EP0044084B1 - Fil texturé de polyester ressemblant à un filé, et procédé pour sa fabrication - Google Patents

Fil texturé de polyester ressemblant à un filé, et procédé pour sa fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0044084B1
EP0044084B1 EP81105534A EP81105534A EP0044084B1 EP 0044084 B1 EP0044084 B1 EP 0044084B1 EP 81105534 A EP81105534 A EP 81105534A EP 81105534 A EP81105534 A EP 81105534A EP 0044084 B1 EP0044084 B1 EP 0044084B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
multifilament
polyester
dyeable
spun
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Expired
Application number
EP81105534A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0044084A1 (fr
Inventor
Horiuchi Takumi
Kuroda Yoji
Hukatsu Kenji
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Teijin Ltd
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Teijin Ltd
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/20—Combinations of two or more of the above-mentioned operations or devices; After-treatments for fixing crimp or curl
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S57/00—Textiles: spinning, twisting, and twining
    • Y10S57/908—Jet interlaced or intermingled
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2922—Nonlinear [e.g., crimped, coiled, etc.]
    • Y10T428/2924—Composite
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2929—Bicomponent, conjugate, composite or collateral fibers or filaments [i.e., coextruded sheath-core or side-by-side type]

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a polyester spun-like textured yarn which has a hand like that created in spun yarns and which provides a woven or knitted fabric having a deep and spectacular heather-like appearance either when the fabric is dyed after it is manufactured or when the yarn is dyed before the fabric is manufactured. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for industrially manufacturing such a spun-like textured yarn.
  • German Patent Application P2902949 discloses a method wherein multifilament yarns having different breaking elongutions are used so that the multifilament yarn with a smaller breaking elongation constitutes the core portion and so that the multifilament yarn with a larger breaking elongation constitutes the wrapper position. Accordingly, the spun-like effect of the obtained yarn is increased. However, if such a yarn is dyed, the color tone of the core portion is conspicuous, and as a result, there occurs another disadvantage in that the yarn has an inferior heather-like appearance.
  • the inventors of the present invention have earnestly conducted basic research. As a result, they have achieved the present invention, i.e., (1) a polyester spun-like textured yarn having a novel double layered structure which is apparently different from that of the conventional one and (2) a method for effectively and industrially manufacturing such a spun-like textured yarn.
  • polyester spun-like textured yarn of the present invention is characterized by the features defined in the appended claims.
  • the method for manufacturing a polyester spun-like yarn of the present invention is characterized by: doubling a partially oriented polyester multifilament yarn (a) which has a breaking elongation of between 100 and 250% and which is not dyeable with ionic dyes, an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (b) which has a breaking elongation of at least 250%, the breaking elongation being higher than that of the partially oriented polyester multifilament yarn (a) by at least 80%, and which is not dyeable with ionic dyes, and an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (c) which has a breaking elongation of at least 250%, the breaking elongation being higher than that of the partially oriented polyester multifilament yarn (a) by at least 80%, and which is dyeable with ionic dyes; subjecting the three multifilament yarns (a), (b) and (c) to an interlacing treatment by means of a turbulent fluid flow in order to mix them; and simultaneously drawing and frictionably false
  • a polyester multifilament yarn which is not dyeable with ionic dyes used herein generally means a multifilament yarn which is composed of either polyethylene terephthalate or polyethylene terephthalate with a small amount of a third component (for example, isophthalic acid, adipic acid and propylene glycols) having no affinity for ionic dyes copolymerized therewith and which is substantially not dyed with ionic dyes, such as acid dyes or basic dyes.
  • a third component for example, isophthalic acid, adipic acid and propylene glycols
  • a polyester multifilament yarn which is dyeable with ionic dyes used herein generally means a multifilament yarn which is composed of either a polyester containing groups, such as sulfonate groups, dyeable with ionic dyes or a polyester blended with a polymer, such as nylon 6 or nylon 66, or additives dyeable with ionic dyes and which is dyeable with ionic dyes.
  • the desirable polyester dyeable with ionic dyes is a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate including 0.5-10 mol% of 5-sulfosodium isophthalic acid as an acid component.
