JP5707062B2 - 皮膚外用組成物 - Google Patents
皮膚外用組成物 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5707062B2 JP5707062B2 JP2010136060A JP2010136060A JP5707062B2 JP 5707062 B2 JP5707062 B2 JP 5707062B2 JP 2010136060 A JP2010136060 A JP 2010136060A JP 2010136060 A JP2010136060 A JP 2010136060A JP 5707062 B2 JP5707062 B2 JP 5707062B2
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- Prior art keywords
- skin
- fatty acid
- acid ester
- composition
- sucrose fatty
- Prior art date
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- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 30
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 26
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
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- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
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Landscapes
- Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
ショ糖脂肪酸エステルからなり、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エス
テルの質量比が9:1〜8:2であるベシクルを含有することを特徴とする皮膚外用組成物。
(2) マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルの総量が65質量%
未満で、ベシクル状態から平板ラメラ状態に変化するベシクルであることを特徴とする(1)に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
(3) 皮膚角層下層のラメラ構造を改善することを特徴とする(1)または(2)に記
載の皮膚外用組成物。
本発明のベシクルは、化粧料用の小球体であって、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドと、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルを有するベシクルであることを特徴とする。マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルを混合することでベシクルの安定性、皮膚浸透性を高め、角層バリア機能を高める作用を有する。マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルとの含有質量比は、9:1〜8:2が好ましい。
本発明のベシクルは、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドを含有することを特徴とする。マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドは、マンノースの4位および6位のアセチル基の有無からMEL−A、MEL−B、MEL−CおよびMEL−Dの4種類が知られている。式(1)中、R1、R2は炭素数6〜20の飽和または不飽和であるアシル基、R3、R4は、アセチル基または水素を表す。すなわち、MEL−Aは、式(1)中、マンノースの2位、3位に炭素数6〜20の飽和または不飽和であるアシル基を有し、マンノースの4位、6位にアセチル基を有する化合物である。なおMEL−Bは、式(1)中、マンノースの2位、3位に炭素数6〜20の飽和または不飽和であるアシル基を有し、マンノースの4位に水素、6位にアセチル基を有する化合物である。MEL−Cは、式(1)中、マンノースの2位、3位に炭素数6〜20の飽和または不飽和であるアシル基を有し、マンノースの4位にアセチル基、6位に水素を有する化合物である。MEL−Dは、式(1)中、マンノースの2位、3位に炭素数6〜20の飽和または不飽和であるアシル基を有し、マンノースの4位、6位に水素を有する化合物である。
本発明のベシクルは、ショ糖脂肪酸エステルを含有することを特徴とする。ショ糖脂肪酸エステルとしては、アシル基の数が1個乃至は2個のものが好ましい。該アシル基としては、炭素数8〜22のものが好ましく、炭素数10〜18のものが更に好ましい。また、アシル基は脂肪族であることが好ましく、脂肪族であれば不飽和結合を有することも出来る。かかるショ糖脂肪酸エステルの好ましい具体例としては、例えば、ショ糖モノラウリン酸エステル、ショ糖ジラウリン酸エステル、ショ糖モノミリスチン酸エステル、ショ糖ジミリスチン酸エステル、ショ糖モノパルミチン酸エステル、ショ糖ジパルミチン酸エステル、ショ糖モノステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖ジステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖モノイソステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖ジイソステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖モノオレイン酸エステル、ショ糖ジオレイン酸エステル等が例示出来、これらの中では、ショ糖モノラウリン酸エステルが特に好ましい。かかるショ糖脂肪酸エステルは唯一種を含有することも出来るし、二種以上を組み合わせて含有することも出来る。かかるショ糖脂肪酸エステルの好ましい含有量は、化粧料全量に対し、0.0001〜1質量%が好ましく、より好ましくは、0.001〜0.1質量%である。
