WO2019028805A1 - 一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法 Download PDF

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WO2019028805A1
WO2019028805A1 PCT/CN2017/097000 CN2017097000W WO2019028805A1 WO 2019028805 A1 WO2019028805 A1 WO 2019028805A1 CN 2017097000 W CN2017097000 W CN 2017097000W WO 2019028805 A1 WO2019028805 A1 WO 2019028805A1
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fabric
jacquard
enzyme
yarns
light
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PCT/CN2017/097000
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
凌良仲
孙仁斌
王娟娟
李杨
于灿
仓亚萍
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江苏悦达家纺有限公司
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Publication of WO2019028805A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019028805A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/40—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using enzymes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a large jacquard home textile fabric with a light and thin multi-layer structure.
  • the embossed fabrics are mostly jacquard fabrics composed of complex structures such as heavy weft, double-layer multi-layer, towel fluffing, etc., which are made by jacquard machine and have poor comfort and can not satisfy people's comfort and Beautiful demand.
  • the invention provides a light-thin multi-layer structure of a large jacquard home textile fabric production method, combined with the European flower pattern of the large jacquard, so that the pattern of the fabric forms a permanent bulge, revealing a three-dimensional concave and convex visual sense, the fabric is light and thin, and is suitable for high-grade home textiles.
  • Bedding kit fabrics are very popular for marketing.
  • the invention is realized by the following technical solutions: a production method of a large and thin jacquard fabric with a light and thin multi-layer structure,
  • the width of the fabric is 300cm, the structure is three-layered, the surface is plain, the middle structure is the weft float formed by the OEC58.3tex air-jet spinning yarn; the dense 173/inch ⁇ Vimi 105/inch jacquard
  • Pattern design pattern, tissue laying, pattern creation, weaving, inspection and finishing
  • the warp breaking rate is reduced; since the weft yarns are fed with different thicknesses in a certain arrangement, it is necessary to choose a suitable one.
  • the enzyme desizing process padding enzyme solution, amylase 2g / L, penetrant JFC 2g / L, salt 4g / L, bath ratio 1:50 - thermal insulation, room temperature, 30min - hot water wash, temperature 60 ⁇ 85 ° C - cold water wash - drying.
  • the action condition of the enzyme desizing process is moderate, the cellulose fiber is not damaged, the physical and mechanical properties of the fiber are ensured, and the action efficiency is high.
  • the soft finishing and tenter setting finishing are carried out simultaneously on a hot air tenter setting machine, wherein the process parameters: aminosilicone softener 10g/L, rolling rate 65% ⁇ 75%, vehicle speed 35 ⁇ 50m/min, PH value 5 ⁇ 7, the setting temperature is 140 ° C, the setting time is 60 s.
  • the mechanical pre-spinning enters the wet grey fabric under low tension and is fed onto the screen conveyor belt with an adjustable overfeed amount, and the continuously variable and adjustable hot air circulation can obtain a controllable warp of the dried grey fabric.
  • the shrinkage rate is required, wherein the vehicle speed is controlled at about 45-52 m/min;
  • the light and thin multi-layered jacquard home textile fabric of the invention mainly meets the contemporary people's emphasis on the emotional experience of the fabric to convey the visual and tactile sensation and the pursuit of the natural, delicate and rough style of the fabric.
  • Pure cotton combed yarns JC60S, JC40S are preferred, and a thick cotton yarn OEC10S is added between the front and back layers of the fabric, and the large jacquard structure is combined to form a permanent ridge of the fabric pattern.
  • the width of the fabric is 300cm, the structure is three-layered, the surface is plain, the middle structure is the weft float formed by the OEC58.3tex air-jet spinning yarn; the dense 173/inch ⁇ Vimi 105/inch jacquard
  • Pattern design pattern, tissue laying, pattern creation, weaving, inspection repair whole
  • the warp breaking rate is reduced; since the weft yarns are fed with different thicknesses in a certain arrangement, it is necessary to choose a suitable one.
  • the enzyme desizing process padding enzyme solution, amylase 2g / L, penetrant JFC 2g / L, salt 4g / L, bath ratio 1:50 - thermal insulation, room temperature, 30min - hot water wash, temperature 60 ⁇ 85 ° C - cold water wash - drying.
  • the action condition of the enzyme desizing process is moderate, the cellulose fiber is not damaged, the physical and mechanical properties of the fiber are ensured, and the action efficiency is high.
  • the soft finishing and tenter setting finishing are carried out simultaneously on a hot air tenter setting machine, wherein the process parameters: aminosilicone softener 10g/L, rolling rate 65% ⁇ 75%, vehicle speed 35 ⁇ 50m/min, PH value 5 ⁇ 7, the setting temperature is 140 ° C, the setting time is 60 s.
  • the mechanical pre-spinning enters the wet grey fabric under low tension and is fed onto the screen conveyor belt with an adjustable overfeed amount, and the continuously variable and adjustable hot air circulation can obtain a controllable warp of the dried grey fabric.
  • the shrinkage rate is required, wherein the vehicle speed is controlled at about 45-52 m/min;
  • Main fabric index result Formaldehyde content not detected pH value 6.6
  • Decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dye not detected Odor no Color fastness to water Level 4-5 Color fastness to soaping Level 4-5 Color fastness to acid and perspiration Level 4-5 Color fastness to alkali sweat Level 4-5 Color fastness to rubbing Level 4-5 Breaking strength Warp direction 260N, weft direction 250N Pilling level 4 Density deviation rate +12.2% of the warp direction, +4.1% of the latitude Washed dimensional change rate Warp-1.1%, latitudinal -0.5%
  • the beneficial effect of the embodiment is that the large and thin jacquard fabric of the light and thin multi-layer structure mainly meets the contemporary people's emphasis on the emotional experience of the fabric to convey the visual and tactile sensation and the pursuit of the natural, refined and rough style of the fabric.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

