WO2019044293A1 - Tricot double - Google Patents

Tricot double Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019044293A1
WO2019044293A1 PCT/JP2018/028007 JP2018028007W WO2019044293A1 WO 2019044293 A1 WO2019044293 A1 WO 2019044293A1 JP 2018028007 W JP2018028007 W JP 2018028007W WO 2019044293 A1 WO2019044293 A1 WO 2019044293A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
double knit
polyurethane
elongation
knitting
Prior art date
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PCT/JP2018/028007
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
木津　祐晴
克彦 柳
Original Assignee
セーレン株式会社
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Application filed by セーレン株式会社 filed Critical セーレン株式会社
Priority to CN201880056063.5A priority Critical patent/CN111051588B/zh
Publication of WO2019044293A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019044293A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to plating knitted double knits.
  • Patent Document 1 discloses a double knit in which a polyurethane yarn having a thermal deformation start temperature of 150 to 190 ° C. and a yarn such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol or other synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber, natural fiber or the like are plated and knitted. Is disclosed. According to Patent Document 1, knitting is performed such that yarns other than elastic yarns appear on both sides of the knitted fabric and the elastic yarns appear on the inside of the knitted fabric, so that the cutting of the cutting portion is unnecessary (Hemmingless), A knitted fabric in which the occurrence of curling is suppressed is obtained.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a double knit which can reduce the mass and thickness per unit area of the knitted fabric while hardly causing eye mucus and having the same or more stretching force as the conventional knitted fabric. I assume.
  • the present invention is a double knit in which a first knitting yarn and a second knitting yarn are plated and knitted, wherein the first knitting yarn is other than the first polyurethane yarn and the first polyurethane yarn. And a non-elastic yarn, wherein the second knitting yarn comprises a second polyurethane yarn.
  • the mass per unit area is hard to produce eye mucus, and has the same durability and stretchability as conventional knitted fabrics or more. And the thickness can be reduced.
  • the fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 19 to 112 dtex in terms of improving the knitting property and obtaining a double knit having a high stretchability.
  • the fineness of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56 dtex.
  • the fineness of the inelastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56 dtex in terms of easily preventing double-knitted eyes and run.
  • the thermal deformation onset temperature of the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190.degree. This is because when the double knit is heat-set, the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns are likely to be in contact and deformed, and to be appropriately fixed in that state.
  • the double knit is stretched in the latitudinal direction at a tensile speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min to an elongation of 80%, and then the process of recovering to the original state at a speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min is performed three times.
  • Power value P1 obtained by dividing the sum of stress ST1 (30) at the time of elongation to an elongation of 30% and stress SR1 (30) at the time of contraction and recovery to an elongation of 30% at the third time of the above treatment.
  • (30) is preferably 70 to 180 cN. In this case, the double knit has high stretchability.
  • the value obtained by dividing the power value P1 (30) by the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN ⁇ m 2 / g.
  • the process of recovering the original state at a speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min is performed three times.
  • the stress SR1 (15) at the time of contraction and recovery to an elongation of 15% in the second cycle is preferably 20 to 100 cN. In this case, the double knit has a high contraction force even in the low elongation region.
  • the value obtained by dividing the stress SR1 (15) by the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 0.07 to 1 cN ⁇ m 2 / g.
  • the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 100 to 260 g / m 2 . Even such a light double knit has high stretchability.
  • the double knit of this embodiment includes a first knitting yarn and a second knitting yarn.
  • the first yarn comprises a composite yarn comprising a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn
  • the second yarn comprises a second polyurethane yarn.
  • the double knit is plated so that the first knit yarn appears on both surfaces of the double knit and the second knit yarn is disposed inside the double knit.
  • non-elastic yarn means yarn other than elastic yarn.
  • the elastic yarn means a yarn having an elongation of 100% or more at a 5 cN load and a recovery of 90% or more after 100% elongation.
  • the proportion of polyurethane yarns contained in the double knit can be increased without increasing the mass per unit area.
  • the double knit When heat setting is performed on the double knit, the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns contact and deform, and in that state, they are appropriately fixed. Therefore, the double knit can maintain high stretchability. Furthermore, this double knit is resistant to deformation, disorientation, slackness, fray, run, curl and the like, and is excellent in durability. Therefore, even after cutting into a straight line, a curved line, or an arbitrary shape formed by a combination of a curved line and a straight line or the like, hemming which sews the cut portion can be omitted.
