JP4787431B2 - Spun-tone processed yarn, method for producing the same, and woven / knitted fabric including the processed yarn - Google Patents

Spun-tone processed yarn, method for producing the same, and woven / knitted fabric including the processed yarn Download PDF

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JP4787431B2
JP4787431B2 JP2001244464A JP2001244464A JP4787431B2 JP 4787431 B2 JP4787431 B2 JP 4787431B2 JP 2001244464 A JP2001244464 A JP 2001244464A JP 2001244464 A JP2001244464 A JP 2001244464A JP 4787431 B2 JP4787431 B2 JP 4787431B2
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yarn
spanned
less
wound
core
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JP2003055851A (en
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多美子 安田
純哉 今北
恭史 香村
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Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
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Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
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  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、スパン調の風合いと太さ斑を併せ持つスパン調加工糸及びその製造方法並びに同加工糸を含む織編物に関するものであり、更に詳しくは、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持ち、かつ集束性に優れたスパン調加工糸及びその製造方法並びに同加工糸を含む織編物に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸は、紡績糸独特の自然な斑感、フクラミ感、コシのある風合いがあり、衣料用途の繊維素材として広く利用されている。
【0003】
一方、化学繊維マルチフィラメントは良好な生産性や品質維持、或いは特殊機能付加の容易さ等の特徴を有しており、該化学繊維マルチフィラメントを用いて、天然繊維で構成されるスパン糸様の加工糸が数多く提案されている。
【0004】
例えば、特開昭63−99344号公報には、仮撚加工装置を用いて、芯糸に対して1本の鞘糸が1重捲回構造に形成した仮撚2層構造糸が開示されている。
【0005】
具体的には、前記芯糸が延伸糸で、鞘糸は中間配向糸で構成され、芯糸に対する鞘糸の糸足差が45%〜150%、鞘糸は芯糸の周りで実質的に多重巻付構造をとることなく、一重の巻付状態で芯糸に緊締状態で巻付き、その巻付状態は巻付の反転周期が3mm以下で且つ、糸全体として意匠糸的な太さ斑がない仮撚2層構造糸である。
【0006】
これを製造するには、仮撚捲縮加工工程において仮撚旋回中の糸条(芯糸) に極く近接して配した鞘糸挿入ガイドを介して該芯糸に鞘糸を供給・巻付かせるに当って、芯糸として延伸糸を、鞘糸として中間配向糸を用い、芯糸に対して鞘糸を45%〜150%のオーバーフィ一ド下に供給し、鞘糸の芯糸への巻付開始点と鞘糸の鞘糸挿入ガイドからの離脱点との直線距離を5mm以下とし、鞘糸を芯糸の進行方向から芯糸に対して45°以下の角度で供給して清涼素材として有用な仮撚2層構造糸を得ている。
【0007】
また、例えば特開平3−14642号公報によれば、芯糸に対して1本の鞘糸による1重捲回構造を形成し、更にその周囲に1本の押糸が3重捲回構造で形成された複合仮撚加工糸を開示している。この複合仮撚加工糸は、従来避けられなかった三重捲回部のスラブ効果を外観的に消失させ、その撚糸効果のみを生かすように構成されているので、撚効果のある無地調加工糸が提供されるというものである。
【0008】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
しかるに、上記特開昭63−99344号公報に開示された仮撚2層構造糸の製造方法は、1本の糸条で構成される鞘糸の巻付密度を如何に上げて1重に巻き付かせるかに技術的なポイントがあり、巻付開始点における条件を限定して、比較的高いオーバーフィード量で鞘糸を供給している。そのため、得られる仮撚2層構造糸は、糸全体として均整(質)で撚糸効果が高く、清涼感のある素材となり、天然繊維から得られる紡績糸特有の自然な斑感、フクラミ感、コシのある風合いには乏しいものであった。
【0009】
また、上記特開平3−14642号公報に開示された仮撚加工糸は、一重巻付部と三重巻付部とを有するに関わらず、その撚糸効果のみを活かした無地調強撚織編物を与える加工糸を提供しようとするものであり、糸全体としては締まった構造を呈し、また視覚的な太さ斑が実質的に消失しており、自然な斑感、フクラミ感のある風合いには極めて乏しいものであった。
【0010】
本発明の目的は、このような従来技術における問題点を解決することにあり、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持ち、かつ集束性に優れたスパン調加工糸及びその製造方法並びに同加工糸を含む織編物を提供することにある。
【0011】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明の第1の要旨は、化学繊維マルチフィラメントである4本の糸条で構成されたスパン調加工糸であって、糸条Aを芯糸として糸条B及び糸条Cがそれぞれ1重捲回構造を形成し、かつ糸条Dが、間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回していることを特徴とするスパン調加工糸にある。
【0012】
本発明のスパン調加工糸において、糸条Aを芯糸として糸条B及び糸条Cがそれぞれ1重捲回構造を形成していることが必要である。
マルチフィラメントである糸条Aが芯糸として存在していることで、本発明のスパン調加工糸の特徴であるコシのある風合いが付与されている。また、糸条B及び糸条Cが各々独立に1重捲回構造を形成していることで、1本の糸条が1重捲回している場合と比較してよりバルキーな構造を形成するために、従来にないフクラミ感が得られている。更に、糸条Bの一重捲回構造と糸条Cの1重捲回構造の微妙な位相ズレにより、本発明のスパン調加工糸の糸長方向に自然な斑感が形成されている。
【0013】
本発明のスパン調加工糸において、糸条Dが、間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回していることが必要である。即ち、糸条Dにより間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成していることで、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cで形成されている1重捲回構造の形態安定性が維持され、本発明のスパン調加工糸に優れた集束性を与える。
【0014】
