WO2019029403A1 - 一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents

一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 Download PDF

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WO2019029403A1
WO2019029403A1 PCT/CN2018/097851 CN2018097851W WO2019029403A1 WO 2019029403 A1 WO2019029403 A1 WO 2019029403A1 CN 2018097851 W CN2018097851 W CN 2018097851W WO 2019029403 A1 WO2019029403 A1 WO 2019029403A1
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yarn
fabric
composite
polyester
shrinkage
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PCT/CN2018/097851
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English (en)
French (fr)
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仝晓婷
陈红霞
陆鹏
丁可敬
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江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2019029403A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019029403A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/37—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0035—Protective fabrics
    • D03D1/0064—Noise dampening
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B9/00—Solvent-treatment of textile materials
    • D06B9/04—Successively applying two or more different solvent-based treating materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to a anti-drilling fabric containing composite yarns and a processing method thereof.
  • the duvet is light and thin, but has excellent thermal insulation performance. In the autumn and winter season, more and more consumers choose the down jacket to resist the cold. In order to make the duvet have anti-drilling properties and prevent the down from being drilled out of the fabric, the duvet fabric tends to have a high weaving density and needs to be subjected to anti-drilling finishing and calendering. The greater the weaving density of the fabric, the greater the tension experienced by the warp and weft yarns during weaving. Even after the dyeing process, the yarns with large tension in the fabric are difficult to retract, so the fluffy softness of the fabric is poor. . Anti-drilling finishing uses a chemical additive to form a film on the surface of the fabric after padding and calendering.
  • the film can effectively prevent the feathers and feathers from being drilled, but the film also reduces the breathability and moisture permeability of the fabric. performance.
  • the calendering process is to flatten the yarn by a pressure roller to reduce the gap between the yarn and the yarn, thereby reducing the probability of the feather being drilled, but after the yarn is crushed, the micropores in the yarn and the fabric are reduced.
  • the fluffy performance is deteriorated, so the feel of the fabric is hard and brittle, and the sound is loud when rubbed and compressed during use.
  • the invention aims at the above problems, and provides a anti-drilling fabric containing a composite yarn and a processing method thereof, wherein the fabric adopts a composite shrinkage yarn, and the fabric is shrink-expanded by a printing and dyeing process to achieve the purpose of preventing the anti-drilling, and at the same time, the fabric has excellent properties. Breathable, moisture permeable and noise-reducing effects.
  • An anti-drilling fabric comprising a composite yarn, wherein the fabric grey fabric is interwoven by warp and weft yarns according to a fabric structure, the warp yarn adopts cotton yarn, and the weft yarn adopts composite shrinkage yarn; the composite shrinkage yarn is made of a polyester shrinkage yarn and A polyester-rubber composite yarn is processed by a filament retanning process.
  • the woven fabric has five warp satin weaves having a warp density of 150-230/inch and a weft density of 100-180/inch.
  • the yarn count of the cotton yarn is 40-80S
  • the yarn branch of the composite shrink yarn is 125-200D.
  • the mass shrinkage of the polyester shrinkage yarn in the composite shrinkage yarn is 25-40%, and the twist of the composite shrinkage yarn is 15-20 ⁇ /meter.
  • polyester shrinkage yarn shrinkage rate is 25-30%.
  • polyester fiber and the nylon fiber in the polyester/nylon composite yarn are all shaped fibers and have different cross-sectional shapes.
  • the shaped fiber has a triangular, pentagon, trilobal, double cross or flat cross section.
  • the above-mentioned processing method for the anti-drilling fabric containing the composite yarn comprises the following steps: filament retanling ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ turning seam seam ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ pulling Width ⁇ peeling ⁇ washing ⁇ soft setting ⁇ finished product.
  • the scouring bleaching process is carried out at a temperature of 95-98 ° C for 40-60 min.
  • the stripping step is carried out in a batch type coil cylinder, and the process parameters are caustic soda 50-70 g/L, refining agent 2-3 g/L, bath ratio 1:12-20, time 1-2 h, temperature 90 -100 ° C.
  • the present invention can achieve the following beneficial effects:
  • the anti-drilling fabric of the invention is interwoven by cotton and composite shrinkage yarn.
  • the polyester shrinkage yarn in the composite shrinkage yarn shrinks, increases the tightness and thickness of the fabric, and then undergoes a splitting process to make the polyester in the composite shrinkage yarn.
