WO2019011266A1 - 一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents

一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 Download PDF

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WO2019011266A1
WO2019011266A1 PCT/CN2018/095243 CN2018095243W WO2019011266A1 WO 2019011266 A1 WO2019011266 A1 WO 2019011266A1 CN 2018095243 W CN2018095243 W CN 2018095243W WO 2019011266 A1 WO2019011266 A1 WO 2019011266A1
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Prior art keywords
wool
fabric
cotton
drilling
water washing
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PCT/CN2018/095243
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English (en)
French (fr)
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仝晓婷
陈红霞
陆鹏
丁可敬
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江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2019011266A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019011266A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of household textile fabrics, and particularly relates to a anti-drilling fabric containing cotton and wool and a processing method thereof.
  • Duvets are becoming more and more popular because of their excellent warmth retention and low pressure on the human body.
  • the current duvet fabrics usually have a large weaving tightness, and the purpose is to prevent the down from being drilled from the fabric, so the fabric feels stiff and often has a squeaking sound.
  • the anti-drilling fabric of the purified fiber is usually finished with resin coating.
  • the cotton anti-drilling fabric will add anti-drilling finishing agent in the printing and dyeing stage, adding resin and anti-drilling finishing agent. Will reduce the moisture absorption and moisture permeability of the fabric.
  • the key factor affecting the quality of human sleep is the heat and humidity comfort performance.
  • Wool fiber has excellent resilience and moisture absorption and desorption performance due to the spiral structure and side group diversity of its macromolecular chain. How to apply the excellent characteristics of wool to the anti-feather fabric to improve the moisture absorption and desorption performance of the fabric and Good shape retention is very important.
  • the invention aims at the above problems, and provides a cotton-proof and wool-proof anti-drilling fabric and a processing method thereof, the fabric has excellent moisture absorption and moisture permeability, and the fabric has good rebound shape retention property, which further improves the durability of the fabric anti-feather.
  • the utility model relates to a anti-drilling fabric comprising cotton and wool, wherein the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are made of a blended yarn of cotton and wool, and the yarn of the blended yarn is 40S-80S, and the mass percentage of the wool in the blended yarn is 30% to 50%; the wool is fine wool.
  • the cotton-and-wool-proof fleece fabric fabric has a warp coverage of 50% to 55% and a weft cover coverage of 40% to 45%.
  • the fine wool has an average diameter of 18 to 22 ⁇ m.
  • the processing method of the above-mentioned anti-drilling fabric containing cotton and wool comprises, in order, a process of warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ wearing through ⁇ ⁇ weft weaving ⁇ pre-treatment ⁇ water washing ⁇ opening frame ⁇ drying ⁇ calendering ⁇ pre-shrinking;
  • the water washing process is a loose water washing using an overflow machine.
  • the water washing step has a temperature of 35 to 40 ° C and a speed of 30 to 40 m/min.
  • the working fluid in the water washing step has a permeation agent of 4 to 6 g/L, an antifoaming agent of 0.5 to 1 g/L, a soda ash of 2 to 5 g/L, and a pH of 8 to 9.
  • the drum drying device is used for loose drying, and the drying temperature is 80 to 90 °C.
  • the sizing process employs starch slurry sizing.
  • the water bath temperature in the pretreatment step is 85 to 95 °C.
  • amylase desizing is used in the pretreatment step.
  • the present invention can achieve the following beneficial effects:
  • the invention adopts a cotton and wool fiber blended yarn, woven into a fabric with a certain covering coefficient, and washes the pre-treated fabric through an overflow washing process, the washing process can play two roles, one is to eliminate the inside of the fabric.
  • the stress causes the fabric itself to shrink sufficiently.
  • the second is to make the wool fiber shrink, further filling the pores of the fabric, thereby improving the anti-drilling performance of the fabric.
  • the fabric is stabilized by the loose drying of the fabric.
  • the final fabric not only achieves the anti-velvet requirement and the soft and fluffy feel, but also the fabric does not add anti-drilling finishing agent and combines the excellent moisture absorption and desorption performance of the wool fiber. elasticity.