なお、一般に綿等の天然繊維で構成される紡績糸の諸物性を測定し、鋭意比較検討を進めた結果、本発明のスパン調加工糸において、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸と同様の自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを効果的に得るためには、該加工糸のウースター斑を9%以上20%以下、嵩高度を2.3cm3 /g以上3.0cm3 /g以下、嵩高圧縮率を25%以上50%以下とすることが好ましい。更にウースター斑は10%以上15%以下、嵩高度は2.4cm3 /g以上2.8cm3 /g以下、嵩高圧縮率が30%以上40%以下であることがより好ましい。なお、これらの諸物性値を有する本発明のスパン調加工糸は、構成する糸条の繊度や物性、製造時の加工条件設定等を適正化することで得ることができる。
【0015】
本発明のスパン調加工糸を構成する糸条A、糸条B、糸条C及び糸条Dは、化学繊維マルチフィラメントであればその素材は特に限定されず、製品の目的、性状に合わせて選択すればよく、例えば、合成繊維であるポリエステル系マルチフィラメント、ナイロン系マルチフィラメント、アクリル系マルチフィラメント等、半合成繊維であるアセテートマルチフィラメント、トリアセテートマルチフィラメント等、再生繊維であるレーヨン系マルチフィラメント等の素材、或いは複数成分で構成されるコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント、混合紡糸マルチフィラメント等を用いることが可能である。また、加工糸を構成する糸条全部が同素材であっても、或いは各種素材を組み合わせてもよく、本発明の目的の範囲で選択が可能である。更に、使用する糸条の繊度、フィラメント数、断面形態、艶、染色特性についても、目的の風合い、意匠効果及び色調効果に応じて選択すればよい。
【0016】
なお、本発明のスパン調加工糸の特徴をより効果的に得るために、ウースター斑、嵩高度及び嵩高圧縮率等を好ましい特性値とするためには、該加工糸の主に表面に配置され、1重捲回構造を有する糸条B及び糸条Cの各単繊維繊度を細くすることが好ましい。例えば単繊維繊度が5デシテックス以下であると、ソフトでフクラミ感が効果的に得られ、本発明の目的であるスパン調の風合いが得やすくなる。
【0017】
また、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成する糸条Dは、その3重捲回構造によるスラブ意匠性を抑制するために、繊度が細いことが好ましい。例えば、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの合計繊度に対する糸条Dの繊度の比率は0.8以下が好ましく、0.4以下がより好ましく、0.2以下が最も好ましい。更に、糸形態安定性をより強固にするためには、糸条Dは熱に対して収縮特性を有する化学繊維マルチフィラメントがより好ましく選択され、例えば沸水収縮率が3%以上25%以下であることが好ましく、8%以上20%以下の化学繊維マルチフィラメントを選択することがより好ましい。
【0018】
本発明の第2の要旨は、芯糸に対して鞘糸及び押糸を過剰供給する仮撚加工において、糸条Aを仮撚加撚域へ供給し、糸条Bを1重捲回して、さらに糸条A及び糸条Bの外周囲に糸条Cを1重捲回させた後、引き続いて糸条Dを、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に間歇的に3重捲回させることを特徴とするスパン調加工糸の製造方法にある。
【0019】
本発明のスパン調加工糸の製造方法では、糸条Aの外周囲に、2本の糸条を別々に1重捲回することが重要である。
マルチフィラメントである糸条Aを芯糸として供給することでコシのある風合いを付与し、かつ糸条B及び糸条Cを糸条Aの外周囲に別々に1重捲回させることで、糸条Bの1重捲回に伴う凹凸形状の形成と相まって、更にその凹凸形状の上に糸条Cの1重捲回が形成され、従来にないフクラミ感の付与することができるとともに、糸条B及び糸条Cそれぞれの1重捲回の微妙な位相のズレが生じて糸長方向の自然な斑感を付与することも可能となる。
【0020】
一方、糸条Dを、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に間歇的に3重捲回させることが重要である。
即ち、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に糸条Dにより間歇的に3重捲回部を形成させることで、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cで形成されている1重捲回構造の形態安定性を維持することが可能となり、本発明のスパン調加工糸全体に優れた集束性を付与することが可能となる。
【0021】
なお、糸条Dは、加工安定性が維持できる範囲で、繊度が細い糸条を用いることが好ましく、糸条Dによる3重捲回構造の意匠効果を抑制することで、従来の紬調加工糸や意匠糸とは異なるスパン調加工糸を得ることが可能となる。
【0022】
本発明のスパン調加工糸の上記製造方法において、マグネットテンサーで調整される糸条Aの加撚域への給糸張力は、加工安定性を考慮して適宜設定すればよい。また、糸条Aから各ガイドへの距離は加工安定性等を考慮して、適宜設定すればよい。
【0023】
また、糸条Aに対して糸条Bを1重捲回させる合糸点での合糸角度(θB)は、1重捲回構造の形態や形成安定性を考慮すると、20度以上80度以下であることが好ましく、30度以上70度以下がより好ましい。また、糸条Aに対して糸条Cを1重捲回させる合糸点での合糸角度(θC)は、上述の理由から、20度以上80度以下が好ましく、30度以上70度以下がより好ましい。加えて、加工安定性を考慮すると、合糸角度θCは合糸角度θBより大きい方がより好ましい。なお、各合糸角度θB,θCは、合糸する糸条B,C同士の繊度比、マグネットテンサーで設定される糸条Aの加撚域での張力、糸条Bあるいは糸条Cのオーバーフィード率、仮撚数等の加工条件で適宜設定することができる。
【0024】
糸条Aに対する糸条B及び糸条Cのオーバーフィード率は、構成糸の繊度や捲回状態等に留意して適宜設定すればよいが、過剰に締まった構造にならないようにソフトでバルキーな1重捲回構造を形成するためには、0%以上50%以下が好ましく、5%以上40%以下にすることがより好ましい。
【0025】
加えて、糸条A、糸条B、糸条Cで構成される合糸体に対する糸条Dのオーバーフィード率は、加工糸の形態安定性をより強固にすること等を勘案して適宜設定すればよいが、50%以上120%以下であることが好ましく、70%以上100%以下がより好ましい。
【0026】
上述ごとく、張力、各オーバーフィード率、仮撚数、合糸角度等の加工条件を最適化することによっても、ウースター斑、嵩高度及び嵩高圧縮率等の特性値を好ましいものとし、本発明のスパン調加工糸の特徴をより効果的に得ることが可能となる。
【0027】
本発明の第3の要旨は上記スパン調加工糸を含む織編物にある。
本発明のスパン調加工糸を含む織編物は、その混率並びに織編物組織を、目的の風合いや製品外観が得られる範囲で決定すればよく、本発明のスパン調加工糸のみ、あるいは他繊維との組み合わせ等を選択することができる。また、本発明のスパン調加工糸は、必要に応じて追撚或いは他繊維の合撚を施こしてもよく、本発明の目的の範囲内であれば特に限定されない。更に、染色仕上げ手法、用途等、一切限定されないが、本発明の加工糸の割合が大きいほど、その風合い、斑感等の特徴が生かされた良好な織編物となる。
【0028】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明の好適な実施形態を実施例により具体的に説明する。
本発明のスパン調加工糸にあっては、マルチフィラメントである糸条Aが芯糸となるため、コシのある風合いが付与されている。また、糸条B及び糸条Cが各々独立に1重捲回構造を有していることによって、1本の糸条が1重捲回している場合と比較すると、よりバルキーな構造が形成可能となるため、従来にないフクラミ感が得られている。更に、糸条Bの一重捲回構造と糸条Cの1重捲回構造の微妙な位相ズレは、本発明のスパン調加工糸の糸長方向に自然な斑感を与える。
【0029】
