JPS6142011B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides two
The present invention relates to a layered yarn and a method for producing the same.

Generally, when two or more yarns with different elongations are combined, fed to a supply roller, and twisted with a false twisting spindle, the core of the yarn is Since yarns with high elongation are easy to stretch, they are twisted so as to surround the outer layer of the yarn.
When this twisted yarn state is heat-set and then untwisted, a two-layered crimped yarn is obtained in which yarns with low elongation act as a core and yarns with high elongation surround the core in an alternately twisted manner. .

Incidentally, the purpose of such a textured yarn structure is to improve the drawbacks of woven or knitted fabrics made of ordinary false-twisted crimped yarns. In other words, woven or knitted fabrics made from ordinary false twisted yarns have a plastic-like texture, are cold, lack the warm feel of spun yarns, and have an appearance that is
It has uniform dyeability and thickness, is artificial, and lacks the natural look of spun yarn. In order to eliminate these drawbacks, the present inventors first proposed the above-mentioned two-layer structured yarn, and as a result, in terms of texture, the drawbacks of conventional processed yarns were improved and warm spun-like woven and knitted fabrics were obtained. We have confirmed that this is possible. However, in terms of appearance, it has been found that the dyeability, thickness, etc. of the threads are uniform, so it has not yet been possible to break away from the artificial appearance of conventionally processed threads.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a spun-like two-layer structured yarn suitable for producing a woven or knitted fabric having a spun-like texture and a natural marbling-like or kasuri-like dyed appearance. It is in.

The present inventors conducted various studies in an attempt to achieve the above object. That is, in order to introduce a change in the dyeability of processed yarn, first of all, the generally considered main conditions of false twisting, namely processing speed, processing temperature, processing tension, and number of false twists, are varied in as little time as possible. We considered the method. However, the dyeing change of the processed yarn obtained as a result is a long-period dyeing shade change, and the appearance of the fabric is not marble-like or kasuri-like, but only a so-called tiger step pattern. I couldn't get it. Therefore, in the process of considering various other methods, we found that by false twisting,
We discovered that by changing the elongation rate of the yarns that make up the outer layer during twisting, it is possible to create dyeing shading changes that correspond to the elongation rate without causing the so-called tiger step, and we have developed a method to change the dye density according to the elongation rate. The present invention was achieved by successfully utilizing intermittent confounding processing as a means for achieving this goal.

Thus, according to the present invention, a) the filament yarns constituting the sheath portion are wound in an alternately twisted manner around the filament yarn constituting the core portion, and a portion of both filament yarns is wound at the boundary between the core portion and the sheath portion; (a) a deep-dyeable conjugated structure formed by mixing and crossing each other to form an entangled part, and (b) substantially no entanglement between the threads forming the core part and the threads forming the sheath part. , and (2) a spun-like two-layer structured yarn characterized in that the yarn constituting the sheath portion comprises a light-dyed non-conjugated structure portion that protrudes in the cross-sectional direction compared to the conjugated structure portion; and (2) Two or more types of filament yarns that can be drawn at a draw ratio of at least 1.2 times and have a difference in elongation of at least 80% are subjected to interlacing treatment, and the conditions of the interlacing treatment are intermittently varied at that time. Spun-like type 2 characterized by subjecting the fibers to simultaneous stretching, false twisting and crimp processing at a stretching ratio of 1.2 times or more with the fibers being intermixed with each other to form entangled portions and substantially unentangled portions. Manufacturing method for layered yarn.

is provided.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail.
When two or more yarns with different elongations are combined and false-twisted, the yarn with lower elongation is difficult to stretch, so it forms the core of the yarn, and the yarn with high elongation is difficult to stretch. Because it is easy to twist, it is twisted and stretched by the twisting force to form a sheath that surrounds the outer layer, so in some way the yarn with high elongation is twisted to surround the core yarn with a varying degree of elongation. It is based on the idea that by twisting, the dyeing rate can be changed depending on the elongation. Therefore, the method specifically adopted for changing the elongation twist degree is to subject yarns with small elongation and yarns with high elongation to the interlacing process, and at that time, intermittentally vary the conditions of the interlacing process to mix them with each other. This is a method in which the fibers are formed into intertwined portions and substantially non-entangled portions, and the resulting yarn bundle is subjected to false twisting and crimping processing. In this case, the mixed fibers and intertwined portions have a small degree of freedom of deformation of the yarns with high elongation, so the degree of elongation and torsion deformation is small.
On the other hand, in areas where there is no entanglement, the degree of elongation torsional deformation is large because the degree of freedom of deformation of the yarn with high elongation is large, and when the resulting processed yarn is dyed, the area where the outer layer yarn has less elongation torsion deformation. The fabric is dyed darkly, and areas with a lot of deformation are dyed light, resulting in a marbling or smudge effect on the woven or knitted fabric, giving it a spun, natural-looking appearance.

