EP0578527B1 - Textile support for fusible interlining having air-jet texturised weft yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

The textile support for a fusible interlining according to the invention consists of a weft fabric or weft knit, at least the weft of which is made from synthetic threads of high bulk, obtained by the air-jet texturing technique from at least two multifilament threads, namely a first core thread at 20 to 40 % by weight and a second fancy thread at 60 to 80 % by weight, the overfeed of the core thread being between 10 and 25 % and the overfeed of the fancy thread being at least 70 %. <IMAGE>

Description

The present invention relates to a textile support intended for interlining of clothing pieces, in particular intended to constitute a fusible interlining by deposition of hot-melt polymers on its surface.

Among the supports for fusible interlining, there are on the one hand the textile supports proper, and on the other hand the nonwovens. The actual textile supports are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constituting and consolidating a sheet of fibers or filaments.

For the production of textile supports intended for the interlining of fine and light draperies, for example blouses, dresses or light jackets, textured synthetic yarns have already been used, obtained by the fixed false twist process. This limitation to fine and light drapery is due to the low volume and the smooth surface resulting from the low crimping of the continuous textured filaments obtained by this texturing technique. Furthermore, to give such textile supports the feel necessary for the interlining, it is necessary to subject them to shrinkage and heat-setting treatments after weaving or knitting, in order to reveal the crimping of the filaments.

These shrinkage and heat-setting treatments have the effect of increasing the volume of the textile support and thus of modifying its feel. This necessitates producing, during weaving or knitting, a textile support which has a width of 15 to 30% greater than that obtained after the shrinkage and heat-setting treatments. It is therefore necessary to implement trades allowing to work in greater width.

In addition, the textile support thus retracted has a residual extensibility which is close to the rate of retraction. This extensibility can affect the non-deformability of the garment when worn, since the interlining is not able to stabilize the piece of clothing, when it is itself extensible, for example when it is a mesh article.

Furthermore, in the field of fusible interlining, it is sought that the textile support has very good covering power, so that the deposits of hot-melt polymer produced on the surface of said support do not penetrate inside that. -ci, such penetration having the effect of locally stiffening said interlining and therefore the piece of clothing. With an interlining of equal weight, the penetration of the polymer is all the less easy when the surface of the support is closed, that is to say that there is a reduced spacing between the different fibers or filaments which constitute the support. . The more this spacing is reduced, the more the support has a high covering power. Structurally, for equal weight, the interlining support made of nonwoven has a much greater covering power than the textile support itself.

However, the nonwoven lacks bulk to constitute a fusible interfacing acceptable in many applications.

The aim set by the applicant is to provide a textile support for fusible interlining which has a covering power similar to that of a nonwoven and which does not have the aforementioned drawbacks of the textile support comprising textured threads obtained by the fixed false twist process.

This object is perfectly achieved by the support for fusible interlining according to the invention. This support is of the textile support type in that it consists of a fabric or weft knit. In known manner, it comprises textured synthetic yarns. Typically, at least the weft of the fabric or weft knitted fabric is made of very large synthetic yarns, obtained by the air jet texturing technique from at least two multifilament yarns, namely a first yarn. core for 20 to 40% by weight, and a second effect thread for 60 to 80% by weight, the overfeeding of the core thread being between 10 and 25% and the overfeeding of the effect thread at least 70%.

The applicant has found that under the aforementioned specific conditions, the textile support for fusible interfacing has excellent covering power, a feel comparable to a support produced from fiber yarns, and a very large volume.

Certainly the technique of texturing by air jet with core thread and effect thread has already been known for a long time. Such a technique is for example described in the document FR A 2 450 891. However, to the knowledge of the applicant, no textile support for fusible interlining has been proposed with constituent threads of textured synthetic threads, with a large volume, obtained by the air jet texturing technique using two multifilament yarns, with supercharging. Indeed, under the normal conditions of implementation of this technique, that is to say for other applications, the yarn obtained does not provide the desired qualities for an optimal interlining.

Preferably, the textile support being a weft knitting, the percentage by weight of weft yarn relative to the warp yarn is at least 80%. In this case, it is noted that the coverage rate of the textile support obtained is very much higher than that obtained when a weft yarn is used which is a yarn of fibers of the same count, replacing the textured yarn by jet of air according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the multifilament yarn corresponding to the core yarn is a yarn having a certain extensibility. The purpose of this is to give the textile support for fusible interlining a residual extensibility which is close to that obtained with textile supports woven or knitted from fiber yarns. Indeed if a high extensibility of textile supports for fusible interlining is prohibitive since it does not stabilize the drapes themselves extensible, nevertheless it is desirable that said supports have a certain extensibility so as to preserve the flexibility of the garment.

Preferably the extensibility in question is around 10 to 15%.

This is obtained by using, in the textile support according to the invention, textured core yarns conventionally obtained by the false twist technique. Thus the air jet textured yarn obtained has the residual elasticity corresponding to this tensioning.

