JP4500266B2 - Method for producing napped fabric - Google Patents
Method for producing napped fabric Download PDFInfo
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- JP4500266B2 JP4500266B2 JP2005516376A JP2005516376A JP4500266B2 JP 4500266 B2 JP4500266 B2 JP 4500266B2 JP 2005516376 A JP2005516376 A JP 2005516376A JP 2005516376 A JP2005516376 A JP 2005516376A JP 4500266 B2 JP4500266 B2 JP 4500266B2
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- napped
- yarn
- fabric
- raised
- gradient
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 78
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 11
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 30
- 238000005530 etching Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000003486 chemical etching Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- -1 alkylene glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 20
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 17
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 17
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 12
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 9
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 6
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 5
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001225 polyester resin Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000004645 polyester resin Substances 0.000 description 4
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 3
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 2
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003242 anti bacterial agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N antimony trioxide Chemical compound O=[Sb]O[Sb]=O ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisphenol A Chemical compound C=1C=C(O)C=CC=1C(C)(C)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 description 2
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,4,4,6,6-hexaphenoxy-1,3,5-triaza-2$l^{5},4$l^{5},6$l^{5}-triphosphacyclohexa-1,3,5-triene Chemical compound N=1P(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP=1(OC=1C=CC=CC=1)OC1=CC=CC=C1 RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229930185605 Bisphenol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001154 acute effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002301 cellulose acetate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004049 embossing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000012760 heat stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003230 hygroscopic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003112 inhibitor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007641 inkjet printing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010954 inorganic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003049 inorganic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000077 insect repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=C(C(O)=O)C(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005080 phosphorescent agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound [Na].OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
- D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
- D04B21/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Description
本発明は、地組織部と立毛部とで構成される立毛布帛およびその製造方法に関するものである。さらに詳しくは、立毛部の表面に、緩やかな勾配部を有する、高級感に富む立毛布帛およびその製造方法に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a napped fabric composed of a ground tissue portion and a napped portion and a method for producing the napped fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a napped fabric having a gentle slope on the surface of the napped portion and rich in luxury, and a method for producing the napped fabric.
従来、車輌内装材、インテリア資材、衣料などの分野を中心として立毛布帛が使用されている。近年、かかる立毛布帛のなかでも布帛表面に立体模様を有するものが、高級感に富む立毛布帛として注目されている。このような立体模様を形成する方法としては、物理的に凹凸を形成する方法と化学的に凹凸を形成する方法が知られている。 Conventionally, standing fabric has been used mainly in fields such as vehicle interior materials, interior materials, and clothing. In recent years, among these napped fabrics, those having a three-dimensional pattern on the fabric surface have attracted attention as napped fabrics rich in luxury. As a method of forming such a three-dimensional pattern, a method of physically forming unevenness and a method of chemically forming unevenness are known.
物理的に凹凸を形成する方法としては、高温加熱下での彫刻ロールの接圧による型付け(例えば、エンボス加工、シュライナー加工等)が知られているが、重加圧下の加熱ロール間に布帛を挿入するため、風合いの硬化や布帛の扁平化が非常に大きくなるという問題や、熱ロールによる金属光沢を生じて熱変色を生じるという問題があった。 As a method for physically forming unevenness, there is known a method of forming an engraving roll by contact pressure under high-temperature heating (for example, embossing, shriner processing, etc.). Therefore, there is a problem that the texture is hardened and the fabric is flattened, and that the metallic luster is generated by the heat roll, resulting in thermal discoloration.
一方、化学的に凹凸を形成する方法としては、苛性ソーダを主とするアルカリ剤などを印捺しその印捺した部分を溶解させて凹凸差(階段状の段差)を形成する方法(例えば、特許文献1参照)や、無機または有機の溶剤を繊維収縮剤として用い該繊維収縮剤を立毛布帛に吹き付けることにより立毛糸を収縮させ深くシャープな凹凸模様を形成する方法(例えば、特許文献2参照)が提案されている。しかしながら、これら階段状の凹凸差や深くシャープな凹凸模様を有する立毛布帛は、高級感の点で満足と言えるものではなかった。また、繊維収縮剤を立毛布帛に吹き付ける方法では、繊維収縮剤が通常高粘度であるためノズル部での詰まりやコンピューター制御の特殊な吹き付け装置を必要とするという問題があった。 On the other hand, as a method of chemically forming unevenness, a method of forming an unevenness difference (stepped step) by printing an alkaline agent mainly composed of caustic soda and dissolving the printed portion (for example, patent document) 1) or a method of forming a deep and sharp concavo-convex pattern by shrinking napped yarns by spraying the fiber shrinking agent onto a napped fabric using an inorganic or organic solvent as a fiber shrinking agent (for example, see Patent Document 2). Proposed. However, these raised fabrics having a stepped unevenness difference and a deep and sharp unevenness pattern are not satisfactory in terms of luxury. Further, in the method of spraying the fiber shrinkage agent on the raised fabric, there is a problem that the fiber shrinkage agent is usually highly viscous, so that the nozzle portion is clogged and a special spraying device controlled by a computer is required.
本発明の目的は、高級感に富む立毛布帛およびその製造方法を提供することを目的とする。上記目的は本発明の立毛布帛およびその製造方法により達成することができる。 An object of the present invention is to provide a napped fabric rich in luxury and a method for producing the same. The above object can be achieved by the raised fabric of the present invention and the production method thereof.
本発明は、有機繊維糸条からなる編織組織を有する地組織部と、ポリエステル系繊維からなる立毛部とで構成される立毛布帛の立毛部を、化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去し、立毛部の高さを漸減させることにより、0.5〜10度の傾斜角度を有する勾配部を形成する立毛布帛の製造方法であって、立毛部を化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去する際、エッチング処理液吐出孔の孔径が漸増する部分を有するロータリースクリーンを用いることを特徴とする立毛布帛の製造方法である。 The present invention partially removes a raised portion of a raised fabric composed of a ground tissue portion having a woven structure made of organic fiber yarns and a raised portion made of polyester fiber by a chemical etching method. By gradually decreasing the height of the portion, a method for producing a napped fabric that forms a gradient portion having an inclination angle of 0.5 to 10 degrees, when the napped portion is partially removed by a chemical etching method, A method for producing a napped fabric comprising using a rotary screen having a portion where the hole diameter of an etching treatment liquid discharge hole gradually increases.
その際、2〜5本のロータリースクリーンを用いて、連続的に重ね合わせて化学的エッチング処理を施すことが好ましい。 In that case, it is preferable to perform a chemical etching process by superimposing continuously using 2 to 5 rotary screens.
本発明の立毛布帛は(A)有機繊維糸条からなる編織組織を有する地組織部と、(B)ポリエステル系繊維からなる立毛部とからなるものであって、前記立毛部は、前記地組織部に編み込まれ、又は織り込まれ、前記地組織部から、その少なくとも1面側に伸び出ている複数の立毛糸(カットパイル)からなるものである。 The napped fabric of the present invention comprises (A) a ground tissue portion having a knitted fabric composed of organic fiber yarns, and (B) a napped portion composed of polyester fiber, wherein the napped portion is composed of the ground tissue. It consists of a plurality of napped yarns (cut piles) knitted or woven into a portion and extending from the ground tissue portion to at least one side thereof.