  • Figure 1 is a structural view of the structure of the fabric of Example 1;
  • Figure 2 is a structural view of the structure of the fabric of Example 2;
  • the longitudinal yarn represents the warp yarn
  • the transverse yarn represents the weft yarn
  • ⁇ represents the organized point
  • ⁇ represents the weft tissue point
  • Wool is composed of a scale layer coated on the outside, a cortical layer composed of a wool entity, and an opaque medulla layer at the center of the hair shaft.
  • the medulla layer is only present in the coarse wool, and is not present in the fine wool.
  • the present invention uses fine wool.
  • the fiber assembly Under the hot and humid conditions of the wool, the fiber assembly gradually shrinks tightly under the action of mechanical external force, and intertwined and entangled with each other, and the mating is felted. This property is called the fluffing property of wool. Those skilled in the art often use this property to process the processing of the sweater, which is called sweater shrinking.
  • the invention utilizes the characteristics of wool fluffing to provide a fluff-proof fabric containing cotton and wool.
  • the warp and weft yarns are mixed with a certain proportion of wool, and the wool fiber is shrunk through the post-spinning water washing process, and the fabric is tightened to achieve anti-drilling. Effect.
  • the processing flow is: warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ wearing through ⁇ ⁇ weft weaving ⁇ pre-treatment ⁇ washing ⁇ opening ⁇ drying ⁇ calendering ⁇ pre-shrinking to make the finished product.
  • the fabric is blended with cotton and fine wool.
  • the average diameter of the fine wool is 18-22 ⁇ m.
  • the fine wool is a flannel layer with no medullary layer.
  • the scale layer of the fine wool surface is evenly distributed and directional. Good, so it has better fluffing properties, and the fine wool has good elasticity, high strength, low itching, and cotton fiber can meet the strong requirements of the fabric and good contact feeling.
  • the percentage of fine wool in the blended yarn is 30% to 50%.
  • the present invention finds that within this range, the fine wool is affected by external conditions, so that the fine wool in the blended yarn is entangled with the wool fibers and the wool fibers due to the scale layer, the wool fibers and the cotton fibers are interpenetrated, the cotton fibers and the cotton are interwoven.
  • the fibers overlap and cross, and the transfer of wool fibers is more in the middle of the yarn, and the cotton fibers are more on the surface of the yarn, so that not only has a good fluffing effect, but also the fabric has a small itching feeling and a soft hand.
  • the fabric has a good hand feeling, and does not cause great damage to the fabric strength, and the fabric adopts an overflow washing process to make the fabric slightly fluffed.
  • the water washing process parameters are temperature 35-40 ° C, speed 30-40 m / min, wool fiber has better shrinking performance in this temperature range, and the mechanical force with the speed is relatively moderate, can be compared Good fluffing effect.
  • the invention adopts cotton and wool fiber for blending.
  • the pH value of the working fluid must be controlled, and the strength of the cotton fiber and the strength of the wool fiber can be balanced, and at the same time, Good shrinking effect
  • the auxiliary agent for the use of the invention is 4-6 g/L
  • the antifoaming agent is 0.5-1 g/L
  • the soda ash is 2-5 g/L
  • the pH is controlled at 8-9.
  • the fabric is subjected to mechanical force during the washing process, and the purpose is to promote the opening of the scales of the wool fibers, the wool fibers are felted and entangled and fluffed, and on the other hand, the internal stress in the fabric is released, eventually leading to shrinkage of the fabric and tightness of the fabric. The degree becomes larger, thereby improving the anti-drilling effect.
  • the present invention achieves the purpose of preventing the drilling by designing the water washing process to achieve the density of the shrinking fabric, and for this purpose, it is necessary to combine the reasonable covering coefficient of the grey fabric.
  • the fabric of the present invention has a warp cover tightness of 50% to 55% and a weft cover coverage of 40% to 45%.
  • the invention finds that in the range of the cover factor, the wool cotton fabric can not only have good wettability in water washing, but also promotes the full opening of the scale layer of the wool fiber, which is beneficial to the shrinking effect, and the pulling of the wool cotton fabric under the covering factor.
