two sleeves, upper arm width parts and an upper back part to a lower part which comprises the lower back part and front parts.
  • the two sleeves and the upper back t e i l ar ti p e is preferably cut at the upper arm width section and seamlessly connected to the same, so that it is present in one piece shell.
  • the front parts are preferably cut to the back part and seamlessly connected to the same, so that there is preferably an integral lower part.
  • the aforementioned one-piece upper part is therefore connected to the one-piece lower part, also mentioned above.
  • the upper body garment brings a remarkable advantage in terms of manufacture. This is preferably achieved by cutting only an upper and a lower part, ie two large parts.
  • Advantageous embodiments of the method for producing the garment can be achieved with the features of claims 11 to 17.
  • the upper part and the lower part can be sewn along the curly edges of the parts which run between an armpit shaped part and a back arm hole between one side of a neckline and back part edges.
  • a second working eitsgang b can then correspondingly curved and. running edges are sewn along between the other side of the half cutout and the back part edges.
  • the upper part can then be sewn to the lower part by means of the closing seam, which runs along the one sleeve edge, the back edge and the other sleeve edge.
  • the neckline in each case, sewing in the third work step starting from the sleeve that lies on the seam produced first.
  • Darts can also be inserted on both sides at the transition from the back section to the respective front section.
  • a collar can be attached to the neckline and fastenings can be attached to the front and the free ends of the sleeves can be cuffed.
  • the upper body garment according to the invention can be applied to all ready-made garments, e.g. Women's, girl's, men's and boy's clothing can be used. Any substance can be used, e.g. Woven and knitted fabrics or nonwovens, e.g. made of natural and synthetic fibers, or e.g. also leather or synthetic leather.
  • the upper body garment can be in various forms, e.g. as a shirt, blouse, pajamas, trainers, sportswear, e.g. Ski jacket, or denim jacket or rainwear or workwear. The small number of seams is particularly advantageous for rainwear.
  • the workplace is designed appropriately, a considerable saving in working time can be achieved from cutting to final production.
  • the three work steps are preferably necessary, which, depending on the workplace design, e.g. each about 1.5 min, i.e. together can be 4.5 minutes.
  • three grip times of 1 min each i.e. a total of 3 minutes, so the total production time for the garment is preferably 7.5 minutes. Since the other manufacturing processes can be shortened by the invention, the total manufacturing time can be significantly reduced. With the appropriate equipment and space, up to 10 minutes can be saved in the entire production per upper body garment. This clearly shows the advantage of the present invention over known manufacturing methods for upper body garments.
  • a cut fabric part for a garment with a front part, back part and sleeves is further created, which serves as an upper part Includes sleeves, upper arm sections and an upper back section.
  • the sleeves and the upper back part are preferably cut to the upper arm width parts and connected seamlessly to one another, so that the upper part consists of one piece.
  • Further preferred embodiments of the fabric part can be achieved with the features of claims 19 to 21.
  • the upper part preferably has a cutout on its one longer side, which has curved edges on both sides starting from a neckline. The edges preferably run along an armpit part and a back arm hole up to the respective sleeve edges.
  • the other longer side of the top, including the sleeves can have a cut-out edge in the cut fabric part.
  • the edges of the upper part are preferably designed with the cut sleeves for fitting and sewing with correspondingly formed edges of the other parts of the garment.
  • a cut fabric part serving as a lower part for an upper body garment with front part, back part and sleeves comprises a lower back part part with front parts.
  • the front parts are preferably cut to the lower back part and consist seamlessly of one piece therewith, so that a one-piece lower part can be created.
