US20200157712A1 - Anti-pilling cloth and method for manufacturing same - Google Patents

Anti-pilling cloth and method for manufacturing same Download PDF

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Publication number
US20200157712A1
US20200157712A1 US16/631,349 US201816631349A US2020157712A1 US 20200157712 A1 US20200157712 A1 US 20200157712A1 US 201816631349 A US201816631349 A US 201816631349A US 2020157712 A1 US2020157712 A1 US 2020157712A1
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Prior art keywords
cloth
fibers
pilling
fluff
singeing
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Toshitada SUEOKA
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Kowa Co Ltd
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Kowa Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D03D15/08—
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D03D2700/0103—
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an anti-pilling cloth containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers and to a method for manufacturing the same. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anti-pilling woven or knitted fabric containing spun yarn containing thermoplastic synthetic filaments and/or staple fibers and to a method for manufacturing the same.
  • Natural fibers are staple fibers with the exception of silk that are cut to a short length.
  • cotton has a length of about 20 mm to 35 mm and thickness of about 20 ⁇ m
  • merino wool has a length of about 7.5 mm to 120 mm and thickness of about 13 ⁇ m to 28 ⁇ m.
  • the staple fibers are unraveled and arranged so as to be combed out followed by twisting, bundling and spinning into yarn to obtain spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn has occasional fluff, is bulky and is characterized by being flexible and retaining heat.
  • synthetic fibers are normally produced in the form of filaments after having gone through spinning, and for example, numerous fibers such as polyester-based or polyamide-based fibers are produced by melt spinning, while acrylic-based fibers are produced by wet spinning.
  • regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon or cupra and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fibers are also produced in the form of filaments.
  • Synthetic fibers are also used as staple fibers by cutting synthetic fibers that have been produced in the form of filaments.
  • synthetic fibers are typically characterized by being lighter and tougher (strong and resistant to breakage) in comparison with natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, silk or wool, many natural fibers have a unique light and fluffy texture and are mainly preferably used as raw materials of clothing.
  • woven or knitted fabric should be woven or knitted with spun yarn of synthetic fibers in order to achieve the fluffy texture of natural fibers with synthetic fibers, woven or knitted fabric produced from spun yarn of synthetic fibers is known to be susceptible to the occurrence of pilling.
  • Pilling refers to the surface of a cloth being subjected to rubbing during the course of wearing or washing resulting in the formation of fluff on the cloth surface and leading to the fluff becoming entangled and forming small balls of fabric (pills), and when synthetic fibers such as polyester or polyamide fibers are included in the fibers in particular, pills form easily since the fibers are strong and resistant to breakage. Although it would be preferable if the pills simply fell off, since these synthetic fibers stretch without breaking when pulled, once a pill has formed it is difficult to remove, and together with impairing appearance, also promotes deterioration of the woven or knitted fabric. Consequently, in the case of producing woven or knitted fabric using spun yarn of synthetic fibers for applications such as clothing or products that undergo repeated laundering, measures for inhibiting the occurrence of pilling (namely, anti-pilling measures) are indispensable.
  • measures for inhibiting the occurrence of pilling namely, anti-pilling measures
  • felted fibers are reduced by moistening, beating and rubbing stiff gray fabric to generate fluff, the fibers are scraped to further generate fluff and then cut and subjected to raising that generates fluff, and raising effects were obtained that produced a gentler sensation than card clothing raising by card clothing that generates fluff by scratching the cloth surface with a card clothing roller equipped with metal needles or by rubbing the cloth surface with the thorns of thistle fruit using a technique known as thistle raising.
  • carded wool In order to obtain cloth having a smooth and soft feeling on the skin, moisture retention and a luxurious feel in the manner of natural cashmere or angora, extremely long fluff referred to as carded wool is produced at a high density by card clothing and raising woven or knitted fabric using yarn spun from synthetic staple fibers such as those of polyester or acrylic fibers.
  • emery processing chamois processing
  • emery paper a technique referred to as emery paper
  • sanding processing which is known as a technique for raising polyester woven fabric, also carries out raising with sandpaper, and multiple sandpaper rollers each having difference degrees of raising are superimposed vertically and rotated at low speed following by passing the cloth there between to rub and thinly raise the cloth.