前記立毛部は、ポリエステル繊維からなる立毛糸で構成される。立毛部を構成する立毛糸は1種でもよいし、2種以上でもよい。また、立毛糸を2種以上とし、立毛糸高さや、明度、色相などを互いに異ならせてもよい。かかる立毛糸は、通常の捲縮が付与された捲縮立毛糸でもよいし非捲縮立毛糸でもよい。さらには、捲縮立毛糸と非捲縮立毛糸とで立毛部を構成してもよい。立毛部に捲縮立毛糸が含まれていると、立毛糸の倒伏抵抗性が向上し好ましいことである。なお、捲縮を付与する方法としては、仮撚捲縮加工法、空気ジェット加工法、圧縮捲縮法などが例示される。 The raised portion is constituted by a raised yarn made of polyester fiber. One type of napped yarn constituting the napped portion may be used, or two or more types may be used. Further, two or more types of napped yarns may be used, and the napped yarn height, brightness, hue, and the like may be different from each other. Such a raised yarn may be a normal crimped yarn provided with a normal crimp or may be a non-crimped yarn. Furthermore, you may comprise a napped part with a crimped-up wool yarn and a non-crimped-up wool yarn. It is preferable that crimped raised yarn is included in the raised portion because the lodging resistance of the raised yarn is improved. Examples of methods for imparting crimps include false twist crimping, air jet machining, and compression crimping.
前記立毛糸を形成するポリエステル樹脂は、ジカルボン酸成分と、ジグリコール成分とから製造される。ジカルボン酸成分としては、主としてテレフタル酸が用いられることが好ましく、ジグリコール成分としては主としてエチレングリコール、トリメチレングリコール及びテトラメチレングリコールから選ばれた1種以上のアルキレングリコールを用いることが好ましい。また、ポリエステル樹脂には、前記ジカルボン酸成分及びグリコール成分の他に第3成分を含んでいてもよい。該第3成分としては、カチオン染料可染性アニオン成分、例えば、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸;テレフタル酸以外のジカルボン酸、例えばイソフタル酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸;及びアルキレングリコール以外のグリコール化合物、例えばジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ビスフェノールA、ビスフェノールスルフォンの1種以上を用いることができる。 The polyester resin forming the raised yarn is produced from a dicarboxylic acid component and a diglycol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, terephthalic acid is preferably used mainly, and as the diglycol component, it is preferable to use one or more alkylene glycols selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol. Moreover, the polyester resin may contain a third component in addition to the dicarboxylic acid component and the glycol component. Examples of the third component include cationic dye dyeable anion components such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid; dicarboxylic acids other than terephthalic acid such as isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid; and glycol compounds other than alkylene glycol. For example, one or more of diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol sulfone can be used.
かかるポリエステル樹脂中には、必要に応じて、艶消し剤(二酸化チタン)、微細孔形成剤(有機スルホン酸金属塩)、着色防止剤、熱安定剤、難燃剤(三酸化二アンチモン)、蛍光増白剤、着色顔料、帯電防止剤(スルホン酸金属塩)、吸湿剤(ポリオキシアルキレングリコール)、抗菌剤、その他の無機粒子の1種以上を含有させてもよい。 In such a polyester resin, a matting agent (titanium dioxide), a micropore forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a coloring inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), fluorescent light, if necessary. You may contain 1 or more types of a whitening agent, a coloring pigment, an antistatic agent (sulfonic acid metal salt), a hygroscopic agent (polyoxyalkylene glycol), an antibacterial agent, and other inorganic particles.
ポリエステル繊維の単繊維繊度(番手)、又はこれらの1種以上からなる立毛部形成用糸条の総繊度(番手)などに制限はないが、単繊維繊度は0.5〜5dtex、また立毛部形成用糸条の総繊度は30〜300dtexであることが好ましい。単繊維繊度が0.1dtex未満であると、得られる倒伏抵抗性が不十分になることがあり、かつ得られる立毛部の風合いが過度に柔らかになることがあり、またそれが10dtexを越えると得られる立毛部の風合いが、過度にこわくなることがある。さらに立毛部形成用糸条の総繊度が30dtex未満である場合や逆に300dtexを越える場合、捲縮加工や他糸条との混繊などの糸加工時や製編織時の取扱い性が低下するという不都合を生じることがある。単繊維の断面形状には制限はなく、通常の円形断面のほかに三角、扁平、くびれ付扁平、十字形、六様形、あるいは中空形の断面形状を有していてもよい。また、立毛部形成用糸条は、2種以上の構成糸条からなる複合糸であってもよく、その際、構成糸条のポリエステル樹脂を互いに異ならせるか着色剤を練りこむことにより、異色または異染色性としてもよい。 There is no limitation on the single fiber fineness (count) of the polyester fiber, or the total fineness (count) of the yarn for forming the raised portion composed of one or more of these, but the single fiber fineness is 0.5 to 5 dtex, and the raised portion The total fineness of the forming yarn is preferably 30 to 300 dtex. When the single fiber fineness is less than 0.1 dtex, the resulting lodging resistance may be insufficient, and the texture of the obtained raised portion may become excessively soft, and when it exceeds 10 dtex The texture of the napped portion obtained may become excessively scary. Furthermore, when the total fineness of the yarn for forming the raised portion is less than 30 dtex, or conversely, more than 300 dtex, the handleability at the time of yarn processing such as crimping and blending with other yarns or weaving is reduced. May cause inconvenience. The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is not limited, and may have a triangular, flat, constricted flat, cross, hexagonal, or hollow cross-sectional shape in addition to a normal circular cross section. Further, the yarn for forming the napped portion may be a composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of constituent yarns. In this case, different colors may be obtained by making the polyester resins of the constituent yarns different from each other or kneading a colorant. Or it is good also as different dyeing property.
本発明の立毛布帛において、図1に模式的に示すように、立毛部の1以上の部分領域に立毛部の高さLが漸減することによる勾配部1が形成される。かかる勾配部は、立毛部を構成するポリエステル系立毛糸の先端部を後記のように化学的エッチング法で除去することにより得られる。立毛部に勾配部が形成されることにより、立毛部の高さが高いところは淡色に見え、一方立毛部の高さが低いところは影になって濃色に見え、しかも勾配に沿って淡色から濃色へと徐々に濃淡が変化するので、高級感が得られる。 In the raised fabric of the present invention, as schematically shown in FIG. 1, a gradient portion 1 is formed by gradually decreasing the height L of the raised portion in one or more partial regions of the raised portion. Such a gradient portion can be obtained by removing the tip portion of the polyester-based raised yarn constituting the raised portion by a chemical etching method as described later. When the raised portion is formed with a gradient portion, the portion where the height of the raised portion is high appears light, while the portion where the height of the raised portion is low is shaded and appears dark, and the color is light along the gradient. Since the shade gradually changes from dark to dark, a high-class feeling can be obtained.
