CN108823962A - 一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法 - Google Patents
一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法，旨在提供一种染整工艺流程，解决涤纶/涤棉针织面料在深浅（白）色互拼和加入印花图案时，耐升华色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度较低以及易掉色与沾色的问题。该加工方法包括以下步骤：预定型、煮炼、染色、定型。其中染色工艺染涤纶部分采用了单偶氮型分散染料SFN和稳定剂EL‑SF以及其他助剂的配方，尤其适用于涤纶/氨纶针织面料的深浓染色。染棉部分采用了M型活性染料配无醛固色剂以及其他助剂。经过该染整流程加工，涤纶/涤棉针织面料各项色牢度指标可达4～5级，深浅（白）色互拼不沾色，印花高温升华不沾色。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织染整技术领域，特别涉及一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法。
背景技术
以涤纶、涤纶超细纤维、涤纶与氨纶、涤棉混纺纱为原料的针织面料，广泛用于制作休闲服和运动服等产品，深受消费者的喜爱。为增加服装的时尚风格，经常要做深浅（白）色互拼，也会在服装上加入印花图案，使服装的款式更加丰富。现有技术加工的深色涤纶/涤棉针织面料，存在如下问题：（1）印花时热迁移性及耐升华色牢度差，印完后出现掉色沾色；（2）耐皂洗牢度较低：色牢度多纤测试时，其中尼龙和醋酯沾色牢度仅为2-3级，甚至低于2级，远远达不到国标一等品要求的3-4级，更达不到服装拼白要求的4级以上；（3）成本高技术难管控，生产不稳定：目前染厂加工普遍选用染涤后高温定型再进缸还原清洗的方式，成本高又不稳定，要么解决了耐水洗色牢度无法兼顾耐升华色牢度，要么做到了耐升华色牢度克服不了耐水洗色牢度，无法全方位的真正解决问题。
发明内容
本发明克服了现有技术中的缺点，提供了一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法。本发明通过以下技术方案予以实现：
一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法，该面料含有或不含氨纶，其加工方法包括以下步骤：
步骤A：预定型；其工艺如下：定型温度205℃，布速28～32m/min，湿定或干定（仅用于含氨纶的针织面料）；
步骤B：涤纶针织面料的煮炼；其工艺如下：30%氢氧化钠3g/L，27.5%双氧水 3.6g/L（仅用于涤棉针织面料），双氧水稳定剂PL（硅酸钠与羟酸盐类混合物） 1.0g/L（仅用于涤棉针织面料），除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）1～2g/L，渗透剂（脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚）1g/L，浴比1：8，pH值 8.5～9.5，温度98～130℃，时间30～45min；
步骤C：染色；步骤D：定型。
更进一步地，涤纶针织面料的染色工艺如下：
单偶氮分散染料SFN X%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸2g/L，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0；起染水温：40℃；升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠2g/L，温度90℃，时间25min。
更进一步地，涤棉针织面料的染色工艺如下：
（1）先染涤纶
单偶氮分散染料SFN X%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸2g/L，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0；
起染水温：40℃；升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；
保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠2g/L，温度90℃，时间25min。
（2）再套染棉
M型活性染料[邻氨基苯磺酸、H 酸、三聚氯氰和间(2-硫酸酯乙基砜基)苯胺氮化偶合缩合物] X%，硫酸钠70g/L，浴比1：8，起染温度40℃，加入染料和硫酸钠后，以每分钟1℃的速率升温至60℃，保温运行20min；开始加碱：碳酸钠20g/L，缓慢注入，注完后染色保温60℃，运行60min；皂洗两次：水温98℃，时间20min，过酸中和，浮色清洗干净；固色一次：无醛固色剂（双氰胺与二乙烯三胺缩合物）3g/L，温度40℃，时间20min；出缸洗毛：循环溢流清洗干净，烘干待定型。
更进一步地，步骤D的工艺如下：定型温度150～170℃，布速22～30m/min，门幅宽度180～183cm，缩水率W-6% L-6%（仅用于涤棉针织面料），扭度要求 N+3%以内（仅用于涤棉针织面料）。
本发明与现有技术相比具有以下有益效果：（1）各项色牢度指标可达4～5级，深浅（白）色互拼不沾色，印花高温升华不沾色，尤其适用于涤纶/氨纶针织面料的深浓染色；（2）染色过程稳定，管控简单，重现性好，重修率低。
附图说明
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明进一步说明。
图1是本发明的实施例1的染色工艺曲线；
图2是本发明的实施例2的染色工艺曲线；
图3是本发明的实施例3的染色工艺曲线；
其中：A：分散染料SFN系列 x%，B:冰醋酸 2g/L,C:稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L,D:烧碱1-2g/L,E:保险粉2-3g/L。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步详细描述。
