WO2021253991A1 - 羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法 - Google Patents

羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021253991A1
WO2021253991A1 PCT/CN2021/090002 CN2021090002W WO2021253991A1 WO 2021253991 A1 WO2021253991 A1 WO 2021253991A1 CN 2021090002 W CN2021090002 W CN 2021090002W WO 2021253991 A1 WO2021253991 A1 WO 2021253991A1
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yarn
cashmere
fabric
knotted
warp
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PCT/CN2021/090002
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English (en)
French (fr)
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乔建成
聂文山
范秀荣
丁慧
王新泉
董瑞兰
郭建丽
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内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司
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Publication of WO2021253991A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021253991A1/zh
Priority to ZA2022/00600A priority Critical patent/ZA202200600B/en

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a knitting technology, in particular to a cashmere knotted yarn fabric and a production method thereof.
  • the technical problem solved by the present invention is to provide a cashmere knotted yarn fabric and a production method thereof, so that the finished cashmere knotted yarn fabric has the soft and silky body feeling of the cashmere product and the colorful fancy yarn effect.
  • Pile knot yarn fabric including warp yarn and weft yarn woven together, one of the warp yarn and weft yarn is woolen cashmere yarn, and the other is knot yarn.
  • the woollen cashmere yarn is pure cashmere woolen yarn or a blended woolen yarn of cashmere and other fibers;
  • the knotted yarn is a cashmere knotted yarn made of cashmere decorative threads.
  • the count of woollen cashmere yarn is 14-20/1 public count or 16-28/2 public count, and the count of knotted yarn is 8-30 public count.
  • the weight of the fabric is 240-350 g/m 2
  • the content of cashmere fiber is 50-95%.
  • the warp yarn or the weft yarn adopts a knotted yarn and a pure cashmere yarn twisted structure.
  • the production method of cashmere knot yarn fabric includes:
  • Yarn production including: woollen cashmere yarn and knotted yarn preparation;
  • Use yarns for grey fabric production including: warping, drawing in, reeding, weaving, repairing, during the production of grey fabrics, the machine warp density (90-180) / 10cm, the machine weft density (100-190) /10cm, width of machine (180-200) cm, total number of warps (1620-3600), weave select twill weave or weft satin weave; one of warp and weft is woolen cashmere yarn, the other Use knotted yarn;
  • the post-finishing of the grey fabric includes washing, shrinking, softening, drying, and steaming to obtain cashmere knotted yarn fabric.
  • the woollen cashmere yarn is pure cashmere woolen yarn, or a blended woolen yarn of cashmere and other fibers; knotted yarn is used as warp or weft yarn, or knotted yarn and woollen cashmere yarn are twisted together and used as warp or weft.
  • the finished woolen cashmere yarn or knotted yarn is warped according to the requirements of fabric warp pattern circulation.
  • the warp yarns are drawn according to the fabric structure requirements, and the warp yarns after drawing up are selected according to the requirements of the fabric warp density.
  • the number of reeds is worn, the warp beams of the reeds are hung on the loom, the board is tied according to the organizational structure required by the fabric, and the weaving is performed according to the required weft density of the fabric and the fabric weft pattern cycle.
  • the production of the grey fabric is completed. , The grey cloth is repaired and qualified after inspection and finishing.
  • the grey cloth is washed and shrunk, the washing temperature is 35-40°C, the pressure of the platen is maintained, the drum pressure is 1.5-2bar, the cloth speed is 180-240m/min, and the washing and shrinking agent is used in the washing and shrinking process.
  • the dosage is 2-4% of the weight of the fabric, and the washing time is 30-60min; for softening, the amount of softening agent is 1-3% of the weight of the fabric in the softening process, and the amount of smoothing agent is 1-3% of the weight of the fabric.
  • the time is 20-30 seconds, the cloth tension of the decanter is 2.5-3bar, and the steam pressure is ⁇ 3bar.
