FR2709136A1 - Multicoloured textile yarn, textile article made from the said yarn, and method of obtaining it - Google Patents

Abstract

The main subject of the invention is a textile yarn with multicoloured effects, including regions of different colour one after another along its entire length. Characteristically, this is a spun yarn of short fibres with a titer less than 100tex; the length (D1, D2) of each coloured region (3, 4) is greater than about ten metres, and may reach several hundreds of metres; and the yarn includes transition zones (2) corresponding to the change from a region of a given colour (3) to an adjacent region of another colour (4), each transition zone (2) having a length of at least about ten centimetres and, from one end (2a) to the other (2b) exhibiting a variation of colour which is a substantially continuous blend of the two colours of the two adjacent regions (3, 4).

Description

MULTICOLORED TEXTILE YARN. REALIZED TEXTILE ARTICLE TARTIR
SAID WIRE AND METHOD FOR OBTAINING SAME
The present invention relates to a textile yarn with multicolored effects in that it has successive ranges of colors over its entire length. It also relates to textile articles with multicolored surface effects produced from said yarn. Finally, it relates to a process specially designed for the production of the aforementioned multicolored textile yarn.

 The growing importance of fashion pushes spinners to look for all kinds of fancy yarns. Among these, threads with multicolored effects have already been proposed along the length of which different colors succeed one another, either in the form of dots or even dotted lines, or in the form of ranges of greater lengths. Obtaining these multicolored effects results from an operation of the spraying, injection or printing type on the textile threads emerging from the spinning mills. This is a finishing operation, carried out either on a single thread or on a bundle of threads, comprising steps of heat setting, drying and winding. The articles produced using these multicolored yarns have a surface decoration, which is a function of the conditions under which they are used during the subsequent knitting or weaving operations. In particular, this decoration results in staining or blocking effects on the surface of the article.

 According to the applicant, a drawback of current multicolored yarns is that it is not possible to obtain an article having a real fade effect between all the colors used.

 Another drawback may consist in the appearance of unwanted geometric designs, which are due to the repetitive effect of sprays, injections or impressions on the wires.

 The aim set by the applicant is to propose a textile yarn with multicolored effects which overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks. This object is perfectly achieved thanks to the thread of the invention, which comprises successive ranges of colors over its entire length. Typically, it is a spun of short fibers with a count of less than 1 OOtex; the length of each colored area is greater than ten meters, up to several hundred meters; in addition, the yarn of the invention comprises transition zones corresponding to the passage from a range of a given color to an adjacent range of another color, each of said zones having a length of at least ten centimeters and having from one end to the other a variation of colors which is a substantially continuous fade of the two colors of the two adjacent ranges.

 Thus, according to the invention, the multicolored effects are obtained over very long distances, unlike all yarns currently on the market, and the transition from one color to another is also done over a significant distance, without breaking of colors but by a substantially progressive fade from one color to another. It is understood that under these conditions the textile article which is obtained by weaving or knitting of such a thread has a completely original surface decoration, linked to the two aforementioned characteristic parameters.

 According to a preferred embodiment, a small proportion of the constituent fibers of the yarn is colored, so that the ranges of colors are all of pastel shade.

 For example, in this case, in the case of a cotton / acrylic blend yarn, cotton being the majority, only the acrylic fibers are colored.

 In a particular embodiment, the textile yarn with multicolored effects of the invention also includes buttons of colored fibers, having the same color, but with greater color intensity, than that of the range in which they are located. This makes it possible to obtain on the article produced from such a thread a complementary decorative effect thanks to the contrasts, but in the same color, of the buttons relative to the corresponding colored zones.

 It is another object of the invention to propose a process specially designed for the production of the aforementioned multicolored textile yarn.

 This process comprises, in known manner, operations for preparing spinning, from fiber ribbons, on a drawing bench then on a spindle bench, and a spinning operation proper. Typically, it consists of a) previously printing a ribbon of short fibers along substantially juxtaposed longitudinal ranges, of different colors, each of the order of one centimeter to several tens of centimeters, b) and using said ribbon printed in the preparation circuit at the level of the last pass on a drawing bench.

