EP0380808A1 - Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication d'un velours nuancé Jacquard - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication d'un velours nuancé Jacquard Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0380808A1
EP0380808A1 EP89124010A EP89124010A EP0380808A1 EP 0380808 A1 EP0380808 A1 EP 0380808A1 EP 89124010 A EP89124010 A EP 89124010A EP 89124010 A EP89124010 A EP 89124010A EP 0380808 A1 EP0380808 A1 EP 0380808A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weft
pile
threads
warp
color
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP89124010A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0380808B1 (fr
Inventor
Josephus A. Diender
Johannes G. Jansen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LEO SCHELLENS BV
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LEO SCHELLENS BV
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First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=6371806&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP0380808(A1) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by LEO SCHELLENS BV filed Critical LEO SCHELLENS BV
Priority to AT89124010T priority Critical patent/ATE89344T1/de
Publication of EP0380808A1 publication Critical patent/EP0380808A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0380808B1 publication Critical patent/EP0380808B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/10—Fabrics woven face-to-face, e.g. double velvet

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method and a device for producing a jacquard shadow velor with different standing and layered areas according to a pattern to be woven.
  • Methods for producing a jacquard shadow velor are known, in which a basic chain and a pole chain are controlled via shafts and a figure chain via a jacquard machine.
  • a tight figure chain is provided for the formation of the double work, with respect to which the weft threads in the upper and lower goods are bound in cross ribs via a double weave, in which two weft threads on one side of the tight chain and one weft thread on the other side of the tight Chain lies.
  • the weft threads are integrated via the basic chain in plain weave.
  • the weft threads are arranged in the upper fabric with a position deep, deep, high for a first position pile, with a position high, deep, deep for a second layer and with a position high, low, high for a standing pile.
  • the weft threads are arranged symmetrically in the bottom fabric. Repeat repetitions and the combination of the repetitions enable the weaving of patterns.
  • the weaving machines used for this are conventional dobby and / or jacquard machines.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to create a method and a device for producing a jacquard shadow velor, which allow a three- and multi-colored weaving of patterns with differently colored formation of individual pile areas.
  • the special double plush weave enables one weft thread for different feed repeats to lie on the top of the fabric facing the pile cover and to be bound by the base warp, while the other weft threads are essentially covered by the figure and pile warp.
  • the color of the weft thread on the pile-side fabric surface dominates the color effect of the pile area of a specific repeat.
  • the pull-in repeats possible for a 3/6 weft pile binding, right-hand layer pile, left-hand layer pile and standing pile can thus be given their own color, which is determined by the color of the weft thread lying on the pile side.
  • Another color variation can be achieved by weaving in additional weft threads in the same or different colors. These additional shots are tied off by the figure chain and preferably floating.
  • Natural fibers in particular mohair, are preferably used for the pile chain.
  • colored acrylic fibers are preferably used as the weft. The different color affinity of these fibers during dyeing allows a dyeing process to be followed in which the color of the weft threads remains unchanged, the pile warp and possibly the base and figure warp, which are also preferably made of natural fiber, are dyed.
  • the process for producing a jacquard shadow velor according to fabric sections in FIGS. 1 to 5 is carried out on a double-weaving machine.
  • a basic chain 14 and a pole chain 13 are raised and lowered by means of shafts, and a figure chain 11, 12 is controlled via a jacquard device.
  • Weft threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 of a repeat are entered in three different colors a, b, c by means of a weft changer, and controlled in such a way that three successive weft threads 1, 2, 3 or 4, 5, 6 be entered in selectable colors a, b, c one after the other and thus form a group.
  • the individual wefts 1 to 6 are bound in plain weave by the base chain 14.
  • the pile warp threads are preferably integrated via a 3/6 weft W-pile binding, but can also, for. B. by a 3/4 or 3/8 weft W-pole binding.
  • the figure warp threads are controlled by the jacquard device to form layer pile and standing pile areas so that the figure chain 11, 12 crosses with the weft threads 1 to 6 to form offset transverse ribs.
  • a double work 10 with upper goods 20 and lower goods 30 according to FIG. 1 is produced, which is finally cut open.
  • the color design is carried out in accordance with a pattern to be woven, each strong repeat color of the pile knobs being assigned a strong color corresponding to one of the colors a, b, c of the weft threads.
  • the respective second weft 2, 5 of color b of a group is bound in one plane by the chain of figures 11, 12, while the respective first weft 1, 4 of color a and third weft 3 , 6 of the color c can be arranged in a plane above and below the plane of the second shot 2, 5.
  • the weft threads 1, 2, 3 and 4, 5, 6 are consequently arranged in three planes.
  • the color a of this first shot 1, 4 thus shapes the color of the upper or lower fabric and gives the layer of floret a strong color in accordance with the color a of the first shot 1, 4.
  • the third weft 3, 6 of a group lies on the pile-side fabric top.
  • the color c of the third weft thread determines the color of this fabric top and thus the color of the second layer pile.
  • the figure chain 11, 12 separates the weft threads 1, 2, 3 and 4, 5, 6 into two planes, since only the second weft 2, 5 with the color b lies on the pile-side fabric surface, while the first Shot 1, 4 and third shot 3, 6 are essentially covered by the chain of figures 11.
