WO2010095223A1 - パイル編物及びそれを用いた縫製品 - Google Patents
パイル編物及びそれを用いた縫製品 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2010095223A1 WO2010095223A1 PCT/JP2009/052800 JP2009052800W WO2010095223A1 WO 2010095223 A1 WO2010095223 A1 WO 2010095223A1 JP 2009052800 W JP2009052800 W JP 2009052800W WO 2010095223 A1 WO2010095223 A1 WO 2010095223A1
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- pile
- knitted fabric
- stitch pattern
- pattern
- pile knitted
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
- D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
- D10B2403/0112—One smooth surface, e.g. laminated or coated
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a pile knitted fabric. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a pile knitted fabric that looks patternless in a flat state and develops a pattern when made non-flat in a sewing or worn state.
- a general pile fabric sewing product using a raised pile fabric as described in Patent Document 1 is not stationary even when wrinkles or wrinkles occur due to movement such as walking or shaking of the wind when worn.
- the design of the fabric is less changed and the design is poor.
- in the pile knitted fabric of the three-flying structure described in Patent Document 2 there are a loop of the ground yarn alone and a loop of the ground yarn knitted with a sliver in the knitting direction of the knit structure, but the density of the pile fiber is sparse.
- the stitch pattern does not appear just by becoming. Rather, when the stitch pattern appears, it looks uneven, and it looks bad and reduces the commercial value.
- the present invention provides a pile knitted fabric in which a pattern appears in a flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, and a pattern appears when the flat state is sewn or worn.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention is a pile knitted fabric including a ground fabric and pile fibers raised from the ground tissue, wherein the pile knitted fabric is knitted in the stitches of the ground tissue and raised fibers,
- the pile knitted fabric has a pile length of 6 to 25 mm, and a continuous length of the pile fiber portion that is knitted in the stitch of the ground texture is 10 mm or more.
- the width of the line of the stitch pattern composed only of the ground structure is 1 to 6 mm, and the continuous length of the line of the stitch pattern composed only of the ground structure is 10 mm or more.
- the ratio between the width of the stitch pattern line and the pile length is 0.09 to 0.30, and when the weft direction of the pile knitting is horizontal, the weft direction of the pile knitting And stitches composed only of the above ground organization Angle shown by an acute angle between like lines, characterized in that it is a 20 ⁇ 90 °.
- the sewing product of the present invention uses the pile knitted fabric of the present invention.
- FIG. 1A is a schematic diagram of a herringbone pattern that is an example of a stitch pattern
- FIG. 1B is a schematic diagram of a honeycomb pattern that is an example of a stitch pattern
- FIG. 1C is a schematic diagram of a staggered pattern that is an example of a stitch pattern
- FIG. 1D is a schematic diagram of a stripe pattern which is an example of a stitch pattern.
- FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a pile knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
- FIG. 3A shows a pattern in which a stitch 4 composed only of a ground structure between the raised portions 3 forms a herringbone (zigzag) pattern at an acute angle
- FIG. 3B is a diagram of the same knitting structure.
- FIG. 4A shows a pattern in which a herringbone (zigzag) pattern is formed at an obtuse angle compared to FIG. 3A
- FIG. 4B is the same organization chart.
- FIG. 5A shows a honeycomb pattern
- FIG. 5B is the same organization chart.
- FIG. 6A shows a pattern obtained by inverting the pattern of FIG. 4A
- FIG. 6B is the same organization chart.
- FIG. 7A shows a dotted diagonal lattice pattern
- FIG. 7B is the same organization chart.
- 8A is a schematic diagram of a stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1
- FIG. 8B is a schematic diagram of a stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 3
- 8C is a pile pattern of Comparative Example 2. It is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in a knitted fabric.
- 9A is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 4
- FIG. 9B is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 12
- FIG. 9C is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3.
- 9D is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 8
- FIG. 9E is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 9.
- 10A is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 5
- FIG. 10B is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 6, and FIG.
- 10C is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 7.
- 10D is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 5
- FIG. 10E is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 4.
