FR2783844A1 - Jacquard knitted fabric for imitation fur materials has a knitted fur pattern for the floats to be shaved and the looped pile surface roughened giving the fur effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The knitted Jacquard fabric, to give an imitation fur, has texturized yarns as the elementary yarns to form the piles. After knitting, the effect yarn floats (Fa-Fc) are shaved without affecting the knitted loops (Ba-Bc), and further treated. The knitted Jacquard fabric, to give an imitation fur, has texturized yarns as the elementary yarns to form the piles. After knitting, the effect yarn floats (Fa-Fc) are shaved without affecting the knitted loops (Ba-Bc). The fabric is then washed, softened and dried. At least the surface with the loops is roughened conventionally to raise the fully-formed loops over the base of the material, to be shaved to a constant height. The fabric is fixed by heat with a controlled width shrinkage. The yarns (1) for the elementary yarns (2a-2c) for the piles are thinner than those for the fabric ground, and are texturized by false twisting. The yarns are dyed on bobbins, using gray yarns with different dyeing affinities. The reverse surface of the fabric is also roughened.

Description

1 PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A KNIT IMITATING THE

  FUR AND NEW TYPE OF FUR THUS REALIZED.

  In the field of decoration, furnishings, clothing, it has long been proposed to replace animal furs with products commonly known by the expression "synthetic furs", obtained from

  from textile, woven or knitted structures.

  To do this, the most widespread technique consists in making a woven or knitted support which has loops on one or both of its faces and then, after production, in subjecting one or both faces to a scraping operation or

  woolen fabric which makes it possible to transform the loops into more or less long hairs, the article then receiving a finishing treatment consisting essentially of a shaving or mowing operation making it possible to regularize the height of the hair after the scraping operation.

  Such synthetic velvets, obtained from fabrics or knits, therefore imply making basic articles of the "velvet" type> comprising a structure

  said bottom which ensures the maintenance of the hairs after finishing treatment, and which gives the mechanical characteristics to the finished article.

  The invention relates more particularly to an improved process for producing a new type of synthetic fur from a knitted structure.

  To date, in particular with regard to synthetic furs obtained on circular knitting looms with picked stitches to produce patterns, in order

  in particular to reproduce what comprises natural furs, the only solution consists in carrying out a printing operation.

  To date, for the production of synthetic furs produced from a knitted base structure, either multi-drop circular looms, double needle bed, which essentially consist of a plate and a cylinder, the cylinder being provided conventional needles and the tray being, for its part, fitted with hooks or needles without beak, these elements being arranged in a manner similar to that of an interlock loom, that is to say looms commonly designated by the expression " needle bed "and" platinum ring>> which also includes a cylinder I1 2 provided with needles and a horizontal plate equipped with platinums commonly designated

  under the abbreviation "platinum ring">.

  The process used to make pile articles on these looms consists, schematically, in successively knitting two threads with each fall, the first known as "ground thread" being picked up by the needles and forming jersey, the second known as " hair ", being picked by the needles of the cylinder and the hooks or plates of the

  tray so as to form jersey on the needles and loop around the hooks or platens of the cylinder, said loops being released before the next knitting fall10.

  In this way, a knitted fabric is formed, the underside of which consists of a Jersey structure and which has loops formed on its place by the thread which has surrounded the plate or hook of the plate. The height of the loops depends in particular on the spacing between the plate and the cylinder or on the height of the plates, as well as on the picking of the needles and the hooks of the cylinder if necessary. The knitted fabric obtained is then scraped and shaved in a conventional manner in order to

  to flourish the strands forming the loops.

  In such articles, the bristles are perfectly maintained with the background since they are meshed with the latter, but obtaining colored effects cannot be obtained directly during knitting. In the field of knitted velvets, it has been proposed to make Jacquard-type items, i.e. items in which each row of threads

  comprises on the one hand a background thread and one or more so-called "color" threads intended to form the effect, these threads being distributed to the needles according to a predetermined pattern and forming floats on the surface between each knitting area .

