CN1973081B - 内外层异性纯棉快干织物及其生产方法 - Google Patents

内外层异性纯棉快干织物及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN1973081B
CN1973081B CN2005800012760A CN200580001276A CN1973081B CN 1973081 B CN1973081 B CN 1973081B CN 2005800012760 A CN2005800012760 A CN 2005800012760A CN 200580001276 A CN200580001276 A CN 200580001276A CN 1973081 B CN1973081 B CN 1973081B
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production method
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CN1973081A (zh
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张玉高
肖军
周立明
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种内外层异性纯棉织物及其生产方法。该织物的内层基本上为纯棉疏水纱形成的疏水层，外层基本上为纯棉亲水纱形成的亲水层，并且该织物可对水分实现单向传输。该织物的生产方法主要是分别对外层纯棉棉纱进行亲水性处理和疏水性处理，得到亲水处理纱线和疏水处理纱线；然后对两种纱线通过一定的编织工艺进行编织，而得到内外层具有亲水、疏水性能差异的织物，兼具舒适性与排汗快干的功能。

Description

内外层异性纯棉快干织物及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种纯棉织物及其生产方法，特别是指一种双层异性纯棉快干织物及其生产方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的不断提高和制衣业的发展，消费者对衣物的舒适性、功能性以及外观和手感等各方面的追求越来越高。因此，生产既舒适又具有一定功能性的织物是今后纺织工业的发展趋势。
天然纤维织物，特别是纯棉面料，其舒适性和环保性是非常受消费者青睐的。纯棉纤维一般具有较好的吸湿性，但是在吸湿之后就会贴身，使穿着者感到不舒适。因此生产具有吸湿排汗和快干功能、穿着舒适、干爽、手感好的织物具有良好的实用性。
目前市场上的吸湿排汗针织物主要有两类：
一类是采用特殊的异形纤维编织而成，如具有导管的涤纶纤维，常见的有DUPONT公司的COOLMAX、中国台湾的COOLPLUS等。这些纤维是一些功能性化学纤维，具有独特的四沟槽设计，这些沟槽能够迅速的将汗水、湿气运送到织物的外面，因此具有良好的吸湿排汗性能。但是采用这类功能性纤维生产的针织物有一定的缺点：这类纤维的原理是在纤维上设计出四沟槽，利用毛细管效应达到吸湿排汗的效果，一旦这些沟槽被堵塞，势必会影响到它的吸湿导汗性能。实际上这些纤维在染色时采用分散染料100-130℃染色，高温下纤维中的一些低聚物会游离出来并集结在纤维上而堵塞沟槽，导致吸湿导汗性能下降；另外，这类功能纤维属于化纤，因此100％的这种功能纤维织成的织物与棉织物相比就没有棉的柔软手感，若采用由这种功能纤维与棉纤维加工的混纺纱，则存在毛羽多、色牢度不好等缺点，做成的针织物普遍存在经过多次家庭洗涤后毛羽偏多、褪色明显，尤其是扁机领袖，洗后形变较大，且洗涤后吸湿排汗性能也有所下降。
而另一类是采用化纤与棉混纺或混织来达到提高织物的吸湿和干爽的能力，实际应用效果显示，这类织物更多强调吸湿的能力，而没有注重排汗快干的性能，另一方面这类织物同样需要采用化纤材料，其舒适性和环保性较低。
因此，生产具有排汗快干功能、穿着舒适、干爽、手感好而且具有良好外观和耐洗性能的纯棉织物势在必行。
发明内容
本发明提供了一种内外层异性纯棉快干织物，通过织物内外层不同性能的结合，既具有化纤材料利于排汗快干的优点，又保持纯棉织物穿着舒适、手感和外观良好的特点，并且耐洗快干。
为达到上述目的，本发明提供的织物，是一种内外层异性纯棉织物，该织物的内层基本上为由疏水性纯棉纱线形成的疏水层，外层基本上为亲水性纯棉纱线形成的亲水层，并且该织物可对水分实现单向传输。
本发明所提供的上述内外层异性纯棉快干织物与现有技术产品相比，最大的特点是同一织物的内外层具有相异性功能，即，内层疏水，外层亲水，经适当的编织而成为一种可实现水分单向传输的新型纯棉织物。所以，本发明所说的内外层可以是单层织物的内外层，也可以是双面结构织物的内外层。
