WO1996016212A1 - Etoffe tissee du type nubuck et procede pour la fabriquer - Google Patents
Etoffe tissee du type nubuck et procede pour la fabriquer Download PDFInfo
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- WO1996016212A1 WO1996016212A1 PCT/JP1995/002358 JP9502358W WO9616212A1 WO 1996016212 A1 WO1996016212 A1 WO 1996016212A1 JP 9502358 W JP9502358 W JP 9502358W WO 9616212 A1 WO9616212 A1 WO 9616212A1
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- Prior art keywords
- woven fabric
- fabric
- nubuck
- shrinkage
- component
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
- D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
- D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
- D03D15/33—Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
- D03D15/37—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
- D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8276—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyethers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/23907—Pile or nap type surface or component
- Y10T428/2395—Nap type surface
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
- Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
- Y10T428/2481—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
- Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
- Y10T428/24893—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including particulate material
- Y10T428/24901—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including particulate material including coloring matter
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
- Y10T442/2008—Fabric composed of a fiber or strand which is of specific structural definition
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/3146—Strand material is composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/3146—Strand material is composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
- Y10T442/3154—Sheath-core multicomponent strand material
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/3146—Strand material is composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
- Y10T442/3163—Islands-in-sea multicomponent strand material
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a nubuck-like fabric and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention provides a nubuck-like woven fabric having a homogeneous, excellent ground-tightness, and a soft feel and surface roughness, and a method for producing such a nubuck-like woven fabric without using a urethane resin. About the method.
- the urethane resin is used for imparting a tightness to the woven fabric. If the urethane resin is used, the texture of the fabric becomes extremely hard, and the dyed fabric has poor light fastness. There was a problem that dye transfer caused by ironing etc. and caused dye transfer.
- Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Heisei 5-44437 discloses a method of dividing into ultrafine fibers by division. After shrinking the surface area of a woven fabric composed of a composite polyester / polyamide conjugate fiber and a polyester multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 25% or more by 30% or more, a part of the conjugate fiber is removed. A method for forming an ultrafine multifilament by dissolution and removal is disclosed.
- Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 7-126951 discloses a different shrinkage mixed yarn of a split type composite multifilament yarn capable of forming an ultrafine fiber and a high shrinkage multifilament yarn having a large fineness.
- a method is disclosed in which a knitted fabric is formed and then heat-treated and divided to obtain a soft and dense woven fabric.
- the fibers adhere to each other due to heat shrinkage, and the penetration and circulation of the solution become insufficient, so that a large number of undivided conjugate fibers remain in the woven fabric, and the woven fabric has a sufficient feeling of ground tightness (that is, the woven fabric is composed of And the surface touch is hardened and stained spots occur.
- Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-145787 discloses that 5 to 50% by weight of polyester is dissolved and removed without shrinking a knitted woven fabric composed of polyester / polyamide conjugate fiber, and polyester and polyamide are dissolved. After creating a gap at the interface between the fibers, heat-shrink at 80 ° C or more, apply rubbing, and use the difference in the heat shrinkage between polyester and polyamide to split the conjugate fiber into a high-density knitted fabric. A manufacturing method is disclosed.
- the above method also dissolves only a part of the components of the composite fiber and forms two kinds of ultrafine fibers, so that there are few voids generated between the fibers.
- the problem is that the shrinkage rate is low at the time, and it is not possible to give a feeling of tightness comparable to the method of impregnating with a urethane resin.
- An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and to provide a nubuck-like woven fabric which is uniform, has an excellent feeling of ground tightness, and has a soft feel and surface touch.
- Another object of the present invention is to impregnate such a nubuck fabric with a urethane resin. It is to provide a method for manufacturing without using.
- the inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, are composed of a composite fiber comprising a component capable of forming an ultrafine polyester multifilament and an easily soluble component, and a high shrinkage multifilament. Dissolving the readily soluble component in the fabric of the two-layered yarn under conditions that do not substantially cause shrinkage of the fabric, and then shrinking the fabric in a spread state, the ultra-fine polyester multi-layer formed on the fabric surface It was clarified that the filaments were concentrated at a high density, and that a fabric with the feel of natural nubuck with an excellent feeling of tightness could be obtained.
