CN113668119B - 一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法 - Google Patents

一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN113668119B
CN113668119B CN202110882171.1A CN202110882171A CN113668119B CN 113668119 B CN113668119 B CN 113668119B CN 202110882171 A CN202110882171 A CN 202110882171A CN 113668119 B CN113668119 B CN 113668119B
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朱晓英
郑聪
黄友洪
黄敏
张晓东
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Zhejiang Xinlan Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

本申请提供一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,属于机织织物技术领域。以赛络纺棉纱、赛络纺棉竹节纱两种为经纱原料,分别置于染液中进行染色,染液中包含有浓度为100‑180g/L的烧碱、浓度为70‑120g/L的2BR水剂黑染料、浓度为3‑10g/L的丝光渗透剂、浓度为70‑130g/L的硫化碱,染色温度为70‑98℃,染色时长为6‑60s,得到两种黑色纱线,进行织造,织造形成双层提花组织。采用本申请加工方法得到的面料,颜色乌黑发亮,干摩擦系数能达4级,湿摩擦系数为1‑2级,弹力拉伸可以达到50%以上,既有保暖功能,又有磨毛效果,是一款非常舒适的高弹保暖面料。

Description

一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法
技术领域
本申请涉及一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,属于机织织物技术领域。
背景技术
牛仔面料在市场中应用较为广泛,从经典的蓝色经纱与本白为啥经上下浮沉交织成织物,到逐渐发展为多元化的牛仔服装,如黑色、彩色牛仔。
传统黑色牛仔是经纱采用硫化染料染色,硫化黑、硫化碱、氢氧化钠按照一定比例形成染液进行染色。由于硫化黑自身特性,其不溶于水,只能被还原成隐色体后上染,因此需要加入还原剂硫化碱,硫化黑染料被还原后,经浸轧处理,在空气中自然氧化,达到上色效果。但染料与纤维得劲结合能力弱,染料仅在纤维表面堆积,造成纱线浮色严重,色牢度不高,这限制了牛仔服装的发展。
发明内容
有鉴于此,本申请提供一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,所制得的牛仔面料不仅颜色乌黑发亮,且摩擦牢度得到提高,面料正面手感柔软、反面光滑,具有高弹与保暖双重效果。
具体地,本申请是通过以下方案实现的:
一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)染色:以赛络纺棉纱、赛络纺棉竹节纱两种为经纱原料,分别置于染液中进行染色,染色温度为70-98℃,染色时长为6-60s,得到两种黑色纱线;所述染液中包含有浓度为100-180g/L的烧碱、浓度为70-120g/L的2BR水剂黑染料、浓度为3-10g/L的丝光渗透剂、浓度为70-130g/L的硫化碱;
(2)织造:以步骤(1)染色形成的两种黑色纱线为经纱,火山岩保暖纤维和高F低弹涤纶丝为纬纱进行织造,织造形成双层提花组织,织造原料以棉纤维或粘胶纤维为主,实现牛仔风格的获取,经纱选用棉纱可满足牛仔面料靛蓝染色需要,纬纱选用火山岩保暖纤维和高F低弹涤纶丝则可以实现高保暖效果,火山岩本身具有超强蓄热能力,有效升温保暖,而高F低弹涤纶丝也能有效增强面料保温效果,面料手感更接近起绒效果,织造参数具体设置如下:
①穿综参数:
边:1.2*60,
地:3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14;
②提综参数:
Figure BDA0003192447240000021
(3)后整理。
进一步的,作为优选:
步骤(1)的染液中,2BR水剂黑染料与硫化碱的浓度比为1:1。
步骤(1)中,染色前进行渗透处理,渗透处理中渗透剂浓度为3-10g/L。更优选的:渗透剂为丝光渗透剂;渗透处理后进行常温水洗。
步骤(1)中,染色后还包括有水洗工序,水洗温度为40-80℃,水洗时长为30-40min。
