JP4050405B2 - Design yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

【００５６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の意匠糸は、糸形態安定性に優れ、しかも織編物としたときに、一般的な意匠撚糸のように堅い風合いでなく、手触りがソフトであり、また十数ｃｍ〜２ｍと従来にない長いピッチの光沢斑やスラブ形態を付与することができる。更に、高捲回数領域が細く集束し、太さが逆転した細く長いスラブ部をもつ意匠糸によれば、従来にないより優れた光沢斑やスラブ形態をもつ織編物を提供することができる。また、かかる意匠糸は、本発明の製造方法により比較的簡単な装置を用いて製造することができ、製造装置に格別の設計変更を必要としない。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の好適な実施の形態による意匠糸の概略図である。
【図２】本発明の他の好適な実施の形態による意匠糸の概略図である。
【図３】本発明の更に他の好適な実施の形態による意匠糸の概略図である。
【図４】本発明による意匠糸の製造方法に好適に使用される意匠糸製造装置の概略図である。
【符号の説明】
１ 芯糸供給部
２ ガイド
３ ラダーガイド
４ マグネットテンサー
５ 下段中空スピンドル
６ 上段中空スピンドル
７ 鞘糸ボビン
８ 捲取りロール
９ 捲取りロール駆動ローラー
１０ モーター回転数制御部
Ａ 芯糸
Ｂ 鞘糸
Ｃ 本発明の意匠撚糸
Ｈ 高捲回数領域
Ｌ 低捲回数領域[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a design yarn generally referred to as a slab yarn or a twisted tone yarn and a method for producing the same, and has excellent yarn form stability, and has a soft hand when made into a woven or knitted fabric. Relates to a design yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric exhibiting luster spots and morphological spots of an unprecedented long pitch of ten and several centimeters to 2 m, and a manufacturing method for manufacturing a consent designed yarn using a relatively simple device Is.
[0002]
[Prior art and problems to be solved by the invention]
Conventionally, design yarns are generally manufactured using a dedicated machine such as a ring twisting machine or a tri twister. The design yarn manufacturing method using a ring twisting machine is a two-step process comprising a step of forming a design portion by entwining a core yarn with an entangled yarn, and a step of binding a presser yarn to improve the stability of the consent design portion. Is needed. Therefore, the production of the design yarn by the ring twisting machine is extremely inferior in productivity. In addition, the design portion regulates the form by the angle at which the entangled yarn joins the core yarn, and further, the size and appearance frequency of the consent designed portion change the supply amount of the entangled yarn, A design change is given by stopping supply instantaneously. Therefore, even if a relatively short design portion such as a knot yarn or a slab can be provided, it is difficult to form a relatively long design portion such as several cm to 1 m.
[0003]
Further, as a design yarn manufacturing device, a device such as a tri twister with improved productivity of a ring twisting machine has been conventionally used. When producing a design yarn using the tri twister, the design portion can be formed and the presser yarn can be wound in a single process, so that productivity is improved compared to a ring twisting machine. . However, even in the case of producing a design yarn using the tri twister, it is difficult to form a relatively long design portion of several cm to 1 m due to the configuration of the apparatus, as in the above-described ring twisting machine. .
[0004]
Further, for example, in the method for producing a fancy yarn disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 52-40640, the core yarn is composed of a plurality of filaments using an appropriate device such as a double twister, a hollow spindle, or a ring twisting machine. Fiber bundles are being beaten. When the fiber bundle is wound, a plurality of filaments of the fiber bundle are not converged, and the amount of entanglement of the fiber bundle with respect to the core yarn is changed to change the coating amount in the coating layer, that is, the design portion. Thus, the surface of the design yarn becomes a soft hand of the filament, and the design yarn is rich in changes in the design portion. However, since the fancy yarn disclosed in the publication has a plurality of filaments that are not bundled with respect to the core yarn, the filaments have a void and are bulky, and the design portion has low shape stability. It is. Moreover, the fancy yarn disclosed in the publication is not particularly intended to form a design part as long as several centimeters to 1 meter. In the design part having low form stability as described above, It is difficult to form a design part as long as 1 m.