  • the brocade composite yarn splits into ultra-fine fibers, and the fibers have different cross-sectional shapes, which not only can obtain a tight and fluffy hand, but also because the mixing of different morphological fibers increases the tiny pores inside the yarn, and improves the moisture permeability of the fabric and Noise reduction function.
  • Figure 1 is a structural view of the fabric of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a composite shrinkage yarn of the present invention
  • Figure 3 is a schematic view showing the structure of the polyester shrinkage yarn in the composite shrinkage yarn of the present invention.
  • black is the tissue point
  • white is the weft tissue point
  • 1-polyester-composite yarn is the weft tissue point
  • 2-polyester shrinkage yarn is the weft tissue point
  • 3-folded polyester-polyamide composite yarn is the tissue point
  • the anti-drilling fabric fabric of the present invention is formed by weaving warp and weft yarns according to the weave, the warp yarn adopts cotton yarn, and the weft yarn adopts composite shrinkage yarn.
  • the composite shrinkage yarn is processed by a polyester shrinking yarn and a polyester/polyamide composite yarn by a filament retanning process (the filament retanning process is controlled by feeding different sets of filaments).
  • the tension is fed to make the tension uniform, and then a small amount of twist is added to increase the bonding force between the fibers, so that the filaments of each group are not easily separated.
  • the polyester-rubber composite yarn in the composite shrinkage yarn is split into polyester and nylon by wet heat mechanical treatment. Fiber, polyester shrinkage yarn will shrink when wet heat.
  • the polyester shrinkage yarn shrinks when the fabric undergoes pre-treatment moist heat, and the length of the weft composite shrinkage yarn becomes shorter, and the polyester-nylon composite yarn in the composite shrinkage yarn curls with the shrinkage of the polyester shrinkage yarn, forming in the fabric.
  • the pores, the tightness and thickness of the fabric increase, and the fabric shrinks sufficiently during the printing and dyeing process, which helps to improve the fluffiness of the fabric.
  • the fabric feels softer. Fluffy and low noise.
  • the polyester-polyamide composite yarn is composed of two components of polyester fiber and nylon fiber, which is divided by a special distribution plate and extruded through the same orifice.
  • the polyester-rubber composite yarn which has been crimped by wet heat mechanical treatment will be further split into finer polyester and nylon fibers, which will increase the bulkiness and micro-pores of the fabric, thereby achieving the purpose of preventing drilling, moisture permeability and noise reduction.
  • the polyester fiber and the nylon fiber in the polyester-rubber composite yarn are all shaped fibers, and the cross-sectional shape is different, so that after the split yarn is peeled and peeled, the fibers of the two cross-section shapes in the yarn are favorable for further increasing the micro-porosity in the yarn.
  • the tiny pores help to improve the moisture permeability and breathability of the fabric.
  • the cross-section of the shaped fiber is triangular, pentagonal, trilobal, double cross or flat.
  • the warp yarn support is 40-80S
  • the composite shrinkage yarn support is 125-200D.
  • the polyester shrinkage yarn is processed by a polyester shrinkage yarn and a polyester/polyamide composite yarn by a filament retanning process.
  • the processing twist is 15 ⁇ /m-20 ⁇ /m
  • the polyester shrinkage yarn accounts for 25%-40% by mass in the composite yarn
  • the shrinkage is 25-30%.
  • the fabric In order to exert the moisture permeability of the fabric, the fabric is woven with five warp satin weaves with a warp density of 150/inch-230/inch and a latitudinal density of 100-180/inch. In the middle, due to the shrinkage of the polyester shrinkage yarn, the weft shrinkage of the fabric to the finished product is 20%-30%, and the tightness of the finished fabric can achieve a better anti-drilling effect.
  • the front side of the fabric is a cotton-like reverse surface which is a composite shrinkage yarn, and the front side is When the cotton is in contact with the human body, the moisture is absorbed, and the composite yarn on the reverse side just discharges the absorbed moisture, thereby achieving a better moisture wicking effect.
  • the processing method of the above-mentioned anti-drilling fabric comprises the following steps: sequential filament rewinding ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ turning the seam head ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ tentering ⁇ peeling ⁇ Washed ⁇ soft set ⁇ finished product.
  • the fabric shrinks due to the moist heat during the pretreatment process.
  • the main process parameters are temperature 95-98 ° C, time 40-60 min, caustic soda 25-40 g / L, chelating agent 6-10 g / L, refining agent 4 -8g / L, hydrogen peroxide 10-20g / L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 3-7g / L.
  • the stripping process is carried out in a batch-type coil cylinder, and the fiber is cracked under the conditions of damp heat and mechanical action.
