CN104027293B - A kind of skin-lightening cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

A kind of skin-lightening cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN104027293B
CN104027293B CN201410295928.7A CN201410295928A CN104027293B CN 104027293 B CN104027293 B CN 104027293B CN 201410295928 A CN201410295928 A CN 201410295928A CN 104027293 B CN104027293 B CN 104027293B
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extract
skin
mixture
lightening cosmetic
sunflower
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CN104027293A (en
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王忠良
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Global Cosmetics (China) Co., Ltd.
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GLOBAL COSMETICS (CHINA) CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of skin-lightening cosmetics and preparation method thereof.The present invention is that mainly have rice bran extract, gadol extract, ginkgo biloba p.e, tea polyphenols, lemon juice concentrate, chitosan, kudzu root extract, konjaku powder, floral disc of sunflower extract, sunflower seed benevolence extract, gleditsia sinensis benevolence, hemicellulose, honey using various plants composition as primary raw material;In addition, also containing a small amount of glycerine, 1,3 propylene glycol, saualane, Sodium Hyaluronate, carbomer, triethanolamine, allantoin, nano-titanium dioxide, collagen protein powder, antiseptic, the different monooctyl ester of ferulic acid and glutathione.The composition can be used in whitening formula, has effects that skin whitening, moisturizing, antibacterial anti-inflammatory, removes free radical, inhibit melanin to be formed, inhibit dopachrome interconvertible enzyme and tyrosinase activity.

Description

A kind of skin-lightening cosmetic and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to natural products to utilize field, and in particular to a kind of skin-lightening cosmetic and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
It is everyone person's character to pursue beautiful appearance, and the state of skin and appearance are wherein important composition portions Part, healthy and pale skin is that everybody is pursued.For this purpose, the demand to skin-lightening cosmetic occupies always various cosmetics demands First of.The product that national daily use chemicals industry is related to whitening at present accounts for one third, and there are more than 3800 daily chemical industry, every family in China Whitening product is no less than 10 sections substantially, and some even accounts for product proportion 80%, and just there is more than 1300 cosmetics life in only Guangdong Province Produce enterprise.
Skin histology is the first layer protective barrier of people, and broad sense can be divided into epidermis, corium and subcutaneous tissue.The face of skin Color is mainly determined according to quantity, size and distribution containing melanin in Skin Cell.
The problem of for skin-whitening, depends primarily on the ability of melanocyte synthesis of melanin.In the epidermis base of people Bottom iuntercellular, is dispersed with melanocyte, and the tyrosinase that it contains can be by oxidizing tyrosine at polysaccharide, and tyrosinase is A kind of polyphenol enzyme, belongs to redox enzymes, and centre can finally generate melanin using a series of metabolic process. Melanin production is more, and skin is pitch-darker;Conversely, then skin is more pale.Tyrosinase has unique dual catalytic work( Can, it is the key enzyme of B16 cell in organism, the aging with people has substantial connection.Its abnormal overexpression can lead to human body Pigmentation disease.Tyrosinase inhibitor can treat common chromatodermatosis such as freckle, yellowish-brown at present Spot, senile plaque.So the ursin in popular skin-lightening cosmetic, vitamin C derivatives, kojic acid and its spreading out currently on the market Chinese medical extracts such as biology, green-tea extract, licorice etc. are tyrosinase inhibitor, mainly by inhibiting junket ammonia The activity of sour enzyme and reach inhibition B16 cell, and then play skin whitening effect.