[0005]
Furthermore, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-33809 discloses a design yarn twisting machine. The twisting machine disclosed in this publication enables the turning of the covering yarn and controls the brazing position of the covering yarn with respect to the core yarn in a state where the covering yarn is securely clamped from inside and outside the ballooning locus surface. The unique mechanism of the covering ring clamping body is a special one provided in the hollow spindle part. Since the covering yarn of the design produced by such a twisting machine is a design part that is extremely excellent in form retention without the covering yarn of the design part being slipped off, it is not necessary to reinforce it with a presser thread. However, the twisting machine of the publication has a complicated mechanism, and even with the twisting machine, it is difficult to form a design portion as long as several tens of cm to 1 m.
[0006]
The present invention solves such conventional problems, is excellent in yarn shape stability, and when made into a woven or knitted fabric, does not have a firm texture like a general conventional design twisted yarn, has a soft hand, and has a sufficient touch. Design yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric having glossy spots and morphological spots with a relatively long pitch of several cm to 2 m, and a design yarn for producing a consent designed yarn using a conventional apparatus having a relatively simple mechanism It is an object to provide a manufacturing method.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention provides a core yarn Contains acetate fiber A design yarn in which a sheath yarn is wound, wherein the number of twists of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn varies between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m, and the number of times of the sheath yarn is 1000 T / m to 5000 T / M or less and a length of a high number of folds H that is 5 cm or more and 200 cm or less, and a low number of folds region L in which the number of folds of the sheath yarn is 200 T / m or more and 800 T / m or less, The ratio L (H) / L (L) between the average length L (H) of the wrinkle frequency region H and the average length L (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 1/40 ≦ L (H) Design yarns characterized by / L (L) ≦ 1/3 are the main components.
[0008]
Such a design yarn of the present invention is excellent in yarn form stability, and the length of the high twist number region H, which is a design portion, is remarkably longer than that of a conventional design twisted yarn. A woven or knitted fabric having glossy spots and morphological spots having a relatively long pitch of ˜2 m can be provided. Moreover, the texture of the obtained woven or knitted fabric is soft and has an excellent texture.
[0009]
If the number of folds of the sheath yarn in the high fold count region H is 1000 T / m or more, the high fold count region H has a slab shape, and an excellent design difference is expressed with the low fold count region L. . However, if the number of wrinkles exceeds 5000 T / m, the design is improved, but the production speed is extremely lowered, and the production efficiency is reduced, which is substantially undesirable.
[0010]
In the case where the number of folds of the sheath yarn in the low fold count region L is less than 200 T / m, the yarn displacement of the pod yarn in the low fold count region L is increased, and in a subsequent process such as weaving or knitting Passability decreases. Further, if the number of wrinkles exceeds 800 T / m, the design difference between the low wrinkle count area L and the high wrinkle count area H becomes small, and the design effect becomes low.
[0011]
Further, when the ratio X (H) / X (L) between the average length X (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length X (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is less than 1/40 When the design yarn is woven or knitted, the design effect due to the high winding number region H is lowered, and looks like a defect, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the ratio X (H) / X (L) exceeds 1/3, the design effect in the design yarn is high, but the production speed is extremely lowered and the production efficiency is inferior.
[0012]
The core yarn and sheath yarn constituting the design yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, and the material is not limited to polyacrylonitrile-based, polyester-based, polyamide-based synthetic fiber, acetate-semi-synthetic fiber, rayon, etc. Threads made of any material such as recycled fibers such as natural fibers such as silk and cotton may be used. Moreover, there is no limitation in particular also about the thread | yarn form of the said core yarn, The thread | yarn which has appropriate forms, such as a filament yarn, its twisted yarn, a bulky processed yarn, a spun yarn, or false twisted design yarn, can be employ | adopted. Further, the fineness of the core yarn and sheath yarn is not particularly limited.
[0013]
Further, when the design yarn is various composite yarns by a combination of the core yarn and the sheath yarn, gloss difference, dyeing difference, shrinkage difference, etc. are imparted between the core yarn and the sheath yarn. A more preferable design effect is imparted to the obtained design yarn.
