JP2732785B2 - Random-like pongee-like composite processed yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Random-like pongee-like composite processed yarn and method for producing the same

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Publication number
JP2732785B2
JP2732785B2 JP5238613A JP23861393A JP2732785B2 JP 2732785 B2 JP2732785 B2 JP 2732785B2 JP 5238613 A JP5238613 A JP 5238613A JP 23861393 A JP23861393 A JP 23861393A JP 2732785 B2 JP2732785 B2 JP 2732785B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
composite
triple
false
sheath
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
JP5238613A
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Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0797733A (en
Inventor
実 若林
俊昭 三浦
清 中川
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Textiles Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Textiles Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
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Priority to JP5238613A priority Critical patent/JP2732785B2/en
Publication of JPH0797733A publication Critical patent/JPH0797733A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2732785B2 publication Critical patent/JP2732785B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、少なくとも2本の熱可
塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントからなる自然感とふく
らみ感のある紬調複合加工糸及びその製造方法に関す
る。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a natural and swelling pongee-like composite processed yarn comprising at least two thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments and a method for producing the same.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】合成繊維を用いて紬調複合加工糸を得る
ことは、従来からいくつかの方法が提案されている。た
とえば特公昭61−31219号公報においては、2本
のポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いて、一方の糸の仮
撚加撚ゾーンに他方の糸を周期的に振動させつつ供給
し、その後仮撚加工することにより、一重巻付部分と三
重巻付部分を交互に形成した芯鞘糸を提案している。ま
た特公昭59−29689号公報においても、前記同様
2本のポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いて、一方の糸
の仮撚加撚ゾーンに他方の糸を周期的に振動させつつ過
剰に供給し、その後仮撚加工することにより、一重巻付
部分と三重巻付部分を交互に形成した芯鞘糸を提案して
いる。
2. Description of the Related Art Several methods have been proposed for obtaining a pongee-like composite processed yarn using synthetic fibers. For example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-31219, using two polyester filament yarns, the other yarn is supplied to the false twisting and twisting zone of one yarn while periodically vibrating, and then false twisting is performed. Has proposed a core-sheath yarn in which a single wound portion and a triple wound portion are alternately formed. Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-29689 also discloses that two polyester filament yarns are used in the same manner as described above, and one yarn is excessively supplied to the false twisting and twisting zone while periodically vibrating. A core-sheath yarn in which single-wound portions and triple-wound portions are alternately formed by twisting has been proposed.

【0003】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】しかしながら前記従来
の紬調複合加工糸は、一重巻付部分と三重巻付部分を交
互に形成した芯鞘糸ではあるものの、一重巻付部の撚数
は一定であり、また鞘糸の太さも一定である。そのため
太さむらはあっても染色後の織編物は、表面に現れる鞘
糸の色調にに支配され、単調なものとなり、自然なむら
感とふくらみ感のある紬調布帛を形成することは困難で
あった。そのため、長年にわたり紬調複合加工糸を改良
することが望まれていた。
However, the above-mentioned conventional pongee-like composite processed yarn is a core-sheath yarn in which a single-wound portion and a triple-wound portion are alternately formed, but the number of twists in the single-wound portion is constant. And the thickness of the sheath thread is also constant. Therefore, even if the thickness is uneven, the dyed woven or knitted fabric is dominated by the color of the sheath yarn that appears on the surface and becomes monotonous. Met. Therefore, it has been desired for many years to improve the pongee-like composite processed yarn.

【0004】本発明は、前記従来の課題を解決するた
め、ふくらみ感と自然なむら感のある風合があり、かつ
染色後の織編物は色彩の変化性に富むとともに清涼感あ
る風合を発現できるランダム調紬調複合加工糸及びその
製造方法を提供することを目的とする。
[0004] In order to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention has a feeling of swelling and a natural unevenness, and a woven or knitted fabric after dyeing has a rich color change and a refreshing feeling. It is an object of the present invention to provide a randomly processed composite yarn that can be expressed and a method for producing the same.

【0005】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】前記目的を達成するた
め、本発明のランダム調紬調複合加工糸は、少なくとも
2種類の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントA及びB
からなる芯鞘構造を持つ仮撚複合糸であって、前記仮撚
複合糸は糸の長さ方向に一重巻付部と三重巻付部を交互
に形成しており、前記一重巻付部の数は500T/M
以上1500T/M以下の範囲にあり、かつ前記一重巻
付部の1cm毎の数が、平均実撚数±100T/M以
上のバラツキを有して不均一に巻き付いていることを特
徴とする。
In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, at least two types of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B are provided.
A false-twisted composite yarn having a core-in-sheath structure, wherein the false-twisted composite yarn has a single-wound portion and a triple-wound portion alternately formed in the length direction of the yarn. The number of twists is 500 T / M
Or 1500T / M is in the following range, and number of twists per 1cm of the unit with single winding is the average number of real twist ± 100T / M or less
It is characterized by being unevenly wound with the above variation .

