TWI516516B - 化妝產品 - Google Patents

化妝產品 Download PDF

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TWI516516B
TWI516516B TW101109975A TW101109975A TWI516516B TW I516516 B TWI516516 B TW I516516B TW 101109975 A TW101109975 A TW 101109975A TW 101109975 A TW101109975 A TW 101109975A TW I516516 B TWI516516 B TW I516516B
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urethane foam
cosmetic composition
cosmetic
foam
polyether urethane
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金京南
崔汀善
沈珉敬
崔庚浩
崔榮鎮
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愛茉莉太平洋股份有限公司
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    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L75/00Compositions of polyureas or polyurethanes; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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Description

化妝產品
本案揭示內容係有關一種化妝產品,特別是一種利用聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉吸收並儲存化妝品組成物的化妝產品。
在過去,化妝品組成物主要在室內使用。然而,由於近年來休閒活動已漸普及,且現代生活風格隨之相應變化,化妝品組成物已頻繁用於戶外活動。
特別是,在過去,防紫外線化妝品組成物多半用於夏季。然而,隨著現代人漸享受戶外活動並認知到紫外線(UV)的危害逐漸加劇,人們傾向除夏季之外也在所有季節裡頻繁使用防UV化妝品組成物。因此,對於方便使用且容易攜帶之化妝品組合物的需求增加。
1940年代是塑膠蓬勃發展期,且德國技術專家在該1940年代末期無意間研發出聚酯係胺基甲酸酯泡棉(polyester-based urethane foam)。由於此種胺基甲酸酯泡棉主要由聚酯製成,故又稱為酯類泡棉。製造此種胺基甲酸酯泡棉不需先進技術。因此,聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉已普遍製造並用於各種工業領域中,特別是用於要求強拉伸力的領域。
然而,聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉在潮濕環境下容易破裂。此外,聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有微孔狀結構及低透氣性,因而呈現低度的棉柔觸感(cushiony feel)、柔軟度和彈性。結論是,聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉不適合用於滲入化妝品組成物,特別是不適合用於滲入液態化妝品組成物。在此等情況下,極需研發適合用於滲入化妝品組成物的胺基甲酸酯泡棉。
本發明之目的係有關提供一種化妝產品,具有於滲入化妝品組成物之後仍能保持高安定性的胺基甲酸酯泡棉。
在一大致方向上,本發明係提供一種化妝產品,該化妝產品利用一聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉來吸附並儲存一化妝品組成物。
本案揭示之化妝產品,其聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉即使經化妝品組成物滲入後仍保持高安定性,可增進化妝品組成物之可攜帶性。
本發明係提供一種化妝產品,包含有一化妝品組成物以及一吸附並儲存該化妝品組成物的聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉,以對該化妝品組成物進行高品質包裝。其中,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有一網狀結構(reticulated structure),可讓該化妝品組成物均勻且輕易滲入該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉而提高其含浸率(impregnation ratio)。此外,該化妝品組成物係藉由一化妝工具自該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉沾取使用。該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉可長時間地均勻承載該化妝品組成物,並當使用者使用該化妝工具取用該化妝品組成物時能釋出適當份量的化妝品組成物,使該化妝產品保持高長效耐久度和高安定性。
當用於本案中,該用語「胺基甲酸酯泡棉(urethane foam)」意指一種經發泡且固化的聚胺機甲酸酯樹脂,且亦稱為「發泡胺基甲酸酯(foamed urethane)」。
