CN111441125A - 一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN111441125A
CN111441125A CN202010310936.XA CN202010310936A CN111441125A CN 111441125 A CN111441125 A CN 111441125A CN 202010310936 A CN202010310936 A CN 202010310936A CN 111441125 A CN111441125 A CN 111441125A
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fine denier
warp
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陆浩祥
孙德荣
孙德明
张堂标
孙书鸿
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Xuzhou Rongshengda Textile Technology Stock Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
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    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J13/00Heating or cooling the yarn, thread, cord, rope, or the like, not specific to any one of the processes provided for in this subclass
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/50Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
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    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/73Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/76Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
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    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/854Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres containing modified or unmodified fibres, i.e. containing the same type of fibres having different characteristics, e.g. twisted and not-twisted fibres
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法,所述的面料由细旦涤纶长丝经络筒、倍捻、蒸丝定型、分条整经、造机后,使用喷水织机织造,再依次经预缩精炼、水洗复漂、染色、定型后整理制备得到,其特征在于,所述的细旦涤纶长丝由经、纬两种不同规格的纱线组成,经纱为40~60D/50~75F一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝加低捻使用,纬纱为50~80D/36~72F并列型双组分复合弹性涤纶长丝,所述的织造上机经纱密度为42~50n/cm,上机纬纱密度为28~35n/cm,采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机,按纵凸条组织进行织造。本面料仿罗纹的凸条经纱部分触感更加柔软,使得面料触觉及更像针织物,提升了仿针织的效果。

Description

一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料及其制备方法,尤其涉及到一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法,属于纺织领域。
背景技术
针织面料由纱线集圈而成,因为线圈的可变化性,针织物具有较大的弹性及透气性能。但是,相比机织物,针织物容易发生勾丝和散脱,而且对于印染加工要求较高,只能采取松式染整的方式,对张力要求较为严格。传统的机织仿梭织面料,主要是纬向采用弹性纤维,使得成品面料具有一定的延伸性,但是在针织物特有的罗纹外观、柔软的触觉感受及通透性能方面仍模仿不足。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的不足,而提供工艺简单,模仿针织罗纹效果强,触觉柔软舒适的一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法。
为解决以上技术问题,本发明采取如下技术方案:
一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料,由细旦涤纶长丝经络筒、倍捻、蒸丝定型、分条整经、造机后,使用喷水织机织造,再依次经预缩精炼、水洗复漂、染色、定型后整理制备得到,其特征在于,所述的细旦涤纶长丝由经、纬两种不同规格的纱线组成,经纱为40~60D/50~75F一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝加低捻使用,纬纱为50~80D/36~72F并列型双组分复合弹性涤纶长丝,所述的织造上机经纱密度为42~50n/cm,上机纬纱密度为28~35n/cm,采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机,按纵凸条组织进行织造,所述的水洗复漂采用投料时不加NaOH的方式。
