EP1294965A1

EP1294965A1 - Method for producing a tricot/velvet with effects on a warp knitting machine and resulting tricot/velvets

Info

Publication number: EP1294965A1
Application number: EP01936561A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Philippe Couvreur; Jean-Christophe Lecouffle
Original assignee: Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
Current assignee: Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
Priority date: 2000-06-29
Filing date: 2001-05-17
Publication date: 2003-03-26
Also published as: FR2811000B1; AU2001262442A1; FR2811000A1; WO2002000979A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a method for producing a velvet/tricot with effects, performed on a warp knitting machine, equipped with loop-forming sinkers comprising only two guide bars; method whereby the pile effects are obtained by the front bar of the machine (bar II), the rear bar (bar I) being used to form the knitted fabric base.

Description

PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A VELVET KNIT WITH EFFECTS REALIZED ON A THREADED KNIT MESH AND VELVET KNITTINGS OBTAINED BY THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THIS PROCESS Technical Field

The present invention relates to an improved process for making a new type of velvet knitting on a loom (chain looms).

Among all the solutions proposed to date for making fabrics of the "velvet" type, in addition to woven fabrics, one of the most widespread consists in using knitting looms known as "with knitted fabrics" comprising at least two rod bars, one allowing the bottom of the knitted fabric to be made, the other (s) making the hair which is obtained during a subsequent finishing treatment (scraping, shaving) thanks to the presence of floats or loops formed on one of the faces of knitting.

The present invention relates to this technical sector of obtaining velvet on knitted looms.

Previous techniques

In addition to the conventional solutions which consist in making work the bar intended to form the hairs according to a weave such that one makes jetties under several needles (three or four), one uses more and more frequently of the looms chain which include a bar additional to plates, on which the wires are deposited in the form of a loop. This plate bar is moved during knitting in a 0.0 / 1.1 weave in synchronism with the knitting, the rear bar forming the bottom which works in a 1.0 / 1.2 weave according to the movement of the plates and the wires of the front bar being deposited on the nose of the plates and therefore forming loops.

Such trades are well known in this technical sector.

It is also possible to adapt conventional chain looms to equip them with such a pass bar forming the loops. This technique gives velvet articles with a very high density of pile, the latter being perfectly linked to the bottom of the knit.

It is particularly suitable for making plain velvet knits by making a knitted fabric having a uniform distribution of loops on its surface which gives, after shaving said loops, the velvet appearance.

To do this, two basic armors are traditionally used.

The first consists in making work the bottom bar (bar I located at the back of the loom) according to a simple knitting weave 1.0-1.2 and the pile bar (s) (bar II and possibly III) working in open mesh chain 1.0 / 0.1.

The other solution also consists of working with at least two bars which are made to work alternately in a succession of simple knit weaves (1.0-1.2) and open chain link (1.0 / 0.1).

It has also been proposed, as is apparent in particular from F -A-2,690,930 in the name of the Applicant, to make velvet knit fabrics with Jacquard effect on such trades.

Such velvet knits are obtained from a knitting weave in which the front bar forming the loops intended to constitute the hairs of the knitted fabric after treatment, is such that it comprises groups of throws on a needle, separated from one another others by alternating piers under several needles of different value.

Whether plain velvets or Jacquard knitwear made previously, they all involve a significant consumption of yarns and are of a relatively high weight per square meter. Statement of the invention

However, it has been found, and this is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible, from a chain loom equipped with plates for forming loops and being able to comprise only two guide bars. , to realize a new type of knitting with velvet effects on its right side, and which not only makes it possible to produce products with a lower weight per square meter as well as an equally low loss of fibers when shaving, while retaining a very good resistance of the hairs in the bottom of the knitted fabric as well as very good resistance to abrasion.

In general, the invention therefore relates to a new improved process which makes it possible to make velvet knitwear on a loom (chain looms), equipped with loops-forming plates and which may comprise only two guide bars , process in which the pile effects are obtained from the front bar of the loom (bar II), the rear bar (bar I) serving to constitute the bottom of the knitted fabric.

