EP0481867B1 - Woven or weft knitted textile support for fusible interlining - Google Patents

Woven or weft knitted textile support for fusible interlining Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0481867B1
EP0481867B1 EP91402738A EP91402738A EP0481867B1 EP 0481867 B1 EP0481867 B1 EP 0481867B1 EP 91402738 A EP91402738 A EP 91402738A EP 91402738 A EP91402738 A EP 91402738A EP 0481867 B1 EP0481867 B1 EP 0481867B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weft
yarns
dtex
woven
filaments
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP91402738A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0481867B2 (en
EP0481867A1 (en
Inventor
Pierre Groshens
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
CHARGETEX 16
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Original Assignee
Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Application filed by Lainiere de Picardie SA, Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS filed Critical Lainiere de Picardie SA
Publication of EP0481867A1 publication Critical patent/EP0481867A1/en
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H5/00—Non woven fabrics formed of mixtures of relatively short fibres and yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length
    • D04H5/06—Non woven fabrics formed of mixtures of relatively short fibres and yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length strengthened or consolidated by welding-together thermoplastic fibres, filaments, or yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/06—Details of garments
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/2481—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/2481—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
    • Y10T428/24818—Knitted, with particular or differential bond sites or intersections
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24826—Spot bonds connect components

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile support intended for the interlining of a piece of clothing, in particular intended to constitute a fusible interlining by deposition of hot-melt polymer.
  • the supports for fusible interlining there are two categories: the textile supports themselves and the non-wovens.
  • the actual textile supports are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constituting and consolidating a sheet of fibers or filaments.
  • nonwovens as a stabilizer support has advantages, in particular as regards manufacturing costs. However, it has drawbacks due to their mode of production. Since the fibers or filaments are deposited in the form of a sheet without there being any precise control of the direction taken by the fibers or filaments over the entire width of the sheet, it follows that the nonwoven has density differences and surface irregularities. In addition, due to this irregular distribution in the direction of the fibers or filaments, the nonwoven has insufficient dimensional stability: it can be irreversibly deformed under the effect of an extension, which causes in the case of 'a stabilizer, poor stabilization of the piece of clothing on which said nonwoven has been heat sealed.
  • the deposits of hot-melt polymer do not penetrate inside the interlining support, such penetration having the effect of locally stiffening the support and consequently the part d 'clothing. It is understood that, for equal weight, the diffusion of the given polymer is made all the less easily when the surface of the support on which the polymer is deposited is closed, that is to say there is a reduced spacing between the different fibers or filaments which constitute the support. Structurally, for the same weight, the nonwoven has a much more closed surface than the textile support.
  • the aim that the applicant has set is to propose a textile support for fusible interlining which has the technical advantages of both nonwovens and textile supports without having the disadvantages.
  • the support for interlining which is sought must have a controlled stability, while retaining sufficient elasticity and resilience, and must not be crossed by the hot-melt polymer during the deposition thereof or the application of the interfacing on the piece of clothing.
  • This object is perfectly achieved by the support for fusible interlining according to the invention.
  • This support is of the textile support type in that it consists of a fabric or weft knit. Typically, at least the weft of the fabric or weft knit is made of synthetic yarns composed of fine filaments having a count less than 1.3 decitex.
  • the weft threads in question are textured threads.
  • the crimp provided by the texturing gives the weft yarn, in the interlining support, a greater volume and bulk, compared to the continuous filament yarns, which further increases the barrier effect vis-à-vis of hot-melt polymer and which improves the flexibility of the support.
  • the use of textured threads makes it possible to adjust the elasticity and the resilience of the support.
  • the surface of the support is very regular, which has the additional advantage of facilitating the deposition of the hot-melt polymer whatever the process used.
  • the density of warp threads is much lower than the density of weft threads.
  • the warp threads only intervene to bind the weft threads, and the surface appearance and the volume of the textile support are imparted almost exclusively by the weft threads of titration less than 1.3 dtex, to know a uniform and smooth surface and very good coverage, particularly suitable for printing hot melt products, in the form of powder or paste. It has been found that it was possible to produce finer prints on the supports thus formed according to the invention, with much higher point densities, for example of 200 points per square centimeter, which is practically impossible on supports of the same type comprising titration filaments greater than 1.3dtex.
  • the textile support for interlining is a knitted or woven mesh, from 15 to 100 g / m 2 , produced on knitting looms of the warp or Rachel type with weft insertion.
  • a thread called weft thread by analogy with weaving is introduced regularly through the stitches across the width of the knitting.
  • the weft yarn is a textured polyester yarn from 35 to 500 dtex.
  • Each of the filaments or strands constituting said thread has a titration of the order of 1 dtex. These fine filaments will be referred to below as microfilaments.
  • the constituent yarns of the knitted fabrics are polyester or textured polyamide yarns or flat yarns of 22 to 50 dtex, the filaments of which have a count of 0.5 to 4dtex.
  • the knitted fabric thus treated has a face whose external surface is mainly composed of the weft threads and therefore of the microfilaments.
  • thermoplastic copolyester On this face is deposited a hot-melt polymer.
  • the choice of polymer and the process for depositing this polymer on the face of the textile support are not characteristic of the present invention. It may especially be a copolyamide and / or a thermoplastic copolyester and / or chemical derivatives of one or both of them, alone or in combination with other thermoplastic copolymers.
  • thermobonding material in aqueous dispersion its application to the textile support of the invention is carried out, for example, by printing of the screen printing type on the rotary frame.
  • the deposition of the hot-melt polymer on the textile support of the invention can also be carried out in two stages, in particular according to the teaching of document EP.0219378, namely firstly deposition of the hot-melt polymer on a non-stick support by printing either of the serigraphic type or cylinder engraved in hollow then in a second time transfer of the polymer, after melting of the latter, on the textile support.
  • the hot-melt polymer remains practically on the surface of the knit, this is that is to say that its penetration was limited to the first surface micro-filaments of the threads constituting the weft, a condition necessary for there to be an anchoring of the deposition points on the support and sufficient for there to be no of localized hardening of the support or of course of crossing of the interlining by the polymer during the constitution of the garment.
  • the fusible interfacing obtained has very great flexibility and a very regular surface. It has a perfectly controlled stability, while keeping an elasticity and a resilience adapted to its different applications.
  • the textile support for fusible interlining may consist exclusively of synthetic threads composed of microfilaments of less than 1.3 dtex.
  • the invention finds its application in articles of the satin type in which one of the two faces comprises floats which are made of synthetic threads composed of fine filaments having a titration of less than 1.3 dtex, and which give said articles a surface well covered.
  • It may be either woven articles proper, or knitted articles with a double ply wefted mesh, that is to say comprising a knitted ply with a microfilament weft, linked by the knit weave, in which straight threads are inserted, parallel to the mesh columns, which give this double tablecloth an effect of woven satin.
  • Articles of this type are described, for example, in document FR.A.2.620.138: preferably the screened threads are made of textured polyester with a titration of less than 1.3 dtex.