  • the invention innovatively applies the fancy yarn cashmere knot yarn to the cashmere fabric, so that the finished cashmere knot yarn fabric has the soft and silky body feeling of the cashmere product and the colorful fancy yarn effect, which adds to the traditional cashmere fabric Infinite vitality has increased the variety of cashmere products and expanded the consumer group of cashmere products.
  • Figure 1 is a structure diagram of the cashmere knotted yarn fabric of the present invention.
  • the cashmere knotted yarn fabric produced by the invention is suitable for making coats, windbreakers, jackets and suits for men and women.
  • the production method of cashmere knot yarn fabric includes the following steps:
  • Step 1 Yarn production
  • the warp and weft of the cashmere knotted yarn fabric are knotted yarn and/or woollen cashmere yarn. It is the first to use it together in cashmere knotted yarn fabrics, and woven fabrics are used as warp yarns and weft yarns.
  • Step 11 Preparation of woollen cashmere yarn
  • Woollen cashmere yarn is pure cashmere woollen yarn or a blended woollen yarn of cashmere and other fibers.
  • Step 12 Preparation of knotted yarn.
  • Knotted yarn alone or twisted with woollen cashmere yarn is used as warp yarn and/or weft yarn.
  • Knotted yarn is cashmere knotted yarn made of cashmere ornamental thread, or knotted yarn made of other fibers.
  • the count of woollen cashmere yarn is 14-20/1 public count (Nm), or 16-28/2 public count; the count of knotted yarn is 8-30 public count.
  • Step 2 Grey cloth production
  • Use yarns for grey fabric production including: warping, drawing in, reeding, weaving, repairing, during the production of grey fabrics, the machine warp density (90-180) / 10cm, the machine weft density (100-190) /10cm, width of machine (180-200) cm, total number of warps (1620-3600), weave select twill weave or weft satin weave; one of warp and weft is woolen cashmere yarn, the other Use knotted yarn;
  • the woollen cashmere yarn and/or knotted yarn made above are warped according to the fabric warp pattern circulation requirements.
  • the warp yarns after warping are drawn in according to the fabric structure requirements.
  • Step 24 Weaving.
  • Step 3 After finishing the grey fabric, it includes washing and shrinking, softening, drying and steaming in sequence to obtain cashmere knotted yarn fabric.
  • the cashmere fiber content in the cashmere knotted yarn fabric is 50-95%, and the weight of the fabric is 240-350g/m 2 .
  • Step 31 Wash and shrink the grey cloth, the washing temperature is 35-40°C, the pressure plate is not pressurized, the roller pressure is 1.5-2bar, the cloth speed is 180-240m/min, and the washing shrinkage agent is used during the washing and shrinking process.
  • the dosage of the agent is 2-4% by weight of the fabric, and the washing shrinkage time is 30-60min;
  • Step 32 Softening treatment, in the softening process, the amount of softener is 1-3% by weight of the fabric, the amount of smoothing agent is 1-3% by weight of the fabric, and the treatment time is 10-20min;
  • Step 33 Drying, the drying temperature is 100-130°C, and the cloth speed is 10-15m/min during the drying process;
  • Step 34 Steaming, use a batch steaming machine to complete the steaming process.
  • the steaming time is 6-10 minutes
  • the cooling time is 20-30 seconds
  • the cloth tension of the steaming machine is 2.5-3bar
  • the steam pressure is ⁇ 3bar.
  • Knotted yarns are selected from five colors of red, light blue, light green, dark green, and yellow. Knotted yarns are made of 76% polyester and 24% metal-coated polyester, with a count of 30Nm; cashmere yarns are selected with metal coating Pure cashmere yarn with similar color of polyester, the count is 16/1Nm, knot yarn and pure cashmere yarn are twisted together as weft yarn, and the count after twisting is 10Nm.
  • the warp yarns are all 16/1Nm pure cashmere yarns, and the weft yarns are arranged in 1-1 intervals with 16/1Nm yarns and 10Nm yarns.
  • the content of cashmere fiber in the fabric is 91%, and the weight of the fabric is 280g/m 2 .
