JP2012001863A - Conjugate false-twist yarn and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a conjugate false-twist yarn which can supply a fabric excellent in a natural slub-like uneven touch and stretchability, when used for clothing or the like by high-order processing, and a method of producing the same.SOLUTION: When polyurethane-based elastic fibers A which are extended at a extend ratio of 1.8 to 3.5, and other filament fibers B are paralleled and simultaneously false-twisted, said other filament fibers B are excessively and directly supplied to twisted portions at a supply speed of +50 to +125% based on a false-twisting speed to perform the false-twisting process. The conjugate false-twist yarn Y includes said other filament fibers B on the periphery of said polyurethane-based elastic fiber A, and alternately have singly wound parts and triply wound parts of said other filament fibers B in the longitudinal direction of the filaments.

Description

  The present invention relates to a composite temporary twisted yarn suitable for obtaining a fabric excellent in slab-like natural unevenness and stretchability, and a method for producing the same.

  In recent years, many proposals have been made on composite temporary twisted yarns obtained by simultaneously twisting polyurethane elastic fibers and other filament fibers with the aim of excellent stretchability and sheath yarn covering properties (Patent Documents 1 and 2). 3). According to these inventions, a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent stretch can be obtained. However, in recent years, patterns such as tights and stockings have come to be favored, and variations have been demanded by consumers to provide designs, which has been a problem.

  On the other hand, in the temporary twisting method of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn, multiple winding processing with a design effect is achieved by oversupplying the sheath yarn to the twisted region of the core yarn and alternately having single winding and triple winding. Many methods for forming yarn have been proposed (see Patent Documents 4, 5, and 6). Multi-wrapped yarns manufactured by these methods have excellent design and a hemp-like texture, but due to the diversification of consumer needs, for example, stretchability, dimensional stability, soft texture The demand is increasing, and conventional multi-winding processed yarns are not sufficient.

  Therefore, a multi-winding processed yarn having a portion in which a sheath yarn, which is polyester, is wound in a single layer and a portion in which the sheath wire is wound in a triple manner is alternately arranged in the longitudinal direction of the yarn around the core yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate A method has been proposed (see Patent Document 7). According to the present invention, the design property is satisfactory, but the stretch property is not satisfactory, and improvement of the stretch property has been a problem.

JP 2001-295148 A JP 2001-288634 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-288631 JP-A-61-89344 JP-A-61-97442 JP-A-61-215731 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-4137

  An object of the present invention is to provide a composite temporary twisted yarn capable of supplying a fabric excellent in slab-like natural unevenness and stretchability, and a method for producing the same.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has any one of the following configurations.
(1) Having other filament fibers around a polyurethane-based elastic fiber, and alternately having portions in which the other filament fibers are wound in a single layer and portions in which the other filament fiber is wound in a triple manner Composite temporary twisted yarn characterized by having
(2) When the polyurethane-based elastic fiber stretched 1.8 to 3.5 times and other filament fibers are aligned and temporarily twisted simultaneously, the other filament fibers are directly twisted into the twisted portion. A method of producing a composite temporary twisted yarn, characterized by overfeeding at a supply rate of + 50% to + 125% with respect to the processing speed to cause temporary twisting.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a composite temporary twisted yarn capable of supplying a fabric excellent in slab-like natural unevenness and stretchability.

It is a mimetic diagram showing one embodiment of the compound temporary twisted yarn of the present invention. It is a schematic diagram which shows an example of the manufacturing process of the composite temporary twisted yarn of this invention. It is a photograph which shows the standard of unevenness evaluation of stockings.

  First, the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention will be described. FIG. 1 schematically shows the form of the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention. The composite temporary twisted yarn Y of the present invention, for example, when the polyurethane elastic fiber A and other filament fibers B are aligned and simultaneously temporarily twisted, the other filament fibers B are directly provisionally twisted at the twisted portion. It is a composite temporary twisted yarn obtained by oversupplying the processing speed and causing it to be temporarily twisted, and has a structure in which other filament fibers B are arranged around the polyurethane elastic fiber A, and A ground portion in which the other filament fiber B is wound in a single layer and a spindle-shaped slab portion in which the filament fiber B is wound in a triple manner are alternately present in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

  The single winding portion of the composite temporary twisted yarn Y has a real twist in the Z (or S) direction and is in a relatively converged state, whereas the triple winding portion has a triple winding. Of these, the first winding is the actual twist in the Z (or S) direction, the second winding is the actual twist in the S (or Z) direction, and the third winding is the actual twist in the Z (or S) direction. It has become. Although the triple winding part is tightly wound, it visually expresses uneven slabs and reproduces a dry texture tactilely.