In a kind of lightening compositions of patent CN201010214873.4, a kind of lightening compositions, the composition are disclosed Contain mulberry bark extract, camomile extract, gadol extract, grape seed extract, licorice, the extraction of chicken mulberry Object, ursin, kojic dipalmitate, niacinamide, tetrahydro curcumin, moisturizer and preservative, effective whitening in the invention Ingredient can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, block melanin transport, inhibit melanin to be formed, can be used for skin-lightening cosmetic In, safely and effectively.In a kind of whitening plant extract combinations of patent CN201310210916.5 and its answering in cosmetics In, a kind of plant composition with whitening function and its application in skin-lightening cosmetic, the plant of the invention are disclosed Composition is extracted by mulberry bark extract, licorice, peony extract, Flos Bombacis Malabarici extract, angelica extract, the root bark of tree peony Object compounds.The plant composition of the invention can be used in whitening formula, has and inhibits tyrosinase activity, removes free radical With the function of skin whitening.In a kind of skin-lightening cosmetics of patent CN201210511695.0 and preparation method thereof, one is disclosed Kind skin-lightening cosmetic, the composition by weight percentage, are made of the following raw material:50~70wt% cucumber seeds oil, 15~ 25wt% St. john's worts oil, 15~25wt% pot marigold oils, preparation method are:By 50~70wt% cucumber seeds oil, 15~25wt% St. john's wort oil, 15~25wt% pot marigold oils, mix at a temperature of 20~25 DEG C, stir evenly to get product;U.S. of the invention Albefaction cosmetic, is made by crude vegetal, green, safety, non-stimulated to skin.
For skin-lightening cosmetic, China has abundant animal and plant resource, modern biotechnology can be made full use of to carry The active constituent in animals and plants, the research of comprehensive lightening mechanism, then scientific compatibility are taken, is brought out the best in each other, can be obtained various natural Cosmetics, to achieve the effect that skin whitening, this is to the abundant of China's whitening cosmetic product and pushes China's cosmetic industry all It has important practical significance.
In above-mentioned patented method, use raw material for rice bran extract, ginkgo biloba p.e, tea polyphenols, lemon juice, shell Glycan, kudzu root extract, konjaku powder, floral disc of sunflower extract, sunflower seed benevolence extract, gleditsia sinensis benevolence, hemicellulose and The animal and plant extracts reflex such as honey there are no report with skin-lightening cosmetic is prepared at the national level by document and patent retrieval Road.
Existing skin-lightening cosmetic is primarily present problems with and defect:
(1)There is the irritation to skin in part skin-lightening cosmetic, because often containing acid, alkali, salt, table in skin-lightening cosmetic The chemically ingredient such as face activating agent.These chemical substances act on after mucous membrane of skin, organ etc. through often causing irritation skin Skin lesion, also known as irritation contact dermatitis, are a kind of most commonly seen skin lesion and skin caused by skin-lightening cosmetic The acute inflammation that part occurs rapidly.In addition, the group branch also in the whitening product of part is deposited in body, can not excrete It goes, can lead to that blood is unsmooth, aging phenomenon of skin, generate dark sore, color spot, skin sallow, wrinkle increase, relaxation, and skin is new Old metabolism slows down.It can even be entered by placenta in fetus body, endanger the development of fetal central nervous system, cause harmful effect.
(2)Product stability is low, many anti-oxidant chemical efficiency ingredients of skin-lightening cosmetic, all carries one or several insatiable hungers And double bond, these functional components because its stronger reproducibility can play the effect of inhibition melanin in skin, but are being made When cosmetics finished product, then because its exposure in air more than the moon even a couple of days, just under the action ofs oxygen, light, metal ion etc. not Saturated bond deactivation, loses whitening active, to keep whitening effect poor.
(3)Whitening approach is single, and melanin is generated by the chemical reaction of a series of complex, can have a plurality of approach to press down Make its generation.And the whitening product overwhelming majority on Cosmetic Market is and every only based on tyrosinase inhibitor at present Year finds such new compound with faster speed.But various whitening additives can only all inhibit an approach, and fail complete Play the role of to face inhibiting melanin.
(4)Existing whitening cosmetic product is to embody effect, intentionally adds a variety of chemical compositions and uses hormone, though to skin Skin has tender white effect, it is possible to reduce wrinkle, but some Management of Cosmetics Enterprises can add taboo regulated substance in its product(Such as antibiotic Class).These contain hormone cosmetics be used for a long time after, can make skin to hormone generate rely in addition systemic damage, one Denier, which deactivates, there is also the reaction of the hormonal dependents scytitis such as pigmentations such as erythema, papule, exudation, telangiectasis.
