TWI391544B - 吸濕排汗之布料及用該布料製作的服裝 - Google Patents

吸濕排汗之布料及用該布料製作的服裝 Download PDF

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TWI391544B
TWI391544B TW095135032A TW95135032A TWI391544B TW I391544 B TWI391544 B TW I391544B TW 095135032 A TW095135032 A TW 095135032A TW 95135032 A TW95135032 A TW 95135032A TW I391544 B TWI391544 B TW I391544B
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fabric
moisture wicking
fibers
fiber
hydrophobic
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TW200716805A (en
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Richard Burrow Thomas
Firgo Heinrich
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Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61F—FILTERS IMPLANTABLE INTO BLOOD VESSELS; PROSTHESES; DEVICES PROVIDING PATENCY TO, OR PREVENTING COLLAPSING OF, TUBULAR STRUCTURES OF THE BODY, e.g. STENTS; ORTHOPAEDIC, NURSING OR CONTRACEPTIVE DEVICES; FOMENTATION; TREATMENT OR PROTECTION OF EYES OR EARS; BANDAGES, DRESSINGS OR ABSORBENT PADS; FIRST-AID KITS
    • A61F13/00—Bandages or dressings; Absorbent pads
    • A61F13/15—Absorbent pads, e.g. sanitary towels, swabs or tampons for external or internal application to the body; Supporting or fastening means therefor; Tampon applicators
    • A61F13/53—Absorbent pads, e.g. sanitary towels, swabs or tampons for external or internal application to the body; Supporting or fastening means therefor; Tampon applicators characterised by the absorbing medium
    • A61F13/534—Absorbent pads, e.g. sanitary towels, swabs or tampons for external or internal application to the body; Supporting or fastening means therefor; Tampon applicators characterised by the absorbing medium having an inhomogeneous composition through the thickness of the pad
    • A61F13/537—Absorbent pads, e.g. sanitary towels, swabs or tampons for external or internal application to the body; Supporting or fastening means therefor; Tampon applicators characterised by the absorbing medium having an inhomogeneous composition through the thickness of the pad characterised by a layer facilitating or inhibiting flow in one direction or plane, e.g. a wicking layer