- 11A is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 8
- FIG. 11B is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 9
- FIG. 11C is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 10.
- 11D is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 11 and Comparative Example 7,
- FIG. 11E is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6.
- FIG. 12A is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 10
- FIG. 12B is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 11
- FIG. 12C is a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 13.
- FIG. 12D is a schematic diagram of a stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 14.
- FIG. 13 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a method for observing the pile knitted fabric of the present invention in a non-flat state.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention includes pile fibers that are knitted and stitched in the stitches of the ground structure, and the stitches of the ground texture only, and the pile length of the pile knitted fabric is 6 to 25 mm,
- the continuous length of the pile fiber part knitted and knitted in the stitch is 10 mm or more, and the width of the line of the stitch pattern composed only of the ground structure is 1 to 6 mm.
- the continuous length of the line of the stitch pattern that is configured is 10 mm or more, and the ratio of the width of the stitch pattern that is configured only by the ground structure to the pile length is 0.09 to 0.30.
- the stitch pattern composed of only the above-mentioned ground texture (hereinafter also referred to simply as a stitch pattern) is invisible or inconspicuous when viewed from the pile fiber side, and is manifested when it is in a non-flat state. That is, the pattern appears to be flat in the flat state, and the pattern appears when the non-flat state is sewn or worn. This pattern is a hidden pattern by a stitch pattern.
- the stitch pattern is not particularly limited.
- the combination pattern etc. are mentioned.
- the stitch pattern can be regarded as a pattern composed of lines.
- FIGS. 1A to 1D show schematic diagrams of a herringbone pattern, a honeycomb pattern, a staggered pattern, and a stripe pattern constituted by lines.
- the line is not particularly limited, and includes various forms of lines such as a straight line, a wavy line, a zigzag line, and a curved line.
- the line width of the stitch pattern is 1 to 6 mm, preferably 1.3 to 6 mm.
- the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more easily developed in a non-flat state such as a curve.
- the width of the stitch pattern line is, for example, the width indicated by a1 to b1 in FIGS. 1A to 1D.
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is 10 mm or more, preferably 15 mm or more. If the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is 10 mm or more, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more easily developed in a non-flat state such as a curve.
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is, for example, the length indicated by a2 to b2 in FIGS. 1A to 1D. In the case of the honeycomb pattern shown in FIG. 1B, the line of the stitch pattern has a continuous length in the two vertical and diagonal directions.
- the ratio of the line width of the stitch pattern to the pile length is 0.09 to 0.30, preferably 0.10 to 0.25.
- the ratio of the line width of the stitch pattern to the pile length refers to the ratio of the line width / pile length of the stitch pattern. If the ratio of the line width of the stitch pattern to the pile length is 0.09 to 0.30, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more likely to appear in a non-flat state such as being curved. .
- the angle indicated by an acute angle between the weft direction of the pile knitted fabric and the line of the stitch pattern composed only of the ground structure is 20 to It is 90 °, preferably 40 to 80 °. Within this range, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more likely to appear in a non-flat state such as being curved.
- the stitch with only the above-mentioned ground structure is preferably 15 to 55% of the whole stitch, and more preferably 20 to 45%. Within this range, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more likely to appear in a non-flat state such as being curved.
- the continuous length of the pile fiber portion (hereinafter simply referred to as “pile fiber portion”) knitted into the stitches of the above-mentioned ground texture is 10 mm or more, and preferably 15 mm or more. Within this range, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more likely to appear in a non-flat state such as being curved.
- the continuous length of a pile fiber part means the longest length among the lengths of the pile fiber part pinched
- the width of the pile fiber portion is preferably 1.5 mm or more, more preferably 1.5 to 30 mm. If the thickness is 1.5 mm or more, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more easily developed in a non-flat state such as being curved.
- the width of the pile fiber portion refers to the shortest length among the lengths of the pile fiber portions sandwiched by the stitches composed only of the ground structure. For example, in the schematic diagrams of the stitch pattern shown in FIGS. 1A to 1D, it refers to the length between c2 and d2.