  • the machine has a warp density of 160 pieces/10cm, a machine weft density of 150 pieces/10cm, a machine width of 192cm, and a total warp number of 3072 pieces.
  • the weave selects the same face twill weave.
  • the washing shrinkage temperature is 40°C
  • the pressing plate is not pressurized
  • the roller pressure is 1.8bar
  • the cloth speed is 180m/min
  • the amount of washing shrinkage agent is 2.5% of the fabric weight
  • the washing shrinkage time is 40min
  • soft treatment soft
  • the dosage of the agent is 1% of the weight of the fabric
  • the dosage of the smoothing agent is 1% of the weight of the fabric.
  • the treatment time is 10min; the drying temperature is 120°C, and the cloth speed during the drying process is 15m/min.
  • the cold time is 30 seconds, the cloth tension of the decanter is 2.5-3bar, and the steam pressure is ⁇ 3bar.
  • the knotted yarn is made of three colors of white, medium camel and dark camel.
  • the knotted yarn is made of 100% polyester and the count is 30Nm.
  • the cashmere yarn is pure purple cashmere yarn without dyeing, the count is 16/ 1Nm, knotted yarn and pure cashmere yarn are used as warp and weft after twisting, and the count after twisting is 10Nm.
  • the warp and weft yarns are all arranged with 16/1Nm yarn and 10Nm yarn 1-1 spaced apart.
  • the content of cashmere fiber in the fabric is 82%, and the weight of the fabric is 290g/m 2 .
  • the washing shrinkage temperature is 40°C
  • the pressing plate is not pressurized
  • the roller pressure is 1.8bar
  • the cloth speed is 180m/min
  • the amount of washing shrinkage agent is 2.5% of the weaving weight
  • the washing shrinkage time is 45min
  • soft processing soft
  • the dosage of the agent is 1% of the weight of the fabric
  • the dosage of the smoothing agent is 1% of the weight of the fabric.
  • the treatment time is 10min; the drying temperature is 120°C, and the cloth speed during the drying process is 15m/min;
  • the time is 30 seconds, the cloth tension of the decanter is 2.5-3bar, and the steam pressure is ⁇ 3bar.
