EP0810314B1 - Method for treating a textile support for thermobondable interlining comprising textured yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

To produce a fusible interlining material, based on a fabric with air-jet texturised yarns giving surface loops on both sides, the thermofusible polymer adhesive points (9) are applied to the fabric (12) after an initial surface grinding on the lower surface (12b) of the material and a reduction in the loop height on the upper fabric surface (12a). Preferably the loop height on the upper surface (12a) of the fabric is reduced by singeing, by radiation or by contact. The lower surface (12b) is ground before the upper surface (12a) loops are reduced by singeing.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of interlining parts of clothing, in particular fusible interlining according to which a support textile has polymer deposits on one of its faces hot melt. It relates more particularly to a method of treatment of a textile support intended for fusible interlining and made of textured threads, in particular by air jets.

Among the supports for fusible interlining, there are on the one hand the textile supports themselves and on the other hand the nonwovens. The textile supports proper are obtained by weaving or knitting of yarns, while nonwovens are obtained by constitution and consolidation a layer of threads or filaments.

For the textile support intended for the interlining, we already have used textured synthetic threads, obtained either by the process of false twist fixed either by the texturing technique by air jets.

According to this particular technique of texturing by air jets, a first wire called core wire and a second wire called effect wire enter together in a texturing nozzle, with overfeeding in threads effect greater than that of the core thread. The texturing nozzle has a interior chamber supplied by a compressed air flow capable of causing a swirl effect effecting an entanglement of the constituent filaments soul and effect threads so that it forms loops from the filaments of the effect thread which are inserted and blocked by the filaments of the thread lady.

The use of this technique to produce a textile support having good covering power, as a nonwoven can, and good volume, is already known from document EP.578.527 (preamble of claim 1) of the applicant.

However, a difficulty appeared during the implementation of a fusible interlining whose textured threads form loops prominent on both sides. This difficulty appears during different operations involved in preparing the stabilizer parts iron-on for making the corresponding clothes. Among these operations, there is in particular the presentation of the textile support in the form of a mattress which consists of the superposition of a plurality of layers constituted by the textile support for fusible interlining, as well as the cutting the mattress thus formed and compacted to obtain a plurality of parts for fusible interfacing of determined shape. This plurality of pieces, remaining in the form of a stacked and compacted mattress, is directed to a subsequent garment station in front of which each piece fusible interlining is removed individually from said mattress.

The initial quilting of the wide textile support is generally made by forming successive folds and superimposed. This way of practicing means that it is always the same faces that are facing each other in the folds successive. In other words in a given fold the face of the textile support with the hot melt polymer deposits is opposite and therefore in contact with the face of the adjacent fold also comprising the hot melt polymer deposits. It is of course the same for opposite faces which are opposite and in contact with each other.

The applicant noted that when the fusible interfacing was made from a textile support made of a fabric or knitted fabric weft comprising textured synthetic threads, in particular by air jets, forming prominent loops on the upper side presenting the glue dots and on the opposite underside there could be hanging phenomena during individual part removal fusible interlining on the cut mattress, phenomenon hooking which makes it difficult to grip the parts on the mattress.

The goal that the applicant has set is to remove these attachment phenomena when gripping a piece for interlining iron-on from the cut mattress.

This object is perfectly achieved by the method of processing a textile support for fusible interlining, which consists of a fabric or a weft knit comprising textured synthetic yarns, in particular by air jets, forming loops on the upper face intended to receive the glue dots and on the opposite underside.

Typically the method of the invention consists in making undergo said textile support, before applying the glue dots, emery treatment or equivalent on the underside and a pretreatment to reduce the height of the loops on the face superior.

These two pre-treatments, performed on each side of the textile backing, before application of hot melt polymer deposits significantly reduce or even eliminate phenomena of attachment between opposite faces in the cut mattress.

The same improvement is noted when the mattress is made by simple superposition, without creases, according to which the face top of a given layer is facing and in contact with the face bottom of an adjacent layer.

Preferably the pre-treatment to reduce the height of the buckles, on the upper side, is a buckling treatment, that is to say a treatment in which the upper face is subjected to the action of a flame formed from a gas supplied ramp, arranged transversely to the movement of the support (see for example FR-A-2 176 941).

This buckling results in a localized thermal shock on the surface which has the effect of partially retracting the loops which are subjected to it.

According to another alternative embodiment, the pre-treatment of reduction of the height of the loops, on the upper face, consists of heat treatment by radiation or by contact.

It is understood that the operating conditions of both the buckling and of the heat treatment must be determined so as to obtain a superficial reduction of the loops on the upper surface without alteration other characteristics of the textile support.

