CN107203122B - 装饰钟表部件的方法 - Google Patents

装饰钟表部件的方法 Download PDF

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CN107203122B
CN107203122B CN201710153767.1A CN201710153767A CN107203122B CN 107203122 B CN107203122 B CN 107203122B CN 201710153767 A CN201710153767 A CN 201710153767A CN 107203122 B CN107203122 B CN 107203122B
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CN107203122A (zh
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C·默讷斯特尔斯基
C·福雷
S·斯普林格
G·罗西耶
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Swatch Group Research and Development SA
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    • G—PHYSICS
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    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
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    • G04B19/042—Construction and manufacture of the hands; arrangements for increasing reading accuracy
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22—METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
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    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
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    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
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    • G—PHYSICS
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种装饰钟表部件(1)的方法，其包括：a)钟表部件(1)的制备步骤，其任选包括在钟表部件(1)上沉积第一材料以形成第一子层(2)的第一步骤，b)在步骤a)中获得的钟表部件(1)上沉积第二材料以形成第二子层(4)的第二步骤，c)包括在步骤b)中获得的钟表部件(1)上沉积第三有色材料以形成有色外装饰层(5)的着色步骤。根据本发明，至少步骤b)和步骤c)通过物理气相沉积法(PVD)实现。

Description

装饰钟表部件的方法
发明领域
本发明涉及装饰钟表部件的方法，其包括钟表部件制备步骤、防腐蚀步骤和用于形成有色外装饰层的着色步骤。
发明背景
这种方法传统上用于制造钟表部件，更特别是指针和嵌花，尤其是黄铜指针和嵌花。
根据这种方法，通过通过电沉积法在钟表部件的所有面上沉积第一保护层制备钟表部件。这种技术具有能以相对较高的速率预处理大量部件的优点。然后对该部件施以机械金刚石抛光操作，其通过形成小平面(facets)赋予该部件明亮地闪烁的外观。然后再通过在该部件的所有表面上电沉积防腐蚀层和有色外装饰层而处理该部件。由于在金刚石机械加工后获得的精致表面，此时这些电沉积操作是复杂的。因此，外装饰层的颜色有时可能表现出不均匀，这使该部件报废。此外，对于这种电沉积技术，生产成本高并且并非所有合金都可沉积以获得所有可能的颜色。
发明概述
本发明的一个目的是克服这些不同的缺点。
更具体地，本发明的一个目的是提出一种在实施上简单并合理以降低生产成本的钟表部件的工业装饰方法。
本发明的另一目的是提出一种降低报废或废品率的钟表部件的工业装饰方法。
本发明因此涉及一种装饰钟表部件的方法，其包括：
a)任选包括在钟表部件上沉积第一材料以形成第一子层的第一步骤的钟表部件制备步骤，
b)在在制备步骤a)中获得的钟表部件上沉积第二材料以形成第二子层的第二步骤，
c)包括在在第二沉积步骤b)中获得的钟表部件上沉积第三有色材料以形成有色外装饰层的着色步骤。
根据本发明，至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)通过物理气相沉积法(PVD)实现。
有利地，制备步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤也可通过物理气相沉积法实现。
根据本发明的一个优选实施方案，至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)，和任选地制备步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤在不破坏真空条件的情况下实现。
本发明的方法因此合理地实施其各种步骤。此外，其可以获得非常均匀的有色外装饰层并因此降低钟表部件的报废率。
附图简述
在阅读仅作为示例性和非限制性实例给出的本发明的实施方案的下列描述和附图时更清楚看出本发明的其它特征和优点，其中：
-图1至5显示在本发明的方法的不同步骤中处理的钟表部件的剖视图。
优选实施方案详述
参照图1，显示未处理的钟表部件1，例如指针，特别是黄铜或青铜指针的剖视图。
该钟表(timepiece)部件可以例如选自指针(hand)、嵌花(applique)、表盘(dial)、凸缘(flange)、表框(bezel)、表冠(crown)、按钮(push-button)、摆轮锤(oscillating weight)、轮(wheel)、夹板(bridge)、主机板(plate)或钟表中使用的希望着色的任何其它元件或构件。
