JP2018526331A - 高い剤形安定性を有する化粧料組成物 - Google Patents
高い剤形安定性を有する化粧料組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2018526331A JP2018526331A JP2017567203A JP2017567203A JP2018526331A JP 2018526331 A JP2018526331 A JP 2018526331A JP 2017567203 A JP2017567203 A JP 2017567203A JP 2017567203 A JP2017567203 A JP 2017567203A JP 2018526331 A JP2018526331 A JP 2018526331A
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- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- methylenedioxycinnamate
- chemical formula
- mel
- dosage form
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- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
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- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Description
ここで、皮膚損傷を防ぎ、各種効能を与えるための多くの物質が公知されていて、メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジル(kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate、商品名セレチノイド G、Seletinoid GTM)は、これら物質の一つであって、特に抗老化、抗酸化、美白などに優れた効果がある。
このようなメチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの難溶性問題を改善するために、従来に様々な試みがあった。
また、後者の場合は、煩わしくて非経済的であり、著しい溶解度改善効果がないため、常用化には依然として限界があった。
したがって、メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの結晶性を低下させ、組成物内での安定性を維持させるためのより効果的方法の開発が必要な実情である。
化学式1
化学式2
(上記化学式2で、R1ないしR4は明細書内での説明に従う。)。
また、上記マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドは、化粧料組成物の総重量に対して0.25ないし5.0重量%で含まれることを特徴とする。
特に、上記メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルとマンノシルエリスリトールリピッドは、1:2.5超ないし1:100の重量比で含まれることを特徴とする。
メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジル(Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate)は、下記化学式1で表わされる:
化学式1
MELは下記化学式2で表わされる:
化学式2
(上記化学式2で、
R1及びR2は同一または異なり、それぞれ独立にC2ないしC24の脂肪族アシル基で、R3及びR4は同一または異なり、それぞれ独立にアセチル基または水素である)。
MELは、下記化学式3で定義されるMEL−A、MEL−B、MEL−C、またはMEL−Dのいずれか一つであってもよい。
化学式3
(上記化学式3で、
R5及びR6は同一または異なり、アセチル基または水素で、nまたはmは6ないし10の定数である)。
上記MELは、界面活性を有するバイオ界面活性剤(biosurfactants)の一つである。
結晶化を通して剤形内で結晶が形成されれば有効成分の皮膚伝達が容易でないので、効能が減少するだけでなく、使用する時に異物が感じられて品質低下の要素になるので、これの防止がとても重要である。このような問題は、結局本発明でMELの使用を通して解消することができた。
一方、結晶化は剤形の安定性を意味し、これのために有効成分の含量、MELの含量、有効成分とMELの含量比が上記安定性と係った重要なパラメーターになる。
好ましくは、本発明の化粧料組成物は、総重量内でメチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルを0.05ないし0.25重量%、好ましくは0.05ないし0.15重量%で使用する。もし、その含量が上記範囲未満であれば、上記メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの使用によって得られる有効効果、すなわち抗老化、美白、抗酸化効果を確保することができない。これと逆に、上記範囲を超える場合は安定性が低下して結晶化が発生するおそれがある。
本発明による化粧料組成物は、化粧品学または皮膚科学的に許容できる媒質または基剤を含んで剤形化されてもよい。本発明の化粧品組成物に含まれる成分は、有効成分としての上記造成以外に、化粧料組成物に通常用いられる成分を含み、例えば、乳脂成分、補湿剤、軟化剤、界面活性剤、有機及び無機顔料、有機粉体、紫外線吸収剤、防腐剤、除泡剤、粘増剤、殺菌剤、酸化防止剤、植物抽出物、pH調整剤、アルコール、色素、香料、血行促進剤、冷感剤、制汗剤などを含む。
一例として、本発明による化粧料組成物は、乳濁液、つまりエマルジョン化された剤形であってもよい。
この時、水相部は水と共にポリオールを使用し、油相部はオイルを使い、前述の各種添加剤、安定化剤、界面活性剤、紫外線吸収剤などを各相に添加することができる。
水相部に使用する水は蒸溜水で、好ましくは脱イオン化した蒸溜水を使用し、全体重量%が100重量%を満たすように残部として使用する。