- the pile length of the pile knitted fabric is 6 to 25 mm, preferably 10 to 22 mm. Within this range, the stitch pattern is more easily concealed in a flat state, and the stitch pattern is more likely to appear in a non-flat state such as being curved.
- the pile length refers to the length from the root of the pile fiber (the root of the surface of the pile knitted fabric) to the tip of the pile fiber when the pile fibers of the pile knitted fabric stand vertically so as to align the fur.
- the above-mentioned sewing product only needs to use the pile knitted fabric of the present invention, and includes, for example, a coat, a jacket, a vest, a dress, a shirt and the like.
- the angle indicated by the acute angle between the weft direction of the sewn product and the line of the stitch pattern composed only of the ground structure is 20 to It is 90 °, preferably 40 to 80 °. If it is this range, a pattern will appear in the body part and the sleeve part due to the movement of the trunk when wearing the sewn product, shaking by the wind, or the swing of the arm during walking.
- FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a pile knitted fabric in one embodiment of the present invention.
- the pile knitted fabric 10 includes a ground structure 1, a pile fiber 2, a raised portion 3 in which the pile fibers 2 are gathered, and a stitch 4 composed only of the ground texture, and a backing agent 5 is applied to the back surface of the ground texture.
- the pile knitted fabric 10 when viewed from the pile fiber side, the pile fiber 2 is raised in the raised portion 3 in a flat state, so that the stitch pattern formed by the stitch 4 composed only of the ground structure is hidden or cannot be seen. Absent. However, the stitch pattern appears in a non-flat state such as a curve.
- FIG. 3 to 7 are actual plan views illustrating the stitch pattern composed of only the ground structure.
- FIG. 3A shows a pattern in which a stitch 4 composed only of a ground structure between the raised portions 3 forms a herringbone (zigzag) pattern at an acute angle
- FIG. 3B is a diagram of the same knitting structure.
- 4A shows a pattern in which a herringbone (zigzag) pattern is formed at an obtuse angle compared to FIG. 3A
- FIG. 4B is the same organization chart.
- FIG. 5A shows a honeycomb pattern
- FIG. 5B is the same organization chart.
- 6A shows a pattern obtained by inverting the pattern of FIG. 5A
- FIG. 6B is the same organization chart.
- FIG. 7A shows a dotted diagonal lattice pattern
- FIG. 7B is the same organization chart.
- the pile knitted fabric may be any knitted fabric such as warp knitting, flat knitting or circular knitting. Among these, a sliver knit using a fiber yarn for the ground structure and a sliver (fiber bundle) for the pile fiber is preferable.
- the fiber yarn used as the ground structure is not particularly limited as long as it is used for pile knitting.
- spun fibers such as polyester, acrylic, vinyl chloride, polypropylene, and polyethylene
- filament fibers such as cotton
- spun fibers such as cotton can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- the fiber used for the sliver is not particularly limited as long as it is used for pile knitting.
- Examples include nylon, polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, vinyl chloride, synthetic fibers such as polypropylene and polyethylene, artificial fibers such as rayon and acetate, and natural fibers such as cotton and wool. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. It can be used by mixing.
- the fiber type, fineness, fiber length, and the like of the fiber used for the sliver can be arbitrarily selected according to the characteristics of the product, but the hue may be mixed with the dyed fiber and the original fiber according to the application.
- sliver knit knitting sliver fibers are knitted at the same time using fiber yarn, and sliver fibers are knitted into a U-shape to form pile fibers.
- a stitch 4 having only a ground structure is knitted as shown in FIG. 2, and a specific stitch pattern, for example, FIGS.
- a stitch pattern as shown in FIG. This can be controlled by applying a pattern knitting mechanism such as a pattern wheel, a drum and a computer system.
- the back surface of the knitted fabric is coated with a backing agent to fix pile fibers.
- the backing agent is not particularly limited as long as it is used for pile knitted fabrics.
