FR2690930A1 - Velvet knit jacquard effect made on a knit loom and method for obtaining it. - Google Patents

Abstract

Knitted velvet with a Jacquard effect, made on a warp-knitting machine (tricot machine) equipped with loop-forming sinkers and capable of comprising only two guide bars (I, II), of the type in which the pile effects obtained from the front bar of the machine (bar II), the rear bar (bar I) serving for forming the ground of the knit, the said front bar (II) being threaded with an arrangement of threads of different colours. It is characterised in that the knitting weave of the front bar forming the loops intended to constitute the pile of the knit after treatment is such that it comprises groups of stitches cast on one needle, which are separated from one another by an alternation of stitches cast under a plurality of needles of different values.

Description

KNITTED VELVET WITH EFFECTS JACQUARD REALIZED ON A TRADE

  JETME MESH AND METHOD FOR OBTAINING IT.

  The present invention relates to a new type of velvet knit with jacquard effects made on a knit loom knit (warp loom); it also relates to a knitting process

  allowing to obtain such a knit.

  Among all the solutions proposed to date for making velvet-type fabrics, one of the most widespread is to use so-called "knit looms" knitting looms having at least two guide bars, one to make the bottom knitting, or the others to achieve the hair that is obtained during a subsequent finishing treatment (scraping, shaving) with the presence of floats or

  loops formed on one of the faces of the knit.

  In addition to the traditional solution of making the bar for forming the hairs in an armor such that is made throws under several needles (three or four), we use more and more frequently chain trades that include a bar additional platinum on which the son are deposited in the form of loops as is apparent from US Patent 4,003,222 Such trades are in particular marketed by the company LIBA under the name "COPCENTRA POL" It is also possible to adapt trades chain Conventional to equip them with such a loop bars forming loops This technique gives velvet articles having a very high density of bristles, the latter being perfectly bonded to the bottom of the knit It is particularly suitable for making plain knits or having effects of stripes, chevrons or combinations of such motifs, but on the other hand, it does not make it possible to obtain Jacquard-type effects and more particularly, scattered color patterns so that in the finished article they appear randomly distributed,

randomly without apparent relationship.

  However, it has been found, and this is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible, from a warp knitting machine equipped with loops forming traps and can have only two bars to passettes, to achieve a new type of knitting with jacquard effects such as in the finished article, they seem to be

scattered randomly.

  In general, the new type of velvet knit according to the invention is of the type in which the bristle effects are obtained from the front bar of the loom, the rear bar serving to constitute the bottom of the knit, said front bar being threaded with an arrangement of threads of different colors, and it is characterized in that the knitting armor of the front bar forming the loops intended to form the pile of the knit after treatment, is such that it comprises groups of jetties on a needle separated from each other by alternating piers underneath

  several needles of different values.

  According to one embodiment according to which the knit according to the invention has a jacquard aspect consisting of small motifs of generally square shape and of different colors, the knitting armor of the bar distributing the threads forming the loops is such that it includes, in a report, six successions of four rows of meshes formed on a needle, separated from each other by piers under a plurality of needles having two values distinctly different from each other, the ratio of the length between the two types of piers under being of

  preferably greater than 2 and advantageously equal to 3.

  As an indication, in a concrete form of realization of this type of article, the piers under short length are made under four needles, while those of great length are made under twelve needles. Such a type of velvet can be made by means of a method which is also part of the invention, a knitting process which, compared to the traditional method of making velvet knits, is characterized in that the flow rate is cyclically varied. the feeding of the son intended to form the loops, so as to have a supercharging during the phase of realization of the jetties under long lengths, supercharging which begins before the end of the formation of the last mesh preceding the realization of said large

jetty under.

  The invention and the advantages that it brings will however be better understood thanks to the embodiment given hereinafter by way of indication but not limitation, and which is illustrated by the single appended figure which is the conventional graphical representation of a knit made

according to the invention.

  The single appended FIGURE illustrates a concrete example of realization of a velvet knit according to the invention, obtained on a conventional chain loom of the COPCENTRA-POL type of the company LIBA, equipped only with two guide bars having a gauge 28 (28 needles in, 4 mm) The operation of such a trade being well known to the technicians and coming out of PUS-A-4 003 222, will not be described in detail

as a simplification measure.