  • this cut fabric part can be connected as a lower part to the other cut fabric part according to the invention, which serves as an upper part.
  • the cut fabric part serving as the lower part for example on the side of each front part to be connected to the other parts of the garment, there is a cutout which starts from a neckline cutout curve-like curved edge.
  • This edge runs along a shaped armpit part and a back arm hole up to a back part edge.
  • the back part edge is preferably between the cutouts and the neck part cutouts are preferably located on the outer free sides of the front parts.
  • the curly edges of the front parts and the back part edge are preferably designed for fitting and sewing with appropriately designed edges of the other parts of the garment.
  • a template for cutting an upper body garment that has front parts, a back part and sleeves.
  • This template has a first part, which includes the sleeves, upper arm parts and an upper back part of an upper part of the garment.
  • the template has a second part, which comprises the back part and the front parts of a lower part of the garment.
  • the parts corresponding to the sleeves, the upper arm parts and the upper back part of the upper part, on the one hand, and the parts corresponding to the lower back part and the front parts of the lower part, on the other hand from one piece.
  • Further advantageous embodiments of the template according to the invention can be achieved with the features of claims 28 to 33.
  • the template according to the invention ensures that a garment can be achieved which consists of two parts which are connected to one another only by three seams.
  • the invention is explained in more detail below with reference to the drawing in one embodiment, which is a template for cutting an upper body garment with a front shows part, back and sleeves in the floor plan.
  • the individual parts of the template correspond to cut fabric parts.
  • part 0 corresponding to the upper part of the upper body clothing item and a part U corresponding to the lower part of the outer clothing item, which are also referred to below as “upper part 0” and “lower part U”.
  • the upper part 0 and the lower part U contain the individual areas and parts listed below:
  • the upper part 0 consists of one piece and encompasses the upper arm width sections 09.09a with the sleeves l, la and the back section Oll cut onto it, so that the sleeves l, la and the back section section O11 are seamlessly connected to the upper arm width sections 09.09a.
  • the elements 03 to 08 or 03a to 08a listed above in tabular form follow this on both sides in a curved manner.
  • the other long side 3 of the upper part 0, including the lower sleeve edges 4, 4a, which correspond to the closing seams 017 and 017a, are designed without cutouts.
  • the sleeves 1, la shown here in abbreviated form are provided with the cut-on sleeve panels 018.018a.
  • the lower part U consists of a back part 5 and front parts 6, 6a cut thereon, so that the back part 5 is seamless with the front parts 6, 6a and consists of one piece with the same.
  • the lower part U is thus in one piece.
  • Upper part 0 of the upper body garment is to be connected, it has an edge corresponding to the back seam Ulla, on both sides of an imaginary back center line RM the parts or elements U8 to U3 or U8a to U3a listed in the table above as curved counterparts.
  • U10 shows e.g. the width of the chest area of the respective front parts 6.6a.
  • Darts U15, U15a are present between the front part 6, 6a and the back part 5.
  • the front parts 6, 6a have crossovers 7, 7a and a flange 8, 8a, to which closing devices for the lower part can be attached.
  • the lines FL in the upper part 0 and in the lower part U indicate the course of the chain, e.g. if there is a tissue. This is decisive for the cutting direction and of crucial importance, since the thread run exactly matches the cutting line. This allows the thread path, i.e. the chain direction, and thus also the weft of the one-piece upper part 0 and the one-piece i. gen bottom part U are exactly matched to each other, so that no constricting seams with folds can occur, which can not be avoided with the previously known cuts and seams.