According to another embodiment, the extensibility of the weft thread is obtained by using filaments based on elastane in the core thread. Despite the presence of the loops produced around the core thread by the effect thread, the weft thread retains part of the extensibility of the core thread.

Advantageously, the filaments of the effect yarn have a unitary titration which is between 1 and 3 decitex. This titration range makes it possible to avoid the drawbacks of excessively fine filaments and those of excessively large filaments. As the filaments are too fine, there may be a flattening of the filaments during the application of the polymer stitches on the textile support for the production of the fusible interlining. As for the use of filaments in the effect yarn with a titration greater than 3 decitex, it is detrimental to obtaining a high coverage rate, for a determined grammage support.

The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment of a textile support for fusible interlining, at least the weft of which is made of very bulky synthetic threads obtained by air jet texturing. , illustrated by the appended drawing in which the single figure is a schematic representation of the process for manufacturing a weft thread by texturing by air jet.

According to the invention, the fusible interlining consists of a textile support, that is to say a fabric or a weft knitted fabric of which at least the weft threads are synthetic threads textured by the technique of texturing by air jet from at least two multifilament yarns, namely a first yarn called core yarn, for 20 to 40% by weight and a second yarn called effect yarn for 60 to 80% by weight ; more during the manufacturing of this weft thread, the overfeeding of the core thread is between 10 and 25% and the overfeeding of the effect thread of at least 70%.

Although such a textured yarn can be used not only in the weft but also in the warp, for simplicity such a yarn will be designated in the present text by weft yarn.

FIG. 1 schematically represents the process for manufacturing a weft yarn 1, which is therefore a textured synthetic yarn meeting the above parameters.

This weft thread 1 is constituted by the assembly of two multifilament threads. A first wire called core wire 2 and a second wire called effect wire 3.

The core thread 2 is unwound from a spool 4, passes through a tensioning device 5 and is wound in several turns around a feed roller 6 before entering the texturing nozzle 7. The thread d effect 3 follows a similar route: it is unwound from the reel 8, passes through the tension system 9, is wound under several turns around the feed roller 10 and penetrates at the same time as the core wire 2 into the texturing nozzle 7. Preferably the core thread 2 passes through a wetting system, not shown, before entering the nozzle 7.

The texturing nozzle 7 is supplied with compressed air by the channel 11 from a source not shown. The thread 12, leaving the texturing nozzle 7 passes over a first roller 13 then a second intermediate roller 14 around which it is wound under several turns then the weft thread obtained 1 is received in the form of a coil 15, driven by friction thanks to the receiving roller 16.

According to the principle of air jet texturing, the peripheral speed of the supply rollers 6 and 10, respectively of the core wire 2 and the effect wire 3, is greater than the peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13.

According to the invention, the rate of overfeeding of the core wire must be between 10 and 25%. This means that the peripheral speed of the feed roller 6 will be 10 to 25% higher than the peripheral speed of the winding of the weft thread 1 on the first intermediate roller 13. Similarly with regard to the effect yarn, the rate of overfeeding must be according to the invention at least 70%. This means that the peripheral speed of the feed roller 10 will be 70% higher than the winding speed of the weft thread 1 on the first intermediate roller 13.

The second intermediate roller 14 is used to regulate the tension of the weft thread 1. It may have a peripheral speed slightly higher than that of the first intermediate roller 13.

The peripheral speed of the receiving roller 16 can be higher or lower than that of the first intermediate roller 13. In particular, a peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13 is chosen which is lower than that of the receiving roller 16 when it is desired that the wire d 'core 2 is in the weft thread 1 in a substantially stretched state, without excessive formation of loops on said core thread.

The peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13 defines, with respect to the peripheral speeds of the supply rollers 6 and 10 respectively, the supercharging of the core 2 and effect 3 yarns when these pass through the texturing nozzle 7. The flow of compressed air, supplied by the conduit 11, enters the interior chamber of the texturing nozzle 7 and meets the core 2 and effect 3 wires therein. The swirl effect caused inside this chamber by compressed air intertwines the filaments making up the core 2 and effect 3 wires so that loops are formed from the filaments of the effect 3 wire which are inserted and blocked by the filaments of the core thread 2. It is understood that the rate of overfeeding of the effect thread influences the looping effect obtained. Overfeeding the core wire 2 opens the filaments thereof so that the filaments of the effect wire 3 can, under the effect of compressed air, penetrate between the unitary filaments of the wire. soul 2.

In the case where the core thread 2 and / or the effect thread 3 are threads of the POY type, that is to say threads which have undergone only a pre-stretching during spinning, the installation which has just been described also comprises, between the tensioning device 5 or 9 and the texturing nozzle 7, a drawing system comprising two feed rollers with the downstream roller which rotates at a peripheral speed greater than that of the upstream roller and which, being heated, thermofixes the wire. The supercharging of the core thread and of the effect thread according to the invention must be understood as being defined from the peripheral speeds of the downstream roller of the drawing system and of the first intermediate roller.