根据本发明的优选方案，所述纯棉织物的疏水性内层和亲水性外层是分别利用经过疏水处理和亲水处理的纯棉纱线编织而形成的。内层基本上为经过疏水性处理的疏水纯棉纱线，具有良好的透湿性和透气性；而外层为经过亲水性处理的亲水纯棉纱线，吸水性极佳，与内层形成内外层差，给水份传递提供动力，内层湿气可以很快渗透到外层，使内层保持干燥，从而具有排汗快于的功能。其中，形成疏水内层的纱线含有60％-100％的疏水处理纱线和0-40％的亲水处理纱线，形成亲水外层的纱线为100％的亲水处理纱线。
在具体实施时，所述疏水层可以完全由疏水性纱线形成，也可以根据不同的织物结构在疏水纱线中适当地加入少量亲水性纱线来保证水分可以从疏水面被吸收，加入量一般应控制在不高于40％为好，例如10-40％。这样，可以使水分在疏水内层被快速吸收并扩散到织物亲水外层，同时不会影响织物内外层异性的特点。
本发明的织物可以是采用任何已知的、可以形成这种内外层异性功能，并使水分可被单向传输的编织方法编造而成，例如，该织物可为所述纯棉棉纱编织而成的罗纹织物(Rib Fabric)、双面结构织物(Double Knit DoubleFace Fabric)、罗纹提花织物、Plated平纹/珠地织物。。
所以，本发明提供了一种采用100％纯棉材料制造而成的兼具排汗快干功能与舒适性于一体的纯棉快干织物，而且其具有很好的手感和优良的穿着舒适性。
另一方面，本发明还提供了所述内外层异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法，通过独特的处理工艺对棉纱进行不同的预处理，使编织出的纯棉织物的内外层分别具有相异性的功能，达到水分单向传输，穿着舒适、利于排汗快干的特殊功效。
本发明提供的生产内外层异性纯棉快干织物的方法，其步骤包括：对外层纯棉纱线进行亲水性处理，得到亲水处理纱线；对内层纯棉纱线进行疏水性处理，得到疏水处理纱线；然后通过编织，成为可单向传输水分的、内外层具有性能差异的织物。
具体地，本发明提供的方法中，所述对棉纱的亲水性处理工艺主要包括以下工序：染纱、浴中过亲水性软油(通常简称为“浴中过软”)和烘干。
1)上述工序中，染纱即为公知的对纱线进行煮练、染色、皂洗、固色。
2)所述浴中过亲水性软油工序即对棉纱采用亲水性柔软剂(或称亲水性软油)进行处理，本发明优选采用选自脂肪胺、脂肪胺的衍生物、有机硅类、或者它们的复合体的亲水性柔软剂处理棉纱。采用的有机硅柔软剂可以为聚醚改性的环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷聚合的有机硅柔软剂。柔软剂用量为每升处理液1-10g，所述含柔软剂的处理液与所处理的棉纱之间的浴比一般是在1∶5至1∶10之间，处理时间为10-50分钟，处理温度为30-100℃。
本发明选用的上述柔软剂由于含有亲水性基团，可与水分子形成氢键结合，因此，对水的润湿性能极佳。同时为提高渗透性能，可在处理液中添加聚氧乙烯醚类化合物例如乙基芳香脂肪醚类的表面活性剂、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚型非离子表面活性剂等作为渗透剂，所述渗透剂在处理液中的用量一般为1-5g/L。
在处理过程中不可令棉纱沾污其他类型的软油，并应当及时清洗相关设备。
3)对处理后的棉纱利用本领域中常见的烘干设备例如高频烘干机进行烘干，烘干温度约为80-150℃。
本发明的生产方法中，所述对棉纱的疏水性处理工艺包括染纱、净洗、过疏水软油和烘干。
同样，上述工序中，染纱即为公知的对棉纱进行煮练、染色、皂洗、固色等工艺。
所述净洗工序优选在50-100℃下进行，对应温度不同可采用时间5-60分钟。本发明中所采用的净洗剂可以是本领域中的普通净洗剂，例如，芳香族磺酸类净洗剂等；净洗剂的用量一般为0.5-10g/L；
优选地，过疏水软油工序的温度为40-100℃，时间5-60分钟，疏水软油用量1-100g/L。
本发明选用的疏水软油可以选自羟甲基脂肪酸类、有机硅类或含氟树脂类疏水软油等。具体地，应用于本发明的所述疏水软油可选自：羟甲基硬脂酸酰胺、醚化多羟基三聚氰胺、含氢硅油乳液或有机氟乳液。其中，所述羟甲基脂肪酸类疏水软油优选为长链羟甲基脂肪酸酰胺类，其碳链的长度优选为14-28个碳；所述含氢硅油乳液可以是阳离子硅系的含氢硅油乳液，也可以是带活性基团的聚二甲基硅氧烷含氢硅油乳液或甲基含氢硅油乳液等；所述有机氟乳液选自含氟烷基丙烯酸酯共聚乳液或氟碳类与碳氢类的协同混合物。