For example, in the low wrinkle frequency region L, since the core yarn appears in the gap between the sheath yarn coatings, the core yarn may be a differently dyed yarn having a dyeability different from the sheath yarn, or the sheath yarn. Further, by using a highly shrinkable yarn excellent in shrinkability, a spun yarn or the like, the characteristics of these core yarns can be imparted to the appearance and texture. When different dyed yarn is used for the core yarn, a different color twist feeling is obtained, and when high shrinkage yarn is used, the softness and bulge feeling due to the rise of the sheath yarn are excellent, and the spun yarn is used. When used, the fluff of the span appears on the surface layer of the obtained design yarn, and the texture of the span touch is utilized.
[0014]
Further, since the core yarn is completely covered by the sheath yarn, and the sheath yarn is slab-shaped in which the sheath yarn is mulled multiple times, the high yarn count region H takes advantage of the characteristics of the sheath yarn. ing. Therefore, for example, by using an acetate fiber for the sheath yarn, a high color development property and a moderate sharpness are imparted in the high fold count region H in the slab form.
[0015]
Furthermore, long slab-like morphological spots of 5 cm or more and 2 m or less are imparted to the woven or knitted fabric knitted with the design yarn of the present invention described above. In particular, in the case of a woven fabric, the length of the high wrinkle frequency region H in the design yarn is 5 cm to 30 cm, and the average length X (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the low wrinkle frequency region It is preferable to use a design yarn having a ratio X (H) / X (L) to an average length X (L) of L of 1/40 or more and 1/10 or less, and the woven fabric obtained from the design yarn is The preferable design property seen in a slab shape is imparted.
[0016]
In the case of a knitted fabric, it is a relatively long design yarn having a length of the high fold count region H of 30 cm or more and 2 m or less in order to give a preferable design property that looks like a slab due to a knitting loop. Further, the ratio X (H) / X (L) between the average length X (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length X (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 1/40 or more. It is preferable to employ a design yarn that is / 3 or less.
[0017]
Further, it is preferable that the high wrinkle frequency region H looks finer in appearance than the low wrinkle frequency region L.
Such a design yarn is a conventional design yarn in which the high wrinkle number region H is expressed thickly in a slab shape, whereas the high wrinkle number region H is long and transparent, that is, expressed in a reverse slab shape. It is possible to obtain a knitted fabric with a texture that is not present.
[0018]
In order to obtain such a slab form, it is particularly preferable to use a latent crimpable polyester yarn or a high shrinkage stress polyester yarn as the core yarn. In that case, the high shrinkage characteristic and bulkiness of the core yarn are expressed in the low number of warps region L, and the yarn looks thick due to the floating and swelling of the sheath yarn. Further, since the shrinkage characteristic of the core yarn does not appear in the high fold frequency region H where the sheath yarns are multiply wound on the core yarn, the core yarn looks relatively thinner than the low fold frequency region L.
[0019]
Alternatively, the above-described slab form can also be obtained by using an apparently bulky core yarn such as a polyester bulky processed yarn or a spun yarn. Furthermore, the design condition is such that the sheath yarn is tightly wound with respect to the core yarn, for example, by increasing the number of rotations of the spindle to which the sheath yarn bobbin is attached or increasing the flyer weight. The characteristic effect as a thread becomes more emphasized.
[0020]
Further, the present invention is a design yarn in which a sheath yarn is wound around a core yarn composed of the above-described design yarn, and the number of twists of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn is between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m. A high fold count region H in which the number of folds of the sheath yarn is 1000 T / m or more and 5000 T / m or less and the length is 5 cm or more and 200 cm or less, and the number of folds of the sheath yarn is 200 T / m or more and 800 T / m. And a ratio L (H) of an average length L (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and an average length L (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L. A design yarn characterized by / L (L) being 1/40 ≦ L (H) / L (L) ≦ 1/3 is another main component.