  • the first yarn comprises a composite yarn comprising a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn.
  • first knitting yarn synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol, etc. in addition to the composite yarn containing the first polyurethane yarn and inelastic yarn; regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon; cotton, hemp, wool, Natural fibers such as silk; and composite fibers thereof can also be used.
  • polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are preferred.
  • These yarns may be interwoven on the surface on which the first knitting yarn is disposed. In particular, when the same yarn as the yarn selected as the non-elastic yarn is used as a yarn other than such a composite yarn, the cost for manufacturing the fabric can be suppressed.
  • the composite yarn (the total of the first polyurethane yarn and the inelastic yarn) is occupied in the first knitting yarn in that it is difficult to cause eye thinning and to obtain the same or higher stretching force as the conventional double knit.
  • the proportion is preferably 90% by mass or more.
  • the composite yarn comprises a first polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the first polyurethane yarn.
  • the form of the composite yarn is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include covering yarns, twining yarns, and entangled yarns (for example, air entangled yarns).
  • the composite yarn is preferably a covering yarn. Thereby, the elasticity of the first polyurethane yarn is easily exhibited.
  • the covering yarn may be a single covering yarn (SCY) in which an inelastic yarn is wound in a single layer around the first polyurethane yarn, or in a direction different from the inelastic yarn around the first polyurethane yarn. It may be a double covering yarn (DCY) wound around double.
  • SCY single covering yarn
  • DCY double covering yarn
  • a single covering yarn is preferable in that the double knit to be obtained tends to be thin and the air permeability of the double knit can be easily improved.
  • the twist number is preferably 100 to 1800 T / m.
  • the processing stability at the time of knitting the double knit is easily improved, and the rate of covering the first polyurethane yarn becomes high, so that it is difficult for eye swelling to occur.
  • the binding force with respect to a 1st polyurethane thread falls that it is 1800 T / m or less, and elasticity is hard to be impaired.
  • the entangled number is preferably 30 to 150 / m. If the number of interlacing is 30 pieces / m or more, the processing stability at the time of knitting is high, and if it is 150 pieces / m or less, the rate at which the first polyurethane yarn is coated is not too high, and the first polyurethane The threads are easily fixed to one another.
  • the ratio by which the first polyurethane yarn is drawn out is preferably 1.8 to 3.8.
  • the draft ratio is 1.8 or more, it is suppressed that the fineness of the composite yarn becomes too large or the yarn length becomes too short.
  • the draft ratio is 3.8 or less, no fuzz or thread breakage occurs, and it is easy to suppress troubles during knitting of double knit and other processing.
  • the fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 19 to 112 dtex, and more preferably 34 to 67 dtex.
  • the fineness is 19 dtex or more, the yarn breakage in the case of heat setting of the double knit including the first knitting yarn and the second knitting yarn is easily suppressed, and the elongation recovery property of the double knit and the reduction of the stretching force hardly occur.
  • the fineness is 112 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and in addition, the stretchability of the double knit is suppressed from being excessive.
  • the fineness of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56 dtex, and more preferably 15 to 44 dtex.
  • the fineness is 11 dtex or more, the thread breakage in the case of heat setting of the double knit including the first knitting yarn and the second knitting yarn is easily suppressed, and it is difficult to cause the elongation recovery of the double knit and the reduction of the stretching force.
  • the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and the stretchability of the double knit is suppressed from being excessive.
  • the thermal deformation onset temperature of the first polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ° C.
  • the first polyurethane yarns are in contact with each other and easily deformed.
  • the deformed first polyurethane yarns can be appropriately fixed without being completely fixed.
  • the thermal deformation start temperature of the polyurethane yarn is measured, for example, as follows.
  • Thermal deformation start temperature It can be measured using a thermal stress tester (for example, KE-2S manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.). Attach a jig with hooks to the top and bottom of the tester, and wind a polyurethane yarn to be measured between the top and bottom hooks 10 times (casing). With an initial load of 20 cN applied to the spiral wound polyurethane yarn, the periphery of the polyurethane yarn is heated at 2.2 ° C./sec, and the temperature at which the load applied to the spiral wound polyurethane yarn becomes 20 cN again is measured. This measurement is performed twice, and the average value of the two measurements is taken as the thermal deformation start temperature.