According to the technique which has just been described, a weft yarn 1 is produced having a titration of 360 decitex, comprising a proportion of 30% by weight of core yarn and 70% by weight of effect yarn. The core thread 2 is a multifilament thread of 170 dtex, 72 strands of POY type, each multifilament making 2.36 dtex; the effect thread is a multifilament thread of 170 dtex, 72 strands of POY type, each filament making 2.36 dtex. The core and effect wires 2, 3 were drawn in the drawing system until reaching a titration of 100 dtex. This weft thread 1 was obtained with an overfeeding of the core thread of 11% and an overfeeding of the effect thread of 170%.

This weft yarn 1 was used in the manufacture of a weft knit for fusible interlining in which the weft represents 80% of the total weight of the knit.

Comparatively, a weft knit having the same texture and the same pattern was produced by using as a weft yarn a fiber yarn of the same count obtained using the open-end spinning technique called open end.

It is noted that the knitted fabric obtained with the synthetic weft yarn textured by air jet has a much higher coverage rate than that obtained with the fiber yarn. The same is true for the comparison of the thicknesses of the two knits. The difference observed is more than double. More specifically, the measurement of the thickness obtained using the apparatus marketed by the company SODEMAT was 0.77 mm for the weft knitting according to the invention and 0.33 mm for the weft knitting with the open end wire.

Of course, in the case of weft knitting obtained with a weft of fibers, it is usual to subject it to treatments in particular scraping, intended to bring out the surface fibers. Even after scraping, it is noted that the weft knitting with yarn of fibers has a coverage rate which is lower than that of the weft knitting according to the invention. Indeed, the loops of textured yarns with a large volume close off the spaces between the stitches of the weft knit much more than do the knitted fibers, the latter remaining on the surface of the weft knit.

It is also noted that the coverage obtained with the knitted fabric of the invention is, compared to the textile supports usually used for fusible interlining, much more uniform. In addition, when applying the glue dots to the textile support, better adhesion of the polymer is obtained.

We can try to explain these good results due to the combination of the presence of the effect son loops and the number of filaments involved in these loops as well as their unit titration. Although the weft yarn obtained by the air jet texturing technique seems to have a relatively heterogeneous structure, the loops of the effect yarn not having a uniform radial distribution, ultimately this heterogeneity is evident in the manufacture of '' a weft knit in which the weft yarn represents up to 80% by weight of the knit. The loops of the effect yarn, under the aforementioned conditions, are found on the one hand on the two faces of the weft knit and on the other hand largely fill the intervals between each stitch. This is what makes it possible to obtain a very large volume of the knitted fabric as well as a touch somewhat akin to that of a knitted fabric obtained using fiber yarn and also very good coverage. It is also the presence of the loops, according to the aforementioned parameters, which makes it possible to obtain very good adhesion of the glue points, which is produced more on the surface.

Thanks to the textile support according to the invention, it is possible to obtain a covering having a given covering power using a support of lower grammage. In addition, it is possible to significantly reduce the amount of polymer used during the application of the glue dots.

The present invention is not limited to the embodiment which has just been described by way of non-exhaustive example. In particular according to an alternative embodiment, it is possible to use as core thread a multifilament synthetic thread previously textured according to the false twist technique. Such a core thread has a certain elasticity which will be partially found, despite a certain blockage due to the presence of the effect threads, in the weft thread and therefore in the textile support for fusible interlining produced, according to the invention, from the air jet textured weft yarn.

In addition, it is possible to use during the manufacture of the aforementioned weft yarn, any type of synthetic yarn whether pre-stretched or already stretched, it being understood that the term "synthetic" is not restrictive but encompasses also - in this text - what is usually referred to as "artificial".

Claims (6)

1. A textile base material for thermobonding interlining, constituted by a fabric or a weft knit comprising texturized synthetic yarns, characterized in that at least the weft of the fabric or of the weft knit is made of synthetic yams of large voluminosity, obtained by the air-jet texturization technique from at least two multi-filament yarns, namely a first core yarn for 20 to 40% by weight and a second effect yarn for 60 to 80% by weight, the overfeeding of the core yarn being included between 10 and 25% and overfeeding of the effect yarn at least 70%.
2. The textile base material for thermobonding interlining according to claim 1, characterized in that the unitary filaments of the effect yarn have a count of between 1 and 3 decitex.
3. The textile base material for thermobonding interlining according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that, said base material being a weft knit, the percentage by weight of the weft yarn with respect to the warp yarn is at least 80%.
4. The textile base material for thermobonding interlining according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the core yarn presents a certain extensibility capable of giving the weft yarn obtained a residual extensibility of the order of 10 to 15%.
5. The textile base material for thermobonding interlining according to claim 4, characterized in that the core yarn is a yarn texturized by the false twist technique.
6. The textile base material for thermobonding interlining according to claim 4, characterized in that the core yarn comprises filaments based on elastothane.

Images