【0006】前記構成においては、芯糸が熱可塑性合成
繊維マルチフィラメントA、鞘糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マ
ルチフィラメントBで形成されているとともに、鞘部B
の長手方向の繊度が一重巻付部と三重巻付部で異なり、
鞘部Bの一重巻付部の繊度より三重巻付部の繊度が3%
以上太いことが好ましい。
In the above construction, the core yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament A, the sheath yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament B, and the sheath portion B is formed.
The fineness in the longitudinal direction of the single wrapped part and the triple wrapped part is different,
The fineness of the triple wrapped portion is 3% of the fineness of the single wrapped portion of the sheath B
It is preferable that the thickness is larger.

【0007】次に本発明のランダム調紬調複合加工糸の
製造方法は、少なくとも2種類の熱可塑性合成繊維マル
チフィラメントA及びBからなる芯鞘構造を持つ仮撚複
合糸の製造方法であって、A糸に複屈折率△nが100
×10-3〜140×10-3からなるポリエステル系フィ
ラメントを使用し、B糸に複屈折率△nが30×10-3
〜70×10-3の部分と、△nが120×10-3〜16
0×10-3の部分が長さ方向に混在するポリエステル系
フィラメントを使用し、前記A糸の仮撚加工工程の加熱
領域より上流側で、前記B糸を周期的に振動させつつ前
記A糸に合糸し、しかる後、前記合糸した糸を仮撚加工
工程の加熱領域より下流側に位置するスピンドル仮撚装
置を用いて仮撚加工処理し、糸の長さ方向に一重巻付部
と三重巻付部を交互に形成しており、前記一重巻付部の
撚数は500T/M以上1500T/M以下の範囲にあ
り、かつ前記一重巻付部の1cm毎の撚数が、平均実撚
数±100T/M以上のバラツキを有して不均一に巻き
付いている複合加工糸を得ることを特徴とする。
[0007] Next, the method of the present invention for producing a randomly adjusted composite yarn is a method for producing a false twist composite yarn having a core-sheath structure comprising at least two types of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B. , A yarn has a birefringence Δn of 100
× 10 -3 to 140 × 10 using polyester filament consisting of -3, and a birefringence in the B yarn △ n is 30 × 10 -3
~ 70 × 10 -3 and Δn is 120 × 10 -3 -16
Using a polyester-based filament in which a portion of 0 × 10 −3 is mixed in the length direction, the A yarn is periodically oscillated on the upstream side of the heating area in the false twisting step of the A yarn while the B yarn is vibrated. Then, the twisted yarn is false twisted.
Spindle false twisting located downstream from the heating area of the process
With false twist processing using a single winding part in the length direction of the yarn.
And the triple wound portion are formed alternately, and the single wound portion is formed.
The number of twists is in the range of 500 T / M or more and 1500 T / M or less.
And the number of twists per 1 cm of the single wound portion is the average actual twist.
Non-uniform winding with variation of several ± 100 T / M or more
It is characterized by obtaining a composite yarn attached .

【0008】前記構成においては、B糸としてポリエチ
レンテレフタレート高配向未延伸糸(POY)を用い、
複屈折率△nが30×10-3〜70×10-3の部分と△
nが120×10-3〜160×10-3の部分が糸の長さ
方向に混在するフィラメント糸を仮撚加工工程に連続す
る前工程または別工程で形成することが好ましい。
[0008] In the above construction, polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) is used as the B yarn,
A portion where the birefringence △ n is 30 × 10 -3 to 70 × 10 -3 and △
It is preferable to form a filament yarn in which a portion where n is from 120 × 10 −3 to 160 × 10 −3 is mixed in the length direction of the yarn in a previous step or a separate step which is continuous to the false twisting step.

【0009】前記構成においては、B糸が、ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレート高配向未延伸糸(POY)を自然延伸
伸度(ND)の範囲内で延伸することにより得られる糸
であることが好ましい。
In the above construction, the yarn B is made of polyethylene
Natural drawing of highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY)
Yarn obtained by stretching within the range of elongation (ND)
It is preferred that

【0010】[0010]

【作用】前記した本発明の構成によれば、仮撚複合糸は
糸の長さ方向に一重巻付部と三重巻付部を交互に形成し
ており、前記一重巻付部のヨリ数は500T/M以上1
500T/M以下の範囲にあり、かつ前記一重巻付部の
1cm毎のヨリ数が不均一であることにより、自然なむ
ら感とランダム感、シャリ感、ふくらみ感のある風合が
あるランダム調紬調複合加工糸を実現できる。また、こ
の生地を染色することにより、色彩の変化性に富み、か
つ太さむらの変化も大きく、1cm毎のヨリ数が不均一
であるため、構造的により多様なものとなる。
According to the construction of the present invention described above, the false twist composite yarn has a single wrap portion and a triple wrap portion alternately formed in the length direction of the yarn, and the number of twists of the single wrap portion is 500 T / M or more 1
It is in the range of 500 T / M or less and the number of twists per 1 cm of the single-wound portion is not uniform, so that a random tone having a natural uneven feeling, a random feeling, a sharp feeling, and a swelling feeling is provided. Pongee-like composite processed yarn can be realized. In addition, by dyeing this fabric, the fabric is rich in variability in color, the variation in thickness unevenness is large, and the number of twists per 1 cm is non-uniform, resulting in a more diverse structure.