具体地,所述的一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝由FDY与POY两种成分经网络交缠复合而成,且每束纤维中FDY纱线与POY的纤度相等,其单丝根数之比为1:2~2:3。
具体地,所述的倍捻工序采用中高速化纤倍捻机,纱线的捻度为500~800T/m,捻向为S捻或Z捻。
优选地,所述的加弹倍捻的倍捻捻度为800T/m,捻向为Z捻。
具体地,所述的蒸丝定型工序采用先冷水泡后,再使用饱和水蒸汽定型的方式,冷水温度为10~25℃,浸泡时间为30min,水蒸汽定型温度为80~90℃,定型时间为60~90min。
优选地,所述的蒸丝定型工序水蒸汽定型温度为85℃,定型时间为60min。
具体地,所述的分条整经工序,整经门幅为210~218cm,整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D,整经车速为180~220m/min。
具体地,所述的喷水织机织造,车速为560rpm,经纱张力控制在0.25~0.4cN/D之间。
具体地,所述的纵凸条组织起凸条效应部分的经纱浮长为3~5,其对应织物反面处的纬浮长为2n+1,n为起凸条效应的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数,取2~4,织物反面连续排列的每组纬浮长之间为2根平纹组织的纬纱,在起凸条效应的连续排列的每组经纱之间为一组2~4根平纹组织的经纱,平纹组织所占用的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数为2入或4入,布边为平纹组织,造机时采用2~4入。
优选地,所述的纵凸条组织,起凸条效应部分的经纱浮长为3,其对应织物反面处的纬浮长为7,起凸条效应的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数取3,织物反面连续排列的每组纬浮长之间为2根平纹组织的纬纱,在起凸条效应的连续排列的每组经纱之间为一组2根平纹组织的经纱,平纹组织所占用的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数为2入,布边为平纹组织,造机时采用3入。
具体地,所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为:先平幅精炼,温度区间为50~95℃,车速为30m/min,再于气流缸中松弛预缩,温度为130℃,保温30~40min;所述的松弛预缩溶液助剂配方为7.5~10%(o.w.f)的纯碱、1~2%(o.w.f)的双氧水、0.5~1%(o.w.f)的去油灵、1~2%(o.w.f)的退浆剂,其余为水。
具体地,所述的水洗复漂处理的具体方法为:于溢流喷射缸中进行,温度为100℃,保温20~30min,所述的水洗复漂处理助剂配方为15~20%(o.w.f)的纯碱、0.5~1%(o.w.f)的消泡剂,其余为水。
优选地,所述的水洗复漂处理助剂配方为15%(o.w.f)的纯碱、0.5%(o.w.f)的消泡剂,其余为水。
具体地,所述的染色处理的具体方法为:于溢流喷射缸中采用分散染料进行所述的染色,控制染色浴比为1:6~1:8,染色温度为130℃,保温时间为40~45min,pH为3.0~4.5。
具体地,所述的定型后整理处理的具体方法为:温度区间为150~165℃,超喂率为+1~+2,车速为30m/min,0.5~1.5%的绒感蓬松剂TF-408A,0.5~1.5%的非离子抗静电剂TK-DF,其余为水。
优选地,所述的定型后整理助剂配方为:1%的绒感蓬松剂TF-408A,1%的非离子抗静电剂TK-DF,其余为水。
由于以上技术方案的实施,本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点:
本发明采用了特定的纵凸条组织结构,因为纬丝原料在染整加工过程的收缩,使得经面起凸条效应的经浮长发生并拢。同时,因为染整处理后纬向原料的可延展性及拉伸回弹性,成品面料纬向可以拉伸回弹,不仅模仿了针织罗纹布横向的拉伸回弹性,还模仿了经面罗纹外观的拉伸回弹效果,增强了面料的通透性。同时,本发明在染整过程的预缩精炼、水洗复漂中采用无NaOH添加的方式,利用纯碱动态电离出的低浓度OH-对涤纶进行表层的轻微减量,且未使用预定型工序,一方面减轻了污水中碱处理的要求,另一方面使得较娇贵的细旦一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝中POY部分、并列型双组分复合弹性涤纶长丝中易水解组分的强力得到保护,增强了面料纬向的弹性。此外,本发明选用了特定成分组成的一步法异收缩混纤丝及织造之前特定的蒸丝定型的工艺,使得该原料在染整加工过程中产生较佳的异收缩效应,纤维的表层因形成POY成分的包覆圈层,结合较低的捻度,仿罗纹的凸条经纱部分触感更加柔软,使得面料触觉及更像针织物,提升了仿针织的效果。
附图说明
图1为实施例1的完整的织造上机图,图中A部分的经纱为模拟针织罗纹外观的起凸条效应的纱线,B部分的经纱为模仿针织罗纹之间的面料底层。
图2为实施例1的面料正面仿针织罗纹示意图。
图3为实施例1的面料反面示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明,但本发明不限于以下实施例。
如图1 、图2、图3、所示,一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法,经纱为40D/50F一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝,由20D/20F的FDY与20D/30F的POY经网络交缠复合而成,纬纱为50D/36F并列型双组分复合弹性涤纶长丝,其包括依次进行的如下步骤:
(1)倍捻:在络筒后,采用中高速化纤倍捻机进对经纱行倍捻加工,纱线的捻度为800T/m,捻向为Z捻。
(2)蒸丝定型:先冷水泡,温度为10~25℃,浸泡时间为30min,再使用饱和水蒸汽定型,水蒸汽定型温度为85℃,定型时间为60min。
(3)分条整经:整经门幅为214cm,整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D,整经车速为180m/min。