As for the emery treatment or equivalent on the face lower, that is to say on the face of the textile support which does not include deposition of hot-melt polymer, it has the effect of developing the curls and open the highest loops.

Preferably, the method according to the invention consists in subjecting the textile support first of all a emery treatment or equivalent on the underside and then a buckling pretreatment on the face superior.

• La figure 1 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un matelas constitué par la superposition en plis d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant,
• La figure 2 est une représentation en coupe d'un entoilage thermocollant n'ayant pas subi le traitement de l'invention,
• La figure 3 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un support textile dont la trame est constituée de fils texturés par jets d'air après un pré-traitement d'émerisage sur une face ,
• La figure 4 est une représentation schématique en coupe du support textile de la figure 3 après un pré-traitement de flambage sur l'autre face et,
• La figure 5 est un entoilage thermocollant obtenu par dépôt de points de polymère thermofusible sur la face flambée du support textile de la figure 4.

The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment implementing a process for treating a textile support for fusible interlining composed of threads textured by air jets, with a pre buckling treatment on the face intended to receive the points of hot-melt polymer and a pre-treatment of sowing on the other face, illustrated by the appended diagram in which:

• FIG. 1 is a schematic sectional representation of a mattress formed by the superposition in pleats of a textile support for fusible interlining,
• FIG. 2 is a sectional representation of a fusible interfacing which has not undergone the treatment of the invention,
• FIG. 3 is a schematic sectional representation of a textile support, the weft of which is made up of threads textured by air jets after emery treatment on one side,
• FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic representation in section of the textile support of FIG. 3 after a pre-buckling treatment on the other face and,
• FIG. 5 is a fusible interlining obtained by depositing points of hot-melt polymer on the flamed side of the textile support of FIG. 4.

When making clothes, the interfacing pieces are taken by the operator from a mattress of superimposed parts and cut to the required shape. This mattress is obtained in one operation previous, from the wide-span stabilizer support, which is arranged in the form of successive and superimposed folds, as illustrated in figure 1. For a better understanding, we left between each fold 1 a space 2, which of course does not exist in reality.

As this is a fusible interlining, each ply 1 has on one of its faces 1 has dots 3 of hot-melt polymer.

In the example illustrated in FIG. 1, due to the formation by successive folds of the mattress, the face 1 a comprising the polymer dots 3 of a given ply 1 is always facing and in contact with the face 1 a having also 3 points of polymer from the adjacent fold. The same remark must be made with regard to the other face 1 b free of polymer dots, which is always found facing and in contact with the equivalent face 1 b of the adjacent folds.

When the fusible interlining is made from a support textile which is a weft fabric or knitted fabric made from synthetic threads textured, and in particular from such threads obtained by the technique of texturing by air jets, the applicant noted that there were risks of attachment between the pieces of interlining constituting the cut mattress. This is a major problem when making the garment, when the operator has to take a piece of stabilizer from the mattress. In effect it happens that this part remains partially hooked to the part next which requires additional operator intervention, waste of time and also of poor presentation of the mattress during the next gripping operation.

The applicant believes that these snagging phenomena are analogous to those which are voluntarily implemented in mechanical, hook-and-loop fastening systems, known in particular under the name Velcro. In such systems, one obtains a effective attachment between two opposite surfaces, one of which has hook or claw type elements and the other with loops intertwined so that the attachment is done by penetration of the elements like hooks or claws in the loops. According to the applicant, in the case in point, it is not strictly speaking elements of the hook type or claw but the presence of prominent loops on the surface of the support textile from textured synthetic yarns causes entanglement relative loops of superimposed layers during quilting, intermingling which is further accentuated during the cutting operation of the mattress.

In Figure 2, there is illustrated a fusible interfacing 4 which is composed of a fabric or knitting weft whose weft (which is the only one shown in Figure 2) consists of textured synthetic yarns obtained by texturing by air jets. More specifically, these wires 5 comprise at least two multi-filament yarns 6, 7, namely a first yarn called core yarn 6 and a second wire called effect wire 7 which forms loops 8 prominent which extend well beyond the core 6 and which become entangled with the constituent filaments of said core wire 6.

The upper face 4 a , in FIG. 2, of the interlining 4 comprises points 9 of hot-melt polymer.

Among the loops 8 formed by the effect thread 7, there are loops 10 more prominent than the others on the face 4 a which carries the points 9 of polymer and also on the other face 4 b .

According to the applicant, the phenomena of attachment between two adjacent pieces of interlining in the cut mattress would come from the interlocking of the loops 8 and in particular of the most prominent loops 10 of the two faces 4 a , 4 b , facing and in contact one from the other, it does not exclude that the presence of the points 9 of hot-melt polymer could also be an aggravating factor with regard to the attachment of two faces 4 a opposite.