【0011】また、芯糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィ
ラメントA、鞘糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメン
トBで形成されているとともに、鞘部Bの長手方向の繊
度が一重巻付部と三重巻付部で異なり、一重巻付部の繊
度より三重巻付部の繊度が3%以上太いという本発明の
好ましい構成によれば、より太さむらを強調し、よりラ
ンダム感を発現できる。
The core yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament A and the sheath yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament B, and the fineness of the sheath portion B in the longitudinal direction is determined by a single winding portion and a triple winding portion. According to the preferred configuration of the present invention in which the fineness of the triple wrapped portion is 3% or more larger than the fineness of the single wrapped portion, unevenness in thickness can be emphasized and a more random feeling can be exhibited.

【0012】また、一重巻付部の1cm毎のヨリ数が、
平均実撚数±100T/M以上のバラツキがあるという
本発明の好ましい構成によれば、さらにランダムな自然
感があり、かつふくらみ感、シャリ感のある風合があ
り、かつ染色後の織編物は色彩の変化性に富むとともに
清涼感とふくらみ感のある風合を発現できる。
Further, the number of twists per 1 cm of the single-wound portion is as follows:
According to the preferred configuration of the present invention in which the average actual twist number ± 100 T / M or more is scattered, the woven or knitted fabric has a more random natural feeling, a swelling feeling and a crisp feeling, and has been dyed. Is rich in color change and can express a feeling of refreshing and swelling.

【0013】次に本発明の製造方法の構成によれば、B
糸に複屈折率△nが30×10-3〜70×10-3の部分
と△nが120×10-3〜160×10-3の部分が糸の
長さ方向に混在するポリエステル系フィラメント糸を用
い、A糸に複屈折率△nが100〜140×10-3から
なるポリエステル系フィラメントを使用し、前記A糸の
仮撚加工工程の加熱領域より上流側で、前記B糸を周期
的に振動させつつ前記A糸に合糸し、しかる後、前記合
糸した糸を仮撚加工処理することにより、前記紬調複合
加工糸を効率よく合理的に製造できる。すなわち、一重
巻付部と三重巻付部が糸の長さ方向に交互に混在するた
めランダム調紬調の糸となる。
Next, according to the structure of the manufacturing method of the present invention, B
Polyester filament in which a portion of birefringence Δn of 30 × 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 and a portion of Δn of 120 × 10 −3 to 160 × 10 −3 are mixed in the length direction of the yarn A polyester filament having a birefringence Δn of 100 to 140 × 10 −3 is used for the A thread, and the B thread is periodically cycled upstream from the heating region in the false twisting step of the A thread. The yarn is combined with the yarn A while being vibrated, and then the twisted yarn is subjected to false twist processing, whereby the pongee composite processed yarn can be efficiently and rationally manufactured. That is, since the single-wound portion and the triple-wound portion are alternately mixed in the length direction of the yarn, the yarn has a random tone.

【0014】また前記B糸としてポリエチレンテレフタ
レート高配向未延伸糸(POY)を用い、複屈折率△n
が30〜70×10-3の部分と△nが120〜160×
10 -3の部分が糸の長さ方向に混在するフィラメント糸
を仮撚加工工程に連続する前工程または別工程で形成す
るという本発明方法の好ましい構成によれば、さらに前
記紬調複合加工糸を効率よく合理的に製造できる。すな
わち、B成分糸に複屈折率△nが30〜70×10-3
部分と△n=120〜160×10-3が糸の長さ方向に
混在しているため自然なむら感を発現できる。
Further, as the B yarn, polyethylene terephthalate is used.
Rate highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY), and birefringence Δn
Is 30-70 × 10-3Part and Δn are 120-160 ×
10 -3Filament yarn where the part is mixed in the length direction of the yarn
Is formed in a pre-process that is continuous with the false twisting process or in a separate process.
According to a preferred configuration of the method of the present invention,
This makes it possible to efficiently and reasonably manufacture the kumiko style composite processed yarn. sand
That is, the birefringence Δn of the B component yarn is 30 to 70 × 10-3of
Part and Δn = 120-160 × 10-3Along the length of the thread
Because they are mixed, a natural unevenness can be exhibited.