  • the invention innovatively applies the fancy yarn cashmere knot yarn to the cashmere fabric, so that the finished cashmere knot yarn fabric has the soft and silky body feeling of the cashmere product and the colorful fancy yarn effect.
  • the cashmere knotted yarn fabric produced by the invention is suitable for making coats, windbreakers, jackets and suits for men and women.

Abstract

一种羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法，包括编织在一起的经纱、纬纱，经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱。

Description

羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法
本申请基于下列中国专利申请提出：
申请号：202010565018.1，申请日：2020年06月19日；
并要求上述中国专利申请的优先权，上述中国专利申请的全部内容在此引入本申请作为参考。
技术领域
本发明涉及一种针织技术，具体是，涉及一种羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法。
背景技术
随着市场的发展和消费水平的提高，羊绒产品的消费群体在不断扩大，消费者对羊绒产品个性化、时尚化的需求越来越强烈。目前市场上的羊绒面料大多数是素色产品，另外有少量的格子面料，用这样的面料制作的服装虽然穿着起来端庄高雅、非常高贵，但是这些羊绒面料一般只做大衣，少量的做成了夹克，穿着显的很“正式”，非常正统，缺乏个性化。
如何增加羊绒面料的图案并保持面料的体感，是羊绒面料生产需要解决的技术难题。
发明内容
本发明所解决的技术问题是提供一种羊绒结子纱面料及其生产方法，使成品羊绒结子纱面料既有羊绒产品柔软丝滑的体感，又有绚烂多彩的花式纱效果。
技术方案如下：
绒结子纱面料，包括编织在一起的经纱、纬纱，经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱。
进一步，粗纺羊绒纱选用纯羊绒粗纺纱，或羊绒与其它纤维的混纺粗纺纱；结子纱选用使用羊绒饰线制作的羊绒结子纱。
进一步，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为14-20/1公支或16-28/2公支，结子纱的支数为8-30公支。
进一步，面料重量为240-350g/m 2，羊绒纤维的含量为50-95％。
进一步，经纱或纬纱采用结子纱与纯羊绒纱并捻结构。
羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，包括：
纱线生产，包括：粗纺羊绒纱、结子纱的制备；
使用纱线进行坯布生产，包括：整经、穿综、穿筘、织造、修补，坯布生产过程中，上机经密(90-180)根/10cm，上机纬密(100-190)根/10cm，上机幅宽(180-200)cm，总经根数(1620－3600)根，组织选用同面斜纹组织或纬面缎纹组织；经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱；
坯布后整理，依次包括洗缩、柔软处理、烘干、蒸呢，制得羊绒结子纱面料。
优选的，粗纺羊绒纱为纯羊绒粗纺纱，或羊绒与其它纤维的混纺粗纺纱；结子纱作为经纱或纬纱使用，或者结子纱与粗纺羊绒纱并捻后作为经纱或纬纱使用。
优选的，制成的粗纺羊绒纱或结子纱根据面料经向花型循环要求整经，整经后的经纱根据面料组织结构要求穿综，穿综后的经纱根据面料经密要求选用合适的筘号穿筘，穿好筘的经轴挂在织机上，根据面料要求的组织结构扎纹板，并根据面料要求的纬密及面料纬向花型循环要求进行织造，织造完成后，坯布生产完成，坯布经修补、检验合格后进行后整理加工。
优选的，对坯布进行洗缩，洗缩温度为35-40℃，压板压力保持，滚筒压力为1.5-2bar，布速为180-240m/min，洗缩过程中使用洗缩剂，洗缩剂用量为织物重量的2-4％，洗缩时间30-60min；柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为织物重量的1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重量的1-3％，处理时间10-20min；烘干，烘干温度100-130℃，烘干过程中布速10-15m/min；选用间歇蒸呢机完成蒸呢加工，蒸呢过程中给汽时间6-10min，抽冷时间20-30秒，蒸呢机包布张力2.5-3bar，蒸汽压力≥3bar。