  • shearing consisting of cutting fluff from the cloth surface is carried out to vividly express the woven structure or color pattern or adjust the appearance by cutting the fluff to a uniform length or cutting away randomly.
  • the following PTL1 discloses a knitted fabric for a shirt that is comprised of a knitted fabric obtained by forming polyester staple fibers having fineness of 1.0 denier to 2.5 denier and cotton fibers with a blended yarn, wherein the composition ratio of the cotton fibers in the aforementioned blended yarn is 75% to 90%, the twist factor is 3.0 to 4.5, and the knitted fabric is singed after being formed.
  • Citation 1 describes that if the composition ratio of the cotton fibers is less than 75% (namely, if the composition ratio of the polyester staple fibers exceeds 25%), in addition to the polyester staple fibers melting during singeing after forming resulting in a hard texture, there is also greater susceptibility to soiling.
  • the following PTL2 discloses a method for producing an animal hair-like cloth by forming melt balls of synthetic fibers by singeing the napped ends of raised cloth having a nap comprised of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers or acrylic fibers in order to obtain a soft texture in the manner of cashmere in the case of singeing synthetic fibers, followed by treating the napped ends with a solvent or hydrolytic agent of the synthetic fibers having a prescribed viscosity and subjecting to heat treatment to refine the napped ends.
  • synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers or acrylic fibers
  • PTL3 discloses an anti-pilling denim or dungaree woven fabric that uses spun yarn containing synthetic fibers, in which the amount of fluff per number of cross-sectional fibers has been reduced by a specific spinning method, and has been subjected to singeing and/or alkali reduction, wherein pilling resistance according to Method A of JIS L1076 (ICI-type tester, 5 hours) after washing 10 times (JIS L0217, Method 103) is grade 3 or higher.
  • the following PTL4 discloses a method for producing a polyester-spun fabric in which surface fluff is finished so that the average fluff length is at least 1.1 mm to 50 mm and the average fluff density is 200 strands/cm or more by card cloth raising a spun fabric containing polyester single fibers having a single fiber density of 0.01 denier to 10 denier and single fiber strength of 2.5 g/denier or more followed by subjecting the surface of the fabric to beating and abrasion treatment with a flexible coarse surface material having an abrasive film surface on the surface of a support roller.
  • PLT4 describes that, in contrast to pilling resistance as determined in accordance with JIS L1076 being grade 1 to grade 2 in the case of buffing with an emery roll as in the prior art, the aforementioned treatment method using an abrasive film yields pilling resistance of grade 4 to grade 5.
  • PTL4 also describes that, although products have been improved and commercialized from polyester staple fiber spun yarn having a high level of physical properties, spun cloth comprised of this staple fiber spun yarn has long fluff, fluff on the cloth surface is subjected to greater friction attributable to wearing and washing than ordinary worsted fabric, frequently resulting in the formation of small balls of fabric referred to as pilling that caused problems in terms of considerably impairing cloth quality and appearance, thereby resulting in fluff present on the surface of the cloth or fluff pulled out from the cloth becoming entangled as a result of staple fiber fluff on the cloth surface being rubbed and the entangled fluff easily falling off, with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers having high fiber strength and elongation presenting a problem, and although methods such as: (1) modifying the fibers to have less strength and elongation, (2) enhancing structural binding force of the cloth, (3) embrittlement of surface fluff, (4) singeing the fluff, or (5) processing with resin are known as countermeasures against the
  • PTL4 describes that, although singeing in particular is a method applied to worsted fabrics having short fluff and consists of singeing the surface fluff of the cloth with a gas burner when dyeing and finishing the cloth, it cannot be applied to cloth having long fluff, and even if it were attempted to be applied thereto, although anti-pilling effects would be observed to a certain degree, since melt balls of fluff remain on the surface, there are problems such as the texture becoming rough, the texture being hardened by heat treatment, and the cloth lacking heat retention.