- the ultrafine polyester multifilament having a single fiber fineness of 0.001 to 0.5 denier is mainly disposed in the sheath, and the ultrafine polyester multifilament is provided.
- a woven fabric containing a double-layered yarn in which a polyester multifilament having a larger single-fiber fineness is mainly disposed in a core portion and the woven fabric satisfies both requirements (1) and (2) at the same time.
- a nubuck-like fabric characterized by satisfaction is provided.
- the “apparent specific gravity” is defined by the following formula based on the weight per unit area W (g / m-) of the woven fabric and the thickness t (mm) of the woven fabric measured by the following method in accordance with JISL 1096-1990. Is a value calculated by
- W is the weight per unit area of the woven fabric, and three specimens of 20 cm x 20 cm are taken from the woven fabric, and each is in a standard state (20 ⁇ 2 ° (:, 65 ⁇ 2% RH) The weight (g) at the point is weighed, and the average value is expressed as the weight per 1 m '(W / g / m-').
- t is the thickness of the woven fabric, using a thickness measuring instrument, under the initial load of 7 gfc rn ⁇ for five places of the woven fabric in the standard state (20 ⁇ 2.C, 65 ⁇ 2% RH). It measures the thickness (mm) and expresses the average value.
- Shear stiffness G measured according to the shear test method is 0.2 to 1.5 gf Z cm * deg
- a splittable composite fiber and a no or sea-island type composite fiber comprising an easily soluble component and a component having a lower solubility and capable of forming an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- the woven fabric containing the two-layered yarn obtained by blending the multifilament of the above and a high shrinkage polyester multifilament having a higher heat shrinkage than the conjugate fiber is substantially not shrunk. After dissolving and removing easily soluble components in the splittable conjugate fiber and Z or the sea-island conjugate fiber contained in the woven fabric to form a flat ultrafine polyester multifilament, shrinking in a spread state.
- a method for producing a nubuck fabric is provided.
- FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing an example of a cross section of the nubuck-like woven fabric of the present invention.
- FIG. It is sectional drawing which shows an example of the cross section of a suede-like fabric typically.
- FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing an example of a split-type composite fiber.
- FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view schematically illustrating an example of a sea-island type composite fiber.
- the conjugate fiber used in the present invention is composed of an easily soluble component and a component having a lower solubility and capable of forming an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- One component A as shown in FIG. Divided component conjugate fiber having the cross-sectional shape of the other component B divided into a plurality of components and / or sea-island type composite fiber composed of the sea component C and the island component D as shown in FIG. At least one component of B and component D is polyester.
- the above splittable conjugate fiber dissolves and removes either component A or B (easily soluble component) to form ultrafine polyester multifilament consisting of the remaining component B or A. Can be.
- ultra-fine polyester multifilament consisting of island component D can be formed by dissolving and removing sea component C (easily soluble component). .
- the easily soluble components include nylon-6, polystyrene, polyester copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfisophthalic acid component, polyester containing polyoxyalkylene glycol, and dicarboxylic acid component and polyoxyalkylene glycol component.
- polyesters to which a polyether ester consisting of Examples of the ultrafine polyester multifilament forming component include a polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit and a polyester having a butylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.
- the combination of components A and B in the splittable conjugate fiber (Fig. 3) and the composition ratio thereof, or the combination of components C and D in the sea-island conjugate fiber (Fig. 4) and the composition ratio thereof are determined according to the desired fineness and fineness. What is necessary is just to set suitably according to the conditions of a dissolution process.
- Component A 50% by weight of a polyester containing a polyester ester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol was used as Component A (easily soluble component), and Component B was used.
- Component B 50% by weight of a polyester containing a polyester ester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol was used as Component A (easily soluble component), and Component B was used.
- Preferred examples of the (fine microfilament formation component) are splittable conjugate fibers using 50% by weight of a polyester mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units.