  To make such articles, multi-drop circular looms are used which include a cylinder fitted with needles and a plate provided with plates, which can be moved between the needles of the cylinder and making it possible to form loops. 35 Conventional looms in which each row does not have only one wire associated with the ground wire, as described in particular in the German patent

  1,128,076, are not satisfactory in that the products obtained have a low pile density.

  To resolve this density problem, it has been proposed, as is apparent from British Patent 2,111,540, to produce Jacquard knits which are essentially characterized by the fact that the different colors are knitted on a single row of stitches and not in successive rows. 10 We have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible to achieve, with trades implementing the teachings of the abovementioned British patent, real synthetic furs presenting effects obtained directly during knitting which, compared to jacquard15 knitted velvets made on such looms, have as essential characteristics to have a density of pile even increased, and especially a touch and a flexibility much more close to natural furs than a velvet fabric. In addition, in the article according to the invention, the reverse side is also usable, which is not the case with a conventional Jacquard velvet.20 Such a result is obtained not only by the particular selection of the trade allowing to knit, but also by the choice of threads entering the

  constitution of the basic knitting as well as by an adaptation of the finishing treatments of the unbleached article allowing the strands of the threads forming the loops to flourish.

  In general, the invention therefore relates to a method allowing the production of synthetic fur on a multi-drop circular knitting loom, making it possible to make Jacquard knitwear in which each row comprises on the one hand a working background thread according to a jersey weave and, on the other hand, a plurality of threads called "effects" or "color" mesh, according to

  a predetermined sequence depending on the pattern to be produced with said background thread, each colored thread forming loops between two successive stitches and floats in the non-knitted areas, said knitted fabric receiving a finishing treatment35 making it possible to eliminate said floats and flourish in the form of hairs the strands of the filaments forming the loops.

  The method according to the invention is characterized in that: - at least the elementary threads intended to form the bristles consist of multifilament synthetic threads having received a texturing treatment imparting to them a crimp increasing their voluminousness while limiting their elasticity; - After completion of the knitting, it is subjected to a finishing treatment consisting in: shaving the floats of the effect yarns without altering the loops of the knitting; 10. subjecting the unbleached fabric thus shaved to a washing / softening / drying treatment; to carry out a conventional scraping or woolening operation at least against the face comprising the loops in order to break the filaments constituting said loops to form open hairs on the surface of the base fabric; to carry out a shaving operation equalizing the length of the hairs thus formed, and finally to subject the article thus treated to a heat-setting operation resulting in a shrinkage in width relative to the

  original width at dusk.

  Thanks to such a procedure, a synthetic fur is thus obtained comprising patterns which also appear on the reverse side of the

  knitting, patterns which are much sharper than those of previous articles where they are obtained by printing.

  In addition, by using a Jacquard loom with computer-aided control, it is possible to produce an infinity of designs, by the simple selection of the needles, which allows a very great flexibility in the modifications of the patterns that one wishes to realize that do not allow conventional printing techniques. For the implementation of the method according to the invention, use will be made as multifilament synthetic yarns preferably of textured yarns, in particular by

  technique known as fixed false twist and more particularly polyester yarns.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the threads intended to form the hairs of the article will have a strand count less than that of the threads constituting the bottom, and this not only to improve the feel of the finished article, but also to facilitate the operation of forming the bristles from the knitted loops. 5 As an indication, polyester multifilament yarns having a strand count of less than 3 dtex will be used as the pile yarns, while that of the bottom yarns

  will be greater than 3 dtex.

  If for the production of the product according to the invention, preferably yarns dyed in a reel are used, it can also be envisaged to produce

  such articles using unbleached threads but which have characteristics of affinities with different dyes.

  As an indication, one could for example use anionic polyester threads with cationic polyester threads, an unbleached thread with a mass-dyed thread or

  any other combination allowing, after dyeing, to have different colors on each type of yarn.

  The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the following description and attached diagrams which illustrate an example of

  production of a knit imitating the fur produced in accordance with the invention, and in which: - Figure 1 illustrates the basic weave of the first three rows of a three-color Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention and such that it occurs at the end of the trade: - Figure 2 illustrates the structure of the same knit after its first finishing phase and before treatment allowing the formation of flourished hairs on the surface

said knitting.