The process according to the invention is characterized in that:

• the rear bar (I) forming the bottom of the knitted fabric works in a simple knit weave, the throwing of which under the needles takes place in the same direction as the movement of the loops forming plates;

• the knitting weave of the front bar (II) forming the loops intended to constitute the hairs of the knitting after treatment, is such that it comprises a succession of stitches produced according to a chain weave the flanges of which are arranged around the plates of formation of loops, followed by floats in the warp direction, produced on at least three rows of knitted fabric, floats which extend on the right side and are held pressed against the bottom of said knitted fabric, set back from the loops formed on the plates .

In the process according to the invention, when the loom has only two guide bars, the two bars are threaded full. On the other hand, it is also possible to implement the method according to the invention on looms comprising three guide bars, the rear bar (bar I) always forming the bottom and the two front bars (bars II and III) forming a succession of chains and floats shifted from one bar to the next bar.

In such a case, it may be envisaged either to have solid threaded bars, or to have a wire arrangement in bars (II) and (III), for example a full / empty or two full / two voids, which are complementary hairs or floats.

Furthermore, according to a variant, when it is desired to obtain a flange which is perfectly pressed against the bottom of the knitted fabric, it is possible, in the case where a loom comprising only two guide bars is used, to modify the 'weave of the bristle bar, in particular when it is desired to make a flange of a considerable length, generally greater than four or five meshes, so that this bristle bar forms a mesh in the bottom, this being obtained taking care to move it in the same direction as the bottom.

By proceeding in accordance with the method according to the invention, a new type of velvet knit is obtained which may, compared with previous articles, have an appearance close to solid, but whose weight per square meter is less than a plain conventional, the loss of fibers during shaving is also lower.

Such a possibility of reducing the weight of the articles is explained by the fact that in the bar forming the hairs, the weave is such that there is a succession of meshes and floats, which therefore results in a lower consumption of yarns. since, generally, a flange made near the bottom to connect two consecutive rows requires a length of wire about eight times less than the length necessary to form a loop in these two rows. It is also possible, thanks to the process according to the invention, to obtain articles having effects, for example articles comprising a succession of parallel transverse zones, one zone consisting of a velvet band, and the following zone of a strip formed of rectilinear threads connecting two velvet strips to one another and arranged recessed.

It is also possible to obtain effects comprising a central zone of the velvet type, of square shape, and unshaven, longitudinal and transverse zones, framing this velvet zone.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the exemplary embodiments given below for information, but not limitation, and which are illustrated by the appended figures in which:. FIG. 1 is the graphic representation of the weave of a knitted fabric produced in accordance with the invention;

. Figure 2 is a reproduction of a knitted article according to the invention using the weave of Figure 1;

. FIG. 3 illustrates a weave of a knitted fabric produced in accordance with the invention on a warp loom comprising three guide bars, the bars (II) and (III) making it possible to obtain a pile effect;

. Figure 4 is a reproduction of an article made on the basis of Figure 3 with a threading available a full / empty bars (II) and (III) and; . Figure 5 is a reproduction of an article obtained by the implementation of the armor also illustrated in Figure 3, but with a threading of the guide bars available two full / two empty;

. Figure 6 illustrates an alternative embodiment of a knit according to the invention on a loom which has only two guide bars and in which a long flange is produced. Way of realizing the invention

The concrete examples given below are all carried out on a conventional chain loom of the "COPCENTRA-POL" type from the LIBA company, equipped with two or three guide bars and having a 28 gauge (28 needles in 25.4 mm).

Furthermore, the threads used for the production of the articles are polyester threads, the threads intended to form the bottom (bar I) having a count of 76 dtex, while the threads intended to form the bristles (bar II and possibly bar III ), are wires with a title of 167dtex.

Example 1

A knitting is carried out in accordance with the method according to the invention on a loom comprising two guide bars (B1, B2), these bars being threaded full.

This knitting is carried out according to a weave of the type illustrated in FIG. 1.

The rear bar (Bl) therefore forms the bottom of the knitted fabric and works in a simple knit weave 1.0 / 1.2, the yarns under the needles being carried out in the same direction as the movement of the loops forming plates which are moved in a armor 0.0 / 1.1.