在一態樣中,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉較聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉更能抵抗濕度,且因此該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉處於高濕 度條件下不易破裂並展現高安定性。此外,相較於該聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉而言,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有較大的蜂窩狀結構(cellular structure),故而具有增進之透氣性、棉柔觸感、柔軟度和彈性。再者,相較於該聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉所需之製造成本較低,且因而具有較高成本效益。
在一態樣中,胺基甲酸酯泡棉可包括乾式胺基甲酸酯泡棉或濕式胺基甲酸酯泡棉。明確言之,濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有下列表1中所示之該等性質,
通常,相較於乾式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉而言,濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有較小的孔尺寸及較緻密之結構。乾式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有親油性表面性質,濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉則因濕式發泡法而具有親水性表面性質。濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉是具有均一致且高孔隙度的連續微孔狀胺基甲酸酯泡棉,其展現高度的水/油吸收性,且不會自發性地產生顆粒。圖1係濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉的顯微鏡視圖。
在一態樣中,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉除了網狀結構之外更 可具有淬火結構(quenched structure)
在一態樣中,胺基甲酸酯泡棉可具有每立方英尺1至3磅(pcf),特別是1至2pcf的密度。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有低於1pcf之密度時,可能過度釋放化妝品組成物且因而造成使用不便。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有高於3pcf之密度時,則因無法提供足夠的孔數以供化妝品組成物滲入,而使化妝品組成物難以有效地滲入該泡棉。
在一態樣中,胺基甲酸酯泡棉每英吋具有70至120個孔數(ppi),特別是具有75至95ppi。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有低於70ppi的孔數時,該泡棉的彈性欠佳、使用不便且不易控制化妝品組成物之流動性。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有高於120ppi的孔數時,該泡棉所提供之耐久性低且於使用時化妝品組成物的觸感不佳。
在一態樣中,使用購自ASKER公司之DUROMETER硬度檢驗計(F型)胺基甲酸酯泡棉可具有10至70,較佳20至60且特佳30至50之ASKER硬度。若胺基甲酸酯泡棉過軟而具有低於10的硬度時,當使用化妝工具,例如用丁腈橡膠(nitrile butadiene rubber,NBR)粉撲或用手,沾取裝在填充容器內的化妝組成物時滲入該胺基甲酸酯泡棉中的化妝品組成物可能會過度釋出。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉太硬而具有高於70的硬度時,化妝品組成物則可能不易釋出。
在一態樣中,胺基甲酸酯泡棉可具有開放性蜂窩狀結構。當胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有密閉式蜂窩狀結構時,氣泡留在胺基甲酸酯泡棉內,使得低黏度乳化型化妝品組成物可能不易滲入該泡棉內部。故,具有開放性蜂窩狀結構之胺基甲酸酯泡棉可能特別適用。
在一態樣中,欲滲入胺基甲酸酯泡棉中的該化妝品組成物包括液態化妝品組成物,特別是乳化型化妝品組成物,且更佳為油包水(W/O)型或水包油(O/W)型的乳化化妝品組成物。
在一態樣中,該乳化化妝品組成物可具有低黏度,特別是 5,000至15,000厘泊(cps),且更佳為6,000至10,000cps。當該乳化化妝品組成物具有低於5,000cps之黏度時,該化妝品組成物可能發生油相與水相分離之情況,而使該組成物難以均勻地滲入胺基甲酸酯泡棉。當該乳化化妝品組成物具有高於15,000cps之黏度時,將該化妝品組成物塗敷在皮膚上時可能提供令人不喜的黏膩和厚重觸感。
在一態樣中,該化妝品組成物包括護膚組成物和化妝組成物兩種。該等化妝組成物之具體非限制性實例可包括妝前霜、妝底液、粉底、蜜粉、粉餅、唇膏、唇蜜、眼影、眉彩、遮瑕膏、唇線、腮紅、防UV劑、乳液、乳霜或精華液。更明確言之,該化妝品組成物可調製成妝前霜、妝底液、液態或固態粉底、蜜粉、粉餅、唇膏、唇蜜、眼影、眉彩、遮瑕膏或腮紅,但不僅限於此。
在一態樣中,本案所揭示之化妝產品可採填充容器(packed container)形式提供,通常縮寫為「pact」,其包含具有一上半部和一下半部的容器,在該下半部中容納聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉,且該上半部具有蓋子,該蓋子上附有鏡子或類似物。圖2顯示填充容器內所提供之聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉的例示性影像。
現將描述該等實施例、對照例、製備實施例和試驗例。下列實例僅做示範目的且非意欲用以限制本發明範圍。
[試驗例1]測定胺基甲酸酯泡棉之性質
為選出適合用於滲入油包水型或水包油型低黏度乳化化妝品組成物的胺基甲酸酯泡棉,對各種胺基甲酸酯泡棉進行測量以測定該等泡棉之性質。下列表2和表3出示各種胺基甲酸酯泡棉及其對應性質。此外,第3和4圖是各種胺基甲酸酯泡棉放大10 x 0.3倍的顯微視圖。
