EP0407247B1 - Textile for stiffening - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a textile for stiffening. It comprises two textile layers (1, 2). According to the invention, the textile layers (1, 2) are joined to each other by an adhesive composed of hot-sprayed crosslinkable polymers. <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a textile for interlining.

It relates more particularly to textiles intended for the interlining of the fronts of clothing, collars of blouses and shirts, plastrons, co-plastrons, reinforcements of plastrons or cover plates.

These products are intended to give the textiles or draperies on which they are fixed and clothing the touch, flexibility, nervousness that they do not have by themselves.

There are already known textiles intended for interlining incorporating a layer of nonwoven fabric. For example, according to patent FR-A-2 223 496, it is proposed to produce a veil comprising at least one layer of non-woven and non-oriented fibers and at least one additional layer having a high degree of orientation. These layers are sewn together by synthetic threads and their coating for the production of a fusible product is envisaged.

The technique of hot spraying an adhesive composed of crosslinkable polymers is also known. This "hot-melt" technique allows the bonding by fusion of textiles.

The object of the present invention is the production of a textile intended for interlining consisting of several textile layers, the properties of the complex being able to be determined by the choice of the properties of each of the layers.

It is still to propose a new product comprising two knitted, woven or nonwoven textile layers, the manufacture of which can be reliable, relatively simple and inexpensive.

To this end, the invention relates to a textile intended for interlining of the type comprising two knitted, woven or nonwoven textile layers.

According to the invention, the nonwoven textile layer (s) are joined to each other by an adhesive composed of crosslinkable polymers sprayed hot.

• La figure 1 est une vue en coupe du textile destiné à l'entoilage selon l'invention.
• La figure 2 est une représentation schématique de la fabrication du textile de l'invention.

The invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

• Figure 1 is a sectional view of the fabric for the interlining according to the invention.
• Figure 2 is a schematic representation of the manufacture of the textile of the invention.

The textile intended for the interlining comprises two textile layers 1, 2. It may optionally include a thermoadhesive coating layer 3.

In a preferred embodiment, the first textile layer 1 is knitted or woven. It constitutes a textile support. The second layer 2 is a non-woven sheet.

The textile support 1 is of the same type as the fabrics usually used in the field of interlining. It can be made with synthetic fibers, for example polyesters or polyamides or even with natural or artificial fibers.

This support is woven or preferably knitted. It can then include a frame. The texture and the titration of the threads which compose it are adapted so as to give it the qualities of nervousness, flexibility, elasticity, resistance which contribute to the properties of the textile intended for the interlining which incorporates them.

The nonwoven sheet (s) 2 are made of synthetic, artificial or natural fibers, carded, oriented or not, chosen as a function of the volume and the feel of the textile complex that one seeks to produce. The fiber titration can vary from 0.3 decitex for the production of light interlining up to 10 to 15 decitex for the production of heavy interlining, for example intended for breastplates.

The nonwoven sheet (s) 2 can be obtained by direct "spun" spinning or by "melt-blown" blown melt. This ply may be partially needled, it may also undergo thermal bonding or any other form of bonding.

The nonwoven sheet (s) 2 are joined to the knitted or woven textile support 1 by an adhesive 4 composed of crosslinkable polymers sprayed hot.

In themselves, many adhesives composed of crosslinkable polymers are known in the textile field as being able to be sprayed while hot. In particular, they can be polyurethanes, polyamides or polyesters. Preferably, polymers will be used whose crosslinking takes place in contact with the ambient medium, for example under the effect of humidity.

Thus sprayed, the adhesive constitutes a thin layer which has great flexibility and therefore does not affect the flexibility and feel of the composite textile intended for the interlining which incorporates it. In addition, this layer of adhesive does not constitute a gas barrier. it is thus possible to produce a textile intended for interlining which is breathable by using a textile support and a nonwoven web whose properties make it possible to confer this quality on the textile complex which incorporates them.

This association for the production of a textile intended for the interlining of two textiles each having specific properties makes it possible to obtain a wide variety of textile complexes and to control their properties. The textile support gives the complex its mechanical qualities and the nonwoven web gives it its volume and its feel. We can thus determine the resilience and flexibility of the complex.

It is preferable to use a very open textile support which may be a woven knit.

The association of two textile layers by a hot sprayed adhesive makes it possible to obtain a stabilizer which constitutes a barrier. effective avoiding the flow of polymers through the complex which is at the origin of the piercings. This type of association maintains a uniform distribution of the fibers of the nonwoven. On the contrary, when a non-woven layer is combined by stitching with a second layer, the stitching generates a grouping of fibers which weakens the interlining and can cause piercing.

In another embodiment, the two layers of the complex are woven or knitted. We can for example reinforce a knit with a textile grid. The knitting mainly provides the volume and the feel of the interlining and the grid mainly contributes to its flexibility and resilience.

During the manufacture of the textile intended for the interlining, the first layer 1 is brought through the intermediary of the cylinder 9 in contact with the second layer 2 guided by the cylinder 10. The cylinder-counter-cylinder assembly 8 ensures the setting in contact with the two layers 1, 2.

Before this contacting, the first layer 1 is coated with an adhesive composed of crosslinkable polymers sprayed hot by the injectors 6 and 7. The polymers 12 are introduced into the furnace 13 where they are brought to their melting temperature and they are then sent under pressure by the pump 14 via pipes 15 to the injectors 6 and 7.

The crosslinking polymers 12 in an ambient medium ensure the joining of the nonwoven layer 2 on the textile support 1. After guiding by the roller 11, the textile intended for the interlining thus produced is wound for storage.

