CN104480610A - 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物及其加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物及其加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN104480610A
CN104480610A CN201410640150.9A CN201410640150A CN104480610A CN 104480610 A CN104480610 A CN 104480610A CN 201410640150 A CN201410640150 A CN 201410640150A CN 104480610 A CN104480610 A CN 104480610A
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
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    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/06Warp pile fabrics
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    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12Keratin fibres or silk
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
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    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
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    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
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    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

本发明公开了一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物及其加工工艺,其中含牛奶纤维的毛织物包括经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝按照重量比(10~15):(15~20):(20~35)的比例混纺而成,纬纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛按照重量比(10~15):(20~30):(15~40)的比例混纺而成,细旦化纤长丝的捻度为400~800捻/米,经纱和纬纱的细度分别为15dtex~30dtex、15~60dtex。本发明纺织而成的纤维面料,面料更加舒适,并且本发明方法简单,操作方便,染色效果更好。

Description

-种含牛奶纤维的毛织物及其加工工艺
技术领域
[0001] 本发明设及一种纺织技术领域,具体设及一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物及其加工工 乙。
背景技术
[0002] 牛奶纤维中含有10种对人体有益的氨基酸,并含有蛋白质天然保湿因子,因此能 起到营养肌肤,使肌肤柔润光滑。牛奶纤维具有蚕丝般的光泽,羊绒般的柔软手感;还具 有天然的吸湿性、导湿性,穿着滑爽、舒适此外,牛奶蛋白纤维及其长丝是高档的新型纤维 材料,它集天然的蛋白质纤维与化学纤维之优点于一身,具有亲肤、养肤、吸湿透气、手感柔 软、光泽明亮、外观华贵、物理机械性能优良、具有良好的可纺织性等特点。牛奶纤维中含有 10种对人体有益的氨基酸,并含有蛋白质天然保湿因子,因此能起到营养肌肤,使肌肤柔润 光滑。牛奶纤维具有蚕丝般的光泽,羊绒般的柔软手感;还具有天然的吸湿性、导湿性,穿着 滑爽、舒适。
[0003] 过去的家纺面料主要是W面料的耐用和外观去赢得消费者的购买欲望。随着人们 生活水平的不断提高,健康与时尚结合在一起是消费者所需要的。家纺行业普遍使用的棉 纤维具有较好的吸湿性,柔软贴身。同时也具有不透气、排湿慢、容易滋生细菌产生霉变等 缺点,已经不能满足人们追求健康、时尚、舒适的生活需求。目前牛奶纤维越来越多的与其 它纤维共同加工成衣服面料,一般多采用粗棉纺设备生产,产品的舒适度和柔软度等各种 性能不能满足人们更高的要求;另外,染色的再现性、染色的均匀程度、染色的牢度都不够 理想。
发明内容
[0004] 本发明主要解决的技术问题是提供一种牛奶纤维和蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦 化纤长丝、玉米纤维、羊毛共混纺织而成的纤维面料,能够使面料更加舒适;并且提供一种 方法简单,操作方便,染色效果更好的面料的加工方法。
[0005] 为解决上述技术问题,本发明采用的一个技术方案是:
[0006] 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物,经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝混纺而 成,绅纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛混纺而成,所述的蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长 丝按照重量比(10〜15) ; (15〜20) ; (20〜35)的比例进行混合,所述的牛奶纤维、玉米纤 维、羊毛按照重量比(10〜15) ; (20〜30) ; (15〜40)的比例进行混合,所述的经纱和绅纱 所述的细旦化纤长丝的抢度为400-800抢/米,所述的经纱和绅纱的细度分别为15化ex〜 30dtex、15 〜60dtex。
[0007] 上述一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物的加工工艺,包括臥下步骤:
[000引 (1)纺纱;按照比例对蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝进行混纺,对牛奶纤 维、玉米纤维、羊毛进行混纺,在整个设计过程中,牛奶蛋白纤维纱或牛奶蛋白纤维的长度 控制在36〜40mm ;分别织造成经纱和绅纱;
[0009] (2)对经纱和绅纱分别施加初抢抢度,抢度为300-1000抢/米。抢向为Z向或S 向;
[0010] (3)染色;采用毛用活性染料在50°C下进行前处理15〜20分钟,染色液加温至 80°C,达到80°C后,W 1〜2°C /min的速度升温染色,当染色温度升至85°C时,保温4〜 6min,W提高匀染程度,当染色温度达到100〜ll〇°C后,保温20〜30min ;然后W 1〜2°C / min的速度降温,再降至50°C,进行排液和染色后洗漆;