  • the retraction elasticity shrinks after being washed, and the shrinkage of the fabric is just enough to meet the anti-drilling requirements, while ensuring that the fabric does not shrink too much and feels hard.
  • the fabric is loosely dried by a tumble drying device after washing, and the drying temperature is 80 to 90 ° C.
  • the drying method can further enhance the feel of the fabric and can fix the size of the shrinked fabric.
  • the fabric is sizing with a full starch slurry, and the amylase can be used in the desizing process to avoid the damage caused by the caustic soda desizing on the wool fiber, and before the entire printing and dyeing process.
  • the water bath temperature during the treatment is 85-95 ° C, in order to protect the strength and feel of the wool fiber.
  • the fabric is made of fine wool fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric, wherein the fineness of the wool fiber is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the fine wool fiber in the blended yarn accounts for 30% by mass.
  • the fabric structure is plain, the warp cover is 50% tight, and the weft cover is 40% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 85 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 4g/L of penetrant, 0.5g/L of defoamer, 2g/L of soda ash, pH is controlled at 8 ⁇ 9, temperature is 35°C, speed is 30m/ Min.
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 80 °C.
  • the fabric is made of a blend of wool fibers and cotton fibers, wherein the fineness of the wool fibers is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the mass percentage of the wool fibers in the blended yarn is 50%.
  • the fabric structure is five three-flying satin weave structure, the warp cover is 55% tight, and the weft cover is 45% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 95 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 6g/L penetrant, defoamer 1g/L, soda ash 5g/L, pH control 8 ⁇ 9, temperature 40°C, speed 40m/min. .
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 90 °C.
  • the difference between this embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the warp coverage tightness is 50% and the latitudinal coverage is 30% tight.
  • the fabric is made of fine wool fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric, wherein the fineness of the wool fiber is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the fine wool fiber in the blended yarn accounts for 30% by mass.
  • the fabric structure is plain, the warp cover is 50% tight, and the weft cover is 30% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 85 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 4g/L of penetrant, 0.5g/L of defoamer, 2g/L of soda ash, pH is controlled at 8 ⁇ 9, temperature is 35°C, speed is 30m/ Min.
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 80 °C.
  • the fabric is made of fine wool fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric, wherein the fineness of the wool fiber is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the fine wool fiber in the blended yarn accounts for 30% by mass.
  • the fabric structure is plain, the warp cover is 40% tight, and the weft cover is 40% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 85 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 4g/L of penetrant, 0.5g/L of defoamer, 2g/L of soda ash, pH is controlled at 8 ⁇ 9, temperature is 35°C, speed is 30m/ Min.
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 80 °C.
  • the fabric is made of fine wool fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric, wherein the fineness of the wool fiber is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the fine wool fiber in the blended yarn accounts for 30% by mass.
  • the fabric structure is plain, the warp cover is 50% tight, and the weft cover is 50% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 85 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 4g/L of penetrant, 0.5g/L of defoamer, 2g/L of soda ash, pH is controlled at 8 ⁇ 9, temperature is 35°C, speed is 30m/ Min.
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 80 °C.
  • the fabric is made of fine wool fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric, wherein the fineness of the wool fiber is 18-22 ⁇ m, and the fine wool fiber in the blended yarn accounts for 30% by mass.
  • the fabric structure is plain, the warp cover is 50% tight, and the weft cover is 30% tight. Weaving on an air jet loom.
  • the fabric sizing process adopts full starch slurry sizing, and is repelled by amylase in the desizing process, and the water bath temperature during the pre-treatment process is 85 °C.
  • the process conditions of water washing are 4g/L of penetrant, 0.5g/L of defoamer, 2g/L of soda ash, pH is controlled at 8 ⁇ 9, temperature is 35°C, speed is 30m/ Min.
  • the fabric After the fabric is washed with water, it is dried in a tumble drying device, wherein the drying temperature is 80 °C.
  • Example 1 The performance test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was carried out, wherein the number of piles was measured by referring to the GB/T12705.2-2009 fabric anti-drilling test method. The results are as follows:
  • the fabric of the present invention has a good anti-drilling effect and a soft and fluffy hand.