  To make a knit imitating fur in accordance with the invention, in a first phase, a Jacquard knit is produced in accordance with the teachings of British patent 2 111 540 and this, on a circular knitting loom preferably comprising a selection of needles by order computer assisted

  therefore allowing a wide variety of designs to be made.

  As a type of loom, it is possible, for example, to use the knitting looms marketed by the Company MAYER et Compagnie under the reference MCPE.

  Thanks to such a type of loom, a Jacquard structure is therefore produced in which each row of threads - three consecutive rows of a three-color Jacquard being represented in FIG. 1-, comprises a working bottom thread (1)

  according to a Jersey weave and a plurality of so-called "effect" or "colored" threads, three in this case (2a, 2b, 2c).

  These colored threads (2a, 2b, 2c) mesh with the background thread according to a predetermined sequence depending on the drawings to be made, by forming loops

  (Ba, Bb, Bc) between two consecutive meshes and floats (Fa, Fb, Fc) in the non-knitted areas and which therefore extend above said loops.

  The structure of a knit according to Figure 1 is therefore a three-color Jacquard knit, but it is obvious that technically we could use a larger

  number of colors can go up to 12 in the aforementioned type of trade.

  At the fall of the loom, we thus obtain a knit whose reverse side has a Jersey aspect reproducing the pattern formed by the colored threads. On the spot, we thus obtain a structure with large floats (F) arranged above the loops. During the production of a conventional velvet, during the finishing treatment of the article, a shaving operation is carried out allowing on the one hand, to eliminate the floats and, on the other hand, to cut the upper part curls

  so that the strands of the wire constituting said loops open out, thus making it possible to obtain a velvet.

  According to the invention, to make a knit imitating fur, the yarns used in its composition are selected from synthetic multifilament yarns having received a texturing treatment imparting to them a crimp increasing their voluminousness while limiting their elasticity, for example yarns polyester textured using the fixed false twist technique.35 Furthermore, if these yarns can be identical, yarns with finer elementary filaments are preferably used for the yarns intended to form the loops and consequently the bristles of the finished product. than those making up the knitting yarn. 5 This makes it possible to have good mechanical characteristics given in the nature of the bottom wire while facilitating the subsequent blooming treatments.

  strands and giving the finished product a very soft feel.

  According to the invention, during the finishing treatment of the article, in a first phase, a shaving operation is certainly carried out, as in the case of a conventional pile, but this operation is carried out under conditions such as the floats (F) of the ecru knit are simply eliminated without altering the structure of the surface loops.

  After this shaving operation, we therefore obtain a Jacquard knit, the right side of which is made of loops.

  This pre-shaving operation having been carried out, a treatment is then carried out

washing, softening, drying.

  In the case of a fabric made of textured polyester threads, such a treatment is carried out by subjecting the unbleached knitted fabric to a washing operation in a bath of water and detergent, at a temperature of 70 ° C. for a period of fifteen seconds.25 After this washing / softening operation, a conventional scraping or woolening operation is carried out at least against the face

  apparent comprising the loops, which allows to break the filaments constituting said loops and causes the formation of hairs on the surface of the knitted fabric.

  Optionally, it is also possible to perform a scraping / woolening operation on the reverse side making it fluffy, and this under conditions such that one acts mainly on the colored threads which

  cover the bottom thread forming Jersey.

  After scraping, a shaving operation is preferably carried out equalizing the length of the bristles formed and the article thus treated is subjected to a heat setting operation on the ream, causing a shrinkage in width relative to the original width at dusk. job. 5

  By way of example of embodiment, a knit imitating fur was produced in accordance with the invention under the following conditions.