  • the technology disclosed in PTL4 applies anti-pilling measures that cause the generation of short, dense fluff using a specific polishing method instead of applied conventional anti-pilling measures employed in carded wool fabric of fluff using synthetic fiber spun yarn.
  • Citation 4 describes that, since extraordinary anti-pilling effects are not obtained as a result of employing ordinary buffing, sanding or grinding with an emery roll or emery belt, spun fabric is finished by subjecting to beating and abrasion treatment on the surface of a support roller by rotating a flexible coarse surface material having an abrasive film surface in the shape of a sharp blade obtained by laminating metal plates and drastically reducing thickness moving toward the tip.
  • this specific polishing method is that, as a result of cutting down while powerfully pulling out long, coarse fluff of a card clothing raised surface, simultaneously severing and removing loops and aggregated fibers, and allowing slightly shorter, dense fluff to be newly generated, only “strong fluff” is allowed to be created thereby enhancing abrasion resistance and imparting pilling resistance by developing the surface, or in other words, removing any loose fibers capable of forming pills from the top surface.
  • the following PTL5 discloses a method for manufacturing a raised fabric that is capable of creating a soft, peach skin-like texture by fibrillating the surface only instead of pulling out fibers from inside the fabric in the manner of thistle raising or card clothing raising while also improving pilling properties, enabling raising of a thin fabric in the manner of boiling without causing problems such as rope wrinkles, scuffing defects or structural disorder, and further eliminating decreases in tear strength of the fabric by contacting fabric woven using glued warp with a ceramic roller comprised of an inorganic powder having a grain size of #100 to #800 while allowing the fabric to travel at a prescribed speed.
  • PTL5 describes that, in comparison with conventional polishing using emery paper (#200), polishing with a ceramic roller comprised of an inorganic powder having a grain size of #100 to #800 improves texture and pilling resistance, and since only the fiber surface is fibrillated allowing the generation of fine fluff, posttreatment consisting of physical means such as singeing or shearing or chemical means using chemicals is not required after raising the fabric.
  • PTL6 discloses the imparting of pilling resistance and high contractility (bulkiness) by modified synthetic fibers obtained by incorporating a monomer that improves pilling resistance in the monomer composing the synthetic fibers and copolymerizing the monomers.
  • this technology has the shortcomings of the applicable fiber material being limited to polyester, and the properties and texture inherently possessed by the synthetic fibers being lost as a result of fiber modification, thereby leading to decreases in fiber strength and increased costs.
  • PTL4 and PTL5 disclose special polishing methods, these polishing methods are techniques applied to raised products. Since the fluff of synthetic fiber spun yarn is hard and fluff (fiber tips) end up escaping even if polished, it is difficult to only treat the fluff causing the occurrence of pilling without damaging the cloth material.
  • finishing processes combining singeing and polishing are not known and are currently not yet implemented as anti-pilling measures of fabrics using synthetic fiber spun yarn.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a cloth containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers, such as a woven or knitted fabric that inhibits the occurrence of pilling in the fabric and inhibits decreasing in cloth strength and worsening of texture, and a method for manufacturing the same.
  • the inventor of the present invention unexpectedly found that, by singeing at least one side of a fabric having fluff comprised of staple fibers obtained by using spinning yarn containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers for the raw yarn followed by weaving or knitting the staple fibers to form melt balls on the ends of the staple fibers, followed by rubbing off the metal balls on the ends of the fluff of the formed staple fibers by polishing with a roll polisher or belt sander to form polishing traces, fabric is obtained that demonstrates extremely superior pilling resistance and inhibits decreases in cloth strength and worsening of texture caused in the production stage or as a result of repeated use, thereby leading to completion of the present invention.
  • thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers having melt balls on the ends of the staple fibers and polishing traces of the melt balls on the fluff tips of the staple fibers on at least one side of the cloth.
  • thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers are fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester-based, polyamide-based, polyacrylic-based, polyvinyl chloride-based, polyvinylidene chloride-based, polyvinyl alcohol-based, polyolefin-based and polyurethane-based fibers.