 The printed ribbon undergoes a first stretching during this last passage on a stretching bench, then a second stretching on a spindle bench, and finally a third stretching during the spinning operation proper, on continuous spinning or on a spinning of the spinning type with released fibers for example. All of these successive stretchings have the effect, on the coloristic level, on the one hand of considerably lengthening the length of the colored areas, and on the other hand of attenuating the transition between two successive areas, by the formation of a much wider transition zone in which are found the fibers which were, in the printed ribbon, straddling the two areas.

 Preferably the cumulative drawing, obtained on the ribbon printed on the occasion of the last passage on a drawing bench, the passage on a spindle bench and the actual spinning is between 500 and 3000.

 When it is desired to obtain a multicolored yarn of pastel color, it suffices in the last pass on a drawing bench to introduce a ribbon printed according to the method of the invention with other non-printed ribbons, the weight proportion in printed ribbon being in the minority and between 5% and 50%.

 In addition to the original color effects which can be obtained on woven or knitted articles using the multicolored yarns of the invention, other advantages emerge clearly from what has just been presented. Firstly, in the case of a pastel-colored yarn, only a small proportion of material is to be dyed, contrary to what it is compulsory to do when the coloring technique occurs on the yarn emerging from spinning.

On the other hand, given that it is very easy to produce colored areas of several hundred meters in length, it also becomes possible to obtain on certain finished articles decorations of the successive stripe type using a same thread.

 The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment of a multicolored yarn with colored areas of great lengths and progressive transitions illustrated by the appended drawing in which - FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of a section of printed ribbon - Figure 2 is a schematic representation of a section of multicolored effect yarn according to the invention at the transition zone between two colored areas.

 The first object of the invention consists of a textile yarn with multicolored effects which is a spun of short fibers, with a titration of less than 10 000 tex (Nm 10). The multicolored effect results from the succession over the entire length of the wire of different color ranges of great lengths, these being greater than ten meters and possibly reaching several hundred meters.

 The multicolored yarn 1 according to the invention also includes transition zones 2, illustrated in FIG. 2. Each transition zone 2 separates two adjacent colored areas 3 and 4, respectively, of different colors.

 If the colored areas 3,4 have a length D1, D2 which is in the tens or even in the hundred meters, the transition zones 2 have, in turn, a length I which is in the tens of centimeters, even in meters. In addition, in terms of color, each transition zone 2 has the particularity of presenting, from one end 2a to the other 2b, a color which varies according to a substantially continuous fade of the two colors constituting the two adjacent areas respectively 3, 4. The length of the transition zone is greater in the case of a so-called oblique printing, which is due to a color change which is not clear during printing, as will be explained below.

 Thus it is understood that the section of wire corresponding to the transition zone 2 is made up of a certain quantity of fibers colored in the first color of range 3 and of a certain quantity of fibers colored in the second color of range 4 It is this proportion which will vary substantially continuously from one end 2a to the other 2b. In FIG. 2, the color is symbolized by hatching1 which are parallel and inclined in one direction for the colored area 3 and in the other direction for the adjacent colored area 4; the transition zone 2 therefore comprises hatching in both directions, the number of hatching in a given direction decreasing from one end 2a to the other 2b and vice versa for the other color.

 To make the above-mentioned wire 1, it is first necessary to print a short fiber ribbon 5 such as that which is illustrated in FIG. 1.

 It is, for example, but not limited to, a ribbon measuring approximately 5 μm and composed of short fibers approximately 40 mm in length and 1.5 tex of titration.

 Printing on this ribbon 5 is carried out according to different color ranges and of relatively short length. In the example illustrated in Figure 1 there is shown a ribbon 5 comprising a succession of areas of four different colors and each having different lengths. Of course, the ribbon can be colored by using less or more than four different colors with colored areas succeeding each other according to a regular repetition or, on the contrary, an irregular arrangement of the colors. In FIG. 1, five colored areas 6 to 10 are shown: a first area 6 of length d1 and of red color, a second area of color 7 of length d2 and of blue color, a third area of color 8 of length d3 and of purple, a fourth colored area 9 of length d4 and yellow and a fifth colored area 10 of length d, and of red color. The lengths d, to d4, of 1 are of the order of a centimeter to several tens of centimeters. The aforementioned colors are given by way of nonlimiting example. One of the areas may also be white, and correspond to an absence of coloring.

 When printing the ribbon 5 1, it is ensured that the areas 6 to 10 are well individualized with respect to each other, without there being too much overlap between two areas1 such an overlap materializing in a double printing on a certain amount of ribbon fibers. Given the large number of fibers in section of the printed ribbon, there is sometimes a so-called oblique impression, that is to say an impression during which the connection between two colored areas is not frankly perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the ribbon.