首先在本发明的方法的制备步骤a)中制备钟表部件1。这一制备步骤可包含例如，任选地，如图2中所示在钟表部件1上沉积第一材料以形成第一子层2的第一步骤。优选地，第一子层2覆盖钟表部件1的所有表面。这种第一子层2可以本领域技术人员已知的方式通过电沉积法沉积。如下文看出，也可以有利地使用PVD沉积。
第一子层2特别形成保护性子层，当制备步骤a)包含金刚石抛光步骤时，这是必要的。这一步骤包括如图3中所示使用金刚石工具在将从钟表外可见的钟表部件1的表面上形成斜的表面或小平面3。这种机械处理赋予钟表部件1明亮地闪烁的外观。在金刚石抛光后，如图4中所示已从钟表部件1表面上除去第一子层2。与金刚石抛光类似的其它操作也是可行的(缎光处理(satin finishing)、太阳纹打磨(sunray brushing)、打磨(brushing)或亮光化(brightening)。
第一子层2也促进要安置在钟表部件1上的其它层的粘合。
制备步骤a)还可包括清洁在金刚石抛光后获得的钟表部件1的步骤。以本领域技术人员已知的方式，可以例如通过化学去脂接着自来水和软化水冲洗实现该清洁步骤。然后将部件1干燥并准备好实施第二沉积步骤b)。
所述第二沉积步骤b)包括在制备步骤a)中获得的钟表部件1上沉积第二材料以形成第二子层4。这种第二子层4特别形成第二防腐蚀子层。其也促进装饰层5粘合到钟表部件1上。可以有利地选择这种第二子层4的颜色以接近装饰层5的颜色以避免在所述装饰层5受到磨损时的可见反差。
然后，在着色步骤c)中，在第二沉积步骤b)中获得的钟表部件1上沉积第三有色材料以形成有色外装饰层5。
根据本发明，至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)通过物理气相沉积法(PVD)实现。
根据本发明的方法装饰的钟表部件包含具有特别均匀的颜色的外装饰层5，以使报废率非常低。
以特别有利的方式，第二子层4和装饰层5仅沉积在金刚石抛光的表面3和钟表部件的侧面上。但是，如果也希望在该部件的背面上存在第二子层4和装饰层5，也可以在着色步骤c)的过程中提供翻转该部件或使用能在钟表部件的两面上PVD沉积的设备的步骤。
优选地，步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤也通过物理气相沉积法而非电沉积法实现。
根据一个特别优选的实施方案，该物理气相沉积法可以是阴极溅射法。溅射气体是惰性的，通常氩气。由本领域技术人员确定PVD沉积参数以符合所选功能和/或模型所需的颜色和质量标准。
本发明的方法还可包括在实施第二沉积步骤b)之前的离子活化步骤。由本领域技术人员确定离子活化参数。离子活化确保直接沉积在钟表部件1的金刚石抛光表面3(其在金刚石抛光操作过程中磨光(strip))上的第二子层4的完美附着。
以特别优选的方式，至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)，和任选制备步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤在能够实现本发明的方法的简单和经济的工业实施的相同设施中在不破坏真空条件的情况下实现。
有利地，选择第一材料以使第一子层2保护钟表部件1和/或促进第二子层4和有色外装饰层5的粘合。同样地，选择第二材料以使第二子层4保护钟表部件1免受腐蚀和/或促进有色外装饰层5的粘合。优选地，至少第二材料是防腐蚀材料。
优选地，第一材料和/或第二材料可选自镍、铬、不锈钢、锡、贵金属及其合金(例如Cr/Ni(例如Inconel)、Sn/Ni或Pd/Ni的合金)。
第一材料和/或第二材料可包含0重量％至100重量％的量的镍。
特别地，第一材料可以是镍。
根据另一实施方案，第一和/或第二材料可以是含有20重量％至80重量％，优选30重量％至70重量％的量的铬的铬和镍的合金。
如果在不破坏真空条件的情况下实现该方法，第一材料优选与第二材料相同，这使该方法更合理。
优选地，第二子层4可具有200纳米至1500纳米的厚度。
更通常，第二子层4的组成和厚度适应钟表部件1的材料和第三材料的性质。
有利地，第三有色材料可选自贵金属及其合金，或固有地长时间稳定的材料，如铝及其合金，和陶瓷。该陶瓷可以是有色的，如氮化钛，或透明的以暴露出第二子层的颜色。
特别地，第三有色材料可选自金、银、钯、铂、铑及其合金。
以特别有利的方式，第三有色材料是18k 5N金合金，或包含75重量％至77.5重量％金、1.2重量％至1.6重量％钯和20.1重量％至23.8重量％铜的无镍无钴的18.5k金合金。CH专利705653(其内容经此引用并入本专利申请)描述了这样的固体合金具有改进的变色特征。
这种合金特别优选用于通过PVD施加有色外装饰层，因为其提供除具有均匀颜色和就第三材料的细度(fineness)而言恒定细度外还具有比由通过电沉积法沉积的相同合金获得的层更好的抗变色和锈蚀性的装饰层。此外，根据本发明的方法获得的装饰层的耐腐蚀性高于固体合金。
有色外装饰层5优选具有100纳米至1500纳米的厚度。
本发明的方法能够工业生产表现出以可靠和可重复的方式沉积的优质有色装饰层的钟表部件。此外，可以使用具有许多颜色的许多合金制造非常多种多样的有色装饰层。
下列实施例例示本发明而不由此限制其范围。
实施例
从黄铜上切出的指针通过电沉积法涂布镍的第一子层2并金刚石抛光。然后用洗涤剂清洁该指针。
然后将由此制成的指针定位在市售PVD/溅射机的基底支架上。将它们间隔开以允许等离子体通过。
然后进行PVD处理。没有加热阶段以不使指针变形。
在指针离子活化后，在氩气下沉积第二镍和铬基子层4，然后金合金装饰层5。该金合金是CH专利705653中描述的包含75重量％至77.5重量％金、1.2重量％至1.6重量％钯和20.1重量％至23.8重量％铜的无镍无钴的18.5k合金。选择PVD参数以沉积1微米镍和铬基第二子层4和0.5微米金合金装饰层5。
根据本发明的方法处理的指针具有非常均匀的颜色以使报废率通常小于1％。
作为比较，以与本发明类似的方式但在通过电沉积实现第二沉积步骤b)和通过PVD实现着色步骤c)的方法中处理指针，其中有色外装饰层由CH专利705653中描述的相同18.5k金合金制成。这些指针通常具有高于5％的废品率。
还作为比较，其中有色外装饰层由18k 5N金制成并以与本发明类似的方式但借助仅使用电沉积(包括步骤b)和c))的方法处理的指针具有高于5％的废品率。