  • a method for manufacturing an anti-pilling cloth including the steps of:
  • thermoplastic synthetic fibers as raw yarn and weaving or knitting a cloth having fluff on the cut ends of the filament yarn or fluff on the staple fibers
  • melt balls on the cut ends of the filament yarn or on the ends of the staple fibers by singeing at least one side of the resulting cloth
  • polishing traces by scraping the melt balls on the cut ends of the filament yarn or on the fluff tips of the staple fibers formed on the thermoplastic synthetic fibers by polishing.
  • thermoplastic synthetic fibers are fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester-based, polyamide-based, polyacrylic-based, polyvinyl chloride-based, polyvinylidene chloride-based, polyvinyl alcohol-based, polyolefin-based and polyurethane-based fibers.
  • the anti-pilling cloth containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers according to the present invention is a cloth, such as a woven or knitted fabric, that demonstrates superior pilling resistance and inhibits prominent reductions in strength and exacerbation of texture occurring in the production stage and after repeated use. Consequently, woven or knitted fabric using synthetic fiber spun yarn, for which practical application thereof had previously been difficult, can be applied to various articles of clothing and other textile products having a desired texture and appearance.
  • the type of synthetic fibers used for the raw yarn can be freely selected without any particular restrictions thereon.
  • the present invention can also be applied to woven or knitted fabric subjected to raising treatment.
  • the present invention can also be applied to woven or knitted fabric having fibers on the surface thereof that have ends formed by cutting filaments during weaving or knitting of woven or knitted fabric comprised of filaments. Consequently, the anti-pilling cloth containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers according to the present invention is able to provide clothing that is lighter and more durable than natural fibers while having a soft texture in the manner of natural fibers, and can be applied to various textile products such as sheets or bedding covers that are durable and resistant to deterioration even after repeated use.
  • FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface after 10 rounds of washing a spun polyester plain woven finished article (regular processed product) produced in Comparative Example 1.
  • FIG. 2 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface after 30 rounds of washing a spun polyester plain woven finished article (regularly processed product) produced in Comparative Example 1.
  • FIG. 3 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface after 10 rounds of washing a spun polyester plain-woven finished article (singeing+polishing) produced in Example 1.
  • FIG. 4 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface after 30 rounds of washing a spun polyester plain woven finished article (singeing+polishing) produced in Example 1.
  • FIG. 5 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface (singeing only) immediately after having carried out singeing following desizing and scouring of gray fabric at an intermediate stage of the production of a spun polyester plain woven fabric produced in Example 1.
  • FIG. 6 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface immediately after having finished (singeing+polishing) a spun polyester plain woven fabric finished article produced in Example 1.
  • FIG. 7 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface (regular processed product) of a spun polyester plain woven fabric finished article (regular processed product) produced in Comparative Example 3.
  • FIG. 8 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface (singeing only) immediately after having carried out singeing processing after desizing and scouring a spun polyester plain woven fabric finished article produced in Example 2.
  • FIG. 9 is an electron micrograph of a cloth surface (singeing only) immediately after having carried out singeing following desizing and scouring of gray fabric at an intermediate stage of the production of a spun polyester plain woven fabric produced in Example 2.
  • FIG. 10 is a schematic diagram showing one example of a belt sander apparatus for forming polishing traces by scraping the melt balls on fluff tips following singeing.
  • One embodiment of the present invention is an anti-pilling cloth containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers, having melt balls on the ends of the staple fibers and polishing traces of the melt balls on the fluff tips of the staple fibers on at least one side of the cloth.
  • thermoplastic synthetic fibers refers to chemical fibers comprised of a chemically synthesized polymer, although there are no particular limitations thereon provided melt balls are formed that are obtained by gas singeing and the like, and examples thereof include synthetic fibers such as polyester-based, polyamide-based, polyacrylic-based, polyvinyl chloride-based, polyvinylidene chloride-based, polyvinyl alcohol-based, polyolefin-based or polyurethane-based fibers.
  • the melting point of polyester-based staple fibers is 255° C. to 260° C.
  • the melting point of polyamide-based fibers in the form of nylon staple fibers is 215° C.
