WO2017054324A1 - 高支天丝面料的加工方法 - Google Patents

高支天丝面料的加工方法 Download PDF

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WO2017054324A1
WO2017054324A1 PCT/CN2015/097306 CN2015097306W WO2017054324A1 WO 2017054324 A1 WO2017054324 A1 WO 2017054324A1 CN 2015097306 W CN2015097306 W CN 2015097306W WO 2017054324 A1 WO2017054324 A1 WO 2017054324A1
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strength
tencel
sizing
starch
processing
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PCT/CN2015/097306
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English (en)
French (fr)
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史成波
陈红霞
陆鹏
丁可敬
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江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2017054324A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017054324A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile production, and particularly relates to a processing method of a high-strength Tencel fabric.
  • Tencel is being used more and more, because the Tencel is not only elegant in gloss, lubricated in hand, good in dimensional stability, and excellent in moisture absorption and air permeability. Due to the weather, the human body is more prone to sweating and lack of water during the summer, especially at night, so the Tencel is particularly suitable for use as a summer product. In particular, 40s Tencel products have been widely recognized as the mainstream of summer bedding products. In addition, 50s Tencel, 60s Tencel and other latitude and longitude are pure Tencel products.
  • the high-strength Tencel (80s ⁇ 120s) is a yarn with a higher yarn count in the Tencel yarn. The fabric of the high-strength Tencel on the market is rare.
  • the PVA slurry is used for sizing, and the advantage of the pulp film after sizing of the PVA slurry is utilized. Although the difficulty of sizing can be temporarily relieved, the PVA slurry is not easily degraded, and the subsequent dyeing and finishing process is affected. It will cause the desizing to be unclean, the anti-staining of the fabric, the formation of pulp spots, and the production of excessive waste water, resulting in environmental pollution, does not meet the mainstream trend of energy conservation and environmental protection, green ecology.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art and to provide a processing method for a high-strength Tencel fabric, which is energy-saving and environmentally friendly, and the obtained fabric is soft and smooth.
  • the processing method of the high-strength Tencel fabric comprises the following steps: a sizing process, a weaving process, a singeing process, a printing or dyeing process, and a water washing process, wherein the sizing process is composed of ordinary starch and modified starch. Mix the slurry.
  • the high-strength Tencel fabric uses a Tencel yarn yarn of 80 s to 120 s.
  • the ordinary starch is corn esterified starch
  • the modified starch is cassava modified starch
  • the mass ratio of ordinary starch to modified starch is 1:1 to 2.
  • the temperature of the high pressure boiling slurry during the sizing process is 100 ° C to 120 ° C
  • the simmering time is 10 min to 15 min
  • the volume of the cooked pulp is 780 L to 820 L
  • the sizing rate is 17% to 18%
  • the moisture regaining rate is 9% to 11%, using single dipping double pressure.
  • the grey fabric is woven on the air jet loom in the weaving process, and the speed of the loom is 440 rpm to 460 rpm.
  • a whole alginic acid paste is used for the chemical conversion in the printing or dyeing process.
  • the singeing level in the singeing process is not less than 4 grades.
  • At least 4 hot water washings and 1 cold water are used in the water washing step.
  • the invention has the significant advantages that: first, the warp and weft yarns are all woven with high-strength pure tencel yarn, and the whole starch slurry is sizing, the fabric is light and soft, delicate and silky, and the use experience is extremely comfortable. Secondly, when sizing, the whole starch slurry is used to replace the PVA slurry, the sizing effect is good, the efficiency of the looms is ensured, and the cost is not increased. Third, the mixed cloth is used as the grey cloth, and the film is more soluble. It makes the desizing more easy to retreat, reduces the amount of waste water and wastewater, meets the requirements of energy saving and emission reduction, and is more green and environmentally friendly, enabling consumers to experience truly healthy and comfortable bedding products.
  • Figure 1 is a diagram showing the texture of a fabric of Example 1, in which black is a tissue point and white is a weft tissue point.
