CN110205735A - 一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN110205735A
CN110205735A CN201910607296.6A CN201910607296A CN110205735A CN 110205735 A CN110205735 A CN 110205735A CN 201910607296 A CN201910607296 A CN 201910607296A CN 110205735 A CN110205735 A CN 110205735A
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terylene
dyeing
denim fabric
preparation
tiltedly
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孙德荣
孙德明
陆浩祥
张堂标
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Xuzhou Rongsheng Textile Finishing Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/002—With diagonal warps or wefts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/41—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using basic dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Abstract

本发明公开了一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，所述的涤纶仿牛仔面料由经纱经加捻、分条整经，纬纱经加捻后，再依次经斜纹织造、预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱由175~300D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根而成，所述的纬纱为115~265D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根后，以Z捻捻向，包覆70D氨纶丝而成，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按照3/1斜、2/1斜或2/3加强斜等变化斜纹组织进行织造。本发明产品制造成本低，制造过程对环境危害小，成品不易褪色。

Description

一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种仿牛仔面料，尤其涉及一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
传统的牛仔布制造主要是通过棉纱染色之后上浆，经喷气织机织造得到，织造过程有色毛羽飞扬现象严重，危害挡车工人的身心健康，而且因为棉质牛仔面料色牢度低，成衣在使用时水洗掉色现象严重，影响消费者的使用。另外，传统牛仔布整个加工流程冗长复杂，生产成本较高，而且还会造成严重的污染问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的不足，而提供一种工艺简单，成本低，制造过程对环境危害小，成品不易褪色的仿牛仔面料制备方法。
为解决以上技术问题，本发明采取如下技术方案：
一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的涤纶仿牛仔面料由经纱经加捻、分条整经，纬纱经加捻后，再依次经斜纹织造、预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱由175~300D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根而成，所述的纬纱为115~265D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根后，以Z捻捻向，包覆70D氨纶丝而成，所述的加捻的具体方法是将所述的经纱与纬纱加5~8T/cm的捻度，捻向均为Z捻，所述的经纱上机密度为27~32根/cm，所述的纬纱上机密度为13~20根/cm，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按照3/1斜、2/1斜或2/3加强斜等变化斜纹组织进行织造。
本发明的优化方案中：所述的预缩精炼工艺是先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min，再于气流缸中松弛预缩，具体方法是于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40min，之后降到60℃。所述的染色是采用一浴法染色，染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为98~100℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为3.0~4.5。所述的定型后整理的工艺为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+6~+8，车速30m/min，后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，0.5~1.5%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
本发明的具体方案中：染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2~1%（o.w.f）的阳离子染料、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.2~0.8%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散剂、其余为水。
由于以上技术方案的实施，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
本发明采用亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝为原料，其价格大大低于棉花，且相比常规涤纶具有3倍及以上的回潮率。并且，本发明通过采取加捻、分条整经的织轴准备路线，去除传统牛仔面料的浆纱环节，进一步节约了成本。此外，因为本发明采用喷水织机织造，织造过程没有带色毛羽飞扬的情况，保证了挡车工人的身心健康与对环境友好，而本发明的染整加工采用无液碱常压沸染一步定型处理，流程快，效率高。成品面料不但具有明显的牛仔色织风格效果，又具有吸湿排汗、穿着舒适、耐磨、挺括、色牢度好不易掉色等优点。
附图说明
图1为一种涤纶仿牛仔面料织物的组织结构图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明，但本发明不限于以下实施例。
如图1所示，一种涤纶仿牛仔面料的制备方法，经纱由两根250D/288F 的亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝并网，纬纱由两根265D/144F的亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝并网，包覆70D氨纶，其中氨纶为被包覆。其包括依次进行的如下步骤：
(1)加捻：将经纱和纬纱以5T/cm加弱捻，加捻捻向为Z捻，线速度为30m/min；
(2)分条整经：整经张力0.15~0.35cN/D，整经车速200m/min；
(3)斜纹织造：采用津田驹ZW408喷水织机采用1/3斜纹组织进行织造，上机经纱密度为27n/cm，纬纱密度为13n/cm，门幅178cm，穿法2入；
(4)预缩精炼：先用平幅预缩机对坯布进行平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，具体方法为：于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40min，之后降到60℃。松弛预缩处理助剂配方为：8%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1.5%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.8%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1.5%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水；
(5)采用高温高压气流染色机染色：采用一浴法进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6，染色温度为100℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为4.5；
进行染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.32%（o.w.f）的阳离子染料、0.6%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.3%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.6%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.45%（o.w.f）的分散剂，其余为水；
(6)定型后整理：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+6~+8，车速30m/min。定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1 %非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水；
成品门幅148cm，经纱密度32n/cm，纬纱密度16n/cm，平方米克重440gsm（12.98oz/yd2），为纹路清晰，手感上乘的中型牛仔风格面料。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述，其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施，并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围，凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (5)

1.一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的涤纶仿牛仔面料由经纱经加捻、分条整经，纬纱经加捻后，再依次经斜纹织造、预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱由175~300D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根而成，所述的纬纱为115~265D/144~288F亲水易染涤纶混纤变形丝，双丝并网成一根后，以Z捻捻向，包覆70D氨纶丝而成，所述的加捻的具体方法是将所述的经纱与纬纱加5~8T/cm的捻度，捻向均为Z捻，所述的经纱上机密度为27~32根/cm，所述的纬纱上机密度为13~20根/cm，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按照3/1斜、2/1斜或2/3加强斜等变化斜纹组织进行织造。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的预缩精炼是先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min，再于气流缸中松弛预缩，具体方法是于40℃入浴，升温速度0.8℃/min，于70℃、85℃、90℃、100℃、110℃、120℃各保温10min，130℃保温40min，之后降到60℃。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的染色是采用一浴法染色，染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为98~100℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为3.0~4.5。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一浴法染色，其特征在于，所述的染色时的染色液的原料配方为：0.2~1%（o.w.f）的阳离子染料、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的冰醋酸、0.2~0.8%（o.w.f）的pH缓冲剂、0.4~1%（o.w.f）的匀染剂、0.2~1%（o.w.f）的分散剂、其余为水。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的定型后整理的工艺为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率+6~+8，车速30m/min，后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，0.5~1.5%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
CN201910607296.6A 2019-07-07 2019-07-07 一种涤纶仿牛仔面料及其制备方法 Pending CN110205735A (zh)

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CN110894678A (zh) * 2019-12-18 2020-03-20 福建省德奥针织科技有限公司 一种高尺寸稳定性针织面料的制备工艺
CN111441125A (zh) * 2020-04-20 2020-07-24 徐州荣盛达纤维制品科技有限公司 一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法

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CN107460600A (zh) * 2017-08-18 2017-12-12 佛山市捷邦纺织有限公司 一种薄型四面弹力机织牛仔面料及其织造工艺

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CN105862473A (zh) * 2015-01-22 2016-08-17 浙江智兴集团有限公司 一种裤料全涤布的染色工艺
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110894678A (zh) * 2019-12-18 2020-03-20 福建省德奥针织科技有限公司 一种高尺寸稳定性针织面料的制备工艺
CN111441125A (zh) * 2020-04-20 2020-07-24 徐州荣盛达纤维制品科技有限公司 一种细旦仿针织罗纹涤纶面料及其制备方法

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Application publication date: 20190906