  • the softening point of polyacrylic-based fibers is 190° C. to 240° C. although the melting point is not clear, and the melting point of polyolefin-based fibers in the form of polypropylene staple fibers is 165° C. to 173° C.
  • natural fibers in the form of cotton (upland) fibers decompose at 235° C. and burn at 275° C. to 456° C.
  • wool (merino) undergoes thermal decomposition at 130° C., becomes scorched at 205° C. and carbonizes at 300° C.
  • thermoplastic synthetic fibers in the present embodiment are preferably fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester-based, polyamide-based, polyacrylic-based, polyvinyl chloride-based, polyvinylidene chloride-based, polyolefin-based and polyurethane-based fibers, and are more preferably polyester-based, polyamide-based or polyacrylic-based fibers.
  • the term “staple fibers” refers to fibers that have been cut to a short length, and in the case the staple fibers are thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers, they are typically fibers obtained by cutting fibers made in the form of filaments.
  • the length of the staple fibers is preferably 20 mm to 70 mm, more preferably 30 mm to 60 mm and even more preferably 38 mm to 51 mm.
  • the fineness (single fiber fineness) of the staple fibers is preferably 0.01 denier to 10 denier, more preferably 0.8 denier to 5 denier and even more preferably 1.0 denier to 2.5 denier.
  • the single fiber fineness is less than 0.01 denier, there is increased susceptibility to soiling and fluff forms and gathers on the ends resulting in greater susceptibility to the formation of pills, while if the single fiber fineness exceeds 10 denier, although there is less generation of fluff, due to the increase in strength, it becomes difficult to remove pills once they have formed and texture is impaired.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the staple fibers may be circular or irregular.
  • the term “staple fibers” also includes fibers having cut ends that have formed as a result of filaments having been cut by weaving, knitting or raising treatment on the surface of gray fabric obtained by weaving or knitting using thermoplastic synthetic filaments as raw yarn.
  • spun yam refers to yarn obtained by unraveling staple fibers, arranging the fibers so as to be combed, twisting and bundling.
  • the spun yarn is preferably comprised only of one type of thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers from the viewpoint of melt ball formation
  • the spun yarn may also be a blended yarn comprised of two or more types of thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers.
  • the spun yarn may also be a blended yarn comprised of thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers and other natural fibers or may be composite fiber yarn, union yarn twisted with filament yarn, or spun twisted yarn.
  • the yarn count of the spun yarn is preferably 7 to 120 (760 denier to 44 denier). The cloth becomes thick if the yarn count is less than 7, while strength decreases if the yarn count exceeds 120.
  • the twist count is preferably 60 twists/m to 1500 twists/m.
  • the term “cloth” refers to any of a woven fabric, knitted fabric (circular knitted fabric, warp knitted fabric or weft knitted fabric) or nonwoven fabric.
  • the cloth is preferably a woven fabric or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of demonstrating a desired effect as a clothing product.
  • the woven fabric is preferably composed of 100% spun yarn, a mixed fabric using filaments for the warp and spun yarn for the weft is preferable since it allows the obtaining of a soft and resilient texture.
  • the term “woven or knitted fabric” refers to either a woven fabric or knitted fabric.
  • the term “fluff” refers to the ends of staple fibers that have risen from the cloth surface, while the ends of staple fibers present within the cloth or within the composing spun yarn are not referred to as fluff.
  • FIGS. 1 and 2 indicate an example of polyester fluff, while FIG. 7 indicates an example of nylon fluff.
  • melt ball refers to that which is formed into roughly a spherical shape as a result of the fluff of thermoplastic synthetic fibers being melted by singeing.
  • melt balls present on the surface of cloth are converted to polishing traces as a result of being scraped by polishing.
  • FIG. 5 indicates an example of polyester melt balls while FIG. 9 indicates an example of nylon melt balls.
  • polishing traces refers to the ends of staple fibers of a shape having traces where melt balls on a cloth surface were scraped by polishing.
  • FIGS. 3, 4 and 6 indicate an example of polyester polishing traces while FIG. 8 indicates an example of nylon polishing traces.
  • thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers as raw yarn and weaving or knitting a cloth having fluff on staple fibers
  • melt balls on the cut ends of the staple fibers by singeing at least one side of the resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric, and
  • polishing traces by scraping the melt balls on the cut ends of the fluff tips of the staple fibers formed one side of the resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric by polishing.
  • Thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers are spun into spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn may be a blended yarn of two or more types of thermoplastic synthetic fibers or may be a blended yarn of one or more types of thermoplastic synthetic fibers and one or more types of natural fibers.
  • the spun yarn is woven using as warp yarn and/or weft yarn to obtain a gray fabric.
  • the gray fabric is subjected to desizing and scouring.
  • melt balls are formed on the tips of fluff present on the cloth surface. At this time, although there are cases in which the melt balls are formed on the ends of staple fibers on the exterior of the spun yam, since melt balls may also be embedded within the cloth and melt balls present at such sites do not appear on the cloth surface, there is no risk of impairing the texture of the cloth. Singeing can be carried out by, for example, direct singeing with the flame of a gas burner (gas singeing) and/or indirect singeing by contact with a heated roller (contact singeing). Since the melting points of polyester and nylon are 210° C. to 260° C., direct singeing is preferable.
  • Indirect singeing in which heat is transmitted in a short period of time with the temperature of the heated roller at a higher temperature, is preferable for materials having higher melting points.
  • melt balls should be allowed to form on fluff tips present on the cloth surface that cause the occurrence of pilling.
  • the transit speed of the woven fabric supplied to the singeing step is preferably 60 m/min to 120 m/min and more preferably 80 m/min to 100 m/min.
  • gas singeing is preferable since pilling is inhibited if the fluff of natural fibers is carbonized and burned off by gas singeing.
  • polishing is carried out in the manner described below.
  • Melt balls on the fluff tips of staple fibers formed on at least one side of a woven fabric or knitted fabric by singeing as described above are, for example, scraped by polishing using an abrasive or sandpaper to form polishing traces. Polishing is preferably carried out on both sides in the case melt balls are formed on both sides of the cloth. Polishing may be carried out manually or using various types of polishers. Roll polishers in which an abrasive is applied to a roller, roll polishers in which sandpaper is wrapped around a roller, or belt sanders using a sandpaper belt can be used as polishers.
  • FIG. 10 indicates an example of a polishing apparatus that uses a belt sander.
  • polishing is carried out twice by interchanging the polished side.
  • the cloth passes over reversing rollers ( 1 and 2 ), is preheated with heated cylinders ( 3 to 5 ), passes over reversing rollers ( 6 to 8 ), and is pressed against a rotating belt sander ( 10 ) while adjusting the pressing force with a movable retainer valve ( 9 ), thereby scraping off melt balls on the cloth surface resulting in the formation of polishing traces.
  • Powder generated by this polishing is removed with a paper powder remover ( 11 ) and cloth powder removers ( 12 and 14 ), after which the cloth from which the powder has been removed is finally recovered after being folded over with a shaking device ( 19 ).
  • the polishing in the present embodiment is carried out in order to scrape off melt balls that have formed due to singeing.
  • melt balls have a roughly spherical shape of a prescribed size, when scraped off by contacting with an abrasive or sandpaper with a cloth surface, the melt balls are unable to enter inside the cloth, thereby enabling polishing and scraping to be carried out preferentially and minimizing damage to the structure of the woven fabric.
  • melt balls formed on the tips thereof by singeing can be polished by scraping without damaging the cloth material and woven fabric can be produced having extremely superior pilling resistance, thereby leading to completion of the present invention.
  • PTL3 describes to the effect that melt balls formed by singeing synthetic fibers can be removed by shearing, since shearing is inherently a method for cutting away raised fibers, it is in fact difficult to apply to products other than raised products in the same manner as polishing, and even if it were to be applied, since there is an extremely high risk of damaging the cloth material, in actuality it is not used.
  • the method for manufacturing an anti-pilling cloth of the present embodiment can also be applied to woven fabric or knitted fabric having a surface subjected to raising treatment.