  • the processing method of the high-strength Tencel fabric wherein the high-strength Tencel fabric warp yarn and the weft yarn are both made of high-strength Tencel yarn, which are interwoven according to the satin weave, and the processing method comprises the following steps: the sizing process, a weaving process, a singeing process, a printing or dyeing process, and a water washing process, wherein a mixed slurry of ordinary starch and modified starch is used in the sizing process.
  • the common starch is corn esterified starch
  • the modified starch is cassava modified starch
  • the common starch and modified starch are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 2.
  • Cassava modified starch has excellent serosity flexibility, its elongation is larger than ordinary starch slurry, overcomes the hard and brittle inferiority of ordinary starch slurry, and is closer to the firm and tough sizing characteristics of PVA.
  • the combination of ordinary corn starch and cassava modified starch can well compensate for the insufficient sizing performance of ordinary starch, greatly improve the film forming property and ductility of the starch mixed slurry, and is beneficial for later weaving.
  • the temperature of the high pressure cooking slurry is 100 ° C ⁇ 120 ° C
  • the sizing time is 10 min ⁇ 15 min
  • the sizing temperature and time are lower than the conventional PVA sizing process, more energy saving, fuel saving, water saving, energy saving row.
  • the volume of the cooked pulp is 780L to 820L, the sizing rate is 17% to 18%, and the moisture regain rate is 9% to 11%, and the single immersion double pressure is adopted.
  • the conventional PVA has a sizing rate of 16.8% and a moisture regain of 9.9%, which is lower than that of the mixed starch slurry.
  • the grey fabric is woven on an air jet loom, and the speed of the loom is 440 rpm to 460 rpm.
  • Alginate paste has good color yield to Tencel fiber, clear printing effect, good dyeing leveling, high color fastness, and does not affect fabric feel after printing or dyeing, and can keep high-strength Tencel soft and smooth. Characteristics.
  • the singeing level in the singeing process is not less than 4 grades.
  • the grey fabric is burnt and burnt, and the surface hairiness of the grey fabric is burned as much as possible. Because the high-strength Tencel fiber is fine, the singeing is not clean, which will lead to more hairiness on the surface of the fabric.
  • the sample cloth is subjected to external friction, the short fibers exposed on the surface of the fabric will be pulled out, causing the fabric to fluff.
  • this part of the fiber will entangle with each other to form the center of the pilling. Slowly, the cloth will produce many small balls, which will seriously affect the smoothness of the Tencel fabric.
  • the washing process is washed with at least 4 hot water and 1 cold water. It can guarantee sufficient water washing to remove the residual auxiliaries and slurry on the cloth surface.
  • the high-strength Tencel fabric warp and weft yarns are all selected from 80 pure tencels, and the fiber fineness is 0.9dtex.
  • the fabric structure is made of warp satin weave, the warp density is 200/inch, the weft density is 180/inch, and the warp and weft density are relatively large. Due to the tightness of the fabric, the warp of the warp is particularly strong during the weaving process. Severe, generally a large amount of PVA will be added to the slurry, otherwise the warp yarn will be broken due to insufficient toughness, which will increase the difficulty of weaving. Therefore, sizing and pre-treatment directly affect the effect of the subsequent process, affecting the feel of the fabric.
  • the processing steps are in order: warping ⁇ sizing ⁇ weaving ⁇ singeing ⁇ cold pretreatment ⁇ water washing ⁇ tentering white ⁇ printing ⁇ steaming ⁇ water washing ⁇ tenter softening ⁇ pre-shrinking ⁇ finished product inspection.
  • the warp yarn is sizing with a mixture of ordinary starch and modified starch.
  • the specific slurry formula 62.5kg corn esterified starch K5000, 62.5kg cassava modified starch T8010, 15kg liquid acrylic acid, 3kg wax sheet.
  • the temperature of high pressure cooking is maintained at 110 °C during pulping, the time of simmering is 10min ⁇ 15min, the volume of cooked pulp is 780L ⁇ 820L, the sizing rate is 17% ⁇ 18%, the moisture regain rate is 9% ⁇ 11%, and the single immersion double pressure process route is adopted. .
  • the weaving process grey fabric is woven on the imported air jet loom and interlaced according to the satin weave.