表3中,聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉是乾式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉。
[試驗例2]配方安定性之評估
在表2和3所列出的各種胺基甲酸酯泡棉中,選出聚醚系 胺基甲酸酯泡棉1(實施例1)、聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉2(對照例1)及聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉3(對照例2),並使用油包水型乳化化妝品組成物滲入該等泡棉中。隨後,評估儲存溫度和時間對該等泡棉之安定性的影響。該等結果顯示於下列表4和表5中。圖5顯示實施例1、對照例1及對照例2在50℃下儲存2小時之後的照片。
如上述結果所見,當使用油包水型乳化化妝品組成物滲入各種泡棉中時,對照例1和2各自的胺基甲酸酯泡棉發生破裂情形,導致該化妝品組成物分離且於高溫下隨時間經過而產生氣泡或因溫度而引起嚴重變化,因而呈現極不安定的狀況。反之,實施例1實質維持在其初始狀態下並展現高安定性。
因此,可看出,當滲入化妝品組成物時,聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉展現出比聚酯系胺基甲酸酯泡棉更高的安定性,且因而更適合用於滲入化妝品組成物。
[製備實施例1和2]製備防UV化妝品組成物
在製備實施例1和2中,根據下表5之配方製備油包水型防UV乳化化妝品組成物。
明確言之,於油性成分中加入防UV劑,並使該防UV劑溶 解且乳化於該等油性成分中。接著,使該等油性成分與一界面活性劑混合,且於80℃下加熱並攪拌該混合物而使之均勻。隨後,進一步於該混合物中加入一顏料,接著攪拌並使之均質化以提供一油性部分。於另一混合器中混合多種水性成分,並於80℃下加熱和攪拌該混合物以提供一完全溶解的水性部分。將所製備的水性部分徐徐地加入該油性部分中,且利用均質混合器使之進行乳化。待冷卻至50℃,將護膚成分和香料加入該乳液中,接著冷卻以提供一低黏度的油包水型防UV乳化化妝品組成物。
表5中,二硬脂二甲銨鋰膨潤石(disteardimonium hectorite)係作為增稠劑,聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯作為底色顏料(pure body pigment),且二氧化鈦/氫氧化鋁/硬脂酸作為無機防UV劑。
[試驗例3]胺基甲酸酯泡棉硬度之喜好度評估
使用製備實施例1和2滲入具有不同硬度值之不同種類的聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉,並測定使用者對每種組合的喜好度。明確而言,係將50位女性分成兩組(每組各25人)。請該些女性連續兩天使用NBR粉撲將滲入至不同硬度之聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉中的製備實施例1和2各自用於肌膚上。隨後,評估使用者對於每種組合包括觸感和塗敷質感在內的整體喜好度。該等結果顯示於下列表6和表7。
如上述結果所見,當用於滲入製備實施例1和2之兩種組成物的聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有40之Asker硬度值時能獲得最高喜好度。
所屬技術領域中熟悉該項技藝者將理解可輕易使用上述說明所揭示之概念及具體實施例作為基礎進行修飾或設計,而做出可實現本發明相同目的之其他實施例。所屬技術領域中熟悉該項技藝者亦將理解此種等效實施例並未偏離如下述申請範圍所闡明之本發明範圍與精神。
圖1係濕式聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉的顯微鏡視圖;圖2顯示一化妝包裝產品,該產品內含滲入油包水型乳化化妝品組合物之胺基甲酸酯泡棉;圖3係表2所列示之該等胺基甲酸酯泡棉各自放大10 x 0.3倍的顯微鏡視圖;圖4係表3所列示之該等胺基甲酸酯泡棉各自放大10 x 0.3倍的顯微鏡視圖;圖5顯示實施例1、對照例1及對照例2在50℃下儲存2小時之後的照片。

Claims (8)

  1. 一種化妝產品,包含有一化妝品組成物及一吸附並儲存該化妝品組成物的聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉,其中,該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉具有一網狀結構,且該化妝品組成物係藉由一化妝工具自該聚醚系胺基甲酸酯泡棉沾取使用。
  2. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該泡棉具有1至3pcf之密度。
  3. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該泡棉每英吋具有70至120個孔之孔數。
  4. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該泡棉具有10至70之ASKER硬度。
  5. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該泡棉具有一開放性蜂窩狀結構。
  6. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該化妝品組成物係一油包水型或水包油型乳化化妝品組成物。
  7. 如申請專利範圍第6項之化妝產品,其中該乳化化妝品組成物具有5,000至15,000cps之黏度。
  8. 如申請專利範圍第1項之化妝產品,其中該化妝品組成物係供用於妝前霜、妝底液、粉底、蜜粉、粉餅、唇膏、唇蜜、眼影、眉彩、遮瑕膏或腮紅。
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