本発明のスパン調加工糸にあっては、更に糸条Dが、間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回しているため、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cで形成されている1重捲回構造の形態安定性が維持される。
【0030】
本実施形態によるスパン調加工糸においては、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な風合い等を効果的に得るために、該加工糸のウースター斑が9%以上20%以下、嵩高度が2.3cm3 /g以上3.0cm3 /g以下、嵩高圧縮率が25%以上50%以下としている。
【0031】
図1に本発明に係るスパン調加工糸の製造装置の概略構成を示している。
具体的には、4本の糸条A〜Dが多段に配され、糸条Aはマグネットテンサー5により張力が調整され、ガイド6を介して仮撚加撚域に供給される。一方、糸条Bと糸条Cを、それぞれフィードローラー7とフィードローラー9により糸条Aに対して過剰供給状態で供給し、更に糸条Dをフィードローラー11により同様に過剰供給状態で供給する。
【0032】
糸条Aのガイド6の下方には、糸条B〜Dのガイド8,10,12が順次配される。糸条B及び糸条Cの各ガイド8,10はそれぞれ糸条Aの通糸路に対して、その侵入角度、すなわち各合糸角度θB,θCを調整するの図示せぬ調整手段を有している。糸条Dは、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cにより構成される合糸体から一定の距離にあるガイド12を支点として、仮撚ユニット15により加撚され走行している該合糸体の糸軸方向に対して上下にトラバース捲回しつつ、該合糸体の外周囲に間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成する。
【0033】
糸条Dの合糸点の下方には接触式の第1ヒーター13が配され、その更に下流側には仮撚ユニット14、第1デリベリーローラー15、接触式の第2ヒーター16及び第2デリベリーローラー17が順次配されており、第2デリベリーローラー17を通過したスパン調加工糸は巻き取り機18に導かれる。
【0034】
上述のごとく、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cにより構成される合糸体に糸条Dが間歇的に3重捲回されると、続いて接触式の第1ヒーター13により加熱固定される。ここで、糸条Dによる3重捲回構造は強固に形態固定され、仮撚ユニット15を通過後もそのままの形態を保つが、該3重捲回構造以外の部分は仮撚ユニット15を通過後に解撚されて、仮撚方向と逆方向の撚り形態を呈する。引き続いて、第1デリベリローラー15と第2デリベリローラー17の間で、第2ヒーター16により熱セット処理され、巻き取り機18で巻き取られる。
【0035】
本発明のスパン調加工糸の製造方法において、マグネットテンサー5で調整される糸条Aの加撚域への給糸張力は、加工安定性を考慮して適宜設定すればよい。また、糸条Aから各ガイド6,8,10,12への距離は加工安定性等を考慮して、適宜設定すればよい。
【0036】
糸条Aに対する糸条Bの合糸点における合糸角度θBは、1重捲回構造の形態や形成安定性を考慮すると、20度以上80度以下であることが好ましく、30度以上70度以下がより好ましい。また、糸条Aに対する糸条Cの合糸点における合糸角度θCは、上述の理由から、20度以上80度以下であることが好ましく、30度以上70度以下がより好ましく、加えて、加工安定性を考慮すると、合糸角度θCは合糸角度θBより大きい方がより好ましい。なお、各合糸角度θC及びθBは、合糸する糸条同士の繊度比、マグネットテンサー5で設定される糸条Aの加撚域での張力、糸条Bあるいは糸条Cのオーバーフィード率、仮撚数等の加工条件で適宜設定することができる。
【0037】
糸条Aに対する糸条B及び糸条Cのオーバーフィード率は、構成糸の繊度や捲回状態等に留意して適宜設定すればよいが、過剰に締まった構造にならないようにソフトでバルキーな1重捲回構造を形成するために、0%以上50%以下が好ましく、5%以上40%以下がより好ましい。
【0038】
加えて、糸条A、糸条B、糸条Cで構成される合糸体に対する糸条Dのオーバーフィード率は、加工糸の形態安定性をより強固にすること等を勘案して適宜設定すればよいが、50%以上120%以下が好ましく、70%以上100%以下がより好ましい。
【0039】
以下、実施例により本発明をより具体的に説明する。
なお、本発明におけるウースター斑、嵩高度及び嵩高圧縮率は、以下のように測定する。
【0040】
ウースター斑:USTER TESTER(ZELLWEGER USTER社製)を用い、糸速度8m/分で測定したノーマルイナート値を、ウースター斑とした。
【0041】
嵩高値 :巻き取り張力を1/20×0.9807×9/10(cN/デシテックス)とし、一定速度で定容積スプールにサンプルを巻き取った後、サンプル重量を測定し、1g当たりの体積を求めた。任意の5サンプルの平均値を嵩高値とした。
【0042】
嵩高圧縮値 :JIS L 1090に準じて測定した、任意の5サンプルの平均値とした。
【0043】
(実施例1)
仮撚加工機(三菱重工(株)製LS−6)で、糸条Aにポリエステル常圧可染マルチフィラメントブライト84デシテックス48フィラメント、糸条B及び糸条Cにトリアセテートマルチフィラメントブライト167デシテックス40フィラメント、糸条Dとしてポリエステル高収縮マルチフィラメント33デシテックス24フィラメント(沸水収縮率:18%)を使用し、糸条Aに対する糸条B及び糸条Cのそれぞれのオーバーフィード率を25%、糸条Aに対する糸条Dのオーバーフィード率を80%、第1ヒーター13の温度を170℃、第2ヒーター16の温度を200℃、仮撚数を1650T/M(加撚方向Z)、加工速度を50m/分、第1デリベリローラー15〜第2デリベリローラー17間のオーバーフィード率を8%、合糸角度θBを40度、合糸角度θCを60度として、仮撚加工を行った。
【0044】
得られた加工糸の糸形態を光学顕微鏡で観察した結果、糸条Aを芯糸とする糸条B及び糸条Cの各1重捲回構造が形成されており、かつ糸条Dが間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回した構造を呈していた。
【0045】
また、得られた加工糸は、ウースター斑11.0%、嵩高度2.63cm3 /g、嵩高圧縮率32.2%であり、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持ち、かつ集束性に優れたスパン調の加工糸が得られた。
【0046】
更に、16G一口編機を用いて編み地(天竺組織)を作成し、常法の精練−染色を実施した結果、糸形態によるスパン様の膨らみ、ソフトさに加え、構成糸の染色特性による濃淡により、深みのあるスパン様の外観をも得ることができた。
【0047】
(実施例2)
仮撚加工機(三菱重工(株)製LS−6)で、糸条Aにナイロン66マルチフィラメント78デシテックス34フィラメント、糸条B及び糸条Cにジアセテートマルチフィラメントブライト167デシテックス39フィラメント、糸条Dとしてポリエステル高収縮マルチフィラメント33デシテックス24フィラメント(沸水収縮率:18%)を使用し、糸条Aに対する糸条B及び糸条Cのそれぞれのオーバーフィード率を30%、糸条Aに対する糸条Dのオーバーフィード率を100%、第1ヒーター13の温度を170℃、第2ヒーター16の温度を200℃、仮撚数を1900T/M(加撚方向Z)、加工速度を50m/分、第1デリベリローラー15〜第2デリベリローラー17間のオーバーフィード率を8%、合糸角度θBを35度、合糸角度θCを50度として、仮撚加工を行った。
【0048】
得られた加工糸の糸形態を光学顕微鏡で観察した結果、糸条Aを芯糸として糸条B及び糸条Cがそれぞれ1重捲回構造を形成し、かつ糸条Dが、間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回した構造を呈していた。
【0049】