- polyacrylic acid ester polyvinyl acetate, acrylic acid ester, and vinyl acetate copolymer
- the pile fiber may be dyed, sheared (hair length alignment), polisher ring (hair heat treatment), or the like.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained as described above.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention has an effect that a stitch pattern composed of only the above-mentioned ground structure is expressed in a non-flat state such as a curved shape when viewed from the pile fiber side, and in a non-flat state such as curved, Are better.
- the stitch pattern does not appear in a stationary state, but the stitch pattern is manifested by an action such as walking, and the design is excellent.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention since the pile knitted fabric of the present invention partially pulls out the pile fiber, the basis weight (weight per unit area) can be reduced, and the knitted fabric can be made comfortable. In general, when using natural fur or faux fur as outerwear such as overs and coats, there are problems such as heavy weight and stiff shoulders, but the pile knitted fabric of the present invention has some pile fibers removed. The overall weight is light and comfortable to wear.
- the basis weight of the pile knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 300 to 550 g / m 2 .
- the pile fiber of the pile knitted fabric was erected vertically using a vernier caliper, and the length from the root of the pile fiber (the root of the pile knitted surface) to the tip of the pile fiber was measured.
- Example 1 First, a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton. Next, using a ground yarn (fineness: 165 dtex) made of the sliver and polyester fiber, a pile knitted fabric in which the stitch pattern composed only of the ground texture was a stripe pattern was obtained with a high pile knitting machine.
- Kanekaron AH fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- the width of the stitch pattern line is 1.3 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is 400 mm
- the weft direction of the pile knitted fabric is horizontal
- the weft of the pile knitted fabric was 90 °
- the pile fiber portion had a continuous length of 400 mm and a width of 11.7 mm.
- FIG. 8A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 1 is shown.
- Example 2 A pile knitted fabric of Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as Example 1 except that the pile length was 8 mm and the finish basis weight was 390 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 8A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 2 is shown.
- Example 3 A pile knitted fabric of Example 3 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 2.2 mm, the pile length was 8 mm, and the finish basis weight was 340 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 8B the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 3 is shown.
- Example 4 First, a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton. Next, using a ground yarn (fineness: 165 dtex) made of the sliver and polyester fiber, a pile knitted fabric having a staggered pattern of stitches composed only of the ground structure was obtained by a high pile knitting machine. The width of the stitch pattern line was 1.3 mm, the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 10 mm, and the angle of the stitch pattern line was 90 °. The pile fiber portion had a continuous length of 400 mm and a width of 4.5 mm.
- FIG. 9A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 4 is shown.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a herringbone pattern as a stitch pattern composed only of the ground texture was obtained using a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line was 2.2 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 100 mm
- the angle of the stitch pattern line was 70 °.
- the pile fiber portion had a continuous length of 105 mm and a width of 7.8 mm.
- FIG. 10A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 5 is shown.
- Example 6 A pile knitted fabric of Example 6 was obtained in the same manner as Example 5 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 4.0 mm and the finish basis weight was 340 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 10B the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 6 is shown.
- Example 7 A pile knitted fabric of Example 7 was obtained in the same manner as Example 5 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was set to 5.2 mm and the finish basis weight was set to 320 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 10C shows a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 7.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a honeycomb pattern as a stitch pattern composed only of the ground texture was obtained with a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line is 2.3 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is 19 in the oblique direction and 10 mm in the longitudinal direction
- the angle of the stitch pattern line is 40 ° and 90 °.
- the pile fiber portion had a continuous length of 27 mm and a width of 22 mm.
- FIG. 11A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 8 is shown.
- Example 9 A pile knitted fabric of Example 9 was obtained in the same manner as Example 8 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 3.3 mm and the finish basis weight was 450 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 11B the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 9 is shown.
- Example 10 A pile knitted fabric of Example 10 was obtained in the same manner as Example 8 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 4.7 mm and the finish basis weight was 430 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 11C the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 10 is shown.