  • the speed of the weaving machine is 440 rpm to 460 rpm, and the looms efficiency is 90% to 92%.
  • the singeing process is two positive and two reverse, the fire mouth is even, the speed is 100m/min ⁇ 110m/min, and the singeing level is not less than 4th.
  • the amylase is fired, and the enzyme dosage is 8g/L ⁇ 10g/L, and stacked for 4h ⁇ 6h.
  • the pre-treatment process of cold reactor adopts 4g/L ⁇ 7g/L caustic soda, 6g/L ⁇ 9g/L hydrogen peroxide, 10g/L hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, 5g/L penetrant, 90% liquid volume, speed 55m/min, 2 dip 2 rolling: 2 upper 2 impregnation ⁇ 3 roll rolling ⁇ 2 up and 2 down impregnation ⁇ 2 roll rolling ⁇ A bracket rolling and falling cloth ⁇ stacking for 24 hours
  • the printing process uses reactive printing, whole seaweed paste printing paste.
  • the steaming step temperature was 100 ° C to 102 ° C, and the steaming time was 8 min.
  • the washing process is washed with 4 grids of hot water and 1 grid of cold water.
  • the tenter softening process adopts a smooth and soft setting process, the softener dosage is 20g/L to 40g/L, the vehicle speed is 30-50m/min, and the setting temperature is 130°C ⁇ 140°C.
  • Example 1 Comparative example 1 High pressure boiling temperature 110 ° C 120 ° C Stuffing time 10min ⁇ 15min ⁇ 25min Sizing rate 18% 16.8% Moisture regain 10.2% 9.9% Loom efficiency 92% 90% Finished softness 83.03 75.97 Finished slip 78.53 73.12
  • the softness and slip of the fabric were tested according to the AATCC Test Method 202-2012.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

一种高支天丝面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的如下工序：上浆工序、织造工序、烧毛工序、印花或染色工序、水洗工序，其中，所述上浆工序中采用普通淀粉和变性淀粉组成的混合浆料。该高支天丝面料经纬纱均采用高支纯天丝纱线进行织造，加工方法采用全淀粉浆料上浆，所得面料轻薄柔软，细腻丝滑，使用舒适体验极佳。

Description

高支天丝面料的加工方法 技术领域
本发明属于纺织生产技术领域，具体涉及高支天丝面料的加工方法。
背景技术
现有夏季床品中，天丝越来越多地被应用，这是因为天丝不仅光泽优雅、手感润滑，尺寸稳定性好，而且吸湿透气性能优良。由于天气原因，夏季特别是夜晚睡眠时，人体更易出汗，缺水，因此天丝特别适合作为夏季产品使用。特别是40s天丝产品作为夏季床品的主流，已经得到人们的普遍认可，除此之外市面上还有50s天丝、60s天丝等经纬向均为纯天丝的产品。高支天丝(80s～120s)在天丝纱线中属于较高纱支的纱线，市面上高支天丝的面料很少见，一方面是因为高支天丝的强力与断裂伸长率较低，另一方面又因为高支纱线较细，形成的面料密度较大，上机张力较大，整经织造时容易发生脆断。为解决这个问题，上浆都采用PVA浆料，利用PVA浆料上浆后浆膜强韧的优点，虽然可以暂时缓解上浆难度大等问题，但是PVA浆料不易降解，而且会影响后道染整加工，会造成退浆不净，对面料反沾污，形成浆斑，并且会产生过量废水，造成环境污染，不符合节能环保，绿色生态的主流趋势。
