JPH04185735A - Conjugate falsely twisted yarn having multicolor effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the title falsely twisted yarn of various natural tone, comprising plural kinds of multifilament yarns having different dyeability and yarn length, alternately having wound structure parts with one multifilament wound on the other and arranged structure parts made of both the multifilaments having different crimp degree. CONSTITUTION:Multifilament A1 dyeable with ionic dye and multifilament B1 undyeable with ionic dye are passed through a guide 1 and a guide 1', jointed by a condensing guide 2, fed through feed rollers 3 to an air jetting nozzle 4, simultaneously drawn and falsely twisted by a heater 6 and a false twisting spindle 7 between delivery rollers 5 and 8, and wound on a package C to give the objective conjugate false twisted yarn having multicolor effects wherein (a) wound structure parts of the yarn A wound on the periphery of the yarn B and (b) arranged structure parts in which the yarn A and the part B are laid side by side while showing crimps much more in the yarn A than in the yarn B are mutually formed and difference in yarn length between the yarn A and the yarn B is 3-13%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention is suitable for spun-like woven and knitted fabrics, and is particularly suitable for improving the surface changes and dyeability of woven and knitted fabrics, that is, having a natural tone with plenty of variation. This invention relates to a metachromatic composite false twisted yarn exhibiting metachromatic properties.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, as a composite false twisted yarn with improved dyeability, there is a processed yarn in which two types of discolored multifilament yarns are aligned, false twisted, and then mixed and entangled by interlacing. Since this processed yarn is a mixture and entanglement of single filament yarns with different dyeing properties, the different dyeing properties of this woven or knitted fabric have a monotonous marbling tone, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is not spun-like. . Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 61-28034, after an intertwining treatment of ionic dye-dyeable and ionic dye-undyable multifilament yarns with a difference in elongation of less than 50% at a degree of entanglement of 40 threads/m or more, A method of false twisting has been proposed. However, this proposal aims to achieve a color mixing effect by increasing the entanglement between single filaments, and therefore the different dyeing property is a monotonous marbled tone similar to the above-mentioned one. On the other hand,
As disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 49-47644, a two-layer composite plate twisted yarn with a spun-like texture is produced by aligning and false twisting two types of multifilament yarns with different elongations. Whether twisted or not, the shape of the yarn is substantially the same in the yarn length direction, and there is still something lacking in terms of surface changes of knitted fabrics. Further, there is a proposal, for example, in JP-A-2-1394-40, which improves the dyeability by applying the technology of this two-layer composite GI twisted yarn. This processed yarn is composed of two types of multifilament yarns with discoloration properties, and has converging parts and spread parts alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, but in the converging part, the core multifilament yarn is Because other multifilament yarns with metachromatic properties are wound together in a concentrated state, or the constituent single filaments are closely intertwined, the metachromatic properties still have a monotonous marbled tone, and when opened, Since the core part is covered with opened filament single yarn, the foreign dyeing property is unclear and hazy.

As described above, with conventional cross-dyed composite false twisted yarns, it has not been possible to obtain the surface path and cross-dye properties of woven or knitted fabrics, which are rich in variations resulting from yarn unevenness peculiar to spans.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention improves the drawbacks of the conventional heterochromatic composite textured yarn, and when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has a spun-like texture and has a particularly natural and varied texture. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn exhibiting dyeability and surface change.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object. That is, the present invention provides a composite false twisted yarn composed of a multifilament yarn A and a multifilament yarn B, in which the multifilament yarn A is substantially wound around the multifilament yarn B in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. a structure, and an aligned structure in which the multifilament yarn A has a larger crimp than the multifilament yarn B, so that the multifilament yarn A is substantially arranged side by side with the multifilament yarn B. one of the multifilament yarns A and B is dyeable with ionic dyes, the other is non-dyeable with ionic dyes, and the composite false twisted yarn is formed alternately. This polyester heterochromatic composite false twisted yarn is characterized in that the difference in yarn length between the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B is 3 to 13%. In addition, in the present invention, "
"Multifilament yarn that is undyable to ionic dyes"
A multifilament yarn made by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate or a small amount of a third component (for example, isophthalic acid, anopic acid, propylene glycol, etc.) that has no affinity for ionic dyes with ionic dyes such as acid dyes and basic dyes. A general term for substances that are not substantially dyed by On the other hand, "multifilament yarn dyeable with ionic dyes" refers to polyester containing groups dyeable with ionic dyes (e.g. sulfonate groups) in the molecule or polymers dyeable with ionic dyes ( A general term for multifilament yarns made of polyester (for example, nylon 6, nylon 66, etc.) or polyester blended with additives, which are well dyed with ionic dyes. As a polyester dyeable with such ionic dyes, in particular, sodium isophthalate-5-sulfonate is used as an acid component in a range of 0.5 to
Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate containing about 10 mol% is preferred.