  • methods used to form a raised state on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric using spun yarn containing thermoplastic synthetic staple fibers for the raw yarn include processing methods in the manner of card clothing raising treatment and emery raising treatment, methods employing weaving in the manner of pile fabrics, and methods employing knitting in the manner of knitted fabrics obtained by center cutting double Raschel knit fabric.
  • At least one side of a woven fabric or knitted fabric having a surface subjected to raising treatment is singed to form melt balls on the ends of the staple fibers, after which melt balls on the fluff tips of the staple fibers that have formed on one side of the resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric are scraped by polishing to form polishing traces.
  • the method for manufacturing anti-pilling cloth of the present embodiment can also be applied to woven fabric or knitted fabric in which staple fibers are present as a result of cutting filaments by weaving, knitting or raising treatment and the like on the surface of gray fabric that has been woven or knit using filaments of thermoplastic synthetic fibers for the raw yarn.
  • woven fabric or knitted fabric in which staple fibers are present as a result of cutting filaments by weaving, knitting or raising treatment and the like on the surface of gray fabric that has been woven or knit using filaments of thermoplastic synthetic fibers for the raw yarn.
  • heat treatment is carried out to eliminate the effects of uneven thermal hysteresis of synthetic fibers. It is preferable to carry out heat setting in order to achieve dimensional stability and uniform dyeing of a woven fabric. In the case of polyester fibers or nylon fibers, heat treatment is carried out for about 30 seconds to 1 minute at 180° C.
  • Dyeing includes squeeze dyeing and continuous dyeing, and squeeze dyeing is most common. Although continuous dyeing is carried out for some polyester, the texture becomes hard and flexibility is impaired. In the case of squeeze dyeing, although uneven dyeing occurs if singeing is carried out prior to dyeing since the dyeing properties of melt balls differ from the cloth, in the present embodiment, since melt balls are removed from the cloth surface by polishing, the problem of uneven dyeing does not occur. Dyeing streaks occur if singeing is uneven. In cases when the problem of dyeing streaks attributable to singeing cannot be solved, singeing and polishing may be carried out on the woven fabric after having dyed the weaving yarn. Namely, dyeing may be carried out prior to singeing or after singeing.
  • melt balls on the ends of fibers are present on the outside of the spun yarn although embedded within the cloth, and polishing traces are present on the cloth surface that were formed by scraping off the melt balls on the fluff tips.
  • the anti-pilling measures can improve the pilling resistance grade to grade 3 or higher, preferably grade 4 or higher and even more preferably grade 5 or higher, and the resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric inhibits decreases in strength and worsening of texture.
  • a woven fabric or knitted fabric in which the anti-pilling measures of the present embodiment have been implemented also has superior durability since the anti-pilling performance thereof persists even after repeated washing.
  • Spun polyester fibers (polyester staple fibers, 1.6 denier, cut to 38 mm) were spun in accordance with an ordinary method to obtain polyester spun yarn (yarn count: 30).
  • the yarn was warped by using the resulting polyester spun yarn for the warp, warp glue consisting mainly of poval was applied to the warped yarn, and the resulting polyester spun yarn was similarly used for the weft to weave plain-woven gray fabric at a warp density of 90 yarns/inch (2.54 cm) and weft density of 70 yarns/inch.
  • both sides of the cloth were singed with a gas singeing machine (80 m/min) to form melt balls on the cloth.
  • both sides of the cloth were polished with a belt sander (#1000 mesh) to remove the melt balls formed on the surface of the cloth.
  • a plain-woven test roll composed of spun polyester fibers was obtained by going through a heat setting step for 1 minute at 180° C., a squeeze dyeing step using squeezing and a drying step.
  • test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 1 with the exception of omitting the singeing step and polishing step.
  • a test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 1 with the exception of carrying out alkali reduction treatment (10%) instead of the polishing step after the singeing step of Example 1.
  • a test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 1 with the exception of carrying out alkali reduction treatment (20%) instead of the polishing step after the singeing step of Example 1.
  • a test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 1 with the exception of carrying out alkali reduction treatment (30%) instead of the polishing step after the singeing step of Example 1.