与现有技术相比，本发明技术效果包括：
本发明把花式纱羊绒结子纱创新性应用到羊绒面料上，使成品羊绒结子纱面料既有羊绒产品柔软丝滑的体感，又有绚烂多彩的花式纱效果，给传统的羊绒面料增添了无穷的活力，增加了羊绒产品的品种，扩大了羊绒产品的消费群体。
附图概述
图1是本发明中羊绒结子纱面料的组织图。
本发明的较佳实施方式
下面参考示例实施方式对本发明技术方案作详细说明。然而，示例实施方式能够以多种形式实施，且不应被理解为限于在此阐述的实施方式；相反，提供这些实施方式使得本发明更全面和完整，并将示例实施方式的构思全面地传达给本领域的技术人员。
本发明生产的羊绒结子纱面料适用于制作男女款的大衣、风衣、夹克衫以及套装等服装。
羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤1：纱线生产；
羊绒结子纱面料的经纱、纬纱为结子纱和/或粗纺羊绒纱线。合起来应用在羊绒结子纱面料为首创，梭织面料作为经纱、纬纱使用。
步骤11：粗纺羊绒纱的制备；
粗纺羊绒纱为纯羊绒粗纺纱，或羊绒与其它纤维的混纺粗纺纱。
步骤12：结子纱的制备。
结子纱单独或与粗纺羊绒纱并捻后作为经纱和/或纬纱使用。
结子纱为使用羊绒饰线制作的羊绒结子纱，或其它纤维制作的结子纱。
粗纺羊绒纱的支数为14-20/1公支(Nm)，或16-28/2公支；结子纱的支数为8-30公支。
步骤2：坯布生产；
使用纱线进行坯布生产，包括：整经、穿综、穿筘、织造、修补，坯布生产过程中，上机经密(90-180)根/10cm，上机纬密(100-190)根/10cm，上机幅宽(180-200)cm，总经根数(1620－3600)根，组织选用同面斜纹组织或纬面缎纹组织；经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱；
步骤21：整经；
将上述制成的粗纺羊绒纱和/或结子纱根据面料经向花型循环要求整经。
步骤22：穿综；
将整经后的经纱根据面料组织结构要求穿综。
步骤23：穿筘；
将穿综后的经纱根据面料经密要求选用合适的筘号穿筘。
步骤24：织造。
将穿好筘的经轴挂在织机上，根据面料要求的组织结构扎纹板，并根据面料要求的纬密及面料纬向花型循环要求进行织造，织造完成后，坯布生产完成，坯布经修补、检验合格后进行后整理加工。
步骤3：坯布后整理，依次包括洗缩、柔软处理、烘干、蒸呢，制得羊绒结子纱面料。
如图1所示，是本发明中羊绒结子纱面料的组织图。
黑色：羊绒纱，白色：羊绒与结子纱合股纱。
羊绒结子纱面料中羊绒纤维的含量为50-95％，面料的重量为240-350g/m 2。
步骤31：对坯布进行洗缩，洗缩温度为35-40℃，压板不加压，滚筒压力为1.5-2bar，布速为180-240m/min，洗缩过程中使用洗缩剂，洗缩剂用量为织物重量2-4％，洗缩时间30-60min；
步骤32：柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为织物重量1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重1-3％，处理时间10-20min；
步骤33：烘干，烘干温度100-130℃，烘干过程中布速10-15m/min；
步骤34：蒸呢，选用间歇蒸呢机完成蒸呢加工，蒸呢过程中给汽时间6-10min，抽冷时间20-30秒，蒸呢机包布张力2.5-3bar，蒸汽压力≥3bar。
实施1：“明星”羊绒结子纱面料
1、面料结构
结子纱选用具有红、浅蓝、浅绿、深绿和黄五个颜色的段染结子纱，结子纱原料为76％涤纶、24％金属镀层涤纶，支数为30Nm；羊绒纱选用与金属镀层涤纶颜色近似的纯羊绒纱，支数为16/1Nm，结子纱和纯羊绒纱并捻用做纬纱，并捻后的支数为10Nm。经纱全部用16/1Nm纯羊绒纱，纬纱采用16/1Nm纱和10Nm纱1-1间隔排列。面料中羊绒纤维的含量为91％，面料的重量为280g/m 2。
2、坯布生产，上机经密160根/10cm，上机纬密150根/10cm，上机幅宽192cm，总经根数3072根，组织选用同面斜纹组织。
3、后整理，洗缩温度为40℃，压板不加压，滚筒压力为1.8bar，布速为180m/min，洗缩剂用量为织物重量的2.5％，洗缩时间40min；柔软处理，柔软剂用量为织物重量的1％，平滑剂用量为对织物重量的1％，处理时间10min；烘干温度120℃，烘干过程中布速15m/min；蒸呢过程中给汽时间8min，抽冷时间30秒，蒸呢机包布张力2.5-3bar，蒸汽压力≥3bar。
实施2：“时光”羊绒结子纱面料
1、面料结构