ここで、該勾配部の傾斜角度Aが0.5〜10度(好ましくは1〜3度)の範囲内であることが肝要である。該傾斜角度Aが10度よりも大きい鋭角であると淡色から濃色へ急激に明度が変化するため満足な高級感が得られない恐れがある。逆に、該傾斜角度が0.5度よりも小さいと十分に明度が変化せず、やはり満足な高級感が得られない恐れがある。また、図3に模式的に示すように、勾配のない段差のある凹凸が立毛部に形成されている場合も、高級感が得られず好ましくない。
その際、図2に模式的に示すように、前記立毛部に、明度または色相、あるいは明度および色相において、互いに異なる2種以上の立毛糸が含まれ、勾配に沿って色彩が徐々に変化すると、特に優れた高級感が得られ好ましい。
Here, it is important that the inclination angle A of the gradient portion is within a range of 0.5 to 10 degrees (preferably 1 to 3 degrees). If the inclination angle A is an acute angle larger than 10 degrees, the brightness changes abruptly from a light color to a dark color, so that a satisfactory high-class feeling may not be obtained. On the contrary, if the inclination angle is smaller than 0.5 degrees, the brightness does not change sufficiently, and there is a possibility that a satisfactory high-class feeling cannot be obtained. Further, as schematically shown in FIG. 3, it is also not preferable that unevenness having a step with no gradient is formed on the raised portion because a high-class feeling cannot be obtained.
At that time, as schematically shown in FIG. 2, the raised portion includes two or more kinds of raised yarns that are different from each other in lightness or hue, or brightness and hue, and the color gradually changes along the gradient. In particular, an excellent luxury feeling is obtained and preferable.
また、前記勾配部において、勾配部の最大立毛部高さと最小立毛部高さとの深度差Hが0.6〜1.0mmの範囲であることが満足な高級感を得る上で好ましい。また、立毛部の最大立毛部高さLとしては、1〜5mm(より好ましくは1.5〜3mm)であることが満足な高級感を得る上で好ましい。なお、立毛糸が地組織部に対して傾いている(90度未満)場合、立毛部の立毛部高さLは図4に示すように垂直距離を測定するものとする。 Moreover, in the said gradient part, it is preferable when obtaining the satisfactory high-quality feeling that the depth difference H of the maximum raised part height of the gradient part and the minimum raised part height is the range of 0.6-1.0 mm. Further, the maximum raised portion height L of the raised portions is preferably 1 to 5 mm (more preferably 1.5 to 3 mm) in order to obtain a satisfactory high-quality feeling. In addition, when the napped yarn is inclined with respect to the ground tissue portion (less than 90 degrees), the napped portion height L is measured as a vertical distance as shown in FIG.
前記勾配部において、勾配部の表面(傾斜表面)には微細凹凸が少ないことが好ましい。勾配部表面に微細凹凸が少なく滑らかであると勾配に沿って淡色(最大パイル高さ側)から濃色(最小パイル高さ側)へと徐々に明度が変化するので、満足な高級感が得られる。かかる微細凹凸の少なさの目安として、勾配部の最大高さ側40%領域において、面積0.05mm2以上の微細凹部の個数が120個/cm2以下(より好ましくは、10〜100個/cm2)であることが好ましい。特に、該凹部の総面積が前記40%領域の総面積に対して20%以下(より好ましくは2〜10%)であるとより好ましい。このように微細凹部の少ない滑らかな勾配は、後記のように複数本のロータリースクリーンにより重ね合わせてエッチング処理することにより得ることができる。なお、勾配部の最大高さ側40%領域とは、図1において0.4Wに相当する領域の勾配部表面積である。 In the gradient portion, it is preferable that the surface of the gradient portion (inclined surface) has few fine irregularities. If the surface of the gradient part is smooth with few fine irregularities, the brightness gradually changes from a light color (maximum pile height side) to a dark color (minimum pile height side) along the gradient. It is done. As a measure of the small number of such fine irregularities, the number of fine concave portions having an area of 0.05 mm 2 or more is 120 pieces / cm 2 or less (more preferably 10 to 100 pieces / cm 2 ). In particular, the total area of the recesses is more preferably 20% or less (more preferably 2 to 10%) with respect to the total area of the 40% region. Thus, a smooth gradient with few fine recesses can be obtained by overlapping and etching with a plurality of rotary screens as described later. Note that the 40% region on the maximum height side of the gradient portion is the gradient portion surface area of the region corresponding to 0.4 W in FIG.
また、立毛部の複数の部分領域において勾配部が形成されており、これら複数の勾配部により模様が形成されていると、さらに高級感が増し好ましいことである。かかる模様としては、図5に例示するような正方形(1辺の長さとしては1〜3cm程度が適当である。)が平面的に連続する模様、水玉模様、格子模様、市松模様などが例示される。なお、図5において淡色部が立毛部の高さが高いところであり、一方濃色部が立毛部の高さが低いところである。 In addition, it is preferable that a gradient portion is formed in a plurality of partial regions of the raised portion, and that a pattern is formed by the plurality of gradient portions, since a sense of quality is further increased. Examples of such a pattern include a pattern in which a square as illustrated in FIG. 5 (a length of about 1 to 3 cm is appropriate for one side), a polka dot pattern, a lattice pattern, a checkered pattern, and the like. Is done. In FIG. 5, the light colored portion is where the raised portion is high, while the dark portion is where the raised portion is low.
本発明の立毛布帛の編織組織に制限はなく、例えば経パイル織物、緯パイル織物、シンカーパイル編物、ラッセルパイル編物、トリコットパイル編物などのループパイルをカットして得られたカットパイル布帛である。 There is no restriction | limiting in the knitted fabric structure of the raised fabric of this invention, For example, it is a cut pile fabric obtained by cutting loop piles, such as a warp pile fabric, a weft pile fabric, a sinker pile fabric, a Russell pile fabric, a tricot pile fabric.
本発明の立毛布帛において、地組織部に用いられる糸条の種類、繊維の種類、単糸繊度、総繊度について格別の制限はなく、通常の立毛布帛に用いられる有機繊維糸条を用いることができる。かかる有機繊維糸条としては、綿、羊毛、麻、ビスコースレーヨン繊維、ポリエステル繊維、ナイロン繊維、ポリオレフィン繊維、セルロースアセテート繊維などを包含する。一般に本発明の立毛布帛の地組織部用糸条はポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸条から選ばれることが好ましく、それによって好ましい風合いと染色性とを有する地組織部を得ることができる。 In the raised fabric of the present invention, there is no particular limitation on the type of yarn, the type of fiber, the single yarn fineness, and the total fineness used in the ground tissue portion, and organic fiber yarns used in ordinary raised fabrics can be used. it can. Such organic fiber yarn includes cotton, wool, hemp, viscose rayon fiber, polyester fiber, nylon fiber, polyolefin fiber, cellulose acetate fiber and the like. In general, the yarn for the ground tissue part of the raised fabric of the present invention is preferably selected from polyester multifilament yarns, whereby a ground texture part having a preferred texture and dyeability can be obtained.
本発明の立毛布帛の立毛部における立毛糸の分布は34000〜220000dtex/cm2の範囲内にあることが好ましい。この立毛糸密度が34000dtex/cm2未満であると、エッチング処理の際、立毛部中の立毛糸が容易に倒伏してしまい、エッチング作用が不安定となる恐れがある。逆にそれが220000dtex/cm2を越えると、エッチング処理の際、アルカリ処理液の立毛部への浸透性が悪くなり満足なエッチング処理ができない恐れがある。 The distribution of the raised yarn in the raised portion of the raised fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 34,000 to 220,000 dtex / cm 2 . When the napped yarn density is less than 34000 dtex / cm 2 , the napped yarn in the napped portion easily falls down during the etching process, and the etching action may become unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 220,000 dtex / cm 2 , the penetrability of the alkaline treatment liquid into the napped portion may be deteriorated during the etching process, and a satisfactory etching process may not be performed.