According to above-mentioned deficiency, which is mainly improved optimization from the following aspect:
The first, using pure natural on-chemically modified or synthesis composition
It is proved that there is significant white-skinned face function there are many whitening active ingredients, but due to its existing irritation, shakiness The various defects such as qualitative significantly limit application and effect of product.Therefore, there is preferable white-skinned face function in guarantee product Under the premise of reduce application to these compounds to the greatest extent, the appearance for causing the above problem can be significantly improved.
The second, the composition for generating stimulation to skin is not added, and ensures its safety
Stimulate sex chromosome mosaicism for existing for the whitening active ingredients of part, can in prescription more additions it is pure natural, it is mild and in Property animal and plant extracts, make product while reaching white-skinned face function, irritation reduce, be really achieved the mesh of safe whitening 's.
Third, combination different approaches, comprehensive skin whitening
Whitening active ingredients are subjected to scientific composition, it is multi-pronged, inhibit melanogenesis from different approaches, is finally reached complete The purpose of face whitening.By inhibiting melanin production, inhibits melanin to transmit, smash the approach such as melanin and cleaning cortex to reach To the purpose of skin whitening.
Invention content
The purpose of the present invention is obtain one kind by using Yunnan and some living resources extracts of other local characteristics Skin-lightening cosmetic nonirritant to human skin, whitening effect is good, safe, the cosmetics press the hundred of composition gross mass Score meter contains rice bran extract 3-5%, gadol extract 0.2-1%, ginkgo biloba p.e 0.2-1%, lemon juice 0.2- 0.5%, chitosan 0.2-2%, kudzu root extract 0.2-1%, konjaku powder 0.2-2%, floral disc of sunflower extract 0.3-2%, Xiang Althea seed kernel extract 0.3-2%, gleditsia sinensis benevolence 0.5-3%, hemicellulose 0.3-2%, honey 0.3-2%.
Also contain other auxiliary materials in the present composition, constituent and its mass percent are:Rice bran extract 3- 5%, gadol extract 0.2-1%, ginkgo biloba p.e 0.2-1%, tea polyphenols 0.02-0.4%, lemon juice 0.4-2%, shell are poly- Sugared 0.2-2%, kudzu root extract 0.2-1%, konjaku powder 0.2-2%, floral disc of sunflower extract 0.3-2%, sunflower seed benevolence carry Take object 0.3-2%, gleditsia sinensis benevolence 0.5-3%, hemicellulose 0.3-2%, honey 0.3-2%, glycerine 2-5%, 1,3- propylene glycol 2-4%, angle Shark alkane 2-6%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05-2%, carbomer 0.5-1.0%, triethanolamine 0.5-1.0%, allantoin 0.1-0.3%, two The different monooctyl ester 0.1-2% of titanium oxide 0.1-1%, collagen protein powder 0.8-3%, antiseptic 0.1-0.2%, ferulic acid, glutathione 1-2%, Remaining as water.
Sunflower seed benevolence extract is by after immature sunflower seed benevolence drying and crushing, with ethyl alcohol, methanol in the present invention Or acetone reflux extracts crushed material, extracting solution is made after being concentrated and dried, and the mass percent concentration of ethyl alcohol, methanol or acetone is 70-80%。
The sunflower seed floral disc extract is after being in florescence immature floral disc of sunflower drying and crushing, to use second Alcohol, methanol or acetone reflux extract crushed material, and extracting solution is made after being concentrated and dried, ethyl alcohol, methanol or acetone mass percent A concentration of 30-50%.
Heretofore described rice bran extract, gadol extract, ginkgo biloba p.e, tea polyphenols, chitosan, pueraria lobata Extract, konjaku powder, gleditsia sinensis benevolence, honey, glycerine, 1,3- propylene glycol, saualane, Sodium Hyaluronate, carbomer, three ethyl alcohol The different monooctyl ester of amine, allantoin, titanium dioxide, collagen protein powder, antiseptic, ferulic acid, glutathione are conventional commercial product.
