EP0810314B1 - Procédé de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant à base de fils texturés - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant à base de fils texturés Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0810314B1
EP0810314B1 EP97490016A EP97490016A EP0810314B1 EP 0810314 B1 EP0810314 B1 EP 0810314B1 EP 97490016 A EP97490016 A EP 97490016A EP 97490016 A EP97490016 A EP 97490016A EP 0810314 B1 EP0810314 B1 EP 0810314B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
treatment
loops
face
interlining
textile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP97490016A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0810314A1 (fr
Inventor
Pierrot Groshens
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Original Assignee
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Publication date
Application filed by Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS filed Critical Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Publication of EP0810314A1 publication Critical patent/EP0810314A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0810314B1 publication Critical patent/EP0810314B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of interlining parts of clothing, in particular fusible interlining according to which a support textile has polymer deposits on one of its faces hot melt. It relates more particularly to a method of treatment of a textile support intended for fusible interlining and made of textured threads, in particular by air jets.
  • the textile supports themselves and on the other hand the nonwovens.
  • the textile supports proper are obtained by weaving or knitting of yarns, while nonwovens are obtained by constitution and consolidation a layer of threads or filaments.
  • a first wire called core wire and a second wire called effect wire enter together in a texturing nozzle, with overfeeding in threads effect greater than that of the core thread.
  • the texturing nozzle has a interior chamber supplied by a compressed air flow capable of causing a swirl effect effecting an entanglement of the constituent filaments soul and effect threads so that it forms loops from the filaments of the effect thread which are inserted and blocked by the filaments of the thread lady.
  • the initial quilting of the wide textile support is generally made by forming successive folds and superimposed. This way of practicing means that it is always the same faces that are facing each other in the folds successive. In other words in a given fold the face of the textile support with the hot melt polymer deposits is opposite and therefore in contact with the face of the adjacent fold also comprising the hot melt polymer deposits. It is of course the same for opposite faces which are opposite and in contact with each other.
  • the fusible interfacing was made from a textile support made of a fabric or knitted fabric weft comprising textured synthetic threads, in particular by air jets, forming prominent loops on the upper side presenting the glue dots and on the opposite underside there could be hanging phenomena during individual part removal fusible interlining on the cut mattress, phenomenon hooking which makes it difficult to grip the parts on the mattress.
  • the goal that the applicant has set is to remove these attachment phenomena when gripping a piece for interlining iron-on from the cut mattress.
  • a textile support for fusible interlining which consists of a fabric or a weft knit comprising textured synthetic yarns, in particular by air jets, forming loops on the upper face intended to receive the glue dots and on the opposite underside.
  • the method of the invention consists in making undergo said textile support, before applying the glue dots, emery treatment or equivalent on the underside and a pretreatment to reduce the height of the loops on the face superior.
  • the pre-treatment to reduce the height of the buckles, on the upper side is a buckling treatment, that is to say a treatment in which the upper face is subjected to the action of a flame formed from a gas supplied ramp, arranged transversely to the movement of the support (see for example FR-A-2 176 941).
  • This buckling results in a localized thermal shock on the surface which has the effect of partially retracting the loops which are subjected to it.
  • the pre-treatment of reduction of the height of the loops, on the upper face consists of heat treatment by radiation or by contact.
  • the emery treatment or equivalent on the face lower that is to say on the face of the textile support which does not include deposition of hot-melt polymer, it has the effect of developing the curls and open the highest loops.
  • the method according to the invention consists in subjecting the textile support first of all a emery treatment or equivalent on the underside and then a buckling pretreatment on the face superior.
  • the interfacing pieces are taken by the operator from a mattress of superimposed parts and cut to the required shape.
  • This mattress is obtained in one operation previous, from the wide-span stabilizer support, which is arranged in the form of successive and superimposed folds, as illustrated in figure 1.
  • each ply 1 has on one of its faces 1 has dots 3 of hot-melt polymer.
  • the face 1 a comprising the polymer dots 3 of a given ply 1 is always facing and in contact with the face 1 a having also 3 points of polymer from the adjacent fold.
  • the same remark must be made with regard to the other face 1 b free of polymer dots, which is always found facing and in contact with the equivalent face 1 b of the adjacent folds.