  • the upper part 0 is cut along the edges 017.011a and 017a as well as on the edges 01 to 08 or Ola to 08a and also on the front edges 9.9a of the sleeves. Then the top is finished.
  • the lower part U is cut to produce a cut fabric part along the edges, the above specified Correspond to parts or elements U2a to U8a, Ulla and U8 to U2. Furthermore, of course, cuts are made at the corresponding edges along the fold and at the fourth edge of the lower part U, which is not shown.
  • intersection or transition point OS between the front neckline 02 and armpit shape 03 of the upper part 0 and the intersection or transition point USa 1 at the transition between the neckline front part U2a and armpit counter-curve U3a are merged according to arrow D, and then along the edges 03 to 08 and U3a to U8a produced by sewing a composite seam.
  • the intersection points OS 2 on the upper part 0 and USa 2 on the lower part U coincide according to arrows E and E.
  • the ankle part 10 is sewn continuously along the upper and lower sleeve closure edges 017, the back closure edges Olla, Ulla and the upper and lower sleeve closure edges 017a up to the sleeve ankle part 10a. There is then a continuous closing seam along the aforementioned edges from the ankle part 10 via the back parts O11 and Ull to the ankle part 10a.
  • the first work step can also be started by, for example, merging the transition points OSa 1 and US 1 according to arrow C and starting with the axially shaped part 03a or axillary counter-curvature U3, starting with the first joint seam.
  • a collar can be attached to the neckline 01, 02, 02a, U2, U2a and closures, such as buttons or buttonholes or zippers, can be attached to the rump.
  • closures such as buttons or buttonholes or zippers, can be attached to the rump.
  • Cuffs can also be attached to the sleeves in the usual way.
  • the template shown in the drawing preferably represents a basic shape of the upper part and the lower part.
  • the axillary form seam can be laid at the level of the clavicle in the front part. Due to the curvatures on the upper part and on the lower part, the armpit seam can run in a rounded shape under the arm ball of the wearer up to the arm cavity and beyond into the back arm hole, which can run deep into the back part shape. This line of intersection results in what is created according to the invention
  • Upper part which is preferably a completely redesigned Has sleeve shape and forms a whole with it.
  • the attached customers for example, have a deep bust in the form of a waist and a large hip. In the simplest of operations, the waist size can be made narrower or wider depending on the wearer's stature.
  • the three seam parts preferably result in a harmonious whole and, for example, also great freedom of movement for the wearer of the item of clothing created according to the invention.
  • exact counter-curves in the upper and lower part and, for example, the longitudinal, transverse and diagonal thread dividers which are preferably precisely matched in both parts, a good fit can be achieved with a comfortable fit of the garment.
  • the template according to the invention can be used, for example, to cut a piece of clothing consisting of two parts, for example in the cutting process eliminating the need to adapt strips or checks, for example because the thread runs during
  • Connecting the upper part and lower part can be exactly matched to each other. This results in many embodiments, e.g. with a smooth back, in contrasting colors, i.e. the upper part has a different color than the lower part, with a back with two side mirror seams in the shape of a waist, which can be cut up to a high maximum width, or the like.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
EP84810169A 1983-04-27 1984-04-06 Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement Expired EP0128860B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT84810169T ATE40511T1 (de) 1983-04-27 1984-04-06 Oberkoerperbekleidungsstueck, verfahren zur herstellung eines oberkoerperbekleidungsstueckes, geschnittene stoffteile fuer ein oberkoerperbekleidungsstueck und schablone zum zuschneiden eines oberkoerperbekleidungsstueckes.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH2258/83 1983-04-27
CH225883A CH655430B (fr) 1983-04-27 1983-04-27