  • Spun nylon fibers (nylon 66 staple fibers, 1.7 denier, cut to 38 mm) were spun in accordance with an ordinary method to obtain nylon spun yarn (yarn count: 30).
  • the yarn was warped by using the resulting nylon spun yarn for the warp, warp glue consisting mainly of poval was applied to the warped yarn, and the resulting polyester spun yarn was similarly used for the weft to weave plain-woven gray fabric at a warp density of 90 yarns/inch and weft density of 70 yarns/inch.
  • both sides of the cloth were singed with a gas singeing machine (80 m/min) to form melt balls on the cloth.
  • both sides of the cloth were polished with a belt sander (#1000 mesh) to remove the melt balls formed on the surface sides of the cloth.
  • a test roll composed of spun nylon fibers was obtained by going through a heat setting step for 1 minute at 180° C., a squeeze dyeing step using squeezing and a drying step.
  • a test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 2 with the exception of omitting the singeing step and the polishing step.
  • a pre-dyed cloth (warp 96 yarns ⁇ weft 90 yarns), which was woven using twisted yarn comprising two blended yarns (yarn number: 40), obtained by spinning polyester fibers (cut to 38 mm, top dyed) and rayon fibers (cut to 38 mm) at a blending ratio of 65:35, and one polyurethane filament yarn (40 denier) for the warp yarn and weft yarn (final blending ratio: 61:33:6), was prepared followed by further carrying out card cloth raising. Gas singeing (80 m/min was carried out on this cloth to form melt balls, followed by polishing both sides of the cloth with a belt sander (#1000 mesh) to remove the melt balls that had formed on the surface of the cloth. Subsequently, a plain-woven test roll composed of a blended material was obtained by going through a heat setting step for 1 minute at 180° C.
  • a test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 3 with the exception of omitting the polishing step.
  • test roll was obtained according to the same method as Example 3 with the exception of omitting the singeing step and polishing step.
  • the anti-pilling test was carried out for 10 hours in accordance with Method A of JIS L1076 (method using ICI-type tester).
  • the test results represent the average of the assessment results of four test pieces.
  • the tear strength test was carried out in accordance with JIS L1096D (pendulum method).
  • Washing was carried out 10 times and 30 times in accordance with Method C4M of JIS L1930 (using tumble drying).
  • the test rolls of Examples 1 to 3 demonstrated the highest anti-pilling grade of 5 even after 30 rounds of washing as a result of having undergone singeing and polishing and exhibited extremely superior pilling resistance, favorable texture were free of decreases in strength.
  • the anti-pilling grade of the test roll of Comparative Example 1 which was manufactured without undergoing singeing and polishing, was grade 1
  • the anti-pilling grade of the test roll of Comparative Example 5 was grade 1.5
  • the anti-pilling grade of the test roll of Comparative Example 7 was grade 1, thereby indicating that a large amount of pilling occurred in the manufacturing stage.
  • Comparative Examples 2 to 4 which indicate results attributable to alkali reduction treatment that has conventionally been known to be an anti-pilling measure of spun polyester fibers, although preferable results in the form of an anti-pilling grade of grade 5 were obtained in the same manner as Examples 1 and 2, results of the tear strength test were such that tear strength had fallen to roughly only 50% or less of that of Example 1, thereby demonstrating considerable deterioration of cloth strength. Consequently, it was difficult for cloth serving as the material to retain the inherent strength and texture thereof. Moreover, anti-pilling measures based on reduction processing are susceptible to variations in texture and strength due to differences in reduction rates, and are therefore not preferable from the viewpoint of serving as stable anti-pilling measures.
  • Comparative Example 6 Although the anti-pilling grade improved in comparison with Comparative Example 7, demonstrating an anti-pilling grade of 3.5, as a result of a large number of melt balls formed due to singeing being present on the cloth surface, the feel of the cloth on the skin was poor and product value was impaired.
  • the anti-pilling cloth of the present invention demonstrates extremely superior pilling resistance, favorable texture and does not demonstrate remarkable decreases in strength, it can be preferably used various clothing articles and other textile products having a desired texture and appearance that are woven or knitted fabric using spun yarn comprised of synthetic fibers for which practical application has previously been difficult.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
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