CN110318266B - 一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料 - Google Patents

一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料 Download PDF

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CN110318266B
CN110318266B CN201910607292.8A CN201910607292A CN110318266B CN 110318266 B CN110318266 B CN 110318266B CN 201910607292 A CN201910607292 A CN 201910607292A CN 110318266 B CN110318266 B CN 110318266B
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孙德荣
孙德明
陆浩祥
张堂标
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Xuzhou Rongsheng Textile Finishing Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
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    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法，所述的化纤棉质仿记忆面料由经纱经整浆并后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱为65D~177D/96~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述纬纱为50~150D/36~72F全消光SPH涤纶高弹丝，所述的经纱上机密度为36~54n/cm，所述的纬纱上机密度为24.5~43n/cm，采用4~16片综的喷水织机，按照平纹、2/2斜纹、复合斜纹组织进行织造。本发明制造流程短，成本低，成品吸湿快干、不易褪色且具有良好的折痕平复性。

Description

一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料及其制备方法，尤其涉及到一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法，属于纺织领域。
背景技术
现有普通的涤纶面料存在吸水性差的问题，且大都需要碱减量预处理，需要对处理液进行碱与PTA的回收或处理，流程长，能耗高，影响了服用性能与其成本，且普通的涤纶长丝面料一般光泽发亮，且手感欠缺毛感，不似棉面料有柔和的光泽与天然的毛茸舒适感，另一方面，棉面料又缺乏涤纶面料的良好尺寸稳定性、导湿快干、不易掉色、抗皱易打理的效果。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的不足，而提供一种毛羽感强，制造流程短，成本低，成品吸湿快干、不易褪色且具有良好的折痕平复性的化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法。
为解决以上技术问题，本发明采取如下技术方案：
一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法，所述的化纤棉质仿记忆面料由经纱经整浆并后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱为65D~177D/96~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述纬纱为50~150D/36-72F全消光SPH涤纶高弹丝，所述的经纱上机密度为36~54n/cm，所述的纬纱上机密度为24.5~43n/cm，采用4~16片综的喷水织机，按照平纹、2/2斜纹、复合斜纹组织进行织造；所述的整浆并采用环保浆料，浆液浓度8%，浆槽温度48℃，浸浆辊压力0.32N，浆车速度120m/min；采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5~6；进行所述的染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散染料、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.2~0.8%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散剂、其余为水。
具体地，所述的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝分别由高、低收缩组分改性聚酯经变形加工工艺加工而成，低收缩组分与高收缩组分的比列为1.3:1~2.2:1之间，且低收缩组分的dpf<1，高收缩组分的dpf>1。
更具体地，所述的喷水织机织造采用平纹、2/2斜纹，或经浮长数不超过3的复合斜纹进行织造。
具体地，所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min，再于气流缸中松弛预缩及退浆处理，具体方法为：于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40~60min，之后以1.5℃/min降到60℃。
更具体地，所述的松弛预缩处理助剂配方为：7.5~10%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1~2%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.5~1%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1~2%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水。
优选地，所述的松弛预缩退浆处理助剂配方为：8%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1.5%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.8%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1.5%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水。
具体地，采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5~6。
更具体地，进行所述的染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散染料、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.2~0.8%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散剂，其余为水。
优选地，进行所述的染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2%（o.w.f）的分散染料、0.6%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.3%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的分散剂，其余为水。
具体地，所述的定型后整理的具体方法为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+6~+10，车速30m/min。
更具体地，所述的定型后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，0.5~1.5%亲水整理剂，其余为水。
优选地，所述的定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%亲水整理剂，其余为水。
由于以上技术方案的实施，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
本发明采用仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝为原料，其价格大大低于棉花，所选用的混纤原料且使得织物在染整后产生异收缩效应，高收缩的改性单纤组分作为芯层形成纤维的骨架结构，保证了织物的强度，低收缩的改性结构在纤维表层形成皮层与线圈状结构，保证了相比常规涤纶织物所特有的毛羽感与棉结感。而所述的混纤变形丝的蓬松结构与有利于水分通过毛细效应传导，增强其吸湿快干效果与对光线漫反射效应。而本发明的染整加工采用无液碱低温染色一步定型处理，流程快，效率高，保证了织物的强度。成品面料不但具有明显的立体蓬松质感，又具有吸湿排汗、着舒适、挺括、色牢度好不易掉色等优点。
附图说明
图1为实施例1的织物组织结构图。
图2为实施例2的织物组织结构图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明，但本发明不限于以下实施例。
实施例1
如图1所示，一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法，经纱为66D/120F 的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，纬丝为50D/36F 全消光SPH涤纶高弹丝。其包括依次进行的如下步骤：
(1)整浆并：采用添加1%平滑剂的环保浆料，浆液浓度8%，浆槽温度48℃，浸浆辊压力0.32N，浆车速度120m/min；
(2)喷水织机织造：采用4片综框的喷水织机，按如附图1所示的平纹组织进行织造，上机经纱密度为54n/cm，纬纱密度为43n/cm，门幅206cm，穿法3入；
(3)预缩精炼：先用平幅预缩机对坯布进行平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，具体方法为：于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40min，之后以1.5℃/min降到60℃。松弛预缩退浆处理助剂配方为：8%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1.5%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.8%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1.5%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水；
(4)采用高温高压气流染色机染色：采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6，染色温度为125℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5.5；
进行染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2%（o.w.f）的分散染料、0.6%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.3%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的分散剂，其余为水；
(5)定型后整理：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+10，车速30m/min。定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%亲水整理剂，其余为水。
成品门幅148cm，经纱密度75n/cm，纬纱密度50n/cm，平方米克重102gsm，水平折痕回复角260度，为轻薄而有骨感，表面毛羽感强，纬向弹性，吸湿快干效应强的轻薄棉质仿记忆风格面料。
实施例2
如图2所示，一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料及其制备方法，经纱为88D/120F 的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，纬丝为50D/36F 全消光SPH高弹丝。其包括依次进行的如下步骤：
(1)整浆并：采用添加1%平滑剂的环保浆料，浆液浓度8%，浆槽温度48℃，浸浆辊压力0.32N，浆车速度120m/min；
(2)喷水织机织造：采用6片综框的多臂喷水织机，按如附图2所示的1/1 1/3复合右斜组织进行织造，上机经纱密度为50n/cm，纬纱密度为43n/cm，门幅214cm，穿法4入；
(3)预缩精炼：先用平幅预缩机对坯布进行平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，具体方法为：于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40min，之后以1.5℃/min降到60℃。松弛预缩退浆处理助剂配方为：8.5%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1.5%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.8%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1.5%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水；
(4)采用高温高压气流染色机染色：采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6，染色温度为130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5.5；
进行染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.1%（o.w.f）的分散染料、0.6%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.3%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.3%（o.w.f）的分散剂，其余为水；
(6)定型后整理：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+8，车速30m/min。定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1 %亲水整理剂，其余为水。
成品门幅147.5cm，经纱密度72.5n/cm，纬纱密度51n/cm，平方米克重125gsm，水平折痕回复角268度，为轻薄而有骨感，表面毛羽感强，纹路清晰，纬向弹性，吸湿快干效应强的轻薄棉质仿记忆风格面料。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述，其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施，并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围，凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (4)