 Such a printing can be carried out for example using the method and the device which are described in the document FR.2209328, although these were initially intended only to print a bundle of wires in the form of a sheet.

 According to this known process, the ribbon is placed on a conveyor along a sinusoidal path or possibly in turns before passing between different printing rollers applying several printing baths on the ribbon. The arrangement of the printing parts of the printing rollers, as well as the choice of printing baths are provided to obtain successive colored areas over the entire length of the ribbon without excessive superimposition between the adjacent areas.

 After printing, the ribbon is subjected to a heat-setting and potting treatment.

 The printed ribbon 5 is used in the conventional short fiber spinning circuit. More precisely, it is introduced at the level of the last passage on a drawing bench.

 In a particular embodiment, of an acrylic ribbon of 5 g / m, this printed ribbon was introduced on the second drawing pass with five other cotton ribbons of 4 g / m. During this second pass, all of the ribbons were stretched 5.04. The ribbon obtained is then passed over a spindle bench where it has undergone a stretch of 8.27 and a low twist in order to obtain a wick of 0.6 g / m. The wick in question was used to feed a ring spinning continuous to obtain a 25tex thread (Nm 40), having undergone an additional drawing of 23.9 during the spinning operation proper.

 During all of these operations, the cumulative stretch rate was 996.

 In the case of a ribbon printed in four colors, as described above, there were on average thirteen colored areas per meter with lengths of areas which varied from 2.5 to 10 cm, this irregularly.

 After the various aforementioned stretching operations, not only was a weakening of the color intensity obtained, due to the mixing of the printed ribbon with the cotton ribbons, but also a particularly significant elongation of the colored areas since the areas initially making 2 , 5cm in the ribbon are transposed into ranges of 24.90m. As for those of 10cm on the ribbon, they have become ranges of 99.6m.

 We understand how the fade of colors can be obtained at the transition zones 2 thanks to the excellent mixing which results from the implementation of the short fiber preparation system.

 The use of a spinning system with turbines, of the open-end type instead of a ring spinning continuous, would still provide a better distribution of the mixture of colored fibers in the transition zones 2.

 The length of the transition zones 2 is a function of the cumulative rate of stretching and also of the quality of the printing of the ribbon at the level of the connections between two adjacent colored areas. In particular, they are longer in the case of oblique printing of the ribbon. In this case, the fibers which are, in the printed ribbon, straddling two colored areas are distributed over a section of the ribbon of greater length, which length is multiplied in the yarn by the cumulative drawing rate.

 The aforementioned 25tex thread can be used as it is, or also twisted into two identical ends, or twisted with an unbleached cotton thread of the same count.

 The applicant has made, with all of these threads, various articles, either by weaving or by knitting, intended in particular for the preparation of terry towels, socks, scarves ... Of course the coloristic effects vary very consistent according to the conditions of implementation of the multicolored yarn of the invention, either alone or with other yarns. We can notice for example that a terry towel woven on double chain loom with a thread two multicolored ends for the chain, presents as decoration a fine line, irregular, whose back is different from the place, with a richness and a fade in colors that cannot be obtained by printing. This is all the more true since the effects obtained can, depending on the printing mode of the ribbon 5, be non-repetitive so that each article is unique. This is all the more advantageous since this effect is obtained with only one wire.

 Regarding the realization of a sock from a thread a multicolored end of 25tex, it was knitted on a sock loom a fall. The sock produced has shade ranges of several centimeters with gradual and harmonious color change. Each sock, knitted from the same spool of yarn, is different from the previous and from the next while visually presenting the same coloristic effect. Their difference is therefore not an obstacle to their pairing.

 When you knit a sock in the same way with a two-end yarn, one end of which is in unbleached cotton, you get a similar result but with an even more pastel shade.

 Articles were produced on a 20 gauge circular loom, with 36 multicolored yarns of the invention. It was the same yarn, coming from the 5 g / m ribbon printed with the same four colors. This thread had been wound on thirty-six different spools. On the knitted fabric obtained, there is a set of small, multicolored stripes, the appearance of which gradually changes approximately every 25cm. When we make this same knitting but in a composition which allows a succession of white stripes and colored stripes, we realize that the colored stripes obtained using the multicolored yarn of the invention are all different, while keeping a coloristic effect with a homogeneous fade.