- the single-fiber fineness of the ultrafine polyester multifilament obtained by dissolving the easily soluble component of the conjugate fiber must be 0.001 to 0.5 denier, and preferably 0.00. 1 to 0.1 denier. If the single fiber fineness is larger than 0.5 denier, a sufficient feeling of ground tightness cannot be imparted, and a soft feeling and surface dust cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the single fiber fineness is less than 0.001 denier, the hand feel becomes too soft, so that the nubuck-like fabric cannot be properly stretched, the waist cannot be obtained, and the durability of the fabric decreases. . Furthermore, it is preferable that the cross section of the ultrafine polyester filament has a flat shape with a flatness of 8 to 15.
- flatness refers to the ratio of the maximum width to the maximum thickness in the filament cross section, the ratio of the major axis to the minor axis when the cross section is elliptical, and the vertical Z width when the cross section is rectangular. Is a value corresponding to the ratio of
- the above-mentioned flat filament is, for example, a cross-section of the above-mentioned splittable conjugate fiber, in which a component that is difficult to dissolve and remove (a component capable of forming an ultrafine polyester multifilament) has a large number of flat shapes.
- the composite fiber can be easily obtained by constituting the composite fiber as follows.
- a high-shrink polystyrene multi-filament having a higher heat shrinkage than the above-mentioned conjugate fiber is produced by a conventionally known method such as, for example, drawing an undrawn multi-filament yarn of polyester at a low temperature and low magnification.
- a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by copolymerizing a third component such as isophthalic acid with a polyester is preferable to use.
- the high-shrinkage polyester multifilament preferably shrinks the woven fabric sufficiently to give a firm feeling and a soft feeling.
- the boiling water shrinkage ratio is preferably about 20% or more. New However, if the boiling water shrinkage is too large, shrinkage spots are likely to occur, so it is preferable to limit the shrinkage to at most about 70%.
- the single fiber fineness of the high shrinkage polyester multifilament must be larger than the single fiber fineness of the ultrafine polyester multifilament, and a preferable range of the single fiber fineness is 1 to 5 deniers. A more preferred range is 2-4 denier.
- the woven fabric of the present invention must be composed of a two-layer structure yarn of an ultrafine polyester multifilament and a high shrinkage polyester multifilament, and the two-layer structure yarn is the splittable conjugate fiber and the Z or sea-island type yarn. After the multifilament of the conjugate fiber and the high shrinkage polyester multifilament are aligned and mixed by twisting, air entanglement or simultaneous drawing false twist, the readily soluble component of the conjugate fiber is dissolved. The yarn is produced.
- High shrinkage polyester multifilament when producing double layer yarn It is preferable to provide a feed difference or elongation difference between the two filaments so that the filaments are mainly arranged in the core and the multifilament of the composite fiber is mainly arranged in the sheath.
- the simultaneous drawing false twisting is performed. It is preferable because a two-layered yarn is obtained in which the deviation between the yarn and the sheath yarn hardly occurs.
- the woven fabric of the present invention is obtained by weaving the double-layer structured yarn produced as described above for the warp and Z or weft, and in this case, it is better to use the double-layer structured yarn for both the warp and the weft.
- a woven fabric can be obtained.
- the two-layer structure yarn of the polyester multifilament may be cross-woven with natural fibers, regenerated fibers or other synthetic fibers as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.
- weave structure There is no particular limitation on the weave structure, and any weave structure such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave can be used.
- the easily dissolvable components of the splittable conjugate fiber and the no or sea-island type conjugate fiber contained in the obtained woven fabric are dissolved and removed to form an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- any method such as a method of immersing the woven fabric in a solvent of an easily soluble component and a method of padding the solvent can be adopted.
- the “shrinkage starting temperature T s” of the woven fabric is defined as the shrinkage of the surface area of the woven fabric expressed by the following formula (I) when the free woven fabric is heated and shrunk at a heating rate of 2 ° CZ. The temperature at which the ratio S becomes 10% or more.
- (I) S ⁇ 1-(surface area of woven fabric after heating) surface area of woven fabric before heating ⁇ X 100
- the dissolution temperature exceeds the shrinkage initiation temperature Ts, the heat shrinkage of the woven fabric increases, resulting in insufficient permeation and circulation of the dissolution solution. Undissolved composite fibers may remain on the surface, and the surface touch may be hardened or spotting may occur.