本発明の立毛布帛は、例えば下記の方法により製造することができる。 The raised fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method.
まず、前記の有機繊維糸条からなり編織組織を有する地組織部と、前記のポリエステル系繊維からなるループパイル部とで構成されるパイル布帛を製編織した後、該布帛のループパイルを通常の方法によりカットし立毛布帛とする。 First, after weaving and weaving a pile fabric composed of a ground tissue portion made of the organic fiber yarn and having a knitted fabric structure and a loop pile portion made of the polyester fiber, the loop pile of the fabric is Cut by the method to make a raised fabric.
その際、立毛部を構成する立毛糸は1種類でもよいが、互いに立毛糸高さを異にする2種以上の立毛糸が含まれ、かつこれらの立毛糸が、明度または色相、あるいは明度および色相において、互いに異なっていることが好ましい。このように、立毛高さと色彩が異なる多種類の立毛糸が立毛部に含まれていると、勾配部を形成した際、勾配部の勾配に沿って色彩が徐々に変化するので特に優れた高級感が得られる。例えば、無着色(白色)かつ立毛糸高さの高い立毛糸と、着色されかつ立毛糸高さの低い立毛糸で立毛部を構成し、エッチング処理により勾配部を形成すると、立毛部の高さが高いところは白色に見え、一方立毛部の高さが低いところは有色に見え、しかも勾配に沿って白色から有色へと徐々に色彩が変化するので、高級感が得られる。また、立毛糸高さの高い立毛糸と立毛糸高さの低い立毛糸との中間の立毛糸高さを有する立毛糸が含まれ、かつ中間の立毛糸高さを有する立毛糸が他の色に着色されていると、多様な色彩の変化が得られ、さらに高級感が向上する。 At that time, the napped yarn constituting the napped portion may be one type, but two or more types of napped yarns having different napped yarn heights are included, and these napped yarns have lightness or hue, lightness and The hues are preferably different from each other. In this way, if the napped portion contains many types of napped yarns that are different in color from the napped height, when the gradient portion is formed, the color gradually changes along the gradient of the gradient portion. A feeling is obtained. For example, when a raised portion is composed of a raised fiber having no color (white color) and having a high raised yarn height and a raised fiber having a colored and low raised yarn height, and forming a gradient portion by etching, the height of the raised portion is obtained. The area where the height is high looks white, while the area where the raised portion is low looks colored, and the color gradually changes from white to colored along the gradient, so that a high-class feeling can be obtained. In addition, napped yarns having a napped yarn height intermediate between napped yarns having a high napped yarn height and napped yarns having a low napped yarn height are included, and napped yarns having an intermediate napped yarn height have other colors. If it is colored, various color changes can be obtained, and the sense of quality is further improved.
なお、立毛糸の高さを異ならせる方法としては、パイル布帛を製編織する際、立毛糸用糸条として、沸水収縮率が異なる2種以上の糸条を用いて立毛部を形成した後、熱処理する方法や、立毛糸用糸条として、非捲縮糸条と捲縮糸条とを同じに引き揃えて混繊させた混繊糸を用いて立毛部を形成した後、捲縮を発現させる方法などが例示される。 In addition, as a method of varying the height of the napped yarn, when the pile fabric is knitted or woven, after forming the napped portion using two or more types of yarn having different boiling water shrinkage rates as the napped yarn, Crimp is manifested after forming a raised portion using a blended yarn in which the non-crimped yarn and the crimped yarn are aligned and mixed as a method for heat treatment or as a raised yarn The method of making it etc. is illustrated.
次いで、該立毛布帛の立毛部に、化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去し、立毛部の高さを漸減させ、0.5〜10度の傾斜角度を有する勾配部を形成することにより、本発明の立毛布帛は容易に製造される。 Next, the napped portion of the napped fabric is partially removed by a chemical etching method, and the height of the napped portion is gradually reduced to form a gradient portion having an inclination angle of 0.5 to 10 degrees. The raised fabric of the invention is easily manufactured.
ここで、立毛部を化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去する際、エッチング処理液吐出孔の孔径が漸増する部分を有するロータリースクリーンを用いることが好ましい。かかるロータリースクリーンの表面には、エッチング処理液の吐出孔が複数穿孔されており、かつ少なくとも該吐出孔の孔径が漸増する部分がある。大きな孔径を有する吐出孔からは多量のエッチング処理液が吐出されるため、立毛部が深くエッチングされてパイル部の高さが低くなる。一方、小さな孔径を有する吐出孔からは少量のエッチング処理液しか吐出されないため、立毛部は浅くエッチングされる。その結果、前記立毛部の1以上の部分領域に勾配を形成することができる。 Here, when the napped portion is partially removed by a chemical etching method, it is preferable to use a rotary screen having a portion where the hole diameter of the etching treatment liquid discharge hole gradually increases. On the surface of the rotary screen, there are a plurality of etching solution discharge holes and at least a portion where the diameter of the discharge holes gradually increases. Since a large amount of the etching treatment liquid is discharged from the discharge hole having a large hole diameter, the napped portion is etched deeply and the height of the pile portion is lowered. On the other hand, since only a small amount of the etching treatment liquid is discharged from the discharge hole having a small hole diameter, the napped portion is etched shallowly. As a result, a gradient can be formed in one or more partial regions of the raised portion.
また、エッチングにより立毛部に模様を形成する場合、該ロータリースクリーンにこれに対応して模様状に吐出孔が配列している必要がある。例えば、立毛部に図4に例示するような正方形が平面的に連続する模様を形成する場合は、これに対応する模様状に吐出孔が配列している必要がある。 Further, when a pattern is formed on the napped portion by etching, it is necessary that the discharge holes are arranged in a pattern corresponding to the rotary screen. For example, in the case where a pattern in which squares as illustrated in FIG. 4 are planarly formed is formed in the napped portion, it is necessary that the discharge holes be arranged in a pattern corresponding to this.
前記ロータリースクリーンの本数としては、2〜5本であることが好ましい。1本目のロータリースクリーンで形成した勾配に、2本目以後のロータリースクリーンを用いてさらにエッチング処理を重ねて施すことにより、前記のような微細凹凸の少ない滑らかな勾配が得られる。なお、ロータリースクリーンの本数としては5本で十分であり、6本以上ではコストアップとなる恐れがある。 The number of the rotary screens is preferably 2-5. By subjecting the gradient formed by the first rotary screen to further etching using the second and subsequent rotary screens, a smooth gradient with few fine irregularities as described above can be obtained. Note that five rotary screens are sufficient, and six or more rotary screens may increase costs.