Heretofore described lemon juice be lemon juicing after filter to get filtrate.
Heretofore described hemicellulose can by it is commercially available or with reference to Zhang Baikun, Zhang Meiyun et al. in periodical " Heilungkiang The method separation and Extraction described in document " hemicellulose extractive technique and Development of Comprehensive Utilization " in papermaking ".
Another object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of skin-lightening cosmetic, includes the following steps:
(1)Glycerine, rice bran extract and 1,3- propylene glycol is added in Sodium Hyaluronate, allantoin, the different monooctyl ester of ferulic acid It mixes in oil phase, stirs and evenly mixs for use;
(2)By gadol extract, ginkgo biloba p.e, tea polyphenols, kudzu root extract, floral disc of sunflower extract, to Day althea seed kernel extract, titanium dioxide, collagen protein powder and glutathione mixing, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:The ratio of 5-15 is in mixture Water is added to stir 30-120min, mixing speed 50-500r/min, for use;
(3)After konjaku powder and hemicellulose are mixed, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:The ratio of 5-15 adds water and adds in the mixture Heat to temperature is that 70-90 DEG C of stirring is for use to being completely dissolved, mixing speed 50-200r/min;
(4)After gleditsia sinensis benevolence is dried, it is milled to more than 200 mesh, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:The ratio of 5-15 is put into 40-50 DEG C of warm water Middle to impregnate 24 hours or more, filtering and collecting filter liquid is for use;
(5)Chitosan lemon juice is pressed into solid-to-liquid ratio 1:2-6 fully dissolves, for use;
(6)By step(2), step(3), step(4)And step(5)Step is added in the mixture of middle acquisition(1)In it is mixed It closes in object, is uniformly mixed under the conditions of speed of agitator 30-400r/min;
(7)In step(6)Saualane is added in the mixture of acquisition to stir evenly, then adds carbomer and three ethyl alcohol Amine is uniformly mixed, and is eventually adding honey and antiseptic, is added surplus water and is uniformly mixed;
(8)By step(7)The mixture of middle acquisition is pumped into homogenizer, is vacuumized in -0.04--0.08MPa, stirring, equal After matter 5-10min, homogenizer rotating speed be 1000-3000r/min;
(9)To step(8)The mixture of middle acquisition carries out closed ageing at normal temperatures, and digestion time 12-36h has been aged At rear up to skin-lightening cosmetic.
The advantages of the method for the present invention and technique effect:
1, the product obtained in the present invention makes sunflower, rice bran, rhodiola root, ginkgo leaf, lemon, chitosan, pueraria lobata, evil spirit The animal and plant extracts such as taro, gleditsia sinensis, hemicellulose and honey obtain high value added utilization, are a kind of natural whiting cosmetics.
2, heretofore described cosmetics and preparation method thereof are with technique is relatively simple, cost is relatively low, compound emulsion Feature with obvious effects afterwards, safety is good.
3, the cosmetics can be used as the whitening products such as lotion, essence, lotion.
Specific implementation mode
Below by embodiment, invention is further described in detail, but the scope of the present invention is not limited in described Hold, the method used unless otherwise specified in embodiment is conventional method, and the reagent used is routine unless otherwise specified Commercial reagent.
Embodiment 1:This skin-lightening cosmetic constituent and its mass percent are rice bran extract 3%, gadol extract 0.2%, ginkgo biloba p.e 0.2%, tea polyphenols 0.02%, lemon juice 0.8%, chitosan 0.2%, kudzu root extract 0.2%, konjaku Fine powder 0.2%, floral disc of sunflower extract 0.3%, sunflower seed benevolence extract 0.3%, gleditsia sinensis benevolence 0.5%, hemicellulose 0.3%, bee Honey 0.3%, glycerine 2%, 1,3- propylene glycol 2%, saualane 2%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1%, carbomer 0.5%, triethanolamine 0.5%, urine The different monooctyl ester 2% of Bursin 0.1%, titanium dioxide 0.1%, collagen protein powder 0.8%, antiseptic Phenoxyethanol 0.1%, ferulic acid, gluathione Peptide 1%, remaining as water.