Abstract

The textile support for fusible interlining consists of a woven fabric or of a woven-mesh knitted fabric. According to the invention, at least the weft of the woven or weft-knitted fabric is made from synthetic yarns, for example of 35 to 500 dtex composed of fine filaments of less than 1.3 dtex. These weft yarns are preferably textured. <??>The fusible interlining consists of the above-mentioned woven or weft-knitted fabric, on one face of which spots of heat-fusible polymer have been deposited.

Description

La présente invention concerne un support textile destiné à l'entoilage de pièce d'habillement, en particulier destiné à constituer un entoilage thermocollant par dépôt de polymère thermofusible.The present invention relates to a textile support intended for the interlining of a piece of clothing, in particular intended to constitute a fusible interlining by deposition of hot-melt polymer.

Un tel support textile est décrit dans le FR-A-2 620 138 (cf EP-A-0 289 378) qui représente le préambule des revendications indépendantes 1 et 5.Such a textile support is described in FR-A-2 620 138 (cf. EP-A-0 289 378) which represents the preamble of independent claims 1 and 5.

Parmi les supports pour entoilage thermocollant on distingue deux catégories : les supports textiles proprement dits et les non-tissés. Les supports textiles proprement dits sont obtenus par tissage ou tricotage de fils, tandis que les non-tissés sont obtenus par constitution et consolidation d'une nappe de fibres ou de filaments.Among the supports for fusible interlining there are two categories: the textile supports themselves and the non-wovens. The actual textile supports are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constituting and consolidating a sheet of fibers or filaments.