结子纱选用具有白色、中驼和深驼三个颜色的段染结子纱，结子纱原料为100％涤纶，支数为30Nm，羊绒纱选用无染色的纯紫绒羊绒纱，支数为16/1Nm，结子纱和纯羊绒纱并捻后用做经纱和纬纱，并捻后的支数为10Nm。经纱和纬纱全部采用16/1Nm纱和10Nm纱1-1间隔排列。面料中羊绒纤维的含量为82％，面料的重量为290g/m 2。
2、坯布生产，上机经密135根/10cm，上机纬密152根/10cm，上机幅宽192cm，总经根数2592根，组织选用同面斜纹组织。
3、后整理，洗缩温度为40℃，压板不加压，滚筒压力为1.8bar，布速为180m/min，洗缩剂用量为对织重2.5％，洗缩时间45min；柔软处理，柔软剂用量为对织物重1％，平滑剂用量为对织物重1％，处理时间10min；烘干温度120℃，烘干过程中布速15m/min；蒸呢过程中给汽时间8min，抽冷时间 30秒，蒸呢机包布张力2.5-3bar，蒸汽压力≥3bar。
本发明所用的术语是说明和示例性、而非限制性的术语。由于本发明能够以多种形式具体实施而不脱离发明的精神或实质，所以应当理解，上述实施例不限于任何前述的细节，而应在随附权利要求所限定的精神和范围内广泛地解释，因此落入权利要求或其等效范围内的全部变化和改型都应为随附权利要求所涵盖。
工业实用性
本发明把花式纱羊绒结子纱创新性应用到羊绒面料上，使成品羊绒结子纱面料既有羊绒产品柔软丝滑的体感，又有绚烂多彩的花式纱效果。本发明生产的羊绒结子纱面料适用于制作男女款的大衣、风衣、夹克衫以及套装等服装。

Claims (9)

  1. 羊绒结子纱面料，包括编织在一起的经纱、纬纱，其特征在于，经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱。
  2. 如权利要求1所述的羊绒结子纱面料，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱选用纯羊绒粗纺纱，或羊绒与其它纤维的混纺粗纺纱；结子纱选用使用羊绒饰线制作的羊绒结子纱。
  3. 如权利要求1所述的羊绒结子纱面料，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱的支数为14-20/1公支或16-28/2公支，结子纱的支数为8-30公支。
  4. 如权利要求1所述的羊绒结子纱面料，其特征在于，面料重量为240-350g/m 2，羊绒纤维的含量为50-95％。
  5. 如权利要求1所述的羊绒结子纱面料，其特征在于，经纱或纬纱采用结子纱与纯羊绒纱并捻结构。
  6. 一种羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，包括：
    纱线生产，包括：粗纺羊绒纱、结子纱的制备；
    使用纱线进行坯布生产，包括：整经、穿综、穿筘、织造、修补，坯布生产过程中，上机经密为90-180根/10cm，上机纬密为100-190根/10cm，上机幅宽为180-200cm，总经根数为1620-3600根，组织选用同面斜纹组织或纬面缎纹组织；经纱和纬纱中一个采用粗纺羊绒纱，另一个采用结子纱；
    坯布后整理，依次包括洗缩、柔软处理、烘干、蒸呢，制得羊绒结子纱面料。
  7. 如权利要求6所述的羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，其特征在于，粗纺羊绒纱为纯羊绒粗纺纱，或羊绒与其它纤维的混纺粗纺纱；结子纱作为经纱或纬纱使用，或者结子纱与粗纺羊绒纱并捻后作为经纱或纬纱使用。
  8. 如权利要求6所述的羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，其特征在于，制成的粗纺羊绒纱或结子纱根据面料经向花型循环要求整经，整经后的经纱根据面料组织结构要求穿综，穿综后的经纱根据面料经密要求选用合适的筘号穿筘，穿好筘的经轴挂在织机上，根据面料要求的组织结构扎纹板，并根据面料要求的纬密及面料纬向花型循环要求进行织造，织造完成后，坯布生产完成，坯布经修补、检验合格后进行后整理加工。
  9. 如权利要求6所述的羊绒结子纱面料的生产方法，其特征在于，
    对坯布进行洗缩，洗缩温度为35-40℃，压板压力保持，滚筒压力为1.5-2bar，布速为180-240m/min，洗缩过程中使用洗缩剂，洗缩剂用量为织物重量的2-4％，洗缩时间30-60min；
    柔软处理，柔软过程中柔软剂用量为织物重量的1-3％，平滑剂用量为对织物重量的1-3％，处理时间10-20min；
    烘干，烘干温度100-130℃，烘干过程中布速10-15m/min；
    选用间歇蒸呢机完成蒸呢加工，蒸呢过程中给汽时间6-10min，抽冷时间20-30秒，蒸呢机包布张力2.5-3bar，蒸汽压力≥3bar。
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