经疏水软油处理的棉纱直接脱水后烘干，高频烘干温度为100-180℃。
利用上述方法对纯棉纱线分别进行亲水、疏水性处理后，即可得到本发明的亲水处理纱线和疏水处理纱线。
根据本发明的方案，经上述处理后，利用亲水处理的纯棉纱线编织外层，疏水处理的纯棉纱线编织内层(该内层应以疏水性为主，也可包括少量亲水纱)，完成本发明的内外层基本上具有不同性能，兼具舒适性与排汗快干功能于一体的纯棉织物。编织方法可以选自罗纹织法、双面织法、罗纹提花织法、Plated平纹/珠地织法等，根据需要，可以编织成单层结构(例如单层Plated结构)的织物，其内层表面为或基本上为疏水处理纯棉纱线，外层表面为亲水处理纯棉纱线；也可以编织成双面结构(double face结构)的织物，其内层为或基本上为疏水处理纱线，外层为亲水处理纱线。整个织物同时具有亲水和疏水的性能，使水分实现单向传输。而具体编织技术为本领域普遍采用的公知技术，在此不再赘述。
为进一步提升本发明的产品的品质，可对其进行适当的后处理工序，例如，可以选择性地进行丝光、酶洗、树脂整理等工序，以使本发明的织物在具有吸湿快干性能的同时，具有良好的形态稳定性，和尺寸稳定性、不起毛球等特点。
其中，所述树脂整理可以是采用树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液对织物或衣物进行定型整理。例如，在该混合液中，所述的树脂整理剂可以选用二羟甲基乙烯脲(DMEU)，二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)，二羟甲基丙烯脲(DMPU)及二羟基甲基三嗪酮(DMT)，改性N-甲基二羟基乙基脲等类的化合物，及其改性物例如改性二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲树脂等，其用量一般约为20-150g/L混合液；所述催化剂可以是一些镁盐、硝酸盐、氟硼锌盐等，其用量一般约为5-30g/L混合液；所述渗透剂可以是聚氧乙烯醚类的化合物例如乙基芳香脂肪醚类的表面活性剂、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚型非离子表面活性剂，其用量一般约为0.5-4g/L混合液。使用该混合液进行定型整理的温度一般是在140-180℃，定型整理时间约1-4分钟即可。
通过上述树脂整理或丝光、酶洗等的工艺方法可以保持织物的洗后外观，表面光洁，从而提高织物的外观效果和耐洗性能。
目前生产吸湿排汗织物的技术都是基于织物的整理工艺，不能实现织物内外层的性能差异，达不到单向水分传输的功能，而且现有技术中的快干织物主要是见诸于化纤、棉化纤混纺等产品，未见有全棉产品的报道。本发明的织物通过内外层异性的特点，真正实现了全棉织物对水分或者汗液的单向传输，达到穿着干爽、快干的效果。特别是，本发明利用特殊的棉纱处理工艺，并选用适当的编织工艺，可使同一织物同时具备亲水与疏水两种相异性功能(外层是完全亲水的、吸湿的，利于水分的吸收；而内层是疏水的，将水分导出使织物保持干爽)，实现了织物内外层的差异，从而确保达到单向水分传输的功能，并可以保证织好的布(织物)在后续加工工艺(尤其是洗水、丝光、树脂整理等工艺)及成衣家庭洗涤过程不互相影响并具有一定的耐洗涤性能。
综上所述，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
1、采用不同的处理方法对纯棉纱线分别进行亲水性处理和疏水性处理，得到两种不同性质的纱线，将两种纱线按照一定的编织工艺进行织布，得到的织物内层基本上为疏水纯棉纱线形成，具有良好的透湿性和透气性，外层为亲水纯棉纱线形成，吸水性极佳，与内层形成内外层差，给水份传递提供动力，水分或汗液可以很快从内层传输到外层，使内层保持干爽，从而达到排汗快干的功能。
2、织物采用100％纯棉面料，经过整理具有很好的手感，因而具有优良的服用舒适性。
3、选用耐洗性好的亲水性柔软剂和疏水软油，从而保证水分单向传输功能的耐久性。本发明中的织物按照AATCC143洗涤方法经过10次或以上的家庭洗涤后，仍具有优良的单向水分传输和快干功能。
4、具有极好的耐洗性能，按照AATCC143洗涤方法可以耐10次以上家庭洗涤(一般现有产品的耐洗性能的标准是要求耐洗涤5次)，仍可以保持良好的服用性能，而且洗后的褪色也很轻微。与现有技术相比，本发明的织物经过10次洗涤后的颜色变化(褪色)可以保持在3.5级以上(以AATCC143方法测试)。
具体实施方式
以下结合具体实施例详细说明本发明的方案及所具有效果，但不能构成对本发明实施范围的任何限定。
实施例一：60s/2双面结构(Double Knit double face)织物