- Example 11 A pile knitted fabric of Example 11 was obtained in the same manner as Example 8 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 6.0 mm and the finish basis weight was 410 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 11D shows a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 11.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a staggered pattern of stitches composed only of the ground structure was obtained by a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line was 1.3 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 400 mm
- the angle of the stitch pattern line was 90 °.
- the pile fiber part had a continuous length of 10 mm and a width of 1.5 mm.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a herringbone pattern as a stitch pattern composed only of the ground texture was obtained using a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line was 6.0 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 50 mm
- the angle of the stitch pattern line was 20 °.
- the pile fiber part had a continuous length of 50 mm and a width of 30 mm.
- FIG. 12C shows a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 13.
- Example 14 A pile knitted fabric of Example 14 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 13 except that the angle of the line of the stitch pattern was 80 ° and the finish basis weight was 400 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 12D shows a schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Example 14.
- Comparative Example 1 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the pile length was 5 mm and the finish basis weight was 310 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 8A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 1 is shown.
- Comparative Example 2 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 4.0 mm, the pile length was 8 mm, and the finish basis weight was 300 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 8C the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 2 is shown.
- Comparative Example 3 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 7 mm and the finish basis weight was 370 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 9C the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 3 is shown.
- Comparative Example 4 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 4 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 1.3 mm and the finish basis weight was 440 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 10E the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 4 is shown.
- Comparative Example 5 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 5 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 6.5 mm and the finish basis weight was 300 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 10D the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 5 is shown.
- Comparative Example 6 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 8, except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 7.0 mm and the finish basis weight was 390 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 11E shows a schematic diagram of a stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6.
- Comparative Example 7 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 7 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 8, except that the line width of the stitch pattern was 6.0 mm, the pile length was 30 mm, and the finish basis weight was 450 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 11D shows a schematic diagram of a stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 7.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a staggered pattern (3 jumps) is obtained by a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line was 1.3 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 400 mm
- the angle of the stitch pattern line was 90 °.
- the pile fiber part had a continuous length of 1 mm and a width of 1.5 mm.
- FIG. 9D the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 8 is shown.
- Comparative Example 9 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 9 was obtained in the same manner as Comparative Example 8, except that the continuous length of the pile fiber portion was 8 mm and the finish basis weight was 290 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 9E the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 9 is shown.
- a sliver was produced using Kanekaron AH (fineness: 3.3 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm) raw cotton.
- a ground yarn fineness: 165 dtex
- a pile knitted fabric having a border pattern as a stitch pattern composed only of the ground texture was obtained with a high pile knitting machine.
- the width of the stitch pattern line was 6.0 mm
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line was 50 mm
- the angle of the stitch pattern line was 0 °.
- the pile fiber part had a continuous length of 50 mm and a width of 30 mm.
- FIG. 12A the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 10 is shown.
- Comparative Example 11 A pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 11 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 13 except that the angle of the line of the stitch pattern was 10 ° and the finish basis weight was 420 g / m 2 .
- FIG. 12B the schematic diagram of the stitch pattern in the pile knitted fabric of the comparative example 11 is shown.
- the pile knitted fabric 10 is piled on three rolls 7 to 9 having a radius of 50 mm (50R), 25 mm (25R), and 5 mm (5R) as shown in FIG.
- the fibers were arranged so that the fibers were parallel to the length direction of the roll, and observed from the pile fiber side, and judged as follows. This observation method assumes the human arm, shoulders or legs. From such measurement, it can be determined whether or not a stitch pattern composed of only the ground structure is visible due to movement when worn on the human body.
- B The pattern can be recognized.
- C The pattern cannot be recognized.
- the pile knitted fabric in which the pattern can be recognized in the flat state shows a state in which the pattern is expressed in the sewing product even in the stationary state, and the design is poor.
- a pile knitted fabric that can recognize a pattern in a non-flat state curved by a roll having a radius of 50 mm or that can recognize a pattern is excellent in design, and can be used on the body part of a sewn product, resulting in movement of the body or wind. The pattern appears on the body part by shaking.