  • the fusible interlining is made from a support textile which is a weft fabric or knitted fabric made from synthetic threads textured, and in particular from such threads obtained by the technique of texturing by air jets, the applicant noted that there were risks of attachment between the pieces of interlining constituting the cut mattress. This is a major problem when making the garment, when the operator has to take a piece of stabilizer from the mattress. In effect it happens that this part remains partially hooked to the part next which requires additional operator intervention, waste of time and also of poor presentation of the mattress during the next gripping operation.
  • a fusible interfacing 4 which is composed of a fabric or knitting weft whose weft (which is the only one shown in Figure 2) consists of textured synthetic yarns obtained by texturing by air jets. More specifically, these wires 5 comprise at least two multi-filament yarns 6, 7, namely a first yarn called core yarn 6 and a second wire called effect wire 7 which forms loops 8 prominent which extend well beyond the core 6 and which become entangled with the constituent filaments of said core wire 6.
  • the upper face 4 a , in FIG. 2, of the interlining 4 comprises points 9 of hot-melt polymer.
  • loops 8 formed by the effect thread 7 there are loops 10 more prominent than the others on the face 4 a which carries the points 9 of polymer and also on the other face 4 b .
  • the phenomena of attachment between two adjacent pieces of interlining in the cut mattress would come from the interlocking of the loops 8 and in particular of the most prominent loops 10 of the two faces 4 a , 4 b , facing and in contact one from the other, it does not exclude that the presence of the points 9 of hot-melt polymer could also be an aggravating factor with regard to the attachment of two faces 4 a opposite.
  • the textile support 11 prior to the operation of depositing the points 9 of hot-melt polymer on the face 4 a, undergoes a first treatment which consists in emerying the face 4 b which will not receive a point 9 of hot-melt polymer.
  • An emery-making operation consists in subjecting a textile article to the mechanical action of a rough surface of the emery cloth type; this action has the effect of modifying the surface condition of the article.
  • this article includes loops
  • the emery coating develops these loops and goes so far as to open them by freeing the free end of certain loops relative to their imprisonment in the core wire 6, or even cut them.
  • FIG. 3 due to the emery-making of loops 8 ′ which are more open and free ends 11 are obtained.
  • the action of emery is sufficiently heavy so that the face 4b treated in this way has a structure close to a web of staple fibers. It is for example carried out on an emery machine intended for the treatment of the mesh, equipped with multi-cylinders and with a control of the tension.
  • This first treatment of the textile support 13 is followed by a second buckling treatment on the face 4 a intended to receive the points 9 of polymer.
  • the buckling technique consists of subjecting the surface of a textile article to the action of a flame during passage of said article in front of a gas burner bank. Traditionally, this operation is intended to remove the down superficial which is on the surface of fabrics.
  • the intended effect of singeing consists in reducing the height of the protruding loops on the face 4a of the base fabric 11, and in particular the height of the loops 10 the most prominent.
  • the setting of the buckling parameters in particular the speed of movement of the article, height and temperature of the flame, etc., are determined so that at least the most prominent loops 10 in contact with the flame undergo a thermal shock capable of retract them.
  • a face 4 has much more flat, regular and homogeneous in height. This buckling operation does not substantially alter the bulk of the textile support 13 or its other characteristics.
  • buckling must be equipped with precise means of controlling the flame temperature and, preferably, the speed of travel of the support during the buckling must be at least 80 m / min.
  • the textile support thus pretreated can be subjected to a well-known operation, moreover, of deposition of points 9 of hot-melt polymer, so as to obtain the fusible interlining 12 as illustrated in FIG. 5. It can be points obtained from powder or paste or even double points.
  • FIG. 5 we note on the face 12 a having the points 9 of hot-melt polymer loops 8 ", regular and uniform in height, and on the other face 12 b of loops 8 'wide and regular and the free ends 11 of filaments.
  • the search result is obtained, namely that there is more between the opposite faces and in contact of two successive pieces in a cut-out mattress, either the faces 12 a bearing points 9 of polymer or the other faces 12 b , of significant attachment likely to be a limitation for the good grip of the pieces of interlining on the mattress.
  • the treatment emery can be replaced by an equivalent treatment, for example by scraping, that is to say mechanical brushing of the surface of the support using cylinders fitted with curved metal needles.
  • the buckling treatment can also be replaced by a equivalent treatment, in particular by heat treatment either by radiation either by contact.
  • the process of the invention is particularly advantageous in the framework of fusible linings in accordance with the teaching of document EP.578.527. It can however be interesting for others types of interlining, made of textured synthetic threads, which have the attachment phenomenon described above.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
EP97490016A 1996-05-29 1997-05-29 Procédé de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant à base de fils texturés Expired - Lifetime EP0810314B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9606832A FR2749135B1 (fr) 1996-05-29 1996-05-29 Procede de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant a base de fils textures
FR9606832 1996-05-29