【0015】[0015]

【実施例】以下図面を用いて本発明をさらに具体的に説
明する。図1は本発明の一実施例の糸の外観を示す概略
図である。図1において、黒い部分の糸をA糸、白い糸
をB糸とする。図1に示す通り、2本の熱可塑性合成繊
維マルチフィラメントからなる芯鞘構造を持つ仮撚複合
糸である。そして(イ)の一重巻付部では、B糸が実撚
数500T/Mから1500T/Mで平均実撚数±10
0T/M以上で巻付いている。また、(ロ)の三重巻付
部分では鞘糸B糸が三重に巻付いており、さらに一重巻
付部(イ)に比べ、三重巻付部分(ロ)の鞘糸の太さが
3%以上太くなっている。
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing the appearance of a yarn according to one embodiment of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the black yarn is referred to as A yarn, and the white yarn is referred to as B yarn. As shown in FIG. 1, it is a false twist composite yarn having a core-sheath structure composed of two thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments. In the single-wound portion (a), the B yarn has an actual twist number of ± 10 with an actual twist number of 500 T / M to 1500 T / M.
Wound at 0 T / M or more. In the triple-wound portion of (b), the sheath yarn B is triple-wound, and the thickness of the sheath yarn of the triple-wound portion (b) is 3% as compared with the single-wound portion (b). It is thicker.

【0016】次に図2は本発明の製造方法の一例であ
る。図2において1は供給原糸であるA糸、2は供給原
糸であるB糸、3,4,7,9はフィードローラ(ニッ
プローラー)、5,8は熱固定装置、6は仮撚装置(例
えばスピンドル)、10は巻取りローラー、11は糸パ
ッケージである。12は周期的振動合糸部、13は仮撚
工程を示す。
Next, FIG. 2 shows an example of the manufacturing method of the present invention. In FIG. 2, 1 is an A yarn which is a supply yarn, 2 is a B yarn which is a supply yarn, 3, 4, 7 and 9 are feed rollers (nip rollers), 5 and 8 are heat fixing devices, and 6 is a false twist. An apparatus (for example, a spindle), 10 is a winding roller, and 11 is a yarn package. Reference numeral 12 denotes a periodically vibrating yarn portion, and reference numeral 13 denotes a false twisting step.

【0017】供給原糸としては、A糸1として延伸糸を
使用する。B糸2としては、複屈折率△nが30〜70
×10-3の部分と△n=120〜160×10-3の部分
が糸の長さ方向に混在する糸を用いる。
As the supply yarn, a drawn yarn is used as the A yarn 1. The birefringence Δn of the B yarn 2 is 30 to 70.
A yarn in which a portion of × 10 -3 and a portion of Δn = 120 to 160 × 10 -3 are mixed in the length direction of the yarn is used.

【0018】前記の製造方法において、一工程方法を採
用する場合は、B糸2に例えばポリエチレンテレフタレ
ート高配向未延伸糸(POY)を使用し、予め延伸を行
いながら、複屈折率△nが30〜70×10-3の部分と
△n=120〜160×10 -3の部分が糸の長さ方向に
混在する糸を形成し、B糸2にすることもできる。
In the above manufacturing method, a one-step method is adopted.
When using, for example, polyethylene terephthale
Using a highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY)
While the birefringence Δn is 30 to 70 × 10-3Part and
Δn = 120-160 × 10 -3Is the length of the thread
It is also possible to form a mixed yarn to make the B yarn 2.

【0019】次にB糸2をニップローラー4により周期
的振動合糸部12にオーバーフィード40〜100%で
供給する。周期的振動合糸部12におけるB糸の往復動
長(振動長)は、5〜200mm程度が好ましい。そし
て仮撚条件により、B糸は12の矢印のごとくA糸にそ
って周期的に振動を行なわせつつ合糸し、仮撚工程13
で仮撚加工することにより、一重巻付部と三重巻付部を
交互に形成した複合糸となる。
Next, the B yarn 2 is supplied by the nip roller 4 to the periodically vibrating yarn 12 at an overfeed of 40 to 100%. The reciprocating movement length (vibration length) of the B yarn in the periodic vibrating yarn section 12 is preferably about 5 to 200 mm. According to the false twisting condition, the yarn B is twisted while periodically vibrating along the yarn A as indicated by the arrow 12 in the false twisting process.
By performing false twisting, a composite yarn is formed in which single-wound portions and triple-wound portions are alternately formed.

【0020】この後、2次熱固定装置8で熱処理して糸
のトルクを少なくし、巻き取りローラー10でパッケー
ジ11に巻取ることによりランダム調紬調複合加工糸を
形成できる。
Thereafter, the yarn is heat-treated by the secondary heat setting device 8 to reduce the torque of the yarn, and the yarn is wound around the package 11 by the winding roller 10 to form a randomly adjusted composite yarn.