また、得られた加工糸は、ウースター斑12.4%、嵩高度2.50cm3 /g、嵩高圧縮率30.5%であり、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持ち、かつ集束性に優れたスパン調の加工糸が得られた。
【0050】
更に、得られた加工糸を用いて緯打ちした平織物(緯打密度13本/cm、経糸密度47本/cm(ポリエステルマルチフィラメントセミダル56デシテックス24フィラメントで構成))を得、常法の精練−染色を行った結果、自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持つ織物が得られた。
【0051】
(比較例1)
仮撚加工機(三菱重工(株)製LS−6)で、ポリエステル常圧可染マルチフィラメントブライト84デシテックス48フィラメント及びトリアセテートマルチフィラメントブライト167デシテックス40フィラメントで構成された芯糸糸条群を、マグネットテンサーを介して仮撚加撚域に供給し、トリアセテートマルチフィラメントブライト167デシテックス40フィラメントを鞘糸として該芯糸糸条群の外周囲に1重捲回させ、引き続いてポリエステル高収縮マルチフィラメント33デシテックス24フィラメント(沸水収縮率:18%)を押糸として間歇的に3重捲回を形成させながら仮撚加工を実施した。
【0052】
なお、該芯糸糸条群に対する該鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を25%、該芯糸糸条群に対する押糸のオーバーフィード率を80%、第1ヒーター温度を170℃、第2ヒーター温度を200℃、仮撚数を1650T/M(加撚方向Z)、加工速度を50m/分、第1デリベリローラー〜第2デリベリローラー間のオーバーフィード率を8%、該芯糸糸条群と鞘糸との合糸角度を60度として、仮撚加工を行った。
【0053】
得られた加工糸の糸形態を光学顕微鏡で観察した結果、芯糸糸条群は撚糸形状を有しており、鞘糸が該芯糸糸条群の外周囲を1重捲回した上に更に押糸が間歇的に3重捲回を形成したものとなり、該加工糸の特徴は強いコシは得られているものの、自然な斑感やフクラミ感に乏しく、3重捲回構造によるスラブ意匠性が目立つために紬糸のような比較的粗野なものであった。
【0054】
ここで、得られた加工糸は、ウースター斑9.7%、嵩高度2.25cm3 /g、嵩高圧縮率33.3%、である。また、この加工糸を使って、実施例1と同様の編地を作成し、常法の精練−染色を実施した結果、スラブが目立つものであり、従来の紬糸調の編物の範疇を超えないものであった。
【0055】
(比較例2)
特開平3−14642号公報記載の製造方法を用いて糸加工を行った。
芯糸としてポリエステル常圧可染マルチフィラメントブライト84デシテックス48フィラメント、第1の鞘糸としてトリアセテートマルチフィラメントブライト167デシテックス40フィラメント、及び第2の鞘糸としてポリエステル高収縮マルチフィラメント33デシテックス24フィラメント(沸水収縮率:18%)を使用し、芯糸に対して第1鞘糸をオーバーフィード率25%で供給し、芯糸に対して1重で交互撚状に連続的に巻き付かせ、更にその外周囲に第2鞘糸をオーバーフィード率80%で供給して連続的に捲回させた。
【0056】
なお、第1ヒーター温度を170℃、第2ヒーター温度を200℃、仮撚数を1650T/M(加撚方向Z)、加工速度を50m/分、第1デリベリローラー〜第2デリベリローラー間のオーバーフィード率を8%として、仮撚加工を行った。
【0057】
得られた加工糸の糸形態を光学顕微鏡で観察した結果、糸全体としては締まった構造を呈し、また視覚的な太さ斑が実質的に消失しており、自然な斑感、フクラミ感のある風合いには乏しいものであった。
ここで、得られた加工糸は、ウースター斑9.4%、嵩高度2.22cm3 /g、嵩高圧縮率26.7%、である。また、この加工糸をつかって、実施例1と同様の編地を作成し、常法の精練−染色を実施した結果、自然な斑感、フクラミ感のある風合いは乏しいものであった。
【0058】
以上の結果から、本発明は、良好な生産性、品質維持や特殊機能付加の容易さ等の特徴を有した化学繊維マルチフィラメントを用いて、天然繊維で構成されたスパン糸のような自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持ち、かつ集束性に優れたスパン調加工糸が、高生産性で製造できるとともに、そのスパン調加工糸を含む織編物も、常法の精練−染色を行って、自然な斑感、フクラミ感及びコシを併せ持つ織編物であり、産業上の貢献度が高く、その意義は極めて大きい。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明におけるスパン調加工糸の製造方法の代表的な実施態様を示す概略構成図である。
【符号の説明】
A 糸条(芯糸)
B 糸条(1重捲回構造糸条)
C 糸条(1重捲回構造糸条)
D 糸条(3重捲回構造糸条)
5 マグネットテンサー
6 ガイド
7 フィードローラー
8 ガイド
9 フィードローラー
10 ガイド
11 フィードローラー
12 ガイド
13 第1ヒーター
14 仮撚ユニット
15 第1デリベリーローラー
16 第2ヒーター
17 第2デリベリーローラー
18 巻き取り機
θB 糸条Aに対する糸条Bの合糸角度
θC 糸条Aに対する糸条Cの合糸角度
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a spanned processed yarn having both a spanned texture and a thick spot, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric including the processed yarn, and more particularly, a spun yarn composed of natural fibers. The present invention relates to a spanned processed yarn having a natural patchy feeling, squeaky feeling and stiffness, and excellent in convergence, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric including the processed yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Spun yarns composed of natural fibers have a natural texture, squeaky, and firm texture peculiar to spun yarns, and are widely used as textile materials for clothing.
[0003]
On the other hand, chemical fiber multifilaments have characteristics such as good productivity, quality maintenance, and easy addition of special functions. Using these chemical fiber multifilaments, a spun yarn-like structure composed of natural fibers is used. Many processed yarns have been proposed.
[0004]
For example, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 63-99344 discloses a false twisted two-layer structure yarn in which one sheath yarn is formed in a single wound structure with respect to a core yarn using a false twist processing apparatus. Yes.