Therefore, as a result of various studies on how to make use of the dark dyeing and light dyeing of the processed yarn obtained for the appearance of woven and knitted fabrics, we found that it was not only the effect of the dyeing pattern, but also the effect of the interlacing process that affected the shape of the yarn. It was found that stability was greatly improved and troubles during weaving were extremely reduced. In other words, in the conventional alternately twisted and wound yarn that simply utilizes the elongation difference, there is no conjugation between the core yarn and the outer layer yarn, so when the yarn is subjected to ironing during the twisting and weaving process, the neps are However, it has been found that as the number of intertwined sections increases, such troubles decrease.

Therefore, at first we thought of adding entanglement to some parts in order to generate different dyeing areas, but rather, we decided to make the part to which entanglement is applied the basic yarn structure, and the part that does not have entanglement. The results showed that it is better to use an effect structure that gives a dyeing difference effect.

However, since the basic structure includes the entangled portion, this has an undesirable effect on the texture. In other words, intertwining the two types of raw yarns to be supplied will result in the yarns being mixed together, and even if raw yarns with different elongations are simply supplied, the core and It is not possible to obtain a two-layered yarn that constitutes the sheath (outer layer). In conventional piling and false twisting, no force was exerted to inhibit each other's elongation deformation, so if the difference in elongation was as much as 50%, a two-layered structure could be created.However, as in the present invention, In the case where two yarns are intertwined, even if raw yarns with different elongations are simply twisted together, a two-layer structure cannot be formed because deformation is inhibited by the intertwining.

In order to solve this problem, various studies were conducted on the deformation behavior of the false-twisted part, and it was found that the elongation of the yarn used greatly contributed.
The relationship between the characteristics of the supplied yarn and the yarn deformation process in the false twisting section will be explained below.

In order to obtain a wrapped two-layer twisted yarn structure by interlacing two or more raw yarns with different elongations and then twisting them using a false twisting tool, the yarn with lower elongation must be drawn and false twisted. At the same time, it is also necessary that the elongation difference between the yarns to be combined be 80% or more. Since the interlaced yarn is a mixture of two yarns with different elongation, it is difficult to form a two-layer structure even if the yarn is twisted as is. However, this problem can be solved by supplying a yarn that can be drawn and false-twisted to the yarn with lower elongation. In other words, by false-twisting and twisting at the same time as drawing, the yarns with different elongations that are integrated by the interlacing process can be roughly seen to have a difference in elongation characteristics with respect to the false-twisting tension of both yarns. While the filaments are separated again into a high tension filament group and a low tension filament group, some of the fibers of both groups become partially intertwined yarns in the length direction, which are twisted by a false twisting device. From this point of view, it is essential that the filament yarn with lower elongation can be drawn and false-twisted at least 1.2 times, but the drawing ratio is
The most favorable results are obtained when the ratio is 1.4 times or more. Furthermore, at this time, in order to obtain a wound two-layer twisted yarn structure, the magnitude of the difference in elongation between the two yarns is related, and a larger difference in elongation than conventionally known is required. In other words, if there is no entanglement, the difference in elongation between the two yarns is 50%.
If there is a certain degree, it will be enough to have a two-layer structure, but if the interlacing treatment is used, a difference in elongation of 80% or more is required.
In particular, more favorable results can be obtained if the elongation difference is 150% or more.

In this way, by providing a large elongation difference between the two yarns, the separation of the mixed fiber yarn into two layers due to drawing becomes apparent, and a two-layer twisted yarn structure is created in the cut and twisted region. As a result, by untwisting the twisted yarn, a two-layer structured yarn with alternately twisted and wound layers is obtained. Of course, non-entangled portions for producing a dyeing difference effect can also exhibit the desired effect.