L'utilisation des non-tissés comme support d'entoilage présente des avantages, en particulier quant aux coûts de fabrication. Cependant elle présente des inconvénients dus à leur mode de production. Etant donné que les fibres ou filaments sont déposés sous forme d'une nappe sans qu'il puisse y avoir un contrôle précis de la direction prise par les fibres ou filaments sur toute la largeur de la nappe, il en résulte que le non-tissé présente des écarts de densité et des irrégularités de surface. De plus du fait de cette répartition irrégulière, en direction, des fibres ou filaments , le non-tissé présente une stabilité dimensionnelle insuffisante : il peut être déformé de manière irréversible sous l'effet d'une extension, ce qui occasionne dans le cas d'un entoilage , une mauvaise stabilisation de la pièce d'habillement sur laquelle ledit non-tissé a été thermocollé.The use of nonwovens as a stabilizer support has advantages, in particular as regards manufacturing costs. However, it has drawbacks due to their mode of production. Since the fibers or filaments are deposited in the form of a sheet without there being any precise control of the direction taken by the fibers or filaments over the entire width of the sheet, it follows that the nonwoven has density differences and surface irregularities. In addition, due to this irregular distribution in the direction of the fibers or filaments, the nonwoven has insufficient dimensional stability: it can be irreversibly deformed under the effect of an extension, which causes in the case of 'a stabilizer, poor stabilization of the piece of clothing on which said nonwoven has been heat sealed.

Malgré leur prix plus élevé, les supports textiles proprement dits sont préférés dans les applications où les inconvénients précités des non-tissés sont rédhibitoires. Le mode de réalisation, par tissage ou tricotage , de ces supports textiles leur confère l'homogénéité , en particulier directionnelle, qui fait défaut aux non-tissés.Despite their higher price, the textile supports themselves are preferred in applications where the aforementioned drawbacks of nonwovens are prohibitive. The embodiment, by weaving or knitting, of these textile supports gives them homogeneity, in particular directional, which is lacking in nonwovens.

Dans le domaine de l'entoilage thermocollant, on cherche également à ce que les dépôts de polymère thermofusible ne pénètrent pas à l'intérieur du support d'entoilage, une telle pénétration ayant pour effet de rigidifier localement le support et par conséquent la pièce d'habillement. On comprend qu'à poids égal la diffusion du polymère donné se fait d'autant moins facilement que la surface du support sur laquelle est déposé le polymère est fermée c'est-à-dire qu'il y a un espacement réduit entre les différentes fibres ou filaments qui constituent le support. Structurellement , à poids égal le non-tissé a une surface beaucoup plus fermée que le support textile.In the field of fusible interlining, it is also sought so that the deposits of hot-melt polymer do not penetrate inside the interlining support, such penetration having the effect of locally stiffening the support and consequently the part d 'clothing. It is understood that, for equal weight, the diffusion of the given polymer is made all the less easily when the surface of the support on which the polymer is deposited is closed, that is to say there is a reduced spacing between the different fibers or filaments which constitute the support. Structurally, for the same weight, the nonwoven has a much more closed surface than the textile support.

Le but que s'est fixé le demandeur est de proposer un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant qui présente les avantages techniques à la fois des non-tissés et des supports textiles sans en présenter les inconvénients. En particulier le support pour entoilage qui est recherché doit avoir une stabilité contrôlée, tout en conservant une élasticité et une résilience suffisantes , et ne doit pas être traversé par le polymère thermofusible lors du dépôt de celui-ci ou de l'application de l'entoilage sur la pièce d'habillement.The aim that the applicant has set is to propose a textile support for fusible interlining which has the technical advantages of both nonwovens and textile supports without having the disadvantages. In particular the support for interlining which is sought must have a controlled stability, while retaining sufficient elasticity and resilience, and must not be crossed by the hot-melt polymer during the deposition thereof or the application of the interfacing on the piece of clothing.

Ce but est parfaitement atteint par le support pour entoilage thermocollant selon l'invention. Ce support est du type support textile en ce qu'il est constitué d'un tissu ou d'un tricot trame. De manière caractéristique , au moins la trame du tissu ou du tricot trame est en fils synthétiques composés de filaments fins ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3 décitex.This object is perfectly achieved by the support for fusible interlining according to the invention. This support is of the textile support type in that it consists of a fabric or weft knit. Typically, at least the weft of the fabric or weft knit is made of synthetic yarns composed of fine filaments having a count less than 1.3 decitex.

