EP0945079B1 - Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0945079B1
EP0945079B1 EP19980102640 EP98102640A EP0945079B1 EP 0945079 B1 EP0945079 B1 EP 0945079B1 EP 19980102640 EP19980102640 EP 19980102640 EP 98102640 A EP98102640 A EP 98102640A EP 0945079 B1 EP0945079 B1 EP 0945079B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
ironing
range
wool
steam
temperature
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP19980102640
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0945079A1 (fr
Inventor
Peter Sladky
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MAERZ MUENCHEN AG
Original Assignee
Marz Muenchen AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Marz Muenchen AG filed Critical Marz Muenchen AG
Priority to EP03009624A priority Critical patent/EP1342424A3/fr
Priority to EP19980102640 priority patent/EP0945079B1/fr
Publication of EP0945079A1 publication Critical patent/EP0945079A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0945079B1 publication Critical patent/EP0945079B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
    • D06F73/00—Apparatus for smoothing or removing creases from garments or other textile articles by formers, cores, stretchers, or internal frames, with the application of heat or steam 
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
    • D06F71/00—Apparatus for hot-pressing clothes, linen or other textile articles, i.e. wherein there is substantially no relative movement between pressing element and article while pressure is being applied to the article; Similar machines for cold-pressing clothes, linen or other textile articles
    • D06F71/32—Details
    • D06F71/40—Holders or stretchers for the article to be pressed