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0810314A1 EP0810314A1 (fr) 1997-12-03
EP0810314B1 true EP0810314B1 (fr) 2001-10-17

Family

ID=9492676

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP97490016A Expired - Lifetime EP0810314B1 (fr) 1996-05-29 1997-05-29 Procédé de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant à base de fils texturés

Country Status (19)

Country Link
US (1) US5924179A (ru)
EP (1) EP0810314B1 (ru)
JP (1) JPH1088468A (ru)
KR (1) KR100428062B1 (ru)
CN (1) CN1124093C (ru)
AT (1) ATE207148T1 (ru)
AU (1) AU714857B2 (ru)
CA (1) CA2206378A1 (ru)
CZ (1) CZ293970B6 (ru)
DE (1) DE69707354T2 (ru)
ES (1) ES2167695T3 (ru)
FR (1) FR2749135B1 (ru)
HU (1) HUP9700962A3 (ru)
NO (1) NO310367B1 (ru)
PL (1) PL183533B1 (ru)
PT (1) PT810314E (ru)
RU (1) RU2181250C2 (ru)
TR (1) TR199700443A3 (ru)
UA (1) UA46748C2 (ru)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
UA72498C2 (ru) * 1999-02-03 2005-03-15 Куфнер Текстільверке Гмбх Эластичная прокладка, способ ее изготовления и предмет одежды, в котором она применена
DE19904265C2 (de) * 1999-02-03 2001-02-22 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastische Einlage, Verfahren zu deren Herstellung und Verwendung
KR100879185B1 (ko) * 2002-05-23 2009-01-16 한라공조주식회사 수액기의 건조제 백 제조방법 및 상기 방법에 의해 제조된수액기 건조제 백
DE102007006568A1 (de) 2007-02-09 2008-08-14 Kufner Textil Gmbh Elastische Einlage, Verfahren zu deren Herstellung und Verwendung
US9498003B2 (en) * 2010-09-03 2016-11-22 Trusox Llc Construction of a gripping fabric
CN105386200B (zh) * 2015-10-13 2017-05-24 南通海汇科技发展有限公司 双面起绒漂白树脂衬及其生产方法

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3837051A (en) * 1972-03-21 1974-09-24 Osthoff Fa Walter Apparatus for singeing textile fabrics
KR840002493B1 (ko) * 1982-06-08 1984-12-31 김용원 무선전화기의 녹음기 원격제어장치
KR840002245A (ko) * 1982-11-15 1984-06-25 에이. 엔. 케이. 비이탈라 인체의 자세를 결정하는 근육단련기구
IT1183992B (it) * 1985-12-03 1987-10-22 Gianpiero Quaglino Conglomerato tessile ad uso quale rinforzo nelle confezioni saldabile perimetralmente al tessuto metodo per la sua realizzazione e procedimento di applicazione
JPS6321981A (ja) * 1986-07-11 1988-01-29 日東紡績株式会社 接着芯地およびその製造方法
DE3904003A1 (de) * 1989-02-10 1990-08-16 Sucker & Franz Mueller Gmbh Schmirgelmaschine
JPH03130434A (ja) * 1989-07-13 1991-06-04 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd 芯地
FR2693211B1 (fr) * 1992-07-06 1994-10-14 Picardie Lainiere Support Textile pour entoilage thermocollant comportant en trame des fils texturés par jet d'air.
FR2710078B1 (fr) * 1993-09-17 1995-12-01 Picardie Lainiere Support textile biodégradable, en tricot maille trame, pour entoilage thermocollant.
FR2711151B1 (fr) * 1993-10-11 1996-01-05 Picardie Lainiere Support pour entoilage comportant une nappe de fibres entremêlées dans des fils de trame et son procédé de fabrication.
JP3138906B2 (ja) * 1995-04-27 2001-02-26 日本バイリーン株式会社 接着芯地及びその製造方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE69707354D1 (de) 2001-11-22
ATE207148T1 (de) 2001-11-15
PT810314E (pt) 2002-02-28
CN1170546A (zh) 1998-01-21
CZ293970B6 (cs) 2004-09-15
HUP9700962A2 (hu) 1999-05-28
US5924179A (en) 1999-07-20
HUP9700962A3 (en) 1999-12-28
KR970075028A (ko) 1997-12-10
DE69707354T2 (de) 2002-06-27
RU2181250C2 (ru) 2002-04-20
NO310367B1 (no) 2001-06-25
KR100428062B1 (ko) 2004-07-30
CN1124093C (zh) 2003-10-15
EP0810314A1 (fr) 1997-12-03
ES2167695T3 (es) 2002-05-16
UA46748C2 (uk) 2002-06-17
CA2206378A1 (en) 1997-11-29
FR2749135A1 (fr) 1997-12-05
PL183533B1 (pl) 2002-06-28
NO972430L (no) 1997-12-01
FR2749135B1 (fr) 1998-08-21
NO972430D0 (no) 1997-05-28
HU9700962D0 (en) 1997-07-28
TR199700443A2 (xx) 1997-12-21
AU714857B2 (en) 2000-01-13
TR199700443A3 (tr) 1997-12-21
CZ162897A3 (en) 1997-12-17
JPH1088468A (ja) 1998-04-07
AU2368897A (en) 1997-12-04
PL320102A1 (en) 1997-12-08

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