The present invention will be explained below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a side model view of the metachromatic composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. In the figure, A is a multifilament yarn with a longer yarn length, B is a multifilament yarn with a shorter yarn length,
In the yarn length direction, (a) is a wound structure where multifilament yarn A is substantially wrapped around multifilament yarn B, and (b) is a wound structure where multifilament yarn A is essentially wound around yarn B.
is a pulled structure in which the multifilament yarn A is substantially arranged side by side with the multifilament yarn B while having a larger crimp than the multifilament yarn B. [Multifilament in the above-mentioned winding structure] ・Substantially winding around yarn A or multifilament yarn B means that each single filament of multifilament yarn A is almost bundled and wound around multifilament yarn B, but multifilament This means that a small portion of single filament yarns of filament yarn A are mixed with multifilament yarn B. Similarly, in the above-mentioned alignment structure, the fact that the multifilament yarns A are substantially arranged side by side with the multifilament yarns B means that each single filament yarn of the multifilament yarns A has crimps, but is almost bundled into the multifilament yarn. Although it is arranged on the lateral side of the filament yarn B, it means that a small portion of single filament yarns are mixed with the multifilament yarn B. The winding structure portions and the pulling structure portions are alternately distributed in the yarn length direction.

Multifilament Yarn A and Multifilamen] - One of Yarn B is dyeable with ionic dyes, and the other is undyable with ionic dyes, so for example, when dyed with cationic dyes, it becomes Multifilament Yarn A. Multifilament yarn B exhibits discoloration, but since the composite structure of both multifilament yarn A and multifilament yarn B is different in the wound structure and the aligned structure, different patterns of discoloration are observed. show. That is, as can be seen from Fig. 1, in the wound structure part (a), heterochromy appears at the winding pitch a of the multifilament yarn, so it exhibits a pattern of fine pitch heterochromia, and when it is aligned The structural part (b) generally exhibits a heterochromatic pattern with a rougher pitch than the above. Therefore, the metachromatic composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention has a fine pattern of metachromaticity and a coarse pattern of metachromatic nature mixed and dispersed in the yarn length direction, making it possible to exhibit a wide variety of metachromatic properties as a whole. . Unlike the present invention, for example, (
With the false twisted yarn formed only in the wound structure part (a), only a monotonous marbled pattern of cross-dyeness can be obtained, but by mixing and dispersing three parts with different patterns of cross-dyeness as in the present invention, it is possible to obtain a unique characteristic of the span. It is possible to add a foreign color effect to the natural spots. Furthermore, the coexistence of the rolled structure and the aligned structure changes the surface of the knitted fabric, making it possible to give it a spun-like texture.

In other words, since the pulling structure has the multifilament yarn A with large crimp on the side of the yarn, the apparent thickness of the yarn is smaller than that of the wound structure where the multifilament yarn A is wound around the multifilament yarn B. In addition, even in this aligned structure, sometimes multifilament yarn A appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and sometimes multifilament yarn B, which has almost no crimp, appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.As a result, the woven or knitted fabric becomes larger. Can give surface changes. This surface change is thought to be caused not only by the above-mentioned differences in the apparent thickness of the yarn and the size of crimp, but also by the difference in the torque of the yarn between the wound structure and the non-wound structure. The proportion of the alignment structure in the yarn length direction is preferably 10% or more and 50% or less. If it is less than 10%, the effect of the present invention will not be achieved,
If it exceeds 50%, the pattern of foreign dyeing may become too coarse in pitch and the quality may deteriorate. Further, it is preferable that the single length of the alignment structure, that is, its continuous length, is 10 fins or less. This is because if the continuous length exceeds 10, the pitch becomes too large and may appear as a streaky defect, which may degrade the quality.

It is necessary that the yarn length difference between multifilament yarn A and multifilament yarn B in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is 3% or more and 13% or less. If the yarn length difference is less than 3%, the woven or knitted fabric will lose its spun-like texture, and if it exceeds 13%, the woven or knitted fabric will not only become bulky, but also cause multifilament yarn A to become multifilament yarn B in the wound structure. This is because the degree of winding becomes too large and the multifilament yarn B is often covered with the multifilament yarn A, which weakens the different dyeing effect. The difference in yarn length is calculated as follows: When a composite false twisted yarn of unit length is separated into multifilament yarn A and multifilament yarn B, and the lengths of A1B under a load of 0.1 g/d are LA and Lii, (LA- LB)X
This is a value calculated as 100/LB (%).