发明内容
本发明的目的是克服现有技术的不足而提供一种高支天丝面料的加工方法，该方法节能环保，所得面料手感柔软、滑爽。
高支天丝面料的加工方法，包括有依次进行的如下工序：上浆工序、织造工序、烧毛工序、印花或染色工序、水洗工序，其中，所述上浆工序中采用普通淀粉和变性淀粉组成的混合浆料。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，所述高支天丝面料采用的天丝纱线纱支为80s～120s。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，所述普通淀粉为玉米酯化淀粉，变性淀粉为木薯变性淀粉，普通淀粉和变性淀粉质量比为1∶1～2。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，上浆工序中调浆时高压煮浆的温度为100℃～120℃，闷浆时间为10min～15min，熟浆体积780L～820L，上浆率17％～18％，回潮率9％～11％，采用单浸双压。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，织造工序中坯布在喷气织机上织造，织机转速为440rpm～460rpm。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，印花或染色工序中采用全海藻酸糊料进行化料。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，烧毛工序中烧毛等级不小于4级。
作为上述发明的进一步改进，水洗工序中采用至少4格热水洗，1格冷水。
本发明与现有技术相比，其显著优点在于：第一，经纬纱均采用高支纯天丝纱线进行织造，采用全淀粉浆料上浆，面料轻薄柔软，细腻丝滑，使用舒适体验极佳；第二，织造时上浆采用全淀粉浆料取代PVA浆料，浆纱效果良好，保证织机效率，并且并没有增加成本；第三，坯布采用混合淀粉浆料，浆膜溶解性较好，使退浆更加容易退净，减少废气废水的用量，符合节能减排要求，更加绿色环保，使消费者体验到真正健康舒适的床品。
附图说明
图1是实施例1的织物组织图，其中黑色为经组织点，白色为纬组织点。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细说明。但本领域技术人员将会理解，下列实施例仅用于说明本发明，而不应视为限定本发明的范围。实施例中未注明具体技术或条件者，按照本领域内的文献所描述的技术或条件(例如参考赵涛编著的《染整工艺与原理》，中国纺织出版社，2009)或者按照产品说明书进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者，均为可以通过市购获得的常规产品。
高支天丝面料的加工方法，所述高支天丝面料经纱与纬纱均采用高支天丝纱线，按照缎纹组织交织而成，该加工方法包括有依次进行的如下工序：上浆工序、织造工序、烧毛工序、印花或染色工序、水洗工序，其中，所述上浆工序中采用普通淀粉和变性淀粉的混合浆料。
所述普通淀粉为玉米酯化淀粉，变性淀粉为木薯变性淀粉，普通淀粉和变性淀粉混合重量比为1∶1～2。
木薯变性淀粉有着优异的浆膜柔韧性，它的伸长率比普通淀粉浆料大，克服了普通淀粉浆料硬而脆的劣性，更加接近PVA坚而韧的上浆特性。采用普通玉米淀粉和木薯改性淀粉搭配使用，能很好地弥补普通淀粉上浆性能不足，极大地提升淀粉混合浆料的成膜性与延展性，有利于后期织造。
上浆工序中调浆时高压煮浆的温度为100℃～120℃，闷浆时间为10min～15min，上浆温度和时间均低于常规PVA上浆工艺，更加省电、省汽、省水，节能减排。
上浆工艺中，熟浆体积780L～820L，上浆率17％～18％，回潮率9％～11％，采用单浸双压。常规PVA上浆率16.8％，回潮率9.9％，比混合淀粉浆要低。
织造工序中坯布在喷气织机上织造，织机转速为440rpm～460rpm。
印花或染色工序中采用全海藻酸糊料进行化料。海藻酸糊料对天丝纤维给色量较好，印花效果清晰，染色匀染性较好，色牢度较高，并且印花或染色后不影响织物手感，可以保留高支天丝柔软滑爽的特性。
烧毛工序中烧毛等级不小于4级。坯布采用重烧透烧，尽量将坯布表面毛羽烧干净。因为高支天丝纤维较细，烧毛不净会导致后期面料表面毛羽较多，当样布受到外界的摩擦时，露在面料表面的短纤维会被抽拔出来，使面料出现起毛现象，当面料继续受到摩擦时，这部分纤维会不断地相互缠结，形成起球的中心，慢慢地布面便产生很多小球，严重影响天丝面料滑爽的特性。
