EP0569304A1 - Knitted velvet with jacquard effects made on a warp knitting machine and method for obtaining it - Google Patents
Knitted velvet with jacquard effects made on a warp knitting machine and method for obtaining it Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0569304A1 EP0569304A1 EP93420172A EP93420172A EP0569304A1 EP 0569304 A1 EP0569304 A1 EP 0569304A1 EP 93420172 A EP93420172 A EP 93420172A EP 93420172 A EP93420172 A EP 93420172A EP 0569304 A1 EP0569304 A1 EP 0569304A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- bar
- knitting
- jacquard
- threads
- forming
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2505/00—Industrial
- D10B2505/08—Upholstery, mattresses
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a new type of velvet knit having jacquard effects produced on a knitted loom knitting machine (warp loom); it also relates to a knitting process for obtaining such a knitting.
- the new type of velvet knit according to the invention is of the type according to which the pile effects are obtained from the front bar of the loom, the rear bar serving to constitute the bottom of the knitted fabric, said front bar being strung with an arrangement of threads of different colors, and it is characterized in that the knitting armor of the front bar forming the loops intended to constitute the hairs of the knitted fabric after treatment, is such that it comprises groups of throws on a needle separated from each other by alternating jetties under several needles of different values.
- the knitting weave of the bar distributing the threads forming the loops is such that it comprises, in a report, six successions of four rows of stitches formed on a needle, separated from each other by jetties under a plurality of needles having two values clearly different from each other.
- length between the two types of piers below preferably being greater than 2 and advantageously equal to 3.
- short piers are made with four needles, while long ones are made with twelve needles.
- Such a type of velvet can be produced by a process which is also part of the invention, a knitting process which, compared to the traditional process for making velvet knits, is characterized in that the flow rate of the yarn is varied cyclically. 'feeding of the wires intended to form the loops, so as to have an overfeeding during the phase of making the piers at great lengths, supercharging which begins before the end of the formation of the last stitch preceding the making of said large pier under.
- the single appended figure illustrates a concrete example of the production of a velvet knit according to the invention, obtained on a conventional warp loom of the COPCENTRA-POL type from the company LIBA, equipped only with two pass bars having a gauge 28 (28 needles in 25.4 mm).
- the operation of such a trade being well known to technicians and coming from US-A-4 003 222, will not be described in detail for the sake of simplification.
- the article according to the invention is obtained by threading the two full knitting bars from a 76 dtex / 24-strand polyester yarn having received a FTF type treatment (fixed false twist).
- the threads of the rear bar (bar I) are solid colored threads (white), while the threads of the front bar (bar II) intended to form the pile of the knitted fabric are threaded in from six different types of wire, respectively: hurricane (A), turquoise (B), mist (C), ocher (D), brown (E), blue (F), according to the following sequence: 4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2D, 2C, 4A, 2F, 2C, 4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, i.e. forty-eight wires in a warp ratio (2 times 1104 threads across the knitting width) (about two meters).
- the sign "*" designates transition links whose profile is adapted to allow the large pier to be made.
- Such a type of weave makes it possible to obtain a knit according to the invention which comprises on the one hand, a succession of rows of stitches (4) separated from each other by throws under several needles alternately of different length, with to know successively four needles then twelve needles.
- a dispersed distribution of the mesh groups is obtained in a manner which can be compared to the existing notches in a satin weave of a warp and weft fabric, and which allows obtain, after finishing treatment of the article (brushing / shaving), colored patterns in the form of small squares, of different colors, such that an appearance does not appear to have any apparent relationship and does not include no lock, stripe or diagonal effect.
- the flow rate of the wires of the bar II is modified intermittently, while that of the bar I is constant.
- the flow rate of the bar I is adjusted to 2.55 mm per mesh, while that of the bar II is adjusted so that with each different embodiment of piers under, during the production of the last row preceding it (namely row referenced 4.5 *, 20.21 * and 12.13 *), it suddenly drops to 11.9 mm (zone D2) while it is 8.7 mm for the previous seven meshes (zone D1) .
- Such a velvet article which can be used in numerous applications is particularly suitable for making the cover of a car seat in particular.
Abstract
Description
La présente invention a trait à un nouveau type de tricot velours présentant des effets jacquard réalisés sur un métier à tricoter à mailles jetées (métier chaîne) ; elle concerne également un procédé de tricotage permettant l'obtention d'un tel tricot.The present invention relates to a new type of velvet knit having jacquard effects produced on a knitted loom knitting machine (warp loom); it also relates to a knitting process for obtaining such a knitting.
