Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
  • D01G99/00—Subject matter not provided for in other groups of this subclass

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the processing of cashmere fibres to obtain cashmere yarns and cashmere or cashmere - mix textile products, characterised by high quality in terms of fineness (count) , mechanical properties and purity.
• cashmere is a fibre obtained from a particular type of goat and, like all animal fibres, has physical properties directly affected by the collection period (by means of combing) , the breed and origin of the goats .
• Cashmere processing includes opening, carding, combing, stretching, twisting, spinning, double winding, twining, conditioning and weaving.
• Added to this chiefly mechanical processing are chiefly chemical steps such as dyeing and printing (using various types of dyes) or finishing (such as sanforising, teaseling, calendering, fulling, mercerising, starching, making crease-resistant, waterproofing) .
• cashmere yarns are widely used in particular for the production of knitwear textile products.
• the aim of the present invention is, therefore, to overcome these disadvantages by providing a process for the production of cashmere or cashmere - mix yarns and fabrics characterised by high level mechanical properties in terms of both durability when used and quality to the touch (softness, voluminosity) .
• FIG. 1 is a complete block diagram of a process for the production of cashmere yarns and fabrics in accordance with the invention
• - Figure 2 is a block diagram of the step of dyeing the fibres;
• - Figure 3 is a block diagram of the step of finishing the fabric .
• the fibres are selected according to criteria of greatest length, lowest micron category, and greatest quantity of cuticle scales per single fibre, to improve the mechanical properties of the finished yarn.
• choosing the raw material involves making a selection to maximise and standardise the properties which can be achieved, including: length, fineness, cleanness, coefficient of variation, mean height and number of scales, cuticle width.
• the rigorousness of the selection allows optimisation and standardisation of both the physical - mechanical and the chemical - physical properties of the fibres, which proved essential in order to produce the textile fibre (pure cashmere or silk blend) used to produce a yarn with a count of up to 200,000, having a high mean number of fibres per section, which thanks to the invention may even be 30 or more.
• any impurities are removed from the cashmere fibres through a customary kemp removal process then it is combed to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, also known as "tops".
• tops can be sent to a dye bath ( Figure 3) which advantageously is performed in controlled temperature and pressure conditions, and separately from the dyeing of any other fibres constituting the yarn, for example silk fibres.
• the tops are in the form of bobbins, or bumps, protected from the dye bath by a protective layer, or bag with micro-holes in it, permeable to the dye bath, in which the bobbins are immersed to limit the assault on the fibres by the dyeing agents and additives and to prevent loss of the parallelism of the fibres.
• the tops are washed and dried, the drying preferably being simultaneous with a straightening step.
• specific products are also used for cleaning such as solvent soaps used to treat the material in advance, and the use of conditioners which precede the step of drying by means of straightener and drier, in order to relax and distribute the fibres again after the dyeing step.
• the dried and washed tops can be spun to obtain a single yarn with cashmere fibre .
• a single yarn may be produced, of pure cashmere or cashmere mixed with other fibres, for example 70% cashmere fibres and 30% silk fibres.
• this first spinning step it is important to try to optimise and render uniform the mechanical and chemical - physical properties of the single yarn.
• continuous monitoring and adjustment of the environmental conditions is essential for processing the material in ideal temperature and pressure conditions .
• the spinning according to this invention may take place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure operating conditions.
• the processing used according to the invention through a repetition of the various spinning production steps, for example on the combing machine, guarantee standardisation and greater uniformity of the twisted yarn, even at the expense of processing speed and productivity.
• a step of weaving the yarns is performed which, according to the invention, takes place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure conditions, to improve the workability of the yarns and the end quality of the textile product.
• the fabric obtained is further treated to improve the properties which the user can perceive, that is to say, the quality to the touch.
• This processing ( Figure 2) is the finishing step in which, according to the invention, a process involving double decatising was set up.
• the weaving step is followed by a first step of stabilising through intermittent decatising (KD) performed in a kier under controlled temperature and pressure conditions, to prepare the fabric for the subsequent finishing step, consisting of washing and ennobling.
• KD intermittent decatising
• a decatising wrapper able to allow fabric fixing, preserve the physical - mechanical properties and enhance the aesthetic characteristics such as the elegance, practicality, exclusivity and the "handle” (softness and voluminosity to the touch, that is to say, when felt between the area of the palm next to the thumb and the fingers on the hand) , as well as improving functional properties such as lightness and heat regulating capacity unique to cashmere.
• Table 1 a table containing some properties characteristic of the yarn and the fabric obtained using the process disclosed, starting with a predetermined selected material and in predetermined environmental conditions .
• the yarn and the fabric obtained in this way have excellent mechanical properties, which make them suitable for the production of superior products such as sheets, pillowcases and other items.
• a process and a product according to the present invention may also have different applications and be modified without thereby departing from the scope of the inventive concept .

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Spinning Or Twisting Of Yarns (AREA)

Priority Applications (4)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=35911052

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (7)

Cited By (1)

Families Citing this family (5)

Citations (4)

Family Cites Families (4)

• 2005
  • 2005-10-24 IT IT000638A patent/ITBO20050638A1/it unknown
  • 2005-11-11 CN CNA2005800519154A patent/CN101297069A/zh active Pending
  • 2005-11-11 EP EP05802307A patent/EP1960573B1/de not_active Not-in-force
  • 2005-11-11 AT AT05802307T patent/ATE481516T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2005-11-11 JP JP2008536137A patent/JP2009512790A/ja active Pending
  • 2005-11-11 DE DE602005023669T patent/DE602005023669D1/de active Active
  • 2005-11-11 WO PCT/IB2005/003474 patent/WO2007049094A1/en active Application Filing

Patent Citations (4)

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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