- the pile knitted fabric which can recognize a pattern in a non-flat state curved by a roll with a radius of 25 mm or can recognize a pattern is excellent in design, and can be used for a sleeve portion of a sewn product, thereby swinging an arm during walking. A pattern appears on the sleeve.
- the pile knitted fabric which can recognize a pattern in the non-flat state curved by the roll of radius 5mm, or can recognize a pattern somewhat is poor in design property, and when it is used for a sewing product, the fine which generate
- the pile length was 6 to 25 mm
- the line width of the stitch pattern was 1 to 6 mm
- the line width / pile length of the stitch pattern was 0. 09 to 0.30
- the continuous length of the stitch pattern line is 10 mm or more
- the angle of the stitch pattern line is 20 to 90 °
- the continuous length of the pile fiber portion is 10 mm or more.
- the pile length is less than 6 mm, and the stitch pattern is observed even in a flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, indicating that the change is poor and the design is inferior.
- the pile length exceeds 25 mm, and the stitch pattern is observed even when the pile fiber is not flat when viewed from the pile fiber side, for example, even when curved using a roll having a radius of 25 mm. Therefore, it is understood that the design is poor and the design is poor.
- the line width / pile length of the stitch pattern exceeds 0.30, and the stitch pattern is observed even in a flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, the change is poor, and the design property is inferior.
- the width of the stitch pattern / pile length is less than 0.09, and even if it is in a non-flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, it is bent using, for example, a roll having a radius of 25 mm.
- the stitch pattern is not observed, the change is poor, and the design property is inferior.
- the continuous length of the line of the stitch pattern is less than 10 mm, and the stitch pattern can be made non-flat when viewed from the pile fiber side, for example, curved using a roll having a radius of 25 mm. Is not observed, it is understood that the change is poor and the design is inferior.
- the width of the stitch pattern line exceeds 6 mm, and the width / pile length of the stitch pattern line exceeds 0.30, and the stitch pattern is flat even when viewed from the pile fiber side. It is observed that the change is poor and the design is inferior. Further, in the pile knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6, the line width of the stitch pattern exceeds 6 mm, and the stitch pattern is observed even in a flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, indicating that the change is poor and the design property is inferior.
- the continuous length of the pile fiber portion is less than 10 mm, and even when the pile fiber portion is not flat when viewed from the pile fiber side, for example, curved using a roll having a radius of 25 mm, It can be seen that the pattern is not observed, the change is poor, and the design is inferior.
- the angle of the line of the stitch pattern is less than 20 °, even if it is in a non-flat state when viewed from the pile fiber side, for example, curved using a roll having a radius of 25 mm, It can be seen that the stitch pattern is not observed, the change is poor, and the design is inferior.
- the pile knitted fabric of the present invention is rich in design and is useful as a fake fur.
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Abstract
Description
ノギスを用いて、パイル編物のパイル繊維を毛並みが揃うように垂直に立たせた後、パイル繊維の根元(パイル編物表面の根元)からパイル繊維の先端までの長さを測定した。