The armor of the front bar (B2) is such that it comprises a succession of meshes produced according to a chain weave 1.0 / 0.1, the flanges of which are arranged around the plates for forming loops, followed by floats in the warp direction 0.0 / 0.0, in the present case made on four rows of knitting, and which therefore extend over the right side of said knitting. .

The flow rate of the wires of the bar (I) is adjusted to 1210 mm by Rack, while that of the wires of the bar (II) is adjusted to 1440 mm by Rack and varies periodically between the areas of loop formation and that of formation floats.

For the record, the Rack is the unit used for the chain or Rachel looms to designate the length of thread necessary for the formation of 480 rows of stitches in knitting. By proceeding in this way, one obtains, on leaving the loom, a knitted fabric as illustrated in FIG. 2, which weighs 180 g / m2 and which, after shaving the loops, comprises alternating zones (10,11 ), the zones (10) being constituted by the hairs formed by the threads of the shaved loops, while the zones (11) are, for their part, constituted by parallel threads, arranged longitudinally and pressed firmly against the bottom of the knitted fabric.

In the hypothesis where it is desired to obtain zones comprising floats of greater length, it is possible to proceed in a manner as illustrated in FIG. 6, that is to say by making a flange on the bar (II) so that this bar forms a mesh in the bottom, this being obtained by moving said bar (II) in the same direction as the bottom formed by the bar (I).

Example 2

In this example, the method according to the invention is implemented on a loom comprising three guide bars and the armor of which are illustrated in FIG. 3.

The bar (I) forms the bottom of the knitting by working in a 1.0 / 1.2 weave and the bars (II) and (III) form a succession of chain links 1.0 / 0.1 separated from each other by floats offset from a bar to the next.

In a first embodiment, the bar (I) is threaded full and the bars (II) and (III) are threaded according to a full / empty rhythm.

The flow rate of the wires of the bar (I) is del210 mm per Rack and that of the bars (II) and (III) is 1440 mm per Rack and, as in Example 1, varies periodically between the loop formation zones and that of float formation.

In this embodiment, a knitted fabric is obtained having a structure of the type shown in FIG. 4 and which is close to a plain shaved loop knitted fabric. This knit weighs 180 g / m2. Still with the same weave illustrated in FIG. 3, but by threading the bars (II) and (III) at a rate of two full / two voids which therefore make up areas forming loops and areas of float, we obtain an article of type shown in Figure 5 having velvet areas framed both longitudinally and transversely by floats pressed against the bottom of the knitted fabric.

Such articles produced in accordance with the invention can be used in numerous applications, in particular for seat coverings, since they have very good abrasion resistance and very good resistance to hair while being of lower weight. to articles produced in a conventional manner.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, but it covers all the variants produced in the same spirit.

Claims

1 / Method for the production of a velvet effect knitted fabric, made on a loom, knitted, equipped with loop forming plates and possibly comprising only two guide bars, method in which the pile effects are obtained from from the front bar of the loom (bar II), the rear bar

(bar I) used to form the bottom of the knitted fabric, characterized in that:

• the knitting weave of the front bar (II) forming the loops intended to constitute the hairs of the knitting after treatment, is such that it comprises a succession of stitches produced according to a chain weave the flanges of which are arranged around the plates of formation of loops, followed by floats in the warp direction, produced on at least three rows of knitting, extend over the right side of the latter while being pressed against the bottom of the knitting, and this set back with respect to the loops formed on the turntables.

2 / A method according to claim 1, characterized in that when it has only two guide bars, the two bars are threaded full.

3 / A method according to claim 1, characterized in that it is implemented on a loom comprising three guide bars, the rear bar (bar I) forming the bottom and the two front bars (bars II and III) form a succession of chains and floats shifted from one bar to the next.

4 / A method according to claim 3, characterized in that the guide bars (II) and (III) are either threaded full, or according to a wire arrangement, for example a one full / one empty or two full / two empty provision .

5 / Velvet knit effect obtained by the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 to 4.