  • the spun-like textured yarn of the present invention is a double layered yarn which comprises: a core portion (a core yarn) comprising a polyester multifilament yarn (A) which is not dyeable with ionic dyes; and a wrapper portion (a sheath yarn) comprising a polyester multifilament yarn (B) which is not dyeabnle with ionic dyes and a polyester multifilament yarn (C) which is dyeable with ionic dyes and together continuously wrapped about the core portion.
  • Some of the filaments constituting the wrapper portion are entangled and interlaced with some of the filaments constituting the core portion in the boundary region between the core portion and the wrapper portion.
  • the sheath yarn alternately wraps about the core yarn (core portion). It is preferable that the wrapper yarn continuously and alternately wraps around the core yarn.
  • German Patent Application P2902949 discloses a spun-like double layered yarn, the core and wrapper portions of which are composed of polyester multifilament yarns having the same chemical composition.
  • the alternately wrapped wrapper yarn which constitutes the sheath portion must be composed of a polyester multifilament yarn (B) which is not dyeable with ionic dyes and a polyester multifilament yarn (C) which is dyeable with ionic dyes. If such a combination is applied to the wrapper yarn, the spun-like yarn of the present invention can achieve both a heather-like effect and a spun-like effect.
  • multifilament yarns (B) and (C) for constituting the sheath portion satisfy the requirements regarding the dyeability with ionic dyes, they are not limited to two kinds and they may be three kinds or more.
  • either one of the multifilament yarns (B) and (C) or both of them may be a blended yarn comprising two or more kinds of multifilament yarns, which differ in their deniers of individual filaments, their cross sectional shapes, or their amounts of delustering agents.
  • the multifilament yarns (B) and (C) In the sheath portion, i.e., wrapper yarn, the multifilament yarns (B) and (C) must be randomly mixed and entangled with each other in order to achieve a good heather-like appearance.
  • the number of the polyester multufilament yarns is not limited to one. As long as they are substantially not dyeable with ionic dyes, two or more kinds of multifilament yarns which differ in their deniers of individual filaments or their cross sectional shapes may be used in a form of a blended yarn or a plied yarn.
  • the denier arrangement of multifilament yarns (A) (B) and (C) constituting a spun-like yarn of the present invention should appropriately be determined, taking into consideration the color tone which is required of a spun-like textured yarn with a heather-like appearance and the final demands.
  • the polyester multifilament yarn (A) constituting the core portion is preferably at least 3 denier
  • the polyester multifilament yarns (B) and (C) constituting the sheath portion is preferably at most 3 denier, when bulk, soft feeling of the surface, rigidity and stiffness of woven or knitted fabric obtained by using the spun-like yarn are taken into consideration.
  • the obtained spun-like yarn has a beautiful heather-like appearance.
  • a spun-like textured yarn has a double layered structure comprising a core portion (core yarn) and a sheath portion (wrapper yarn) as explained above.
  • the sheath portion continuous and alternately wraps about the core portion.
  • some of individual filaments constituting the sheath and core portions are entangled and interlaced with each other to form an interlaced portion, and as a result, the spun-like yarn is united in one body.
  • Figure 1 which illustrates an enlarged side view of an embodiment of a polyester spun-like textured yarn of the present invention having a double layered structure
  • symbol X denotes a core portion which is composed of a polyester multifilament yarn (A) not being dyeable with ionic dyes
  • symbol Y denotes a wrapper portion which is composed of a polyester multifilament yarn (B) not being dyeable with ionic dyes and a polyester multifilament yarn (C) being dyeable with ionic dyes, filaments of the yarns (B) and (C) are mixed with each other.
  • the polyester spun-like textured yarn of the present invention has such a particular double layered structure as explained above, it has a spun-like hand similar to that of a spun textured yarn.
  • the wrapper portion which alternately wraps about the core portion filaments not dyeable with ionic dyes and filaments dyeable with ionic dyes are mixed, and accordingly, if the obtained spun-like yarn is dyed in a dye liquor containing ionic dyes or :f the fabric produced by utilizing such spun-like yarn is dyed in a dye liquor containing ionic dyes, a deep heather-like appearance can be realized.
  • the double layered structure appears as if it is unstable, the spun-like yarn as a whole is extremely stable, especially stable against rubbing, because the filaments constituting the wrapper portion and the core portion are partially entangled and interlaced.