ノギスを用いて、図1A~1Dに示しているように、パイル編物における編目模様の線の幅及び連続長さ、並びにパイル繊維部分の連続長さ及び幅を測定した。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様がストライプ模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は1.3mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは400mmであり、上記パイル編物の緯(よこ)方向を水平にした場合、上記パイル編物の緯(よこ)方向と上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線との間の鋭角で示される角度(以下、単に編目模様の線の角度という。)は90°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは400mmであり、幅は11.7mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が6mmであり、仕上げ目付が340g/m2である、実施例1のパイル編物を得た。図8Aに、実施例1のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
パイル長を8mmにし、仕上げ目付を390g/m2にした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、実施例2のパイル編物を得た。図8Aに、実施例2のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を2.2mmにし、パイル長を8mmにし、仕上げ目付を340g/m2にした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、実施例3のパイル編物を得た。図8Bに、実施例3のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様が千鳥模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は1.3mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは10mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は90°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは400mmであり、幅は4.5mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が8mmであり、仕上げ目付が370g/m2である、実施例4のパイル編物を得た。図9Aに、実施例4のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様がヘリンボーン模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は2.2mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは100mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は70°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは105mmであり、幅は7.8mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が18mmであり、仕上げ目付が410g/m2である、実施例5のパイル編物を得た。図10Aに、実施例5のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を4.0mmにし、仕上げ目付を340g/m2にした以外は、実施例5と同様にして、実施例6のパイル編物を得た。図10Bに、実施例6のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を5.2mmにし、仕上げ目付を320g/m2にした以外は、実施例5と同様にして、実施例7のパイル編物を得た。図10Cに、実施例7のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様がハニカム模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は2.3mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは、斜め方向において19、縦方向において10mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は40°及び90°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは27mmであり、幅は22mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が25mmであり、仕上げ目付520g/m2である、実施例8のパイル編物を得た。図11Aに、実施例8のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を3.3mmにし、仕上げ目付を450g/m2にした以外は、実施例8と同様にして、実施例9のパイル編物を得た。図11Bに、実施例9のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を4.7mmにし、仕上げ目付を430g/m2にした以外は、実施例8と同様にして、実施例10のパイル編物を得た。図11Cに、実施例10のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を6.0mmにし、仕上げ目付を410g/m2にした以外は、実施例8と同様にして、実施例11のパイル編物を得た。図11Dに、実施例11のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様が千鳥模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は1.3mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは400mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は90°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは10mmであり、幅は1.5mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が8mmであり、仕上げ目付が300g/m2である、実施例12のパイル編物を得た。図9Bに、実施例12のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様がヘリンボーン模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は6.0mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは50mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は20°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは50mmであり、幅は30mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が25mmであり、仕上げ目付が410g/m2である、実施例13のパイル編物を得た。図12Cに、実施例13のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の角度を80°にし、仕上げ目付を400g/m2にした以外は実施例13と同様にして、実施例14のパイル編物を得た。図12Dに、実施例14のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