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/527—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads waterproof or water-repellent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
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    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/12—Hygroscopic; Water retaining
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/12—Hygroscopic; Water retaining
    • A41D31/125—Moisture handling or wicking function through layered materials
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    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/06—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer characterised by a fibrous or filamentary layer mechanically connected, e.g. by needling to another layer, e.g. of fibres, of paper
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    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
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    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2400/00—Functions or special features of shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2400/60—Moisture handling or wicking function
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
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    • D10B2321/022—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polypropylene
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    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic

Description

吸濕排汗之布料及用該布料製作的服裝
本發明係有關吸濕排汗布料，尤係有關含有Lyocell及/或其他纖維素纖維的吸濕排汗布料。另外，本發明亦有關使用此等吸濕排汗布料製作的服裝。
功能布料或活性布料的需求相當大，尤其是用在製作運動服裝或其他用途的布料，水氣必須要能很快速地並且很舒適地從布料的一面向另外一面移出，然後被散佈到寬大的表面以便因蒸發而大大地提昇冷卻效果。另外，此等布料也較一般布料更快速乾燥。
這類功能布料不僅必須有效地具備它們將水氣散佈的能力，另外，它們也必須在使用時具備舒適特性。理想的來說，這類布料在製作成服裝時，在服裝的內面上會感到較其外面上更乾燥。另外，它們最好不要太重，以致在使用時感到不舒適。
在昔用工藝的一種裡，這類布料係以聚酯製作成二層，其內層完全由疏水性的聚酯材料構成，而其外層係由經過處理的親水性的聚酯構成。這些親水性加工是以化學處理方式對聚酯進行處理，而不幸的是，吾人發現，這些布料在洗滌時會失去它們的親水性加工處理劑，因此，從舒適以及工作服裝性能的觀點來說，是會衰減。
疏水性的材料可能是吸濕性很弱，比方說，聚酯和聚丙烯晴(polyacrylonitrites)，其具有低於大約25%的低保水性；或是完全不吸濕性的，比方說，聚丙烯、聚氯乙烯或聚乙烯等。
親水性的材料也有可能具有強的厭水性，比方說，纖維素纖維或羊毛。
另外，在已公開的美國專利申請案第2004/0058072號中提出了以紡絲生產布料的方法，在該方法裡，有一纖維素纖維的紡絲(I)，其至少有一部份係經以一疏水性處理加工，以及一纖維素纖維的紡絲(II)，其較該紡絲(I)有較高的吸水能力，該布料係將該紡絲(I)與紡絲(II)針織或平織在一起而生產的，致其內側表面的吸水能力較其外側表面的吸水能力低。