Parmi toutes les solutions proposées à ce jour pour réaliser des étoffes type velours, l'une des plus répandues consiste à utiliser des métiers à tricoter dits "à mailles jetées" comportant au moins deux barres à passettes, l'une permettant de réaliser le fond du tricot, la ou les autres permettant de réaliser le poil qui est obtenu lors d'un traitement de finition ultérieur (grattage, rasage) grâce à la présence de flottés ou bouclettes formés sur l'une des faces du tricot.Among all the solutions proposed to date for making fabrics of the velvet type, one of the most widespread consists in using knitting looms called "knitted stitches" comprising at least two bars with passers, one allowing to make the bottom knitting, the other (s) making it possible to produce the hair which is obtained during a subsequent finishing treatment (scraping, shaving) by virtue of the presence of floats or loops formed on one of the faces of the knitting.
Outre la solution classique qui consiste à faire travailler la barre destinée à former les poils selon une armure telle que l'on réalise des jetées sous plusieurs aiguilles (trois ou quatre), on utilise de plus en plus fréquemment des métiers chaîne qui comportent une barre à platine additionnelle sur laquelle les fils sont déposés sous la forme de boucles comme cela ressort du brevet US 4 003 222. De tels métiers sont notamment commercialisés par la Société LIBA sous la dénomination "COPCENTRA POL". Il est également possible d'adapter des métiers chaine conventionnels pour les équiper d'une telle barre à platines formant des bouclettes. Cette technique donne des articles velours ayant une très grande densité en poils, ces derniers étant parfaitement liés au fond du tricot. Elle est particulièrement adaptée pour réaliser des tricots unis ou présentant des effets de rayures, chevrons ou combinaisons de tels motifs, mais en revanche, elle ne permet pas d'obtenir des effets de type Jacquard et plus particulièrement, des motifs colorés dispersés de telle sorte que dans l'article fini, ils paraissent répartis de façon aléatoire, au hasard sans rapport apparent.In addition to the conventional solution which consists in making work the bar intended to form the hairs according to a weave such that one makes jetties under several needles (three or four), one uses more and more frequently of the looms chain which include a bar with additional plate on which the wires are deposited in the form of loops as is apparent from US Pat. No. 4,003,222. Such trades are notably marketed by the LIBA Company under the name "COPCENTRA POL". It is also possible to adapt conventional chain looms to equip them with such a bar with plates forming loops. This technique gives velvet articles with a very high density of pile, the latter being perfectly linked to the bottom of the knit. It is particularly suitable for making plain knits or having stripes, chevrons or combinations of such patterns, but on the other hand, it does not make it possible to obtain Jacquard type effects and more particularly, dispersed colored patterns of so that in the finished article, they appear to be distributed randomly, at random with no apparent connection.
Or on a trouvé, et c'est ce qui fait l'objet de la présente invention, qu'il était possible, à partir d'un métier à tricoter chaîne équipé de platines de formation de bouclettes et ne pouvant comporter que seulement deux barres à passettes, de réaliser un nouveau type de tricot présentant des effets jacquard tels que dans l'article fini, ils semblent être dispersés de manière aléatoire.Now it has been found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible, from a warp knitting machine equipped with loops forming plates and able to have only two bars with passettes, to make a new type of knitting with jacquard effects such that in the finished article, they seem to be scattered randomly.
D'une manière générale, le nouveau type de tricot velours conforme à l'invention est du type selon lequel les effets poils sont obtenus à partir de la barre avant du métier, la barre arrière servant à constituer le fond du tricot, ladite barre avant étant enfilée avec une disposition de fils de couleurs différentes, et il se caractérise en ce que l'armure de tricotage de la barre avant formant les bouclettes destinées à constituer les poils du tricot après traitement, est telle qu'elle comporte des groupes de jetées sur une aiguille séparés les uns des autres par une alternance de jetées sous plusieurs aiguilles de valeurs différentes.In general, the new type of velvet knit according to the invention is of the type according to which the pile effects are obtained from the front bar of the loom, the rear bar serving to constitute the bottom of the knitted fabric, said front bar being strung with an arrangement of threads of different colors, and it is characterized in that the knitting armor of the front bar forming the loops intended to constitute the hairs of the knitted fabric after treatment, is such that it comprises groups of throws on a needle separated from each other by alternating jetties under several needles of different values.