【0021】ここで仮撚部13での紬調複合加工糸の発
生メカニズムを考えてみると、従来の特公昭61−31
219号公報では、芯糸に対し鞘糸を一定のオーバーフ
ィードで供給することにより一重巻付部と三重巻付部を
交互に発生させるが、これはすべて同じ鞘糸が一重巻付
部も三重巻付部も鞘部に巻付いた複合糸で、一重仮撚部
は均一な実撚数を有しており、1cm毎に調べても均一
なヨリ数であり、かつ一重巻付部と三重巻付部の鞘糸B
の太さは同一であるが、本実施例では1cm毎のヨリ数
は、平均実撚数±100T/Mと不均一になっており、
また一重巻付部より三重巻付部の太さが3%以上太くな
っている。これは、鞘糸の太さが不均一であること、及
びB糸に後に説明する自然延伸伸度を持たすことにより
延伸むらが発生し、一重巻付部ではヨリの不均一が発生
し、かつ三重巻付部では延伸倍率が低くなることから、
糸が太くなることが考えられる。
Considering the generation mechanism of the pongee-like composite processed yarn in the false twisting section 13, the conventional Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-31 is considered.
In Japanese Patent Publication No. 219, a single-wound portion and a triple-wound portion are alternately generated by supplying a sheath yarn with a constant overfeed to a core yarn. The winding part is also a composite yarn wound around the sheath part, the single false twist part has a uniform number of actual twists, the uniform number of twists even when inspected every 1 cm, and the single winding part is triple. Sheath B of the winding part
Are the same, but in the present embodiment, the number of twists per 1 cm is non-uniform with the average actual twist number ± 100 T / M.
In addition, the thickness of the triple wrapped portion is 3% or more thicker than the single wrapped portion. This is because the thickness of the sheath yarn is non-uniform, and the B yarn has a natural stretching elongation, which will be described later, so that uneven drawing occurs, and in the single-wound portion, uneven twist occurs, and Since the draw ratio is low in the triple winding part,
The thread may be thicker.

【0022】ここで自然延伸伸度の説明にする。通常P
OYのS−S曲線(強伸度曲線)を引くと図3(a)の
ようになり、延伸糸は図3(b)のようになる。そし
て、一定の強力で伸びる伸度で図3(a)の部分が自然
延伸伸度NDである。B糸はPOYを自然延伸伸度(N
D)の範囲内で延伸(不完全延伸)することにより得る
ことができる。
Here, the natural stretching elongation will be described. Normal P
When the SS curve (strong elongation curve) of OY is drawn, it becomes as shown in FIG. 3A, and the drawn yarn becomes as shown in FIG. 3B. The part shown in FIG. 3A is a natural stretching elongation ND at a constant strength and elongation. The B yarn is obtained by stretching POY by natural stretching elongation (N
It can be obtained by stretching (incomplete stretching) within the range of D).

【0023】(実施例1)100デニール48フィラメ
ントのポリエチレンテレフタレート延伸糸(A)と、複
屈折率△nが30〜70×10-3の部分と△nが120
〜160×10-3の部分が糸の長さ方向に混在するポリ
エチレンテレフタレート部分延伸糸(B)(85デニー
ル、36フィラメント)を図2に示した装置を用いて加
工を行なった。主要な条件は下記の通りである。 (1)仮撚フィード率 0% (2)仮撚数 2012T/M (3)鞘糸(B糸)フィード率 +70% (4)仮撚部の熱固定装置温度 200℃ (5)リラックス部 熱固定装置温度 200℃ (6)リラックスフィード率 20% (7)巻取りフィード率 +5% A糸にB糸を周期振動合糸部12で図面上A糸に沿って
左右にB糸が振動運動を行い、一重巻付部と三重巻付部
を交互に形成できた。一重巻付部の1単位の平均長さは
24.5cm、三重巻付部の同長さは8.6cmであっ
た。また、一重巻付部の実撚数は1023T/Mであ
り、1cm毎のヨリ数は最小700T/M、最大160
0T/Mであった。また一重巻付部の鞘糸の繊度は85
デニール、三重巻付部の繊度は92デニールであった。
さらに1cm毎のヨリ数は下記の(表1)に示す通りで
ある。
Example 1 A 100-denier 48 filament drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn (A), a portion having a birefringence Δn of 30 to 70 × 10 −3 and a Δn of 120
A polyethylene terephthalate partially drawn yarn (B) (85 denier, 36 filaments) in which a portion of ~ 160 × 10 -3 is mixed in the length direction of the yarn was processed using the apparatus shown in FIG. The main conditions are as follows. (1) False twist feed rate 0% (2) Number of false twists 2012 T / M (3) Feed rate of sheath yarn (B yarn) + 70% (4) Heat fixing device temperature of false twist part 200 ° C (5) Relaxing part heat Fixing device temperature 200 ° C (6) Relax feed rate 20% (7) Winding feed rate + 5% The B thread is oscillated to the A thread in the periodic vibration twinning section 12 along the A thread in the drawing. As a result, a single wrapped portion and a triple wrapped portion were alternately formed. The average length of one unit of the single wrapped portion was 24.5 cm, and the same length of the triple wrapped portion was 8.6 cm. The actual twist number of the single-wound portion is 1023 T / M.
It was 0 T / M. In addition, the fineness of the sheath yarn of the single wrapped part is 85
The fineness of the denier triple-wrapped portion was 92 denier.
Further, the number of twists per 1 cm is as shown in the following (Table 1).