Abstract

一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法，面料的经纬纱均采用棉与羊毛的混纺纱，混纺纱的纱支为40S~80S，羊毛在混纺纱中所占的质量百分比为30%~50%，羊毛为细羊毛；加工方法依次包括整经→浆纱→穿综穿筘→引纬织造→前处理→水洗→开幅→烘干→压光→预缩的工序，水洗工序采用溢流机松式水洗。

Description

一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法 技术领域
本发明属于家用纺织品面料技术领域，具体涉及一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法。
背景技术
羽绒被因其优良的保暖性能且对人体压迫小，而越来越受到欢迎。目前的羽绒被面料，通常具有较大的织造紧度，目的是阻止羽绒从面料中钻出，因此面料手感较硬挺，常有哗啦哗啦的响声。为了进一步提升面料的防钻绒性能，纯化纤的防钻绒面料通常会进行树脂涂层整理，全棉防钻绒面料在印染阶段会增加防钻绒整理剂，增加树脂和防钻绒整理剂会降低面料的吸湿透湿性能。影响人体睡眠质量好坏的关键因素是热湿舒适性能，如果在睡眠过程中产生的湿气和热气不能及时与外界空气交换，那么很容易产生闷热感，影响睡眠质量。羊毛纤维因其大分子链的螺旋构造和侧基的多样性，羊毛纤维具有优良的回弹性和吸湿放湿性能，如何将羊毛的优良特性应用到防羽面料，提高面料的吸湿放湿性能和良好的保型性非常重要。
发明内容
本发明针对上述问题，提供含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料及其加工方法，该面料具有优良的吸湿透湿性能、面料良好的回弹保型性进一步提升了面料防羽的持久性。
为实现上述有益效果，本发明采用以下技术方案：
一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料，所述面料经纬纱均采用棉与羊毛的混纺纱，混纺纱的纱支为40S～80S，羊毛在混纺纱中所占的质量百分比为30％～50％；所述羊毛为细羊毛。
优选地，所述含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料坯布的经向盖覆紧度为50％～55％，纬向盖覆紧度为40％～45％。
优选地，所述细羊毛平均直径为18～22μm。
上述含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，依次包括整经→浆纱→穿综穿筘→引纬织造→前处理→水洗→开幅→烘干→压光→预缩的工序；所述水洗工序是采用溢流机松式水洗。
优选地，所述水洗工序的温度35～40℃，速度30～40m/min。
优选地，所述水洗工序的工作液中渗透剂4～6g/L、消泡剂0.5～1g/L、纯碱2～5g/L，pH在8～9。
优选地，所述烘干工序中采用滚筒烘干设备进行松式烘干，烘干温度为80～90℃。
优选地，所述浆纱工序采用淀粉浆上浆。
优选地，所述前处理工序中水浴温度为85～95℃。
优选地，所述前处理工序中采用淀粉酶退浆。
通过以上技术方案，本发明可以实现以下有益效果：
本发明采用棉和羊毛纤维混纺纱，织成一定盖覆系数的面料，通过溢流水洗工艺对前处理后的面料进行水洗，该水洗工艺可以起到两个作用，一是消除织物的内应力，使织物本身充分收缩，二是使羊毛纤维发生缩绒，进一步填充织物的孔隙，从而提升面料的防钻绒性能。面料通过松式烘干将收缩后的尺寸稳固，最终面料不仅能达到防绒性要求和柔软蓬松的手感，且面料不增加防钻绒整理剂又兼具羊毛纤维优良的吸湿放湿性能和回弹性。
附图说明
图1是实施例1的织物组织结构图；
图2是实施例2的织物组织结构图；
其中，纵向的纱线表示经纱，横向的纱线表示纬纱，■表示经组织点，□表示纬组织点。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细说明。但本领域技术人员将会理解，下列实施例仅用于说明本发明，而不应视为限定本发明的范围。实施例中未注明具体技术或条件者，按照本领域内的文献所描述的技术或条件(例如参考赵涛编著的《染整工艺与原理》，中国纺织出版社，2009；沈兰萍著的《织物结构与设计》，中国纺织出版社，2005)或者按照产品说明书进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者，均为可以通过市购获得的常规产品。
羊毛是由包覆在外部的鳞片层、组成羊毛实体的皮质层和毛干中心不透明的髓质层三部分组成，髓质层只存在于粗羊毛中，细羊毛中没有。本发明采用的均为细羊毛。
羊毛在湿热条件下，经机械外力的反复作用，纤维集合体逐渐收缩紧密，并相互穿插纠缠，交编毡化，这一性能称为羊毛的缩绒性。本领域技术人员通常利用这一特性来处理羊毛衫的加工工艺称为羊毛衫缩绒。
本发明利用羊毛缩绒的特性提供一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料，经纬纱均混入一定比例的羊毛，通过后道松式水洗工艺，使得羊毛纤维收缩，织物变紧达到防钻绒的效果。
其加工工艺流程为：整经→浆纱→穿综穿筘→引纬织造→前处理→水洗→开幅→烘干→ 压光→预缩而制成成品。