实施例1
一种涤纶针织面料的高色牢度染整加工方法，织物为83dtex/72F涤纶大网眼布，包括以下步骤：煮炼、染色、定型。
（1）煮炼工艺
30%氢氧化钠3g/L，除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）1g/L，渗透剂（脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚）1g/L，浴比 1：8，pH值 8.5～9.5，温度 130℃，时间30min。
（2）染色工艺（深宝兰色）
分散金黄SFN 200% 0.3%，分散红玉SFN 200% 0.3%，分散藏青SFN 200% 3.5%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸（冰醋酸）2g/L，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产；
起染水温：40℃；
升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；
保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；
还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠（烧碱）2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠（保险粉）2g/L（加料温度在85℃左右，间隔10分钟，分两次加入），温度90℃，时间25min。
染色工艺曲线如图1。
（3）定型工艺
定型温度150℃，布速30m/min，门幅宽度180cm，面密度150g/m2。
（4）色牢度测试
| 指标 | 测试结果（级） |
| 耐皂洗色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐汗渍色牢度 | 耐酸汗渍4～5，耐碱汗渍4～5 |
| 耐升华色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐日晒色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐摩擦色牢度 | 4 |
实施例2
一种超细涤纶纤维/氨纶针织面料的高色牢度染整加工方法，织物为110dtex/144F涤纶低弹丝（89.5%）+44dtex氨纶（10.5%）交织平纹布，包括以下步骤：预定型、煮炼、染色、定型。
（1）预定型工艺
定型温度205℃，布速28m/min，过水定，加入除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）0.5 g/L。
（2）煮炼工艺
30%氢氧化钠3g/L，除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）2g/L，渗透剂（脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚）1g/L，浴比 1：8，pH值 8.5～9.5，温度 130℃，时间30mi；
（3）染色工艺（黑色）
分散黄棕SFN 300% 0.15%，分散深红SFN 200% 0.11%，分散黑SFN-BT 200% 4.0%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸（冰醋酸）2g/L，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产；
起染水温：40℃；
升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；
保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；
还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠（烧碱）2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠（保险粉）2g/L（加料温度在85℃左右，间隔10分钟，分两次加入），温度90℃，时间25min。
染色工艺曲线如图2。
（4）定型工艺
定型温度150℃，布速30m/min，门幅宽度180cm，面密度170g/m2。
（5）色牢度测试
| 指标 | 测试结果（级） |
| 耐皂洗色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐汗渍色牢度 | 耐酸汗渍4～5，耐碱汗渍4～5 |
| 耐升华色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐日晒色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐摩擦色牢度 | 4 |
实施例3
一种涤棉/氨纶针织面料的高色牢度染整加工方法，织物为18.2tex精梳全棉纱（63.3%）+220dtex/96F涤纶低弹丝（32%）+44dtex氨纶（4.7%）斜纹卫衣布，棉为面涤为底，包括以下步骤：预定型、煮炼、染色、定型。
（1）预定型工艺
定型温度205℃，布速32m/min，干定。
（2）煮炼工艺
30%氢氧化钠3g/L，27.5%双氧水 3.6g/L，双氧水稳定剂PL（硅酸钠与羟酸盐类混合物）1.0g/L，除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）2g/L，渗透剂（脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚）1g/L，浴比1：8，pH值8.5～9.5，温度98℃，时间45min。
（3）染色工艺（大红色）
① 先染涤纶