  The core yarn of the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention is a polyurethane elastic fiber. The polyurethane elastic fiber is preferably one obtained by spinning a polyurethane polymer obtained by reacting an isocyanate mainly composed of a polymer diol and an organic diisocyanate with a polyfunctional active hydrogen compound.

  Examples of the polymer diol used in the present invention include polyether glycols such as polytetramethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and propylene ether glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, and the like. Polyester glycols obtained by reacting at least one glycol with at least one dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, β-methyladipic acid, isophthalic acid, polycaprolactone glycol, polyhexamethylene Examples include one or a mixture or copolymer of two or more polymer diols such as dicarbonate glycol.

  The organic diisocyanate used in the present invention is 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane. Examples thereof include one or a mixture of two or more organic diisocyanates such as diisocyanate, 4,4′-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and isophorone diisocyanate. Further, a small amount of triisocyanate may be used in combination.

  Examples of the polyfunctional active hydrogen compound used in the present invention include ethylenediamine, 1,2-propylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, xylylenediamine, 4,4′-diphenylmethanediamine, hydrazine, 1,4-diaminopiperazine, ethylene glycol, 1 1, 4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, water and the like, or a mixture of two or more of these. If desired, these compounds may be used in combination with a small amount of a terminator such as monoamine or monoalcohol.

  Polyurethane polymers include 2,6-ditetrabutylparacresol, antioxidants such as phosphites, light or ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone or hydroxybenzothiazole, 1,1-dialkyl substituted Gas yellowing such as semicarbazide and dithiocarbamate, a deterioration preventing agent, and white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide may be added as appropriate.

  The total fineness of the polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably in the range of 11 to 154 dtex, and more preferably in the range of 22 to 44 dtex. Further, the breaking elongation is preferably 300% or more. The cross-sectional shape of the polyurethane elastic fiber may be circular or flat.

  The other filament fibers B are not particularly limited as long as they are other than the polyurethane elastic fibers, but polyester filament fibers or polyamide filament fibers are more preferable from the viewpoint of processability.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the composite temporary twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated. In the method for producing the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyurethane-based elastic fiber is stretched (draft) by 1.8 to 3.5 times in advance, and the polyurethane-based elastic fiber and other filament fibers are aligned and simultaneously used. When provisionally twisting, the other filament fiber is directly supplied to the twisted portion at a supply rate of + 50% to + 125% with respect to the provisional twisting speed to cause provisional twisting.

  FIG. 2 schematically shows an example of a method for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 2, the polyurethane elastic fiber A is pre-drafted by 1.8 to 3.5 times between the yarn feeding roller 1 and the feed roller 2 in advance. Thereafter, the polyurethane-based elastic fiber A is temporarily supplied to the process, but in the twisted portion of the temporary twisting process, the other filament fiber B is directly oversupplied by the feed roller 3 via the swing fulcrum guide 4. And merged with the pre-drafted polyurethane elastic fiber.

  At this time, in the present invention, since the polyurethane elastic fiber A and the other filament fiber B are supplied to the temporary twisting process under the above-described conditions, it is not necessary to add another yarn to the polyurethane elastic fiber.

  In the present invention, supplying the other filament fiber B directly to the twisted portion means that the twist by the twisted body is retroactively upstream of the hot plate 6 for heat setting the twist by the twisted body to be described later. It means that the other filament fibers B are merged at a position downstream of the feed roller 2 that is the limit point.