  • a thermal stress tester for example, KE-2S manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.
  • the first polyurethane yarn may be used alone, or two or more polyurethane yarns may be used in combination.
  • the non-elastic yarn contained in the first knitting yarn is, for example, a fiber having a smaller elastic modulus than the first polyurethane yarn.
  • synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic and polyvinyl alcohol; regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon; natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool and silk; and composite fibers thereof are used.
  • polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are preferred.
  • the inelastic yarns may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • the non-elastic yarn preferably contains polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fiber. Even if heat setting is performed at a high temperature (for example, 195 to 205 ° C.) after applying the treatment liquid containing a sulfonate, the embrittlement of the yarn such as yellowing is easily suppressed.
  • the fineness of the inelastic yarn is preferably such that the ratio of the fineness ratio of the first polyurethane yarn to the inelastic yarn: inelastic yarn / first polyurethane yarn satisfies 0.3 to 3.
  • the above-mentioned fineness ratio is 0.3 or more, it is difficult to cause eye wrinkling, and the appearance and texture of the double knit are improved.
  • the above-mentioned fineness ratio is 3 or less, the generation of a run is easily suppressed.
  • the fineness of the inelastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56 dtex, and more preferably 15 to 44 dtex. If the fineness is 8 dtex or more, it is difficult to break the yarn, and it is easy to suppress the exposure ratio of the first polyurethane yarn on the surface of the composite yarn from becoming excessive. When the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the elasticity of the first polyurethane yarn is easily exhibited, and the elasticity of the entire composite yarn is improved. In addition, it is suppressed that the exposure ratio of the first polyurethane yarn becomes excessively small, and the run preventing effect is easily obtained.
  • the second knitting yarn comprises a second polyurethane yarn.
  • the second knitting yarn may include, in addition to the second polyurethane yarn, a yarn exemplified as a yarn other than the composite yarn in the first knitting yarn.
  • the ratio of the second polyurethane yarn in the second knitting yarn is 90% by mass or more in that it is difficult to cause eye wrinkling and to easily obtain the same or higher stretching force as the conventional double knit. Is preferred.
  • the fineness of the second polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56 dtex, and more preferably 17 to 44 dtex.
  • the fineness is 11 dtex or more, the thread breakage in the case of heat setting of the double knit including the first knitting yarn and the second knitting yarn is easily suppressed, and it is difficult to cause the elongation recovery of the double knit and the reduction of the stretching force.
  • the fineness is 56 dtex or less, the braidability is easily improved, and the stretchability of the double knit is suppressed from being excessive.
  • the thermal deformation start temperature of the second polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ° C.
  • the double knit of this embodiment is a double knit in which the first knitting yarn is disposed on both surfaces of the double knit, and the second knitting yarn is disposed inside the double knit, for plating.
  • Fineness ratio of composite yarn to second polyurethane yarn contained in double knit The second polyurethane yarn / composite yarn is preferably 0.3 to 3 and more preferably 0.5 to 2 .
  • the above-mentioned fineness ratio is less than 0.3, eye thinning tends to occur, and the appearance and texture of the double knit may be lowered.
  • the above-mentioned fineness ratio is larger than 3, it becomes difficult to suppress the occurrence of a run.
  • the mass ratio of the inelastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn in the entire double knit are 0.75 to 4 Is preferable, and 1 to 3 is more preferable.
  • the mass ratio is less than 0.75, eye thinning tends to occur, and the appearance and texture of the double knit are impaired.
  • the mass ratio is larger than 4, it is difficult to suppress the occurrence of a run.
  • the thickness of the double knit is preferably 380 to 600 ⁇ m. If thickness is the said range, the wearing feeling when using a double knit as clothing will be easy to improve.
  • the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 100 to 260 g / m 2 , and more preferably 120 to 200 g / m 2 .
  • the weight per unit area of the double knit is 100 g / m 2 or more, sufficient strength can be obtained.
  • the mass per unit area of the double knit is 260 g / m 2 or less, the wearing feeling when using the double knit as a garment is easily improved.
  • the product of the warp density and the weft density of the double knit is preferably 5000 / square inch or more.