[0005]
Specifically, the core yarn is a drawn yarn, the sheath yarn is composed of an intermediately oriented yarn, the difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is 45% to 150%, and the sheath yarn is substantially around the core yarn. Without a multiple winding structure, the core yarn is wound tightly in a single winding state, and the winding state has a winding reversal period of 3 mm or less, and the entire yarn has a design-like thickness variation. This is a false twisted two-layer structure yarn.
[0006]
In order to manufacture this, the sheath yarn is supplied and wound to the core yarn through the sheath yarn insertion guide arranged in close proximity to the yarn (core yarn) that is rotating in the false twist in the false twist crimping process. In attaching, a drawn yarn is used as the core yarn, an intermediately oriented yarn is used as the sheath yarn, and the sheath yarn is supplied to the core yarn under an overfeed of 45% to 150%. The linear distance between the winding start point of the wire and the separation point of the sheath yarn from the sheath yarn insertion guide is 5 mm or less, and the sheath yarn is supplied at an angle of 45 ° or less with respect to the core yarn from the traveling direction of the core yarn. A false twisted two-layer structure yarn is obtained that is useful as a refreshing material.
[0007]
Also, for example, according to Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-14642, a single wound structure with one sheath thread is formed on the core yarn, and one push thread has a triple wound structure around it. A formed composite false twisted yarn is disclosed. This composite false twisted yarn is configured so that the slab effect of the triple wound portion, which has been unavoidable in the past, disappears in appearance, and only the twisted yarn effect is utilized. It is to be provided.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the manufacturing method of false twisted two-layer structure yarn disclosed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 63-99344 is based on how to increase the winding density of the sheath yarn composed of a single yarn and wind it in a single layer. There is a technical point on how to attach it, and the sheath yarn is supplied with a relatively high overfeed amount by limiting the conditions at the winding start point. Therefore, the resulting false twisted two-layer structure yarn is well-balanced (quality) as a whole, has a high twist effect, and has a refreshing feeling. The texture with was poor.
[0009]
In addition, the false twisted yarn disclosed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Hei 3-14642 is a plain twisted twisted knitted fabric that utilizes only the twisted yarn effect regardless of whether it has a single winding portion and a triple winding portion. It is intended to provide the processed yarn to be given, and the entire yarn has a tight structure, and the visual thickness spots have substantially disappeared. It was extremely scarce.
[0010]
The object of the present invention is to solve such problems in the prior art, and has both natural spotting feeling like a spun yarn composed of natural fibers, squeaky feeling and stiffness, and excellent convergence. An object of the present invention is to provide a spanned processed yarn, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric including the processed yarn.
[0011]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The first gist of the present invention is a spanned yarn composed of four yarns which are chemical fiber multifilaments, and the yarn B and the yarn C are each single with the yarn A as a core yarn. A winding structure is formed, and the yarn D is wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C while intermittently forming a triple winding structure. It is in the spanned thread.
[0012]
In the spanned yarn of the present invention, it is necessary that the yarn B and the yarn C each form a single winding structure with the yarn A as a core yarn.
The presence of the multifilament yarn A as the core yarn provides a firm texture that is a feature of the spanned yarn of the present invention. In addition, the yarn B and the yarn C each independently form a single winding structure, thereby forming a bulky structure as compared with the case where one yarn is single winding. For this reason, an unprecedented feeling of fluffiness is obtained. Furthermore, due to the subtle phase shift between the single-winding structure of the yarn B and the single-winding structure of the yarn C, a natural patchy feeling is formed in the yarn length direction of the spanned yarn of the present invention.
[0013]
In the spanned yarn of the present invention, the yarn D needs to be wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C while intermittently forming a triple winding structure. is there. That is, by forming the triple winding structure intermittently with the yarn D, the form stability of the single winding structure formed by the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C is maintained. The spun tone processed yarn of the present invention is provided with excellent convergence.
[0014]
In addition, as a result of measuring various physical properties of a spun yarn generally composed of natural fibers such as cotton and carrying out extensive comparison studies, in the spanned processed yarn of the present invention, natural spun yarn similar to spun yarn composed of natural fibers is used. In order to effectively obtain a smooth feeling, squeaky feeling and stiffness, the Worcester spot of the processed yarn is 9% to 20% and the bulk height is 2.3 cm. Three / G or more 3.0cm Three / G or less, and the bulky compression rate is preferably 25% or more and 50% or less. Furthermore, Wooster spots are 10% or more and 15% or less, and the bulk height is 2.4 cm. Three / G or more 2.8cm Three / G or less, and the bulky compression ratio is more preferably 30% or more and 40% or less. In addition, the spanned yarn of this invention which has these various physical-property values can be obtained by optimizing the fineness and physical property of the yarn which comprises, and the processing condition setting at the time of manufacture.
[0015]
The material of the yarn A, yarn B, yarn C and yarn D constituting the spanned yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a chemical fiber multifilament, and is matched to the purpose and properties of the product. For example, polyester multifilaments that are synthetic fibers, nylon multifilaments, acrylic multifilaments, etc., semisynthetic fibers such as acetate multifilaments, triacetate multifilaments, etc., rayon multifilaments that are regenerated fibers, etc. These materials, conjugate multifilaments composed of a plurality of components, mixed spun multifilaments, and the like can be used. Further, all the yarns constituting the processed yarn may be the same material, or various materials may be combined, and selection is possible within the scope of the object of the present invention. Furthermore, the fineness, the number of filaments, the cross-sectional shape, the gloss, and the dyeing characteristics of the yarn to be used may be selected according to the desired texture, design effect, and color tone effect.
[0016]
In order to obtain the characteristics of the spanned processed yarn of the present invention more effectively, in order to obtain woofer spots, bulk height, bulky compressibility, and the like as preferable characteristic values, the processed yarn is mainly disposed on the surface. It is preferable to reduce the single fiber fineness of the yarn B and the yarn C having a single winding structure. For example, when the single fiber fineness is 5 dtex or less, a soft and fluffy feeling can be effectively obtained, and a spanned texture, which is the object of the present invention, can be easily obtained.
[0017]
In addition, the yarn D that intermittently forms a triple wound structure around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C has a fineness in order to suppress the slab design by the triple wound structure. Is preferably thin. For example, the ratio of the fineness of the yarn D to the total fineness of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C is preferably 0.8 or less, more preferably 0.4 or less, and most preferably 0.2 or less. Furthermore, in order to further strengthen the yarn form stability, the yarn D is more preferably selected from chemical fiber multifilaments having shrinkage properties with respect to heat. For example, the boiling water shrinkage is 3% or more and 25% or less. It is preferable to select a chemical fiber multifilament of 8% or more and 20% or less.