【0024】[0024]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0025】この加工糸を織物にして染色したところ、
太さむら感、色調のむら感があり、自然感のある風合と
共に清涼感のある、良好な紬調の風合であった。 (比較例1)100デニール、48フィラメントのポリ
エチレンテレフタレート延伸糸と、75デニール、36
フィラメントのポリエチレンテレフタレート延伸糸を用
いて下記条件にて加工を行なった。 (1)仮撚フィード率 +0% (2)仮撚数 2000T/M (3)鞘糸フィード率 +60% (4)仮撚部の熱固定装置温度 200℃ (5)リラックス部 熱固定装置温度 200℃ (6)リラックスフィード率 20% (7)巻取りフィード率 +5% 上記条件で仮撚加工を行なったところ一重巻付部及び三
重巻付部は交互に発生しているが、一重巻付部のヨリ数
は平均980T/Mであるが、1cm毎の実撚数も同一
であり、一重巻付部と三重巻付部の鞘糸の太さも同一で
あった。
When this processed yarn was dyed into a woven fabric,
There was a feeling of unevenness in thickness and color tone, and it was a good pongee-like texture with a natural feeling and a refreshing feeling. (Comparative Example 1) 100 denier, 48 filament drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn and 75 denier, 36
Processing was performed under the following conditions using a drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn as a filament. (1) False twist feed rate + 0% (2) False twist number 2,000 T / M (3) Sheath feed rate + 60% (4) Heat fixing device temperature of false twist portion 200 ° C (5) Relax portion heat fixing device temperature 200 ° C (6) Relax feed rate 20% (7) Winding feed rate + 5% When false twisting was performed under the above conditions, single-wound portions and triple-wound portions were alternately generated, but single-wound portions The average number of twists was 980 T / M, but the actual number of twists per 1 cm was the same, and the thickness of the sheath yarn in the single wrapped portion and the triple wrapped portion was also the same.

【0026】これを織物にしたところ、本実施例品に比
べてふくらみがなくむら感のない色目の均一な生地とな
った。以上説明の通り、一重巻付部では1cm毎のヨリ
数が不均一であることにより、より自然なむら感を発現
することができ、また一重巻付部の鞘糸より三重巻付部
の鞘糸が太くなることにより、よりスラブ感の強調した
ふくらみ感と自然感のある織編物を作ることができる。
When this was made into a woven fabric, a swelling-free and uniform-colored uniform cloth was obtained as compared with the product of this example. As described above, the unevenness in the number of twists per 1 cm in the single-wound portion makes it possible to develop a more natural sense of unevenness. By making the yarn thicker, it is possible to produce a woven or knitted fabric having a swelling feeling and a natural feeling with an enhanced slab feeling.

【0027】[0027]

【発明の効果】以上説明した通り本発明は、仮撚複合糸
は糸の長さ方向に一重巻付部と三重巻付部を交互に形成
しており、前記一重巻付部のヨリ数は500T/M以上
1500T/M以下の範囲にあり、かつ前記一重巻付部
の1cm毎のヨリ数が不均一であることにより、自然な
むら感とランダム感、シャリ感、ふくらみ感のある風合
があるランダム調紬調複合加工糸を実現できる。また、
この生地を染色することにより、色彩の変化性に富み、
かつ太さむらの変化も大きく、1cm毎のヨリ数が不均
一であるため、構造的により多様なものとなる。
As described above, according to the present invention, the false-twisted composite yarn is formed by alternately forming single-wound portions and triple-wound portions in the length direction of the yarn. Due to being in the range of 500 T / M or more and 1500 T / M or less, and the number of twists per 1 cm of the single-wound portion being uneven, a feeling of natural unevenness, randomness, sharpness, and swelling is provided. It is possible to realize a certain random-like pongee-like composite processed yarn. Also,
By dyeing this fabric, rich in color change,
In addition, the variation in thickness unevenness is large, and the number of twists per 1 cm is non-uniform, so that the structure becomes more diverse.

【0028】また、芯糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィ
ラメントA、鞘糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメン
トBで形成されているとともに、鞘部Bの長手方向の繊
度が一重巻付部と三重巻付部で異なり、一重巻付部の繊
度より三重巻付部の繊度が3%以上太いという本発明の
好ましい構成によれば、より太さむらを強調し、よりラ
ンダム感を発現できる。
The core yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament A, the sheath yarn is formed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament B, and the fineness of the sheath portion B in the longitudinal direction is determined by a single-wound portion and a triple-wound portion. According to the preferred configuration of the present invention in which the fineness of the triple wrapped portion is 3% or more larger than the fineness of the single wrapped portion, unevenness in thickness can be emphasized and a more random feeling can be exhibited.

【0029】また、一重巻付部の1cm毎のヨリ数が、
平均実撚数±100T/M以上のバラツキがあるという
本発明の好ましい構成によれば、さらにランダムな自然
感があり、かつふくらみ感、シャリ感のある風合があ
り、かつ染色後の織編物は色彩の変化性に富むとともに
清涼感とふくらみ感のある風合を発現できる。
Further, the number of twists per 1 cm of the single wound portion is
According to the preferred configuration of the present invention in which the average actual twist number ± 100 T / M or more is scattered, the woven or knitted fabric has a more random natural feeling, a swelling feeling and a crisp feeling, and has been dyed. Is rich in color change and can express a feeling of refreshing and swelling.