The preparation method of the said goods is as follows:
(1)Glycerine 2%, rice bran extraction is added in Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1%, allantoin 0.1% and the different monooctyl ester 0.1% of ferulic acid In the mixing oil phase of object 3% and 1,3-PD 2%, stir and evenly mix for use;
(2)By gadol extract 0.2%, ginkgo biloba p.e 0.2%, tea polyphenols 0.02%, kudzu root extract 0.2%, to Day sunflower disk extract 0.3%, sunflower seed benevolence extract 0.3%, nano-titanium dioxide 0.1%, collagen protein powder 0.8% and paddy Guang Sweet peptide 1% is added to the container, then presses solid-to-liquid ratio 1:15 are added water, under conditions of low whipping speed 50r/min, time 30min, stir It mixes uniformly for use;
(3)Konjaku powder 0.2% and hemicellulose 0.3% are added to the container, then press solid-to-liquid ratio 1:15 are added water, then add Heat to temperature is 70 ° of С, and under conditions of mixing speed 50r/min, time 10min, stirring is for use to being completely dissolved;
(4)After taking gleditsia sinensis benevolence 0.5% to dry, 300 mesh are milled to, solid-to-liquid ratio 1 is pressed in 40 ° of С warm water:15 impregnate, the time It is 24 hours, for use with 200 mesh filter screen filtering and collecting filter liquids;
(5)Take chitosan 0.2% with lemon juice 0.8% by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:4 fully dissolvings, after it is for use;
(6)By step 2), step 3), step 4)With step 5)Step 1 is added in the solution or mixture of middle acquisition)In It mixes in oil phase, is uniformly mixed at time 0.5h, speed of agitator 30r/min;
(7)In step 6)Saualane 2% is added in the mixture of middle acquisition to be uniformly mixed, adds carbomer 0.5% It is uniformly mixed with triethanolamine 0.5%;
(9)In step 8)Honey 0.3% and antiseptic Phenoxyethanol 0.1% are added in the mixture of middle acquisition, then adds surplus Remaining water is uniformly mixed;
(10)By step 9)The mixture of middle acquisition is pumped into homogenizer, is vacuumized in -0.04MPa, stirring, homogeneous 5min Afterwards, homogenizer rotating speed is 1000r/min;
(11)To step 10)The mixture of middle acquisition carries out closed ageing, digestion time 12h at normal temperatures, and ageing is completed After can be obtained a kind of skin-lightening cosmetic.
The index of correlation after using the present embodiment method is measured using common detection methods, wherein tyrosine enzyme activity Property assay method use Mushroom tyrosinase DOPA rate oxidizing process, respectively with spectrophotometry measure superoxide anion from By the scavenging effect of base and to Hydroxyl Radical Scavenging, specific targets data are as follows:
Experimental project Tyrosinase vigor inhibits Scavenging effect to ultra-oxygen anion free radical To hydroxyl radical free radical scavenging effect
Inhibiting rate(%) 85.8 34.6 53.2
In addition, to its PFA value (sun care preparations long wave ultraviolet protection index) and spf value(Sun protection factor)It is surveyed Fixed, PFA values and spf value are respectively PFA values 7, SPF15.
Testing result shows that the skin-lightening cosmetic, which is used for a long time, can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and remove freely The effect of base effectively slows down the aggregate velocity of melanin, and the absorption and antitan agent to ultraviolet light have good effect, simultaneously Also have the function of moisturizing, moisturizing, skin care and brilliant white, and there is safety and nonirritant to human skin.