[0018]
The second gist of the present invention is that in the false twisting process in which the sheath yarn and the press yarn are excessively supplied to the core yarn, the yarn A is supplied to the false twist twist region, and the yarn B is wound once. Further, after the yarn C is wound once around the outer circumferences of the yarn A and the yarn B, the yarn D is subsequently intermittently arranged around the outer circumferences of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C. The present invention resides in a method for producing a spanned yarn characterized by triple winding.
[0019]
In the method for producing a spanned yarn of the present invention, it is important that the two yarns are separately wound once around the outer periphery of the yarn A.
By supplying the multifilament yarn A as a core yarn, a firm texture is imparted, and the yarn B and the yarn C are separately wound around the outer circumference of the yarn A separately, Combined with the formation of the concavo-convex shape associated with the single winding of the strip B, the single winding of the yarn C is further formed on the concavo-convex shape, and an unprecedented fluffy feeling can be imparted. It is also possible to give a natural sensation in the yarn length direction by causing a slight phase shift of each single winding of B and yarn C.
[0020]
On the other hand, it is important that the yarn D is intermittently triple wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C.
That is, it is formed by the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C by intermittently forming a triple winding portion with the yarn D around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C. Thus, it is possible to maintain the form stability of the single wound structure, and it is possible to impart excellent convergence to the entire spanned yarn of the present invention.
[0021]
In addition, it is preferable to use the yarn with a finer fineness within a range in which the processing stability can be maintained, and the yarn D has a conventional twisted processing by suppressing the design effect of the triple wound structure by the yarn D. It becomes possible to obtain a spanned yarn different from the yarn or the design yarn.
[0022]
In the above-described manufacturing method of the spanned yarn according to the present invention, the yarn feeding tension to the twisted region of the yarn A adjusted by the magnet tensor may be appropriately set in consideration of processing stability. Further, the distance from the yarn A to each guide may be appropriately set in consideration of processing stability and the like.
[0023]
Further, the combined yarn angle (θB) at the single yarn winding point where the yarn B is wound once with respect to the yarn A is 20 degrees or more and 80 degrees considering the form of the single winding structure and the formation stability. It is preferable that it is below, and 30 degrees or more and 70 degrees or less are more preferable. Further, for the above-mentioned reasons, the stitching angle (θC) at the stitching point where the yarn C is wound once with respect to the yarn A is preferably 20 degrees or more and 80 degrees or less, and 30 degrees or more and 70 degrees or less. Is more preferable. In addition, in consideration of processing stability, it is more preferable that the combined yarn angle θC is larger than the combined yarn angle θB. Note that the respective combined yarn angles θB and θC are the fineness ratio of the yarns B and C to be combined, the tension in the twisted region of the yarn A set by the magnet tensor, the overrunning of the yarn B or the yarn C. It can be appropriately set according to processing conditions such as feed rate and false twist number.
[0024]
The overfeed rate of the yarn B and the yarn C with respect to the yarn A may be appropriately set in consideration of the fineness of the constituent yarn, the winding state, etc., but it is soft and bulky so as not to form an excessively tightened structure. In order to form a single wound structure, 0% to 50% is preferable, and 5% to 40% is more preferable.
[0025]
In addition, the overfeed rate of the yarn D with respect to the combined yarn body composed of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C is set as appropriate in consideration of further strengthening the form stability of the processed yarn. However, it is preferably 50% or more and 120% or less, and more preferably 70% or more and 100% or less.
[0026]
As described above, by optimizing processing conditions such as tension, each overfeed rate, false twist number, and combined yarn angle, characteristic values such as Wooster spots, bulk height, and bulky compressibility are preferred. The characteristics of the spanned yarn can be obtained more effectively.
[0027]
The third gist of the present invention resides in a woven or knitted fabric including the above-described spanned yarn.
The woven or knitted fabric containing the spanned yarn of the present invention may be determined in the range in which the blend ratio and the woven or knitted fabric can obtain the desired texture and product appearance. Can be selected. The spanned yarn of the present invention may be additionally twisted or twisted with other fibers as necessary, and is not particularly limited as long as it is within the scope of the object of the present invention. Furthermore, although there are no particular limitations on the dyeing finishing method, application, etc., the larger the ratio of the processed yarn of the present invention, the better the knitted or knitted fabric that takes advantage of its features such as texture and mottle.
[0028]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples.
In the spun toned yarn of the present invention, the yarn A, which is a multifilament, becomes the core yarn, so that a firm texture is imparted. In addition, the yarn B and the yarn C each independently have a single winding structure, so that a more bulky structure can be formed as compared with the case where one yarn is wound once. As a result, an unprecedented squeaky feeling is obtained. Further, the subtle phase shift between the single wound structure of the yarn B and the single wound structure of the yarn C gives a natural sensation in the yarn length direction of the spanned yarn of the present invention.
[0029]
In the spanned yarn of the present invention, the yarn D is further wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C while intermittently forming a triple winding structure. Therefore, the form stability of the single wound structure formed of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C is maintained.
[0030]
In the spanned processed yarn according to the present embodiment, in order to effectively obtain a natural texture such as a spun yarn composed of natural fibers, the processed yarn has a Wooster spot of 9% or more and 20% or less, and a bulky height. Is 2.3cm Three / G or more 3.0cm Three / G or less and a bulky compression rate of 25% or more and 50% or less.
[0031]
FIG. 1 shows a schematic configuration of the apparatus for producing a spanned yarn according to the present invention.
Specifically, four yarns A to D are arranged in multiple stages, and the tension of the yarn A is adjusted by the magnet tensor 5 and is supplied to the false twisting region via the guide 6. On the other hand, the yarn B and the yarn C are supplied in an excessive supply state to the yarn A by the feed roller 7 and the feed roller 9, respectively, and the yarn D is also supplied in an excessive supply state by the feed roller 11. .
[0032]
Below the guide 6 of the yarn A, guides 8, 10, and 12 of the yarns B to D are sequentially arranged. Each of the guides 8 and 10 of the yarn B and the yarn C has an adjusting means (not shown) for adjusting the intrusion angle, that is, the combined yarn angles θB and θC, with respect to the thread passage of the yarn A. ing. The yarn D is twisted and traveled by a false twist unit 15 with a guide 12 at a fixed distance from a yarn body composed of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C as a fulcrum. A triple winding structure is intermittently formed around the outer periphery of the combined yarn while traversing up and down with respect to the yarn axis direction of the body.
[0033]
A contact-type first heater 13 is arranged below the yarn joining point of the yarn D, and further on the downstream side, the false twist unit 14, the first delivery roller 15, the contact-type second heater 16, and the second Deliberry rollers 17 are sequentially arranged, and the spanned yarn that has passed through the second delivery roller 17 is guided to the winder 18.