【0030】次に本発明の製造方法によれば、B糸に複
屈折率△nが30×10-3〜70×10-3の部分と△n
が120×10-3〜160×10-3の部分が糸の長さ方
向に混在するポリエステル系フィラメント糸を用い、A
糸に複屈折率△nが100〜140×10-3からなるポ
リエステル系フィラメントを使用し、前記A糸の仮撚加
工工程の加熱領域より上流側で、前記B糸を周期的に振
動させつつ前記A糸に合糸し、しかる後、前記合糸した
糸を仮撚加工処理することにより、前記紬調複合加工糸
を効率よく合理的に製造できる。すなわち、一重巻付部
と三重巻付部が糸の長さ方向に交互に混在するためラン
ダム調紬調の糸となる。
Next, according to the production method of the present invention, the yarn having a birefringence index Δn of 30 × 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 and Δn
A polyester filament yarn in which a portion of 120 × 10 −3 to 160 × 10 −3 is mixed in the length direction of the yarn is used.
A polyester filament having a birefringence Δn of 100 to 140 × 10 −3 is used for the yarn, and the yarn B is periodically vibrated on the upstream side of the heating area in the false twisting process of the yarn A. By combining the yarn A with the yarn A and then subjecting the combined yarn to false twist processing, the pongee-like composite processed yarn can be efficiently and rationally manufactured. That is, since the single-wound portion and the triple-wound portion are alternately mixed in the length direction of the yarn, the yarn has a random tone.

【0031】また前記B糸としてポリエチレンテレフタ
レート高配向未延伸糸(POY)を用い、複屈折率△n
が30〜70×10-3の部分と△nが120〜160×
10 -3の部分が糸の長さ方向に混在するフィラメント糸
を仮撚加工工程に連続する前工程または別工程で形成す
るという本発明方法の好ましい構成によれば、さらに前
記紬調複合加工糸を効率よく合理的に製造できる。すな
わち、B成分糸に複屈折率△nが30〜70×10-3
部分と△n=120〜160×10-3が糸の長さ方向に
混在しているため自然なむら感を発現できる。
Further, polyethylene terephthalate is used as the B yarn.
Rate highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY), and birefringence Δn
Is 30-70 × 10-3Part and Δn are 120-160 ×
10 -3Filament yarn where the part is mixed in the length direction of the yarn
Is formed in a pre-process that is continuous with the false twisting process or in a separate process.
According to a preferred configuration of the method of the present invention,
This makes it possible to efficiently and reasonably manufacture the kumiko style composite processed yarn. sand
That is, the birefringence Δn of the B component yarn is 30 to 70 × 10-3of
Part and Δn = 120-160 × 10-3Along the length of the thread
Because they are mixed, a natural unevenness can be exhibited.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】本発明の一実施例の糸の外観を示す概略図であ
る。
FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing the appearance of a yarn according to one embodiment of the present invention.

【図2】本発明の一実施例の製造方法を示す工程図であ
る。
FIG. 2 is a process chart showing a manufacturing method according to one embodiment of the present invention.

【図3】自然延伸伸度の説明をする図であり、(a)は
ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸(POY)の強度−伸度特
性図、(b)はポリエステル延伸糸の強度−伸度特性図
である。
FIGS. 3A and 3B are diagrams for explaining the natural stretching elongation; FIG. 3A is a diagram showing strength-elongation characteristics of a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY); FIG. FIG.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1 A糸 2 B糸 3,4,7,9 フィードローラ(ニップローラー) 5,8 熱固定装置 6 仮撚装置 10 巻取りローラー 11 糸パッケージ 12 周期的振動合糸部 13 仮撚工程 (イ) 一重巻付部 (ロ) 三重巻付部 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 A thread 2 B thread 3,4,7,9 Feed roller (nip roller) 5,8 Heat fixing device 6 False twisting device 10 Winding roller 11 Thread package 12 Periodic vibration plying part 13 False twisting process (A) Single winding part (b) Triple winding part

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (72)発明者 中川 清 愛知県中島郡平和町上三宅1丁目1番 東レ・テキスタイル株式会社本社東海事 業場内 (56)参考文献 特開 昭61−146835(JP,A) 特開 昭58−191237(JP,A) 特開 昭58−169530(JP,A) ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Kiyoshi Nakagawa 1-1-1, Kamiyake, Heiwa-cho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Headquarters Tokai Office (56) References JP-A-61-146835 (JP, A) JP-A-58-191237 (JP, A) JP-A-58-169530 (JP, A)