  • the wrapper portion since filaments not dyeable with ionic dyes and filaments dyeable with ionic dyes are randomly mixed, a good heather-like appearance can be obtained when the textured yarn is dyed with ionic dyes or when a fabric woven or knitted from such a textured yarn is dyed with ionic dyes.
  • the spun-like textured yarn having a core portion consisting of a multifilament yarn dyeable with ionic dyes is excluded from the scope of the present invention.
  • a method for industrially manufacturing the above-explained polyester spun-like textured yarn will now be explained.
  • three kinds of yarns i.e., a partially oriented polyester multifilament yarn (a) which has a breaking elongation of between 100 and 250% and which is not dyeable with ionic dyes; an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (b) which has a breaking elongation of at least 250% and which is not dyeable with ionic dyes; and an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (c) which has a breaking elongation of at least 250% and which is dyeable with ionic dyes, and the differences in breaking elongations between (a) and (b), and (a) and (c) are at least 80% (preferably, at least 100%), are doubled first.
  • breaking elongation of the yarn (a) is less than 100%, yarn breakages frequently occur while a draw-texturing operation takes place at a draw- ratio equal to or more than 1.2. If the breaking elongation of the yarn (a) exceeds 250%, the yarn which constitutes the sheath portion does not wrap well, and accordingly, the spun-like effect is decreased. If the breaking elongation of either yarn (b) or yarn (c) is less than 250%, or if the difference in the breaking elongations of either the yarns (a) and (b), or (a) and (c) is less than 80%, the wrapping of the wrapper portion Y around the core portion X is deteriorated, and accordingly, an alternately twisted structure cannot be achieved.
  • the three yarns are doubled, or after they are doubled, they are introduced into a turbulent air flow and subjected to an interlacing treatment, and thereafter, they are simultaneously drawn and friction false twisted at a draw ratio of at least 1.2.
  • the interlacing treatment in a turbulent fluid flow must take place before the simultaneous draw and false twist texturing takes place.
  • the turbulent fluid treatment takes place after the simultaneous draw and false twist texturing takes place, a good spun-like textured yarn cannot be produced because of the inferior intermingling between the wrapper portion and the core portion, since the wrapper portion may slip along the core portion while they are subjected to the texturing.
  • the interlacing treatment is preferably effected under such a condition that the interlacing degree of the obtained yarn is between 20 and 80 per one meter. If the interlacing degree is smaller than 20 per one meter, the separation between the core portion X and the wrapper portion Y in the obtained textured yarn may easily occur, and the mixing of filaments constituting the multi- filameny yarns (B) and (C) in the wrapper yarn Y becomes insufficient. Accordingly, the heather-like effect is decreased. Contrary to this, if the interlacing degree exceeds 80 per meter, the properties of the obtained yarn are degraded.
  • the "interlacing degree" used herein is measured in accordance with the hook drop method disclosed in U.S. Patents No. 2,985,991 and 3,110,151.
  • the draw ratio applied during the simultaneous drawing and false twisting treatment must be at least 1.2, preferably of between 1.3 and 2.0. If the draw ratio is less than 1.2, a good alternately twisted wrapper structure cannot be expected.
  • the tension in the yarn while it is treated is determined, so that the ratio of the tension T 2 in the yarns located at the detwisting side of the tension T, in the yarns located at the twisting side satisfies 0.5 ⁇ T 2 /T 1 ⁇ 0.9. If the ratio T2/Tl exceeds 0.9, the yarns may be separated from each other, because the detwisting force increases. Accordingly, when a fabric is woven with such a yarn, the woven fabric does not have a voluminous feeling and dye-specks may occur, and therefore a ratio T 2 IT, of more than 0.9 is not desirable. Contrary to this, if the ratio T 2 IT, is less than 0,5 the obtained spun-like yarn may become hard.
  • the treating speed may be voluntarily determined. However, it should be pointed out that the treatment can be performed at a speed equal to or higher than 250 m/min in accordance with the present invention.
  • Figure 3 illustrating a schematic side view of a texturing apparatus for simultaneously drawing and friction false twisting for carrying out the method of the present invention 1, denotes a package of a partially oriented polyester multifilament yarn (a) manufactured through high speed spinning, having a breaking elongation of between 100 and 250% and not being dyeable with ionic dyes.