- the type and concentration of the solvent used in the dissolution treatment may be appropriately selected according to the constituent components or the constituent ratio of the conjugate fiber.
- the dicarboxylic acid component is used as the component A (easily soluble component).
- a polyether containing a polyoxyalkylene glycol component and a polyester containing a polyoxyalkylene glycol are used, and the ethylene terephthalate unit is mainly used as component B (a component for forming an ultra-fine multifilament).
- component B a component for forming an ultra-fine multifilament
- an aqueous solution of 35 to 150 g / liter may be used.
- the amount of the easily dissolved component before dissolution is 5%. It is preferred to elute a readily soluble component in an amount exceeding 0% by weight, preferably exceeding 80%.
- a jigger-dyeing machine an open-solder, a boil-off machine, or the like so as to minimize the generation of processing shear.
- the woven fabric after the dissolution treatment has a surface area of 20% or more, preferably 35% or more.
- the above heat treatment is performed to shrink.
- shrinkage ratio refers to a value calculated by the above formula (I).
- the heat shrinkage treatment gives the woven fabric a feeling of ground tightness, and also functions to lower the orientation of the multifilaments constituting the double-layered yarn and to soften the texture of the woven fabric.
- the shrinkage is less than 20%, a fabric having an excellent feeling of tightness and having a soft feeling cannot be obtained.
- the heat treatment is necessary to contract in a spread state, that is, in a state in which the woven fabric is expanded, so as to prevent distortion such as a screen from occurring in the woven fabric being heated.
- the heat treatment is preferably performed during the steps of ordinary refining, relaxation, and presetting.
- a heat treatment apparatus such as an oven separator, a boil-off machine, and a bin tenter is preferably used. Can be used.
- a multi-tank type oven soper capable of gradually increasing the heating temperature and sequentially controlling the shrinkage ratio.
- the heating temperature and the heating time may be set as appropriate according to the desired shrinkage rate, but the temperature is set at the center of the shrinkage initiation temperature Ts of the woven fabric (Ts + 10 to Ts + 50 ° C).
- the range and time are preferably about 1 to 4 minutes.
- the fabric after the heat treatment is further subjected to a treatment such as buffing to make the surface fluffy and to make the surface touch softer.
- a treatment such as buffing to make the surface fluffy and to make the surface touch softer.
- the fabric is softened by self-stretching the multifilament constituting the double-layered yarn by applying kneading using a sakura dyeing machine or the like. I do not care.
- calendering may be performed to improve the uniformity of the fluff, or a small amount of resin may be applied to improve the tear strength of the ground structure.
- the nubuck-like woven fabric obtained as described above is polyester-based, even when the pattern is colored by the printing method, a high degree of growth and a coloration free of spotting can be obtained similarly to the counter-dyeing.
- the base material is simply
- the nubuck base fabric is composed of multiple components such as two components of polyester fiber and nylon fiber, or two components of polyester fiber and polyurethane resin, it is difficult to obtain high quality printed products. In particular, when using the discharge printing technology, there is a limit to the color of the printed material, which makes commercialization difficult.
- the nubuck-like woven fabric of the present invention obtained by the above method must satisfy the following characteristics (1) and (2) at the same time.
- the “apparent specific gravity” is calculated according to the following formula from the weight W per unit area of the woven fabric (gZm and the thickness t (mm) of the woven fabric) measured by the following method in accordance with JISL 1096-1990. Value.
- the “weight per unit area of the woven fabric” is obtained by taking three 20 cm x 20 cm test pieces from the woven fabric and using each of them under standard conditions (20 ⁇ 2.C, 65 ⁇ 2% RH). The weight (g) is weighed, and the average value is expressed in weight per 1 m '(W / g /-).
- the “thickness t of the fabric” is measured using a thickness measuring instrument under the initial load of 7 gf Z cm2 for five places of the fabric in the standard lying state (20 ⁇ 2 ° C, 65 ⁇ 2% RH). The thickness (mm) is measured and expressed as the average value.
- the apparent specific gravity B in (1) is an index indicating the sense of tightness of the fabric, and the value of B is large. Indeed, it shows that the fabric has a good sense of ground tightness.