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing knitwear for outerwear on flat knitting machines.
  • a high quality knitwear is desired to have no warp occur and the different parts look optically smooth.
  • the outerwear is machine washable the outer clothing should be used after washing and subsequent use Ironing look smooth and even.
  • GB-A-2300107 discloses a process for the manufacture of knitted fabrics, whereby knitted garments are made on a flat bed knitting machine become. The parts are placed in a pre-treatment process with steam Pressure applied. Then the parts become a piece of clothing composed. Finally, steam treatment with a Steam pressure of 5 bar and a temperature of 140 ° C and then pressing under steam in a press station.
  • the invention according to claim 1 is by pre-ironing the parts and the later pressing under steam of the parts assembled to form outer clothing ensures that the outer clothing has a smooth and uniform appearance and there are no stitch warps.
  • machine washable Virgin wool is achieved due to the manufacturing steps according to the invention the outer clothing even after washing and ironing again looks optically smooth and maintains its shape stability. It has been in practice shown that the knitted fabric after washing in the washing machine 30 ° C or in a wool wash and after machine drying in a tumble dryer maintains its original smooth and even appearance. Further has resulted in the application of the invention that for wool in this Treatment inevitable reduction in length even with repeated treatment is less than 5%.
  • Pure wool in the range from 98 to 100% is preferably used as new wool, to get the desired result.
  • a special one good mesh quality is obtained when the machine washable combed Virgin wool with a minimum fineness of 17.5 to 21 ⁇ m is used, i.e. the thickness of the wool hair is in the specified range.
  • threads are preferably processed that have at least Are 2 threads and a number metric number Nm from 10 to 11 and 13 to have 14.
  • the threads are knitted in a high mesh density processed, for Nm from 10 to 11 in 77 to 83 rows, in particular 80.5 rows: for Nm from 13 to 14 there are 87 to 94 rows, in particular 91 rows, each based on a height of 10 cm of the knitted area. Processing takes place on a flat-knitting machine with a gauge value 18 gg to 21 gg, this gauge indicates how many needles of the comb each 38.1 mm ( ⁇ 1.5 inches) are present.
  • a bracket shape used, which is enveloped by the assembled part.
  • the bow shape has a flat mold carrier, which is provided on both sides with foam, whereby a covering material is applied over the foam.
  • This bracket shape ensures that the outer garment, for example a sweater or a tank top, is completely filled from the inside. Guaranteed when pressing under steam the bow shape has high dimensional stability, even if with a relatively high pressure, large amount of steam and high temperature. Due to the A large number of through holes in the mold carrier can cause an intensive temperature and steam exchange take place, so that the inside of the outer garment undergoes a corresponding heat treatment.
  • the bow shape can around Longitudinal axis are folded, the assembled in the folded state Part is put over the bow shape. When unfolded, it fills Iron the outer garment completely from the inside. By this measure a good pressing result is also achieved in the sleeve area, the Folding processes by the operating personnel are relatively easy to accomplish.
  • the temperature used for pre-ironing or pressing can be in the range from 140 to 190 ° C.
  • a relatively high temperature range is preferred chosen from 150 to 180 ° C to achieve the stitches of the knitted fabric be fixed and an optically perfect result is achieved.
  • bracket shape With the help of the bracket shape described it is achieved that also in a good pressing result is achieved in the edge areas of the assembled parts becomes. Especially when using machine-washable new wool yourself after washing the outer garment in the washing machine and then ironing the mesh parts for a smooth and even look receive.
  • FIG 1 shows a block diagram of the manufacturing steps in the manufacture of a Sweater.
  • This sweater is made of machine-washable new wool with one Share of pure wool from 98 to 100% knitted and knitted (step 10).
  • step 10 there is a two-thread processing, i.e. there are two separate threads in parallel processed during the knitting process or the knitting process.
  • the double thread processing ensures dimensional stability in connection with the various ironing processes the sweater (step 12).
  • step 14 the cuffs required for the sweater are knitted. On The large sweater parts are knitted (step 16).
  • the sweater parts are pre-ironed at a temperature of 140 to 190 ° C with upper steam and lower steam in an ironing machine.
  • the temperature is chosen from the range of 180 to 190 ° C to the knitted fabric to stretch smoothly.
  • step 20 the different sweater parts are put together, i.e. assembled.
  • step 22 the ready-made Sweater applied to the temple shape.
  • the bow shape which continues the sleeves are pivoted about their longitudinal axis on the arm elements of the bow shape and the sweater body over the Shaped body.
  • step 24 press ironing in a press at 140 to 190 ° C, also with top and bottom steam.
  • optional ironing of individual parts of the sweater is carried out by hand (step 26) to give the sweater a smooth look, especially around the edges.
  • Figure 2 shows the bow shape 30, which consists of two sleeve elements 32, 34 and one Longitudinal body 36 is composed.
  • the bow shape 30 is about a longitudinal axis 38 foldable by a predetermined angle, i.e. hinges are provided, which allow the bracket shape 30 to pivot about the axis 38.
  • the bow shape includes a flat aluminum mold carrier 40 in which a variety of Through holes 42 are embedded, which allow a steam exchange. Foam 44 is coated on both sides of the flat mold carrier 40, via which a temperature-resistant coating material 46 is arranged.
  • the bracket shape 30 When the bracket shape 30 is in operation, the bracket shape 30 is first about the axis 38 pivoted so far that the sweater effortlessly over the sleeve elements 32 and the body 36 can be put over. Then the bow shape 30 again pivoted back into its overall flat shape so that the sleeve elements 34 and the body 36 completely fill the sweater from the inside.
  • the Temple shape 30 is placed on the table of a press together with the sweater, which has an upper ironing plate.
  • the temple shape 30 with the sweater is printed and steam, which consists of the table top and the upper ironing plate exit. Because of the through holes 42 and the permeability of the covering material 46 and foam 44 there is an effective steam exchange, so that the inside of the sweater is also heat treated.
  • the Bow shape 30 can be adjusted in each case.
  • the arm elements 32, 34 are omitted. It is also in such a case not necessary to equip the bracket shape with a swivel mechanism.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'articles tricotés pour vêtements pour métier de type Cotton, comportant les étapes suivantes consistant à :
    a) préparer de la laine vierge,
    b) tricoter la laine vierge pour réaliser des pièces de vêtement,
    c) réaliser un pré-repassage des pièces à la vapeur,
    d) réaliser la confection,
    e) presser les pièces confectionnées à la vapeur à une température prédéterminée, en utilisant une forme de repassage (30) qui est enveloppée par la pièce confectionnée.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il est utilisé comme laine vierge de la laine vierge lavable en machine, de préférence de la laine vierge peignée dont les brins ont une épaisseur comprise entre 17,5 et 21 µm.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que la laine vierge contient entre 90 et 100%, de préférence entre 95 et 100%, en particulier entre 98 et 100%, de laine pure.
  4. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la forme de repassage (30) comporte un support de forme plat (40) qui est doté, des deux côtés, de matière alvéolaire (44) sur laquelle on applique des deux côtés une matière de revêtement (46), le support de forme (40) comportant de préférence une pluralité de trous de passage (42) destiné à laisser passer la vapeur.
  5. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la forme de repassage (30) est rabattue autour d'un axe longitudinal (38), en ce que dans cet agencement la pièce confectionnée est retournée sur la forme de repassage (30), puis la forme de repassage est dépliée de sorte que la pièce enveloppe la forme de repassage dépliée (30).
  6. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'une température et de la vapeur sont appliquées à la forme de repassage dotée du vêtement des deux côtés.
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que la température est comprise entre 140 et 190°C, de préférence entre 150 et 180°C.
  8. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la pression lors du processus de pressage est réglée de façon à ne générer aucune paillette.
  9. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le pré-repassage est effectué à une température comprise entre 140 et 190°C, de préférence entre 150 et 180°C.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que le pré-repassage est effectué en appliquant de la vapeur à la fois par-dessus et par-dessous.
  11. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la laine vierge est traitée en tant que retors à au moins deux fils, le retors ayant de préférence un compte métrique en Nm de 10 à 11 ou de 13 à 14.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que le traitement est effectué sur des métiers de type Cotton mt de jauge comprise entre 18 gg et 21 gg, et en ce que le taux de maillage, pour la valeur Nm comprise entre 10 et 11 sur une surface de tricotage de l'ordre de 10 cm, est compris entre 77 et 83 rangs de mailles, en étant de préférence de 80,5 rangs de mailles, et pour la valeur Nm comprise entre 13 et 14, est compris entre 87 et 94 rangs de mailles, en étant de préférence de 91 rangs de mailles.
EP19980102640 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot Expired - Lifetime EP0945079B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP03009624A EP1342424A3 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication d'articles en tricot
EP19980102640 EP0945079B1 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP19980102640 EP0945079B1 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot

Related Child Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP03009624A Division EP1342424A3 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication d'articles en tricot

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0945079A1 EP0945079A1 (fr) 1999-09-29
EP0945079B1 true EP0945079B1 (fr) 2003-05-07

Family

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Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19980102640 Expired - Lifetime EP0945079B1 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication des articles en tricot
EP03009624A Withdrawn EP1342424A3 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication d'articles en tricot

Family Applications After (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP03009624A Withdrawn EP1342424A3 (fr) 1998-02-16 1998-02-16 Procédé de fabrication d'articles en tricot

Country Status (1)

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EP (2) EP0945079B1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1142576B (de) * 1961-06-08 1963-01-24 Kannegiesser & Co Maschinenfab Spreizplatte fuer eine Buegelpresse
GB1194000A (en) * 1966-12-16 1970-06-03 Kannegieser Maschinenfabrik G Apparatus for the Treatment of Textile Articles by Steaming and Pressing
GB1343117A (en) * 1970-06-27 1974-01-10 Belgrave Wire Works Ltd Pressing shapes
IES950264A2 (en) * 1995-04-10 1995-07-26 Modern Exports Limited A knitted garment production process

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1342424A2 (fr) 2003-09-10
EP0945079A1 (fr) 1999-09-29
EP1342424A3 (fr) 2004-01-21

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