  • the color b of the second shot 2, 5 thus shapes the color of the standing pile area.
  • a further color variation of the jacquard shadow velor according to the fabric sections of FIGS. 6 to 9 can be achieved by incorporating additional wefts 7 with further colors e on the side of the upper and / or lower fabric facing the pile cover.
  • cover shots are tied off by the figure chain 11, 12, so that they are guided alternately above and below the figure chain 11, 12, which is indicated for the color e by means of solid and dashed circles.
  • additional wefts are preferably woven in with thread floats.
  • the thread sequence of the pile and base chain in the warp repeat is preferably chosen 1/2 and woven 1 pin.
  • 4 are woven protective.
  • the yarns for weft 1 to 7 can consist of synthetic fibers, natural or mixed fibers, but preferably acrylic fibers.
  • the yarns for the base, figure and pile chain can also consist of chemical or natural fibers, but cotton is preferably used for the base and figure chain and mohair for the pile chain. This preferred selection of the fibers used results in a different color affinity of the weft threads on the one hand and of the base, figure and pile warp on the other hand, so that when the woven velor is dyed, one yarn is dyed but the dye is not drawn onto the other yarns.
  • the method described above is thus used to weave a jacquard shadow velor, which has a basic warp 14, a figure warp 11, 12, tufts 13 in 3 weft W-pile binding, preferably 3 / 6W, and differently colored weft threads 1 to 6 and optionally cover weft threads 7, that are woven into colored patterns from pile areas with different feed repeats.
  • the second weft thread 2, 5 is in each case the weft of a group of three color-changing weft threads 1, 2, 3 and 4, 5, 6, which is wrapped by the tuft, which is bound in one plane by the intersecting figure warp threads 11, 12 .
  • first weft 1, 4 and third weft 3, 6 of the group are each arranged in a plane above and below the plane of the second weft thread 2, 5.
  • the direction of the layer pile is determined by the direction of an offset arrangement of the three shots 1, 2, 3 or 4, 5, 6 of each group in the individual levels. This staggered arrangement of the shots in three levels results in a color design of the respective positional flor by the first or third shot.
  • These different-colored piles can be combined into colored designs, the standing pile to which the color of the second weft thread is assigned allows a three-color design, provided the same colors a, b, c are always used for each weft of each group. Varying the colors a, b, c for a group's shots and uses The use of other colors enables further color variations.
  • the weft which determines the color design in the respective area of the flora can be integrated in this area.
  • the weft threads 1 to 6 are bound by the base chain 4 via a plain weave, as shown in FIGS. 5 and 9.
  • FIG. 11 shows a system of the essential assemblies of a double-weaving machine 40, which are listed below.
  • Three warp beams 41, 42 and 43 for the pile chain, the basic chain and the figure chain are provided and equipped with warp let-off gears to regulate the unwinding of the chains from the warp beams.
  • Shafts are provided for lifting and lowering the base and pile warp threads.
  • a fabric take-off 44 ensures a continuous warp and fabric run.
  • a shed formation device 45 controls the shed formation and the thread crossing between chain 46 and weft 47 in accordance with the weave to be woven.
  • a weft insertion device 48 effects a weft feed into the shed, this weft insertion device 48 preferably being formed by grippers, each of which grips a thread from one of the fixed bobbins with different colors before they insert it into a shed.
  • the weft insertion occurs only from one side, while the drive of the weft insertion means acts from both sides.
  • a sley 49 with a reed feeds the weft insertion means 48 and the inserted weft thread to the finished fabric 50.
  • a weft changer 51 is provided which allows weft threads of different colors to be inserted.
  • This weft changer 51 is preferably designed as a lamella changer.
  • the weft thread sequence is encoded by the weft changer 51 Data carrier entered, which contains the change program for the weft change.
  • the change program triggers 52 control pulses in a controller, which act on a change gear 53.
  • the change program is preferably contained here in a jacquard card or a jacquard program 54 which, in addition to the weft changer, controls in particular a jacquard device 55 for lifting and lowering the figure chain for large warp repeats.
  • the jacquard device 55 comprises a control which is designed in such a way that a multicolored jacquard shadow velor is produced, in which the pile chains are integrated via a three-layer W-pile binding for positional flor areas and the figure warp threads in each case the second weft thread of a group of three successive, offset and tie a color warp thread wrapped around a pile warp thread in one plane, while the first and third weft threads of the group are each arranged in a plane above and below the plane of the second weft thread.
  • the first and third weft threads determine the color of the pile according to a pattern to be woven.
  • a knife 56 serves to cut open the tissue produced as a double work.
  • a weaving machine drive 57 provides power and motion transmission to the assemblies of the weaving machine. Because of the fixed phase sequence of the weaving process, the assemblies of the weaving machine are synchronized.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Looms (AREA)
  • Silver Salt Photography Or Processing Solution Therefor (AREA)
  • Stringed Musical Instruments (AREA)
  • Preparation Of Compounds By Using Micro-Organisms (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP89124010A 1989-01-10 1989-12-27 Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication d'un velours nuancé Jacquard Expired - Lifetime EP0380808B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT89124010T ATE89344T1 (de) 1989-01-10 1989-12-27 Verfahren und vorrichtung zum herstellen eines jacquard-schattenvelours.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3900500 1989-01-10
DE3900500A DE3900500C1 (fr) 1989-01-10 1989-01-10

