EP0945079B1 - Method for producing knitwear - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing knitwear for outerwear on flat knitting machines.

In the manufacture of knitwear for outerwear, e.g. of sweaters, Pullundem and jackets, a part is usually knitted, for example the Cuffs, the much larger part is knitted on knitting machines, for example on flat knitting machines. On these machines, one Thread system an entire row of stitches in a single operation educated. In the case of this wedging action, blanks arranged between the needles form to loop a thread over the needles and hang them beforehand row of stitches formed over the needle heads closed by a press in these new loops. The needles are in on the flat-knitting machine arranged in a row next to each other. With the described flat weft effect because of the simultaneity of the stitch formation there is a uniform one Mesh screen. Therefore, the flat-woving action is particularly suitable for production high-quality sweaters and tank tops, as is the case with the present invention the case is.

A high quality knitwear is desired to have no warp occur and the different parts look optically smooth. In particular when using machine-washable virgin wool that is processed in this way is that the outerwear is machine washable the outer clothing should be used after washing and subsequent use Ironing look smooth and even. At the state of the art During the manufacturing process of outer clothing, various ironing steps carried out to a certain consistency and uniformity of the knitted fabric to obtain. However, it has been shown that the setting of the various parameters is very difficult for the ironing process to get an optimal result.

GB-A-2300107 discloses a process for the manufacture of knitted fabrics, whereby knitted garments are made on a flat bed knitting machine become. The parts are placed in a pre-treatment process with steam Pressure applied. Then the parts become a piece of clothing composed. Finally, steam treatment with a Steam pressure of 5 bar and a temperature of 140 ° C and then pressing under steam in a press station.

It is an object of the invention to provide a method for producing knitwear and to provide a method of ironing which cause the knitwear maintains a smooth and even appearance.

This task is accomplished for a method of making knitwear the features of claim 1 solved. Advantageous further training are specified in the dependent claims.

In the invention according to claim 1 is by pre-ironing the parts and the later pressing under steam of the parts assembled to form outer clothing ensures that the outer clothing has a smooth and uniform appearance and there are no stitch warps. When using machine washable Virgin wool is achieved due to the manufacturing steps according to the invention the outer clothing even after washing and ironing again looks optically smooth and maintains its shape stability. It has been in practice shown that the knitted fabric after washing in the washing machine 30 ° C or in a wool wash and after machine drying in a tumble dryer maintains its original smooth and even appearance. Further has resulted in the application of the invention that for wool in this Treatment inevitable reduction in length even with repeated treatment is less than 5%.

Pure wool in the range from 98 to 100% is preferably used as new wool, to get the desired result. However, it is also possible to increase the proportion of plastic fibers, so that also a proportion of pure wool down to 90% and even up to 80% still gives good results. A special one good mesh quality is obtained when the machine washable combed Virgin wool with a minimum fineness of 17.5 to 21 µm is used, i.e. the thickness of the wool hair is in the specified range.

In one embodiment, threads are preferably processed that have at least Are 2 threads and a number metric number Nm from 10 to 11 and 13 to have 14. Depending on the Nm value, the threads are knitted in a high mesh density processed, for Nm from 10 to 11 in 77 to 83 rows, in particular 80.5 rows: for Nm from 13 to 14 there are 87 to 94 rows, in particular 91 rows, each based on a height of 10 cm of the knitted area. Processing takes place on a flat-knitting machine with a gauge value 18 gg to 21 gg, this gauge indicates how many needles of the comb each 38.1 mm (≅ 1.5 inches) are present.

In the invention, when pressing the Assembled parts under steam with a predetermined temperature a bracket shape used, which is enveloped by the assembled part. The bow shape has a flat mold carrier, which is provided on both sides with foam, whereby a covering material is applied over the foam. This bracket shape ensures that the outer garment, for example a sweater or a tank top, is completely filled from the inside. Guaranteed when pressing under steam the bow shape has high dimensional stability, even if with a relatively high pressure, large amount of steam and high temperature. Due to the A large number of through holes in the mold carrier can cause an intensive temperature and steam exchange take place, so that the inside of the outer garment undergoes a corresponding heat treatment.

According to an embodiment of the bow shape can around Longitudinal axis are folded, the assembled in the folded state Part is put over the bow shape. When unfolded, it fills Iron the outer garment completely from the inside. By this measure a good pressing result is also achieved in the sleeve area, the Folding processes by the operating personnel are relatively easy to accomplish.

The temperature used for pre-ironing or pressing can be in the range from 140 to 190 ° C. A relatively high temperature range is preferred chosen from 150 to 180 ° C to achieve the stitches of the knitted fabric be fixed and an optically perfect result is achieved.

With the help of the bracket shape described it is achieved that also in a good pressing result is achieved in the edge areas of the assembled parts becomes. Especially when using machine-washable new wool yourself after washing the outer garment in the washing machine and then ironing the mesh parts for a smooth and even look receive.

Figur 1

ein Blockdiagramm der Ablaufschritte des Verfahrens nach der Erfindung und

Figur 2

eine um eine Längsachse klappbare Bügelform.