前記ロータリースクリーンの吐出孔の配列密度としては、経緯とも50〜90列/2.54cm程度が適当である。また、ロータリースクリーンからの吐出量としては、15〜25cm3/m2の範囲であることが好ましい。該吐出量が25cm3/m2よりも多いとアルカリ処理剤がアルカリ処理液が目詰まりを起こす恐れがある。逆に、該吐出量が15cm3/m2よりも少ないとアルカリ処理液が立毛部に付着する際に斑がでやすくなる恐れがある。 As the arrangement density of the discharge holes of the rotary screen, about 50 to 90 rows / 2.54 cm is appropriate for the background. Moreover, it is preferable that it is the range of 15-25 cm < 3 > / m < 2 > as the discharge amount from a rotary screen. When the discharge amount is more than 25 cm 3 / m 2 , the alkali treatment agent may cause clogging of the alkali treatment liquid. On the other hand, if the discharge amount is less than 15 cm 3 / m 2 , spots may be easily formed when the alkaline treatment liquid adheres to the raised portions.
前記複数本のロータリースクリーンにおいて、吐出孔の孔数および/または配列は同じでもよいし異なっていてもよい。たとえば、1本目のロータリースクリーンで立毛部に勾配を形成した後、2本目のロータリースクリーンでは、該勾配部の最小高さ側にのみ重ねてエッチング処理できるよう2本目のロータリースクリーンの吐出孔の孔数および/または配列を変えてもよい。同様に、3本目以後のロータリースクリーンについても、勾配部の最小高さ側にのみ重ねてエッチング処理できるよう吐出孔の孔数および/または配列を変えてもよい。 In the plurality of rotary screens, the number and / or arrangement of the ejection holes may be the same or different. For example, after the first rotary screen forms a gradient in the raised portion, the second rotary screen has a hole in the discharge hole of the second rotary screen so that it can be etched only on the minimum height side of the gradient portion. The number and / or arrangement may vary. Similarly, for the third and subsequent rotary screens, the number and / or arrangement of the discharge holes may be changed so that the etching process can be performed only on the minimum height side of the gradient portion.
前記アルカリ処理剤の種類としては特に限定されないが、例えば、30%リキッドアルカリの苛性ソーダ30〜70重量%と、固形分15%のエッチング用元糊(例えば、安達染料(株)製 セルパール587)70〜30重量%からなる粘度400〜800ポイズの捺染糊が好適に例示される。 The type of the alkali treating agent is not particularly limited. For example, 30 to 70% by weight of 30% liquid alkaline caustic soda and 15% solid content of an original paste for etching (for example, Cell Pearl 587 manufactured by Adachi Dye Co., Ltd.) 70 A printing paste having a viscosity of 400 to 800 poise comprising ˜30% by weight is preferably exemplified.
かくして得られた立毛布帛には、公知の着色プリント(例えば、特開2000−345483号に開示されたインクジェット式捺染)や常法の染色仕上げ加工が施されていてもよい。さらには、常法の撥水加工、紫外線遮蔽あるいは抗菌剤、消臭剤、防虫剤、蓄光剤、再帰反射剤、マイナスイオン発生剤等の機能を付与する各種加工を付加適用してもよい。 The raised fabric thus obtained may be subjected to a known colored print (for example, ink jet printing disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-345483) or a conventional dye finish. Furthermore, various processes that provide functions such as ordinary water-repellent processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, phosphorescent agents, retroreflective agents, and negative ion generators may be additionally applied.
次に本発明の実施例及び比較例を詳述するが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中の各測定項目は下記の方法で測定した。 Next, although the Example and comparative example of this invention are explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by these. In addition, each measurement item in an Example was measured with the following method.
沸水収縮率
周長1.125mの検尺機を用い、試料を10回転サンプリングしてかせを作り、そのかせをスケール板の吊るし釘にかけた後、下部にかせの総重量の1/30の荷重を吊るし、処理前のかせの長さL1を読む。次に荷重を外し、かせを木綿袋に入れて沸騰水に30分浸ける。その後かせを取り出し、ろ紙で水分を切って24時間風乾した後、再びスケール板の吊るし釘に掛け、下部に上記と同じ荷重を吊るし処理後のかせの長さL2を読み取る。沸水収縮率(BWS)は下記の式により算出した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を算出した。
BWS(%)=(L1−L2)/L1×100
Boiling water shrinkage rate Using a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125m, the sample was sampled 10 times to make a skein, and the skein was hung on the hanging nail of the scale plate, and then the load of 1/30 of the total weight of the skein And skein length L1 before processing is read. Then remove the load, put the skein in a cotton bag and immerse in boiling water for 30 minutes. Then, the skein is taken out, dried with filter paper and air-dried for 24 hours. Then, it is again hung on the hanging nail of the scale plate, the same load as above is hung on the lower part, and the length L2 of the skein after processing is read. The boiling water shrinkage (BWS) was calculated by the following formula. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated.
BWS (%) = (L1-L2) / L1 × 100
捲縮率
周長1.125mの検尺機を用いて総繊度3333dtexのかせを作り、そのかせをスケール板の吊るし釘にかけ下部に6gの初荷重と600gの荷重を吊るし、かせの長さL0を読み取った後、速やかに荷重を外すとともにスケール板より外し、沸騰水に30分浸けて、捲縮発現処理を行う。その後かせを取り出し、ろ紙で水分を切って24時間風乾した後、再びスケール板に吊るし、前記荷重を掛けて1分後のかせの長さL1を読み取り、次いで、速やかにこの荷重を外し1分後のかせの長さL2を読み取る。捲縮率は、下記の式により算出した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を算出した。
捲縮率(%)=(L1−L2)/L0×100
Crimp rate Using a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125m, make a skein with a total fineness of 3333dtex, hang the skein on the hanging nail of the scale plate and hang the initial load of 6g and the load of 600g on the lower part, and the skein length L0 After reading, the load is removed immediately and the scale plate is removed and immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to perform crimp expression processing. Then take out the skein, dry it with filter paper and air dry for 24 hours, hang it on the scale plate again, apply the load, read the skein length L1 after 1 minute, and then quickly remove this load for 1 minute. Read the rear skein length L2. The crimp rate was calculated by the following formula. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated.
Crimp rate (%) = (L1-L2) / L0 × 100
傾斜角度A
長さ5cm×5cmの正方形の試料を布帛の長さ方向に対してタテおよびヨコ方向に裁断して、キーエンス(株)製デジタルマイクロスコープVHXを使用して、立毛部の最頂部からアルカリ処理された最下部への傾斜方向と、水平方向との傾斜角度A(度)を測定した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を求めた。
Inclination angle A
A 5 cm x 5 cm square sample is cut in the vertical and horizontal directions with respect to the length direction of the fabric, and is alkali-treated from the top of the raised portion using a digital microscope VHX manufactured by Keyence Corporation. The inclination angle A (degree) between the inclination direction toward the bottom and the horizontal direction was measured. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.
深度差H
長さ5cm×5cmの正方形の試料を布帛の長さ方向に対してタテおよびヨコ方向に裁断して、キーエンス(株)製デジタルマイクロスコープVHXを使用して、立毛部の最頂部からアルカリ処理された最下部までの深さH(mm)を測定した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を求めた。
Depth difference H
A 5 cm x 5 cm square sample is cut in the vertical and horizontal directions with respect to the length direction of the fabric, and is alkali-treated from the top of the raised portion using a digital microscope VHX manufactured by Keyence Corporation. The depth H (mm) to the bottom was measured. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.