Le fait d'utiliser des fils composés de filaments fins confère à la trame, qui sera en contact avec le polymère thermofusible, une densité de filaments plus importante à poids égal , ces filaments restant cependant dans une orientation donnée. Ainsi cette disposition particulière permet d'obtenir une surface relativement fermée sans que cela soit au détriment des caractéristiques de stabilité, d'élasticité et de résilience. De manière inattendue , il a été constaté que la non-pénétration par les polymères thermofusibles , usuels dans l'entoilage thermocollant, était obtenue pour des fils en trame composés de filaments ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex.The fact of using yarns composed of fine filaments gives the weft, which will be in contact with the hot-melt polymer, a higher density of filaments at equal weight, these filaments remaining in a given orientation. Thus this particular arrangement makes it possible to obtain a relatively closed surface without this being to the detriment of the characteristics of stability, elasticity and resilience. Unexpectedly, it was found that non-penetration by the hot-melt polymers, customary in the fusible interlining, was obtained for weft threads composed of filaments having a titration of less than 1.3 dtex.

De préférence les fils en trame en question sont des fils texturés. En effet la frisure apportée par la texturation donne au fil de trame , dans le support d'entoilage, un volume, un gonflant plus important , comparativement aux fils de filaments continus, ce qui accroît encore l'effet de barrière vis-à-vis du polymère thermofusible et ce qui améliore la souplesse du support. Par ailleurs, et de manière connue, l'utilisation de fils texturés permet d'ajuster l'élasticité et la résilience du support.Preferably the weft threads in question are textured threads. Indeed, the crimp provided by the texturing gives the weft yarn, in the interlining support, a greater volume and bulk, compared to the continuous filament yarns, which further increases the barrier effect vis-à-vis of hot-melt polymer and which improves the flexibility of the support. Furthermore, and in a known manner, the use of textured threads makes it possible to adjust the elasticity and the resilience of the support.

Certes l'utilisation de fils synthétiques composés de filaments notamment texturés était déjà usitée dans le domaine de l'entoilage thermocollant, mais les supports correspondants présentaient les inconvénients relevés précédemment. Le mérite en revient au demandeur d'avoir pensé et vérifié que l'utilisation d'un type de fils synthétiques particulier, ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex, pouvait pallier ces inconvénients tout en conservant les avantages des supports textiles traditionnels.Admittedly, the use of synthetic yarns composed of filaments in particular textured was already used in the field of fusible interfacing, but the corresponding supports had the drawbacks noted above. The credit goes to the applicant for having thought and verified that the use of a particular type of synthetic yarn, with a titration of less than 1.3 dtex, could overcome these drawbacks while retaining the advantages of traditional textile supports.

Bien plus , en raison de la finesse des filaments, constitutifs des fils de trame, la surface du support est très régulière , ce qui a comme avantage supplémentaire de faciliter le dépôt du polymère thermofusible quel que soit le procédé employé.Furthermore, due to the fineness of the filaments, which constitute the weft threads, the surface of the support is very regular, which has the additional advantage of facilitating the deposition of the hot-melt polymer whatever the process used.

Enfin il a été constaté que l'utilisation de fils ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3 dtex présentait un avantage tout-à-fait inattendu pour la découpe desdits supports sous forme de matelas. En effet on remarque parfois que les différentes couches du matelas découpé adhèrent les unes aux autres, ce qui entraîne des difficultés de séparation de ces couches en confection. On peut expliquer ce phénomène d'adhérence par l'accrochage des extrémités des filaments coupés de deux couches adjacentes, cet accrochage étant accentué dans le cas de fils texturés. Or on a pu constater que le support textile selon l'invention d'une part était plus facile à découper du fait du titrage plus fin et d'autre part ne présentait pas , une fois la découpe en matelas réalisée, le phénomène d'adhérence précité. Il semble que les filaments de titrage inférieur à 1,3 dtex se sectionnent mieux et même se cassent sous l'effet de la force mécanique dans le cas où l'outil de coupe n'est pas parfaitement affûté et que de plus , lesdits filaments étant plus souples, l'accrochage de filaments de deux couches adjacentes est pratiquement inexistant.Finally, it has been observed that the use of wires having a titration of less than 1.3 dtex presents an entirely unexpected advantage for cutting the said supports in the form of mattresses. Indeed it is sometimes noted that the different layers of the cut mattress adhere to each other, which causes difficulties in separating these layers in preparation. This adhesion phenomenon can be explained by the attachment of the ends of the filaments cut from two adjacent layers, this attachment being accentuated in the case of textured yarns. However, it has been observed that the textile support according to the invention on the one hand was easier to cut due to the finer titration and on the other hand did not exhibit, once the mattress cutting was carried out, the adhesion phenomenon cited above. It seems that the titration filaments less than 1.3 dtex cut better and even break under the effect of mechanical force in the case where the cutting tool is not perfectly sharpened and that, in addition, said filaments being more flexible, the attachment of filaments of two adjacent layers is practically non-existent.