  Knitting loom - MCPE type loom from the MAYER company - 19 gauge (19 needles for 25.4 mm of needlework) - 30 inch diameter (762 mm) Number of scraps: 48 Weave of the trade - 3-color Jacquard weave in the composition of the knitted fabric - Ground yarns (1) (dyed): textured polyester thread FTF-Dtex 110/32 semi-mat ecru - Loop thread (2a, 2b, 2c): 20. textured polyester thread FTF- Dtex 167 / 50 mid-octolobate in 4 colors red, green, ocher and yellow Knitting layout 1st group 1 st fall Dtex 110 ecru 2êmó fall loop Dtex 167 color red 3rd fall loop Dtex 167 color ocher 4th fall loop Dtex 167 color yellow 2 * group 16r drop Dtex 110 ecru 2nd drop Dtex loop 167 green color 3rd drop Dtex loop 167 ocher color 4th drop Dtex loop 167 yellow color

  This arrangement is repeated six times on the loom.

  Knitting is carried out under conditions such that a loop height of approximately 3 mm is obtained, the off-white knitting having 8.8

  columns / centimeter and 16 meshes / centimeter.

  When the loom falls, such a knit weighs 330 g / m2 and has a width of 204 centimeters.

  After knitting, the tubular knit formed is laid flat, then is subjected to a finishing treatment in accordance with the invention, namely: - shaving of the floats (F) - washing / softening / drying treatment, - scraping of the face comprising the loops in order to open out the strands and possibly from the reverse side, - shaving of the face side to equalize the length of the strands, - and finally heat-fixing by passing over a train at a speed of 30 m / min and

at a temperature of 150 C.

  After treatment, an article is obtained which weighs 230 g / m2 and has a width of

  cm as a result of the shrinkage produced during the heat setting operation.

  Such an article therefore has an apparent pattern not only on its face

  place, but also on its reverse side.

  In addition, it has a great flexibility, has a density in hair

  high and a touch very close to that of natural furs.

Claims (8)

  1 / Method for making a synthetic fur on a circular, multi-drop knitting loom, for making Jacquard knits in which each row has on the one hand a base thread (1) working in a jersey weave and, d 'other hand, a plurality of threads (2a, 2b, 2c) called "effects" or "color" mesh, in a predetermined sequence depending on the pattern to be produced with said background thread, each colored thread forming loops (Ba, Bb, Bc) between two successive stitches and floats (Fa, Fb, Fc) in the non-knitted areas, said knitted fabric receiving a finishing treatment making it possible to eliminate said floats and to flourish in the form of bristles strands of the filaments forming the loops, characterized in that: - at least the elementary threads (2a, 2b, 2c) intended to form the bristles consist of multifilament synthetic threads having received a texturing treatment communicating to them a frizz re increasing their volume while limiting their elasticity; - after knitting, it is subjected to a finishing treatment consisting of: 20. shaving the floats (Fa, Fb, Fc) of the effect yarns (2a, 2b, 2c) without altering the loops of the knitting ( Ba, Bb, Bc); subjecting the unbleached fabric thus shaved to a washing / softening / drying treatment; to carry out a conventional scraping or woolening operation at least against the face comprising the loops (Ba, Bb, Bc) in order to break the filaments constituting said loops to form loose hairs on the surface of the base fabric; to carry out a shaving operation equalizing the length of the hairs thus formed, 30. and finally to subject the article thus treated to a heat-fixing operation resulting in a shrinkage in width relative to the   original width at dusk.   2 / A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the elementary wires (1) (2a, 2b, 2c) intended to form the bristles have a strand count less than   that of the threads constituting the bottom of the knitted fabric. He l   3 / Method according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the elementary son (2a, 2b, 2c) intended to form the bristles are textured son by the   technique known as fixed false twist.   4 / Method according to one of claims 1 and 3, characterized in that the pile son (2a, 2b, 2c) and bottom (1) are polyester son, the pile son having   a titer at least less than 3 dtex, while that of the bottom threads is greater than 3 dtex.   5 / Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the son   (2a, 2b, 2c) are threads dyed in a reel.   6 / Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the son   (2a, 2b, 2c) are unbleached threads having characteristics of affinities with the different dye.   7 / A method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the reverse side of the knitted fabric is also subjected to a scraping operation.   8 / synthetic fur obtained by the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises patterns obtained directly when knitting.