  The yarn formed by joining the polyurethane elastic fiber A and the other filament fiber B is then temporarily twisted through the hot plate 6, the twisted body 7, and the delivery roller 8. At this time, the twist applied by the twisted body 7 flows backward and is set on the hot plate 6, but the other filament fibers B are over-supplied, so the polyurethane elastic fibers A are covered. Wrapped to do. Then, the merging point to the yarn in which the other filament fiber B and the polyurethane elastic fiber A that have been over-fitted are aligned is automatically swung in the direction of the arrow 5 around the swing fulcrum guide 4, Other winding portions and triple winding portions of the filament fiber B are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

  The other filament fibers B are oversupplied at a supply rate of + 50% to + 125% with respect to the temporary twisting speed (surface speed of the deliberry roller 8). If the oversupply is + 50% or less, the tension of the other filament fiber B at the swing fulcrum guide outlet becomes large, and the triple winding cannot be formed without causing the swing. On the other hand, if the oversupply is + 125% or more, the other filament fibers B relax and the yarn breaks. The supply speed of the other filament fibers B corresponds to the surface speed of the feed roller 3 in the case shown in FIG.

  The twisted body 7 used for temporary twisting may be any pin, friction, belt nip, or the like, but a pin suitable for low-speed temporary twist is preferable from the viewpoint of clearly expressing slab unevenness.

  Although the temperature of the hot plate 6 depends on the type of the other filament fiber B, it is preferably 170 ° C. or lower in view of thermal embrittlement of the polyurethane elastic fiber A.

  In the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention, the length of the triple winding portion of the other filament fiber B is variable depending on the supply speed of the other filament fiber B and the distance L from the swing fulcrum guide 4 to the temporary twisted portion. If the other filament fiber B is excessively supplied and the distance L from the swing fulcrum guide 4 to the temporary twisted portion is large, the length of the triple winding portion becomes long.

  The yarn subjected to the provisional twist is wound around the package 10 by the winder 9.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Length of ground part and slab part>
The composite twisted yarn was subjected to 30 × 10 ⁻³ cN / decitex tension, and the lengths of the ground portion and the slab portion were determined. This measurement was repeated 10 times, and the average value was determined.

<Stocking unevenness>
The stocking products were viewed by 10 female monitors in their 20s to 50s, and a sensory evaluation was performed on the unevenness. As for the intensity of the unevenness, 0 indicates that there is no unevenness, 5 points indicate that the unevenness appears more clearly than the sample illustrated in FIG. 3A, and the sample illustrated in FIG. 3B. As shown in Fig. 3, 3 points were shown with unevenness with the same degree of clarity as the average value of the evaluation score results of 10 people.

[Example 1]
Hereinafter, using the fibers of (A) and (B), a composite temporary twisted yarn was obtained on the temporary twist process shown in FIG. Specifically, after the polyurethane fiber of (A) was drafted 2.4 times in advance, the other filament fiber of (B) was swung to the twisted part, passed through the fulcrum guide, and + 60% of the temporary twisting speed. They were joined directly and subjected to pin temporary twisting under the following conditions to obtain a composite temporary twisted yarn.
[Used fiber]
(A) Polyurethane elastic fiber: “Lycra (registered trademark)” T-127C (manufactured by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd.) Fineness 44 dtex (B) Other filament fiber: Polyamide drawn yarn of 16 dtex 10 filament [temporary twist processing conditions]
Temporary twisting machine: TFT-6M (Pin temporary twisting machine)
Spindle speed: 297,700 rpm
Processing speed: 50m / min
Temporary twist draft: 1.048
Twisted body: Pin Temporary twist: 5954 T / m
Heater temperature: 160 ° C
Distance from swing fulcrum guide to temporary twisted part L: 20cm
The obtained composite temporary twisted yarn became a slab-like composite temporary twisted yarn having alternating single winding portions and triple winding portions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Table 1 shows the lengths of the ground portion and the slab portion of the obtained composite temporary twisted yarn.

  Using the obtained composite temporary twisted yarn (two S temporary twist yarns and two Z temporary twist yarns), a super four knitting machine (400 stitches) manufactured by Nagata Seiki Co., Ltd. The Z temporary twist yarn was alternately supplied to the yarn feeder of the knitting machine, and the leg knitted fabric was knitted only with the composite temporary twist processed yarn. The toe portion was knitted with a conventional false twisted yarn (56 dtex 26 filaments) for reinforcement, as is usually done as pantyhose. Then, the leg part knitted fabric was scoured and dyed (98 ° C. × 20 min), finished, and a template set (steam set, 105 ° C. × 60 sec) to obtain a pantyhose product.