分散橙SFN-4R 0.75%，分散深红SFN 200% 0.4%，分散艳红SFN 200% 1.0%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸（冰醋酸）2g/L，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产；
起染水温：40℃；
升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；
保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；
还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠（烧碱）2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠（保险粉）2g/L（加料温度在85℃左右，间隔10分钟，分两次加入），温度90℃，时间25min。
染色工艺曲线如图3。
② 再套染棉
M型活性染料[邻氨基苯磺酸、H 酸、三聚氯氰和间(2-硫酸酯乙基砜基)苯胺氮化偶合缩合物]：黄3RS 1.03%，红3BS 0.36%，红F2B 2.0%，硫酸钠70g/L，浴比1：8，起染温度40℃，加入染料和硫酸钠后，以每分钟1℃的速率升温至60℃，保温运行20min；
开始加碱：碳酸钠20g/L，缓慢注入，注完后染色保温60℃，运行60min；
皂洗两次：水温98℃，时间20min，过酸中和，浮色清洗干净；
固色一次：无醛固色剂（双氰胺与二乙烯三胺缩合物） 3g/L，温度40℃，时间20min；
出缸洗毛：循环溢流清洗干净，烘干待定型。
（4）定型工艺
定型温度170℃，布速22m/min，门幅宽度183cm，面密度270g/m2，缩水率 W-6% L-6%，扭度要求 N+3%以内。
（5）色牢度测试
| 指标 | 测试结果（级） |
| 耐皂洗色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐汗渍色牢度 | 耐酸汗渍4～5，耐碱汗渍4～5 |
| 耐升华色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐日晒色牢度 | 4 |
| 耐摩擦色牢度 | 棉面：耐干摩擦4，耐湿摩擦2～3；涤底：耐干湿擦均为4 |
虽然本发明已以实施例公开如上，但其并非用以限定本发明的保护范围，任何熟悉该项技术的技术人员，在不脱离本发明的构思和范围内所作的更动与润饰，均应属于本发明的保护范围。基于此处的解释，本领域的技术人员不需要付出创造性的劳动即可联想到本发明的其它具体实施方式，这些方式都将落入本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (4)
1.一种高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法，其特征在于：该面料含有或不含氨纶，其加工方法包括以下步骤： 步骤A：预定型；其工艺如下：定型温度205℃，布速28～32m/min，湿定或干定（仅用于含氨纶的针织面料）；步骤B：涤纶针织面料的煮炼；其工艺如下：30%氢氧化钠3g/L，27.5%双氧水 3.6g/L（仅用于涤棉针织面料），双氧水稳定剂PL（硅酸钠与羟酸盐类混合物），1.0g/L（仅用于涤棉针织面料），除油剂（脂肪酸甲脂乙氧基化物）1～2g/L，渗透剂（脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚）1g/L，浴比 1：8，pH值 8.5～9.5，温度98～130℃，时间30～45min；步骤C：染色；步骤D：定型。
2.根据权利要求1所述的高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法，其特征在于：涤纶针织面料的染色工艺如下：单偶氮分散染料SFN X%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸2g/L，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0；起染水温：40℃；升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠2g/L，温度90℃，时间25min。
3.根据权利要求1所述的高色牢度涤纶/涤棉针织面料的加工方法，其特征在于：涤棉针织面料的染色工艺如下：（1）先染涤纶单偶氮分散染料SFN X%，稳定剂EL-SF 2g/L，乙酸2g/L，分散染料SFN与稳定剂EL-SF均为浙江昱泰染化科技有限公司生产，浴比1：8，pH值3.85～4.0；起染水温：40℃；升温速度：110℃以前2～3℃/min，110℃以后1～1.5℃/min；保温温度与时间：125～135℃，60min；还原清洗：30%氢氧化钠2g/L，连二亚硫酸钠2g/L，温度90℃，时间25min；（2）再套染棉M型活性染料[邻氨基苯磺酸、H 酸、三聚氯氰和间(2-硫酸酯乙基砜基)苯胺氮化偶合缩合物] X%，硫酸钠70g/L，浴比1：8，起染温度40℃，加入染料和硫酸钠后，以每分钟1℃的速率升温至60℃，保温运行20min；开始加碱：碳酸钠20g/L，缓慢注入，注完后染色保温60℃，运行60min；皂洗两次：水温98℃，时间20min，过酸中和，浮色清洗干净；固色一次：无醛固色剂（双氰胺与二乙烯三胺缩合物）3g/L，温度40℃，时间20min；出缸洗毛：循环溢流清洗干净，烘干待定型。
4.根据权利要求1所述的高色牢度涤纶针织面料的加工方法，其特征在于：步骤D的工艺如下：定型温度150～170℃，布速22～30m/min，门幅宽度180～183cm，缩水率W-6% L-6%（仅用于涤棉针织面料），扭度要求 N+3%以内（仅用于涤棉针织面料）。
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Application publication date: 20181116 |