[0021]
Such a design yarn can be obtained by forming a double covering with two sheath yarns. There are the following four forms of design yarns at this time. The first form is a case in which the high yarn count region H of the sheath yarn in the subsequent spindle overlaps the high yarn count region H formed by the previous spindle, and the slab portion is greatly emphasized. It becomes a form. The second form is a case where the low fold count region L of the sheath yarn in the subsequent spindle overlaps the high fold count region H formed by the previous spindle, and the obtained design yarn is rich in wall-twisted design. It becomes a form. The third form is a case where the high fold frequency region H of the sheath yarn in the subsequent spindle overlaps the low fold frequency region L formed by the previous spindle, and the size of the slab portion is the above-described size. It becomes a thing smaller than the slab part of 1 thread form. Furthermore, the fourth embodiment is a case where the low fold count region L of the sheath yarn in the subsequent spindle overlaps the low fold count region L of the sheath yarn in the previous spindle, and the sheath yarn is doubled with respect to the core yarn. In this case, the cover ring is twisted.
[0022]
In the case of such a design yarn, by changing the yarn type of the sheath yarn B supplied in the two-stage hollow spindle, a gloss difference, a dyeing difference, a shrinkage difference, etc. can be given and various design effects can be obtained. Obtainable.
[0023]
Furthermore, the present invention is a method for producing a design yarn in which a sheath yarn is wound on a core yarn using a covering machine, wherein the spindle thread rotational speed of the sheath yarn bobbin is constant and the design yarn take-up speed is varied. The design yarn manufacturing method described above is still another main configuration.
[0024]
As described above, in the production method of the present invention, the above-described excellent design yarn can be obtained by simply changing the take-off speed of the design yarn using a conventional covering machine, There is no need for a device having a complicated mechanism or a special design change.
[0025]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to the drawings.
[0026]
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a design yarn according to a preferred first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a design yarn according to a preferred second embodiment of the present invention. Is a schematic diagram of a design yarn according to a preferred third embodiment of the present invention.
[0027]
In the design yarn C shown in FIG. 1, the number of twists of the sheath yarn B with respect to the core yarn A is changed between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m. H and the low wrinkle frequency region L appear alternately.
In the high wrinkle frequency region H, the number of wrinkles of the sheath yarn B is 1000 T / m or more and 5000 T / m or less, and the slab is thicker than the low wrinkle frequency region L. Further, the height variation frequency region H has a length of 5 cm or more and 200 cm or less. Further, in the low wrinkle number region L, the number of wrinkles of the sheath yarn B is 200 T / m or more and 800 T / m or less. Further, the ratio X (H) / X (L) between the average length X (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length X (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 1/40 ≦ X (H) / X (L) ≦ 1/3.
[0028]
The design yarn C ′ shown in FIG. 2 is also one in which the number of twists of the sheath yarn B with respect to the core yarn A varies between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m. Areas H ′ and low frequency area L ′ appear alternately.
The design yarn C ′ has a slab shape in which the high wrinkle number region H ′ is narrower than the low wrinkle number region L ′. This slab form is obtained particularly when a latent crimpable polyester yarn or a high shrinkage stress polyester yarn is adopted as the core yarn A, and the high shrinkage characteristics and bulkiness of the core yarn A in the low twist count region L ′. Is expressed, and the thread appears thicker due to the floating and swelling of the sheath thread B. Further, since the shrinkage characteristic of the core yarn A does not appear in the high fold frequency region H ′ in which the sheath yarn B is repeatedly wound on the core yarn A, it appears to be relatively thinner than the low fold frequency region L ′. Become.
[0029]
Further, even when an apparently bulky core yarn A, such as a polyester bulky processed yarn or a spun yarn, is used, the high number of yarns region H ′ is a low number of yarns region L as in the design yarn C shown in FIG. It tends to appear relatively thin rather than '.
In the case of a woven or knitted fabric using such a design yarn C ′, unlike a conventional slab woven or knitted fabric using a design yarn having a thick slab portion, a slab-like woven fabric having a slab portion that is thin and tightened and has a transparent thickness. A knitted fabric can be obtained.