C'est un autre objet de l'invention que de protéger un entoilage thermocollant constitué d'un tissu ou d'un tricot trame dont au moins la trame est en fils synthétiques composés de filaments fins ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex, et sur une face duquel ont été déposés des points de polymère thermofusible.It is another object of the invention to protect a fusible interlining consisting of a fabric or a weft knit of which at least the weft is made of synthetic threads composed of fine filaments having a titration of less than 1.3 dtex, and on one side of which points of hot-melt polymer have been deposited.

De préférence la densité de fils de chaîne est nettement inférieure à la densité de fils de trame. Dans un tel cas, les fils de chaîne n'interviennent que pour lier les fils de trame, et l'aspect de surface et le volume du support textile sont conférés presque exclusivement par les fils de trame de titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex, à savoir une surface uniforme et lisse et une très bonne couverture, particulièrement propice à l'impression des produits thermofusibles, sous forme de poudre ou de pâte. Il a été constaté qu'il était possible de réaliser sur les supports ainsi constitués selon l'invention des impressions plus fines , avec des densités de points beaucoup plus importantes, par exemple de 200 points au centimètre carré, ce qui est pratiquement impossible sur des supports de même type comportant des filaments de titrage supérieur à 1,3dtex.Preferably the density of warp threads is much lower than the density of weft threads. In such a case, the warp threads only intervene to bind the weft threads, and the surface appearance and the volume of the textile support are imparted almost exclusively by the weft threads of titration less than 1.3 dtex, to know a uniform and smooth surface and very good coverage, particularly suitable for printing hot melt products, in the form of powder or paste. It has been found that it was possible to produce finer prints on the supports thus formed according to the invention, with much higher point densities, for example of 200 points per square centimeter, which is practically impossible on supports of the same type comprising titration filaments greater than 1.3dtex.

D'autres modes particulièrs de réalisation selon l'invention sont indiqués dans les revendications 3 et 4Other particular embodiments according to the invention are indicated in claims 3 and 4

D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront plus clairement à la lecture de la description qui va être faite d'un exemple de réalisation d'un entoilage thermocollant à base de microfilaments.Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment of a fusible interlining based on microfilaments.

Le support textile pour entoilage est un tricot ou maille tramée, de 15 à 100g/m2 , réalisé sur des métiers à tricoter du type chaîne ou Rachel à insertion de trame. Dans ce tricot , un fil appelé fil de trame par analogie avec le tissage est introduit régulièrement à travers les mailles dans la largeur du tricot.The textile support for interlining is a knitted or woven mesh, from 15 to 100 g / m 2 , produced on knitting looms of the warp or Rachel type with weft insertion. In this knitting, a thread called weft thread by analogy with weaving is introduced regularly through the stitches across the width of the knitting.

Le fil de trame est un fil de polyester texturé de 35 à 500 dtex. Chacun des filaments ou brins , constituant ledit fil , a un titrage de l'ordre de 1 dtex. Ces filaments fins seront dénommés ci-après microfilaments . Les fils constitutifs des mailles du tricot sont des fils de polyester ou de polyamide texturé ou des fils plats de 22 à 50 dtex, dont les filaments ont un titrage de 0,5 à 4dtex.The weft yarn is a textured polyester yarn from 35 to 500 dtex. Each of the filaments or strands constituting said thread has a titration of the order of 1 dtex. These fine filaments will be referred to below as microfilaments. The constituent yarns of the knitted fabrics are polyester or textured polyamide yarns or flat yarns of 22 to 50 dtex, the filaments of which have a count of 0.5 to 4dtex.

Après tricotage le tricot trame subit un traitement thermique de rétraction.After knitting the weft knitting is subjected to a heat shrinkage treatment.

Le tricot ainsi traité présente une face dont la surface externe est principalement composée des fils de trame et donc des microfilaments.The knitted fabric thus treated has a face whose external surface is mainly composed of the weft threads and therefore of the microfilaments.