Claims (7)

1. a kind of skin-lightening cosmetic, it is characterised in that contain based on the percentage of composition gross mass:Rice bran extract 3~5%, Gadol extract 0.2~1%, ginkgo biloba p.e 0.2~1%, tea polyphenols 0.02~0.4%, lemon juice 0.4~2%, shell are poly- Sugar 0.2~2%, kudzu root extract 0.2~1%, konjaku powder 0.2~2%, floral disc of sunflower extract 0.3~2%, sunflower seed Benevolence extract 0.3~2%, gleditsia sinensis benevolence 0.5~3%, hemicellulose 0.3~2%, honey 0.3~2%, glycerine 2~5%, 1,3- the third two Alcohol 2~4%, saualane 2~6%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05~2%, carbomer 0.5~1.0%, triethanolamine 0.5~1.0%, allantois The different monooctyl ester of element 0.1~0.3%, titanium dioxide 0.1~1%, collagen protein powder 0.8~3%, antiseptic 0.1~0.2%, ferulic acid 0.1 ~2%, glutathione 1~2%, remaining as water.
2. skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Sunflower seed benevolence extract is by immature to day After althea seed kernel drying and crushing, crushed material is extracted with ethyl alcohol, methanol or acetone reflux, extracting solution is made after being concentrated and dried, ethyl alcohol, first The mass percent concentration of alcohol or acetone is 70~80%.
3. skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Sunflower seed floral disc extract is will to be in the florescence not After ripe floral disc of sunflower drying and crushing, crushed material is extracted with ethyl alcohol, methanol or acetone reflux, extracting solution is made after being concentrated and dried , the mass percent concentration of ethyl alcohol, methanol or acetone is 30~50%.
4. skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Antiseptic is in hydantoins, Phenoxyethanol, propolis One kind or arbitrary ratio mixture.
5. skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Rice bran extract, gadol extract, ginkgo leaf carry Object, tea polyphenols, hemicellulose is taken to need to carry out adsorption bleaching, adsorbing and removing pigment, metal ion and other impurities before use.
6. skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 5, it is characterised in that:To rice bran extract, gadol extract, ginkgo leaf Extract, tea polyphenols, hemicellulose carry out adsorption bleaching, are made using carclazyte, activated carbon, macroreticular resin, attapulgite and zeolite For adsorbent.
7. the preparation method of skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1, it is characterised in that including following processing steps:
(1)Sodium Hyaluronate, allantoin, the different monooctyl ester of ferulic acid are added to the mixing of glycerine, rice bran extract and 1,3- propylene glycol In oil phase, stir and evenly mix for use;
(2)By gadol extract, ginkgo biloba p.e, tea polyphenols, kudzu root extract, floral disc of sunflower extract, sunflower Seed benevolence extract, titanium dioxide, collagen protein powder and glutathione mixing, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:5~15 ratio adds in mixture Water stirs 30~120min, 50~500r/min of mixing speed, for use;
(3)After konjaku powder and hemicellulose are mixed, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:5~15 ratio adds water and is heated in the mixture Temperature is that 70~90 DEG C of stirrings are for use to being completely dissolved, 50~200r/min of mixing speed;
(4)After gleditsia sinensis benevolence is dried, it is milled to more than 200 mesh, by solid-to-liquid ratio 1:5~15 ratio is put into 40~50 DEG C of warm water Impregnate 24 hours or more, filtering and collecting filter liquid is for use;
(5)Chitosan lemon juice is pressed into solid-to-liquid ratio 1:2~6 fully dissolvings, for use;
(6)By step(2), step(3), step(4)And step(5)Step is added in the mixture of middle acquisition(1)In mixture In, it is uniformly mixed under the conditions of 30~400r/min of speed of agitator;
(7)In step(6)Saualane is added in the mixture of acquisition to stir evenly, then adds carbomer and triethanolamine stirs It mixes uniformly mixed, is eventually adding honey and antiseptic, adds surplus water and be uniformly mixed;
(8)By step(7)The mixture of middle acquisition is pumped into homogenizer, is vacuumized in -0.04~-0.08MPa, stirring, homogeneous 5 ~10min, homogenizer rotating speed are 1000~3000r/min;
(9)To step(8)The mixture of middle acquisition carries out closed ageing, 12~36h of digestion time, after the completion of ageing at normal temperatures Up to skin-lightening cosmetic.
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