Selon une forme de réalisation selon laquelle le tricot conforme à l'invention présente un aspect jacquard constitué de petits motifs de forme générale carrée et de coloris différents, l'armure de tricotage de la barre distribuant les fils formant les bouclettes est telle qu'elle comporte, dans un rapport, six successions de quatre rangées de mailles formées sur une aiguille, séparées les unes des autres par des jetées sous une pluralité d'aiguilles ayant deux valeurs nettement différentes l'une de l'autre., le rapport de la longueur entre les deux types de jetées sous étant de préférence supérieur à 2 et avantageusement égal à 3.According to an embodiment according to which the knitting according to the invention has a jacquard appearance consisting of small patterns of generally square shape and of different colors, the knitting weave of the bar distributing the threads forming the loops is such that it comprises, in a report, six successions of four rows of stitches formed on a needle, separated from each other by jetties under a plurality of needles having two values clearly different from each other. length between the two types of piers below preferably being greater than 2 and advantageously equal to 3.
A titre indicatif, dans une forme concrète de réalisation de ce type d'article, les jetées sous de courte longueur sont réalisées sous quatre aiguilles, alors que celles de grande longueur sont réalisées sous douze aiguilles.As an indication, in a concrete embodiment of this type of article, short piers are made with four needles, while long ones are made with twelve needles.
Un tel type de velours peut être réalisé grâce à un procédé qui fait également partie de l'invention, procédé de tricotage qui par rapport au procédé traditionnel permettant de réaliser des tricots velours, se caractérise en ce que on fait varier cycliquement le débit de l'alimentation des fils destinés à former les bouclettes, de manière à avoir une suralimentation pendant la phase de réalisation des jetées sous de grandes longueurs, suralimentation qui débute avant la fin de la formation de la dernière maille précédant la réalisation de ladite grande jetée sous.Such a type of velvet can be produced by a process which is also part of the invention, a knitting process which, compared to the traditional process for making velvet knits, is characterized in that the flow rate of the yarn is varied cyclically. 'feeding of the wires intended to form the loops, so as to have an overfeeding during the phase of making the piers at great lengths, supercharging which begins before the end of the formation of the last stitch preceding the making of said large pier under.
L'invention et les avantages qu'elle apporte seront cependant mieux compris grâce à l'exemple de réalisation donné ci-après à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, et qui est illustré par la figure unique annexée qui est la représentation graphique conventionnelle d'un tricot réalisé conformément à l'invention.The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the embodiment given below for information but not limitation, and which is illustrated by the single appended figure which is the conventional graphical representation of a knitting produced in accordance with the invention.
La figure unique annexée illustre un exemple concret de réalisation d'un tricot velours conforme à l'invention, obtenu sur un métier chaîne conventionnel du type COPCENTRA-POL de la société LIBA, équipé seulement de deux barres passettes ayant une jauge 28 (28 aiguilles dans 25,4 mm). Le fonctionnement d'un tel métier étant bien connu des techniciens et ressortant de l'US-A-4 003 222, ne sera pas décrit en détail par mesure de simplification.The single appended figure illustrates a concrete example of the production of a velvet knit according to the invention, obtained on a conventional warp loom of the COPCENTRA-POL type from the company LIBA, equipped only with two pass bars having a gauge 28 (28 needles in 25.4 mm). The operation of such a trade being well known to technicians and coming from US-A-4 003 222, will not be described in detail for the sake of simplification.
L'article conforme à l'invention est obtenu en enfilant les deux barres de tricotage pleines à partir d'un fil polyester de 76 dtex/24 brins ayant reçu un traitement de type FTF (fausse torsion fixée). Les fils de la barre arrière (barre I) sont des fils de coloris unis (blanc), alors que les fils de la barre avant (barre II) destinés à former le poil du tricot est, quant à elle, enfilée disposition de couleur à partir de six types de fils différents, respectivement :
ouragan (A),
turquoise (B),
brume (C),
ocre (D),
marron (E),
bleu (F),
selon la séquence suivante:
4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2D, 2C, 4A, 2F, 2C, 4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, soit quarante-huit fils dans un rapport d'ourdissage (2 fois 1104 fils sur la largeur de tricotage) (environ deux mètres).The article according to the invention is obtained by threading the two full knitting bars from a 76 dtex / 24-strand polyester yarn having received a FTF type treatment (fixed false twist). The threads of the rear bar (bar I) are solid colored threads (white), while the threads of the front bar (bar II) intended to form the pile of the knitted fabric are threaded in from six different types of wire, respectively:
hurricane (A),
turquoise (B),
mist (C),
ocher (D),
brown (E),
blue (F),
according to the following sequence:
4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2D, 2C, 4A, 2F, 2C, 4A, 2B, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, 4A, 2E, 2C, i.e. forty-eight wires in a warp ratio (2 times 1104 threads across the knitting width) (about two meters).