面料采用棉和细羊毛进行混纺，细羊毛的平均直径为18～22μm，该细羊毛为带有鳞片层的羊毛，没有髓质层，该细羊毛表面的鳞片层因分布均匀、方向性一致性好，所以具有较好的缩绒性，且细羊毛的弹性好，强力高，刺痒性小，和棉纤维能够满足面料的强力要求和良好的接触感。其中细羊毛在混纺纱中所占的质量百分比为30％～50％。本发明发现在该范围内，细羊毛受到外界条件的影响，使混纺纱中的细羊毛因鳞片层发生羊毛纤维和羊毛纤维相互毡合纠缠，羊毛纤维和棉纤维相互穿插，棉纤维和棉纤维重叠交叉，且羊毛纤维较多的转移在纱线的中间，棉纤维较多地表现在纱线的表面，因此不仅具有较好的缩绒效果，且面料的刺痒感小，手感柔软。
进一步地，为了达到较好的缩绒效果，保证面料良好的手感，不对面料强力造成较大损伤，面料采用溢流水洗工艺使面料产生轻微缩绒。其中水洗工艺参数为温度35～40℃，速度30～40m/min，羊毛纤维在该温度范围内具有较好的缩绒性能，且配合该车速所具有的的机械作用力比较适中，能够得到较好的缩绒效果。本发明采用棉和羊毛纤维进行混纺，在印染过程中为了能够得到较好的缩绒效果，必须控制好工作液的pH值，能够兼顾棉纤维的强力与羊毛纤维的强力，同时又可以具有较好的缩绒效果，本发明所用助剂渗透剂4～6g/L，消泡剂0.5～1g/L，纯碱2～5g/L，pH控制在8～9。面料在水洗过程中受到机械作用力，目的是一方面促使羊毛纤维的鳞片打开，羊毛纤维彼此毡合纠缠而缩绒，另一方面使织物中的内应力得到释放，最终导致面料收缩、织物紧度变大，从而提升防钻绒效果。
进一步地，本发明通过设计水洗工艺起到收缩面料的密度，从而达到防钻绒目的，为此必须结合合理的坯布织造盖覆系数。本发明坯布经向盖覆紧度为50％～55％，纬向盖覆紧度为40％～45％。本发明发现在该覆盖系数范围内，羊毛棉坯布在水洗中不仅能有很好的浸润性，促使羊毛纤维的鳞片层充分打开，利于缩绒效果，而且该盖覆系数下羊毛棉坯布的拉伸回弹性能在经过水洗后发生收缩，其收缩后的织物紧密性正好能满足防钻绒要求，同时保证面料不至于缩的太多而手感发硬。
所述面料在水洗后采用滚筒烘干设备进行松式烘干，烘干温度为80～90℃，该烘干方式可以进一步提升面料手感，并能将收缩后的面料尺寸固定。
在加工过程中为了保护羊毛纤维的强力，所述面料采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中可用淀粉酶退净，避免采用烧碱退浆对羊毛纤维的强力造成损伤，且在整个印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85～95℃，目的是保护羊毛纤维的强力和手感。
实施例1
面料采用细羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中细羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为30％。
面料的组织结构为平纹，经向盖覆紧度为50％，纬向盖覆紧度为40％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂4g/L，消泡剂0.5g/L，纯碱2g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度35℃，速度30m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为80℃。
实施例2
所述面料采用羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为50％。
面料的组织结构为五枚三飞经面缎纹组织，经向盖覆紧度为55％，纬向盖覆紧度为45％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为95℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂6g/L，消泡剂1g/L，纯碱5g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度40℃，速度40m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为90℃。
对比例1
本实施例与实施例1的区别在于：经向覆盖紧度50％纬向覆盖紧度30％。
面料采用细羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中细羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为30％。
面料的组织结构为平纹，经向盖覆紧度为50％，纬向盖覆紧度为30％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂4g/L，消泡剂 0.5g/L，纯碱2g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度35℃，速度30m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为80℃。