- the apparent specific gravity B is smaller than 0.35, the feeling of tightness of the fabric is insufficient.
- the apparent specific gravity B is too large, the surface touch of the woven fabric becomes hard, so it is preferable to keep the specific gravity at about 0.7 cm 3 Zg at most.
- the preferred range of apparent specific gravity is 0.4 to 0.6, and the more preferred range is 0.4 to 0.5.
- the shear stiffness G of (2) is an index indicating the softness of the woven fabric. A smaller value of G indicates that the woven fabric is softer and more flexible.
- the woven fabric is hard and does not have a soft hand. However, if the shear stiffness G is too small, it will show a rubber-like feeling with no tension. Therefore, it is preferable to keep the shear stiffness to about 0.2 gf / cm'deg at most.
- the preferred range of the shear stiffness is 0.4 to 0.9, and the more preferred range is 0.5 to 0.7 gfZcmdeg.
- the multifilament of the split type composite fiber which can form an ultrafine polyester multifilament, and a no or sea-island type composite fiber, and the heat more than this composite fiber
- the composite knitting is performed prior to shrinking the woven fabric in which the two-layer structure yarn composed of the high shrinkage polyester multifilament having a large shrinkage is arranged on the warp and Z or weft. Dissolves and removes easily soluble components of fibers, increasing the number of voids in the two-layered yarn that composes the fabric, and when the fabric shrinks, the filaments are tightly bundled, and the fabric is tightly closed. A feeling can be given.
- the ultrafine polyester multifilament is disposed on the sheath portion of the two-layer structure yarn, when the woven fabric shrinks, the ultrafine polyester multifilament is disposed on the woven fabric surface layer portion. In this case, the surface is tightly focused and a soft surface latch is obtained. In addition, the shrinkage of the woven fabric lowers the orientation of the multifilament constituting the two-layered yarn, so that the filament has a soft feel even though the filaments are tightly converged. Can be.
- FIG. 1 schematically shows an example of a cross section of the nubuck-like woven fabric of the present invention.
- the flat ultra-fine polyester multifilament 1 and the inner layer of the woven fabric are used.
- the part has a structure in which the polyester multifilament 2 having a single fiber fineness larger than that of the flat ultra-fine polyester multifilament 1 is densely bundled, so that the fabric has an excellent feeling of ground tightness. Soft surface finish can be applied.
- FIG. 2 shows a conventional suede cloth obtained by shrinking a woven fabric before dissolving and removing a part of a conjugate fiber, as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 5-44413.
- This figure shows a cross section of the fabric, and this fabric is undivided or incompletely compared with a polyester multifilament 3 having a relatively high single-fiber weave degree and an ultrafine multifilament 4 generated by division. It consists of split conjugate fibers 5 and does not converge the constituent fibers, so the apparent specific gravity is low.On the other hand, many unsplit fibers remain, so the shear rigidity increases and, when dyed, spots are stained. Is easy to occur
- W is the weight per unit area of the woven fabric, and three test pieces of 20 cm x 20 cm are taken from the woven fabric and in each standard condition (20 ⁇ 2.C, 65 ⁇ 2% RH) The weight (g) is weighed, and the average value is expressed as weight W (g / m ⁇ ) per m2.
- t is the thickness of the woven fabric, using a thickness measuring instrument, the initial load of 7 gf Z cm ⁇ at 5 places of the woven fabric in the standard condition (20 ⁇ 2.C, 65 ⁇ 2% RH) The thickness (mm) is measured below and the average value is shown.
- the shear stiffness G was determined from the shear characteristic diagram of the woven fabric.
- Boiling water shrinkage ⁇ (L0-L1) / L0 ⁇ X100
- Isophthalic acid was copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64, and spun at a spinning speed of 3600 m / min., And a 50-denier Z12 filament polyester intermediate oriented multifilament yarn (stretched) Degree 1 30%).
- a polyether ester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component is 4% by weight and a polyalkylene having an average molecular weight of 20,000.
- polyethylene terephthalate intrinsic viscosity 0.68 containing 4% by weight of lenglycol and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 as component B, it has the cross-sectional shape shown in Fig. 3.