1.一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料，其特征在于，所述的化纤棉质仿记忆面料由经纱经整浆并后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到；
所述的经纱为65D~177D/96~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述纬纱为50~150D/36-72F全消光SPH涤纶高弹丝，所述的经纱上机密度为36~54n/cm，所述的纬纱上机密度为24.5~43n/cm，采用4~16片综的喷水织机，按照平纹、2/2斜纹、复合斜纹组织进行织造；
所述的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝分别由高、低收缩组分改性聚酯经变形加工工艺加工而成，低收缩组分与高收缩组分的比列为1.3:1~2.2:1之间，且低收缩组分的dpf<1，高收缩组分的dpf>1；
所述的整浆并采用环保浆料，浆液浓度8%，浆槽温度48℃，浸浆辊压力0.32N，浆车速度120m/min；
采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5~6；
进行所述的染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2%o.w.f的分散染料、0.6%o.w.f的冰醋酸、0.3%o.w.f的pH缓冲剂、0.3%o.w.f的匀染剂、0.3%o.w.f的分散剂，其余为水；
所述的喷水织机织造采用平纹、2/2斜纹，或经浮长数不超过3的复合斜纹进行织造；所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min，再于气流缸中松弛预缩及退浆处理，具体方法为：于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40~60min，之后以1.5℃/min降到60℃；
所述的定型后整理处理的具体方法为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+6~+10，车速30m/min，后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，0.5~1.5%亲水整理剂，其余为水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料，其特征在于，所述的松弛预缩及退浆处理的助剂配方为：7.5~10%o.w.f的纯碱、1~2%o.w.f的双氧水、0.5~1%o.w.f的去油灵、1~2%o.w.f的退浆剂，其余为水。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料，其特征在于，所述的松弛预缩及退浆处理的助剂配方为：8%o.w.f的纯碱、1.5%o.w.f的双氧水、0.8%o.w.f的去油灵、1.5%o.w.f的退浆剂，其余为水。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种化纤棉质仿记忆面料，其特征在于，所述的定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%亲水整理剂，其余为水。
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