Le tricot conforme à l'invention est réalisé en utilisant une armure telle que représentée à la figure annexée, et dont le montage est le suivant:
- barre arrière I: /1.0.1/1.2.1
- barre avant II:
1.0.0/0.1.1/1.0.0/0.1*/5.4.4/4.5.5/5.4.4/4.5*/17.16.16/16.17.17/
17.16/16.17*/21.20.20/20.21.21/21.20.20/20.21*/9.8.8/.8.9.9/.9.8.8./8.9.*/
13.12.12./12.13.13/13.12.12./12.13*
- rear bar I: /1.0.1/1.2.1
- front bar II:
1.0.0 / 0.1.1 / 1.0.0 / 0.1 * / 5.4.4 / 4.5.5 / 5.4.4 / 4.5 * / 17.16.16 / 16.17.17 /
17.16 / 16.17 * / 21.20.20 / 20.21.21 / 21.20.20 / 20.21 * / 9.8.8 / .8.9.9 / .9.8.8. / 8.9. * /
13.12.12./12.13.13/13.12.12./12.13*
Dans l'armure ci-dessus, le signe "*" désigne des maillons de transition dont le profil est adapté pour permettre d'effectuer la grande jetée.In the above armor, the sign "*" designates transition links whose profile is adapted to allow the large pier to be made.
Un tel type d'armure permet d'obtenir un tricot conforme à l'invention qui comporte d'une part, une succession de rangées de mailles (4) séparées les unes des autres par des jetées sous plusieurs aiguilles alternativement de longueur différente, à savoir successivement quatre aiguilles puis douze aiguilles. Il convient de noter que grâce à ce type d'armure, on obtient une répartition dispersée des groupes de mailles d'une manière qui peut être comparée aux décochements existants dans une armure satin d'un tissu chaine et trame, et qui permet d'obtenir, après traitement de finition de l'article (brossage/rasage), des motifs colorés se présentant sous la forme de petits carrés, de couleurs différentes, tel que l'on obtienne un aspect ne semblant pas avoir de rapport apparent et ne comportant aucun effet de barrure, rayure ou diagonale.Such a type of weave makes it possible to obtain a knit according to the invention which comprises on the one hand, a succession of rows of stitches (4) separated from each other by throws under several needles alternately of different length, with to know successively four needles then twelve needles. It should be noted that thanks to this type of weave, a dispersed distribution of the mesh groups is obtained in a manner which can be compared to the existing notches in a satin weave of a warp and weft fabric, and which allows obtain, after finishing treatment of the article (brushing / shaving), colored patterns in the form of small squares, of different colors, such that an appearance does not appear to have any apparent relationship and does not include no lock, stripe or diagonal effect.
Pour réaliser une telle armure, conformément au procédé selon l'invention, le débit des fils de la barre II est modifié par intermittence, alors que celui de la barre I est constant.To produce such an armor, in accordance with the method according to the invention, the flow rate of the wires of the bar II is modified intermittently, while that of the bar I is constant.
Dans une forme de réalisation illustrée, le débit de la barre I est réglé à 2,55 mm par maille, alors que celui de la barre II est réglé pour qu'à chaque réalisation différente de jetées sous, lors de la production de la dernière rangée qui la précède (à savoir rangée référencée 4.5*,20.21* et 12.13*), il passe brusquement à 11,9 mm (zone D2) alors qu'il est à 8,7 mm pour les sept mailles précédentes (zone D1).In an illustrated embodiment, the flow rate of the bar I is adjusted to 2.55 mm per mesh, while that of the bar II is adjusted so that with each different embodiment of piers under, during the production of the last row preceding it (namely row referenced 4.5 *, 20.21 * and 12.13 *), it suddenly drops to 11.9 mm (zone D2) while it is 8.7 mm for the previous seven meshes (zone D1) .
Un tel article velours pouvant être utilisé dans de nombreuses applications est particulièrement adapté pour réaliser la couverture d'un siège d'automobile notamment.Such a velvet article which can be used in numerous applications is particularly suitable for making the cover of a car seat in particular.
Bien entendu, l'invention n'est pas limitée à l'exemple de réalisation décrit précédemment, mais elle en couvre toutes les variantes réalisées dans le même esprit.Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiment described above, but it covers all the variants produced in the same spirit.