FIG. 2 is a schematic side view of an apparatus for producing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. It should be noted that FIG. 2 shows an example of a manufacturing apparatus, and of course, it is not limited to this. In FIG. 2, A, , and B are undrawn polyester yarns, which are subjected to false twisting as described below to become multifilament A1 and multifilament B, respectively, of composite false twisted yarn.

One of the undrawn yarns A1 and B1 is dyeable with ionic dyes, and the other is non-dyeable with ionic dyes. Further, the undrawn yarn A has a higher elongation than the undrawn yarn B+. The undrawn yarns A, B1 are brought together via the respective guides 1.1' in the converging guide 2 and fed via the feed roller 3 to the air injection nozzle 4. Next, the material is stretched and simultaneously false-twisted between the first delivery roller 5 and the second delivery roller 8 by a heater 6 and a false-twisting spindle 7. Next, the yarn is wound up into a package C driven by a take-up roller 9 to obtain the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. The manufacturing method will be described in more detail below.

In order to obtain the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the elongation of the undrawn yarn A should be 150% or less, and the difference in elongation between the undrawn yarn A and the undrawn yarn B1 should be 30% to 90%. It is essential. As is conventionally known, undrawn yarn A'1, which is generally known for its elongation
When the undrawn yarn B'1 with a small elongation is aligned and false twisted simultaneously, the undrawn yarn A'1 tends to be stretched in the heating region, so a tension difference occurs between the two yarns, and as a result, the undrawn yarn 13 A' is wrapped around the multifilament of + and heated.
In the subsequent untwisting region, there are parts where ffJ is locally ununiformly untwisted and the twist in the heating region remains, and a part where the twist in the untwisting direction remains due to over-untwisting, resulting in undrawn yarn Bl,
The undrawn yarn A'1 is wound around the composite yarn with the twisting direction reversed, resulting in a composite yarn having the same form as that shown in FIG. 1(a). However, in the present invention, the elongation difference between undrawn yarn A and B1 is as small as 30% to 90%, and the elongation of undrawn yarn A is 15%.
Since it is an undrawn yarn with an intermediate orientation of 0% or less, the undrawn yarn A1 progresses in crystallization in the heating region due to the stretching between the delivery rollers 5 and 8 and the heat treatment by the heater 6, and therefore the undrawn yarn A1 is caused by winding. The twist is strongly set. Therefore, in the next untwisting region, unlike in the case of the undrawn yarns A'I and B'H, which have a large difference in elongation, there are some areas where local untwisting does not occur properly, and the twisting in the heating region The untwisting occurs continuously while maintaining the crimp caused by the twisting, and the alignment structure shown in FIG. 1(b) is generated in a partially dispersed manner.

The reason for the occurrence of partial dispersion is not clear, but it is thought to be caused by subtle fluctuations in the heating region, such as fluctuations in processing tension and fluctuations in migration of each filament. Although the mixing of undrawn yarns by the air injection nozzle 4 in FIG. 2 is not necessarily necessary, it is desirable as a disturbance that further induces the above-mentioned fluctuations. Although other methods of applying disturbance may be used, mixing fibers using an air injection nozzle is preferable from the viewpoint of operational stability and quality stability. However, since this mixed fiber also affects the foreign dye pattern, it is preferable to adjust and apply the air pressure to the air injection nozzle as appropriate depending on the required foreign dye pattern.

That is, when emphasizing the discoloration of a fine pattern, the air pressure is increased to increase the degree of mixing and intertwining of undrawn yarns A1 and B1, and conversely, when emphasizing the discoloration of a coarse pattern, the air pressure is lowered. The degree of mixing and intertwining of the undrawn yarns A1 and B may be reduced. However, if the degree of blending and entangling is increased too much, it will be difficult to form the aligned structure, so undrawn yarn A is used.

It is preferable that the degree of mixing and entangling of the fibers and the undrawn yarn B is 40 pieces/m or less.