- An unstretched multifilament yarn (A and B, 48 layers each with an elongation of 210%) of a split-type composite fiber with 90 denierno and 20 filaments was obtained.
- the above polyester intermediate oriented multifilament yarn and the undrawn multifilament yarn of the splittable conjugate fiber are aligned and supplied to the ink lace nozzle, and the over feed rate is 1% and the pneumatic pressure is 2 kg Zc
- the false twisting process was performed at room temperature under the conditions of a false twist speed of 225 m / min, a surface speed of the false twist disk of 45 Om / min, and a draw ratio of 1.4 times.
- the boiling water shrinkage of the high shrinkage polyester multifilament constituting the obtained two-layer structure yarn was 70%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the splittable conjugate fiber was 60% ( then, the processed yarn Using a 33 OT / m Z twist on the warp and a 100 TZm Z twist on the weft, the warp cover factor is 1624, and the weft cover factor is 1126.
- the satin fabric was woven The shrinkage initiation temperature Ts of the fabric was 52 ° C.
- the woven fabric was immersed in a caustic soda solution at a concentration of 100 gZ1 and 50 ° C to dissolve and remove the component A, thereby forming an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- the woven fabric was heated and shrunk in an expanded state using an oven soaper to reduce the surface area of the woven fabric by 42%.
- the heating temperature was 62 at the inlet of the oven soper, and the temperature was gradually increased to 95 ° C at the outlet.
- the above-mentioned woven fabric was subjected to kneading at 130 using a Circular dyeing machine, dried, and then buffed and dyed according to a conventional method.
- the obtained woven fabric has a cross-sectional shape as shown in Fig. 1, its apparent specific gravity B is 0.45, and the shear stiffness G is 0.51, and the woven fabric has a sufficient feeling of ground tightness. , Heaven Naturally, it had a soft feel and surface touch comparable to nubuck, and no staining spots occurred.
- Example 1 the shapes and composition ratios of the components A and B constituting the sea-island composite fiber and the composite fiber or the split composite fiber were changed, and the monofilament fineness and flatness of the ultrafine polyester filament were displayed.
- Woven and woven fabrics were processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the change as shown in 1.
- the polyester intermediate-oriented multifilament yarn used in Example 1 and the undrawn multifilament yarn of the split-type composite fiber are subjected to a drawing heat treatment, and then subjected to an overfeed rate of 1% and 3%, respectively.
- the mixture was fed to an interlacing nozzle to obtain a double-layered yarn mixed at a pressure and air pressure of 2 kgc.
- the resulting boiling Agamizu shrinkage of high shrinkage polyester multifilament filler main emission Bok constituting the two-layered structured yarn is 50%, also, boiling water shrinkage rate of the splittable conjugate fibers was 4 0% c Then the The mixed yarn was woven in the same manner as in Example 1.
- the shrinkage onset temperature Ts of the woven fabric is 58. C.
- the woven fabric was immersed in a caustic soda solution having a concentration of 100 g Z 1, and the component A was dissolved at a temperature shown in Table 2 to form an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- a caustic soda solution having a concentration of 100 g Z 1
- the component A was dissolved at a temperature shown in Table 2 to form an ultrafine polyester multifilament.
- the woven fabric was shrunk in an expanded state by changing the temperature of heat shrinkage using an oven spar. Furthermore, in the fabric, subjected to rubbing processing in 1 3 0 ° C using Sakiyura one dyeing machine, dried, shown in Table 2 puffs brushed, stained c results in a conventional manner. Table 2
- Example 1 prior to the dissolution and removal of easily soluble components, the fabric was subjected to scouring (80 V), relaxation (boiling water), and bresset (180 ° C), and subsequently immersed in a caustic soda solution that had been boiled. The fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the readily soluble component was dissolved.
- the obtained woven fabric had a cross-sectional configuration as shown in FIG. 2, and the apparent specific gravity B was 0.25 cm3 / g, and the shear rigidity G was 1.67. A part of the obtained woven fabric had stained spots, and there was a part where the surface touch was hardened, and there was no feeling of tightness and the quality was poor.