[0011] (4)织造;将织机的各个工艺参数进行设定,将织口板高度设定在4〜4. 5mm之 间;将开口角度控制在26〜28度范围内;将毛经和地经纱线的张力设计为48〜50kgf,将 车速设计为450〜500转/分;
[001引 妨退维;首先将布匹在0. 8-1.2G/L的退浆酶BF-7658中堆置30-40分钟,水 溶5-15°C的温度下,: 10的浴比,处理20-40分钟,经40-80°C热水洗漆,然后使用 10-15°C的清水冲洗20-30分钟,最后在烘干机内烘干,温度控制在70°C -90°C ;
[001引 做浸溃;浸溃的温度控制在25°C左右,时间为3-5小时,后用清水清洗20〜30 分钟;
[0014] (7)上浆;经轴退绕-上浆,温度为70°C -湿分绞-烘干,温度85°C -干分绞-卷 绕,张力为0. 27mpa,回潮;12. 6%,所用浆料为丙締酸类浆料。
[0015] 本发明的有益效果是:
[0016] 牛奶纤维和蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝、玉米纤维、羊毛共混纺织而成 的纤维面料,具有羊绒一般的手感一柔软、平滑,面料更加舒适。
[0017] 本发明面料不但吸湿透气性好,手感滑爽、柔软、保型性好,面料穿着舒适,彰显高 贵高雅,满足了人们追求健康、舒适、时尚生活的需求。
具体实施方式
[0018] 下面对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述,W使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被 本领域技术人员理解,从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
[0019] 实施例1
[0020] 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物,经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝混纺而 成,绅纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛混纺而成,所述的蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长 丝按照重量比10 ;15 ;20的比例进行混合,所述的牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛按照重量比10 : 20 ; 15的比例进行混合,所述的经纱和绅纱所述的细旦化纤长丝的抢度为400抢/米,所述 的经纱和绅纱的细度分别为15化ex、2(Mtex。
[0021] 上述含牛奶纤维的毛织物的加工工艺,包括W下步骤:
[0022] (1)纺纱;按照比例对蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝进行混纺,对牛奶纤 维、玉米纤维、羊毛进行混纺,在整个设计过程中,牛奶蛋白纤维纱或牛奶蛋白纤维的长度 控制在36〜40mm ;分别织造成经纱和绅纱;
[0023] (2)对经纱和绅纱分别施加初抢抢度,抢度为300-1000抢/米,抢向为Z向或S 向;
[0024] (3)染色;采用毛用活性染料在50°C下进行前处理15〜20分钟,染色液加温至 80°C,达到80°C后,W 1〜2°C /min的速度升温染色,当染色温度升至85°C时,保温4〜 6min,W提高匀染程度,当染色温度达到100〜ll〇°C后,保温20〜30min ;然后W 1〜2°C / min的速度降温,再降至50°C,进行排液和染色后洗漆;
[002引 (4)织造;将织机的各个工艺参数进行设定,将织口板高度设定在4〜4. 5mm之 间;将开口角度控制在26〜28度范围内;将毛经和地经纱线的张力设计为48〜50kgf,将 车速设计为450〜500转/分;
[0026] (5)退维;首先将布匹在0. 8-1.2G/L的退浆酶BF-7658中堆置30-40分钟,水 溶5-15°C的温度下,: 10的浴比,处理20-40分钟,经40-80°C热水洗漆,然后使用 10-15°C的清水冲洗20-30分钟,最后在烘干机内烘干,温度控制在70°C -90°C ;
[0027] 做浸溃;浸溃的温度控制在25°C左右,时间为3-5小时,后用清水清洗20〜30 分钟;
[002引 (7)上浆;经轴退绕-上浆,温度为70°C -湿分绞-烘干,温度85°C -干分绞-卷 绕,张力为0. 27mpa,回潮;12. 6%,所用浆料为丙締酸类浆料。
[0029] 实施例2
[0030] 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物,经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝混纺而 成,绅纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛混纺而成,所述的蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长 丝按照重量比15 ;20 ;35的比例进行混合,所述的牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛按照重量比15 : 30 ;20的比例进行混合,所述的经纱和绅纱所述的细旦化纤长丝的抢度为600抢/米,所述 的经纱和绅纱的细度分别为3(Mtex、3(Mtex。
[0031] 加工步骤同实施例1。
[0032] 实施例3
[0033] 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物,经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝混纺而 成,绅纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛混纺而成,所述的蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长 丝按照重量比13 ;18 ;30的比例进行混合,所述的牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛按照重量比14 : 25 ;40的比例进行混合,所述的经纱和绅纱所述的细旦化纤长丝的抢度为800抢/米,所述 的经纱和绅纱的细度分别为2(Mtex、4(Mtex。
[0034] 加工步骤同实施例1。
[0035] 对织物进行如下项目的检测,检测结果如表1。
[0036] 表1织物检测结果
[0037]
Figure CN104480610AD00051
[003引 W上所述仅为本发明的实施例,并非因此限制本发明的专利范围,凡是利用本发 明说明书内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换,或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领 域,均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。
Figure CN104480610AD00052