[0030]
The design yarn C ″ shown in FIG. 3 is wound in the high yarn count region H in the design yarn C in which the sheath yarn B is wound around the core yarn A shown in FIG. It is the schematic of the attached part, and has shown the form rich in the design of a wall twist.
The design yarn C ″ in this form, which will be described in detail later, is obtained by double covering the two sheath yarns B and B ′ with respect to the core yarn A, that is, as shown in FIG. 1 or FIG. Another sheath yarn B is wound around the design yarns C and C ″.
[0031]
Next, the manufacturing method of the design yarn by this invention is demonstrated. FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a production apparatus for producing the design yarn C shown in FIG. 1 that is preferably used in the production method of the present invention.
[0032]
The core yarn A drawn out from the core yarn supply unit 1 passes through the guide 2 and is pretensioned by the ladder guide 3 and then introduced into the magnet tensor 4 which is a tension applying device. In the magnet tensor 4, the supply speed of the core yarn A is adjusted. Although various devices can be used as the tension applying device, the method of the magnet tensor 4 can very smoothly follow the tension fluctuation of the core yarn A accompanying a rapid change in the take-up speed described later. preferable. In addition, in the magnet tensor method, the design yarn obtained has a high twist count region H, so that the sheath yarn is swayed while slightly swinging with respect to the core yarn. Yarn can be obtained.
[0033]
Thereafter, the core yarn A is sequentially introduced into the lower hollow spindle 5 and the upper hollow spindle 6 through the guide 2 as appropriate. In the illustrated example, a sheath thread bobbin 7 is attached to the lower hollow spindle 5. The sheath yarn B is supplied to the core yarn A on the downstream side of the lower hollow spindle 5, and the sheath yarn B is wound around the concentric yarn A. When the design yarn C shown in FIG. 1 is manufactured, the sheath yarn bobbin 7 may be attached to either the lower hollow spindle 5 or the upper hollow spindle 6 and supplied.
[0034]
The design yarn C of the present invention obtained in this way is appropriately wound up on the wrinkle removing roll 8 through the guide 2. The scraping roll 8 is rotationally driven by a scraping drive motor 9 of an inverter drive system. The rotation speed of the motor 9 is a motor rotation capable of transmitting a scraping rotational speed at random for a predetermined time. It is controlled by the number control unit 10.
[0035]
In the present invention, the rotational speed of the hollow spindles 5 and 6 to which the sheath thread bobbin 7 is attached is constant in order to vary the amount of change in the number of times of the sheath thread B with respect to the core thread A large and long. The scraping speed of the scraping roll 8 is changed under the condition maintained at the above. The change in the scraping speed, that is, the change in the rotational speed of the scraping roller 8 is performed by electrically controlling the rotation speed and time of the scraping motor 9 by the motor rotation speed control unit 10. The switching of the rotational speed of the scraping drive motor 9 is determined in consideration of the load of the motor 9, but the switching time is preferably 0.5 seconds or less.
[0036]
When the design yarn C ′ shown in FIG. 2 is manufactured, the characteristic effect as the design yarn C ′ is obtained by setting the sheath yarn B tightly against the core yarn A. It becomes more emphasized. For example, by increasing the brazing tension of the sheath thread, the sheath thread B can be tightened tightly by the core thread A. In order to increase the brazing tension, the sheath thread bobbin 7 The number of rotations of the spindle in the lower spindle 5 to which is attached may be increased, or the flyer weight may be increased.
[0037]
Further, the sheath yarn bobbin 7 is attached not only to the lower hollow spindle 5 but also to the upper hollow spindle 6, and the core yarn A is formed as a double cover ring by the sheath yarns B and B '. A slab part can be formed.
[0038]
There are the following four forms of the design yarn according to the present invention. As a first form, the high number of yarns region H of the other sheath yarn B ′ in the upper hollow spindle 6 overlaps with the high number of yarns region H of the sheath yarn B formed by the lower hollow spindle 5. This is a case where the slab portion is highly emphasized. The second form is a case where the high number of yarns region H of the sheath yarn B formed by the lower hollow spindle 5 overlaps with the low number of yarns region L of the other sheath yarn B ′ in the upper hollow spindle 6. As shown in FIG. 3, the design yarn thus obtained has a shape rich in wall-twisted design.