In addition, in order to obtain a conjugated structure having entanglements, the number of entanglements added to the yarn is 40 or more per meter (at most 90 per meter).
m) is preferred, and the length of each intertwined portion is preferably long. On the other hand, in order to obtain a non-conjugated structure that can be lightly dyed, the length of substantially non-entangling imparted to the raw yarn is approximately 1.5 to 2 cm when aiming for a marbling tone, and approximately 3 to 5 cm when aiming for a dull tone. . The number of unentangled portions may be appropriately selected depending on the desired appearance of the woven or knitted fabric, but in general, about 3 to 15 pieces/m is appropriate. The number of entanglements imparted to the yarn and the length of the unentangled portion are measured as follows. That is, when the entangled yarn is floated in water in a container,
The number of intertwined points and the length and number of unentangled parts can be visually read by taking advantage of the property that the fibers are opened to a thickness several times larger in the unentangled part and not opened at the intertwined points.

An embodiment of the present invention will be explained with reference to FIG. The two yarns 1 and 1' having different elongations are combined by a guide 2, passed through a tension adjustment device 3 and a feed roller 4, and then supplied to an air injection nozzle 5 for mixing and entangling. The yarn is an interlaced yarn having more than 1/M interlaced points and an appropriate number of non-entangled portions of about 2 to 5 cm. Here, the unentangled portion can be created by varying the pneumatic pressure or thread treatment tension of the air injection nozzle, or by selecting and using a nozzle with uneven injection. Next, this intertwined yarn is supplied to a drawing false twisting zone by a first delivery roller 6, passes through a heater 7 and a false twisting tool 8, is taken up by a second delivery roller 9, and then wound up as a cheese 11.

As for the combination of two or more types of filament yarns in the present invention, the yarn with lower elongation is a yarn that can be drawn and false-twisted at least 1.2 times, and the yarn with higher elongation is further Use yarn that can be stretched by 80% or more. Most preferably, the yarn with lower elongation is a partially oriented filament yarn with an elongation of 100% or more and a draw ratio of 1.4 times or more can be adopted, and the yarn with higher elongation is an undrawn yarn with an elongation of over 250%. Use a combination of

Furthermore, in the present invention, "filament yarn" means a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament yarn, and in particular polyethylene terephthalate is the main target, but it may also be one copolymerized with a third component in a proportion of 15 mol% or less. The polyester may also contain additives such as matting agents, colorants, flame retardants, and the like.

Further, although the undrawn yarn and the partially oriented yarn may have the same filament cross-sectional shape, content of matting agent, presence or absence of colorant, etc., at least any of these may be different.

The denier of the undrawn yarn and partially oriented yarn should be selected depending on the application, but generally the total denier is preferably 2:1 to 1:2 in the ratio of wound yarn to core yarn, and the former is 75 ~350de, the latter 50~
Preferably it is 250 de. In addition, considering the draw ratio during processing, the single fiber denier should be a combination where the single fiber denier after processing is the wrapped yarn ≦ the core yarn, and the single fiber denier of the wrapped yarn after processing is 3 de or less, the core yarn It is particularly preferable that the single yarn denier is 3 de or more. By combining the yarns as described above, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that has bulk, a soft feel on the surface, elasticity, and resilience.

In addition, as the air injection nozzle, commonly used interlace processing nozzles are suitable.
Interlace nozzles and Taslan nozzles that have characteristics that cause interlace irregularities can also be applied. Further, the material may be wound up once after the interlace treatment, or may be false-twisted without being wound up.

The false twisting device can be a spindle wound around a twist pin, or an internal or external friction false twisting device, but depending on the type of false twisting device and processing speed,
The degree of protrusion of the unconjugated outer layer yarn in the yarn cross-sectional direction of the resulting processed yarn is different. That is, in terms of false twisting devices, the friction false twisting method is better than the twist pin method, and the higher the processing speed, the greater the degree of twisting.