Claims (5)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 少なくとも2種類の熱可塑性合成繊維マ
ルチフィラメントA及びBからなる芯鞘構造を持つ仮撚
複合糸であって、前記仮撚複合糸は糸の長さ方向に一重
巻付部と三重巻付部を交互に形成しており、前記一重巻
付部の数は500T/M以上1500T/M以下の範
囲にあり、かつ前記一重巻付部の1cm毎の数が、平
均実撚数±100T/M以上のバラツキを有して不均一
に巻き付いていることを特徴とするランダム調紬調複合
加工糸。
1. A false twisted composite yarn having a core-sheath structure comprising at least two kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B, wherein the false twisted composite yarn has a single-wound portion in the length direction of the yarn. forms alternately a triple winding unit, number of twists of the unit with single winding is in the range of 500T / M or 1500T / M, and the number of twists per 1cm of the unit with single winding is flat
Non-uniform with variation of average twist number ± 100T / M or more
Random-like pongee-like composite processed yarn characterized by being wound around .
【請求項2】 芯糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメ
ントA、鞘糸が熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントB
で形成されているとともに、鞘部Bの長手方向の繊度が
一重巻付部と三重巻付部で異なり、鞘部Bの一重巻付部
の繊度より三重巻付部の繊度が3%以上太い請求項1に
記載のランダム調紬調複合加工糸。
2. A thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament A as a core yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament B as a sheath yarn.
And the fineness of the sheath B in the longitudinal direction is different between the single wrapped portion and the triple wrapped portion, and the fineness of the triple wrapped portion is 3% or more thicker than the single wrapped portion of the sheath B. 2. The randomly processed composite yarn according to claim 1.
【請求項3】 少なくとも2種類の熱可塑性合成繊維マ
ルチフィラメントA及びBからなる芯鞘構造を持つ仮撚
複合糸の製造方法であって、A糸に複屈折率△nが10
0×10-3〜140×10-3からなるポリエステル系フ
ィラメントを使用し、B糸に複屈折率△nが30×10
-3〜70×10-3の部分と、△nが120×10-3〜1
60×10-3の部分が長さ方向に混在するポリエステル
系フィラメントを使用し、前記A糸の仮撚加工工程の加
熱領域より上流側で、前記B糸を周期的に振動させつつ
前記A糸に合糸し、しかる後、前記合糸した糸を仮撚加
工工程の加熱領域より下流側に位置するスピンドル仮撚
装置を用いて仮撚加工処理し、糸の長さ方向に一重巻付
部と三重巻付部を交互に形成しており、前記一重巻付部
の撚数は500T/M以上1500T/M以下の範囲に
あり、かつ前記一重巻付部の1cm毎の撚数が、平均実
撚数±100T/M以上のバラツキを有して不均一に巻
き付いている複合加工糸を得ることを特徴とするランダ
ム調紬調複合加工糸の製造方法。
3. A method for producing a false twist composite yarn having a core-sheath structure comprising at least two kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments A and B, wherein the yarn A has a birefringence Δn of 10
A polyester filament consisting of 0 × 10 −3 to 140 × 10 −3 is used, and the birefringence Δn of the yarn B is 30 × 10 −3.
-3 to 70 × 10 -3 and Δn is 120 × 10 -3 to 1
A polyester filament in which a portion of 60 × 10 −3 is mixed in the length direction is used, and the yarn A is periodically oscillated on the upstream side of the heating area in the false twisting step of the yarn A while the yarn B is vibrated periodically. And then the twisted yarn is false twisted.
Spindle false twist located downstream from the heating area in the construction process
False twisting processing using a device, and single winding in the length direction of the yarn
Part and the triple wound part are formed alternately, and the single wound part
The number of twists is between 500 T / M and 1500 T / M
And the number of twists per 1 cm of the single-wound portion is the average actual
Non-uniform winding with variation of twist number ± 100 T / M or more
A method for producing a random, pongee-like composite textured yarn, which comprises obtaining a tightly textured composite textured yarn.
【請求項4】 B糸としてポリエチレンテレフタレート
高配向未延伸糸(POY)を用い、複屈折率△nが30
×10-3〜70×10-3の部分と△nが120×10-3
〜160×10-3の部分が糸の長さ方向に混在するフィ
ラメント糸を仮撚加工工程に連続する前工程または別工
程で形成する請求項に記載の紬調複合加工糸の製造方
法。
4. A polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) is used as the B yarn, and the birefringence Δn is 30.
× 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 and Δn are 120 × 10 −3
The method for producing a pongee-like composite processed yarn according to claim 3 , wherein a filament yarn in which a portion of ~ 160 x 10-3 is mixed in the length direction of the yarn is formed in a previous step or a separate step following the false twisting step.
【請求項5】 B糸が、ポリエチレンテレフタレート高
配向未延伸糸(POY)を自然延伸伸度(ND)の範囲
内で延伸することにより得られる糸である請求項3に記
載の紬調複合加工糸の製造方法。
5. The yarn B is polyethylene terephthalate high
Unoriented oriented yarn (POY) is stretched in natural stretching elongation (ND)
4. A yarn obtained by drawing in a yarn as described in claim 3.
Production method of the pongee-like composite processed yarn described above.
JP5238613A 1993-09-27 1993-09-27 Random-like pongee-like composite processed yarn and method for producing the same Expired - Fee Related JP2732785B2 (en)

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JPH0797733A (en) 1995-04-11

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