Sur cette face est déposé un polymère thermofusible. Le choix du polymère et le procédé pour effectuer le dépôt de ce polymère sur la face du support textile ne sont pas caractéristiques de la présente invention. Il peut s'agir notamment de copolyamide et/ou de copolyester thermoplastique et/ou de dérivés chimiques de l'un d'eux ou des deux, seuls ou en combinaison avec d'autres copolymères thermoplastiques.On this face is deposited a hot-melt polymer. The choice of polymer and the process for depositing this polymer on the face of the textile support are not characteristic of the present invention. It may especially be a copolyamide and / or a thermoplastic copolyester and / or chemical derivatives of one or both of them, alone or in combination with other thermoplastic copolymers.

S'agissant d'une matière thermocollante en dispersion aqueuse, son application sur le support textile de l'invention est réalisée par exemple par impression du type sérigraphique au cadre rotatif.As this is a thermobonding material in aqueous dispersion, its application to the textile support of the invention is carried out, for example, by printing of the screen printing type on the rotary frame.

S'agissant d'une matière thermocollante en poudre, son application sur le support textile est réalisée par exemple à l'aide de cylindres gravés en creux soit sous forme d'amas de poudre qui sont ultérieurement chauffés soit directement sous forme de points de polymères fondus. Dans ce dernier cas, le cylindre gravé est chauffé à une température supérieure à 120°C.As this is a powdered fusible material, its application to the textile support is carried out for example using cylinders engraved in the hollow either in the form of heaps of powder which are subsequently heated or directly in the form of polymer dots melted. In the latter case, the engraved cylinder is heated to a temperature above 120 ° C.

Le dépôt du polymère thermofusible sur le support textile de l'invention peut aussi être réalisé en deux temps notamment selon l'enseignement du document EP.0219378, à savoir dans un premier temps dépôt du polymère thermofusible sur un support anti-adhérent par impression soit du type sérigraphique soit cylindre gravé en creux puis dans un deuxième temps transfert du polymère , après mise en fusion de celui-ci , sur le support textile.The deposition of the hot-melt polymer on the textile support of the invention can also be carried out in two stages, in particular according to the teaching of document EP.0219378, namely firstly deposition of the hot-melt polymer on a non-stick support by printing either of the serigraphic type or cylinder engraved in hollow then in a second time transfer of the polymer, after melting of the latter, on the textile support.

Quel que soit le procédé mis en oeuvre pour réaliser l'application du polymère thermofusible sur le tricot trame décrit ci-dessus, il a été constaté que , dans les conditions opératoires normales, le polymère thermofusible restait pratiquement en surface du tricot , c'est-à-dire que sa pénétration se limitait aux premiers micro-filaments superficiels des fils constitutifs de la trame , condition nécessaire pour qu'il y ait un ancrage des points de dépôt sur le support et suffisante pour qu'il n'y ait pas de durcissement localisé du support ni bien sûr de traversement de l'entoilage par le polymère lors de la constitution du vêtement.Whatever the process used to apply the hot-melt polymer to the weft knit described above, it has been found that, under normal operating conditions, the hot-melt polymer remains practically on the surface of the knit, this is that is to say that its penetration was limited to the first surface micro-filaments of the threads constituting the weft, a condition necessary for there to be an anchoring of the deposition points on the support and sufficient for there to be no of localized hardening of the support or of course of crossing of the interlining by the polymer during the constitution of the garment.

L'entoilage thermocollant obtenu présente une très grande souplesse et une surface très régulière. Il a une stabilité parfaitement contrôlée , tout en gardant une élasticité et une résilience adaptées à ses différentes applications.The fusible interfacing obtained has very great flexibility and a very regular surface. It has a perfectly controlled stability, while keeping an elasticity and a resilience adapted to its different applications.

L'invention n'est pas limitée au mode de réalisation qui a été décrit à titre d'exemple non exhaustif , mais en couvre toutes les variantes. En particulier le support textile pour entoilage thermocollant peut être constitué exclusivement de fils synthétiques composés de microfilaments de moins de 1,3dtex.The invention is not limited to the embodiment which has been described by way of non-exhaustive example, but covers all variants thereof. In particular, the textile support for fusible interlining may consist exclusively of synthetic threads composed of microfilaments of less than 1.3 dtex.