パイル長を5mmにし、仕上げ目付を310g/m2にした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、比較例1のパイル編物を得た。図8Aに、比較例1のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を4.0mmにし、パイル長を8mmにし、仕上げ目付を300g/m2にした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、比較例2のパイル編物を得た。図8Cに、比較例2のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の連続長さを7mmにし、仕上げ目付を370g/m2にした以外は、実施例4と同様にして、比較例3のパイル編物を得た。図9Cに、比較例3のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を1.3mmにし、仕上げ目付を440g/m2にした以外は、実施例5と同様にして、比較例4のパイル編物を得た。図10Eに、比較例4のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を6.5mmにし、仕上げ目付を300g/m2にした以外は、実施例5と同様にして、比較例5のパイル編物を得た。図10Dに、比較例5のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を7.0mmにし、仕上げ目付を390g/m2にした以外は、実施例8と同様にして、比較例6のパイル編物を得た。図11Eに、比較例6のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の幅を6.0mmにし、パイル長を30mmにし、仕上げ目付を450g/m2にした以外は、実施例8と同様にして、比較例7のパイル編物を得た。図11Dに、比較例7のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様が千鳥模様(3飛び)であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は1.3mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは400mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は90°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは1mmであり、幅は1.5mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が8mmであり、仕上げ目付が250g/m2である、比較例8のパイル編物を得た。図9Dに、比較例8のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
パイル繊維部分の連続長さを8mmにし、仕上げ目付を290g/m2にした以外は、比較例8と同様にして、比較例9のパイル編物を得た。図9Eに、比較例9のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
先ず、カネカロンAH(繊度:3.3dtex、繊維長:38mm)原綿を用いてスライバーを作製した。次に、上記スライバーとポリエステル繊維からなる地糸(繊度:165dtex)を用いて、ハイパイル編機により、上記地組織のみで構成される編目模様がボーダー模様であるパイル編物を得た。上記編目模様の線の幅は6.0mmであり、上記編目模様の線の連続長さは50mmであり、上記編目模様の線の角度は0°であった。また、上記パイル繊維部分の連続長さは50mmであり、幅は30mmであった。続いて、パイル編物の裏面にアクリル酸エステル系の接着剤を塗布して、125℃で乾燥させた後、エレクトロポリッシャ、ブラッシング、シャーリングをへて、パイル長が25mmであり、仕上げ目付が420g/m2である、比較例10のパイル編物を得た。図12Aに、比較例10のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
編目模様の線の角度を10°にし、仕上げ目付を420g/m2にした以外は、実施例13と同様にして、比較例11のパイル編物を得た。図12Bに、比較例11のパイル編物における編目模様の模式図を示している。
平坦状態での編目模様を、パイル繊維側から観察して以下のように判断した。
A:模様が認識できる
B:やや模様が認識できる
C:模様が認識できない
非平坦状態での編目模様を、図13に示しているように、パイル編物10を、それぞれ半径50mm(50R)、25mm(25R)及び5mm(5R)のロール7~9の3本に、パイル繊維の毛並みがロールの長さ方向に平行になるように配置して、パイル繊維側から観察し、以下のように判断した。この観察方法は、人体の腕、肩ないしは脚周りを想定したものである。このような測定により、人体に着用したとき、動きなどにより地組織のみで構成される編目模様が見えるか否かが判断できる。
A:模様が認識できる
B:やや模様が認識できる
C:模様が認識できない
意匠性有:平坦状態での編目模様の観察結果がB又はCであり、半径25mmのロールにより湾曲した非平坦状態での編目模様の観察結果がA又はBである。
意匠性無:平坦状態での編目模様の観察結果がAであるか、又は平坦状態及び半径25mmのロールにより湾曲した非平坦状態での編目模様の観察結果がCである。
2 パイル繊維
3 立毛部
4 地組織のみで構成される編目
5 バッキング樹脂
6 パイル繊維が編みこまれた編目
7、8、9 ロール
10 パイル編物
11 地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線
12 パイル繊維部分
Claims (5)
- 地組織と前記地組織から立毛しているパイル繊維を含むパイル編物であって、
前記パイル編物は、前記地組織の編目に編み込まれて立毛しているパイル繊維と、前記地組織のみの編目を含み、
前記パイル編物のパイル長は、6~25mmであり、
前記地組織の編目に編み込まれて立毛しているパイル繊維部分の連続長さは、10mm以上であり、
前記地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線の幅は、1~6mmであり、
前記地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線の連続長さは、10mm以上であり、
前記地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線の幅とパイル長の比は、0.09~0.30であり、
前記パイル編物の緯(よこ)方向を水平にした場合、前記パイル編物の緯(よこ)方向と前記地組織のみで構成される編目模様の線との間の鋭角で示される角度は、20~90°であることを特徴とするパイル編物。 - 前記地組織のみで構成される編目模様は、パイル繊維側から見て平坦状態では見えないか又は目立たず、非平坦状態にすると発現する請求項1に記載のパイル編物。
- 前記地組織のみの編目は、編目全体の15~55%である請求項1又は2に記載のパイル編物。
- 前記パイル編物は、スライバーニットである請求項1~3のいずれか一項に記載のパイル編物。
- 請求項1~4のいずれか一項に記載のパイル編物を用いた縫製品。
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US8397542B2 (en) * | 2009-02-18 | 2013-03-19 | Kaneka Corporation | Pile knitted fabric and sewn product employing pile knitted fabric |
US9657420B2 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2017-05-23 | Deckers Outdoor Corporation | Sheared wool weaving method |
US9719206B2 (en) | 2012-09-14 | 2017-08-01 | Under Armour, Inc. | Apparel with heat retention layer and method of making the same |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US8397542B2 (en) | 2013-03-19 |
RU2470099C1 (ru) | 2012-12-20 |
JP4510134B1 (ja) | 2010-07-21 |
US20110296875A1 (en) | 2011-12-08 |
JPWO2010095223A1 (ja) | 2012-08-16 |
CN101883884B (zh) | 2014-03-19 |
CN101883884A (zh) | 2010-11-10 |
UA98598C2 (ru) | 2012-05-25 |
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