步骤(1)中,染色后还包括有水洗工序,水洗温度为40-80℃,水洗时长为30-40min,洗去浮色,提高面料沾色色牢度,水温低于40℃时,浮色去除效果不好,高于80℃则会使已上色的染料剥落,影响颜色深浅及色光。
步骤(2)中,纬纱用300D高F能使反面手感柔软,贴肤,但F数越高织造越困难,我们通过在高F低弹涤纶丝对应的纬纱储纬器里用钢圈加润滑油3-15g/min,使高F的单丝互相抱合,不松散,同时加大纬纱张力3.5-5cN,避免箭头打毛现象。
步骤(2)中,织造的织机参数设置如下:
机型:OPTI 后梁高度:9CM 停经架高度:-2CM
车速:560/分 后梁深度:4CM 停经架深度:2CM
张力:3.0/KN 罗拉位置:2CM 棕平时间:309°
多臂开口时间:24° 棕框高度:14.8CM
该织机参数中,张力主要是控制布面经纱的松紧,开口时间主要是调节经纱摩擦,后梁高度、后梁深度、停经架高度、停经架深度主要根据经纱的粗细调整经纱的震动,综平时间主要根据坯布门幅来调节,棕框高度的调整直接影响到布面的中边色差、方眼、纬缩等疵点。
步骤(3)中,后整理包括退浆和干缩处理,工序具体为:烧毛-退浆(优选采用无张力退浆,堆置,通过堆置布封自然收缩效果好,对弹力品种既能让纬向缩率小,还能增加拉伸)-水洗-烘干-预缩;烧毛正面烧一道,反面不烧毛,退浆工序中的退浆液包括退浆酶4-10g/L、渗透剂1-7g/L,水洗温度40-70℃,经过6个缸水洗六道,预缩中的橡毯温度控制为130-165℃,本工序使布面手感柔软,平整光滑,纹路清晰。
具体实施方式
(1)染色工艺如下:
用料:烧碱,2BR水剂黑染料,丝光渗透剂,硫化碱。
车速:20米/分,流量:12.5秒/L。
流程:1个缸渗透处理(渗透剂用量5g/L)-1个缸常温水洗-3个缸染黑色(染液构成为:烧碱,2BR水剂黑染料,硫化碱,丝光渗透剂,其中,2BR水剂黑染料:硫化碱=1:1,烧碱浓度为150g/L,2BR水剂黑染料浓度为100g/L,丝光渗透剂浓度为8g/L,硫化碱浓度为100g/L,染色温度为95℃)-1个缸80℃热水洗40min-1个缸(常温常规固色处理,加固色剂和消碱剂,消碱剂主要成分为有机羧酸、有机多元酸和封端为水解多糖、多元醇化合物,如PAA(丙稀酸)、HPMA(聚马来酸酐)磺酸盐三元共聚物,依糖酸、琥珀酸等)-1个缸常温水洗。
上述方案中,在染色时加入丝光渗透剂、耐碱,可以提高渗透性,能提高色牢度;染色过程中,将染色温度适宜控制在70-98℃这样的较高范围,可赋予面料高色牢度,上染颜色更深,避免温度过低引起的掉色、色牢度差等问题。
规格:赛络纺棉纱+赛络纺棉竹节纱*火山岩保暖纤维(18/105D氨纶包芯纱)+高F低弹涤纶丝(300D/576f)。
(2)织造:
织造形成双层提花组织,包括穿综和提综。
穿综参数为:
边:1.2*60;
地:3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14。
提综参数/纹版图设置如表1所示。
表1:提综参数表
Figure BDA0003192447240000051
成品门幅:58/60英寸,克重:11.8OZ,经纬密:100*88,成份:C59/T37火山岩/R2/S2,缩率:经向2-4%,纬向14-16%。
织机参数如表2所示。
表2:织机参数表
机型:OPTI 后梁高度:9CM 停经架高度:-2CM
车速:560/分 后梁深度:4CM 停经架深度:2CM
张力:3.0/KN 罗拉位置:2CM 棕平时间:309°
多臂开口时间:24° 棕框高度:14.8CM
(3)后整理
本实施例中,后整理工序为:烧毛-退浆-堆置-水洗-烘干-预缩。
①烧毛:正面贴烘筒烧一道,反面不烧毛;
②退浆:采用退浆液处理,退浆液包括退浆酶8g/L和渗透剂4g/L;
③堆置:布封自然收缩效果好,对弹力品种既能让纬向缩率小,还能增加拉伸;
④水洗:6个缸,60℃水洗;
⑤烘干;
⑥预缩:橡毯温度为150℃。
常规后整理一般是采用普通预缩、紧式退浆两种,普通预缩主要烧毛-过水-烘干-预缩,缺点布面手感太硬,不柔软,纹路不清晰;紧式退浆主要烧毛-退浆-过水-烘干-预缩,带张力,弹力布收缩效果不佳,布封偏宽,纬向缩率不好控制。而采用上述后整理工序可使布面手感柔软,平整光滑,纹路清晰。
采用上述方法所得到的牛仔面料,具有以下特点:
(1)颜色上:采用特黑水剂染料加丝光渗透剂使得颜色乌黑发亮,同时能提高摩擦牢度,干摩擦系数能达4级,湿摩擦系数为1-2级。
(2)组织上:采用双层小提花组织,并在原有的常规组织上改新,纬纱采用火山岩保暖纤维和高F低弹涤纶丝,再通过后处理退浆工艺,使得面料手感柔软,弹力拉伸可以达到50%以上,反面光滑,做出的裤子穿着帖肤舒适,既有保暖功能,通过双层提花又有磨毛效果,是一款非常舒适的高弹保暖面料。