An embodiment of the invention is explained below with reference to the drawing. It shows:

Figure 1

a block diagram of the steps of the method according to the invention and

Figure 2

a bow shape that can be folded around a longitudinal axis.

Figure 1 shows a block diagram of the manufacturing steps in the manufacture of a Sweater. This sweater is made of machine-washable new wool with one Share of pure wool from 98 to 100% knitted and knitted (step 10). .It there is a two-thread processing, i.e. there are two separate threads in parallel processed during the knitting process or the knitting process. The double thread processing ensures dimensional stability in connection with the various ironing processes the sweater (step 12).

In step 14, the cuffs required for the sweater are knitted. On The large sweater parts are knitted (step 16).

The sweater parts are pre-ironed at a temperature of 140 to 190 ° C with upper steam and lower steam in an ironing machine. Preferably the temperature is chosen from the range of 180 to 190 ° C to the knitted fabric to stretch smoothly.

In step 20 below, the different sweater parts are put together, i.e. assembled. Then in step 22 the ready-made Sweater applied to the temple shape. For this, the bow shape, which continues the sleeves are pivoted about their longitudinal axis on the arm elements of the bow shape and the sweater body over the Shaped body. This is followed by press ironing in a press at 140 to 190 ° C, also with top and bottom steam (step 24). Here too is preferred a temperature selected from the range of 150 to 180 ° C. optional ironing of individual parts of the sweater is carried out by hand (step 26) to give the sweater a smooth look, especially around the edges.

Figure 2 shows the bow shape 30, which consists of two sleeve elements 32, 34 and one Longitudinal body 36 is composed. The bow shape 30 is about a longitudinal axis 38 foldable by a predetermined angle, i.e. hinges are provided, which allow the bracket shape 30 to pivot about the axis 38.

In the lower part of the picture a section along the lines AA is shown. The bow shape includes a flat aluminum mold carrier 40 in which a variety of Through holes 42 are embedded, which allow a steam exchange. Foam 44 is coated on both sides of the flat mold carrier 40, via which a temperature-resistant coating material 46 is arranged.

When the bracket shape 30 is in operation, the bracket shape 30 is first about the axis 38 pivoted so far that the sweater effortlessly over the sleeve elements 32 and the body 36 can be put over. Then the bow shape 30 again pivoted back into its overall flat shape so that the sleeve elements 34 and the body 36 completely fill the sweater from the inside. The Temple shape 30 is placed on the table of a press together with the sweater, which has an upper ironing plate. The temple shape 30 with the sweater is printed and steam, which consists of the table top and the upper ironing plate exit. Because of the through holes 42 and the permeability of the covering material 46 and foam 44 there is an effective steam exchange, so that the inside of the sweater is also heat treated.

It should also be noted that for other forms of outerwear the Bow shape 30 can be adjusted in each case. For example, for tank tops the arm elements 32, 34 are omitted. It is also in such a case not necessary to equip the bracket shape with a swivel mechanism.

Claims (12)

1. Method for producing knitwear for outerwear on flat weft knitting machines, comprising the following steps:

   a) provision of new wool,

   b) processing said new wool to form pieces of outerwear by knitting,

   c) pre-ironing said pieces by application of steam,

   d) confectioning,

   e) pressing the confectioned pieces under steam having a predetermined temperature using an ironing form (30) covered by the confectioned piece.
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said new wool used comprises a machine-washable new wool, preferably combed new wool having a wool fibre thickness in the range of 17.5 to 21 µm.
3. Method according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that said new wool comprises pure wool in the range of 90 to 100%, preferably in the range of 95 to 100% and in particular in the rage of 98 to 100%.
4. Method of any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said ironing form (30) has a flat form support (40) provided with a foam material (44) on both sides to which a cover cloth (46) is applied on both sides, the form support (40) preferably having a plurality of through holes (42) for the passage of steam.
5. Method of any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said ironing form (30) is folded about a longitudinal axis (38), the confectioned piece is pulled over said ironing form (30) in said folded arrangement and in that subsequently, the ironing form is unfolded such that said piece covers the unfolded ironing form (30).
6. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that a temperature and steam is applied to both sides of said outerwear provided with said ironing form.
7. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said temperature is in the range of 140 to 190°C, preferably in the range of 150 to 180°C.
8. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the pressing process, the pressure is adjusted such that no shiny portions are produced.
9. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said pre-ironing is effected at a temperature in the range of 140 to 190°C, preferably in the range of 150 to 180°C.
10. Method according to claim 9, characterized in that said pre-ironing is effected by simultaneously applying steam from above and below.
11. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said new wool as a yarn is processed having at least two threads, wherein said yarn preferably has a metric number Nm of 10 to 11 or 13 to 14.
12. Method according to claim 11, characterized in that on flat weft knitting machines the processing takes place at a gauge number of 18 gg to 21 gg, and in that the closeness of stitches for the value Nm of 10 to 11 on an operating surface having a height of 10 cm is 77 to 82 knitted courses, preferably 80,5 courses, and for the value Nm of 13 to 14 is 87 to 94 knitted courses, preferably 91 knitted courses.

Images