同樣地，這一類的加工涉及了纖維的化學處理，以給予所希望的效果，而這類化學處理劑並不是永久性的，在使用時會水洗掉。
現在，我們發現到，是有可能以並不需要經過化學處理就可有效的纖維來生產出功能的吸濕排汗布料。
本發明提供了一種供製做服裝的吸濕排汗布料，該布料之一最外面幾完全由一本質上疏水性材料的纖維構成，而其另一最外面由一本質上疏水性的材料與一親水性纖維(尤其是纖維素纖維)的混合物纖維構成。
另外，本發明提供了一種供製做服裝的吸濕排汗布料，該布料之一最外面幾完全由一本質上疏水性材料的纖維構成，而其另一最外面由一本質上疏水性材料(比方說，一人造材料或塑膠材料)與一親水性的纖維材料(比方說，纖維素纖維)的混合物構成，藉此使得該布料的一面較該布料的另一面更具疏水性。
所謂的本質上疏水性材料比方說，一聚酯、一聚胺或一聚丙烯，係指其吸水性或保水性低於25%。
最好，該本質上疏水性的塑膠材料為一聚酯。在該布料的一面上，該本質上疏水性材料的纖維，亦即塑膠材料，可以用與在該布料另一面上的該本質上疏水性材料(亦即塑膠材料)的纖維同樣的(或不同的)材料構成。
最好，該親水性的(尤其是纖維素的)纖維與一本質上疏水性的材料(比方說，塑膠材料)的混合物含有低於或不超過50%的親水性的(尤其是纖維素的)材料。最好，該纖維素材料為Lyocell，但是，也有可能使用其他纖維素的材料，或Lyocell纖維與一種或一種以上的(比方說，使用較小的量)其他類型的纖維素材料的混合物。通常，最好Lyocell及/或其他纖維素材料的含量在10%到50%，最好在20%到40%，更好是大約30%。在這布層裡可以使用短纖及/或連續的長纖。
該布料可以藉由針織或平織，或不織的黏結工藝技術(比方說，針刺黏結)來生產。它們不需要使用(而通常事實上並不使用)一黏結劑。它們的好處是，它們不會因受熱而變硬或變得不柔軟。一種較佳的製造該布料的方法是藉由一針織作業，以一雙面佳積以同時地生產兩布料層，該兩布料層藉由一交聯線交聯以便緊密地接觸。
另外，一種生產該布料的方法是藉由針刺黏結，在這方法裡，一層空壓舖陳的聚酯纖維或其他疏水性的纖維經舖陳到一層空壓舖陳的Lyocell及/或其他纖維素纖維的上面，該兩布料層經針紮在一起，針是從聚酯層的一面進入，而針鈎經引導致迫使該聚酯纖維進入到底下一層的Lyocell及/或其他纖維素纖維層裡，以生產出在布料一面上幾完全為聚酯，而在布料另一面上為聚酯和Lyocell及/或其他纖維素材料的混合物。
本發明另提供了一種由上述布料縫製成的服裝，在該實施例裡，該服裝的接觸穿著者身體的一面(此時，穿著者是穿著服裝的內面)，幾完全由(100%)該疏水性的布層構成，而該服裝的外側面係由(比方說)疏水性的纖維與纖維素纖維的混合物構成。由於該服裝不接觸穿著者的一面係以幾種纖維的混合物構成，傳輸到服裝外面的水氣會很快地分散到服裝外表面；而接觸到穿著者皮膚的是該疏水性表面，其並不散佈汗水，因此，穿著者不會感到黏糊感。該服裝可以用整件成衣針織方式生產，藉此，該服裝可以經由單一針織作業而成型為雙層的運動衣產品。
功能布料，尤其是適合用來製作運動服裝的吸濕排汗布料，必須經過許多道加工，另外，也必須在美觀和性能上有良好的平衡。舉個例說，由百分之百聚酯布料所縫製的運動服裝能很快地將水氣從接觸到穿著者皮膚的一面排到外面。然而，百分之百聚酯布料感覺不舒適，而且幾完全無法將水氣保留在布料裡。尤其，這類布料僅能將水氣由內側送到外側，而經送出的水氣並不會向側向散佈。因此，在產生大量水氣的部位，比方說，背脊中央的部位和腋下，在布料裡以及布料上會快速的堆積水氣，使得布料觸感不好，這表示，該布料只能慢慢地乾燥。
業者提出了以二層結構的聚酯布料來縫製運動服裝的建議，一內層為百分之百疏水性的，亦即未經加工處理的聚酯；一外層為經處理成親水性的聚酯構成的布料。然而，這類處理通常只是表面處理加工，經連續的水洗之後表面處理會脫落。此外，這些布料仍舊有著人造纖維布料的手感或觸感，並且有著百分之百聚酯布料的一般特性，也就是說，它們容易起毛球，並且容易堆積靜電。
在另一方面，百分之百的纖維素纖維有著不同類的問題。這些布料的吸水性(或吸濕性)太高了，以致水份不會散佈，使得布料感覺很濕、很重，並且黏冰冰的。
另外，纖維素纖維比起聚酯纖維更貴，因此，織成的布料和製成的服裝，成本更高。
本發明(如圖1所示)提供了一種吸濕排汗布料，其尤適於特殊用途，比方說，運動服裝。該布料有一兩層結構，最好，其一面(1)幾完全由一本質上疏水性的塑膠材料(比方說，聚酯)的纖維構成；而其另一面(2)由Lyocell纖維與一本質上疏水性的塑膠材料的纖維混合物構成。其他類纖維素纖維(比方說，棉纖維、壓克力纖維或黏液縲縈纖維)亦可用來取代Lyocell纖維或與Lyocell纖維攙用，但是，最好是用Lyocell，因為它的手感好、強度夠，尤其是吸濕強度。
這樣的一種布料製成的服裝穿著舒適，而且又有很高的將水氣散佈的特性。
吾人特別發現，如果該布料層(2)由一聚酯構成的，本質上疏水性的塑膠材料纖維與從重量的10%到50%的Lyocell纖維混合物構成，則所生產的布料具有永久性的將水氣散佈的特性，不會因為重覆的洗滌而衰減。
為了讓大家能夠瞭解本發明，下文提出了有關布料吸水性的背景資料，該等資料證實了在前述的布料層(2)的聚酯混合物中採用從重量的10%到50%的Lyocell所製成的布料可以得到特別的好處。