  • Elongation at the time of wearing the clothes (knit) is generally 20 to 30%. Therefore, it is preferable that the double knit exhibits a sufficient tightening feeling (tightening force) at such an elongation. Furthermore, it is preferable that sufficient tightening feeling is obtained even when the elongation is lower (for example, when the elongation is 10 to 15%).
  • the double knit is stretched in the direction of the double knit at a tension speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min to an elongation of 80%, and then the process of recovering to the original state at a speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min is performed three times.
  • the power value P1 (30) obtained by dividing the sum of the stress ST1 (30) at the time of elongation to 30% elongation and the stress SR1 (30) at the time of contraction recovery to the elongation 30% is And preferably 70 to 180 cN. When the power value P1 (30) is in this range, a sufficient tightening feeling can be easily obtained from the double knit.
  • the power value P2 (30) obtained in the same manner as described above is 70 to 180 cN, except that the double knit is stretched in the longitudinal direction.
  • the power value P1 (30) in the latitudinal direction and the power value P2 (30) in the longitudinal direction may be collectively referred to as a power value P (30) .
  • stress ST1 (30) in the latitudinal direction and ST2 (30) in the warp direction are collectively referred to as stress ST (30)
  • stress SR1 (30) in the weft direction and SR2 (30) in the warp direction. It may be collectively called (30) .
  • the value obtained by dividing the power value P1 (30) by the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN ⁇ m 2 / g .
  • the above value is in this range, sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained even when the fabric is lightweight.
  • the stress SR 1 (15) at the time of contraction recovery to 15% is preferably 20 to 100 cN, and more preferably 25 to 50 cN. In this case, the double knit has a high contraction force even in the low elongation region.
  • the stress SR2 (15) measured in the same manner as the stress SR1 (15) in the warp direction of the double knit is preferably 10 to 100 cN, and is 25 to 50 cN. It is more preferable that The stress SR1 (15) and SR2 (15) may be generically referred to as stress SR (15) .
  • the power value P (15) is the point at which the stress ST (15) at the time of elongation to 15% at the third time of treatment and contraction recovery to the elongation of 15% It is calculated by dividing the sum of the stress SR (15) and the value of.
  • the power value P 1 (15) when the double knit is stretched and recovered in the latitudinal direction is preferably 38 to 80 cN. When the power value P1 (15) is in this range, sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained. Further, it is preferable that the power value P2 (15) when the double knit is stretched and recovered in the warp direction is 15 to 55 cN.
  • the stress ST (15) is a generic name of the stress ST1 (15) in the latitudinal direction and ST2 (15) in the longitudinal direction
  • the power value P (15) is the power value P1 (15) in the lateral direction
  • the value obtained by dividing the power value P1 (15) by the mass per unit area of the double knit is 0.2 to 0.5 cN ⁇ m 2 / g preferable.
  • the above value is in this range, sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained even when the fabric is lightweight.
  • the value obtained by dividing the stress SR1 (15) by the mass per unit area of the double knit is preferably 0.07 to 1 cN ⁇ m 2 / g .
  • the double knit can show sufficient tightening feeling while being lightweight.
  • the power value is measured, for example, as follows. Three test pieces each having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm are cut from the double knit in the weft direction and the warp direction. A test piece having a length of 16 cm in the latitudinal direction is used to obtain a power value in the latitudinal direction, and a test piece having a length of 16 cm in the longitudinal direction is used to obtain a power value in the longitudinal direction. If a test piece of such size can not be cut out from the double knit to be measured, a test piece of a smaller size may be used. However, since the measurement error becomes larger as the test piece becomes smaller, it is preferable to cut out, collect and measure a test piece which is as close to the above size as possible.
  • each stress is measured using a constant velocity elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, AG-500D manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation).
  • the length of the part where the test piece is held by the upper grip (hereinafter referred to as the upper grip length) is 2.5 cm
  • the length of the part where the test piece is held by the lower grip (Hereinafter referred to as lower grip length) is 3.5 cm
  • the distance between the upper grip and the lower grip hereinafter referred to as grip distance
  • the process of recovering to the original state at a speed of 300 ⁇ 20 mm / min is performed three times Stress ST (30) (or ST (15) ) at the time of elongation to 30% (or 15%) in elongation and stress SR (30 (30 ) at the time of contraction recovery to elongation 30% (or 15%) ) (Or SR (15) ) and measure.