  • the process parameters are caustic soda 50-70 g/L, refining agent 2-3 g/L, bath ratio 1:12-1: 20, time 1-2h, temperature 90-100 ° C.
  • the fabric warp yarn adopts 40S combed cotton yarn, and the weft direction adopts 200D composite shrinkage yarn.
  • the composite shrinkage yarn is composed of 75D polyester shrinkage yarn and 120D polyester/nylon composite yarn DTY.
  • the cross section of polyester fiber is approximately triangular, and the cross section of nylon fiber is similar.
  • the rectangular shape, the composite shrinkage twist is 15 ⁇ /m, the shrinkage of the polyester shrinkage yarn is 25%, and the fabric specification is JC40S* composite shrinkage yarn 200D/145*110.
  • the processing method of the above-mentioned anti-drilling fabric comprises the following steps: sequential filament rewinding ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ turning the seam head ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ tentering ⁇ peeling ⁇ Washed ⁇ soft set ⁇ finished product.
  • 10 g/L amylase was piled up in the fabric of the grey cloth, and after 6 hours of storage, the hot water was washed.
  • the main process conditions for scouring and bleaching are temperature 98 ° C, time 60 min, caustic soda 40 g / L, chelating agent 10 g / L, refining agent 8 g / L, hydrogen peroxide 20 g / L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 7 g / L, through the damp heat fiber Shrinkage occurs.
  • the stripping process is carried out in a batch-type coil cylinder, and the fiber is cracked under the conditions of damp heat and mechanical action.
  • the process parameters are caustic soda 70 g/L, refining agent 3 g/L, bath ratio 1:20, time 2 h, temperature. 100 ° C.
  • the fabric setting temperature is 170 ° C, and the softener dosage is 30 g / L.
  • the fabric warp yarn adopts 80S combed cotton yarn, and the weft direction adopts 125D composite shrinkage yarn.
  • the composite shrinkage yarn is composed of 20D polyester shrinkage yarn and 100D polyester/nylon composite yarn DTY.
  • the cross section of polyester fiber is approximately triangular, and the cross section of nylon fiber is similar.
  • the rectangular shape, the composite shrinkage twist is 20 ⁇ /m, the shrinkage of the polyester shrinkage yarn is 30%, and the fabric specification is JC80S* composite shrinkage yarn 100D/230*180.
  • the processing method of the above-mentioned anti-drilling fabric comprises the following steps: sequential filament rewinding ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ turning the seam head ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ tentering ⁇ peeling ⁇ Washed ⁇ soft set ⁇ finished product.
  • the 5 g/L amylase was piled up in the fabric of the grey cloth, and after 4 hours of storage, the hot water was washed.
  • the main process conditions for scouring and bleaching are temperature 95 ° C, time 40 min, caustic soda 25 g / L, chelating agent 6 g / L, refining agent 4 g / L, hydrogen peroxide 10 g / L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 3 g / L, through damp heat fiber Shrinkage occurs.
  • the stripping process is carried out in a batch-type coil cylinder, and the fiber is cracked under the conditions of damp heat and mechanical action.
  • the process parameters are caustic soda 50g/L, refining agent 2g/L, bath ratio 1:12, time 2h, temperature. 90 ° C.
  • the fabric setting temperature is 160 ° C
  • the softener dosage is 20 g / L.
  • the fabric warp is made of combed 40S cotton yarn, weft plain polyester 200D, and the fabric specification is JC40S* polyester 200D/145*120.
  • the process is warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ turning the seam head ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ stretching ⁇ washing ⁇ soft setting ⁇ finished product.
  • the fabric warp is made of combed 40S cotton yarn, the weft direction is made of polyester shrinking yarn 200D, and the fabric specification is JC40S polyester 200D/145*110. Filament retanning ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ tumbling seams ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ tentering ⁇ stripping ⁇ washing ⁇ soft setting ⁇ finished product.
  • the fabric warp is made of combed 40S cotton yarn, and the weft direction is made of polyester/nylon composite yarn, and the polyester fiber and the nylon fiber in the cross section of the composite yarn have the same shape, and all have an approximate triangular shape.
  • the fabric specifications are JC40S* polyester 200D/145*120. Filament retanning ⁇ warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ tumbling seams ⁇ rolling enzyme stacking ⁇ scouring, bleaching ⁇ tentering ⁇ stripping ⁇ washing ⁇ soft setting ⁇ finished product.
  • Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Fluffiness fluffy fluffy Tight Tight More fluffy Softness soft soft Stiff Stiff Softer Drilling/root 8 6 twenty one 12 14 sound small small Larger Big Smaller Moisture permeability /g/m 2 /24h 8.35*10 3 8.83*10 3 2.10*10 3 1.84*10 3 9.01*10 3
  • the fabric of the present invention has excellent breathability, moisture permeability and noise reduction.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法，所述面料坯布由经纬纱按照织物组织交织而成，所述经纱采用棉纱，纬纱采用复合收缩丝；所述复合收缩丝是由一根涤纶收缩丝（2）和一根涤锦复合丝（1）经长丝复捻工艺加工而成。加工方法包括依序进行的如下工序：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。该面料采用复合收缩丝，并通过印染工艺使面料收缩膨化从而达到防钻绒目的，同时，面料具有优良的透气、透湿性能和降低噪音的效果。

Description

一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域，具体涉及一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法。
背景技术
羽绒被轻薄却具有优异的保暖性能，在秋冬季节越来越多的消费者选择羽绒被抵御严寒。为了使羽绒被具有防钻绒性能，阻止羽绒从面料中钻出来，羽绒被面料往往具有较高的织造密度且需要经过防钻绒整理和压光处理。织物织造密度越大，在织造中经纬纱线受到的张力就越大，即使在经过印染加工处理后，织物中张力大的纱线也很难有空间回缩，因此面料的蓬松柔软性能较差。防钻绒整理是使用一种化学助剂，经过浸轧和压光在面料表层形成一层薄膜，该薄膜能够有效阻止羽绒、羽毛的钻出，但是该薄膜也降低了面料的透气和透湿性能。压光处理是通过压辊将纱线压扁，减小纱线与纱线间的空隙，从而降低羽绒钻出的几率，但是纱线被压扁之后，纱线和织物内的微孔减小、蓬松性能变差，因此面料的手感硬脆，使用过程中经摩擦和压缩时，声响较大。目前绝大部份羽绒被产品还停留在防钻绒的基本问题，解决羽绒被面料声响大、手感差和热湿舒适性差等问题，产品才能更符合人的睡眠舒适需求。
发明内容
本发明针对上述问题，提供一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料及其加工方法，该面料采用复合收缩丝，并通过印染工艺使面料收缩膨化从而达到防钻绒目的，同时，面料具有优良的透气、透湿性能和降低噪音的效果。
为实现上述有益效果，本发明采用以下技术方案：
一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，所述面料坯布由经纬纱按照织物组织交织而成，所述经纱采用棉纱，纬纱采用复合收缩丝；所述复合收缩丝是由一根涤纶收缩丝和一根涤锦复合丝经长丝复捻工艺加工而成。
进一步地，所述织物组织采用五枚经面缎纹组织，经向密度为150-230根/英寸，纬向密度为100-180根/英寸。
进一步地，所述棉纱的纱支为40-80S，复合收缩丝的纱支为125-200D。
进一步地，所述复合收缩丝中涤纶收缩丝的质量百分比为25-40％，复合收缩丝的捻度为15-20捻/米。
进一步地，所述涤纶收缩丝收缩率为25-30％。
进一步地，涤锦复合丝中涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维均为异形纤维，且截面形态不同。
进一步地，所述异形纤维的截面为三角形、五角形、三叶形、双十字或扁平形。
上述含有复合丝的防钻绒面料的加工方法，包括依序进行的如下工序：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
进一步地，所述煮练漂白工序，温度95-98℃，时间40-60min。
进一步地，所述剥离工序是在间歇式卷缸中进行，其工艺参数为烧碱50-70g/L、精炼剂2-3g/L，浴比1:12-20，时间1-2h，温度90-100℃。
通过以上技术手段，本发明可以实现以下有益效果：
本发明防钻绒面料由棉和复合收缩丝交织而成，经过湿热处理后复合收缩丝中的涤纶收缩丝发生收缩，增加织物的紧度和厚度，再经过分裂工艺使复合收缩丝中的涤锦复合丝分裂成超细旦纤维，且纤维有不同的截面形态，这样不仅可以得到紧密蓬松的手感，也因为不同形态纤维的混合增加纱线内部的微小孔隙，提升面料的透湿气性能和降低噪音的功能。
附图说明
图1是本发明面料的组织结构图；
图2是本发明复合收缩丝的结构示意图；