  The obtained stockings had a spindle-shaped natural uneven surface change and emphasized the unevenness. Table 1 shows the stocking unevenness.

[Example 2]
Example 1 except that the other filament fibers in (B) are directly joined at + 75% with respect to the temporary twisting speed, and the distance L from the swing fulcrum guide to the temporary twisting portion is changed to 30 cm. Simultaneous provisional twisting was performed with exactly the same fiber and the same conditions to obtain a composite temporary twisted yarn.

  The obtained composite temporary twisted yarn became a slab-like composite temporary twisted yarn having alternating single winding portions and triple winding portions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Table 1 shows the lengths of the ground portion and the slab portion of the obtained covering yarn.

  A pantyhose product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained composite temporary twisted yarn. The obtained stockings had a large uneven surface change as compared with that of Example 1, and the sense of unevenness was sharp. Table 1 shows the stocking unevenness.

[Example 3]
Example 1 except that the other filament fibers in (B) are directly joined at + 115% with respect to the temporary twisting speed and the distance L from the swing fulcrum guide to the temporary twisting portion is changed to 35 cm. Simultaneous provisional twisting was performed with exactly the same fiber and the same conditions to obtain a composite temporary twisted yarn.

  The obtained composite temporary twisted yarn became a slab-like composite temporary twisted yarn having alternating single winding portions and triple winding portions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Table 1 shows the lengths of the ground portion and the slab portion of the obtained covering yarn.

  A pantyhose product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained composite temporary twisted yarn. The obtained stockings had a large uneven surface change as compared with that of Example 1, and the sense of unevenness was sharp. Table 1 shows the stocking unevenness.

[Comparative Example 1]
Except for directly joining the other filament fibers of (B) at + 35% with respect to the temporary twisting speed, simultaneous temporary twisting is performed under the same fibers and the same conditions as in Example 1, and a composite temporary twisting yarn is obtained. Obtained.

  The obtained composite temporary twisted yarn did not have a triple winding portion, and became a composite temporary twisted yarn having only a single winding portion. Table 1 shows the lengths of the ground portion and the slab portion of the obtained covering yarn.

A pantyhose product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained composite temporary twisted yarn. The obtained stockings had no irregular surface changes or unevenness. Table 1 shows the stocking unevenness.
[Comparative Example 2]
Except for directly joining the other filament fibers of (B) at + 130% with respect to the temporary twisting speed, simultaneous temporary twisting was performed under exactly the same fiber and the same conditions as in Example 1, but yarn breakage occurred. The composite temporary twisted yarn could not be obtained.

  When the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention is used for clothes or the like, a fabric excellent in slab-like natural unevenness and stretchability can be obtained. For clothing, in particular, stretch materials for a wide range of uses such as innerwear, sportswear, stockings, and outerwear can be provided, but the application range is not limited thereto.

Y Composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention A Polyurethane elastic fiber B Other filament fiber L Distance from swing support guide to temporary twisting section 1 Feed roller 2 Feed roller 3 Feed roller 4 Swing support guide 5 Polyurethane elastic Oscillating direction of the confluence of fiber A and other filament fiber B 6 Hot plate 7 Twisted body 8 Delivery roller 9 Winder 10 Package

Claims (2)

It has other filament fibers around the polyurethane-based elastic fiber, and alternately has a portion in which the other filament fiber is wound in a single layer and a portion in which the other filament fiber is wound in a triple manner in the yarn longitudinal direction. Characteristic composite temporary twisted yarn. When the polyurethane-based elastic fiber stretched 1.8 to 3.5 times and other filament fibers are aligned and temporarily twisted simultaneously, the other filament fibers are directly twisted at the temporary twisting speed. On the other hand, a method for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn, characterized by overfeeding at a supply rate of + 50% to + 125% to cause temporary twist processing.