对比例2
本实施例与实施例1的区别在于：经向覆盖紧度40％纬向覆盖紧度40％。
面料采用细羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中细羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为30％。
面料的组织结构为平纹，经向盖覆紧度为40％，纬向盖覆紧度为40％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂4g/L，消泡剂0.5g/L，纯碱2g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度35℃，速度30m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为80℃。
对比例3
本实施例与实施例1的区别在于：经向覆盖紧度50％纬向覆盖紧度50％。
面料采用细羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中细羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为30％。
面料的组织结构为平纹，经向盖覆紧度为50％，纬向盖覆紧度为50％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂4g/L，消泡剂0.5g/L，纯碱2g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度35℃，速度30m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为80℃。
对比例4
本实施例与实施例1的区别在于：经向覆盖紧度60％纬向覆盖紧度40％。
面料采用细羊毛纤维和棉纤维混纺织造而成，其中羊毛纤维的细度为18～22μm，混纺纱中细羊毛纤维所占的质量百分为30％。
面料的组织结构为平纹，经向盖覆紧度为50％，纬向盖覆紧度为30％。在喷气织机上织造而成。
面料上浆工艺采用全淀粉浆料上浆，在退浆过程中用淀粉酶退净，其印染前处理过程中水浴温度为85℃。
面料通过溢流水洗工艺使面料发生收缩，其中水洗的工艺条件为渗透剂4g/L，消泡剂0.5g/L，纯碱2g/L，pH控制在8～9，温度35℃，速度30m/min。
面料水洗后经开幅后，在滚筒烘干设备中进行烘干，其中烘干温度为80℃。
将实施例1与对比例1至4进行性能测试，其中钻绒根数参照GB/T12705.2-2009织物防钻绒试验方法进行。结果如下：
  实施例1 对比例1 对比例2 对比例3 对比例4
钻绒根数/根 8 17 23 7 8
手感 柔软 松软 松软 较硬挺 较硬挺
由以上结果可知，本发明的面料具有良好的防钻绒效果和柔软蓬松的手感。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述面料经纬纱均采用棉与羊毛的混纺纱，混纺纱的纱支为40S～80S，羊毛在混纺纱中所占的质量百分比为30％～50％；所述羊毛为细羊毛。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述面料坯布的经向盖覆紧度为50％～55％，纬向盖覆紧度为40％～45％。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料，其特征在于：所述细羊毛平均直径为18～22μm。
  4. 权利要求1所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：依次包括整经→浆纱→穿综穿筘→引纬织造→前处理→水洗→开幅→烘干→压光→预缩的工序；所述水洗工序是采用溢流机松式水洗。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述水洗工序的温度35～40℃，速度30～40m/min。
  6. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述水洗工序的工作液中渗透剂4～6g/L、消泡剂0.5～1g/L、纯碱2～5g/L，pH在8～9。
  7. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述烘干工序中采用滚筒烘干设备进行松式烘干，烘干温度为80～90℃。
  8. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述浆纱工序采用淀粉浆上浆。
  9. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述前处理工序中水浴温度为85～95℃。
  10. 根据权利要求4所述的含棉和羊毛的防钻绒面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述前处理工序中采用淀粉酶退浆。
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