一種已知的測試布料吸水性的方法是所謂的“比重法吸水測試系統”(GATS)。這樣的一種系統的詳細說明在“國際不織布期刊”第11卷，第4期(2002年冬季刊)中由柯諾卡、波德希米 (Konopka and Pourdeyhimi)和金 (kim)所著的一篇文章“不織布的平面上水份的分佈：Part I－實驗性觀察”中有述，特別是第23頁到第25頁中有述。重要的是，“比重法吸水測試”所使用的裝置如圖2中所概略示出，其有一水槽3，以一U－型管4連到一出口點5。一受測布料盤6置於出口點5上方，使得布料盤6的材料藉由毛細作用從水槽3通過U－型管4吸汲水。然而，只有能吸水的布料才會將水“吸”入。
圖3中所示為一吸水性圖表，縱軸表示每一公克的布料所吸收水氣的公克數，橫軸表示時間(單位：秒)。重點是，在吸水初期階段(圖表上曲線7的第一部份)該布料會吸水，一直到一穩定階段(圖表上曲線8的第二部份)。曲線7的坡度愈陡，表示該布料的吸水率愈大，也就是說，該布料能更快更好的吸水。該平緩線8的高度值表示該布料吸水的總能力。進行了一連串的測試，以瞭解該布料將水氣散佈的速率，即每秒鐘每公克的布料吸收水份的公克數(g/gs)。這些測試是用不同的聚酯/Lyoccll布料進行的，從100%未經處理的聚酯纖維之聚酯布料，到漸漸增加Lyocell的含量，到100%的Lyocell的布料。這些測試的結果示於表1。
從這些測試，不同布料的吸水率相對Lyocell的含量畫到圖表上。可以看出，圖4中所示的圖表高度上昇了，而吸水速率(AR)在縱軸上顯示，聚酯/Lyocell布料混合物裡的Lyocell含量百分比在橫軸上顯示。
從這張圖表我們可以看到，隨著在布料裡採用了愈多的Lyocell，在初期吸水速率會增加，一直增加到最高大約50%。超過50%吸水速率並不會再往上增加。
姑不論本發明之範疇，這種行為的原因吾人相信是因為(當只有一小部份的纖維是纖維素纖維，比方說，Lyocell時)並不存在一條由纖維素纖維構成連續的讓水氣流動的路徑。然而，當有了足夠的纖維素纖維存在，水氣可以沿著一纖維素纖維構成的連續路徑移動通過布料。一旦每一條纖維素纖維接觸了許多鄰近的纖維，纖維素纖維含量比率再作增加亦不會讓其有更進一步的保濕效果。
這項不經意的發現引出了本發明，而本發明的第2層布料即包含了Lyocell(及/或其他纖維素纖維)與聚酯(及/或其他人造纖維)的混合物。另外，吾人特別發現到，藉著讓該第2層為聚酯與Lyocell的混合物，而不是百分之百Lyocell，通過該聚酯層吸收保濕的水氣會被引導通過第2層向側向散佈，而不會像由百分之百的Lyocell構成的第2層情形那樣堆積在一處。
在第2層裡的Lyocell纖維，藉著從第1層吸收保濕水氣，增進了第1層的蒸散效果，並有助於防止以該布料縫製的服裝在穿著時會感到不舒適。經吾人觀察後發現，在依照本發明的較佳實施例的第2層裡，水氣可以大約每十秒鐘7.5公分的速率向側向移動。這表示，在不到一分鐘水氣可移動幾乎半公尺，換句話說，如果一個人穿了一件以這樣的布料縫製的襯衫，那麼水氣實際上可移動橫越全身。這表示，在依照本發明的布料所縫製的衣服裡，在高排汗部位(比方說，背脊周圍以及腋下)所產生的水氣可以在第2層裡被吸收保濕到側向，以增進用這類布料縫製的運動服裝的舒適度。此外，藉由這側向的散佈使得吸附大量水氣的表面積增加了，藉此也增進了服裝整體的蒸發率。由於聚酯纖維重量較Lyocell纖維要輕，因此布料整體上可以維持在重量輕的布料，也就更進一步增進了穿著者的舒適度。
大家應當知道，製作這樣兩層的結構是有許多方法，進一步言之，布料層1和布料層2可以織在一起，或是以雙面佳積針織在一起，這類工法在美國專利5,209,084中有述，使用的針織機在瑞士Edouard Dubied & Cie SA 1967年出版的“杜比德針織手冊 ”(Dubied Knitting Manual)中有述。
藉由這樣的方法，布料層1和布料層2可以同時完成，並且同時交聯在一起，而布料層1僅使用聚酯紡絲，而布料層2使用聚酯/Lyocell混合紡絲。
另外一種製造這布料的方法是將兩層不織的網層針紮在一起。如圖5和圖6中所示，以空壓舖陳的聚酯短纖纖維或以空壓舖陳的聚酯連續長纖網(I)10經舖陳到一布料層(II)12上面。布料層12是一空壓舖陳的Lyocell和聚酯的混合纖維編成的布胎或網層。然後，這兩層再以織針(圖中14所指)(這些織針有著向下的倒鉤，如圖中15所指)。這樣可將纖維從上層10推壓進入到下層12，在圖6中可以看得更清楚。由於倒鉤15是向下的，因此織針只會將布料層10向下壓，而將布料層12向上拉的程度要小得多了。因此，也就是說，形成了一個聯結的結構，其上層10為聚酯纖維，其下層12為Lyocell與聚酯纖維的混合，另外，加上了從布料層10拉下來的另外聚酯纖維。圖6中所示的手指狀延伸16將布料層10推進到布料層12裡，可以將一部份聚酯攜帶通過布料層12而抵達布料層12的底部上。
在這個方法的另一個實施例裡，布料層12可完全由未經針紮的Lyocell纖維構成。這樣的結果，構成Lyocell和聚酯的混合物，如圖6中所示，它比起一開始就使用聚酯和Lyocell纖維來製作布料層12所生產的混合物，稍稍不那麼緊密地聯結。