  • Reference numeral 2 denotes a package of an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (b) having a breaking elongation of at least 250% and not being dyeable with ionic dyes.
  • Reference numeral 3 denotes a package of an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn (c) having a breaking elongation of at least 250% and being dyeable with ionic dyes.
  • Three yarns withdrawn from the packages 1, 2 and 3 are doubled at the guide 4 and are fed to a turbulent air nozzle 7 for mixing and interlacing through a tension regulator 5 and a pair of feed rollers 6 and 6', in which nozzle an interlaced yarn having an interlacing degree of between 30 and 100 per meter is produced. Then, the interlaced yarn is fed to a drawing and flase twisting zone by means of a pair of first delivery rollers 8 and 8'. Passing by a heater 9 and an outer friction false twister 10 of three shaft type with a plurality of discs, the yarn is delivered by means of a pair of second delivery rollers 11 and 11' and then is taken up into a cheese 13 by means of a winder 12.
  • Reference numeral 14 denotes a traverse device for moving the yarn to and fro.
  • an interlacing nozzle which is widely utilized in this field for the turbulent air nozzle; however, a "Taslan" nozzle may also be used for the turbulent air nozzle.
  • the yarn, which has been subjected to an interlacing treatment by means of turbulent air can be once wound around a bobbin in some cases, and then it is subsequently subjected to the simultaneous drawing and false twisting treatment.
  • the yarn which has been subjected to an interlacing treatment can successively be subjected to the simultaneous drawing and false twisting treatment without being taken up onto bobbin before the drawing and false twisting treatment.
  • an outer friction false twisting of the three shaft type with a plurality of discs illustrated in Figure 3 is used as a friction false twister, because it serves both to false twist the yarn and to feed the yarn.
  • an improved polyester spun-like yarn which realizes a heather-like appearance when it is dyed with ionic dyes can be produced by which a woven or knitted fabric having an appropriate hand created by the twisted yarn, and appropriate bulkiness and softness can be provided. Furthermore, such a textured yarn can stably be manufactured at a high speed, and the obtained textured yarn is free from any neps when it is rubbed. In addition, when such a textured yarn is used for weaving or knitting, the productivity of the weaving or knitting operation can be increased, and a woven or knitted fabric having a high quality can be obtained.
  • the spun-like yarn produced by the above-explained method has such a structure that the sheath portion alternately wraps about the core portion.
  • the molecular orientations of the multifilament yarns (B) and (C) are relatively low. Accordingly, when the yarn is dyed, the color tone is good, and the heather-like appearance is much superior to that obtained by a conventional method.
  • the polyester spun-like textured yarn of the present invention is in demand for outer wear clothing, which needs ornamental beauty, and for furnishing fabrics, such as curtains.
  • the overfeed ratio between the feed roller and the first delivery roller was 0.5%, and 60 interlacing points per meter were formed by means of a turbulent air nozzle (interlacing nozzle) similar to that disclosed in Figure 38 of U.S. Patent No. 3,110,151 and supplied with compressed air of 4 kg/cm 2 .
  • the interlaced yarn was fed to the drawing and false twisting zone, where it was simultaneously drawn and false twisted under the following conditions, i.e., a draw ratio, 1.49; number of the observed false twists, 2550 T/m; the temperature of the heater, 200°C; and the speed of the second delivery rollers, 250 m/min.
  • the produced textured yarn had an alternately twisted structure, as illustrated in Figure 1,. and was a spun-like textured yarn having the following properties. After a fabric was woven by utilizing this yarn, it was dyed in the following conditions, and a woven fabric having a heather-like and spun-like hand with a deep heather-like appearance was produced.
  • the thus produced textured yarn was a spun-like yarn having an alternatively twisted structure, as illustrated in Figure 1. After a fabric was woven with this yarn, it was dyed under the same condition as those of the Example. Since the filaments dyeable with cationic dyes occurred mostly in the wrapper portion, darkly dyed portions were conspicuous, and the fabric had a poor heather-like appearance.
  • the thus produced textured yarn was a spun-like yarn having an alternately twisted structure, as illustrated in Figure 1.