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0128860A1 true EP0128860A1 (fr) 1984-12-19
EP0128860B1 EP0128860B1 (fr) 1989-02-01

Family

ID=4229572

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP84810169A Expired EP0128860B1 (fr) 1983-04-27 1984-04-06 Vêtement couvrant la partie supérieure du corps, procédé de fabrication d'un tel vêtement, morceaux d'étoffe découpés pour ce vêtement et patron pour couper un tel vêtement

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US4635301A (fr)
EP (1) EP0128860B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE40511T1 (fr)
CA (1) CA1229451A (fr)
CH (1) CH655430B (fr)
DE (1) DE3476510D1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113425024A (zh) * 2021-06-30 2021-09-24 陈观众 一种以人体为原型的女装上衣制版方法

Families Citing this family (10)

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US4981307A (en) * 1988-02-18 1991-01-01 Walsh Andrew C Suspension harness/body jacket arrangement
US6474367B1 (en) * 1998-09-21 2002-11-05 Georgia Tech Research Corp. Full-fashioned garment in a fabric and optionally having intelligence capability
US20080078009A1 (en) * 2006-10-02 2008-04-03 Longworth Industries, Inc. Shirt construction
KR101536139B1 (ko) * 2013-09-05 2015-07-13 연세대학교 산학협력단 직물전극 키트 및 이를 장착한 동잡음 최소화 의복
EP3140442A4 (fr) * 2014-05-09 2018-01-24 The North Face Apparel Corp. Structure de tissu tissé unitaire comprenant de multiples zones
EP3300475A4 (fr) 2015-04-30 2019-04-10 The North Face Apparel Corp. Structures de déflecteurs destinées à des matériaux de garnissage isolant
USD783932S1 (en) 2015-06-12 2017-04-18 Nike, Inc. Shirt
USD811052S1 (en) 2015-11-19 2018-02-27 Nike, Inc. Shirt
US10918149B2 (en) * 2017-03-09 2021-02-16 Under Armour, Inc. Article of apparel
US11812805B2 (en) * 2020-05-27 2023-11-14 Puma SE Article of apparel and related manufacturing methods

Citations (7)

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US1360715A (en) * 1918-02-01 1920-11-30 Benjamin A Bittan Waterproof garment
US2441909A (en) * 1946-01-22 1948-05-18 Hollywood Rogue Sportswear Cor Upper garment
US2606323A (en) * 1950-03-15 1952-08-12 Alfred O Gilpin Sleeve construction
US2798225A (en) * 1954-10-18 1957-07-09 Harry S Jacobson Shirt construction
GB1281848A (en) * 1970-11-16 1972-07-19 Abdul Ghani Chaudhry Shirt
FR2190382A1 (en) * 1972-06-30 1974-02-01 Kauf Ag Otto Shirt cutting - with shoulder and sleeves in one section
FR2425814A1 (fr) * 1978-05-19 1979-12-14 Boye Paul Procede de confection de vetements avec ou sans manches

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FR1027631A (fr) * 1950-11-14 1953-05-13 Vestons d'hommes et vestes de tailleurs de dames en une seule pièce et patrons permettant leur exécution
GB1352132A (en) * 1970-04-24 1974-05-08 Adhesive Tapes Ltd Paper product
US3720957A (en) * 1972-02-14 1973-03-20 Kendall & Co Conformable disposable garment
DE2232071C2 (de) * 1972-06-30 1985-09-12 Otto Kauf AG, Ebnat-Kappel Oberhemd
US4473908A (en) * 1982-06-08 1984-10-02 Gabriele Knecht Garment

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1360715A (en) * 1918-02-01 1920-11-30 Benjamin A Bittan Waterproof garment
US2441909A (en) * 1946-01-22 1948-05-18 Hollywood Rogue Sportswear Cor Upper garment
US2606323A (en) * 1950-03-15 1952-08-12 Alfred O Gilpin Sleeve construction
US2798225A (en) * 1954-10-18 1957-07-09 Harry S Jacobson Shirt construction
GB1281848A (en) * 1970-11-16 1972-07-19 Abdul Ghani Chaudhry Shirt
FR2190382A1 (en) * 1972-06-30 1974-02-01 Kauf Ag Otto Shirt cutting - with shoulder and sleeves in one section
FR2425814A1 (fr) * 1978-05-19 1979-12-14 Boye Paul Procede de confection de vetements avec ou sans manches

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113425024A (zh) * 2021-06-30 2021-09-24 陈观众 一种以人体为原型的女装上衣制版方法
CN113425024B (zh) * 2021-06-30 2022-06-03 陈观众 一种以人体为原型的女装上衣制版方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE3476510D1 (en) 1989-03-09
US4635301A (en) 1987-01-13
ATE40511T1 (de) 1989-02-15
CH655430B (fr) 1986-04-30
EP0128860B1 (fr) 1989-02-01
CA1229451A (fr) 1987-11-24

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