很顯然的，若布料層12一開始就是聚酯和Lyocell混合物，那麼，在布料層12裡，一開始Lyocell的含量會比起在經針紮後在布料層裡的Lyocell含量要大些，因此，應當視布料層12最終所希望的Lyocell含量，作適當的調配。
本發明的另一個好處是，用來製作兩個布料層的針織加工可以用來在已知的整件成衣針織法的單一作業針織整件成衣，致使從一聚酯或其他疏水性的內層與一聚酯與纖維素纖維(通常是採用Lyocell)混合外層一次完成。
儘管本發明的較佳實施例已經作了敘述，實施例中提及了Lyocell和聚酯，內行人應當知道，其他吸水性的纖維和布料，比方說，其他纖維素纖維，包括黏液纖維、壓克力纖維、棉纖維，甚至羊毛皆可採用。
親水性的材料包括不吸水或弱吸水性的材料。
1．．．布料層(1)
2．．．布料層(2)
3．．．水槽
4．．．U型管
5．．．出口點
6．．．受測布料盤
7．．．曲線
8．．．曲線
10．．．布料層(上層)
12．．．布料層(下層)
14．．．織針
15．．．倒鉤
16．．．指狀延伸
現在，參照本說明書後附的圖面，對本發明較佳的實施例加以說明，圖面中：圖1為依照本發明的一布料的概要斷面圖；圖2為一經修改的比重法吸水測試系統(Gats)的示意圖示；圖3為吸收率/時間的圖示；圖4為一在一Lyocell/聚酯材料混合物中，吸收率/Lyocell含量百分比的圖示；圖5為一針紮系統的概要圖示；圖6為圖5中扁圓VI部位一放大的圖示。
1．．．布料層(1)
2．．．布料層(2)

Claims (14)

  1. 一種吸濕排汗布料，其係供製作服裝之用，該布料之最外面之一實質上完全由一本質上疏水性的纖維構成，而其另一最外面則由一親水性纖維與疏水性纖維混合的材料構成，其中，該二料層係以針織、平織，或針刺黏結方式結合在一起。
  2. 根據申請專利範圍第1項的吸濕排汗布料，該布料的一面較其另一面更具疏水性。
  3. 根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項的吸濕排汗布料，其一最外面實質上完全由一本質上疏水性的合成材料或塑膠材料構成，而其另一最外面是由疏水性的合成材料或塑膠材料與親水性纖維混合的材料構成。
  4. 根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項的吸濕排汗布料，其中，該等親水性纖維為纖維素纖維。
  5. 根據申請專利範圍第4項的吸濕排汗布料，其中，該等纖維素纖維係選自棉纖維、Lyocell及黏液縲縈。
  6. 根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中，該本質上疏水性材料為選自聚乙烯和聚丙烯。
  7. 根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中，在該布料的一面上的該本質上疏水性材料纖維係以不同於在其另一面上的該本質上疏水性材料纖維所構成。
  8. 根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中，在該布料的一面上的該本質上疏水性材料的纖維係以相同於在其另一面上的該本質上疏水性材料纖維所構成。
  9. 根據申請專利範圍第4項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中，該由纖維混合 物構成的布料層含有不多於50%的纖維素纖維，以及不少於50%的一本質上疏水性的塑膠材料的纖維。
  10. 根據申請專利範圍第9項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中，該由纖維混合物構成的布料層含有10%到50%，是好是20%到40%，而更好的是大約30%的纖維素纖維。
  11. 根據申請專利範圍第9項中的吸濕排汗布料，其中的纖維素纖維為Lyocell纖維。
  12. 根據申請專利範圍第1項中的吸濕排汗布料，在該布料中，該二料層係在其本身經以針織或平織方式製造的同時即被結合在一起。
  13. 一種由吸濕排汗布料製作的服裝，其所使用之布料係根據申請專利範圍第1項或第2項中所述，在該布料中，含有纖維的混合物一面係該服裝的外面。
  14. 根據申請專利範圍第13項中的由吸濕排汗布料製作的服裝，其係以整件成衣針織方式所針織而成。
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US20090133446A1 (en) 2009-05-28
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US8127575B2 (en) 2012-03-06
PT1968785E (pt) 2011-06-07
KR101455402B1 (ko) 2014-10-27
GB0519462D0 (en) 2005-11-02
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