[0039]
The third form is a case where the high number of yarns region H of the other sheath yarn B ′ in the upper spindle 6 overlaps the low number of yarns region L of the sheath yarn B formed by the lower hollow spindle 5. Yes, the size of the slab portion is smaller than the slab portion of the first thread form described above. Furthermore, as a fourth embodiment, the low number of warp times region L of the other sheath yarn B ′ in the upper hollow spindle 6 overlaps the low number of warp times region L of the sheath yarn B formed by the lower hollow spindle 5. In this case, the sheath yarns B and B ′ are in a double covering twisted form with respect to the core yarn A.
[0040]
When the sheath yarns B and B ′ are double-covered, the yarn types of the sheath yarn B and the other sheath yarn B ′ supplied in the upper and lower hollow spindles 6 and 5 are different from each other. Thus, gloss difference, dyeing difference, shrinkage difference, etc. can be imparted, and more various design effects can be obtained.
[0041]
Hereinafter, the design yarn of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. In addition, about the twist number of the said sheath yarn B in the design yarn of each Example and a comparative example, it calculated | required using the test | inspection twist machine.
[0042]
[Example 1]
Using the double covering twisting machine (manufactured by Kataoka Machinery Co., Ltd.) which is the apparatus shown in FIG. 4 described above, a cationic dyeable polyester yarn (semi-dal 83dtex / 36f) is used as the core yarn A, and a triacetate yarn (Bright 110 dtex / 26f) was used to produce a design yarn. At this time, the sheath thread bobbin 7 was attached to the lower hollow spindle 5, and the upper hollow spindle 6 was not used. The lower hollow spindle 5 was spun in the S direction at a spindle speed of 6000 rpm. Moreover, the setting of the scraping speed was set at two stages of 30 m / min and 1.2 m / min. The high wrinkle frequency region H has a wrinkle frequency of 5000 T / m, a length of 30 cm to 2 m, and an average length X (H) of 1 m, and the low wrinkle frequency region L has a wrinkle frequency of 200 T / m and a length of 1 to The scraping speed was varied so that the random length was 80 m and the average length X (L) was 20 m.
[0043]
The obtained design yarn was knitted with a 28G tentacle structure and dyed with a cationic dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour to evaluate the uneven dyeing feeling. As a result, the design yarn according to the present example was able to form a triacetate slab portion of an unprecedented length of about 70 cm in the obtained knitted fabric due to the long high wrinkle number region H of 2 m at the maximum. In addition, in the slab part, triacetate strong twisting feeling was mixed in the low wrinkle frequency region L with triacetate and cation dyed yarn with different color wrinkles, and a long slab knit with high design effect was obtained.
[0044]
[Examples 2 and 3]
In Example 2, a design yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a high-shrinkage polyester yarn (semi-dal 83 dtex / 36f) was used as the core yarn A. Further, for Example 3, latent crimped polyester yarn (semi-dull 55 dtex / 12f) was used as the core yarn A, and triacetate yarn (Bright 132 dtex / 33f) was used as the sheath yarn B. Thus, the same production as in Example 1 was carried out.
[0045]
Each of the obtained design yarns was knitted with a 28G tengu structure, and the texture was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, the design yarn exhibits the shrinkage characteristic of the core yarn A in the low number-of-folds region L, the triacetate bulges with a moderate softness, and the high-number-of-folds region H has multiple sheath yarns. Therefore, the core yarn A was in a tightly tightened state where the contraction effect was not exhibited. For this reason, the high winding number region H is normally expressed thickly in a slab shape, whereas in the design yarns of Examples 2 and 3, the high winding number region H is expressed in a long and transparent state, that is, in an inverted slab shape. Became a knitted fabric. This knitted fabric is formed with a triacetate reverse slab part with an unprecedented length of about 10-70 cm, and in the low wrinkle frequency region L, the gloss and color developability of triacetate are utilized. Long slab knitting with high effect.