  • a fabric was woven with this yarn, it was dyed under the same conditions as those of the Example. Since the yarn dyeable with cationic dyes constituted the core yarn, it was visible inside the wrapper yarn. Accordingly, the woven fabric did not achieve a sufficient heather-like appearance.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (7)

1. Fil texturé composite en polyester à l'aspect de filé comprenant un fil d'âme à plusieurs filaments et un fil multiple d'enveloppe qui entoure l'âme de façon alternée, tandis qu'à la frontière entre le fil d'âme et le fil d'enveloppe, certains des filaments du fil d'enveloppe sont extremêlés avec certains des filaments composant le fil d'âme, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'âme (A) ne peut pas être teint par colorants ioniques, et en ce que la partie formée par le fil d'enveloppe comprend un premier fil multiple de polyester (B) ne pouvant pas être teint par colorants ioniques, et un second fil multiple de polyester (C) pouvant être teint par colorants ioniques.
2. Fil en polyester à l'aspect de filé conforme à la revendication 1, dans lequel certains des filaments composant la partie externe du fil d'enveloppe sont coupés et dressés de façon à former des extrémités pelucheuses dépassent de la surface du fil.
3. Fil en polyester à l'aspect de filé conforme à la revendication 1, dans lequel l'épaisseur des filaments individuels constituant le fil multiple (A) de l'âme est d'au moins 3 deniers, l'épaisseur de filaments individuels composant les fils multiples (B) et (C) de l'enveloppe est au plus de 3 deniers, et le rapport entre les deniers totaux des fils multiples (A), (B) et (C) répond à l'équation suivante, la somme de (A), (B) et (C) étant de 100.
Figure imgb0008
4. Procédé pour fabriquer un fil en polyester à l'aspect de filé, comprenant les étapes selon lesquelles:
on associe par doublage un fil multiple partiellement orienté en polyester (a), dont l'allongement à la rupture est compris entre 100 et 250% et qui ne peut pas être teint par colorants ioniques, un fil multiple non étiré en polyester (b) qui ne peut pas être teint par colorants ioniques et dont l'allongement à la rupture est d'au moins 250% et excède d'au moins 80% celui du fil multiple partiellement orienté en polyester (a), et un fil multiple non étiré en polyester (c), qui peut être teint par colorants ioniques et dont l'allongement à la rupture est d'au moins 250% et excède d'au moins 80% celui du fil multiple partiellement orienté en polyester (a);
on soumet ces trois fils multiples (a), (b) et (c) à un traitement d'entrelacement au moyen d'un écoulement de fluide turbulent afin de les mélanger; et
on procède, simultanément, à l'étirage et à une fausse torsion par friction des fils multiples mélangés (a), (b) et (c), le coefficient d'étirage étant au moins de 1, 2.
5. Procédé conforme à la revendication 4, dans lequel le traitement d'entrelacement a lieu jusqu'à ce que le degré d'entrelacement du fil polyester à l'aspect de filé obtenu soit compris entre 20 et 80 par mètre.
6. Procédé conforme à la revendication 4, dans lequel les fils multiples mélangés sont simultanément étirés et soumis à une fausse torsion par friction sous un rapport de tension T2/T1 entre la tension T des fils situés du côté de torsion et la tension T2 des fils situés du côté de détorsion, compris entre 0,5 et 0.9.
7. Procédé conforme à la revendication 4, dans lequel on amène les fils multiples mélangés en contact avec au moins un disque de friction ayant une surface rugueuse pendant qu'ils sont simultanément soumis à un étirage et à une fausse torsion par friction, de sorte que certains des filaments situés sur la face externe des fils multiples mélangés sont coupés et dressés.
EP81105534A 1980-07-15 1981-07-15 Fil texturé de polyester ressemblant à un filé, et procédé pour sa fabrication Expired EP0044084B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP95597/80 1980-07-15
JP9559780A JPS5721526A (en) 1980-07-15 1980-07-15 Polyester spun like processed yarn and method

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0044084A1 EP0044084A1 (fr) 1982-01-20
EP0044084B1 true EP0044084B1 (fr) 1984-06-27

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US (1) US4365466A (fr)
EP (1) EP0044084B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS5721526A (fr)
DE (1) DE3164426D1 (fr)

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DE3164426D1 (en) 1984-08-02
EP0044084A1 (fr) 1982-01-20
US4365466A (en) 1982-12-28
JPS6131216B2 (fr) 1986-07-18
JPS5721526A (en) 1982-02-04

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