图3是本发明复合收缩丝中涤纶收缩丝收缩后的结构示意图；
其中：黑色为经组织点，白色为纬组织点，1-涤锦复合丝，2-涤纶收缩丝，3-发生卷曲后的涤锦复合丝。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细说明。但本领域技术人员将会理解，下列实施例仅用于说明本发明，而不应视为限定本发明的范围。实施例中未注明具体技术或条件者，按照本领域内的文献所描述的技术或条件(例如参考赵涛编著的《染整工艺与原理》，中国纺织出版社，2009；沈兰萍著的《织物结构与设计》，中国纺织出版社，2005)或者按照产品说明书进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者，均为可以通过市购获得的常规产品。
本发明的防钻绒面料坯布，由经纬纱按照织物组织交织而成，经纱采用棉纱，纬纱采用复合收缩丝。如图2所示，复合收缩丝是由一根涤纶收缩丝和一根涤锦复合丝经长丝复捻工艺加工而成(长丝复捻工艺是通过喂入不同组数的长丝，控制喂入张力使其张力均匀一致，然后加少量的捻度增加纤维之间的结合力，使各组长丝不易分离)，复合收缩丝中的 涤锦复合丝经过湿热机械处理会分裂成涤纶与锦纶纤维，涤纶收缩丝经湿热作用会发生收缩。
如图3所示，面料经过前处理湿热作用时涤纶收缩丝发生收缩，纬纱复合收缩丝长度变短，同时复合收缩丝中的涤锦复合丝随着涤纶收缩丝的收缩发生卷曲，面料中形成孔隙，面料紧度和厚度增加，织物在印染过程中充分的收缩，有利于提升面料的手感蓬松度，和通过织造高密度面料或者轧光工艺达到的防钻绒性能相比，面料手感更柔软蓬松、噪声小。
涤锦复合丝是由涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维两种组分，由特殊的分配板进行分流，通过同一喷丝孔挤出成形。经过湿热机械处理发生卷曲的涤锦复合丝会进一步分裂成更细的涤纶与锦纶纤维，增加织物蓬松度和微小孔隙，从而达到防钻绒、透湿和降噪目的。
进一步优选涤锦复合丝中涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维均为异形纤维，且截面形态不同，这样复合丝在分裂剥离之后，纱线中的两种截面形态的纤维，有利于进一步增加纱线中微小孔隙，微小孔隙有助于提升面料的透湿和透气性能。异形纤维的截面为三角形、五角形、三叶形、双十字或扁平形。
经纱纱支为40-80S，复合收缩丝纱支为125-200D，其中合涤纶收缩丝是由一根涤纶收缩丝和一根涤锦复合丝经长丝复捻工艺加工而成，加工捻度为15捻/米-20捻/米，涤纶收缩丝在复合丝中所占的质量百分比为25％-40％，收缩率为25-30％。
为了发挥面料的透湿性能，面料采用五枚经面缎纹组织织造，坯布经向密度为150根/英寸-230根/英寸，纬向密度为100-180根/英寸，这样在印染处理过程中，由于涤纶收缩丝的收缩使坯布到成品纬向收缩达20％-30％，成品面料的紧度能达到较好的防钻绒效果，面料正面为棉质感反面为复合收缩丝，正面的棉与人体接触将湿气吸收，反面的复合丝正好将吸收好的吸湿排出，从而达到较好的吸湿排汗效果。
上述防钻绒面料的加工方法，包括依序进行的如下步骤：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
面料在前处理过程中因湿热作用，涤纶收缩丝产生收缩，其主要工艺参数为温度95-98℃，时间40-60min，烧碱25-40g/L，螯合剂6-10g/L，精炼剂4-8g/L，双氧水10-20g/L，双氧水稳定剂3-7g/L。
剥离工艺为在间歇式卷缸中进行，在湿热和机械作用条件下使纤维发生崩裂，其工艺参数为烧碱50-70g/L，精炼剂2-3g/L，浴比1:12-1:20，时间1-2h，温度90-100℃。
实施例1
面料经纱采用40S精梳棉纱，纬向采用200D复合收缩丝，其中复合收缩丝由75D涤 纶收缩丝和120D的涤锦复合丝DTY复合而成，涤纶纤维横截面近似三角形形态，锦纶纤维横截面近似矩形形态，复合收缩丝捻度为15捻/米，涤纶收缩丝的收缩率为25％，面料规格为JC40S*复合收缩丝200D/145*110。
上述防钻绒面料的加工方法，包括依序进行的如下步骤：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
坯布轧酶堆置10g/L淀粉酶，堆置6h后，热水洗净。煮练、漂白采用的主要工艺条件为温度98℃，时间60min，烧碱40g/L，螯合剂10g/L，精炼剂8g/L，双氧水20g/L，双氧水稳定剂7g/L，通过湿热作用纤维发生收缩。
所述剥离工艺为在间歇式卷缸中进行，在湿热和机械作用条件下使纤维发生崩裂，其工艺参数为烧碱70g/L，精炼剂3g/L，浴比1:20，时间2h，温度100℃。为了保障面料水洗尺寸稳定性，面料定型温度为170℃，柔软剂用量为30g/L。
其余工艺为本领域公知技术。
实施例2
面料经纱采用80S精梳棉纱，纬向采用125D复合收缩丝，其中复合收缩丝由20D涤纶收缩丝和100D的涤锦复合丝DTY复合而成，涤纶纤维横截面近似三角形形态，锦纶纤维横截面近似矩形形态，复合收缩丝捻度为20捻/米，涤纶收缩丝的收缩率为30％，面料规格为JC80S*复合收缩丝100D/230*180。