(4)喷水织机织造:在津田驹ZW408喷水织机上采用反织法进行织造,采用如附图1所示的上机规格,布边(图1未标出)采用平纹组织,各1cm宽,3入。其布身正面的效果如图2所示,布身反面的效果如图3所示。上机经纱密度为49.4n/cm,纬纱密度为35n/cm,车速为560rpm,经纱张力控制在0.25~0.4cN/D之间。
(5)预缩精炼:先用平幅预缩机对坯布进行平幅精炼,温度区间50~95℃,车速30m/min;再于溢流喷射缸中松弛预缩,温度130℃,保温30~40min。松弛预缩处理助剂配方为:8%(o.w.f)的纯碱、1.5%(o.w.f)的双氧水、0.75%(o.w.f)的去油灵、1.25%(o.w.f)的退浆剂,其余为水。
(6)水洗复漂:于溢流喷射缸中进行,温度为100℃,保温20~30min,所述的水洗复漂处理助剂配方为15%(o.w.f)的纯碱、0.5%(o.w.f)的消泡剂,其余为水。
(7)染色:于溢流喷射缸中采用分散染料进行所述的染色,控制染色浴比为1:6~1:8,染色温度为130℃,保温时间为30~40min,pH为3.0~4.5。
(8)定型后整理:温度区间160~165℃,超喂率+1,车速30m/min。定型后整理助剂配方:1%的绒感蓬松剂TF-408A,1%的非离子抗静电剂TK-DF,其余为水。
成品门幅130.5cm,经纱密度81n/cm,纬纱密度42n/cm,平方米克重70gsm,为拉伸回复效果与触觉软感达到较高仿针织罗纹效果的细旦涤纶面料。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述,其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施,并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围,凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (11)

1.一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料,由细旦涤纶长丝经络筒、倍捻、蒸丝定型、分条整经、造机后,使用喷水织机织造,再依次经预缩精炼、水洗复漂、染色、定型后整理制备得到,其特征在于,所述的细旦涤纶长丝由经、纬两种不同规格的纱线组成,经纱为40~60D/50~75F一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝加低捻使用,纬纱为50~80D/36~72F并列型双组分复合弹性涤纶长丝,所述的织造上机经纱密度为42~50n/cm,上机纬纱密度为28~35n/cm,采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机,按纵凸条组织进行织造。
2.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的一步法异收缩涤纶混纤丝由FDY与POY两种成分经网络交缠复合而成,且每束纤维中FDY纱线与POY的纤度相等,其单丝根数之比为1:2~2:3。
3.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的倍捻工序采用中高速化纤倍捻机,纱线的捻度为500~800T/m,捻向为S捻或Z捻。
4.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的蒸丝定型工序采用先冷水泡后,再使用饱和水蒸汽定型的方式,冷水温度为10~25℃,浸泡时间为30min,水蒸汽定型温度为80~90℃,定型时间为60~90min。
5.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的分条整经工序中整经门幅为210~218cm,整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D,整经车速为180~220m/min。
6.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的喷水织机织造车速为560rpm,经纱张力控制在0.25~0.4cN/D之间。
7.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的纵凸条组织,起凸条效应部分的经纱浮长为3~5,其对应织物反面处的纬浮长为2n+1,n为起凸条效应的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数,取2~4,织物反面连续排列的每组纬浮长之间为2根平纹组织的纬纱,在起凸条效应的连续排列的每组经纱之间为一组2~4根平纹组织的经纱,平纹组织所占用的经纱在造机时钢筘穿入数为2入或4入,布边为平纹组织,造机时采用2~4入。
8.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为先平幅精炼,温度区间为50~95℃,车速为30m/min,再于溢流喷射缸中松弛预缩,温度为130℃,保温30~40min,所述的松弛预缩处理助剂配方为7.5~10%(o.w.f)的纯碱、1~2%(o.w.f)的双氧水、0.5~1%(o.w.f)的去油灵、1~2%(o.w.f)的退浆剂,其余为水。
9.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的水洗复漂处理的具体方法为于溢流喷射缸中水洗复漂,温度为100℃,保温20~30min,所述的水洗复漂处理助剂配方为15~20%(o.w.f)的纯碱、0.5~1%(o.w.f)的消泡剂,其余为水。
10.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的染色处理的具体方法为于溢流喷射缸中采用分散染料进行所述的染色,控制染色浴比为1:6~1:8,染色温度为130℃,保温时间为30~40min,pH为3.0~4.5。
11.一种根据权利要求1所述的细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的定型后整理温度区间为150~165℃,超喂率为+1~+2,车速为30m/min,后整理助剂配方为0.5~1.5%的绒感蓬松剂TF-408A,0.5~1.5%的非离子抗静电剂TK-DF,其余为水。
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