In addition, in order to make the texture of the resulting woven or knitted fabric even more spun-like, the yarn may be raised and a part of the yarn constituting the outer layer may be cut to give fluff. A method of rubbing the yarn in the false twisting part with a rough surface such as a grindstone, or a method of using a false twisting device in which a part of the twisting disk of a friction false twisting device is coated with diamond particles or tungsten carbide, etc. According to

Next, the textured yarn structure of the present invention will be explained.
FIGS. 2, 3, and 4 are enlarged schematic side views of the processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 shows a typical alternate twist-wound structure. As shown in FIG. 2, in the processed yarn of the present invention, the filament yarn 15 constituting the sheath portion is wound around the filament yarn 14 constituting the core portion in an alternately twisted yarn manner, and the filament yarn 15 constituting the sheath portion is wound in an alternately twisted manner, and the filament yarn 15 constituting the sheath portion is wound around the filament yarn 14 constituting the core portion. A part of both filament yarns are mixed and intertwined with each other at the boundary part to form an intertwined part 12, and the thread 14 forming the core part and the thread 15' forming the sheath part. It consists of a non-combined structure part 13 in which there is substantially no entanglement in the fibers, and the threads constituting the outer layer part protrude in the cross-sectional direction compared to the combined structure part. When this processed yarn is dyed, the conjugated structure portions 12 are dyed darkly, and the non-conjugated structure portions 13 are dyed light. In more detail, the conjugated structure portion 12 and the non-conjugated structure portion 13 will be explained.

One of the characteristics of the conjugated structure is the alternately twisted structure surrounding its outer layer. That is, as shown in Fig. 2, the alternating twist constantly changes in the S direction and the Z direction (this is called continuous alternating reversal), and has several long cycles in the S direction or Z direction. There are almost no wrapped parts. This is one of the points that differs from the conventional two-layer structure yarn in which yarns with different elongation are simply twisted together and subjected to a false twisting process. For comparison, the structure of a conventional two-layer yarn is shown in FIG. 5, which has a structure 17 in which it is wound several times in the S direction, then reversed and wound in the Z direction. In addition, in order to obtain such a two-layer structured yarn by simply doubling and false twisting raw yarns with different elongation, it is necessary to process carefully at a low speed of 40 m/min or less using a twist pin spindle false twisting device. There is. If processing is carried out at high speeds of 100 m/min or higher or using a friction false twisting device, the yarn forming the core and the yarn forming the outer layer may separate, resulting in a two-layer winding structure. cannot be obtained. In addition, when processing is performed using a twist pin type false twisting device at a speed of about 60 m/min, the overall structure has a two-layer structure with alternate twisting and winding, as shown in Figure 5.
It has a structure in which a part of the fiber opening part 18 is provided.

In the processed yarn of the present invention, the elongation difference raw yarn is mixed and entangled in advance, and false twisting is performed in that state. This does not mean that you will not be able to obtain it, but the second
As shown in the figure, the filaments of the outer layer yarn are not bundled and wound in an alternately twisted manner, but are separated to some extent as shown in Figure 3, and the overall tendency of the outer layer yarn is S. , Z may take a structure 12' in which the fibers are constantly reversed and wound alternately, and such a structure is likely to occur when the number of false twists is small or when the difference in elongation of the yarn is relatively small.

Next, the structure of the non-conjugated portion will be described. As shown in FIG.
5', there is virtually no entanglement between the core yarn and the outer layer yarn, and even if there is, some of the outer layer filaments are only slightly mixed with the core yarn. be. Furthermore, as shown in Fig. 5, a wrapped part 17 and a spread part 18 can be made in the conventional structured yarn depending on the processing conditions, but this processed yarn has a dyed part between 17 and 18 by dyeing. You can't get a difference.

Here, when a part of the yarn constituting the outer layer portion is cut and raised, a two-layer structured yarn having fluff as shown in FIG. 4 and similar to that shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 is obtained.

In addition, to obtain a marbled or smeared appearance by dyeing, for example, in the case of polyester, it is sufficient to dye it using ordinary disperse dyes, but if you want to create a sharp tone of light and shade, It is better to use a dye with a large molecular weight and relatively low level dyeing property.

As described above, according to the present invention, not only a spun-like woven or knitted fabric in both texture and appearance can be obtained, but also a two-layer textured yarn with improved weaving process properties.

Example 1 A polyester filament yarn (115 de/24 fils) with an elongation of 112% obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 3500 m/min and a polyester filament with an elongation of 350% obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min. (225 de/72 fils) were arranged and subjected to interlacing treatment and stretch false twisting process in the process shown in Fig. 1.

At that time, an average of 58 pieces/m with an overfeed rate of 3% and a compressed air pressure of 4.5 kg/cm ² using an interlace nozzle.
2 to 3 in length by instantly interrupting the supply of compressed air to the interlacing nozzle.
An average of 5 cm of unentangled parts/m was applied, and then the stretching ratio was 1.55 times, the ratio of the yarn speed (Vy) to the surface speed (Vr) of the friction false-twisting index (Vr/Vy) was 2.0, and the heater temperature was 170°C. , stretching and false twisting was performed with twisting in the Z direction at a yarn speed of 336 m/min.