[0034]
As described above, when the yarn D is intermittently triple-wound around the combined yarn composed of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C, the heat-fixing is subsequently performed by the contact-type first heater 13. Is done. Here, the triple winding structure by the yarn D is firmly fixed in form and maintains the form after passing through the false twisting unit 15, but the parts other than the triple winding structure pass through the false twisting unit 15. Later, it is untwisted to exhibit a twisted form opposite to the false twisting direction. Subsequently, a heat setting process is performed by the second heater 16 between the first delivery roller 15 and the second delivery roller 17, and the paper is wound by the winder 18.
[0035]
In the method for producing a spanned processed yarn of the present invention, the yarn feeding tension to the twisted region of the yarn A adjusted by the magnet tensor 5 may be appropriately set in consideration of processing stability. Further, the distance from the yarn A to each of the guides 6, 8, 10, and 12 may be appropriately set in consideration of processing stability and the like.
[0036]
The combined yarn angle θB at the combined point of the yarn B with respect to the yarn A is preferably 20 degrees or more and 80 degrees or less, and preferably 30 degrees or more and 70 degrees in consideration of the form of the single winding structure and the formation stability. The following is more preferable. In addition, the combined yarn angle θC at the combined point of the yarn C with respect to the yarn A is preferably 20 degrees or more and 80 degrees or less, more preferably 30 degrees or more and 70 degrees or less, in addition, In consideration of processing stability, it is more preferable that the combined yarn angle θC is larger than the combined yarn angle θB. Note that the respective yarn angles θC and θB are the fineness ratio between the yarns to be combined, the tension in the twisted region of the yarn A set by the magnet tensor 5, the overfeed rate of the yarn B or the yarn C. , And can be appropriately set according to processing conditions such as the number of false twists.
[0037]
The overfeed rate of the yarn B and the yarn C with respect to the yarn A may be appropriately set in consideration of the fineness of the constituent yarn, the winding state, etc., but it is soft and bulky so as not to form an excessively tightened structure. In order to form a single wound structure, 0% to 50% is preferable, and 5% to 40% is more preferable.
[0038]
In addition, the overfeed rate of the yarn D with respect to the combined yarn body composed of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C is set as appropriate in consideration of further strengthening the form stability of the processed yarn. However, it is preferably 50% or more and 120% or less, and more preferably 70% or more and 100% or less.
[0039]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.
In addition, the Wooster spot in this invention, a bulk height, and a bulky compressibility are measured as follows.
[0040]
Wooster spots: Normal inert values measured at a yarn speed of 8 m / min using USTER TESTER (manufactured by ZELLWEGER USTER) were defined as Wooster spots.
[0041]
Bulkiness value: The winding tension is 1/20 × 0.9807 × 9/10 (cN / dtex), and after winding the sample on a constant volume spool at a constant speed, the sample weight is measured and the volume per gram is determined. Asked. The average value of arbitrary 5 samples was made into the bulky value.
[0042]
Bulky compression value: An average value of 5 samples measured according to JIS L 1090.
[0043]
Example 1
False twisting machine (LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) Polyester normal pressure dyeable multifilament bright 84 decitex 48 filaments for yarn A, Triacetate multifilament bright 167 decitex 40 filaments for yarn B and yarn C Polyester high-shrinkage multifilament 33 dtex 24 filament (boiling water shrinkage: 18%) is used as the yarn D, the overfeed rate of the yarn B and the yarn C with respect to the yarn A is 25%, and the yarn A The overfeed rate of the yarn D with respect to is 80%, the temperature of the first heater 13 is 170 ° C., the temperature of the second heater 16 is 200 ° C., the number of false twists is 1650 T / M (twisting direction Z), and the processing speed is 50 m. / Min, 8% overfeed rate between the first delivery roller 15 and the second delivery roller 17 The angle .theta.B 40 degrees, as 60 degrees doubling angle .theta.C, were false twisting.
[0044]
As a result of observing the yarn form of the obtained processed yarn with an optical microscope, a single wound structure of each of the yarn B and the yarn C having the yarn A as a core yarn is formed, and the yarn D is intermittent. In particular, a triple wound structure was formed, and a structure wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C was exhibited.
[0045]
Moreover, the obtained processed yarn has a Wooster spot of 11.0% and a bulk height of 2.63 cm. Three / G, bulky compression ratio of 32.2%, and it is possible to obtain a processed thread with a span tone that has natural spots, squeakiness and stiffness like a spun yarn composed of natural fibers, and has excellent convergence. It was.
[0046]
Furthermore, as a result of creating a knitted fabric (Tenji texture) using a 16G one-neck knitting machine and carrying out conventional scouring and dyeing, in addition to the span-like swelling and softness depending on the yarn form, the light and shade due to the dyeing characteristics of the constituent yarns As a result, a deep span-like appearance could be obtained.
[0047]
(Example 2)
Using false twisting machine (LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries), nylon 66 multifilament 78 decitex 34 filament on yarn A, diacetate multifilament bright 167 decitex 39 filament on yarn B and yarn C, yarn Polyester high shrinkage multifilament 33 dtex 24 filament (boiling water shrinkage: 18%) is used as D, the overfeed rate of each of the yarn B and the yarn C with respect to the yarn A is 30%, and the yarn with respect to the yarn A The overfeed rate of D is 100%, the temperature of the first heater 13 is 170 ° C., the temperature of the second heater 16 is 200 ° C., the number of false twists is 1900 T / M (twisting direction Z), the processing speed is 50 m / min, The overfeed rate between the first delivery roller 15 and the second delivery roller 17 is 8%, and the combined yarn angle θB is 35. The doubling angle θC as 50 degrees, were false twisting.
[0048]
As a result of observing the yarn form of the obtained processed yarn with an optical microscope, the yarn B and the yarn C each form a single wound structure with the yarn A as a core yarn, and the yarn D is intermittently formed. While forming a triple wound structure, a structure wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C was exhibited.
[0049]
Moreover, the obtained processed yarn has Worcester spots 12.4% and a bulk height of 2.50 cm. Three / G, bulky compression ratio of 30.5%, and it is possible to obtain a processed thread with a span tone that has natural spots, fluffiness and stiffness like a spun yarn composed of natural fibers, and has excellent convergence. It was.
[0050]
Further, a plain woven fabric (weft density of 13 / cm, warp density of 47 / cm (composed of polyester multifilament semidal 56 decitex 24 filaments)) obtained by using the processed yarn obtained was obtained. As a result of scouring and dyeing, a woven fabric having both natural spots, fuchsia and stiffness was obtained.
[0051]
(Comparative Example 1)
With a false twisting machine (LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.), a group of core yarns composed of polyester normal pressure dyeable multifilament bright 84 dtex 48 filaments and triacetate multifilament bright 167 dtex 40 filaments, It is supplied to the false twisting region through a tensor, and triacetate multifilament bright 167 dtex 40 filaments are wound as a sheath yarn around the outer periphery of the core yarn group, followed by polyester high shrinkage multifilament 33 dtex False twisting was carried out while intermittently forming a triple winding using 24 filaments (boiling water shrinkage: 18%) as a pressing thread.