上述防钻绒面料的加工方法，包括依序进行的如下步骤：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
坯布轧酶堆置5g/L淀粉酶，堆置4h后，热水洗净。煮练、漂白采用的主要工艺条件为温度95℃，时间40min，烧碱25g/L，螯合剂6g/L，精炼剂4g/L，双氧水10g/L，双氧水稳定剂3g/L，通过湿热作用纤维发生收缩。
所述剥离工艺为在间歇式卷缸中进行，在湿热和机械作用条件下使纤维发生崩裂，其工艺参数为烧碱50g/L，精炼剂2g/L，浴比1:12，时间2h，温度90℃。为了保障面料水洗尺寸稳定性，面料定型温度为160℃，柔软剂用量为20g/L。
其余工艺为本领域公知技术。
对照例1
面料经向采用精梳40S棉纱，纬向普通涤纶200D，面料规格为JC40S*涤纶200D/145*120。其工艺流程为整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉 幅→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
对照例2
面料经向采用精梳40S棉纱，纬向采用涤纶收缩丝200D，面料规格为JC40S涤纶200D/145*110。长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
对照例3
面料经向采用精梳40S棉纱，纬向采用涤锦复合丝，且该复合丝截面中的涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维形态相同，均呈现近似三角形形态。面料规格为JC40S*涤纶200D/145*120。长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
将上述实施例制得的面料进行性能测试，钻绒性采用GB/T12705.2-2009纺织品防钻绒性试验方法第2部分：转箱法，透湿性采用GB/T12704.1-2009织物透湿性能：吸湿法。结果如下：
  实施例1 实施例2 对照例1 对照例2 对照例3
蓬松度 蓬松 蓬松 紧实 紧实 较蓬松
柔软度 柔软 柔软 硬挺 硬挺 较柔软
钻绒性/根 8 6 21 12 14
响声 小 小 较大 大 较小
透湿性/g/m 2/24h 8.35*10 3 8.83*10 3 2.10*10 3 1.84*10 3 9.01*10 3
由上表可知，本发明的面料具有优良的透气、透湿性能和降低噪音的效果。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，所述面料坯布由经纬纱按照织物组织交织而成，其特征在于：所述经纱采用棉纱，纬纱采用复合收缩丝；所述复合收缩丝是由一根涤纶收缩丝和一根涤锦复合丝经长丝复捻工艺加工而成。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述织物组织采用五枚经面缎纹组织，经向密度为150-230根/英寸，纬向密度为100-180根/英寸。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述棉纱的纱支为40-80S，复合收缩丝的纱支为125-200D。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述复合收缩丝中涤纶收缩丝的质量百分比为25-40％，复合收缩丝的捻度为15-20捻/米。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述涤纶收缩丝收缩率为25-30％。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述涤锦复合丝中涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维均为异形纤维，且截面形态不同。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述异形纤维的截面为三角形、五角形、三叶形、双十字或扁平形。
  8. 权利要求1所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：包括依序进行的如下工序：长丝复捻→整经→浆纱→织造→翻布缝头→轧酶堆置→煮练、漂白→拉幅→剥离→水洗→柔软定型→成品。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述煮练漂白工序，温度95-98℃，时间40-60min。
  10. 根据权利要求8所述的含有复合丝的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述剥离工序是在间歇式卷缸中进行，其工艺参数为烧碱50-70g/L、精炼剂2-3g/L，浴比1:12-20，时间1-2h，温度90-100℃。
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