The present invention is not limited to the embodiment which has been described. We understand that it is possible to print the ribbon by any other technique than that provided for in the document.
FR2209328. In addition, it is within the reach of those skilled in the art to vary the number of colors, the length of the ranges and of the transition zones in the ranges provided so as to adapt the desired color effect on a certain type of article. , woven or knitted.

 Finally it is possible to use other materials than acrylic and cotton. The ribbon to be printed could be made of viscose, cotton, wool or synthetic fibers and in particular polyamide. Acrylic is however preferred insofar as it is solid on bleaching with hydrogen peroxide and over-dyeing of cotton.

 In a first interesting alternative embodiment, it is possible to provide a complementary decorative effect by making buttons on the ribbon, consisting of an agglomerate of fibers. When printing the buttons are also printed. On the other hand they do not undergo in the same way as the other fibers, the cumulative drawing during the various operations of preparation and spinning proper. Thus we find the colored buttons, with all their color intensity, which are trapped in the ranges of the multicolored thread of the invention corresponding to their own color. On the article produced by weaving or knitting there is therefore the presence of buttons of bright color which are positioned in zones of the same color but of pastel shade.

 In a second alternative embodiment also making it possible to obtain a decorative effect, the ribbon is made up of fibers of different fineness, and for example fibers of 1, Sdtex and 30dtex, or partly comprises effect fibers such as the so-called fibers shiny three-lobed.

The cumulative stretching during the various operations of preparation and actual spinning of the ribbon results in a less significant reduction in the color intensity of the coarsest fibers or of the effect fibers, compared to the weakening of the color intensity other fibers constituting the ribbon. We thus find in the multicolored yarn of the invention these larger fibers or these effect fibers with a bright color, which contrasts with the pastel shade of the other fibers.

 Without departing from the invention, it would also be possible during the last passage on a drawing bench to use not unbleached ribbons but colored ribbons, for example in a solid shade matching one of the colors of the printed ribbon. . This would accentuate the color intensity of the article obtained.

Claims (9)

1. Textile yarn with multicolored effects having different color ranges succeeding each other over its entire length, characterized in that it is a yarn of short fibers of titration less than 100tex, in that the length (Dt, D2 ) of each colored range (3,4) is greater than ten meters, up to several hundred meters, and in that it comprises transition zones (2) corresponding to the passage of a range of a color given (3) to an adjacent range of another color (4), each transition zone (2) having a length of at least ten centimeters and having from one end (2a) to the other (2b ) a variation of colors which is a substantially continuous fade of the two colors of the two adjacent areas (3,4). 2. Textile yarn according to claim 1 characterized in that the areas are pastel shades, only part of the fibers being colored. 3. Yarn according to claim 2 characterized in that it is a cotton / acrylic mixture yarn, of which only the acrylic fibers, minority, are colored. 4. Wire according to one of claims 2 or 3 characterized in that it comprises fiber buttons having the same color as the range in which they are located but of higher color intensity. 5. Yarn according to one of claims 2 or 3 characterized in that it consists of fibers of different titrations, or partly comprises effect fibers, the coarsest fibers or the effect fibers having an intensity more important coloristics. 6. Textile article with multicolored surface effects produced by weaving or knitting using one or more threads according to one of claims 1 to 5. 7. A process specially adapted for obtaining the textile yarn with multicolored effects according to claim 1, of the type comprising operations of preparation for spinning, from a fiber ribbon, on a drawing bench then on a spindle bench, and an actual spinning operation, characterized in that it consists of: a) previously printing a ribbon (5) of short fibers along longitudinal ranges (6-10) substantially juxtaposed, of different colors, each making order from one centimeter to several tens of centimeters, b) and using said printed ribbon (5) in the preparation circuit at the level of the last pass on a drawing bench. 8. Method according to claim 7 for obtaining a multicolored yarn of pastel colors according to claim 2 characterized in that in the last passage on a drawing bench, a ribbon printed with other non-ribbons is used printed, the proportion by weight of the printed ribbon being between 5 and 50%. 9. Method according to one of claims 7 or 8 characterized in that the cumulative drawing of the last passage on the drawing bench, the passage on the spindle bench and the actual spinning is between 500 and 3000.