  • the power value is determined by dividing the sum of the stress ST (30) (or ST (15) ) and the stress SR (30) (or SR (15) ) by two. Let the average value of three test pieces be the power value P (30) (or P (15) ).
  • the elongation (constant load elongation) of the double knit at the 14.7 N load in the warp direction and the weft direction is both 100% or more.
  • the constant load elongation is 100% or more, the wearing feeling of the clothes obtained from the double knit can be easily improved.
  • required based on constant load elongation is 90% or more.
  • the stretch recovery rate of the double knit is 90% or more, the feeling of wearing and the shape retention can be easily improved.
  • the constant load elongation and the elongation recovery rate of the double knit are measured, for example, by the following method.
  • the environment at the time of measurement is a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%.
  • Test recovery rate Three test pieces each having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm are cut from the double knit in the weft direction and the warp direction. A test piece having a length of 16 cm in the latitudinal direction is used for measuring the elongation recovery rate in the latitudinal direction, and a test piece having a length of 16 cm in the longitudinal direction is used for measuring the elongation recovery rate in the transversal direction. The elongation recovery rate is measured using a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). A tooth-shaped chuck jig is used for the test piece gripping portion of the tester.
  • the test piece is attached to the tester such that the upper grip length is 2.5 cm and the lower grip length is 3.5 cm, and the elongation is measured under the conditions of Table 1 according to the constant load elongation.
  • the elongation recovery curve is drawn by repeating the elongation recovery three times at a speed of 30 ⁇ 2 cm / min.
  • the set elongation and the residual elongation are read, and the recovery rate is calculated according to the following equation (1).
  • the double knit of this embodiment is appropriately knitted by weft knitting such as plain knitting, rubber knitting, pearl knitting, circular knitting, interlock knitting and the like.
  • the double knit is preferably knitted based on interlock knitting.
  • the double knit When heat-set, the double knit is preferably sulfonated in that yellowing or embrittlement of the inelastic yarn is suppressed.
  • the sulfonate treatment is performed by immersing the double knit in a treatment solution containing a sulfonate.
  • the treatment liquid containing a sulfonate is an aqueous solution containing a sulfonate, a non-volatile acid, a chelating agent and the like.
  • the sulfonate sodium benzenesulfonate or the like is used.
  • the non-volatile acid tartaric acid or the like is used.
  • Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or the like is used as a chelating agent.
  • the components of the treatment liquid and the concentrations thereof are appropriately adjusted according to the type of yarn contained in the double knit and the like.
  • an aqueous solution containing 4% by mass of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1% by mass of tartaric acid, and 0.1% by mass of EDTA can be used as the treatment liquid.
  • the treatment time, treatment temperature and the like of the sulfonate treatment are not particularly limited, and are appropriately determined depending on the kind of yarn contained in the double knit and the like.
  • the heat set of double knit is preferably heat set.
  • the first polyurethane yarns or the second polyurethane yarns are brought into contact with each other, and are appropriately fixed in a deformed state. This gives a double knit without run or curl.
  • the temperature condition of the heat setting may be appropriately set according to the type of yarn contained in the double knit.
  • the heat setting is preferably performed under the condition of 195 to 205 ° C.
  • the heat set may be a dry heat set or a wet heat set.
  • the double knit may be subjected to processing usually applied to a knitted fabric, such as scouring, dyeing, resin processing, raising, and silet processing, by a conventionally known method. Finally, a final set such as heat treatment is applied so that the finish density is at the design value.
  • Example 1 Preparation of composite yarn A covering yarn was prepared as a composite yarn. 22 dtex polyurethane yarn (first polyurethane yarn, made by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd., Lycra (registered trademark) T-127C, heat deformation start temperature 178 ° C.) as core yarn of covering yarn, 22 dtex / 7 f as sheath yarn Nylon filament yarn (inelastic yarn) was used. Using a covering machine, the core yarn was drawn at a draft ratio of 2.3, and the sheath yarn was wound around the core yarn with Z twist at a twist number of 300 T / m to obtain a single covering yarn (composite yarn). The fineness of the composite yarn was 28.6 dtex.