Claims (3)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR929205837A FR2690930B1 (en) | 1992-05-07 | 1992-05-07 | VELVET KNIT WITH JACQUARD EFFECTS CARRIED OUT ON THREADED KNITTED FABRIC AND PROCESS FOR OBTAINING IT. |
| FR9205837 | 1992-05-07 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0569304A1 true EP0569304A1 (en) | 1993-11-10 |
| EP0569304B1 EP0569304B1 (en) | 1996-11-13 |
Family
ID=9429767
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP93420172A Expired - Lifetime EP0569304B1 (en) | 1992-05-07 | 1993-04-27 | Knitted velvet with jacquard effects made on a warp knitting machine and method for obtaining it |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0569304B1 (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE145256T1 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE69305914D1 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2690930B1 (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2002000979A1 (en) * | 2000-06-29 | 2002-01-03 | Textiles Et Plastiques Chomarat | Method for producing a tricot/velvet with effects on a warp knitting machine and resulting tricot/velvets |
| US6376635B1 (en) * | 1999-11-15 | 2002-04-23 | Dow Corning Toray Silicon Co., Ltd. | Oligosiloxane and method of preparing same |
| EP1498528A1 (en) * | 2003-07-15 | 2005-01-19 | Ykk Corporation | Knitted surface fastener |
Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1415472A (en) * | 1963-08-26 | 1965-10-22 | Wirkwarenfabrik Gerhard Rosch | Process for manufacturing a strip of interlaced synthetic material threads as well as articles conforming to those obtained |
| US3861175A (en) * | 1973-06-11 | 1975-01-21 | Du Pont | Process for knitting two-bar fabrics from three warp thread sets |
| US4003222A (en) * | 1974-07-23 | 1977-01-18 | Roland Wunner | Warp knitting machine for producing looped cloth |
| US4096610A (en) * | 1977-11-21 | 1978-06-27 | Bassist Rudolf G | Method of knitting a velour fabric |
| EP0126828A1 (en) * | 1983-05-20 | 1984-12-05 | Fab Industries, Inc. | Double faced knit fabric and method |
| EP0228660A1 (en) * | 1985-12-23 | 1987-07-15 | LIBA Maschinenfabrik GmbH | Warp-knitted fabric with a base layer of tricot lappings and franse lappings and with interlaced pile loops |
-
1992
- 1992-05-07 FR FR929205837A patent/FR2690930B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1993
- 1993-04-27 EP EP93420172A patent/EP0569304B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-04-27 AT AT93420172T patent/ATE145256T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-04-27 DE DE69305914T patent/DE69305914D1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1415472A (en) * | 1963-08-26 | 1965-10-22 | Wirkwarenfabrik Gerhard Rosch | Process for manufacturing a strip of interlaced synthetic material threads as well as articles conforming to those obtained |
| US3861175A (en) * | 1973-06-11 | 1975-01-21 | Du Pont | Process for knitting two-bar fabrics from three warp thread sets |
| US4003222A (en) * | 1974-07-23 | 1977-01-18 | Roland Wunner | Warp knitting machine for producing looped cloth |
| US4096610A (en) * | 1977-11-21 | 1978-06-27 | Bassist Rudolf G | Method of knitting a velour fabric |
| EP0126828A1 (en) * | 1983-05-20 | 1984-12-05 | Fab Industries, Inc. | Double faced knit fabric and method |
| EP0228660A1 (en) * | 1985-12-23 | 1987-07-15 | LIBA Maschinenfabrik GmbH | Warp-knitted fabric with a base layer of tricot lappings and franse lappings and with interlaced pile loops |
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6376635B1 (en) * | 1999-11-15 | 2002-04-23 | Dow Corning Toray Silicon Co., Ltd. | Oligosiloxane and method of preparing same |
| WO2002000979A1 (en) * | 2000-06-29 | 2002-01-03 | Textiles Et Plastiques Chomarat | Method for producing a tricot/velvet with effects on a warp knitting machine and resulting tricot/velvets |
| FR2811000A1 (en) * | 2000-06-29 | 2002-01-04 | Textiles Plastiques Chomarat | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A VELVET KNIT WITH EFFECTS MADE ON A FABRIC WITH THREADED MESHES AND VELVET KNITTINGS OBTAINED BY THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THIS PROCESS |
| EP1498528A1 (en) * | 2003-07-15 | 2005-01-19 | Ykk Corporation | Knitted surface fastener |
| CN100374049C (en) * | 2003-07-15 | 2008-03-12 | Ykk株式会社 | Knitted surface fastener |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE69305914D1 (en) | 1996-12-19 |
| ATE145256T1 (en) | 1996-11-15 |
| FR2690930A1 (en) | 1993-11-12 |
| FR2690930B1 (en) | 1994-06-17 |
| EP0569304B1 (en) | 1996-11-13 |
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