En particulier l'invention trouve son application dans des articles du type satin dans lesquels une des deux faces comporte des flottés qui sont en fils synthétiques composés de filaments fins ayant un titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex, et qui donnent aux- dits articles une surface bien couverte. Il peut s'agir soit d'articles tissés proprement dits, soit d'articles tricotés à maille tramée double nappe, c'est-à-dire comportant une nappe tricotée avec une trame en microfilaments, liée par l'armure maille, dans laquelle sont insérés des fils droits, parallèles aux colonnes de mailles, qui donnent à cet article double nappe un effet de satin tissé. Des articles de ce type sont décrits par exemple dans le document FR.A.2.620.138 : de préférence les fils tramés sont en polyester texturés de titrage inférieur à 1,3dtex.In particular, the invention finds its application in articles of the satin type in which one of the two faces comprises floats which are made of synthetic threads composed of fine filaments having a titration of less than 1.3 dtex, and which give said articles a surface well covered. It may be either woven articles proper, or knitted articles with a double ply wefted mesh, that is to say comprising a knitted ply with a microfilament weft, linked by the knit weave, in which straight threads are inserted, parallel to the mesh columns, which give this double tablecloth an effect of woven satin. Articles of this type are described, for example, in document FR.A.2.620.138: preferably the screened threads are made of textured polyester with a titration of less than 1.3 dtex.

Claims (5)

1. Textile base material for thermobonding interlining, constituted of a woven fabric or of a weft knit, characterized in that at least the weft of the woven fabric or of the weft knit is in synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count less than 1.3 dtex.
2. Base material according to claim 1, characterized in that the weft yarns are textured yarns.
3. Base material according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is constituted of a weft knit of which the weft is in yarns of polyester of 35 to 500 dtex, composed of microfilaments of about 1 dtex.
4. Base material according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the density of the warp yarns is considerably lower than the density of the weft yarns.
5. Thermobinding interlining constituted of a woven fabric or of a weft knit on one face of which dots of thermofusible polymers have been deposited, characterized in that at least the weft of the woven fabric or of the weft knit is made of synthetic yarns composed of thin filaments having a count less than 1.3 dtex.
EP91402738A 1990-10-17 1991-10-14 Woven or weft knitted textile support for fusible interlining Expired - Lifetime EP0481867B2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9013134A FR2668177B1 (en) 1990-10-17 1990-10-17 TEXTILE, WOVEN OR KNITTED FABRIC SUPPORT, FOR THERMAL STICKING.
FR9013134 1990-10-17

Publications (3)

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EP0481867A1 EP0481867A1 (en) 1992-04-22
EP0481867B1 true EP0481867B1 (en) 1995-01-11
EP0481867B2 EP0481867B2 (en) 2000-02-02

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EP (1) EP0481867B2 (en)
JP (1) JP2912747B2 (en)
KR (1) KR0182309B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE116816T1 (en)
CA (1) CA2052567C (en)
DE (1) DE69106661T3 (en)
DK (1) DK0481867T4 (en)
ES (1) ES2069849T5 (en)
FI (1) FI94879C (en)
FR (1) FR2668177B1 (en)
GR (2) GR3015687T3 (en)
PT (1) PT99229B (en)
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DE69106661D1 (en) 1995-02-23
KR920008244A (en) 1992-05-27
KR0182309B1 (en) 1999-05-01
ATE116816T1 (en) 1995-01-15
FI94879B (en) 1995-07-31
EP0481867B2 (en) 2000-02-02
FR2668177B1 (en) 1994-06-03
GR3033270T3 (en) 2000-09-29
FI914858A0 (en) 1991-10-15
DE69106661T3 (en) 2001-08-09
PT99229B (en) 2001-05-31
US5153049A (en) 1992-10-06
JPH0693569A (en) 1994-04-05
FI94879C (en) 1995-11-10
GR3015687T3 (en) 1995-07-31
FR2668177A1 (en) 1992-04-24
EP0481867A1 (en) 1992-04-22
CA2052567C (en) 1995-08-15
DK0481867T4 (en) 2000-06-19
DE69106661T2 (en) 1995-05-18
ES2069849T3 (en) 1995-05-16
ES2069849T5 (en) 2000-06-16
FI914858A (en) 1992-04-18
DK0481867T3 (en) 1995-03-20
PT99229A (en) 1993-11-30
JP2912747B2 (en) 1999-06-28
TR26642A (en) 1995-03-15

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