勾配部の長さW
長さ5cm×5cmの正方形の試料を布帛の長さ方向に対してタテおよびヨコ方向に裁断して、キーエンス(株)製デジタルマイクロスコープVHXを使用して、図1に示す勾配部の長さW(mm)を測定した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を求めた。
Gradient length W
A square sample having a length of 5 cm × 5 cm is cut in the vertical and horizontal directions with respect to the length direction of the fabric, and the length of the gradient portion shown in FIG. 1 is obtained using a digital microscope VHX manufactured by Keyence Corporation. W (mm) was measured. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.
(6)勾配部の単位面積当たりの凹部個数および凹部比率
明石ビームテクノロジー(株)製の走査型電子顕微鏡SX−40を使用して、勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域において、面積0.05mm2以上の凹部の個数(個/cm2)を測定し凹部個数とした。また、下記式により凹部比率(%)を算出した。なお、n数は5でその平均値を求めた。
凹部比率(%)=(面積0.05mm2以上の凹部の総面積)/(勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域の面積)×100
(6) The number of recesses and the ratio of the recesses per unit area of the gradient portion Using the scanning electron microscope SX-40 manufactured by Akashi Beam Technology Co., Ltd., the area 0. The number of recesses (number / cm 2 ) of 05 mm 2 or more was measured and used as the number of recesses. Moreover, the recessed part ratio (%) was computed by the following formula. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.
Recess ratio (%) = (total area of recesses having an area of 0.05 mm 2 or more) / (area of 40% region on the maximum height side of the gradient portion) × 100
高級感
試験者3人により、高級感を下記4段階に分類し評価した。
5級 高級感の点で特に優れている。
4級 高級感の点で優れている。
3級 高級感の点でやや良好である。
2級 高級感の点でやや不満足である。
1級 高級感の点で不良である。
High-quality feeling The high-quality feeling was classified into the following four stages and evaluated by three testers.
Grade 5 Excellent in terms of luxury.
Grade 4 Excellent in terms of luxury.
Grade 3 Slightly good in terms of luxury.
Second grade A little unsatisfactory in terms of luxury.
1st grade Poor in terms of luxury.
[実施例1]
通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条(ヤーンカウント:56dtex/24本、沸水収縮率10%、帝人ファイバー(株)製)と通常のポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸条(ヤーンカウント:84dtex/72本、捲縮率25%、帝人ファイバー(株)製)とを公知のインターレースノズルを用いて空気混繊させたポリエステル混繊糸条(ヤーンカウント:140dtex/96本)を立毛布帛の立毛糸用糸条として用い、一方、地組織形成用糸条として通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条(ヤーンカウント:56dtex/24本、帝人ファイバー(株)製)を用い、これらのフィラメント糸条を28ゲージのトリコット経編機(カールマイヤー社製)の筬(おさ)のすべてに供給して下記編組織で編密度69コース/2.54cm、28ウエール/2.54cmのパイル編物を編成した。
地組織:バックハーフ組織(バック:23/10、フロント:10/12による編方)
得られた編物を(株)日阪製作所製液流染色機にて130℃×30分間染色を行なった。染色後、常法の下加工(フルカット起毛→シャーリング→毛割→シャーリング→プレセット)を施し、カットパイル(立毛長2mm)を有する編密度64コース/2.54cm、35ウエール/2.54cmの立毛布帛(立毛糸密度が97217dtex/cm2)を得た。
[Example 1]
Normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (yarn count: 56 dtex / 24, boiling water shrinkage 10%, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) and normal polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (yarn count: 84 dtex / 72) Polyester yarn (yarn count: 140 dtex / 96) obtained by air-mixing with a known interlace nozzle with a crimping rate of 25%, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) On the other hand, normal polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (yarn count: 56 dtex / 24, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) was used as the yarn for forming the ground texture, and these filament yarns were subjected to 28 gauge tricot warping. Supplied to all the knives of the knitting machine (Karlmeier) It was to organize the pile knitted fabric of the knitting density 69 course /2.54cm,28 wales /2.54cm the following knitting structure.
Ground organization: Back half organization (Back: 23/10, Front: 10/12 knitting)
The obtained knitted fabric was dyed at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes using a liquid flow dyeing machine manufactured by Nisaka Corporation. After dyeing, it is pre-processed (full cut brushing → shearing → hair split → shearing → preset) and has a knitting density of 64 courses / 2.54 cm, 35 wales / 2.54 cm with a cut pile (
かかるカットパイル布帛において、ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条で立毛糸高さの高い立毛糸が形成され、ポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸条で立毛糸高さの低い立毛糸が形成されていた。 In such a cut-pile fabric, a raised fiber having a high napped yarn height was formed from a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, and a raised fiber having a low napped yarn height was formed from a polyethylene terephthalate false twist crimped yarn.
一方、30%リキッドアルカリの苛性ソーダ54重量%と、固形分15%のエッチング用元糊(例えば、安達染料(株)製 セルパール587)46重量%からなる粘度600ポイズのアルカリ処理剤を用意した。 On the other hand, an alkali treating agent having a viscosity of 600 poise comprising 54% by weight of 30% liquid alkali caustic soda and 46% by weight of an original paste for etching having a solid content of 15% (for example, Cellpearl 587 manufactured by Adachi Dye Co., Ltd.) was prepared.
次いで、下記の吐出孔を有し吐出量が20.0cm3/m2のロータリースクリーン(高木彫刻(株)製)を3本使用して、前記立毛布帛の立毛部に、図5(濃色部が深くエッチングされている。)に示す模様状に勾配部を形成した。その際、3本のロータリースクリーンによるエッチング個所が重なるようにした。なお、立毛部に形成された該模様において、基本単位となる正方形の1辺の長さは1cmであった。 Next, using three rotary screens (manufactured by Takagi Engraving Co., Ltd.) having the following discharge holes and a discharge amount of 20.0 cm 3 / m 2 , FIG. 5 (dark color) The gradient portion was formed in the pattern shown in FIG. At that time, etching portions by three rotary screens were overlapped. In addition, in the pattern formed in the raised portion, the length of one side of the square serving as the basic unit was 1 cm.
(吐出孔)
配列密度:経緯とも70列/2.54cm
図5に示す模様に対応して吐出孔が分布(最濃色部に対応する位置に最も孔径の大きい吐出孔が配され、淡色部にかけて徐々に孔径の小さい吐出孔を配し、最淡色部に対応する位置は無孔とする。)
吐出孔の形状:直径0.068mm
そして、該布帛を温度130℃、時間5分で乾熱乾燥した後、温度165℃、時間8分間の高温スチーマー処理を施し、湯洗い、水洗いをして、立毛部が化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去されることにより立毛部に複数の勾配部が形成されている立毛布帛を得た。
(Discharge hole)
Array density: 70 rows / 2.54 cm with history
The discharge holes are distributed corresponding to the pattern shown in FIG. 5 (the discharge holes with the largest hole diameter are arranged at positions corresponding to the darkest color portions, and the discharge holes with the small hole diameters are gradually arranged over the light color portions to obtain the lightest color portions. The position corresponding to is non-porous.)
Shape of discharge hole: 0.068mm in diameter
The fabric is dried and dried at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 5 minutes, and then subjected to a high temperature steamer treatment at a temperature of 165 ° C. for 8 minutes, washed with hot water and washed with water. As a result, the napped fabric having a plurality of gradient portions formed on the napped portion was obtained.