- Example 1 was the same as Example 1 except that, after dissolving and removing the easily soluble components, the heat-shrinkage in the spread state was not performed, and the kneading process was performed while performing the heat treatment at 120 using a circular dying machine. The fabric was similarly processed.
- the apparent specific gravity B of the obtained fabric is 0.34 cm 3 Zg, and the shear rigidity G is 1.48. Met.
- the obtained woven fabric still had a strain caused by the kneading process, and was of poor quality without a sense of tightness.
- the apparent specific gravity and shear stiffness of a commercially available nubuck-like fabric were measured.
- the apparent specific gravity B of the fabric was 0.28, and the shear rigidity G was 3.93.
- the nubuck-like woven fabric of the present invention is homogeneous, has excellent ground-tightness, and has a soft feel and a surface sunset. Therefore, this nubuck-like fabric can be suitably used for applications such as jackets, blousons, and coats.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nanotechnology (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US08/676,245 US5753351A (en) | 1994-11-18 | 1995-11-17 | Nubuck-like woven fabric and method of producing same |
JP51673196A JP3187842B2 (ja) | 1994-11-18 | 1995-11-17 | ヌバック調織物およびその製造方法 |
EP95938031A EP0745713B1 (en) | 1994-11-18 | 1995-11-17 | Nubuck type woven fabric and method of production thereof |
DE69529564T DE69529564T2 (de) | 1994-11-18 | 1995-11-17 | Gewebe vom nubuck typ und verfahren zu seiner herstellung |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP6/284960 | 1994-11-18 | ||
JP28496094 | 1994-11-18 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1996016212A1 true WO1996016212A1 (fr) | 1996-05-30 |
Family
ID=17685314
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/JP1995/002358 WO1996016212A1 (fr) | 1994-11-18 | 1995-11-17 | Etoffe tissee du type nubuck et procede pour la fabriquer |
Country Status (7)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US5753351A (ja) |
EP (1) | EP0745713B1 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP3187842B2 (ja) |
KR (1) | KR100265219B1 (ja) |
CN (1) | CN1046563C (ja) |
DE (1) | DE69529564T2 (ja) |
WO (1) | WO1996016212A1 (ja) |
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JP2009161890A (ja) * | 2008-01-10 | 2009-07-23 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | 防水性織物および繊維製品 |
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AU2000270110A1 (en) * | 2000-08-10 | 2002-02-18 | Dollfus Mieg And Cie - Dmc | Yarn with central core and use thereof |
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US9605126B2 (en) | 2013-12-17 | 2017-03-28 | Eastman Chemical Company | Ultrafiltration process for the recovery of concentrated sulfopolyester dispersion |
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JP6538381B2 (ja) * | 2014-09-29 | 2019-07-03 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | 捲縮糸の製造方法 |
CN105088411A (zh) * | 2015-09-25 | 2015-11-25 | 张家港欣阳化纤有限公司 | 一种耐磨吸汗型纤维及其制备方法 |
KR101969325B1 (ko) | 2018-08-21 | 2019-04-17 | 주식회사 코더 | 천연피혁의 은면층과 유두층을 구현한 친환경 누벅형 인공피혁의 제조방법. |
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- 1995-11-17 WO PCT/JP1995/002358 patent/WO1996016212A1/ja active IP Right Grant
- 1995-11-17 CN CN95191670A patent/CN1046563C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1995-11-17 KR KR1019960703865A patent/KR100265219B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1995-11-17 JP JP51673196A patent/JP3187842B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1995-11-17 US US08/676,245 patent/US5753351A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
KR100265219B1 (ko) | 2000-09-15 |
EP0745713B1 (en) | 2003-02-05 |
CN1046563C (zh) | 1999-11-17 |
EP0745713A4 (en) | 1997-06-25 |
US5753351A (en) | 1998-05-19 |
DE69529564T2 (de) | 2003-12-11 |
JP3187842B2 (ja) | 2001-07-16 |
KR970700793A (ko) | 1997-02-12 |
EP0745713A1 (en) | 1996-12-04 |
CN1141066A (zh) | 1997-01-22 |
DE69529564D1 (de) | 2003-03-13 |
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