Claims (16)

1.装饰钟表部件(1)的方法，其包括：
a)包括在钟表部件(1)上沉积第一材料以形成完全覆盖钟表部件(1)的全部表面的第一子层(2)，金刚石抛光、缎光处理、太阳纹打磨、打磨或亮光化以从钟表部件(1)的一个或多个表面上除去第一子层(2)的第一步骤的钟表部件(1)的制备步骤，
b)在由制备步骤a)中获得的钟表部件(1)上沉积第二材料以形成完全覆盖并直接物理接触从钟表部件(1)表面上除去第一子层(2)所得到的表面的第二子层(4)、从而使得钟表部件(1)的全部表面接触第一材料或第二材料的第二步骤，
c)包括在在第二沉积步骤b)中获得的钟表部件(1)上沉积第三有色材料以形成有色外装饰层(5)的着色步骤，
其特征在于至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)通过物理气相沉积法(PVD)实现。
2.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于制备步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤通过物理气相沉积法实现。
3.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于选择第一材料以使第一子层(2)保护钟表部件(1)和/或促进第二子层(4)和有色外装饰层(5)的粘合。
4.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于选择第二材料以使第二子层(4)保护钟表部件(1)免受腐蚀和/或促进有色外装饰层(5)的粘合。
5.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于选择第二材料以使第二子层(4)的颜色接近有色外装饰层(5)的颜色。
6.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于第一材料和/或第二材料选自镍、铬、不锈钢、锡、贵金属及其合金。
7.根据权利要求6的方法，其特征在于第一材料和/或第二材料是镍和铬的合金，铬的量为20重量％至80重量％。
8.根据权利要求7的方法，其特征在于第一材料和/或第二材料是镍和铬的合金，铬的量为30重量％至70重量％。
9.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于第二子层(4)具有200纳米至1500纳米的厚度。
10.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于第三有色材料选自贵金属及其合金、铝及其合金，和陶瓷。
11.根据权利要求10的方法，其特征在于第三有色材料选自金、银、钯、铂、铑及其合金。
12.根据权利要求11的方法，其特征在第三有色材料是含有75重量％至77.5重量％金、1.2重量％至1.6重量％钯和20.1重量％至23.8重量％铜的无镍无钴的金合金。
13.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于有色外装饰层(5)具有100纳米至1500纳米的厚度。
14.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于所述物理气相沉积法是阴极溅射法。
15.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于至少第二沉积步骤b)和着色步骤c)，和任选制备步骤a)中的第一沉积步骤在不破坏真空条件的情况下实现。
16.根据权利要求1的方法，其特征在于钟表部件(1)选自指针、嵌花、表盘、凸缘、表框、表冠、按钮、摆轮锤、轮、主机板和夹板。
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