Surprisingly, spraying polymers with heat, although producing a thin adhesive layer, ensures good solisarization of the two textile layers, capable of withstanding all the treatments to which the textiles intended for interlining. In particular, they resist washing, dry cleaning, ironing, ...

During its spray coating, the textile support is brought into contact with the molten adhesive but is not brought to a higher temperature and only supports this temperature for a short time. For this reason, it is possible to use a relatively fragile textile support which could be damaged by other coating methods and it is even possible to use a textile support which is already coated on its other side. '' a thermoadhesive layer. Such a layer is intended to perform the lamination of the interlining on a drapery or lining. By using the technique described above, the thermoadhesive layer remains at a temperature below the temperature to which it is brought during the lamination and its properties are therefore not affected.

The following compositions are given by way of example and other embodiments are possible within the scope of the invention. The various adhesives mentioned above can be used to make the composite textile of the invention or to implement the process.

Example 1 :

First layer:

woven fabric weighing approximately 200 g / m² comprising a cotton warp having a density of 2,400 threads per meter, composed of threads having a count of 20 Tex and a weft having a density of 1,400 threads per meter, composed of a mixture of animal fibers (goat hair, flax, ponytail hair) and cellulosic fibers.

Second layer:

non-woven tablecloth composed of synthetic fibers with a titration of around 3 decitex. This tablecloth has a weight of about 100g / m², it is needled beforehand, thermally bonded or reinforced with a knitted fabric.

The textile thus obtained has great nervousness in the weft direction and good resilience. Its volume and feel are mainly produced by the nonwoven web. This textile is more particularly intended for the production of faceplates.

Example 2 :

First layer:

warp knitted fabric with weft insertion, weighing approximately 60g / m². The knitting is of the warp type, made of continuous multifilament synthetic yarns having a density of approximately 600 to 1,200 columns per meter and a titration of 20 to 50 decitex. The weft is made with synthetic, artificial or natural fibers. The density of the weft threads is around 900 to 1,300 threads per meter, their titration is around 30 to 70 decitex.

Second layer:

non-woven sheet having a weight of about 25 g / m² made up of thermally bonded synthetic fibers, a sheet of fibers obtained by the "melt blown" technique, or chemically bonded cellulosic fibers.

The textile thus obtained is dimensionally stable, it is wrinkle-resistant and has a good volume. It is particularly well suited to the production of fusible linings. In this application it can be coated with a discontinuous thermoadhesive layer, deposited either on the face of the nonwoven web or on the side of the woven warp knit. This textile then avoids the drawbacks resulting from the creep of the polymers of the thermoadhesive layer through their support.

Example 3 :

First layer:

Fabric with a weight of around 70g / m² consisting of:
· Either a woven fabric composed of cellulosic threads, or a mixture of threads of synthetic, animal or artificial fibers; the thread titration is of the order of 30 Tex, their density is approximately from 1,400 to 2,000 threads per meter;
· Or a warp knit incorporating a long weft and having a ply of straight yarns in the warp direction.
The fabric is then produced with multifilament synthetic yarns with a titration of 20 to 50 decitex having a density of around 900 columns per meter.
The long weft is made up of synthetic, artificial or cellulosic threads or a mixture of these fibers, having a titration of 20 to 50 decitex and a density of approximately 1,200 columns per meter.
The layer of straight warp yarns (cahestan) is made up of synthetic, artificial or cellulosic yarns or a mixture of these fibers, having a count of about 25 Tex and a density of about 900 threads per meter.

Second layer:

depending on the properties sought, it is made up of:

• a nonwoven of thermally bonded synthetic fibers weighing approximately 50 g / m²;
• a nonwoven of needled artificial fibers weighing approximately 20 g / m²;
  • a nonwoven reinforced with a knit;
  • a woven mesh textile similar to that usable for the first layer;
• a woven fabric similar to that used for the first layer.

The textile thus obtained is stable, wrinkle-resistant. It has a volume and a resilience which allow when using it for the manufacture of faceplates to avoid the use of a free faceplate.

It is therefore well suited to the production of thermoadherent interlining comprising reinforced zones.

It is also possible according to the invention to combine a textile layer and one or more nonwoven plies of different widths. One thus obtains a textile intended for the interlining whose properties of flexibility, touch, ... are variable in the warp direction. These same properties can also be varied in the weft direction by associating a second textile layer 2 with a first on only certain areas of the latter. In this case, the two textile layers 1 and 2 have the same width, the second layer is coated by hot spraying and cut into strips during its advancement.

The first continuously advancing textile layer is associated as described above with a strip of the second textile layer, the advancement of which is then stopped. After a determined advancement of the first layer without association with the second, the association is again carried out. One thus obtains a complex comprising alternately one or two textile layers and therefore having variable properties in the direction of the weft which is particularly appreciated for the production of faceplates and for multi-horizontal front interlining.

Claims (6)

1. An interlining of the type including two textile layers (1, 2) and a thermoadhesive layer coated on one of its faces, one of the textile layers (1, 2) being a nonwoven lap, characterised in that the other textile layer is knitted or woven and in that the textile layers (1, 2) are joined together by a hot-melt adhesive made up of hot-sprayed cross-linkable polymers, thus making up a thin layer which forms a barrier against the flow of the polymers of the thermoadhesive layer (3).
2. An interlining as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that it includes at least one nonwoven lap (2) obtained through direct spinning.
3. An interlining as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that it includes at least one nonwoven lap (2) obtained through melt blowing.
4. An interlining as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the nonwoven lap (7) is needled.
5. An interlining as claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the base fabric (1) is a weft knitted fabric.
6. An interlining as claimed in any of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the textile layers (7) have different widths.

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