[0046]
Example 4
Cationic wooly polyester yarn (semi-dal 83dtex / 36f) is used as the core yarn A, the same triacetate yarn (Bright 110dtex / 26f) as Example 1 is used as the sheath yarn B, and the production conditions are as shown in Table 1. By changing the design yarn, the sheath yarn B was wound around the core yarn A in the S direction with a spindle rotation speed of 8000 rpm, and the design yarn was wound around in the Z direction.
[0047]
The resulting S-twisted design yarn and Z-twisted design yarn were woven into an alternating plain structure with a warp density of 75 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 50 yarns / 吋, and this fabric was cationized. The sensation was evaluated by dyeing at 120 ° C. for 1 hour with a dye. As a result, the design yarn of the present Example 4, as in Examples 2 and 3, exhibits the shrinkage characteristics of the core yarn A in the low wrinkle frequency region L, and the triacetate bulges in bulk with moderate softness. In the high winding frequency region H, the sheath yarn B was seized in multiple layers, so that the shrinkage effect of the core yarn A was not manifested and the slab was tightly tightened. In addition, this fabric has a high wrinkle frequency region H of an unprecedented length of about 5 to 30 cm, that is, a triacetate slab portion, and the slab portion having a sharp feeling looks thin with its thickness reversed. Moreover, in the low wrinkle frequency region L, the gloss and color developability of triacetate were utilized, and a long slab fabric having a high design effect was obtained.
[0048]
Example 5
Using rayon spun yarn (60 dtex) as the core yarn A and the same triacetate yarn (Bright 110 dtex / 26f) as Example 1 as the sheath yarn B, the production conditions were changed as shown in Table 1, and the sheath yarn A design yarn in which B was wound around the core yarn A in the S direction at a spindle rotation speed of 8000 rpm and a design yarn in which the yarn was wound in the Z direction were produced.
[0049]
The woven fabric obtained by weaving the obtained design yarn in the same manner as in Example 4 was dyed with a disperse dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour to evaluate the mottle. As a result, in the design yarn of Example 5, the fluff of the core yarn A appeared on the surface of the woven fabric in the low wrinkle frequency region L, the span touch was utilized, and the gloss of the triacetate that was the sheath yarn B was utilized. Twist spots are also expressed in design. On the other hand, in the high winding number region H, the triacetate comes in multiple contact with the core yarn A, so that the slab is tightly tightened. In addition, the fabric is about 5 to 30 cm and has an unprecedented high wrinkle frequency region H, that is, a triacetate slab portion, and the slab portion having a sharp feeling looks thin with its thickness reversed, On the other hand, a fabric with a long slab having a high design effect was obtained by making use of the texture of the span touch by the low wrinkle frequency region L and the feeling of glossy yarn twist of triacetate.
[0050]
Example 6
4 is used, and the sheath yarn bobbin 7 is attached to both the lower hollow spindle 5 and the upper hollow spindle 6 to form a double cover. Ring type. Latent crimped polyester yarn (semi-dull 55 dtex / 12f) as core yarn A, triacetate yarn (bright 110 dtex / 26f) from upper hollow spindle 6 as sheath yarn B, and cationic dyeable polyester yarn from lower hollow spindle 5 (Semi-Dal 83dtex / 36f) was supplied to produce a design yarn.
[0051]
The upper hollow spindle 6 was spun in the Z direction at 8000 rpm, and the lower hollow spindle 5 was spun in the S direction at 8000 rpm. Moreover, the setting of the scraping speed was set in two stages of 40 m / min and 2.7 m / min. The high wrinkle number region H has a number of wrinkles of 3000 T / m, a length of 20 cm to 1 m, and an average length X (H) of 0.4 m, and the low wrinkle number region L has a number of wrinkles of 200 T / m and a length of The scraping speed was varied so that the random length was 1 to 30 m and the average length X (L) was 15 m.
[0052]
The obtained design yarn was knitted with a 28G tengu structure, and stained with a disperse dye and a cationic dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour to evaluate the texture. As a result, the knitted fabric includes a slab portion of triacetate yarn and a slab portion of cationic dyeable polyester yarn, and has excellent dyeing difference and gloss difference. Also, long slab knitted fabrics with high design effect with various shape changes, such as slab shape, wall twisted yarn shape, double covering yarn shape, etc. with large changes in size, length and hue was gotten.