本発明の皮膚外用組成物は、前記必須成分を含有することを特徴とする。本発明で言う皮膚外用組成物とは、皮膚に外用で投与されるものであれば特段の限定はなく、例えば、医薬部外品を包含する化粧料、皮膚外用雑貨等が好適に例示できる。これらの内では、化粧料が特に好ましい。特に、皮膚保湿性を維持するための化粧料に適用することが特に好ましい。又、本発明の皮膚外用組成物は、通常知られている、ローション剤形、乳液剤形、エッセンス剤形、クリーム剤形、粉体含有剤形の何れをも取ることが出来る。化粧料としては、基礎化粧料、毛髪化粧料、メークアップ化粧料の何れもが適用可能であるが、基礎化粧料に適用することが特に好ましい。
表1に示す処方に従ってローションを作製した。すなわち、(イ)の各成分を80℃で加熱溶解し、(ロ)の混合物を加え、ホモミキサーで回転数8000rpm、10分間攪拌した。さらに、実施例1のローションのうち、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルの比率をかえた実施例2、比較例1、2も同時に調製した。比較例1はショ糖脂肪酸エステルを含有していない。
表2に示す処方に従って、本発明の皮膚外用組成物である乳液(実施例3)を作成した。すなわち、(A)、(B)の各成分を75℃で加熱溶解し、(A)の混合物に(B)の混合物を加えて撹拌して乳化させた。その後75℃に加熱した(C)の混合物を加えて攪拌し、乳化物(イ)を得た。さらに(D)の混合物を80℃で加熱溶解し、ホモミキサーで回転数8000rpm、10分間攪拌しながら(E)を添加し、可溶化物(ロ)を得た。最後に乳化物(イ)に可溶化物(ロ)を攪拌しながら添加し、室温まで撹拌、冷却し、乳液を得た。
ベシクル状態の評価は、偏光顕微鏡観察と目視観察により行った。まず、偏光顕微鏡観察の結果、表3に示す様に、すべての実施例、比較例にて平板ラメラやベシクル等の二分子膜構造に由来するモザイク像が観察された。一方で、目視観察の結果、実施例4、5、6に平板ラメラ状態に特有のゲルが観察された。実施例4の外観を図1に示す。比較例3、4、5は、液状かつ数時間静置により透明相の分離が確認された。比較例3の外観を図2に示す。この結果から、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルの質量比を9:1〜8:2にすることで、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルの総量が、65質量%未満(水分量35質量%を超える)でも、ベシクル状態から平板ラメラ状態に変化するベシクルが形成できることが明らかとなった。
試験は、5名のパネラーを対象として、20℃、相対湿度50%の部屋で実施した。測定部位を37℃の温水で30秒間洗浄し、20分間安静にし、その後、測定を行った。前腕内側部の皮膚を対象として、試験予定日の前日(−1日)に予め試験部位の皮膚水分量をSKICON−200EX(IBS社製)にて測定しておく。その後、アセトンを含浸させたガーゼ(2cm×2cm)を30分間接触させた。翌日(0日)SKICON−200EXにて、皮膚水分量を測定、その後、実施例1で作成した試験サンプルを塗布した。試験サンプルの塗布は、一日3回実施した。塗布1日後、2日後に再度皮膚水分量を測定した。同時に、実施例1、比較例1、2の試験サンプル、試験サンプルの塗布を行わない未処置対照の試験も実施した。評価結果を表4に示した。
培養皮膚Epiderm EPI−200(Mattek社製)をインキュベーターにて1時間(37℃)前培養したものに対し、角層側にアセトンを200μL塗布し、5分間振とうさせ、その後除去する操作を2回繰り返すことで、乾燥肌モデルを作製した。この乾燥肌モデルの角層側に実施例1の試験サンプルを塗布し、3時間インキュベート後、培養液上で3時間乾燥させ、ルテニウム染色を行いTEMにて観察した。その結果、実施例1の試験サンプルを塗布した乾燥肌モデルの角層下層部分に、ラメラ構造が観察された。観察結果を図3に示す。また実施例1試験サンプルを塗布しなかった場合は、乾燥肌モデルの角層下層部分に、ラメラ構造は観察されなかった。観察結果を図4に示す。
Claims (3)
- 下記一般式(1)で表される構造を有するマンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルを含むベシクルを含有する皮膚外用組成物であって、
前記マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドとショ糖脂肪酸エステルの質量比が9:1〜8:2であり、
前記ショ糖脂肪酸エステルは、炭素数10〜18の不飽和結合を有してもよい脂肪族アシル基を1又は2個有する、皮膚外用組成物。
- 前記ショ糖脂肪酸エステルが、ショ糖モノラウリン酸エステルである、請求項1に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
- 皮膚角層下層のラメラ構造の改善用である請求項1または2に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
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