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0380808A1 true EP0380808A1 (fr) 1990-08-08
EP0380808B1 EP0380808B1 (fr) 1993-05-12

Family

ID=6371806

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP89124010A Expired - Lifetime EP0380808B1 (fr) 1989-01-10 1989-12-27 Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication d'un velours nuancé Jacquard

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0380808B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE89344T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE3900500C1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2044047T3 (fr)

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE1004509A4 (nl) * 1991-02-15 1992-12-01 Haezebrouck Weverij Bvba Werkwijze voor het dubbelstuk-weven van schaduwfluweel en volgens deze werkwijze vervaardigd schaduwfluweel.
BE1008839A5 (nl) * 1994-10-07 1996-08-06 Weverij Hazebrouck B V B A Werkwijze voor de vervaardiging van een fluweelweefsel.
NL1006160C2 (nl) * 1997-05-29 1998-12-10 Movelta N V Jacquard-schaduwvelours, inrichting en werkwijze voor het vervaardigen van een dergelijke jacquard-schaduwvelours.
NL1012297C2 (nl) * 1999-06-11 2000-12-12 Movelta N V Jacquard-schaduwvelours.
EP1251195A1 (fr) * 2001-04-20 2002-10-23 NV Michel van de Wiele Procédé de tissage double pièce de velours ombrés
NL1021569C2 (nl) * 2001-10-03 2004-11-09 Fibertex N V Schaduwfluweelweefsel en werkwijze voor het weven ervan.
CN103911747A (zh) * 2014-04-22 2014-07-09 辽宁采逸野蚕丝制品有限公司 一面毛圈一面丝绒的双色提花织物及其织造方法