Claims (2)

1. 一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物,其特征在于,经纱由蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长 丝混纺而成,炜纱由牛奶纤维、玉米纤维、羊毛混纺而成,所述的蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细 旦化纤长丝按照重量比(10〜15) : (15〜20) : (20〜35)的比例进行混合,所述的牛奶纤 维、玉米纤维、羊毛按照重量比(10〜15) : (20〜30) : (15〜40)的比例进行混合,所述的 经纱和炜纱所述的细旦化纤长丝的捻度为400〜800捻/米,所述的经纱和炜纱的细度分 别为 15dtex 〜30dtex、15 〜60dtex。
2. 如权利要求1所述的一种含牛奶纤维的毛织物的加工工艺,其特征在于,包括以下 步骤: (1) 纺纱:按照比例对蚕丝纤维、聚乳酸纤维、细旦化纤长丝进行混纺,对牛奶纤维、玉 米纤维、羊毛进行混纺,在整个设计过程中,牛奶蛋白纤维纱或牛奶蛋白纤维的长度控制在 36〜40mm,分别织造成经纱和炜纱; (2) 对经纱和炜纱分别施加初捻捻度,捻度为300-1000捻/米,捻向为Z向或S向; (3) 染色:采用毛用活性染料在50°C下进行前处理15〜20分钟,染色液加温至80°C, 达到80°C后,以1〜2°C /min的速度升温染色,当染色温度升至85°C时,保温4〜6min,以 提高匀染程度,当染色温度达到100〜ll〇°C后,保温20〜30min ;然后以1〜2°C /min的 速度降温,再降至50°C,进行排液和染色后洗涤; (4) 织造:将织机的各个工艺参数进行设定,将织口板高度设定在4〜4. 5mm之间;将 开口角度控制在26〜28度范围内;将毛经和地经纱线的张力设计为48〜50kgf,将车速 设计为450〜500转/分; (5) 退维:首先将布匹在0. 8-1. 2G/L的退浆酶BF-7658中堆置30-40分钟,水溶5-15°C 的温度下,以1 : 10的浴比,处理20-40分钟,经40-80°C热水洗涤,然后使用10_15°C的清 水冲洗20-30分钟,最后在烘干机内烘干,温度控制在70°C -90°C ; (6) 浸渍:浸渍的温度控制在25°C左右,时间为3-5小时,后用清水清洗20〜30分钟; (7) 上浆:经轴退绕-上浆,温度为70°C -湿分绞-烘干,温度85°C -干分绞-卷绕, 张力为0. 27mpa,回潮:12. 6%,所用浆料为丙烯酸类浆料。
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