  The article according to the invention is obtained by threading the two solid knitting bars from a 76 dtex / 24-strand polyester yarn having received a FIF type treatment (fixed false twist). The yarns of the back bar ( bar I) are yarns of plain colors (white), whereas the yarns of the front bar (bar II) intended to form the pile of the knit is, for its part, strung in color from six types of yarns. different, respectively: hurricane (A), turquoise (B), haze (C), ocher (D), brown (E), blue (F), according to the following sequence:

  4 A, 2 B, 2 C, 4 A, 2 D, 2 C, 4 A, 2 F, 2 C, 4 A, 2 B, 2 C, 4 A, 2 E, 2 C, 4 A, 2 E , 2 C,

  forty-eight threads in a warping report (2 times 1104 threads on the

  knitting width) (about two meters).

  The knit according to the invention is made using an armor as shown in the appended figure, and whose assembly is as follows: rear bar I: / 1 0 1/1 2 1 front bar II:

  1.0 0/0 I 1/1 0 0/0 1 * / 5 4 4/4 5 5/5 4 4/4 5 * / 17 16 16/16 17 17 /

  17 16/16 17 * / 21 20 20/20 21 21/21 20 20/20 21 * / 9 8 8/8 9 9/9 8 8/8 9 * /

  13.12 12/12 13 13/13 12 12/12 13 *

  In the armor above, the sign "*" designates transition links whose profile is adapted to allow to perform the great

pier.

  Such a type of weave makes it possible to obtain a knit according to the invention which comprises, on the one hand, a succession of rows of stitches (4) separated from one another by piers under several needles alternatively of different length, to to know successively four needles then twelve needles It should be noted that thanks to this type of armor, one obtains a dispersed distribution of the groups of stitches in a way that can be compared to the existing creations in a satin weave of a warp fabric and frame, and which provides, after finishing treatment of the article (brushing / shaving), colored patterns in the form of small squares, of different colors, such as one obtains an aspect not appearing have apparent report and having no locking effect, scratch or diagonal. To achieve such armor, according to the method according to the invention, the flow of the son of the bar It is changed intermittently,

  while that of bar I is constant.

  In an illustrated embodiment, the flow rate of the bar I is set at 2.55 mm per mesh, while that of the bar II is set so that at each different realization of piers under, during the production of the last row which precedes it (namely row referenced 45 *, 20 21 * and 12.13 *), it passes abruptly to 11.9 mm (zone D 2) while it is 8.7 mm

  for the previous seven meshes (zone Dl).

  Such a velvet article that can be used in many applications is particularly suitable for achieving the coverage of a

automobile seat in particular.

  Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiment described above, but it covers all variants

realized in the same spirit.

Claims (3)

  1 / Velvet knit Jacquard effect made on a knit loom (warp loom) equipped with loops forming loops and can contain only two rods (3), of the type in which the hair effects are obtained from of the front bar of the loom (bar II), the rear bar (bar I) serving to constitute the bottom of the knit, said front bar (II) being threaded with a disposition of yarns of different colors, characterized in that the armor of knitting of the front bar forming the loops intended to constitute the pile of the knit after treatment, is such that it comprises groups of jetties on a needle separated from each other by an alternation of jetties under   several needles of different values.   2 / knit velvet according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a Jacquard appearance consisting of small patterns of generally square shape and of different colors, the knitting armor of the bar distributing the son forming the loops being such that it comprises, in one report, six successions of four rows of meshes formed on a needle, separated from each other by piers under a plurality of needles having two values distinctly different from each other, the ratio of the length between the two types of piers under being of   preferably greater than 2 and advantageously equal to 3. 7 2690930   3 / Process for producing a Jacquard velvet knit   according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that during the   knitting, is cyclically varied the feed rate of the son to form the loops, so as to have a supercharging during the phase of realization of the jetties under long lengths, supercharging which begins before the end of the formation of the last   mesh preceding the realization of said large pier under.