  • the final setting was performed by bringing the double knit into contact with a wet pad containing 0.6 mass% of the finishing resin parasilicon G-284 (made by Ohara Palladium Chemical Co., Ltd.) at 170 ° C. for 1 minute. .
  • the obtained double knit has a finishing density of 126 courses / inch, 55 wells / inch, and the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn is 2.3 throughout the double knit. It was nine.
  • the thickness of the double knit was 560 ⁇ m, and the mass W per unit area was 173 g / m 2 .
  • the average of the power values of the three test pieces is the power value P1 (30) (or P1 (15) ), and in the transverse direction the power value P2 (30) (or P2 (15 ) ) ).
  • a value obtained by dividing the obtained power values P1 (30) and P1 (15) by the mass W per unit area of the double knit, and SR1 (15) as a double knit was determined.
  • test pieces each having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut out from the obtained double knit in the weft direction and the warp direction.
  • a test piece having a length of 16 cm in the latitudinal direction was used to measure a constant load elongation in the latitudinal direction
  • a test piece having a length of 16 cm in the longitudinal direction was used to measure a constant load elongation in the transverse direction.
  • Test recovery rate Three test pieces each having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm were cut out from the obtained double knit in the weft direction and the warp direction. A test piece having a length of 16 cm in the latitudinal direction was used for measuring the elongation recovery rate in the latitudinal direction, and a test piece having a length of 16 cm in the warp direction was used for measuring the elongation recovery rate in the transversal direction. The elongation recovery rate was measured by a constant speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D). A tooth-shaped chuck jig was used for the test piece gripping portion of the tester.
  • the test piece was attached to the tester such that the upper grip length was 2.5 cm and the lower grip length was 3.5 cm, and the elongation was measured under the conditions of Table 1. Thereafter, elongation recovery was repeated three times at a rate of 30 ⁇ 2 cm / min to draw an elongation recovery curve. The set elongation and the residual elongation were read, and the recovery rate was calculated by equation (1).
  • SR1 (A feeling of tightening) The feeling of tightening was evaluated according to the following criteria from the value of the stress SR1 (15) in the latitudinal direction. Best: SR1 (15) is 25 to 50 cN Good: SR1 (15) is 20 cN or more and less than 25 cN, or more than 50 cN and 100 cN or less Defect: SR1 (15) is less than 20 cN, or more than 100 cN
  • SR2 is 25 to 50 cN Good: SR2 (15) is 10 or more and less than 25 cN, or more than 50 cN and 100 cN or less Defect: SR2 (15) is less than 10 cN or more than 100 cN
  • Example 2 The second polyurethane yarn is disposed on the inside of the fabric in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 22 dtex polyurethane yarn (second polyurethane yarn, thermal deformation start temperature 178 ° C.) is used as the second knitting yarn.
  • the double knit was made to be The double knit had a finished density of 134 courses / inch, 57 wells / inch, a thickness of 440 ⁇ m, and a mass W per unit area of 135 g / m 2 .
  • the mass ratio of the inelastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn in the entire double knit was 2.2. The results of evaluating the obtained double knit are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 3 Example 1 was repeated except that the composite yarn obtained in Example 1 was used as the first knitting yarn, and 22 dtex polyurethane yarn (the second polyurethane yarn, the thermal deformation start temperature 178 ° C.) was used as the second knitting yarn.
  • a double knit was made so that the second polyurethane yarn was placed inside the knitted fabric.
  • the double knit had a finishing density of 138 courses / inch, 57 wells / inch, a thickness of 410 ⁇ m, and a mass W per unit area of 179 g / m 2 .
  • the mass ratio of the inelastic yarn to the first polyurethane yarn and the second polyurethane yarn in the entire double knit was 1.1.
  • the results of evaluating the obtained double knit are shown in Table 2.
  • Comparative Example 1 A first knitting yarn comprising the composite yarn obtained in Example 1 and a 22 dtex / 7 f nylon filament yarn, and a 56 dtex / 48 f nylon filament yarn were used as the knitting yarn.
  • the first knitting yarn is simultaneously fed from the same feeder as the nylon filament yarn of 56 dtex / 48 f to the needles of the dial and cylinder both surfaces
  • the yarn was fed and braided by plating, and a double knit was produced with a smooth weave structure so that a 56 dtex / 48 f nylon filament yarn was placed inside the knit fabric.