例えば、ソルビタンステアレート、ソルビタンラウレート、ソルビタンパルミテート、グリセリルステアレート、ポリグリセリルステアレート、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオリエート、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンステアレート、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンラウレート、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンオリエート、ポリオキシエチレンソルビトールヘキサオレート、ポリオキシエチレン水素化ひまし油などの天然油のポリオキシエチレンエーテル系化合物、またはポロキサマー168(Poloxamer168)、ポロキサマー407(Poloxamer 407)などのポリオキシプロピレンのポリオキシエチレンエーテル系化合物、ソジウムステアレート、ポタシウムステアレート、ソジウムラウレート、ソジウムラウリル硫酸塩、ソジウムラウレス硫酸塩(sodium laureth sulfate)、アンモニウムラウレス硫酸塩、ポタシウムセチルリン酸塩、PEG−100ジメチコン、ポリエチレングリコールモノイソステアレート、セテアリルオリベート、ソルビタンオリベート、水素化されたレシチン(Hydrogenated Lecithin)、アラキジルグルコシド、セテアリルアルコール、セテアリルグルコシド、ポリソルベート(Polysorbate)80及びポリソルベート(Polysorbate)60などが可能である。上記界面活性剤は、組成物の総重量対比10重量%以下で使用する。
この時、撹拌は真空乳化槽内でホモミキサーを利用して2000〜4000rpm、好ましくは3000rpmの速度で3〜10分間撹拌する。
このように製造された化粧料組成物は、既に言及したように、有効メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの機能を極大化し、剤形化後に結晶化が発生しないことによって剤形安定化を向上し、使用感を高める効果を確保することができた。
(1)スキンケアエマルジョン組成物製造
下記表1で示す造成を利用してスキンケア用エマルジョンを製造した。先ず、原料1ないし4を混合して70℃で溶解して水相部を製造した後、原料5ないし11を70℃で溶解して油相部を製造した。次に、上記油相部を水相部に添加し、ホモミキサーで撹拌して1次油化した後、原料12を添加して粘増した。最終的に、気泡をとり除いて原料13及び14を添加した後、室温で冷却させてエマルジョン組成物を製造した。この時、MELとしては SurfMellow BBG (manufactured by Toyobo Co.、Ltd.)を使用した。
上記実施例及び比較例で製造したエマルジョン組成物を製造直後、3週、及び10週目に光学顕微鏡(×500)及び偏光顕微鏡(×500)を用いて結晶の発生可否を下記に基づいて観察し、その結果を下記表2に示した。
<判断基準>
X:結晶が観察されない
黒三角:微細サイズの結晶観察
○:結晶観察
◎:大きいサイズの結晶観察
特に、比較例1と比較例3、及び比較例5の組成物は、3週目から明らかに結晶が観察され、比較例3と比較例4は、3週目には微細に結晶が見えたが、10週目には結晶がはっきり観察されたので、安定しないことを確認した。
上記結果は、光学顕微鏡及び偏光顕微鏡の観察によって確認でき、その結果を図1及び図2に示した。
図1を見れば、MELが含有されていない比較例1の組成物は、製造直後には結晶が発生しなかったが、3週後から結晶が観察され、10週後には結晶の大きさがとても大きくなることを確認できる。
一方、図2の実施例1の組成物の場合、MELを使用することで、10週後にも結晶が発生することなく、安定した状態を維持することが確認できる。
安定化剤として使うMELの最適含量を確認するため、上記実施例1の組成物と同じ処方で行い、エマルジョン組成物を製造して析出試験を行った。この時、100重量%は精製水の含量を変化して調節した。
このようなMELの含量は、メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの含量が0.1重量%である場合にあたり、以後、実験でMELとメチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルの含量比に対する実験を行った。
メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルとMELの含量比による結晶化可否を確認するため、上記実施例1の組成物と同じ処方行い、エマルジョン組成物を製造して析出試験を行った。この時、100重量%は精製水の含量を変化して調節した。
このような結果は、メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジル対比MELを最小2.5倍を超過して添加すれば、結晶化を抑制することができることが分かる。
メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルとMELの温度別安定性を確認するため、上記実施例1と比較例1のエマルジョン組成物を利用して、温度及び時間による結晶化発生可否を確認した。
これと比べて、比較例1の組成物は、MELの未使用によって室温でも結晶化が発生しており、このような現象は、低温でより深刻に起きて低温での析出現象が加速化することが分かる。
Claims (6)
- 上記化学式2において、R1及びR2は同一または異なり、それぞれ独立に−C(=O)−(CH2)n−CH3で表わされる脂肪族アシル基(3≦n≦15)であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の化粧料組成物。
- 上記メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルは、化粧料組成物の総重量に対して0.05ないし0.25重量%で含まれることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の化粧料組成物。
- 上記マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドは、化粧料組成物の総重量に対して0.25ないし5.0重量%で含まれることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の化粧料組成物。
- 上記メチレンジオキシケイ皮酸コジルとマンノシルエリスリトールリピッドは、1:2.5 超過ないし1:100の重量比で含まれることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の化粧料組成物。
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US10792238B2 (en) | 2020-10-06 |
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AU2016287136B2 (en) | 2021-07-29 |
JP6770007B2 (ja) | 2020-10-14 |
US20180177702A1 (en) | 2018-06-28 |
AU2016287136A1 (en) | 2018-02-15 |
CN107920975B (zh) | 2021-01-08 |
KR102552729B1 (ko) | 2023-07-06 |
US20190192412A1 (en) | 2019-06-27 |
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