該立毛布帛において、勾配部の傾斜角度Aが2度、深度差Hが0.8mm、勾配部の長さWが10mmであった。また、勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域において、単位面積当たりの凹部個数が90個/cm2、凹部比率2%であり、勾配部表面に微細凹凸が少なく滑らかであった。さらに、勾配部の勾配に沿って立毛部の高さが高いところは淡色に見え、一方立毛部の高さが低いところは影になって濃色に見え、しかも勾配に沿って淡色から濃色へと徐々に濃淡が変化するので、高級感の点で優れているもの(4級)であった。 In the raised fabric, the inclination angle A of the gradient portion was 2 degrees, the depth difference H was 0.8 mm, and the length W of the gradient portion was 10 mm. Further, in the 40% region on the maximum height side of the gradient portion, the number of concave portions per unit area was 90 / cm 2 and the concave portion ratio was 2%, and the surface of the gradient portion was smooth with few fine irregularities. Furthermore, the portion where the height of the raised portion is high along the gradient of the gradient portion appears light, while the portion where the height of the raised portion is low appears as a shadow and appears dark, and the light to dark color along the gradient. Since the shading gradually changes, it was excellent in terms of luxury (4th grade).
[実施例2]
ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条(ヤーンカウント:56dtex/72本、帝人ファイバー(株)製)をヒーター長:2m、熱処理温度:200℃、熱処理速度:500m/min、オーバーフィード率:5%の条件下で熱処理をした沸水収縮率3%の非捲縮ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条を得た。
[Example 2]
Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (yarn count: 56 dtex / 72, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) with heater length: 2 m, heat treatment temperature: 200 ° C., heat treatment speed: 500 m / min, overfeed rate: 5% A non-crimped polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 3% was obtained by heat treatment.
別に、黒色顔料により樹脂着色されたポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸条(ヤーンカウント:84dtex/36本、捲縮率25%、帝人ファイバー(株)製)を得た。 Separately, a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn (resin colored with a black pigment) (yarn count: 84 dtex / 36, crimp rate 25%, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) was obtained.
また別に、カチオン染料可染性のポリエチレンテレフタレート(帝人ファイバー(株)製)を溶融紡糸し、3500m/分の巻き取り速度で巻き取った、カチオン染料可染性の部分配向未延伸ポリエチレンテレフタレート糸条を、延伸装置の温度65℃の第一ローラーと温度75℃の第2ローラーの間で熱セットを施すことなく延伸倍率1.4倍で延伸することにより、沸水収縮率45%の非捲縮ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条(ヤーンカウント:56dtex/24本)を得た。 Separately, cationic dye dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (manufactured by Teijin Fibers Limited) was melt spun and wound at a winding speed of 3500 m / min. Is stretched at a stretch ratio of 1.4 times without applying heat between the first roller having a temperature of 65 ° C. and the second roller having a temperature of 75 ° C. Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (yarn count: 56 dtex / 24) was obtained.
次いで、これらの3糸条を公知のインターレースノズルを用いて空気混繊させたポリエステル混繊糸条(ヤーンカウント:205dtex/132本)を立毛布帛の立毛糸用糸条として用い、一方、地組織形成用糸条として通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条(ヤーンカウント:167dtex/48本、沸水収縮率10%、帝人ファイバー(株)製)を用い、これらのフィラメント糸条を28ゲージのポールシンカーを備えたトリコット経編機(カールマイヤー社製)の筬(おさ)のすべてに供給して下記編組織で編密度66コース/2.54cm、28ウエール/2.54cmのパイル編物を編成した。
組織:バック:10/12、フロント:10/01
Next, a polyester mixed yarn (yarn count: 205 dtex / 132) obtained by air-mixing these three yarns using a known interlace nozzle was used as the yarn for the napped fabric, while the ground texture was used. Usual polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (yarn count: 167 dtex / 48, boiling water shrinkage 10%, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) was used as a forming yarn, and these filament yarns were equipped with a 28 gauge pole sinker. A pile knitted fabric having a knitting density of 66 courses / 2.54 cm and 28 wales / 2.54 cm was knitted with the following knitting structure by supplying it to all the cocoons of a tricot warp knitting machine (manufactured by KARL MAYER).
Organization: Back: 10/12, Front: 10/01
得られたループパイル布帛をシャーリング機(日機(株)製)に供して、ループパイルの先端部分0.2mmをカットして、カットパイルを形成した。このカットパイル布帛を、乾熱セッターに供して、拡布状態において、温度:180℃、時間:45秒間の熱処理を施して、カットパイル中の非捲縮ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条を安定化し、顔料により樹脂着色されたポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチ仮撚捲縮加工糸条の捲縮を十分に形成させ、かつ非捲縮カチオン染料可染性ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条を十分に熱収縮させた。 The obtained loop pile fabric was subjected to a shearing machine (manufactured by Nikkiki Co., Ltd.), and the tip portion of the loop pile 0.2 mm was cut to form a cut pile. The cut pile fabric is subjected to a dry heat setter and subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature of 180 ° C. for a time of 45 seconds in the expanded state to stabilize the non-crimped polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarns in the cut pile, and the pigment The resin-colored polyethylene terephthalate multi false twist crimped yarn was sufficiently crimped and the non-crimped cationic dyeable dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn was sufficiently heat-shrinked.
かかるカットパイル布帛において、非捲縮ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント糸条で最も立毛糸高さの高い立毛糸2が形成され、非捲縮カチオン染料可染性ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条で最も立毛糸高さの低い立毛糸4が形成され、顔料により樹脂着色されたポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚捲縮加工糸条で中間の立毛糸高さの立毛糸3が形成されていた。
In such a cut pile fabric, the napped
得られたカットパイル布帛に、(株)日阪製作所製液流染色機にてカチオン染料(青色)を用い130℃×30分間染色を行なった。染色後、乾燥、プレセットを施しカットパイル(立毛糸の高さ2mm)を有する編密度68コース/2.54cm、30ウエール/2.54cmの立毛布帛(立毛糸密度が129,642dtex/cm2)を得た。得られた立毛布帛に対し、実施例1と同様にアルカリ処理剤を用い、同様の加工を実施した。
The obtained cut pile fabric was dyed at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes using a cationic dye (blue) with a liquid dyeing machine manufactured by Nisaka Corporation. After dyeing, drying, pre-setting and knitting density 68 course / 2.54 cm, 30 wale / 2.54 cm napped fabric (cut nap density is 129,642 dtex / cm 2 ) having cut pile (height of raised
該立毛布帛において、図2に模式的に示すように勾配部が形成されており、勾配部の勾配角度Aが2度、深度差Hが0.8mm、勾配部の長さWが10mmであった。また、勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域において、単位面積当たりの凹部個数が100個/cm2、凹部比率5%であり、勾配部表面に微細凹凸が少なく滑らかであった。さらに、勾配部の勾配に沿って立毛部の高さが最も高いところは白色に見え、次いで黒色、そして、立毛部の高さが最も低いところが、黒色と青色とが混ざった色に見え、高級感の点で非常に優れているもの(5級)であった。 As shown schematically in FIG. 2, the raised fabric is formed with a gradient portion, the gradient angle A of the gradient portion is 2 degrees, the depth difference H is 0.8 mm, and the length W of the gradient portion is 10 mm. It was. Further, in the 40% region on the maximum height side of the gradient portion, the number of concave portions per unit area was 100 / cm 2 and the concave portion ratio was 5%, and the surface of the gradient portion was smooth with few fine irregularities. Furthermore, the portion where the height of the raised portion along the gradient of the gradient portion is white appears white, then black, and the portion where the height of the raised portion is lowest appears to be a mixed color of black and blue. It was very excellent in terms of feeling (grade 5).