提供一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法包括(1)原料：经纱：JC9.7tex(JC60S)；纬纱：JC14.6tex(JC40S):OEC58.3tex(OEC10S)＝3:1其中坯布幅宽为300cm，利用三层组织，表里组织为平纹，中间组织为OEC58.3tex气流纺纱线形成的纬浮；经密173根/英寸×维密105根/英寸大提花(2)面料织造；(3)染整工艺：坯布翻缝—酶退浆—煮练—烧毛—酵素水洗—柔软+拉幅定型—机械预缩—成品检验打卷；其中酶退浆工艺流程：浸轧酶液，淀粉酶2g/L，渗透剂JFC 2g/L，食盐4g/L，浴比1:50—保温堆置，室温，30min—热水洗，温度60～85℃—冷水洗—烘干。得到的轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料利用不同粗细的经纬纱线，配以合理的工艺设计和花型组织设计，不仅增强了面料的服用效应而且使得面料具有装饰性和审美情趣。

Description

一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法。
背景技术
目前，国内鲜见有厂家生产轻薄型多层结构的凹凸套件面料。纵观国内外凹凸面料的研发历程，凹凸效应面料多为重经重纬、双层多层、毛巾起绒等复杂组织构成的提花织物，采用提花机制造，舒适性差，不能满足人们的舒适和美观的需求。
发明内容
本发明提供一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，结合大提花的欧式花型，使面料的花纹形成永久性的隆起，彰显立体凹凸视觉感，面料轻薄，适宜做高档家纺床品套件面料，极具市场推广价值。
本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的：一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，
(1)原料：
经纱：JC9.7tex(JC60S)；
纬纱：JC14.6tex(JC40S):OEC58.3tex(OEC10S)＝3:1
其中坯布幅宽为300cm，利用三层组织，表里组织为平纹，中间组织为OEC58.3tex气流纺纱线形成的纬浮；经密173根/英寸×维密105根/英寸大提花
(2)面料织造：经纱、纬纱：原料拆包检验、络筒 整经-浆纱穿经；
花型：设计花型、组织的铺设、生成纹版、织造、检验修整
其中在织造过程中，经过反复试验摸索，遵循“小开口、紧张力”的工艺要求，使经向断头率降低；由于纬纱为不同粗细的纱线以一定的排列喂入，故需选择合适的储纬形式；端头打结时采用手工自紧接，确保其小而牢；适当降低织机车速，提高织机效率；加强车间温湿度的管理，车间湿度宜高些，从而改善织造的生产环境。
(3)染整工艺：坯布翻缝—酶退浆—煮练—烧毛—酵素水洗—柔软+拉幅定型—机械预缩—成品检验打卷；
其中酶退浆工艺流程：浸轧酶液，淀粉酶2g/L，渗透剂JFC 2g/L，食盐4g/L，浴比1:50—保温堆置，室温，30min—热水洗，温度60～85℃—冷水洗—烘干。酶退浆工艺作用条件缓和，不会损伤纤维素纤维，保证纤维的物理机械性能，并且作用效率高。
所述柔软整理与拉幅定型整理同时在热风拉幅定型机上进行，其中工艺参数：氨基硅柔软剂10g/L，轧余率65％～75％，车速35～50m/min，PH值5～7，定形温度140℃，定型时间60s。
其中所述机械预松在湿坯布在低张力下进入并以可调节的超喂量喂入筛网传送带上，连续可变可调节的热风循环，可使烘干后的坯布获得可控的经向收缩率要求，其中车速控制在45-52m/min左右；
所述酵素水洗：浸渍酵素液2％o.w.f.，浴比1:10，处理温度50℃，40min，PH＝5.0，处理结束后，加入适量的Na2CO3使PH调至9～10，升温至70℃左右并保温10min，使酶失活，防止过度损伤。
本发明的轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料主要是满足当代人强调面料传递视觉和触觉的情感体验及对面料自然、精致、粗犷风格的追求。利用不同粗细的经纬纱线，配以合理的工艺设计和花型组织设计，不仅增强了面料的服用效应、技术含量和附加值，而且使得面料具有装饰性和审美情趣。优选纯棉精梳纱JC60S、JC40S，并在织物的表里层之间，加入粗支棉纱OEC10S，结合大提花组织，使面料花纹处形成永久性的隆起。
具体实施方式
本实施例的一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，
(1)原料：
经纱：JC9.7tex(JC60S)；
纬纱：JC14.6tex(JC40S):OEC58.3tex(OEC10S)＝3:1
其中坯布幅宽为300cm，利用三层组织，表里组织为平纹，中间组织为OEC58.3tex气流纺纱线形成的纬浮；经密173根/英寸×维密105根/英寸大提花
(2)面料织造：经纱、纬纱：原料拆包检验、络筒 整经-浆纱穿经；
花型：设计花型、组织的铺设、生成纹版、织造、检验修 整
其中在织造过程中，经过反复试验摸索，遵循“小开口、紧张力”的工艺要求，使经向断头率降低；由于纬纱为不同粗细的纱线以一定的排列喂入，故需选择合适的储纬形式；端头打结时采用手工自紧接，确保其小而牢；适当降低织机车速，提高织机效率；加强车间温湿度的管理，车间湿度宜高些，从而改善织造的生产环境。
(3)染整工艺：坯布翻缝—酶退浆—煮练—烧毛—酵素水洗—柔软+拉幅定型—机械预缩—成品检验打卷；
其中酶退浆工艺流程：浸轧酶液，淀粉酶2g/L，渗透剂JFC 2g/L，食盐4g/L，浴比1:50—保温堆置，室温，30min—热水洗，温度60～85℃—冷水洗—烘干。酶退浆工艺作用条件缓和，不会损伤纤维素纤维，保证纤维的物理机械性能，并且作用效率高。
所述柔软整理与拉幅定型整理同时在热风拉幅定型机上进行，其中工艺参数：氨基硅柔软剂10g/L，轧余率65％～75％，车速35～50m/min，PH值5～7，定形温度140℃，定型时间60s。
其中所述机械预松在湿坯布在低张力下进入并以可调节的超喂量喂入筛网传送带上，连续可变可调节的热风循环，可使烘干后的坯布获得可控的经向收缩率要求，其中车速控制在45-52m/min左右；
所述酵素水洗：浸渍酵素液2％o.w.f.，浴比1:10，处理温度50℃，40min，PH＝5.0，处理结束后，加入适量的Na2CO3使PH调至9～10，升温至70℃左右并保温10min，使酶失活，防止过度损伤。
面料主要检测指标
面料主要指标 结果
甲醛含量 未检出
pH值 6.6
可分解致癌芳香胺染料 未检出
异味 无
耐水色牢度 4-5级
耐皂洗色牢度 4-5级
耐酸汗渍色牢度 4-5级
耐碱汗渍色牢度 4-5级
耐摩擦色牢度 4-5级
断裂强力 经向260N，纬向250N
起球 4级
密度偏差率 经向+12.2％，纬向+4.1％
水洗尺寸变化率 经向-1.1％，纬向-0.5％
本实施例的有益效果是：轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料主要是满足当代人强调面料传递视觉和触觉的情感体验及对面料自然、精致、粗犷风格的追求。利用不同粗细的经纬纱线，配以合理的工艺设计和花型组织设计，不仅增强了面料的服用效应、技术含量和附加值，而且使得面料具有装饰性和审美情趣。优选纯棉精梳纱JC60S、JC40S，并在织物的表里层之间，加入粗支棉纱OEC10S，结合大提花组织，使面料花纹处形成永久性的隆起。