[0052]
The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn group is 25%, the overfeed rate of the press thread with respect to the core yarn group is 80%, the first heater temperature is 170 ° C., and the second heater temperature is 200 ° C., false twist number 1650 T / M (twisting direction Z), processing speed 50 m / min, overfeed rate between the first and second delivery rollers 8%, the core yarn group The false twisting process was performed with the combined yarn angle between the sheath yarn and the sheath yarn set to 60 degrees.
[0053]
As a result of observing the shape of the obtained processed yarn with an optical microscope, the core yarn group has a twisted shape, and the sheath yarn is wound around the outer periphery of the core yarn group once. Furthermore, the pressed yarn is intermittently formed into a triple winding, and although the processed yarn has a strong stiffness, it has poor natural spots and fluffiness and is a slab design with a triple winding structure. Because of its prominent nature, it was a relatively rough one like a kite string.
[0054]
Here, the obtained processed yarn has 9.7% Wooster spot and a bulk height of 2.25 cm. Three / G, bulky compression ratio of 33.3%. Moreover, as a result of creating the same knitted fabric as Example 1 using this processed yarn and carrying out the usual scouring and dyeing, the slab is conspicuous and does not exceed the category of conventional knitted yarn-like knitted fabrics. It was a thing.
[0055]
(Comparative Example 2)
Yarn processing was performed using the manufacturing method described in JP-A-3-14642.
Polyester normal pressure dyeable multifilament bright 84 dtex 48 filaments as core yarn, triacetate multifilament bright 167 dtex 40 filament as first sheath yarn, and polyester high shrinkage multifilament 33 dtex 24 filament as second sheath yarn (boiling water shrinkage) Rate: 18%), the first sheath yarn is supplied to the core yarn at an overfeed rate of 25%, and the core yarn is wound in a single and alternating twist continuously, and the outside The second sheath yarn was fed around the substrate at an overfeed rate of 80% and continuously wound.
[0056]
The first heater temperature is 170 ° C., the second heater temperature is 200 ° C., the number of false twists is 1650 T / M (twisting direction Z), the processing speed is 50 m / min, the first delivery roller to the second delivery roller. False twisting was performed with an overfeed rate of 8%.
[0057]
As a result of observing the thread form of the obtained processed thread with an optical microscope, the entire thread exhibited a tight structure, and the visual thickness spots were substantially eliminated, resulting in a natural patchy feeling and a fluffy feeling. Some textures were scarce.
Here, the obtained processed yarn was 9.4% Wooster spots and a bulk height of 2.22 cm. Three / G, bulky compression rate of 26.7%. Further, a knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was prepared using this processed yarn, and as a result of carrying out conventional scouring and dyeing, the texture with natural spots and fluffiness was poor.
[0058]
From the above results, the present invention uses natural fibers such as spun yarns composed of natural fibers, using chemical fiber multifilaments with features such as good productivity, quality maintenance and ease of adding special functions. Spun-toned yarns that have speckled feeling, squeaky feeling, and firmness, and that are excellent in convergence, can be manufactured with high productivity, and woven and knitted fabrics containing the span-toned yarn are also subjected to conventional scouring and dyeing. It is a woven or knitted fabric that has both natural spots, fluffiness and stiffness, and has a high industrial contribution, and its significance is extremely large.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a typical embodiment of a method for producing a spanned yarn according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
A Yarn (core yarn)
B Yarn (single wound structure yarn)
C yarn (single wound structure yarn)
D Yarn (Triple wound structure yarn)
5 Magnet Tensor
6 Guide
7 Feed roller
8 Guide
9 Feed roller
10 Guide
11 Feed roller
12 Guide
13 First heater
14 False twisting unit
15 First Deliberry Roller
16 Second heater
17 Second Deli Berry Roller
18 Winder
θB Yarn angle of yarn B with respect to yarn A
θC Yarn angle of yarn C relative to yarn A

Claims (5)

化学繊維マルチフィラメントからなる4本の糸条A〜Dにより構成されたスパン調加工糸であって、
糸条Aを芯糸として糸条B及び糸条Cがそれぞれ1重捲回構造を有し、
糸条Dが間歇的に3重捲回構造を形成しながら、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に捲回されてなる、
ことを特徴とするスパン調加工糸。
A spanned yarn composed of four yarns A to D made of chemical fiber multifilament,
Yarn B and Yarn C each having single winding structure with Yarn A as the core yarn,
The yarn D is wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B and the yarn C while intermittently forming a triple winding structure.
Spun tone processed yarn characterized by that.
ウースター斑が9%以上20%以下、嵩高度が2.3cm3 /g以上3.0cm3 /g以下、嵩高圧縮率が25%以上50%以下であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のスパン調加工糸。The Worcester spot is 9% or more and 20% or less, the bulk height is 2.3 cm 3 / g or more and 3.0 cm 3 / g or less, and the bulky compressibility is 25% or more and 50% or less. Spanned yarn. 芯糸に対して鞘糸及び押糸を過剰供給する仮撚加工において、
糸条Aを仮撚加撚域へ供給すること、
糸条Aに対して糸条Bを1重捲回すること、
さらに糸条A及び糸条Bの外周囲に糸条Cを1重捲回させること、及び
糸条Dを、糸条A、糸条B及び糸条Cの外周囲に間歇的に3重捲回させることを含んでなることを特徴とするスパン調加工糸の製造方法。
In false twist processing to supply sheath yarn and press yarn excessively to the core yarn,
Supplying the yarn A to the false twisting region;
Winding the yarn B once against the yarn A,
Further, the yarn C is wound once around the outer periphery of the yarn A and the yarn B, and the yarn D is intermittently triple wound around the outer periphery of the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C. A method for producing a spanned yarn comprising rotating the yarn.
糸条Aに対する糸条Bの合糸角度θB、及び糸条Aに対する糸条Cの合糸角度θCが20度以上80度以下であることを特徴とする請求項3に記載のスパン調加工糸の製造方法。The spanned yarn according to claim 3, wherein a combined yarn angle θB of the yarn B with respect to the yarn A and a combined yarn angle θC of the yarn C with respect to the yarn A are 20 degrees or more and 80 degrees or less. Manufacturing method. 請求項1又は2に記載されたスパン調加工糸を含んでなることを特徴とする織編物。A woven or knitted fabric comprising the spanned yarn according to claim 1 or 2.
JP2001244464A 2001-08-10 2001-08-10 Spun-tone processed yarn, method for producing the same, and woven / knitted fabric including the processed yarn Expired - Fee Related JP4787431B2 (en)

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