Further, in the present invention, undrawn yarn A and undrawn yarn B1
Since the difference in elongation is small, the difference in tension between the two yarns in the heating region is small. Therefore, due to the migration of each filament single yarn due to heating, a small portion of the single filament yarns of multifilament yarn A become the same as those of multifilament yarn B. It will mix with B without wrapping around it. This mixture of filament single yarns remains even after untwisting, and this is the same in both the wound structure and the aligned structure. As a result, multifilament yarn A and multifilament yarn B are not completely separated even in the aligned structure, so that the yarn remains stable even when subjected to external forces such as abrasion in subsequent processes such as knitting and weaving. Maintains the shape of the thread. The number of false twists can be selected from the normal number of false twists, but
The false-twisting temperature is preferably 180"C or higher from the viewpoint of the robustness of the false-twisted crimp. The stretching ratio is appropriately selected depending on the undrawn yarn used, and the elongation of the composite false-twisted yarn is set to 20% to 40%. is preferred.

(Example) Example 1゜Sodium isophthalate-5-sulfonate copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun in a conventional manner, and
It was wound up in a winder at a take-up speed of 00 m/min. In this way, a cationic dye dyeable undrawn yarn A having a density of 85 den/36 stitches 1 and an elongation of 110% was obtained. Further, polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun in a conventional manner and wound up in a winder at a take-up speed of 4000 m/min. Thus 85de
A cationic dye-undyed undrawn yarn B1 having n/24f+I and an elongation of 65% was obtained. These two types of undrawn yarns At and Bt were subjected to false twisting using the apparatus shown in FIG. The processing conditions were: overfeed rate to the air injection nozzle 0.5%, air pressure of the air injection nozzle 1, 0 kg/c4-G, stretching ratio 1
．． 15. Heater temperature 200″C1 false twist number 2500T/
m 1 winding speed was 150 m/min. The composite false twisted yarn 150 den/60 fil thus obtained had a yarn form as shown in the model diagram shown in FIG. 1, and the yarn length difference was 7%. When the composite false twisted yarn was knitted with an interlock structure on a 30-inch, 22-gain circular knitting machine and dyed with a cationic dye, it exhibited natural and varied discoloration, and the texture of the knitted fabric also improved on the surface. It has a span-like texture that is rich in variation.

Comparative Example 1 Sodium isophthalic acid-5-sulfonate copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun in a conventional manner, and 21
It was wound up in a winder at a take-up speed of 00 m/min. In this way, a cationic dye-dyeable undrawn yarn having a density of 85 den/36 fil and an elongation of 173% was obtained.

Polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun in a conventional manner and wound into a winder at a take-up speed of 4000 m/min. Thus 85 den/24 fil, elongation 6
An undrawn yarn undyed with 5% cationic dye was obtained.

These two types of undrawn yarns were subjected to a twisting process using the same equipment as in the example. The processing conditions are an overfeed rate of 0.5% to the air injection nozzle, and an air pressure of the air injection nozzle of 4 kg/c4.
-G1 stretch ratio was 1.15, heater temperature was 200° C., number of false twists was 2500 T/m, and winding speed was 150 ml/min. The thus obtained composite false twisted yarn 150den/B Ofil
had a wound structure over almost the entire yarn length direction, and the yarn length difference was 18%. When the composite false-twisted yarn was knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, the different dyeing properties were a monotonous marbled tone, and the texture of the knitted fabric was also poor in surface change, making it insufficient as a different dyed spun-like knitted fabric. It was something.

(Effects of the Invention) The metachromatic composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is made up of two types of multifilament yarns that are metachromatic to each other, and the composite form changes in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, resulting in natural unevenness. It is ideal for use as a material for spun-like woven and knitted fabrics as it can impart a wide variety of different dyeing properties and surface changes.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side model view of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a front view of the manufacturing apparatus. A...Multifilament yarn with longer thread length, B...
・Multifilament yarn with shorter yarn length, A+1B+・
...Polyester undrawn yarn, 3...Feed roller, 4...Air injection nozzle, 5...Delivery roller, 7...False twist spindle.

Claims (1)

[Claims] In a composite false twisted yarn composed of multifilament yarn A and multifilament yarn B, a wound structure portion in which the multifilament yarn A is substantially wound around the multifilament yarn B in the longitudinal direction of the yarn; Aligned structures in which the multifilament yarn A has a larger crimp than the multifilament yarn B, and the multifilament yarn A is substantially arranged side by side with the multifilament yarn B are alternately formed. , the multifilament yarn A
Either one of the multifilament yarns B is dyeable with ionic dyes, the other one is undyable with ionic dyes, and the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarns in the composite false twisted yarn are Thread length difference with thread B is 3~
A heterochromatic composite false-twisted yarn characterized in that it is 13%.