Claims (4)

  1. 一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，其特征在于：
    (1)原料：
    经纱：JC9.7tex(JC60S)；
    纬纱：JC14.6tex(JC40S):OEC58.3tex(OEC10S)＝3:1
    其中坯布幅宽为300cm，利用三层组织，表里组织为平纹，中间组织为OEC58.3tex气流纺纱线形成的纬浮；经密173根/英寸×维密105根/英寸大提花
    (2)面料织造；
    (3)染整工艺：坯布翻缝—酶退浆—煮练—烧毛—酵素水洗—柔软+拉幅定型—机械预缩—成品检验打卷；
    其中酶退浆工艺流程：浸轧酶液，淀粉酶2G/L，渗透剂JFC 2G/L，食盐4G/L，浴比1:50—保温堆置，室温，30MIN—热水洗，温度60～85℃—冷水洗—烘干。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，其特征在于：所述柔软整理与拉幅定型整理同时在热风拉幅定型机上进行，其中工艺参数：氨基硅柔软剂10G/L，轧余率65％～75％，车速35～50M/MIN，PH值5～7，定形温度140℃，定型时间60S。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，其特征在于：其中所述机械预松在湿坯布在低张力下进入并以可调节的超喂量喂入筛网传送带上，连续可变可调节的热风循环，可使烘干后的坯布获得可控的经向收缩率要求，其中车速控制在45-52m/min左右。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的 生产方法，其特征在于：酵素水洗：浸渍酵素液2％o.w.f.，浴比1:10，处理温度50℃，40min，PH＝5.0，处理结束后，加入适量的Na2CO3使PH调至9～10，升温至70℃左右并保温10min，使酶失活，防止过度损伤。
PCT/CN2017/097000 2017-08-08 2017-08-11 一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法 WO2019028805A1 (zh)

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