[0053]
[Comparative Examples 1-3]
For the core yarn A and the sheath yarn B, the same yarn as in Example 1 was used, and the production conditions were changed as shown in Table 1 to produce a design yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. The knitted fabric obtained by knitting the obtained design yarn with a 28G tentacle structure was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to evaluate the texture.
[0054]
In the case of Comparative Example 1, since the number of twists in the low winding frequency region L is as small as 150 T / m, the winding deviation of the low winding frequency region L occurs due to guide removal or the like in the knitting process, and the surface is frustrated. The knitted fabric has poor stability.
In the case of Comparative Example 2, the number of twists in the low number-of-windings region L is as large as 1000 T / m, and the sheath yarn B covers the core yarn A almost uniformly in the high number-of-windings region H. For this reason, the shape difference with the high number of warp times region H is small, and further, the knitted fabric does not show the warp effect of the core yarn A in the low number of times of warp region L, and the design difference is extremely poor.
In the case of Comparative Example 3, the ratio X (H) / X (L) between the average length X (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length X (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 4 / 200, which is a value smaller than the range of the present invention, because the slab part which is the high frequency region H is too long, and since the appearance frequency of the slab part is low, the knitted fabric looks like a yarn step defect state, There wasn't.
[0055]
[Table 1]

[0056]
【The invention's effect】
The design yarn of the present invention is excellent in yarn form stability, and when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it is not a hard texture like a general design twisted yarn, the touch is soft, and more than 10 cm to 2 m conventionally. No long pitch gloss spots or slab morphology can be imparted. Furthermore, according to the design yarn having a thin and long slab portion in which the high-thickness number region is thinly converged and the thickness is reversed, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric having a glossy spot or a slab shape which is superior to the conventional one. Moreover, such a design yarn can be manufactured using a relatively simple apparatus by the manufacturing method of the present invention, and no special design change is required for the manufacturing apparatus.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a design yarn according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a design yarn according to another preferred embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a design yarn according to still another preferred embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a design yarn manufacturing apparatus suitably used in the design yarn manufacturing method according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 Core yarn supply section
2 Guide
3 Ladder guide
4 Magnet Tensor
5 Lower hollow spindle
6 Upper hollow spindle
7 Scabbard bobbins
8 Saddle roll
9 Rolling roll drive roller
10 Motor speed controller
A core yarn
B sheath thread
C Designed twisted yarn of the present invention
H High frequency area
L Low frequency area

Claims (4)

A design yarn in which a sheath yarn containing acetate fiber is wound around the core yarn,
The number of twists of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn changes between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m,
The number of folds of the sheath yarn is 1000 T / m or more and 5000 T / m or less, and the length of the folds of the sheath yarn is 200 T / m or more and 800 T / m or less. And a low wrinkle frequency region L,
The ratio L (H) / L (L) between the average length L (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length L (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 1/40 ≦ L (H ) / L (L) ≤ 1/3.   The design yarn according to claim 1, wherein the high winding frequency region H looks finer in appearance than the low winding frequency region L. A design yarn in which a sheath yarn is wound around a core yarn comprising the design yarn according to claim 1 or 2,
The number of twists of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn changes between 200 T / m and 5000 T / m,
The number of folds of the sheath yarn is 1000 T / m or more and 5000 T / m or less, and the length of the folds of the sheath yarn is 200 T / m or more and 800 T / m or less. And a low wrinkle frequency region L,
The ratio L (H) / L (L) between the average length L (H) of the high wrinkle frequency region H and the average length L (L) of the low wrinkle frequency region L is 1/40 ≦ L (H ) / L (L) ≤ 1/3. In the manufacturing method of the design yarn in which the sheath yarn containing acetate fiber is sprinkled on the core yarn using a covering machine,
A method for producing a design yarn, characterized in that the winding speed of the design yarn is varied with the spindle rotation speed of the sheath yarn bobbin being constant.

Images