  • the 22 dtex / 7 f nylon filament yarn was interwoven with the composite yarn obtained in Example 1 so as to be alternately arranged one by one.
  • the double knit had a finished density of 102 courses / inch, 56 wells / inch, a thickness of 570 ⁇ m, and a mass W per unit area of 250 g / m 2 .
  • the results of evaluating the obtained double knit are shown in Table 2.
  • Comparative Example 2 A 44 dtex polyurethane yarn and a 33 dtex / 34 f nylon filament yarn were used as knitting yarn. Using a double circular knitting machine (303.07 cm diameter, 40 gauge) manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Mfg. Co., Ltd., 44 dtex polyurethane yarn and 33 dtex / 34 f nylon filament yarn are simultaneously fed from the same feeder to the needles on the dial and cylinder both sides Then, a double knit was made with a smooth knit structure so that polyurethane yarn was placed inside the knit fabric by knitting and plating.
  • the double knit had a finished density of 112 courses / inch, 77 wells / inch, a thickness of 595 ⁇ m, and a mass W per unit area of 254 g / m 2 .
  • the results of evaluating the obtained double knit are shown in Table 2.
  • Comparative Example 3 In the same manner as in Comparative Example 2 except that nylon filament yarn of 22 dtex / 20 f is used instead of nylon filament yarn of 33 dtex / 34 f, yarn is simultaneously fed from the same feeder to needles on both sides of dial cylinder, and plating knitting is performed. A double knit was made with a smooth knitting structure so that polyurethane yarn was placed inside the knitted fabric. The double knit has a finished density of 120 courses / inch, 63 wells / inch, a thickness of 510 ⁇ m, and a mass W per unit area of 183 g / m 2 . The results of evaluating the obtained double knit are shown in Table 2.
  • the double knit of the present invention is a double knit in which the mass and thickness per unit area of the double knit can be reduced while hardly causing eye wrinkling and having the same or higher stretching power as the conventional double knit. Therefore, it is suitably used as a cloth of a garment excellent in wearability and durability.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tricot double dans lequel un premier fil à tricoter et un second fil à tricoter sont tricotés par vanisage, le premier fil à tricoter comprenant un fil composite comprenant un premier fil de polyuréthane, et un fil non élastique autre que le premier fil de polyuréthane ; et le second fil à tricoter comprenant un second fil de polyuréthane.
PCT/JP2018/028007 2017-09-01 2018-07-26 Tricot double WO2019044293A1 (fr)

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JP2017168828A JP7050441B2 (ja) 2017-09-01 2017-09-01 ダブルニット
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JP7379623B1 (ja) 2022-09-07 2023-11-14 株式会社ノリタケ ダブルニット編地およびダブルニット編地を生産する方法

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JP2012077397A (ja) * 2010-09-30 2012-04-19 Gunze Ltd 芯鞘コンジュゲート繊維を含む編地および衣類
JP2013060696A (ja) * 2012-11-05 2013-04-04 Gunze Ltd 高機能衣類
JP2014091897A (ja) * 2012-11-07 2014-05-19 Gunze Ltd 下半身用衣類

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KR102290139B1 (ko) * 2013-10-14 2021-08-19 인비스타 테크놀러지스 에스.에이 알.엘. 다중 탄성 실을 갖는 신축성 서큘러 니트 패브릭
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JP2008038262A (ja) * 2006-08-01 2008-02-21 Gunze Ltd 衣類
WO2009011440A1 (fr) * 2007-07-13 2009-01-22 Seiren Co., Ltd. Tricot double excellent en termes de prévention de maillé filée ou de roulage et procédé de traitement
JP2012077397A (ja) * 2010-09-30 2012-04-19 Gunze Ltd 芯鞘コンジュゲート繊維を含む編地および衣類
JP2013060696A (ja) * 2012-11-05 2013-04-04 Gunze Ltd 高機能衣類
JP2014091897A (ja) * 2012-11-07 2014-05-19 Gunze Ltd 下半身用衣類

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP7379623B1 (ja) 2022-09-07 2023-11-14 株式会社ノリタケ ダブルニット編地およびダブルニット編地を生産する方法

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CN111051588B (zh) 2022-03-15
TWI772482B (zh) 2022-08-01

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