本实施例中的60s/2双面结构织物的生产方法如下：
1、纯棉纱线处理：
a.棉纱的亲水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分，煮练后的棉纱应具有良好的亲水性；
2)采用聚醚改性的环氧乙烷有机硅柔软剂Magnasoft HWS过亲水性软油，用量4g/L，处理时间为30分钟，处理温度30℃，浴比1∶10左右，注意不可沾污其他类型的软油，清洗相关设备；；
3)处理后的棉纱经经高频烘干机120℃烘干。
b.棉纱的疏水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在50℃下进行，净洗时间30分钟，净洗剂RF 8g/L；
3)过疏水软油，温度90℃，时间8分钟，采用羟甲基三嗪型疏水软油，用量约80g/L处理液；
3)过完疏水软油的棉纱直接脱水，高频烘干机150℃烘干。
2、针织工艺
利用上述处理后的棉纱按照双面布织法编织成双层结构的纯棉织物，其中内层为疏水处理纱线编织的疏水层，而外层为亲水处理纱线编织的亲水层。
3、定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
其中，树脂整理剂为二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)CP，用量120g/L；催化剂为MgCl2，用量24g/L；渗透剂为PBN，用量4g/L。
定型整理的温度是在140℃。
经过上述步骤，得到本实施例的60s/2双面结构织物，按照M&S P136B方法对其性能进行测试，结果记录于下表1：
表1：
Figure FW00000037310510000200081
上表数据显示，本发明的双面异性纯棉快干织物的水分蒸发速率大大高于普通纯棉织物。从而当人体出汗时，汗液可以快速被吸收并传输到织物外表面而蒸发。
实施例二：60s/2罗纹提花织物
本实施例中的60s/2罗纹提花织物的生产方法如下：
1、棉纱的处理：
a.纯棉纱的亲水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)高级脂肪胺衍生物与有机硅复合体柔软剂，用量8g/L，处理时间为10分钟，处理温度40℃；注意不可沾污其他类型尤其是疏水性软油，清洗相关设备；
3)处理后的棉纱利用高频烘干机100℃烘干。
b.纯棉纱的疏水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在90℃下进行，净洗时间8分钟，净洗剂RF5g/L；
3)过疏水软油温度70℃，时间20分钟，疏水软油采用氟硅烷类(杜邦公司的Teflon)，每升处理液中疏水软油的用量为20g左右；
4)过完疏水软油直接脱水，高频烘干机烘干，温度约120℃。
2、针织工艺    
利用上述处理后的棉纱按照罗纹提花织法编织成双层结构的纯棉织物，内层为疏水处理纱线编织的疏水层，外层为亲水处理纱线编织的亲水层。
3、定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
其中，树脂整理剂采用改性2D树脂FR-Cl，80g/L；催化剂MgCl2，用量约16g/L；渗透剂66-HK，2g/L。
定型整理的温度是在180℃左右。
经过上述步骤，得到本实施例的60s/2罗纹提花织物，按照M&S P136B方法对其性能进行测试，结果记录于下表2：
表2：
Figure FW00000037310510000200101
上表数据显示，本实施例的内外层异性纯棉快干织物的水分蒸发速率大大高于普通纯棉织物。从而当人体出汗时，汗液可以快速被吸收并传输到织物外表面而蒸发。
实施例三：60s/2Plated平纹/珠地织物
本实施例的60s/2Plated平纹/珠地织物的生产方法如下：
1、棉纱处理：
a.亲水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)亲水性有机硅柔软剂A15(产自祯祥化学工业上海有限公司)，用量2g/L，处理时间为40分钟，温度50℃；注意不可沾污其他软油，清洗相关设备；
3)处理后的棉纱利用高频烘干机烘干，温度约140℃。
b.疏水处理染纱工艺为：
煮练→染色→皂洗、固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在70℃下进行，净洗时间15分钟，净洗液中的净洗剂采用RF，用量约2g/L；
3)过疏水软油温度50℃，时间40分钟，疏水软油为纳米级含氟聚合物，用量约5g/L处理液；