水洗工序采用至少4格热水洗，1格冷水洗。可以保证充分水洗，去除布面的残留助剂和浆料。
实施例1
高支天丝面料经纬纱均选用80支纯天丝，纤维细度为0.9dtex。织物组织选用经面缎纹组织，经向密度为200根/英寸，纬向密度为180根/英寸，经纬向密度均较大，由于面料紧度较大，在织造过程中经纱承受的摩擦特别剧烈，一般会在浆料中添加大量PVA，否则会因为浆膜的韧性不够，造成经纱大量断头，增加织造难度。因此上浆与前处理直接影响后道工序的效果，影响面料的手感。
加工工序按顺序依次为：整经→上浆→织造→烧毛→冷堆前处理→水洗→拉幅加白→印花→蒸化→水洗→拉幅柔软→预缩→成品检验。
上浆工序，经纱上浆时采用普通淀粉和变性淀粉混合浆料，具体浆料配方：62.5kg玉米酯化淀粉K5000、62.5kg木薯变性淀粉T8010、15kg液体丙烯酸、3kg蜡片。调浆时高压煮浆温度保持在110℃，闷浆时间为10min～15min，熟浆体积780L～820L，上浆率17％～18％，回潮率9％～11％，采用单浸双压工艺路线。
织造工序坯布在进口喷气织机上织造而成，按照缎纹组织进行交织，织机转速为440rpm～460rpm，织机效率达到90％～92％。
烧毛工序两正两反，火口均匀，车速100m/min～110m/min，烧毛等级不小于4级。轧淀粉酶灭火，酶用量为8g/L～10g/L，堆置4h～6h。
冷堆前处理工序采用4g/L～7g/L烧碱、6g/L～9g/L双氧水、10g/L双氧水稳定剂、5g/L渗透剂，带液量90％，车速55m/min，2浸2轧：2上2下浸渍→3辊轧车→2上2下浸渍→2辊轧车→A支架打卷落布→堆置24小时
印花工序采用活性印花，全海藻浆料印花糊。
蒸化工序温度100℃～102℃，蒸化时间8min。
水洗工序采用4格热水洗，1格冷水洗。
拉幅柔软工序采用平滑柔软定型工艺，柔软剂用量20g/L～40g/L，车速30～50m/min，定型温度130℃～140℃。
对比例1
本实施例与实施例1的区别在于：上浆工序采用PVA上浆。
  实施例1 对比例1
高压煮浆温度 110℃ 120℃
闷浆时间 10min～15min ≥25min
上浆率 18％ 16.8％
回潮率 10.2％ 9.9％
织机效率 92％ 90％
成品柔软度 83.03 75.97
成品滑爽度 78.53 73.12
按照AATCC手感测试标准(AATCC Test Method 202-2012)测试织物的柔软度与滑爽度。
由上表可以看出，采用PVA上浆需要更高的煮浆温度和闷浆时间，相对耗电，耗汽，耗时，不符合国家节能降耗政策。且采用淀粉上浆可以提高浆纱上浆率和回潮率，由于水分子的“增塑”作用，改善浆纱柔韧性，降低浆斑等疵点，有利于织机效率的提升。实施例1获得的成品手感经AATCC手感测试标准测试后，柔软度和滑爽度明显优于对比例1。

Claims (8)

  1. 高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：包括有依次进行的如下工序：上浆工序、织造工序、烧毛工序、印花或染色工序、水洗工序，其中，所述上浆工序中采用普通淀粉和变性淀粉组成的混合浆料。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述高支天丝面料采用的天丝纱线纱支为80s～120s。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述普通淀粉为玉米酯化淀粉，变性淀粉为木薯变性淀粉，普通淀粉和变性淀粉质量比为1∶1～2。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：上浆工序中调浆时高压煮浆的温度为100℃～120℃，闷浆时间为10min～15min，熟浆体积780L～820L，上浆率17％～18％，回潮率9％～11％，采用单浸双压。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：织造工序中坯布在喷气织机上织造，织机转速为440rpm～460rpm。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：印花或染色工序中采用全海藻酸糊料进行化料。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：烧毛工序中烧毛等级不小于4级。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的高支天丝面料的加工方法，其特征在于：水洗工序中采用至少4格热水洗，1格冷水。
PCT/CN2015/097306 2015-09-29 2015-12-14 高支天丝面料的加工方法 WO2017054324A1 (zh)

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