[実施例3]
実施例2において、ロータリースクリーンの本数を2本に変えること以外は実施例2と同様にして立毛部が化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去されることにより立毛部に勾配が形成されている立毛布帛を得た。
[Example 3]
In Example 2, except that the number of rotary screens is changed to two, the napped portion is partially removed by a chemical etching method in the same manner as in Example 2, and the napped portion is formed with a gradient. A fabric was obtained.
該立毛布帛において、勾配部の勾配角度Aが2度、深度差Hが0.8mm、勾配部の長さWが10mm、勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域において、単位面積当たりの凹部個数が120個/cm2、凹部比率20%であり、勾配部表面に微細凹凸が少し見られたが、高級感の点で優れているもの(4級)であった。 In the raised fabric, the slope angle A of the slope portion is 2 degrees, the depth difference H is 0.8 mm, the length W of the slope portion is 10 mm, and the number of recesses per unit area in the maximum height side 40% region of the slope portion. Was 120 pieces / cm 2 , the recess ratio was 20%, and a slight unevenness was observed on the surface of the gradient part, but it was excellent (class 4) in terms of luxury.
[実施例4]
実施例2で得られた立毛布帛に、通常のインクジェットにより着色プリントを施した。着色プリントを施された該布帛は、見る角度によって深みがありかつ緻密な勾配差のある外観であり優れるものであった。
[Example 4]
The raised fabric obtained in Example 2 was colored and printed by ordinary ink jet. The fabric on which the colored print was applied was excellent in appearance with a deep and dense gradient difference depending on the viewing angle.
[実施例5]
実施例1において、ロータリースクリーンの吐出量を26.3cm3/m2に変更しかつロータリースクリーンの本数を1本に変えること以外は実施例1と同様にして、立毛部を化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去することにより、立毛部に微細凹凸の多い勾配が形成されている立毛布帛を得た。
[Example 5]
In Example 1, the napped portion was formed by a chemical etching method in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the discharge amount of the rotary screen was changed to 26.3 cm 3 / m 2 and the number of rotary screens was changed to 1. By removing partially, the napped fabric in which the napped portion has a gradient with many fine irregularities was obtained.
該立毛布帛において、勾配部の勾配角度Aが2度、深度差Hが0.8mm、勾配部の長さWが10mmであった。また、勾配部分の最大高さ側40%領域において、単位面積当たりの凹部個数が150個/cm2、凹部比率25%であり、勾配部表面に微細凹凸が見られたが、高級感の点でやや良好(3級)であった。 In the raised fabric, the gradient angle A of the gradient portion was 2 degrees, the depth difference H was 0.8 mm, and the length W of the gradient portion was 10 mm. Further, in the 40% region on the maximum height side of the gradient portion, the number of concave portions per unit area was 150 / cm 2 and the concave portion ratio was 25%, and fine irregularities were seen on the surface of the gradient portion. Slightly good (3rd grade).
本発明の立毛布帛は、立毛部表面に緩やかな勾配部を有し高級感に富むため、車輌内装材、インテリア資材、衣料などの分野に好適に使用することができ、高い実用性を有するものである。 The napped fabric of the present invention has a gentle slope on the napped surface and is rich in luxury, so it can be suitably used in the fields of vehicle interior materials, interior materials, clothing, etc., and has high practicality. It is.
Claims (2)
立毛部を化学的エッチング法で部分的に除去する際、エッチング処理液吐出孔の孔径が漸増する部分を有するロータリースクリーンを用いることを特徴とする立毛布帛の製造方法。A method for producing a napped fabric characterized by using a rotary screen having a portion in which the hole diameter of the etching treatment liquid discharge hole gradually increases when the napped portion is partially removed by a chemical etching method.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
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JP2003417640 | 2003-12-16 | ||
JP2003417640 | 2003-12-16 | ||
PCT/JP2004/018957 WO2005059237A1 (en) | 2003-12-16 | 2004-12-13 | Plush fabric and method for production thereof |
Publications (2)
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JPWO2005059237A1 JPWO2005059237A1 (en) | 2007-07-12 |
JP4500266B2 true JP4500266B2 (en) | 2010-07-14 |
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JP2005516376A Expired - Fee Related JP4500266B2 (en) | 2003-12-16 | 2004-12-13 | Method for producing napped fabric |
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US (1) | US20070122585A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP1703013A1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP4500266B2 (en) |
KR (1) | KR20060129254A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1914369A (en) |
TW (1) | TW200525065A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2005059237A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (10)
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WO2006109865A1 (en) * | 2005-04-08 | 2006-10-19 | Seiren Co., Ltd. | Woven fabric for embossing |
KR101093542B1 (en) * | 2006-04-12 | 2011-12-13 | 코오롱글로텍주식회사 | 3-demensional etching method for fabric, and fabric prepared therefrom |
US7575027B2 (en) * | 2007-01-05 | 2009-08-18 | Min-San Huang | Weave with visual color variation |
US7673378B1 (en) * | 2007-02-22 | 2010-03-09 | Product Concepts Residential, L.L.C. | Method of manufacturing decorative carpet tile |
WO2012063316A1 (en) * | 2010-11-08 | 2012-05-18 | 株式会社ワコール | Knitted fabric and garment with crotch |
CN104032464B (en) * | 2014-05-29 | 2016-05-18 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | A kind of three-dimensional brushed cloth fabric and preparation method thereof |
CN209397345U (en) * | 2018-10-05 | 2019-09-17 | 尤尼吉可贸易有限公司 | Single pile knitted fabric and shoes built-in fitting |
CN113039062B (en) * | 2018-11-16 | 2023-05-26 | 电化株式会社 | Thermoplastic resin sheet having wool and molded article thereof |
CH716114A1 (en) * | 2019-04-24 | 2020-10-30 | Schoeller Tech Ag | Flat velor knitted fabric. |
CN112981693A (en) * | 2021-02-24 | 2021-06-18 | 浙江真爱时尚家居有限公司 | Warp knitting and cut pile production method of Raschel blanket |
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- 2004-12-09 TW TW093138137A patent/TW200525065A/en unknown
- 2004-12-13 WO PCT/JP2004/018957 patent/WO2005059237A1/en active Application Filing
- 2004-12-13 EP EP04807314A patent/EP1703013A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2004-12-13 CN CNA2004800416350A patent/CN1914369A/en active Pending
- 2004-12-13 US US10/582,789 patent/US20070122585A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2004-12-13 KR KR1020067013898A patent/KR20060129254A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2004-12-13 JP JP2005516376A patent/JP4500266B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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JPWO2005059237A1 (en) | 2007-07-12 |
EP1703013A1 (en) | 2006-09-20 |
WO2005059237A1 (en) | 2005-06-30 |
TW200525065A (en) | 2005-08-01 |
US20070122585A1 (en) | 2007-05-31 |
KR20060129254A (en) | 2006-12-15 |
CN1914369A (en) | 2007-02-14 |
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