To remedy this drawback, the textile support 11, prior to the operation of depositing the points 9 of hot-melt polymer on the face 4 a, undergoes a first treatment which consists in emerying the face 4 b which will not receive a point 9 of hot-melt polymer. An emery-making operation, well known elsewhere, consists in subjecting a textile article to the mechanical action of a rough surface of the emery cloth type; this action has the effect of modifying the surface condition of the article. In particular when this article includes loops, as in the present case, the emery coating develops these loops and goes so far as to open them by freeing the free end of certain loops relative to their imprisonment in the core wire 6, or even cut them. Thus, as illustrated in FIG. 3, due to the emery-making of loops 8 ′ which are more open and free ends 11 are obtained.

Preferably, the action of emery is sufficiently heavy so that the face 4b treated in this way has a structure close to a web of staple fibers. It is for example carried out on an emery machine intended for the treatment of the mesh, equipped with multi-cylinders and with a control of the tension.

Such a configuration of the face 4b , applied to another face having the same structure, no longer gives rise to gripping forces by interlocking loops, which can be a nuisance when separating two pieces of interlining on a cutting mattress.

This first treatment of the textile support 13 is followed by a second buckling treatment on the face 4 a intended to receive the points 9 of polymer.

The buckling technique, well known elsewhere, consists of subjecting the surface of a textile article to the action of a flame during passage of said article in front of a gas burner bank. Traditionally, this operation is intended to remove the down superficial which is on the surface of fabrics.

In this case, the intended effect of singeing consists in reducing the height of the protruding loops on the face 4a of the base fabric 11, and in particular the height of the loops 10 the most prominent. The setting of the buckling parameters, in particular the speed of movement of the article, height and temperature of the flame, etc., are determined so that at least the most prominent loops 10 in contact with the flame undergo a thermal shock capable of retract them. One thus obtains, as shown in FIG. 4, a face 4 has much more flat, regular and homogeneous in height. This buckling operation does not substantially alter the bulk of the textile support 13 or its other characteristics. In particular it is important that the thermal shock on the face 4a to be sufficiently superficial to not melt too greatly constituent son loops 8, melting would cause a stiffening of the textile support 13.For this installation buckling must be equipped with precise means of controlling the flame temperature and, preferably, the speed of travel of the support during the buckling must be at least 80 m / min.

Once these two treatments have been carried out, the textile support thus pretreated can be subjected to a well-known operation, moreover, of deposition of points 9 of hot-melt polymer, so as to obtain the fusible interlining 12 as illustrated in FIG. 5. It can be points obtained from powder or paste or even double points. In FIG. 5, we note on the face 12 a having the points 9 of hot-melt polymer loops 8 ", regular and uniform in height, and on the other face 12 b of loops 8 'wide and regular and the free ends 11 of filaments.

According to the Applicant, in this structure, the search result is obtained, namely that there is more between the opposite faces and in contact of two successive pieces in a cut-out mattress, either the faces 12 a bearing points 9 of polymer or the other faces 12 b , of significant attachment likely to be a limitation for the good grip of the pieces of interlining on the mattress.

The present invention is not limited to the embodiment which has just been described by way of non-exhaustive example. In particular the treatment emery can be replaced by an equivalent treatment, for example by scraping, that is to say mechanical brushing of the surface of the support using cylinders fitted with curved metal needles. Through elsewhere the buckling treatment can also be replaced by a equivalent treatment, in particular by heat treatment either by radiation either by contact.

the process of the invention is particularly advantageous in the framework of fusible linings in accordance with the teaching of document EP.578.527. It can however be interesting for others types of interlining, made of textured synthetic threads, which have the attachment phenomenon described above.

Claims (4)

1. A method of treating a textile base material for thermobonding interlining, the material being constituted by a woven fabric or a weft knit that includes texturized synthetic threads, in particular air jet texturized threads, which threads form loops on a top face that is to receive spots of glue, and on an opposite, bottom face, the method being characterized in that it consists in subjecting said textile base material (13, 12) prior to applying spots of glue (9) thereto, to emerizing or equivalent pre-treatment on its bottom face (12b), and to pre-treatment on its top face (12a) for reducing the height of the loops.
2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pre-treatment for reducing the height of the loops on the top face (12a) is a singeing treatment.
3. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pre-treatment of reducing the height of the loops on the top face (12a) consists in heat treatment by radiation or by contact.
4. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists in subjecting the textile base material initially to emerizing or equivalent pre-treatment on the bottom face (12b) and then to singeing pre-treatment on the top face (12a).

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