Claims (3)

1.一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
(1)染色:以赛络纺棉纱、赛络纺棉竹节纱两种为经纱原料,先进行渗透处理,渗透处理中渗透剂浓度为3-10g/L,渗透剂为丝光渗透剂,渗透处理后进行常温水洗再分别置于染液中进行染色,染色温度为70-98℃,染色时长为6-60s,得到两种黑色纱线,所述染液中包含有浓度为100-180g/L的烧碱、浓度为70-120g/L的2BR水剂黑染料、浓度为3-10g/L的丝光渗透剂、浓度为70-130g/L的硫化碱,且染液中2BR水剂黑染料与硫化碱的浓度比为1:1,染色后还包括有水洗工序,水洗温度为40-80℃,水洗时长为30-40min;
(2)织造:以步骤(1)得到的两种黑色纱线为经纱,火山岩保暖纤维和高F低弹涤纶丝为纬纱进行织造,形成双层提花组织,参数设置如下:
①穿综参数:
边:1.2×60,
地:3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14;
②提综参数:
4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14 24 0 * 0 * * * * * * * * * * * 300D黑 3.4.5.7.8.9.11.12.13 23 0 * * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.11.12.13.14 22 * 0 * * * * * * * 0 * * * * 300D黑 3.4.6.7.8.10.11.12.14 21 * 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * 18/105D黑 3.4.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14 20 0 * * * 0 * * * * * * * * * 300D黑 3.5.6.7.9.10.11.13.14 19 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.13.14 18 * 0 * * * * * * * * * 0 * * 300D黑 4.5.6.8.9.10.12.13.14 17 * 0 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.8.9.10.11.12.13.14 16 0 * * * * * 0 * * * * * * * 300D黑 3.4.5.7.8.9.11.12.13 15 0 * * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13 14 * 0 * * * * * * * * * * * 0 300D黑 3.4.6.7.8.10.11.12.14 13 * 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.10.11.12.13.14 12 0 * * * * * * * 0 * * * * * 300D黑 3.5.6.7.9.10.11.13.14 11 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * 18/105D黑 3.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14 10 * 0 * 0 * * * * * * * * * * 300D黑 4.5.6.8.9.10.12.13.14 9 * 0 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.12.13.14 8 0 * * * * * * * * * 0 * * * 300D黑 3.4.5.7.8.9.11.12.13 7 0 * * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14 6 * 0 * * * 0 * * * * * * * * 300D黑 3.4.6.7.8.10.11.12.14 5 * 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.14 4 0 * * * * * * * * * * * 0 * 300D黑 3.5.6.7.9.10.11.13.14 3 0 * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * 18/105D黑 3.4.5.6.7.9.10.11.12.13.14 2 * 0 * * * * * 0 * * * * * * 300D黑 4.5.6.8.9.10.12.13.14 1 * 0 0 * * * 0 * * * 0 * * * 18/105D黑 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
高F低弹涤纶丝对应的纬纱储纬器中加润滑油3-15g/min,并控制张力为3.5-5cN;
(3)后整理工序,后整理工序为:烧毛-退浆-水洗-烘干-预缩:
1)烧毛:正面烧一道,反面不烧毛;
2)退浆:退浆采用的退浆液包括退浆酶4-10g/L、渗透剂1-7g/L,
3)水洗:温度40-70℃,
4)预缩:温度控制为130-165℃。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,其特征在于:退浆为无张力退浆。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种双层保暖牛仔面料的加工方法,其特征在于:步骤(2)中,织造的织机参数设置如下:
机型:OPTI 后梁高度:9CM 停经架高度:-2CM 车速:560/分 后梁深度:4CM 停经架深度:2CM 张力:3.0/KN 罗拉位置:2CM 棕平时间:309° 多臂开口时间:24° 棕框高度:14.8CM
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