The processed yarn thus obtained has a structure as shown in Fig. 2, and the binding part is a partial entanglement of 42 pieces/m between the yarn constituting the core and the yarn constituting the outer layer. The filament of the outer layer was constantly inverted alternately in the S and Z directions, and in rare cases had a portion wound several mm in length in the Z direction. There were an average of 5 unconjugated parts/m with a length of 3 to 5 cm. In addition, this yarn is used to weave and disperse dye Sumikaron Nary Blue S-2GL.
When dyed with this method, a spun-like fabric with a soft, span-like texture and a dull appearance was obtained.

Example 2 Polyester filament yarn (140 de/24 fils) with an elongation of 145% obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 2550 m/min and polyester filament yarn (140 de/24 fils) with an elongation of 350% obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min. 225de/72fils) were arranged and subjected to interlacing treatment and stretching false twist raising processing in the steps shown in FIG.

At that time, the interlace nozzle was used to provide 45 entanglements/m with an overfeed rate of 1.5% and a compressed air pressure of 3.5 kg/ ^cm2 , and by momentarily blocking the supply of compressed air to the interlace nozzle, the length was 1.5
An average of 7 unentangled parts/m of ~3 cm were applied, and then the stretching ratio was 1.89 times, the ratio Vr/Vy of the yarn speed (Vy) to the surface speed of the friction false-twisting disk (Vr) was 1.9, and the heater temperature was Stretching and false twisting was performed at 200°C and yarn speed of 355 m/min with twisting in the Z direction. In addition, by processing the first disk of the friction false-twisting disk using a disk coated with diamond particles with a roughness of 600 mesh, a part of the yarn surrounding the outer layer was cut and raised to give fluff. .

The processed yarn thus obtained is as shown in Figure 4, and is woven using a disperse dye Eastman.
The fabric dyed with Polyester Blue GLF was spun-like with a soft fluffy texture and a mixed marbled and smeared appearance.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing one embodiment of an apparatus for implementing the present invention. Figures 2 to 4 are schematic diagrams showing the thread structure of the present invention and are enlarged side views, and Figure 5 is an enlarged side view of the thread structure of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is an enlarged side view of a conventional two-layer yarn shown for comparison. 1, 1': Yarn, 2: Guide, 3: Tension device,
4: Feed roller, 5: Interlace nozzle, 6: First delivery roller, 7: Heater,
8: false twisting tool, 9: second delivery roller, 10: winding roller, 11: winding cheese, 12, 12': conjugated structure part, 13: non-conjugated structure part, 14: core yarn, 1
5, 15': outer layer yarn, 16: fluff, 17: winding structure section, 18: opening section.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 a The filament yarns constituting the sheath portion are wound in an alternately twisted manner around the filament yarn constituting the core portion, and a portion of the filament yarns constituting the sheath portion are wound around the filament yarns constituting the core portion, and a portion of the filament yarns constituting the sheath portion are wound around the filament yarn constituting the core portion. are mixed and intertwined with each other to form an intertwined part,
and b. There is substantially no entanglement between the threads forming the core and the threads forming the sheath, and the threads forming the sheath protrude in the cross-sectional direction compared to the binding structure. A spun-like two-layer structured yarn characterized by comprising a light dyed non-conjugated structure part. 2 Spun-like type 2 according to claim 1, in which a part of the yarn constituting the sheath portion is cut and raised to protrude from the yarn surface as a free end to form fluff.
Layered yarn. 3 Two or more types of filament yarns that can be drawn at a draw ratio of at least 1.2 times or more and have a difference in elongation of at least 80% are subjected to interlacing treatment, and at that time, the conditions of the interlacing treatment are intermittently adjusted. By varying the fibers and mixing them with each other,
A method for producing a spun-like two-layer structured yarn, characterized by subjecting it to simultaneous stretching, false twisting and crimp processing at a stretching ratio of 1.2 times or more while forming entangled portions and substantially unentangled portions. . 4 Spunlike-like 2 according to claim 3, wherein the length of the unentangled portion is 1.5 to 5 cm
Manufacturing method for layered yarn.