4)过完疏水软油后的棉纱直接脱水，采用高频烘干机烘干，烘干温度约160℃。
2、针织工艺
采用Plated平纹/珠地织法，内层为疏水处理纱线(或者加入少量亲水纱线)，外层为亲水处理纱线，编织成单面结构而内外层异性的纯棉织物。
3、定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
其中，树脂整理剂选用二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)CP，用量约30g/L；催化剂MgCl2，用量约6g/L；渗透剂采用脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚型非离子表面活性剂66-HK，用量约2g/L。
定型整理的温度约160℃。
经过上述步骤，得到本实施例的60s/2Plated平纹或珠地织物，按照M&S P136B方法对其性能进行测试，结果记录于下表3：
表3：
Figure FW00000037310510000200111
Figure FW00000037310510000200121
上表数据显示，本实施例的内外层异性纯棉快干织物的水分蒸发速率大大高于普通纯棉织物。从而当人体出汗时，汗液可以快速被吸收并传输到织物外表面而蒸发。
根据本发明的具体实施方案，可行的生产内外层异性的耐洗纯棉快干针织物的方法还可以选择性的包括如下步骤：(1)纱线丝光；(2)纱线煮练；(3)酶处理；(4)特殊染纱；(5)特殊织造；(6)布丝光；(7)定型后整；(8)制衣等等。其中，选用丝光、酶洗、树脂整理等工艺的方法可保持织物的洗后外观表面光洁，从而提高织物的外观效果和耐洗性能。

Claims (16)

1.一种内外层异性纯棉快干织物，该织物的内层是疏水层，形成疏水层的纱线为60％～100％的疏水处理纱线和0％～40％的亲水处理纱线，该织物外层是亲水层，且形成亲水层的纱线为100％亲水处理纱线，并且该织物可对水分实现单向传输。
2.权利要求1所述的内外层异性纯棉快干织物，其中，该织物为采用所述纯棉棉纱编织而成的双面结构针织物或添纱平纹/珠地织物。
3.一种纯棉衣物，是利用权利要求1或2所述内外层异性纯棉快干织物加工而成。
4.如权利要求1或2所述的内外层异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法，其包括步骤：对纯棉棉纱分别进行亲水性处理和疏水性处理，得到亲水处理纱线和疏水处理纱线；然后将含有60％～100％的疏水处理纱线和0％～40％的亲水处理纱线的纱线作为疏水层纱线，亲水处理纱线作为亲水层纱线，通过编织成为可单向传输水分的内外层异性纯棉快干织物。
5.权利要求4所述的生产方法，其中，所述对棉纱的亲水性处理过程包括染纱、浴中过亲水软油和烘干。
6.权利要求5所述的生产方法，其中，所述浴中过亲水软油工序是采用亲水性柔软剂处理棉纱，该亲水性柔软剂选自脂肪胺、有机硅类、或者它们的复合体。
7.权利要求6所述的生产方法，其中，采用的有机硅柔软剂为聚醚改性的环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷聚合的有机硅类亲水性柔软剂，其用量为1-10g/L，处理时间为10-50分钟，处理温度为30-100℃。
8.权利要求5所述的生产方法，其中，经亲水软油处理后的棉纱在80-150℃烘干。
9.权利要求4所述的生产方法，其中，所述对棉纱的疏水性处理工艺包括染纱、净洗、过疏水软油和烘干。
10.权利要求9所述的生产方法，其中，所述过疏水软油工序的温度为40-100℃，时间5-60分钟，疏水软油用量1-100g/L。
11.权利要求9所述的生产方法，其中，所述疏水软油选自羟甲基脂肪酸、有机硅类或含氟树脂类疏水软油。
12.权利要求9所述的生产方法，其中，所述疏水软油选自：羟甲基硬脂酸酰胺、醚化多羟基三聚氰胺、含氢硅油乳液、有机氟乳液。
13.权利要求12所述的生产方法，其中，含氢硅油乳液选自阳离子硅系的含氢硅油乳液、带活性基团的聚二甲基硅氧烷含氢硅油乳液或甲基含氢硅油乳液；有机氟乳液选自含氟烷基丙烯酸酯共聚乳液或氟碳类与碳氢类的协同混合物。
14.权利要求9所述的生产方法，其中，疏水软油处理的棉纱直接脱水后烘干，烘干温度为100-180℃。
15.权利要求4所述的生产方法，其中，所述编织方法选自罗纹织法、双面织法、罗纹提花织法、添纱平纹织法或添纱珠地织法。
16.权利要求4所述的生产方法，其中，对于编织好的织物进一步实施丝光、酶洗、树脂整理和制衣的后处理工序。
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