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4446927C1 (de) * 1994-12-28 1996-02-29 Smm Moebelstoff Manufaktur Gmb Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Herstellung eines gemusterten Schattenvelours
NL1009196C2 (nl) * 1998-05-18 1999-11-25 Devantex N V Jacquardschaduwvelours en werkwijze voor het vervaardigen van een dergelijk jacquardschaduwvelours.
BE1020257A3 (nl) * 2011-09-22 2013-07-02 Wiele Michel Van De Nv Werkwijze voor het weven van een poolweefsel.
WO2013041938A2 (fr) * 2011-09-22 2013-03-28 Nv Michel Van De Wiele Procédé permettant de tisser un tissu à poils
BE1020320A5 (nl) * 2011-10-13 2013-08-06 Wiele Michel Van De Nv Werkwijze voor het weven van een poolweefsel.
BE1021026B1 (nl) * 2013-01-09 2015-01-27 Nv Michel Van De Wiele Tapijt met een schaduweffect en werkwijze voor het weven van een tapijtweefsel met een schaduweffect.

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE636137A (fr) *
FR2103509A1 (en) * 1970-08-26 1972-04-14 Gusken Fa Jean Weft selector - for shuttleless looms weaving a plush or velours double fabric
GB2115022A (en) * 1982-02-06 1983-09-01 British Trimmings Ltd Weaving narrow fabric

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE636137A (fr) *
FR2103509A1 (en) * 1970-08-26 1972-04-14 Gusken Fa Jean Weft selector - for shuttleless looms weaving a plush or velours double fabric
GB2115022A (en) * 1982-02-06 1983-09-01 British Trimmings Ltd Weaving narrow fabric

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
MELLIAND TEXTILBERICHTE INTERNATIONAL. vol. 50, no. 4, April 1969, HEIDELBERG DE Seiten 397 - 404; Frommert S.: "Grundlagen der Technologie der Florgewebe" *

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE1004509A4 (nl) * 1991-02-15 1992-12-01 Haezebrouck Weverij Bvba Werkwijze voor het dubbelstuk-weven van schaduwfluweel en volgens deze werkwijze vervaardigd schaduwfluweel.
BE1008839A5 (nl) * 1994-10-07 1996-08-06 Weverij Hazebrouck B V B A Werkwijze voor de vervaardiging van een fluweelweefsel.
NL1006160C2 (nl) * 1997-05-29 1998-12-10 Movelta N V Jacquard-schaduwvelours, inrichting en werkwijze voor het vervaardigen van een dergelijke jacquard-schaduwvelours.
EP0887449A1 (fr) * 1997-05-29 1998-12-30 Movelta N.V. Velours ombré jacquard, dispositif et procédé pour la fabrication d'un tel velours ombré jacquard
NL1012297C2 (nl) * 1999-06-11 2000-12-12 Movelta N V Jacquard-schaduwvelours.
EP1059374A1 (fr) * 1999-06-11 2000-12-13 Movelta N.V. Velours ombré Jacquard
EP1251195A1 (fr) * 2001-04-20 2002-10-23 NV Michel van de Wiele Procédé de tissage double pièce de velours ombrés
BE1014129A3 (nl) * 2001-04-20 2003-05-06 Wiele Michel Van De Nv Werkwijze voor het dubbelstukweven van schaduwfluweel.
NL1021569C2 (nl) * 2001-10-03 2004-11-09 Fibertex N V Schaduwfluweelweefsel en werkwijze voor het weven ervan.
BE1015489A3 (fr) * 2001-10-03 2005-05-03 Fibertex Nv Tissu de velours ombre et procede pour son tissage.
CN103911747A (zh) * 2014-04-22 2014-07-09 辽宁采逸野蚕丝制品有限公司 一面毛圈一面丝绒的双色提花织物及其织造方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE89344T1 (de) 1993-05-15
DE3900500C1 (fr) 1990-02-22
EP0380808B1 (fr) 1993-05-12
DE58904354D1 (de) 1993-06-17
ES2044047T3 (es) 1994-01-01

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